The 2017 Ethical Fashion Report - THE TRUTH BEHIND THE BARCODE - Analysis & Policy ...
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
The 2017 Ethical Fashion Report THE TRUTH BEHIND THE BARCODE
THE 2017 ETHICAL FASHION REPORT
THE TRUTH BEHIND THE BARCODE
Date: 19th April 2017
Authors: Gershon Nimbalker, Jasmin Mawson, Hsu-Ann Lee, Claire Cremen
Behind the Barcode is a project of Baptist World Aid Australia
www.behindthebarcode.org.au
Report Design
Susanne Geppert
Front cover photo credit: Asian Development Bank,
used under creative commons license 2.0.
2
CONTENTS
1. Executive Summary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
2. Methodology. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
3. Made in … . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Bangladesh 21, Cambodia 23,
China 25, India 27, Australia 29
4. Policies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
5. Knowing Suppliers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
6. Auditing & Supplier Relationships. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Appendices
7. Worker Empowerment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Statements from Non-Responsive
8. Living Wage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Companies 80
Sources and Further Reading 82
9. Brand Index.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
About Baptist World Aid 85
10. Survey Data. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Acknowledgments 85
3
1
Executive Summary
This section outlines the research aims
and scope, data collection and findings
and overall results of all companies.
4
OVERALL GRADE
Empowerment
Worker
Relationships
& Supplier
Auditing
Suppliers
Knowing Your
Policies
D– D+ D+ B Abercrombie & Fitch* D+
OVERVIEW
B– A– A+ A+ adidas Group A–
F C B+ A Aldi C+
F F F F Ally Fashion* F
Overall Grades: A– P
C– B– A A American Apparel B
C+ C– C– B+ Anthea Crawford* C+
C+ B+ A+ A+ APG & Co A–
D– C– B– A+ Arcadia Group C+
D+ C+ B+ A+ AS Colour B–
D+ C+ B A+ ASOS B–
F C– C A– Bardot C–
D– D+ C+ B+ Ben Sherman Australia C–
exploitation in their supply chains.
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
F C C+ A+ Best & Less C
F F F F Betts* F
D+ D+ B+ A+ Big W C+
D– C C+ A+ Billabong C+
F F F F Bloch* F
the risks of forced labour, child labour, and
F B– C+ D– Blue Illusion C–
World Aid Australia examining labour rights
This is the fourth report produced by Baptist
strength of their systems to mitigate against
It grades 106 companies, from A to F, on the
D+ C+ B A+ Boden B–
management systems in the fashion industry.
F D+ B A+ Brand Collective C
D D+ B+ A+ Clarks C+
D+ C+ B A+ Coles C+
F F F D Corporate Apparel Group* F
B– B+ A+ A+ Cotton On Group A–
C+ B+ A A+ Country Road Group B+
C C+ C+ A+ Cue Clothing Co B–
C+ B– B+ A+ David Jones B+
F F F F Decjuba* F
D+ B– B+ A+ Designworks B–
C– B A+ A+ Esprit B+
A– A A+ A+ Etiko A+
D C C+ A+ EziBuy C+
D+ C C A Factory X C
F F F F Farmers* F
F D D+ A+ Fast Future Brands D+
F D+ C B Forever 21 D+
C C+ A– A+ Forever New B
C+ B+ A+ A+ Freeset A–
C– C+ B+ A+ Fruit of the Loom B–
lives of 1,134 garment workers.
D– D C– A+ Fusion Retail Brands C–
D+ C+ B+ A+ Gap B–
F F F B Gazal* D–
F C C+ A+ General Pants C
C– C+ C+ A+ Glassons B–
D+ C C+ A+ Gorman C+
D D B+ A+ Grosby C
slavery. The report has grown in scope and
C+ B+ A+ A+ H&M B+
work place, a living wage, and freedom from
that the rights of the workers who make their
C+ B+ B+ A+ Hanesbrands Inc. B+
F C– C+ A– House of Quirky C–
It now assesses more than 2.5 times the number
The first report was published in the wake of the
industry engagement every year since its release.
D+ D+ A– A+ Hushpuppies C+
products are upheld. These rights including a safe
Since that time, the Report has benchmarked and
factory collapse in Bangladesh, which claimed the
tracked the efforts of fashion companies to ensure
industry’s most tragic disaster; the 2013 Rana Plaza
F F D D– Icebreaker* D–
B A+ A A+ Inditex A
C+ B– A– A+ Industrie B+
D+ B A+ A+ Jeanswest B+
C– C+ B+ A+ Jets B
D D+ A– A+ Julius Marlow C+
D C+ B+ A+ Just Group C+
C+ A– B+ A+ Karen Walker B+
C+ B+ B+ A+ Kathmandu B+
C– B– B+ A+ Kmart Australia B
D+ C+ B+ A+ Kookai B–
A– A– A– A+ Kowtow A
Australian release.
F D+ D+ B– L Brands* D+
F C+ B– A+ Lacoste C+
C– B+ A+ A+ Levi Strauss & Co. B+
B+ B+ A+ A+ Liminal Apparel A
D C C+ A+ Lorna Jane C+
F C– C– B+ Lowes D+
D+ B+ A A+ Lululemon Athletica B+
But the need remains pressing.
D+ C+ B+ A+ Macpac B–
D– D+ C+ A+ Max C
A– B+ A+ A+ Mighty Good Undies A+
D+ C+ C+ A+ Myer C+
C– C+ B A+ New Balance B–
D+ C+ B– A+ Next C+
Zealand, expanding beyond its traditional
D+ C B A+ Nike* C+
Since the tragedy in Bangladesh, efforts to
accelerated, spurred on by increased public
D– C– C+ A+ Noni B C
of companies of the first report, with 83% of
improve conditions for fashion workers have
B– B+ A+ A+ Nudie Jeans A–
D+ C+ B+ A+ Oroton Group B–
Ethical Fashion Report is being released in New
process. And this year, for the first time ever, the
F F F F Oxford* F
companies being actively engaged in the research
scrutiny and concerted consumer calls for change.
