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USA211:Layout 1 4.3.2011 16:37 Page 1
WATCH AFICIONADO
Special Web & iPad Edition
USA & CANADA VOL.47 N°02 APRIL/MAY 2011
Brought to you
direct from the
heart of the Swiss
2011 BASELWORLD
watchmaking industry THE GREAT NORMALIZATION
Free and direct iPad access via www.europastar.com
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www.europastar.com EUROPA STAR WEB & iPad SPECIAL
GRAND COMPLICATION REF. 5208 BY Patek Philippe
950 platinum, 44 mm timepiece equipped with Patek
An ode to paper
Philippe’s Calibre R CH 27 PS QI with 48-hour power reserve. EDITORIAL
Self-winding mechanical movement, minute repeater and
subsidiary seconds; chronograph with column wheel,
chronograph hand, 60-minute and 12-hour counters; R Pierre M. Maillard which is a nice word for frequently nothing
instantaneous perpetual calendar; day, date, month, and Editor-in-Chief more than taking information in with one
leap-year cycle in apertures, day/night indicator and moon Europa Star
hand and then relaying it with the other by
phases. Patek Philippe Seal. www.patek.com
placing it online as quickly as possible. This
continuous flux of often trivial information
Just posted …
feeds upon itself, we might say, using its own
EDITORIAL An ode to paper
I was just looking at my email inbox and I speed of propagation. The speed of the trans-
COVER STORY What is hiding in Patek Philippe’s ‘Reference 5208P’?
noticed that there were still 656 non-opened mission has thus become a ‘quality’ nearly
RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE The great normalization
messages, without even counting the 324 more important than the validity of the infor-
CHANEL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT Audacity and Expertise
that I designated with a small red flag to sig- mation itself. As long as we learn it immedi-
nify their importance at the same time that I ately, the rest has hardly any importance. And,
Latest updates ... postponed answering them. It has become as soon as it is seen, relayed and propagated,
BASEL PREVIEW Century – elegant, resistant and transparent
so easy today to send an image, a press this message is then forgotten, relegated to
MARKETS Titoni, China from the inside
release, a pdf—basically anything you want, the bottom of the virtual archives located
CASE STUDY Rodolphe – What’s in a name?
to anyone you want—that why should we somewhere in Google’s vast digital storeroom.
POST CARD Postcard from Glashütte
deny ourselves doing it? Watchmakers hardly The current fantasy of the geolocalization by
RETAILER PROFILE Simonetta Orsini – Time in Buenos Aires
LAKIN@LARGE Comeuppance time down south deny themselves this type of communication. smartphones and the never-before-seen sales
You have changed the colour of a dial? That potential that it brings only increase this
Coming soon to Europastar.com deserves a press release and a few photos. already obvious saturation. You will no longer
And, since the press release must contain at be able to pass in front of a store, a billboard,
IN MOVEMENT Harry Winston, new impulsions in watchmaking • Urwerk - The pio-
least a few lines, you jot down a few lovely or change sidewalks without your smart-
neering researchers of the UR-110 • Christophe Claret launches his
brand with a gaming spirit • Watchmaking 2.0 by Hautlence • paragraphs about the colour chocolate, for phone filling up with targeted messages that
Antoine Preziuso, ‘Operation Power’ • Swatch watch example. You are now in a store not far from are ‘personally’ intended just for you and that
STRATEGIES TAG Heuer - The first integrated chronograph with 1/100th of a second Park Avenue, or from the Bahnhofstrasse, or compete for your attention. It is becoming a
• The belle coherence of Zenith • The very innovative Calibre Royal from Trifouillis-les-Oies? It doesn’t really form of urban nightmare.