C+ B+ A+ A+ Pacific Brands A–
* = non-responsive companies
5
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
OVERVIEW
The Asia Pacific has become the world’s garment both labour intensive and prone to employing
factory, with more than 40 million workers vulnerable workers. The US Department of Labor These 106 companies represent
employed in manufacturing apparel and textiles reports forced and/or child labour is used in
330 brands, to see the grades
across the region. For the vast-majority of these garment, textile and footwear manufacturing
workers, wages remain at levels well below what is throughout the region, including in China, India, of specific brands, go to the
needed to lift them and their families out of poverty. Bangladesh, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Brand Index on page 47.
The International Labour Organisation (ILO) Cambodia, and Pakistan.
estimates that more than half of the world’s forced And though safety standards are improving
labourers (11.7 million), and that 78 million of its for this industry, progress is slow. Factory
child labourers are in this region. Apparel is a fires and unsafe working conditions remain
high-risk industry for these practices, being a persistent problem.
Overall Grades: P– Z
A+
C+
C+
C+
C+
C+
C+
C+
B+
D–
OVERALL GRADE
C–
C–
B–
B–
B–
B–
A
Photo credit: gerrypopplestone, used under Creative Commons Licence 2.0.
C
C
B
B
B
F
F
F
Pavement United Brands*
Voyager Distributing Co*
Specialty Fashion Group
The Warehouse Group*
Retail Apparel Group
Webster Holdings
Simon de Winter
Target Australia
VF Corporation
The PAS Group
Seed Heritage
Sussan Group
Zimmermann
Roger David*
R.M. Williams
Tree of Life
Patagonia
PVH Corp
Quiksilver
UNIQLO
Rip Curl
Seafolly
RREPP
Wish*
Puma
Policies
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
B–
A
A
A
A
F
F
F
F
Knowing Your
A+
A+
D+
C+
C+
C+
C+
C+
B+
B+
A–
A–
C–
B–
B–
Suppliers
A
C
C
B
B
B
B
F
F
F
Auditing
& Supplier
D+
D+
D+
C+
C+
C+
C+
B+
B+
B+
A–
C–
C–
C–
C
C
C
C
B
B
B
F
F
F
F
Relationships
Worker
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
C+
B+
D–
D–
D–
C–
B–
Empowerment
D
D
D
D
D
D
C
F
F
F
F
F
F
* = non-responsive companies
6
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
C+ 13 10
China remains the most
common country for
production, followed
A F by India, Bangladesh,
Vietnam and Thailand.
companies assessed median grade companies received companies received
A range grades F grades
2016 2017
Investing in supplier relationships is high on the priority for many companies:
16% 26% 67%
67% of companies are
making efforts to train
suppliers, buyers and 77%
77% of companies are
working to actively
improve leverage and
factory managers to relationships with
understand human suppliers, through
While transparency remains a challenge in the trafficking, child supplier consolidation
industry, we have seen an improvement with the labour, and forced and/or industry
percentage of companies publishing full supplier labour risks. collaboration?
lists going from 16% to 26% in the last year alone.
Worker Empowerment
D+
remains the area where
7%
Tracing of raw materials remains a huge the most work still needs to
challenge with just 7% of companies knowing
be done, with the median
where all of their cotton is coming from.
grade for that section of our
assessment being a D+.
7
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
INDUSTRY PROGRESS
Baptist World Aid’s first report
on the fashion industry was
published in 2013 and since
59% 59% of companies assessed
then, we have seen the industry in the 2016 Report improved
make significant progress in their grade in the 2017 Report
the quality of their labour rights
management systems…
Traceability
Companies tracing inputs suppliers Companies tracing raw materials suppliers
deeper into the 2013 49% 2013 17%
supply chains
has increased
steadily over the
last four years:
2015
2016
61%
79%
2015
2016
31%
39%
2017
2017 81% 2017 45%
42% The number
of companies
investing in paying
2013
2015
11%
14%
2016
fairer wages to 2016 32%
workers 2017 42%
The percentage of companies tracking the presence of trade unions and collective
bargaining agreements in the majority of their factories has doubled since 2016.
8
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
KEY FINDINGS
Key Findings factory and were willing to publicly disclose where monitoring suppliers back to fabric production
Company Performance they were producing. Etiko and Mighty Good (second tier suppliers), while Patagonia has done
Undies, also demonstrated that many of their relatively more to trace its raw materials (third tier
Niche ethical producers have consistently been the
suppliers were paying a living wage. suppliers) and demonstrate improved wages for
best performers when it comes to strong labour
Of the multinational companies, Patagonia and workers.
rights management. Etiko, Mighty Good Undies,
and RREPP all scored the top grade, A+. These Inditex (Zara) scored the highest with an A grade. Cotton On Group, Pacific Brands and APG & Co
companies knew their suppliers from farm to Inditex was particularly strong on tracing and were the best performing mid-to-large size
companies headquartered in Australia, both
scoring an A–. New Zealand’s best performers
were Kowtow and Liminal Apparel, both scoring
an A grade.
One of the most encouraging trends has been the
continued improvement in company efforts. Over
the past 12 months, Macpac, OrotonGroup,
Lululemon Athletica, and Karen Walker have all
demonstrated significant increases of investment
in their labour rights approach. Each have moved
into the B grade range. OrotonGroup, for instance,
tightened its policies, invested substantially in
identifying the factories it sources from, and
improved its supplier relationships. Subsequently,
its grade moved from D+ to B–.
Supplier Knowledge
Knowing suppliers is a key pillar of a strong labour
rights management system. If brands don’t know
or don’t care who their suppliers are, there is
virtually no way of ensuring that the workers who
make their products are not being exploited. It is
encouraging, then, that this continues to be one of
the most significant areas of improvement within
the fashion industry.
Photo credit: Mark Fischer, used
under Creative Commons Licence 3.0. 9
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
KEY FINDINGS
The 2017 Ethical Fashion Report found that more collaboratively through the Better Cotton Initiative
than three quarters of assessed companies knew (BCI) to do so. Companies that have published
each of their final stage manufacturing suppliers BCI is a multi-stakeholder initiative that works with supplier lists in the last year:
(first tier). For most companies, it is at this stage of brands, NGOs, farms, and cotton-traders to
the supply chain that they have the strongest improve social and environmental protections, and • APG & Co • Jeanswest
relationship. Thanks to this strong visibility, the increase farm yields (read more on page 36). • Big W • Lululemon Athletica
worst forms of exploitation, forced labour, and Amongst mid-to-large companies, Kathmandu has
child labour are now far less prevalent at this stage • Brand Collective • Pacific Brands
been a stand out performer when it comes to
of the supply chain. tracing raw materials. By using a combination of • Cotton On Group • R.M. Williams
However, deeper into the supply chain, where BCI and Fairtrade cotton, Kathmandu has traced • Designworks • RREPP
visibility is far less, the risks remain substantial. almost 80% of its cotton supply and through • Esprit • The PAS Group
Encouragingly though, companies are increasingly Responsible Down Sourcing has traced 100% of its
identifying their suppliers beyond the first tier. The down supply. • Hanesbrands
2017 Ethical Fashion Report found that 81% of
companies are now actively tracing their fabric Transparency
suppliers (second tier); this is up from 49% in 2013. One of the most notable trends for the industry These lists make it far easier for journalists, NGOs,
Furthermore, 39% of companies now know all, or has been the improved corporate transparency workers and unions to verify that the claims
almost all, their second tier suppliers (up from 24% around supply chain practices. Transparency companies make about their labour rights systems
in 2013). demonstrates a company’s willingness to be are accurate, and that they are working as intended.
But perhaps one of the most exciting accountable to consumers, the public, and their Workers and unions can also use these lists to
developments is the improved knowledge of their workers. Transparency is critical to companies that communicate directly with brands about their
raw material or third tier suppliers (usually cotton wish to build trust. grievances and concerns, and agitate for change.
farms). As the majority of the world’s child One significant element of transparency is the Also, several companies have made significant
labourers work in agriculture, the risks at this stage publication of a list of suppliers that includes their disclosures about their labour rights systems in the
of the supply chain are acute. business names and addresses. Since the release past year. The increased openness from General
When Baptist World Aid began this research in of the last Australian Fashion Report, the Pants, Gorman, Seed Heritage, Factory X, and the
2013, most companies argued that tracing back to proportion of companies publishing supplier lists Brand Collective group of companies is
the farm was outside their scope of control and has substantially increased from 16% to 26%. The commendable. By sharing more about their labour
responsibility. At the time, raw materials tracing move towards transparency is even more notable rights systems, they help consumers understand
was largely restricted to Fairtrade companies. amongst companies that have been engaged with what efforts they are taking to ensure the rights of
Now 45% of companies are seeking to trace their this project since it began in 2013; 45% of those workers are upheld.
cotton suppliers, with many working companies are now publishing their supplier list.
10EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
KEY FINDINGS
Non-Responsive Companies Living Wage
and Low Transparency The fashion industry continues to grow each year,
Low transparency is often one of the biggest and is among the most labour intensive industries
determinants for why some companies receive the in the world. It is also a significant driver of
lowest grades. Companies are graded based on a employment for groups who have traditionally
combination of publicly available information and struggled to find good jobs — women, migrants,
any information they are willing to disclose to the and young people. Sadly, this cross section of
report’s researchers. As mentioned previously, 83% society is also amongst its most vulnerable and, in
of companies choose to engage, with most seeing many cases, rather than providing decent work,
benefit in the process of being benchmarked and the fashion industry has exploited them.
gaining feedback. A wage that is sufficient for workers to be able to
Nike and The Warehouse are examples of afford the basics (food, water, healthcare, clothing,
companies that still scored relatively well with electricity and education) for themselves and their
C range grades, even though they did not directly dependants — a living wage — is a recognised a
engage with the research process. This is largely human right. Yet the clear majority of garment
due to their strong commitment to public sector workers receive wages well below this. It
transparency. should come as no surprise then that the chief
However, several companies have chosen not to concern among workers is their low wages.
disclose or make any information publicly The benefits of a living wage are substantial.
available. Without this information, it becomes In fact, payment of a living wage could transform
nearly impossible for the public to make informed the lives of millions by allowing people to lift
decisions about whether companies are investing themselves out of poverty and, at the same time,
sufficiently to ensure that workers are not being drive economic growth within communities and
exploited. For this reason, these companies have nations. Where living wages are being paid, the
been awarded an F grade in this report. likelihood of other forms of exploitation such as
For more information about the research process forced labour and child labour fall dramatically.
and non-responsive companies, refer to the Finally, given the importance of wages to workers,
methodology (page 16). Non-responsive being able to demonstrate that workers are
companies were also given the opportunity to receiving a living wage is one of the most telling
provide a statement about why they chose not to signs that a corporate labour rights system is
engage with this research. These statements are genuinely responsive to the needs of workers.
included on page 80. It is encouraging then, that the proportion of
companies seeking to improve wages has Photo credit: Arne Hoel / The World Bank, used under Creative Commons Licence 2.0.
11EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
KEY FINDINGS
continued to rise. In 2013, the proportion of Companies accredited with ECA include Anthea
companies that could demonstrate improved Crawford, JETS, Cue Clothing, and R.M Williams.
wages for workers was 11%, it has risen each year
and now stands at 42%. It is worth nothing Trade Unions and Collective Bargaining
however, that (in most cases) wages are still below It is workers that have the best visibility over
a living wage level and only apply to a portion of workplace conditions. One of the most effective
workers in the supply chain. ways to address exploitation is ensuring that
Ethical Brands such as Liminal Apparel, Etiko, workers can organise and collectively bargain
Mighty Good Undies, Freeset, Nudie, RREPP, and to see their rights realised. Research by the ILO
Kowtow were the stand out performers for living has affirmed that nations with higher levels of
wage payment. They each demonstrated that a collective bargaining also have a tendency toward
significant proportion of workers in their better wages for low income earners.
manufacturing factories were receiving living While progress in the last year has been promising
wages, a number also demonstrated living wages in this area, the challenge remains substantial. The
for their fabric production. number of companies that could report that at
Hanesbrands is one of the leading companies least 50% of their suppliers had democratically-
among larger producers. More than 80% of its elected trade unions, or collective bargaining
manufacturing, and a significant proportion of its agreements has doubled since our 2016 research
fabrics production, comes from company owned — however this is from a very low base. The
facilities. Hanesbrands pays workers in all these proportion still languishes at around one out of
facilities a living wage. every five facilities.