by Pequignet is here! • The two pillars of Corum • Louis Vuitton • matter where, but you must let the entire Secondly, the journalist can try to sort through
Raymond Weil - Music, Maestro! • Maurice Lacroix, Seconds squared planet know about it, and then ask everyone this confused mass of information and then
GALLERY Tourbillons and complications • The best of the classics • A whirl of if they want to become your friend. resend only what makes sense, having analy-
women’s watchmaking • Sport, sports and more sports • The best A quick visit to your Facebook page is neces- zed and compared it, and put it into perspec-
design watches
sary—a matter of sticking a couple of notices tive. In this option, the paper medium remains
ON STAGE The rising strength of Armin Strom • Century and the art of sapphire
on the wall. A body-builder ‘ambassador’ or a supreme for many reasons, but also (or even
• Armand Nicolet focusing for 2011 • Perrelet previews moonbeams
lovely lady ‘ambassador’ has just made a visit most importantly) for one very simple reason:
and tourbillons • Bell & Ross’s new vintage time ally • Ventura is
to your boutique? Click immediately on to print information on a piece of paper, and
back—and alive, thank you! • Jean-Mairet & Gillman’s Hora Mundi •
Carl F. Bucherer adds to the Patravi EvoTec • Hanhart stays true to its youTube and post your video online. Or better then distribute this ‘paper’ takes a long time
heritage and values • Victorinox Swiss Army goes clean and classic • yet, click on Twitter and tweet about the visit (at least relative to the instantaneousness of
New looks and new boutiques for Bedat & Co • Philip Stein is feeling as it happens. Each time, you can tweet 149 the electronic medium). It must pass through
good • Ernest Borel – The dancing couple expands its collection • characters to say, “… her limousine has not various necessary steps (be written, laid out on
Haurex - Italian design, Italian time yet arrived but already three people are wait- the page, printed, bound, loaded on a truck
DESIGN Mondaine Simply Elegant, Giant and Savonette • Obaku Denmark ing” or “his limousine is arriving but a truck and, in the case of Europa Star, delivered by
launches an ultra slim sports watch • IceLink hits the slopes just parked in front of the store” or “he is just post to the four corners of the globe). As a
BEHIND THE SCENES The art inside the movement getting out of the limousine… ah no, it is not result, it is relatively costly. You then must pay
WORLDWATCHWEB® WorldWatchReport: Seven years of analyzing the watch industry and
him,” and so on, and so on. double attention to what you put on paper.
its presence on the Internet
What should we do with this avalanche of You sort it, examine it and evaluate it.
LAKIN@LARGE Earthquakes, promiscuity and a parrot
‘information’ if we can still even call this pro- ‘Paper’ is therefore far from being dead. On
ADVERTISERS’ SPOTLIGHTS Orient Watch – The fusion of precision and beauty
fusion of insignificance ‘information’? Well, the contrary, it is becoming more and more of
there are two trains of thought about this. a luxury product that must live up to its prom-
Are you interested in any of the above articles?
Yes, then click on www.europastar.com ! First, the journalist can become a ‘passer’, ises, a little like an Haute Horlogerie timepiece.
Type article’s title in SEARCH box
USA211:Layout 1 4.3.2011 16:40 Page 5
Introducing the very first automatic version of
the CORUM baguette movement.
This linear-winding caliber powers the new
Golden Bridge watch.
www.corum.ch
FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CALL 949-788-6200
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EUROPA STAR WEB & iPad SPECIAL – COVER STORY
WHAT IS HIDING IN
PATEK PHILIPPE’S ‘REFERENCE 5208P’?
A
t first glance, who would
suspect, under the clear face
of the ‘Reference 5208P’, the
presence of an exceptional Grand Compli-
cation, the second in the class of Grand
Complications that make up the ‘current’
Patek Philippe offer, right after its famous
Sky Moon Tourbillon?
The simplicity of the appearance, the
purity of the lines, and the absolute read-
ability of this exceptional timepiece is, we
might say, a form of ultimate politeness,
of ultimate refinement. When so many
other timekeepers conspicuously exhibit
their own complications, the Patek Philippe
Triple Complication Reference 5208P—
with an air of refinement, reserve and admired at the back of the watch with its with the idea of adding a large wheel, at
restraint—seems almost modest by com- micro-rotor and its chime regulator pro- the centre, geared by a pinion to the
parison. In its own way, it is the quintes- tected under a gold Calatrava cross. The minute wheel, which would interrupt any
sence of the Patek Philippe ‘style’, which makers of the Geneva brand. As can easily 'coupling' of this base calibre with a single direct link between the hour hand and the
can be described as art, artisanal, an be imagined, coupling the minute repeater, pushbutton column-wheel chronograph chime of the minute repeater, thus requir-
ethic, and an innovative technology that chronograph and perpetual calendar posed serious questions about the energy ing the aforementioned detour.