Other commendable efforts include Kmart The low levels of unionisation and collective
bargaining reflect one of the most troubling
Photo credit: Baptist World Aid Australia
Australia, which has benchmarked wages in a few
of its Bangladeshi facilities and is now beginning to challenges identified in our research: worker
implement initiatives to raise wage levels (see empowerment. This has consistently been the
page 46 for more information); Patagonia, which worst performing area for the industry. In the 2017
pays a premium in its Fairtrade USA certified Ethical Fashion Report, the median grade for this
factories to directly benefit workers; and pillar of companies’ labour rights management
companies that are accredited with Ethical systems was a low D+. To turn this around the
Clothing Australia (ECA). ECA ensures that wage industry must do more to listen and respond to
levels and working conditions for Australian worker voice, and in particular, improve efforts
production (at a minimum) meet with Australian towards collective bargaining and the payment of
At a sewing factory in Cambodia. standards (see page 43 for more on ECA). a living wage.
12EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
CONCLUDING COMMENTS
Concluding Comments companies could argue that the responsibility to emphasising those areas of the supply chain that
The garment industry can be a tremendous force uphold worker rights rested with their suppliers. are of higher risk.
for good. Now, cultural and consumer expectations have This report hopes to assist those efforts and, in
shifted and, as they’ve changed, so too has the doing so, help the fashion industry realise its
In Cambodia, the industry employs 700,000
political and regulatory environment. potential to contribute to a world free from
workers, around 4.5% of the population. In
Bangladesh, the number of people employed by California, the United Kingdom, and the European poverty and exploitation.
the industry has doubled in the last decade, and Union have each introduced regulations that
Photo credit: Daro Sulakauri/Asian Development Bank, used under
is now above 4 million. require companies to disclose what they are doing Creative Commons License 2.0.
to address slavery risks throughout their supply
Cambodians have been able to agitate for a near
chains. The French and the Dutch governments
tripling of the minimum wage for garment
have gone a step further, calling for mandatory
workers, despite heavy handed (and at times
plans to address labour rights and environmental
lethal) government crackdowns. And with global
risks. Australia, inspired by the UK’s Modern
attention drawn to Bangladesh, wages have
Slavery Act, has just announced an inquiry into
increased 87% and factory safety has improved
whether similar legislation should be nationally
substantially.
adopted.
Beyond jobs, garment production generates over a
This shift in expectations has been welcome, and
trillion dollars of export revenue, predominantly for
the progress that the industry has made has been
low and middle income countries. In Bangladesh
commendable. But consumers, companies, and
and Cambodia, the industry respectively
governments can still do more to help accelerate
accounted for 89.2% and 77.4% of total
these gains.
merchandise exports in 2014.
You, as consumers, can do more by preferencing
The industry has fuelled the growth of economies
those companies doing the most to uphold the
and at the same time, facilitated millions of people
rights of workers in their supply chains, and by
migrating from lives of subsistent rural agriculture
calling on those that aren’t to do better.
into factory work, giving them hope of a better life
Companies can do more by strengthening their
for themselves and their families.
labour rights systems and by ensuring that
However, we know that wherever measures haven’t workers, from farm to factory, receive a living
been sufficient to uphold the rights of workers, the wage. And the Australian and New Zealand
industry has also driven forced labour, child labour, governments can do more by introducing
unsafe working conditions and exploitation. legislation requiring companies to publicly report
Expectations of the role of individual companies on the measures taken to address slavery and At the Turkmenbashi Tekstil Kompleksi in Turkmenistan,
to address these issues have changed. Once, exploitation throughout their supply chains, where over 3,000 mainly female workers are employed.
13RAW
FINAL
INPUTS
MATERIALS
MANUFACTURING
Monitoring
Monitoring
Monitoring
Traceability
Traceability
Traceability
Living Wage
Living Wage
Living Wage
OVERALL GRADE
Abercrombie & Fitch* D+
Key:
adidas Group A–
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
Aldi C+
Ally Fashion* F
VISUAL OVERVIEW A– M
American Apparel B
100%
Anthea Crawford* C+
APG & Co A–
Arcadia Group C+
AS Colour B–
76–99%
ASOS B–
Bardot C–
* = non-responsive companies
Ben Sherman Australia C–
51–75%
Best & Less C
Betts* F
Big W C+
Billabong C+
26–50%
Bloch* F
Blue Illusion C–
Boden B–
1–25%
Brand Collective C
Clarks C+
Coles C+
0%
Corporate Apparel Group* F
Cotton On Group A–
Country Road Group B+
Cue Clothing Co B–
David Jones B+
Decjuba* F
Designworks B–
Esprit B+
Etiko A+
EziBuy C+
Factory X C
Farmers* F
Fast Future Brands D+
Forever 21 D+
Forever New B
Freeset A–
Fruit of the Loom B–
Fusion Retail Brands C–
Gap B–
Gazal* D–
General Pants C
Glassons B–
Gorman C+
Grosby C
H&M B+
Hanesbrands Inc. B+
House of Quirky C–
Hushpuppies C+
Icebreaker* D–
Inditex A
Industrie B+
Jeanswest B+
Jets B
Julius Marlow C+
Just Group C+
Karen Walker B+
Kathmandu B+
Kmart Australia B
Kookai B–
Kowtow A
L Brands* D+
Lacoste C+
Levi Strauss & Co. B+
Liminal Apparel A
Lorna Jane C+
Lowes D+
Lululemon Athletica B+
Macpac B–
Max C
14EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
VISUAL OVERVIEW M– Z
A+
A+
C+
C+
C+
C+
C+
C+
C+
C+
C+
C+
B+
OVERALL GRADE
D–
A–
A–
C–
C–
B–
B–
B–
B–
B–
B–
A
C
C
C
B
B
B
F
F
F
F
Pavement United Brands*
Voyager Distributing Co*
Specialty Fashion Group
The Warehouse Group*
Retail Apparel Group
Mighty Good Undies
This table provides a summary on how companies
Webster Holdings
Simon de Winter
Target Australia
have performed on three of the most significant
VF Corporation
The PAS Group
Seed Heritage
Pacific Brands
Oroton Group
Sussan Group
Zimmermann
Roger David*
R.M. Williams
New Balance
Nudie Jeans
elements needed for a strong labour rights
Tree of Life
Patagonia
PVH Corp
Quiksilver
UNIQLO
Rip Curl
Seafolly
Oxford*
management system. It breaks down by tier of the
RREPP
Noni B
Wish*
Puma
Nike*
Myer
Next supply chain the percentage of facilities that have
been traced, are being monitored and are paying
workers a living wage.