values distinction, usage and reliability together is not merely a simple matter of transmission of the chronograph. The engin-
above all else. And yet… stacking one on top of the other. One of eers at Patek Philippe therefore came up Drawing on
Under the nearly barren dial hides a Calibre the major difficulties of this long elabora- the chronographic repertoire
that combines an automatic minute tion resided in the necessity of creating In addition, the chronograph had to be the
repeater movement, single pushbutton veritable mechanical deviations, perfectly thinnest possible (2.4mm) in order to avoid
chronograph, perpetual calendar in instan- controlled, between the automatic move- increasing the total thickness of the calibre
taneous windows and lunar phases. In ment base, the chronograph, the hour dis- in a significant manner, and subsequently
other words, this watch brings together play and the chime system. Thus, it meant the watch. Delving into their very rich reper-
three major complications in a move- placing the chronograph mechanism toire of chronographic movements, the
ment measuring 32mm in diameter and between the movement base and the Geneva watchmakers drew inspiration from
10.35mm in height, with 701 component instantaneous-display calendar module. several of their earlier realizations, most
parts. Its name: the Calibre R CH 27 PS QI. As a direct connection between the hour notably the calibre CHR 27-525 PS, the
In addition, this calibre beats to the rhythm hand and the chime of the minute repeater flattest split-seconds chronograph move-
of an escapement and balance spring was impossible, it was then necessary to ment in the world that featured a column-
made of Silinvar®, a derivative of silicon: design detour systems in order to engage wheel control and vertical clutch.
a first in the family of Patek Philippe’s the hour and the chronograph while per- They borrowed the friction drive system of
Grand Complications. fectly synchronizing the visual indications the minute and hour counters that, while
and the hour chime. The development of ensuring the refinement of the ensemble,
Much more than just ‘stacking’ this system resulted in several patents. allowed for the compensation of the differ-
The design, construction, development, The new Calibre R CH 27 PS QI is made up ences in torque between the start and stop
manufacture, decoration and certification of three ‘layers’, or tiers, we might say. The modes of the chronograph. This provided
of such a movement posed a great many first layer contains the base movement, an for perfectly regular amplitude of the bal-
challenges to the engineers and watch- automatic with minute repeater that can be ance. The same calibre also inspired the
–7–
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EUROPA STAR WEB & iPad SPECIAL – COVER STORY
the chronograph and, at this level, is sent
to the centre where it drives the hour and
minute hands, the instantaneous displays
of the calendar, the lunar phases, and a dis-
creet day/night indicator.
The instantaneousness and synchroniza-
tion of the calendar aperture displays are
assured by a large lever, composed of 15
parts, that intervenes when, for example,
at midnight all the displays must jump When we ask this question to the watch-
together. In addition, two jumper springs makers responsible for the watch’s develop-
constantly equalize the energy transmit- ment, they are categorical in their response.
ted to each change of indication so that it Here, the first advantage is in the chrono-
is neither too strong nor too weak. This graph’s performance and reliability. The
avoids partial indications or problems escapement and balance spring made in
from too much energy. When all is said this silicon-derived material offer added
and done, this ingenious arrangement of energy efficiency (about 30 per cent more)
the calendar in windows leaves a large which goes directly to the chronograph.
space for perfectly displaying the chrono- Moreover, the same watchmakers empha-
graphic minutes and hours. size the remarkable consistency of opera-
The third complication is the minute repeater. tion obtained by these Silinvar® compo-
As we explained above, the minute repeater nents as well as their superior durability. For
mechanism itself is placed at the base of a chronograph, which consumes a lot of
the movement. It is the fruit of many years energy, whether in the stop or start mode
of research conducted by Patek Philippe because of friction, this represents a con-
and its watchmakers in this domain— siderable advantage.