Traceability
Monitoring
FINAL
MANUFACTURING
Living Wage
Traceability
Monitoring
INPUTS
Living Wage
Traceability
Monitoring
RAW
MATERIALS
Living Wage
Key: 100% 76–99% 51–75% 26–50% 1–25% 0%
* = non-responsive companies
152
Methodology
This section outlines the aims and scope of our
research, the process of data collection and
evaluation, and our company grading system.
16METHODOLOGY
Aims While a number of the areas we assess will provide
Our research provides a panorama of ethical a proxy for how well a brand is able to manage its
Comment on non-responsive
sourcing practices in the fashion industry as a environmental impacts, we do not directly assess
companies
resource for consumers, corporations, investors environmental impact for this report. It is our intent
Brands which are non-responsive, along with
and policymakers. that this will be a part of our future research.
those that do not provide any substantive
We seek to empower consumers to make more In 2017, our research covered 106 companies of information, are indicated in this report by
informed and ethical choices in purchasing varying sizes across men’s, women’s and children’s an asterisk next to their name. They were
apparel and footwear, and give investors insight apparel and footwear. It is worth emphasising also given the opportunity to provide a
into supply chain governance. We aim to help that Baptist World Aid Australia does not do site short statement as to why they chose not to
businesses with benchmarking and learnings, and inspections of factories. Therefore, our ratings are respond, and these can be found on page 80.
identify issues for policymakers to address. By not an assessment of actual conditions on the We acknowledge that many of the non-
presenting the performance of companies relative ground, but rather an analysis of the strength of responsive brands may be doing more to
to each other via an A–F grading updated on an a company’s labour rights systems. We rely on improve their ethical sourcing than we have
annual basis, our goal is to encourage individual data that is publicly available, alongside evidence been able to assess them on. However, if
companies and the industry as a whole to engage of systems and practices that are provided by brands do not disclose, or are unwilling to
in constant improvement of their ethical sourcing companies to conduct our assessments. disclose, what they are doing to ensure that
practices. workers are not exploited in their supply
At a system level, we recognise the positive chains, then it becomes near impossible for
Data collection
impact that the apparel industry can have around consumers and the public to know if these
We assess a large selection of companies on
the world. Our goal is to contribute to ending brands are investing sufficiently to mitigate
40 specific criteria at three critical stages of the
worker exploitation and alleviating poverty these risks.
supply chain as a proxy for the entire fashion
in the developing countries where apparel is supply chain.
manufactured.
In conducting a brand evaluation, our research We actively seek to engage brands (and pursue
team first assesses a brand’s own publications contact with non-responsive brands) using at least
Scope of the research alongside any relevant independent reports and three different mediums: phone calls, emails and
Our research classifies the garment manufacturing data. Our team then sends its findings — marked letters. All non-responsive companies receive our
supply chain into three stages of production: final against the assessment criteria outlined above findings twice by post. Letters are also mailed to
stage, inputs stage and raw materials, as defined — to the brand for comment and further input, the board chair and CEO. This process ensures that
on the following page. Across these three stages which is reviewed in turn. We seek to engage in almost every instance where a brand has not
of production, we look at four broad themes of with brands, collect evidence and understand responded, it is because it has intentionally chosen
social responsibility: policies, knowing suppliers, their processes and systems; however, our not to do so.
auditing/supplier relationships and worker voice, research team does not conduct any factory floor In this edition of the report, 83% of brands have
also defined on the following page. inspections as part of the grading process. engaged directly with our research process.
17METHODOLOGY
What the research covers
Policies Knowing suppliers Auditing and supplier Worker empowerment
Our research collected and evaluated data
(traceability and relationships (worker voice and
from apparel companies using the following transparency) living wage)
classification of the supply chain and themes
of social responsibility. Why it matters: Policies Why it matters: In Why it matters: Monitoring Why it matters: For a labour
form the standards order to ensure that facilities and building rights system to improve
that brands want their worker rights are being relationships are critical to working conditions, workers
production to adhere upheld, brands need to ensuring policies are adhered must be empowered, allowed
RAW MATERIALS to. They are the baseline know which facilities to and improvements in a voice, and have their most
• Cotton (farming) by which a brand can are responsible for the working conditions are critical concerns addressed.
measure the effectiveness production of their being delivered. While no It is workers themselves who
• Wool, rawhide etc
of its overall efforts to product. monitoring process is perfect, have the best visibility of
(husbandry, shearing etc) uphold worker rights. high quality monitoring working conditions.