not less than nine references of minute
repeaters are in the brand’s current collec- An uncluttered face
tion. It represents a quest for sound, for the In seeing the Patek Philippe Triple Compli-
acoustic signature of each piece that cation Reference 5208P for the first time,
required research into the best metal alloys you would not think that twelve displays
as well as optimization of the form of the share its charcoal-coloured solid gold sun-
gongs and how they are fixed in place. This burst dial since the dial is so pure, almost
does not even go into the adjustment of the bare. The three calendar apertures—
racks, snails and other hammers that come framed by polished white gold—are dis-
together to produce the most crystalline played in a circular arc in the upper part of
toothing profile of the chronograph’s gears, Instantaneousness sound possible—a sound whose quality the dial, thus leaving the necessary space
specially designed to reduce friction and and synchronization is, for each piece, personally approved for the two auxiliary dials of the chrono-
optimize power transmission. Passing from the chronographic level to by Thierry Stern and Philippe Stern, the graph and the small seconds at 6 o’clock,
Yet, it was another calibre in the Patek the instantaneous perpetual calendar President and Honorary President of the surmounted by an inversed window show-
Philippe repertoire, the manual-winding with aperture displays level, meant mak- Geneva company. ing the lunar phases. Two additional small
CH 29-535 PS, that provided the patented ing major modifications to the construc- apertures are hidden at the base of the
hammers for the self-regulating return to tion and architecture of the movement, as Advantages of silicon auxiliary dials of the chronograph, with the
zero, thus ensuring the accuracy of their already mentioned. In the restricted space Looking at the calibre through the sap- leap years between 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock,
positioning to the nearest hundredth of a of the chronograph, it was necessary to phire caseback of the timepiece, an experi- and the day/night indication between 7
millimetre. At 2 o’clock, a single pushbut- integrate a detour system for the minutes enced eye can catch a glimpse of the tech- o’clock and 8 o’clock. Beneath this obvious
ton activates the start, stop and return to because the cannon-pinion for the min- nological aspect of this Triple Complication readability and great elegance is hidden a
zero of the seconds and the fractions of utes could not traverse the mobile of the in the form of its Pulsomax® escapement complex dial, meticulously hollowed out so
seconds, using a central seconds hand, and chronograph. The rotational movement of and its Spiromax® balance, both made that it can be placed at the lowest possible
the hours and minutes by counters placed the cannon-pinion of the minutes is there- in Silinvar®. But why has Patek Philippe position against the movement, thus pre-
at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, respectively. fore deviated laterally to the upper level of placed so much effort on this technology? serving the thinness of the piece.
–8–
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EUROPA STAR WEB & iPad SPECIAL – COVER STORY
The dial is also very demanding from a vates the chronograph. Four discreet correc- ingly modern appearance. In passing, we cation is presented in a rotating winder
technical point of view. The large aper- tors are spaced out on the sides of the case: might mention that the polishing of both case that ensures the continuous good
tures and the large typography of the day, month, lunar phases and date. At 6 the outside and inside of the platinum operation of the piece.
displays in a small space require a great o’clock, a small diamond, as is usual, sig- openwork horns requires special skill. It is also endowed with the Patek Philippe
deal of precision in the placement of the nals that the case is made in 950 platinum. Seal, certifying the design and technology of
apertures and the secondary dials. For The 42-mm round case, in three parts (base, Mounted on a brilliant hand-stitched choco- the piece, and is only delivered after a bat-
the calendar discs that jump instantly middle case, and bezel), has a height of late brown square-scaled alligator strap tery of tests and checks that have no com-
with extreme accuracy, the least discrep- 15.70mm. While it seems so classically el- with a platinum fold-over clasp, the Patek parison in timekeeping. The Patek Philippe
ancy cannot be tolerated. egant when seen from the top, it reserves a Philippe Triple Complication is delivered Triple Complication Reference 5208P has
surprise when viewed from the side. with two interchangeable case backs: a now entered into the Patek Philippe collec-
A surprising profile The case is placed between and attached sapphire crystal and a solid platinum back tion, where it occupies a place of honour.
Only the small slide on the left side of the to two clamps. Thanks to this particular that can be engraved with any type of The only problem is that the timepiece is
case indicates that a minute repeater is architecture, the horns can have an entirely personalization desired by the owner. Like very rare. In spite of all the efforts of the
present on the watch. At 2 o’clock, above openwork design, thus streamlining the all the grand complications of the Geneva Geneva manufacture, it can only be de-
the crown, is a single pushbutton that acti- lines of the case and giving it a surpris- brand, the Patek Philippe Triple Compli- livered in tiny quantities.