What we assess: How
• Crude Oil for synthetic helps to provide a better
What we assess: much of the supply What we assess: Whether
fibres, plastics, etc Provisions to prohibit chain a company has
understanding of the
workers are able to unite
(extraction, refining) conditions of workers. A focus
forced labour and child traced; what it does to through democratic trade
on strengthening relationships
labour, allow for freedom monitor and address unions; whether collective
allows trust building, and
of association and protect subcontracting; what bargaining agreements
increases a brand’s capacity
worker health and safety; efforts it is undertaking have been established;
to drive change.
whether a brand intends to trace the remainder of whether effective grievance
its policies to cover its supply chain; a brand’s What we assess: What mechanisms are in place;
INPUTS PRODUCTION the entire production transparency and how percentage of production whether workers are receiving
process; whether the willing they are to be facilities are audited; whether a living wage so they can
• Textiles production brand is undertaking held accountable through unannounced and offsite support their families; a
(ginning, spinning, knitting, important measures the information it shares worker interviews and brand’s efforts in moving
dying, embroidery) towards improving about it’s supply chain.” anonymous worker surveys towards paying living wage.
• Leather (tanning) working conditions in are used; whether checks are
• Plastic (processing, moulding) facilities, such as multi- done on high risk activities
stakeholder collaboration like labour brokers and
and preventing price recruitment fees; whether
squeezing. the brand is willing to be
transparent about its results
and remedial actions; whether
brands are actively involved in
building supplier relationships
FINAL STAGE PRODUCTION through consolidation,
• Cut-Make-Trim (CMT) collaboration, supplier training
and long term relationship
manufacturing (cutting, sewing,
building.
printing)
18METHODOLOGY
Data evaluation
To verify the data provided by companies, we
review company responses and ask for clarification
and supporting documentation. In some instances,
we have relied on audit data provided to us by
companies to verify conditions and benefits that
workers receive.
Our research team and company representatives
work through the survey questions until both
parties are satisfied that the data presented is an
accurate representation of the company’s policies
and processes.
To ensure consistency in our assessment of
companies, after finalising company responses,
we cross-check survey responses. This means that
all data is reviewed at least three times by three
different people.
We then evaluate the data collected by using a Photo credit: Adam Cohn, used under Creative Commons Licence 2.0.
Men unloading cotton from a truck.
survey tool developed with input from supply
chain specialists, NGOs and company experts.
This tool provides a grade for each company and of that company’s products. Low graded strength of their efforts, similar to awarding grades
across each area of our research. companies are those that are not taking these on a bell curve (i.e. best performers receiving A’s,
initiatives, or those choosing not to disclose if they worst receiving F’s and many in the middle).
Grading are taking such initiatives. Some company structures encompass several
The grades awarded in this report are a measure It is important to note that a high grade does brands with differing labour rights management
of the efforts undertaken by each company to not mean that a company has a supply chain systems. In these cases, we have graded brands
mitigate the risks of forced labour, child labour which is free from exploitation. Rather, it is an separately and provided an average for the
and worker exploitation throughout their supply indicator of the efforts and the strength of the company that owns or distributes them. Individual
chains. Higher grades correspond to companies systems a company is undertaking to reduce the brands corresponding to a single company are
with a labour rights management system that, risk of exploitation. Furthermore, our grading listed, alongside their grade, in the Brand Index on
if implemented well, should reduce the risk and methodology is designed to spread companies out page 47.
extent of worker exploitation in the production along the ‘A–F continuum’ based on the relative
193
MADE IN …
This section examines the prevalence of child labour,
forced labour and worker exploitation in a global context.
It provides insights into specific risks of abuse that exist in
garment production across multiple countries, as well as
stories of the positive impact the apparel industry can have
on the lives of workers.
All stories and images are used with permission.
20MADE IN …
BANGLADESH
The garment industry is central to Bangladesh’s gesture, as it is a legally binding agreement and Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety) has made
economy, employing around 5 million workers. brands are collectively contributing $10 million important adjustments to the garment industry
towards guaranteeing a safe working environment there, many insist that change is still too slow.
Cheap labour makes Bangladesh a popular for the garment industry in Bangladesh.1 Inspections are behind schedule. The Accord
sourcing country for foreign companies. covers only 60% of Bangladesh’s RMG industry,
Three years since its inception in 2013 as a
However cheap labour means exploitatively response to the Rana Plaza tragedy, close to and the Accord’s own executive director estimates
that less than half of all exporting factories have
low wages and risk-filled working conditions — 3,700 inspections and re-inspections have
been conducted. According to Union Network been inspected.3 In other words, there may be
the Rana Plaza collapse was a prominent but as many as 3.5 million workers who still have no
International (UNI), one of two global union
far from isolated incident in a series of deadly signatories, over 100,000 safety issues have been protection against hazardous labour conditions.
factory accidents. identified and more than half of these have now Global will also stands opposed to the Bangladeshi
been reported or resolved.2 government’s inertia in prosecuting those
responsible for Rana Plaza and other factory
The Accord: Improvements in safety tragedies in the country — Although culpable
The Accord: Still a long way to go
Two hundred and seventeen companies, NGOs homicide charges have been laid against factory
Awareness of building safety in Bangladesh
and global and Bangladesh trade unions have owners like Delwar Hossain (Tazreen Fashions
and global will to improve conditions remain
signed the Accord which covers 1,661 factories. factory fire, 2012), at the time of this report’s
strong, but while the Accord (and the voluntary
The Accord is more than lip-service or a symbolic publication not one factory owner has been
Photo by ASaber91, used under Creative Commons Licence 2.0. successfully prosecuted.
And, while the spotlight is on safety in Bangladesh,
the country’s minimum wage does not constitute
even a quarter of the estimated living wage.4
Millions of Bangladeshis remain unable to provide
for their families’ basic needs.
1 Bangladesh Accord: Guide for Potential Signatories 2015.
2 UNI Global Union — The Bangladesh Accord. Includes 75% of
electrical problems resolved. According to UNI, 53,091 of 103,846
(51%) hazards reported/resolved; according to Accord executive
director, Rob Wayss, 64%: see Kaye 2016.
3 Kaye 2016.
4 Global Living Wage Coalition.
Dhaka, Bangladesh. The country’s capital is home
to an estimated 14.5 million people, many of whom
work in the apparel industry.
21MADE IN …
BANGLADESH
SALAHEYA’S STORY: Struggling
to support her family
Salaheya Khatun was a child bride and teen
mother who suffered brutal domestic violence
before she found a homeworker job stitching
quilts. But poverty led her to leave her family
and become a garment worker at a popular
UK retailer’s supplier in Dhaka.