–9–
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EUROPA STAR WEB & iPad SPECIAL
THE GREAT NORMALIZATION
been just a year-long blip in the history of a ‘subprime’ mess one day?), and indirectly
W
e are all small seconds The extent to which this is happening is
hands ticking on the sur- time. But, what exactly has happened dur- illustrated, as we have mentioned else- by creating the widest possible distribution
face of time before disap- ing this ‘blip’? where in this issue (see the article on networks. A strategy of getting your foot
pearing and ceding the place to another Antoine Preziuso) through the words of an in the door.
small hand that will travel its own way A reflection of the world as it is independent watchmaker who has prac-
around the dial, before it too disappears. We have often said that watchmaking can ticed his profession for more than 20 Chinese sell-in
To capture this beating of time, to arrange very well be seen as a rather good reflec- years: “The big brands are going to crush China is obviously the best example of the
its fleeting nature and give it form— tion of the larger social, economic and us; we are all going to die.” battle to be first. Everywhere we hear,
A number of reasons has led to this situa- without formal proof, that the incredible
tion. In no particular order, there are indus- numbers seen in this market (up 57 per cent
Watchmakers are often trial reasons, distribution policies, and
expansion strategies that are major con-
this year) are mainly due to the dynamic
sell-in. The drawers and the stockrooms
a surprisingly resilient breed. tributing factors. On an industrial level,
the Swatch Group’s threat to stop delivery
are filling up, but the products that are
selling are not always those that make the
of its ETA tractor calibres has intensified front page.
efforts by its competitors to industrialize The advantage the Swatch Group has in
sometimes in glory—is the wonderful political evolutions in the world. Watches their operations. These considerable efforts the Chinese market is glaring. This is largely
profession of the watchmaker. This is also owe their forms, colours and trends to are arriving at maturity today and their due to the industrial nature of this ‘watch
part of the fascination that watches have society. In an economic sense, watches heavy investments must become prof- and technical conglomerate’, which gave it
had and will continue to have. As witness are closely related to the rules of finance, itable (on this subject, as an example, see a head start, allowing it to prepare the
to this, economic crises come and go; the the stock market, globalization, exchange Cartier’s new ‘just in time’ installations, in ground long before the arrival of the others.
markets get locked up one after the other; rates, costs of labour and raw materials. In Europa Star 4.10). The necessary prof- As an anecdote, I recall personally having
independent retailers become increasingly terms of political changes, the watch- itability of the industrial tool adds to the seen, in 2004 on Tiananmen Square in
rare; the large brands get larger and the maker, while he is certainly sometimes an commercial and marketing aggressive- Beijing, a place totally devoid of any public-
small ones get smaller. Yet, nothing dis- artist, is above all a businessman, and ness of the groups, which are in a hurry to ity, between the entrance to the Forbidden
courages people from choosing this voca- must submit to the powers that be and conquer the largest market share possible City and Mao’s Mausoleum, a large Omega
tion. How many new brands were created demonstrate his credentials. (Being a dis-
in 2010, following all those that came into tributor of fine Swiss watches in Tunisia,
being in 2009 when they planned their Egypt, or Bahrain today is not an easy
business with the idea that the clear sky task since the prestige watch has become The necessary profitability of
was ‘the only limit’? Then, they found them- one of the strongest and most visible sym-
selves confronting the clouds and the rain
as soon as their first products were to
bols of the ruling class). So what does this
timekeeping reflection tell us?
the industrial tool adds to
venture outside.
We don’t have an exact count of their num- Widening the gap
the commercial and marketing
ber, but one thing is sure: watchmakers are
often a surprisingly resilient breed. In spite
The first thing we observe, and the most
important because it conditions all the
aggressiveness of the groups.