Photo credit: Heather Stilwell / Labour Behind the Label.
Now in her mid-20s, Salaheya is working 72-hour
weeks and earning just 7000 Taka a month
(roughly AUD$113). That’s only about half of a
living wage!1
Sewing from 8am to 5pm, she then does three
hours of overtime before returning to her room
in a nearby slum, a tiny space she shares with two
other garment workers. Salaheya only sees her
daughter once every two to three months — her
parents care for the child, but they live in a village
six hours away.
Because she is sending her parents almost half
of her 7000 Taka salary to help care for her Bangladeshi garment worker Salaheya Khatun.
daughter, Salaheya cannot afford to cover her own
basic needs. Salaheya also explains that the factory where she “I just want to be able
works is hostile to unions — about 50 employees
“I am in debt by around 1000 Taka every month to support my family.”
because I need to pay for groceries and supplies were fired for attempting to join one. She sees
brand representatives visit the factory but has Salaheya, Bangladeshi
on credit. I need to find work at a factory with a
never been given the opportunity to speak garment worker
higher salary,” she says. “I just want to be able to
support my family.” with them.
1 Global Living Wage Coalition.
22MADE IN …
CAMBODIA
Apparel is key to Cambodian industry, making Labour Organization (ILO) factory assessments a In fact, the two are related: because 60–80%
up 80% of the country’s total exports. 700,000 prerequisite for exporting factories. They’ve gone of garment workers belong to 30 unions and
a step further by publishing those audits. associations — compared to 5% across other
workers make garments for a living, supporting industries — these labour unions can advocate
It’s been 15 years since the ILO’s Better Factories
around 2 million Cambodians. on behalf of almost 600,000 workers.1 Thanks
program began in Cambodia. Relative to other
apparel-producing countries, Cambodia is strong to dialogue and conflict resolution between
Minimum wage and unionisation on worker wage and voice. Almost all factories employers and employees, workplace rights
Cambodia has developed a niche for ethical are now paying a minimum wage and there education, legal support for workers, and public
production in the garment industry, being the is a high level of unionisation thanks to Better media campaigns on the plight of garment
first country in the world to make International Factories. workers, industry wages have climbed to US$153
per month in 2017.2
Piece wages and gender inequality
Despite the positive changes seen with respect
to wages, there are some concerning signs that
‘piece wages’ may compromise worker safety.
Earning a piece wage, rather than a salary based
on hours worked, means that a worker is paid per
garment. The pressure to create more clothes
Photo credit: Chhor Sokunthea / World Bank, used under
in less time puts workers at risk of exhaustion
and incentivises overtime. Product quality also
deteriorates as a result.
Another point of concern is the uneven impact
of conditions on women, who make up 90%
of garment industry workers. Piece wages and
Creative Commons Licence 2.0.
the lack of job security afforded by short-term
contracts weaken both the health of overworked
women and their position within their own
households and communities.
1 Merk 2016.
2 Deutsche Welle 2016.
A garment worker in Phnom Penh sews garter to a skirt.
23MADE IN …
CAMBODIA
THEARY’S STORY: From
garment worker to development
professional
Theary Som had heard that being an apparel
worker was a good employment opportunity
to set you up for your future. So, at 16, she
lef t high school and moved with her family
to Phnom Penh, where she found a job at
a garment factory.
She, like the five hundred other Cambodian men
and women at the factory, worked for a Chinese
company producing uniforms for a US brand. She
spent seven years working here, and a total of
Photo supplied by Theary Som.
eight in Cambodia’s garment factories.
When Theary first started as a sewer, Better
Factories did not yet exist in Cambodia and the
conditions for workers were poor. Only one of her
co-workers was a union member. Theary’s workday
started at 7am and officially ended at 6pm; one
hour was given for lunch, but she regularly worked
Theary Som left the Cambodian garment industry to study English and now works for an NGO serving her local community.
an additional two hours of overtime in the evening.
She was there seven days a week, with only one
day off a month. years. During that time, she received a university Theary is still in contact with her friends at the
It was exhausting work but Theary was committed degree in accounting. garment factory. And even though they tell her
to preparing for her future. In her gruelling time as Theary now coordinates an education program that conditions have improved, they still look at
a sewer, she managed to save up enough money for poor children in her community. She has loved Theary and tell her how blessed she is to have
to leave the garment factory and study English. watching the kids grow — some of her former made a better life for herself and her family.
With these language skills, she found a job at a students are now teenagers. She says their English She has shown them there is a future beyond
not-for-profit, where she has now been for six is now better than hers! the apparel industry factories.
24MADE IN …
CHINA
China is the world’s largest textiles producer. Labour shortages in the Pearl River Delta gave the production schedules and increased demands.
In 2015/16, it fell to second place behind India 30 million migrant workers in the region greater So, a workday may be as long as 17 hours, and no
leverage to bargain with employers. However, rest day is guaranteed. Compounding this situation
in cotton production, but remains the biggest there has been an increasing clampdown on union is the fact that overtime may only be paid yearly
consumer of cotton, importing from countries activity coinciding with government concerns — meaning workers do not even see the fruit of
like the United States. China continues to lead about a shift in production to cheaper countries their overtime from month to month. This gives
like Vietnam. employers significant power over workers who
the world in polyester production. The Country
become more vulnerable to exploitation.
is also infamous for restricting union activity.
Excessive overtime Of the audit reports we viewed in our research this
The key risk for worker rights in China is excessive year, there was a pattern of overtime rates as high
Wage increase overtime. Despite relatively good wage growth, the as 200%, and even 300% for public holidays — a
Of the world’s top garment-producing nations, current salaries are insufficient to cover the cost of huge incentive for poor labourers to work longer
China has seen a significant rise in worker wages, living, leading most workers to seek overtime. hours. In some cases, especially in China, what
which in Shanghai almost doubled between 2010 To address a lack of ordering predictability from workers earned in overtime was higher than their
and 2016. The current minimum wage, which varies brands, factories use overtime to meet spikes in base wage.
by region, is now 2190 yuan (US$327) per month
in Shanghai — merely 57% of what Asia Floor
Photo credit: Ed-meister, used under Creative Commons Licence 2.0.