of the tremors in the financial community, others, is that the gap is widening. Just
followed by those in the economy and then like in the ‘real’ world, the gap between
society, the brands that closed their doors the richest and the most powerful—the and to lock up the points of sale that they clock. Placed on the steps of the National
are really not that many. Making up for Swatch Group, Richemont, LVMH, plus the have won in this fierce battle. Museum, it was counting down the hours
lost time, timekeeping is vigorously finding most established and institutional such as As is also the case for their industrial ver- to the future Olympic Games. Thousands of
its growth again with CHF 16.15 billion in Rolex, Patek Philippe and a few large inde- ticalization, the groups are now investing Chinese stood in line day after day to take
exports in 2010, almost that of the record pendents, including Chopard, Breitling massively to conquer these markets, directly photos of themselves beside the clock, very
year in 2008, which reached CHF 17 billion. and Raymond Weil—and all the rest, all through a sometimes frantic policy of open- visibly signed Omega. Today, there must be
The economic slump seems thus to have the other brands, is constantly widening. ing their own boutiques (will this become (continued on page 12)
– 10 –USA211:Layout 1 4.3.2011 16:42 Page 11
Borel Chrono Collection
Model GS8600D-4622BK
Stainless Steel Case
Water resistant to 50 meters
Rhodium plated movement
Dubois-Dépraz 2021 on 2892-A2
Geneva waves, Blue screws
Bezel set with 60 diamonds
1/5’’, 30’ and 12 hours counter function
Anti-reflection front Sapphire glass
See through back
Alligator leather bracelet
ERNEST BOREL S.A., C.P. 234, Rue des Perrières 8, CH-2340 Le Noirmont, Switzerland
Tel : +41-(0)32-926 17 26 / Fax : +41-(0)32-926 17 29 / www.ernestborel.ch / info@ernestborel.ch
Please visit us during Baselworld 2011 24-31 March Hall of Emotions 5.1 Booth E-11USA211:Layout 1 4.3.2011 16:42 Page 12
EUROPA STAR WEB & iPad SPECIAL
(continued) ultra-niche mechanical brands, but today capital have also played a role, weakening long, costly, difficult to make reliable, and
tens, if not hundreds of millions of photos we find them in the mainstream. the profession even more. This profession hard to homologate, in favour of a time-
with the Omega logo in Chinese homes. From a design point of view, the large itself was blinded during a time by the tri- keeping that is simpler to produce, has less
Another watchmaker, a medium-sized inde- brands, always in search of the next buzz, umphant watch market, before harshly production problems, demands fewer opera-
pendent and long established in China pre- have learned to seize the ideas coming from realizing how dependent they are on sud- tions and allows for a greater rationaliza-
dicted that, while today there is still place the independents, which are forced on den shifts in the marketplace. While a tion. Having said that, however, to be fully
for everyone in China, in a few years, the innovation to survive. The large brands then watchmaker can always sell his stock, successful with an ultra-thin, three-hands
Swatch Group will have the lion’s share. Its develop these ideas to their fullest poten- reduce his staff, outsource the work, or piece is still an art, an art that is not mas-
penetration is not to be credited solely with tial. We saw this happen a good decade turn to other suppliers, a sub-contractor tered so easily, and one that demands its
does not have these choices. There are own legitimacy (in this regard, see our wrap-
exceptions, of course, as is the case of up story on the SIHH in Europa Star 1.11).
As the large groups Christophe Claret, who is not afraid to
publically admit a 33 per cent decline in
Everything seems to show that the crisis,
now followed by a quasi-general with-
expand their activities, sales in 2010, and who created his own
watch brand to compensate for cancelled
drawal into a minimalist and neo-classic
style or at least a more measured style, has
third-party orders (see our article in this marginalized the secondary players even
no niche is safe anymore. issue on Christophe Claret). But, obviously,
not everyone has the ability to do this.
more while strengthening the main players.
A fog of short-lived insects
the group’s industrial base, but is also due ago when the large brands understood the Neo-classic effects In parallel, another phenomenon has com-
to the diversity of the offer. The group is the commercial potential in products with a rig- There has been so much talk of the great plicated matters. A little more than a year
only one to completely cover the market in orous design intended for a large public. neo-classic wave, mostly in terms of style, ago—on January 27, 2010, which already
a consistent manner, from the low-end to This basically drained the lifeblood from that we might see, in this, only a ‘crisis seems so long ago—Apple introduced
the very high end. some independents that worked passion- design’. But what does it mean in eco- the iPad. Remember this date, not so much
ately, but with difficulty, in this sector. Today, nomic terms? In other words, what are for the iPad itself but as a symbolic date.
Seizing the concepts history is repeating itself in the area of the consequences of this ‘two hands and This did not represent the death of paper,
Among the other reasons that the large research into highly complex mechanical small seconds’ trend on the industrial as we have so often heard, but rather it
groups continue to grow while the smaller movements with acrobatic functions or fabric, on sub-contracting, on the future brought about an infinite multiplication of
ones are confined to smaller and smaller prowess in displays (even here, however, of the brands? According to Christophe ‘papers’! The instantaneous access to an
niches, there is one that plays a far from the independents have a large lead, see for Claret, his personal 33 per cent decline in incessant flow of globalized and socialized
negligible role. Gradually, the groups and example Urwerk, Hautlence or Jouvenot). sales was due primarily to the abrupt halt information has opened new avenues for
some of the largest brands began moving Thus, we now find concept watches in the in innovative mechanical projects that he even the modest of brands, whose mes-
into new territories—particular niches collections of the large groups, which earlier
that were up to now occupied by small were reserved to the most innovative niche
independent brands, often those centred
on a ‘master watchmaker’ or a singular
brands. As the large groups expand their
activities, no niche is safe anymore.
What are the consequences
type of timekeeping. Already at the cen-
tre of the page, the large groups have Weakened sub-contractors of this ‘two hands and
extended horizontally, into the margins, During last year, even more than the inde-
operating their own ‘research labora- pendent brands, the sub-contractors have small seconds’ trend on
tories’ if we might use the term, which pro- felt weakened. Often pushed to invest
gressively absorb the ideas and models of
the independents.
heavily in order to meet a constantly increas-
ing demand, forced by the competition to
the industrial fabric?
In this regard, the tourbillon vogue, inex- obtain the latest cutting-edge equipment,
tinguishable as it seems to be, is particu- to push mechanical research to the limit, was creating for large brands. The recent sages can now slide into a thousand
larly representative. Each brand seems to to delve into research on materials and collapse of the Artisans Horlogers—very cracks, rebound, and scatter around the
absolutely need an extravagant tourbillon production methods, the sub-contractors advanced constructors working in the globe like never before. Yet, this also runs
in its collections—a double or triple ro- were hit hard by the sudden decline—or ‘new’ watchmaking—seems to confirm the risk of being annihilated by the vast
tation, off-centred, suspended, placed at even outright cancellation—of their orders. this unfortunate trend. This neo-classic fog of information—a fog that is made
the end of a hand, orbital, etc. Until recently, The acquisitions, integrations, buyouts wave therefore affects—like the transfer up of billions of short-lived and constantly
these ‘experiences’ were reserved for the and controlling interests in a company’s of torque—research programs that are (continued on page 14)
– 12 –
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MASTERING
T
E
www.hanhart.com
PRIMUS RACER
Racer_EuropaSt_229x267_US.indd 1 02.03.11KW9 11:35USA211:Layout 1 4.3.2011 16:43 Page 14
FOR THE GLOBAL WATCH INDUSTRY EUROPA STAR WEB & iPad SPECIAL
EUROPA STAR (continued) Access to the markets The great normalization
LAUNCH ON IPAD moving insects (see our editorial in this But, as ‘one tree doesn’t make a forest’, From a historical point of view, everything
issue). In this saturated electronic ‘cloud’, one Laurent Ferrier does not necessarily leads us to believe that watchmaking has
Europa Star’s new application for very few things rise to the surface. It is help all the small Davids. Why? The essen- now entered into one of these periods
iPad is a unique* free communica- often an illusion to believe that access to tial element remains access to the market, that we can call ‘normalization’. Most of
tion media for all the publication’s communication—not ever having been and therefore to the final customer. In the world’s watch business is controlled
friends, the watch community, easy—is now easier. Succeeding in cor- 2010, distribution was the most difficult by a handful of global players. The cre-
their followers and aficionados. rectly getting a message out takes a lot of domain. We are living, in fact, a paradox. ative effervescence that we saw during
Just click on www.europastar.com consistent and constant efforts—unfail- On one hand, never has the offer been so the years preceding the economic crisis of
in the browser of your iPad. ing means and energy (we might mention, large and so diversified, allowing the con- 2008 to 2009 has calmed quite a bit. The
This new application will also be for example, Jean-Claude Biver and Max sumer to literally choose just about any- heart is no longer really in it, unless it is
available for all tablet users regard- Büsser, two unrivalled communicators, thing and everything, yet, on the other the wallet that is no longer open. Too
less of the platform in use. whose practices and products are quite hand, never has it been so difficult for so much excess kills the excess. Along with
Europa Star is proud to add this new different, but whose promotional energies many small and medium-sized brands to the economic normalization comes an
tool to its media network, which are quite comparable). ‘get their watches in the doors’. aesthetic standardization. But this does
currently includes eight magazines: Everywhere, the doors are slammed shut not take into account the natural human
Europe, International, USA & Canada, Sometimes, a miracle happens and the fear begins to mount. As proof, it vitality, we might say. And, we must never
China, Latin America and Spain, Sometimes, however, a ‘miracle’ happens. is always anonymously that ‘ostracized’ forget that the improbable of today can
Ukraine and French Première editions. This year, it is called Laurent Ferrier. Coming
For more information about our media out of ‘nowhere’ (which is not correct since
options, have a look on ABOUT US on
your iPad!
he acquired an extraordinary watchmak-
ing expertise, notably at Patek Philippe), Heroes are always chosen
Europa Star continues its role as a this man, at retirement age, surprised the
pioneer of the watch media industry: entire watch community with his ultra-clas- amongst the little guys
it was one of the first watch publica- sic timepiece, realized with highly orthodox
tions to go online back in 1998 and decorative mastery pushed to a level rarely
continues to be at the forefront of seen. Suddenly, everyone was infatuated watchmakers dare say anything—with become the reality of tomorrow (the polit-
media technology. with his watchmaking that was going very rare exceptions that are generally ical changes in North Africa have recently
The current application is simultane- against the grain, appearing on the eve of not the most representative. It is in the demonstrated this).
ously available in English, Spanish, the great neo-classic turning point. The anonymity of the back office where pres-
Chinese, French and Russian. prize for men’s watches that he received sures rise: pressures to sideline the com- The paradoxical luck of the quality watch
We hope you enjoy this new applica- from the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie in Geneva petition, to fill the drawers by holding back industry is its relative slowness. Whether
tion and feel free to send us your in November bears witness to this appre- access to the markets, and even political we like it or not, developing a new prod-
comments and suggestions at: ciation. (In passing, at BaselWorld last pressures, as we can see in China. In this, uct requires a lot of time—and there are
contact@europastar.com. year, his small stand was next to Snyper watchmaking is not an exception. Every- many who have been burned because
and its intergalactic girls in miniskirts— where, in all activities, direct access to the they forgot this essential fact. This rela-
which represented the abyss between consumer or to the public is becoming tively long lead time also allows the emer-
these two extremes of timekeeping). very rare, which helps the oligopolies con- gence of new propositions and makes the
From an economic standpoint, the Laurent trol most of the distribution channels. landscape—this is the paradox—more
Ferrier brand has strictly no impact on the Independent retailers—the independent lively and more mobile than if pure speed
watch business. Symbolically, however, it is cinemas, for example, are facing the same was the only factor. New communications
quite important. Like all revolutions, the thing—are thus caught between the most tools, even if they generate many illusions
neo-classic ‘revolution’ needed a hero. powerful devils of the sell-in and the deep as we mentioned earlier, can also help
And as we know, heroes are always chosen blue sea of the same name boutiques the promote amazing breakthroughs. As we
amongst the little guys, the eternal Davids large brands open in their areas. The pro- said in the beginning of the article, “We
against a fearful Goliath (in fact, David fession has been weakened, and puts the are all small seconds hands ticking on the
was a myth invented by Goliath to better survival of the small brand that it repre- surface of time,” and fortunately, we do
deceive his world). sents in danger. not always know what really awaits us.
Happy reading, surfing and swiping ! www.europastar.com is brought to you by
Your Europa Star team. Europa Star HBM SA, 25 route des Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva Switzerland
*Includes over 10,000 For full information on Europa Star click on www.europastar.com ABOUT US and CONTACT US
watch information itemsUSA211:Layout 1 4.3.2011 16:43 Page 15 Skagen Americas + 1.800.791.6784 · T + 1.775.850.5500 · F + 1.775.850.5530 · E sales@skagendesigns.com Watches include a Limited Lifetime Warranty. Visit www.skagen.com for more information Featured watch is the 233XXLSLN
USA211:Layout 1 4.3.2011 16:43 Page 16
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