Wage considers a living wage.1
Despite severe restrictions on union activity,
worker strikes are contributing to this progress.
Organisations are finding ways to empower
workers — for example, China Labour Watch
educates workers on labour rights and collective
bargaining, and provides free advice and
counselling services for them via a hotline. In
the same vein, the China Labour Bulletin, which
offers legal assistance for workers disputing their
employers, is building a network of trade union
representatives and has put together a Collective
Bargaining Handbook for worker training.
1 ‘Wages and employment’, China Labour Bulletin 2016. China sets its
minimum wage rate by region. In Shanghai, where wages are highest,
this went from 1,120 yuan in 2010 to 2,190 yuan (US$327) in 2016.
Living wage calculation based on Asian Floor Wage for China, which Clothing factory in Dongguan, China.
is US$570.
25MADE IN …
CHINA
HAN’S STORY: Labour rights
activism in China
Independent unions are banned in China
— only the All-China Federation of Trade
Unions (ACFTU) is authorised to resolve
disputes between employers and employees.
In response to concerns that the ACFTU
represents managers more of ten than it does
workers, around 70 labour NGOs have sprung
up, many out of Hong Kong.
One of these labour NGOs was the Panyu Workers’
Photo credit: China Labour Bulletin.
Centre (PWC). It supported workers at the Lide
Shoe Factory — which produces for brands like
Calvin Klein, Coach and Ralph Lauren — educating
them about their rights. After over 2,500 workers
went on strike they were, collectively, able to
negotiate overtime, social insurance and housing
contributions with factory management.
It was a great achievement, but it came at a heavy
Meng Han received a jail sentence for his labour rights activism on behalf of factory workers.
cost. In December 2015, four staff members of the
PWC were arrested. Three men and one woman
were eventually convicted and sentenced despite They were pressured into making false statements home as part of state pressure exerted again union
questions over the protection of their civil rights in court about being duped by “hostile” foreign organisers. Meng refused to assist the case against
during the legal process. Director Zeng Feiyang organisations to “incite” workers into engaging in Zeng in return for a lighter sentence, insisting that
and colleagues Tang Huanxing and Zhu Xiaomei “extreme” behaviour. Former PWC staff member PWC’s role was vital because the government and
were detained without access to lawyers before Meng Han was convicted the following month for ACFTU let workers down.
being found guilty in September 2016 of “ignoring “gathering crowds to disrupt public order.”2 He
national laws and organising mass gatherings that had been detained beyond the legally permitted 1 Hong Kong Free Press, 27 September 2016.
disturbed social order.” 1 time, and his parents had been harassed at their 2 Lai 2016.
26MADE IN …
INDIA
Globally, India is the largest producer of cotton Similarly, the Better Cotton Initiative has been
and has the largest land area under cotton improving production in ten states in India since
2009. This improved the livelihoods of 270,000
cultivation, accounting for around 26% of BCI farmers in the 2014 harvest.3 BCI also partners
Photo credit: © Fairtrade Photographer: Didier
cotton production and a quarter of all cotton- ginners and spinners, strengthening traceability
producing land. However, 90% of Indian cotton and standards at the inputs stage of apparel
Gentilhomme, used with permission.
production.
is genetically modified, which means that the
seed costs farmers more to buy and are not Empowering cotton farmers is also good for
the environment, as these communities have an
reusable.1 India is also a hotspot for human interest in refining farming techniques in order to
trafficking and forced labour. Much of this increase yields. Methods that maintain and care
takes the form of bonded labour in all stages for the land — for example, by reducing the use of
pesticides and other chemicals — mean that it will
of garment production.
continue to serve families for generations to come.
Women harvesting cotton at a Chetna Organic farm.
Fairtrade and Better Cotton Farms Human trafficking and forced labour
Given India’s prominent place in global cotton Modern-day slavery is a reality despite being Human trafficking and forced labour — including
production and the prevalence of genetically outlawed in almost all countries. The ILO estimate child prostitution and forced marriage — are illegal
modified cotton in the country, the work of that 21 million are subject to forced labour, with but enforcement is still problematic. Forced labour
Fairtrade and the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) some estimates suggesting up to 40% of victims is outlawed in the Constitution but curiously not
is of particular significance. are in India.4 There are even generations of covered in the regulation of human trafficking
workers born into bonded labour, never knowing under the national penal code.
Fairtrade certification provides direct traceability
from cotton farms through to factories because life outside the factory. Owners create a situation India has ratified four of the International Labour
member farmers then sell to member spinners whereby the worker repays a debt by performing Organisation’s eight fundamental conventions, but
and ginners, and so on. This transparency in labour — however the interest is set at extortionary is yet to ratify conventions relating to child labour,
the supply chain, when paired with the worker rates so that the worker is essentially held as a freedom of association and collective bargaining,
empowerment that Fairtrade standards promote, slave, spending their lives repaying the debt. living wage, occupational health and safety,
is effecting real change for cotton farmers in The fact that 75% of India’s rural workers and 69% working hours, social security or migrant workers.
Gujarat, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Orissa, and of its urban workers are in the informal economy
Karnataka. Fairtrade’s work with Chetna Organic exacerbates their vulnerability. Other factors 1 Better Cotton Initiative; Vachharajani 2016.
is directly benefitting 80,000 Indian farmers, increasing the risk of slavery are embedded caste, 2 Nath 2016.
3 Better Cotton Initiative.
including 6,000 cotton farmers.2 gender, and socio-economic inequalities.5 4 International Labour Organization
5 Global Slavery Index.
27MADE IN …
INDIA
PADMA BAI’S STORY:
Transforming her community
through Fairtrade
Padma Bai is challenging socio-cultural norms
with her agricultural leadership. A tribal Girijan
farmer, she was elected sarpanch (statutory
village head) of eight villages that are home to
more than 2,000 Fairtrade farmers. Padma Bai
herself cultivates cotton, red gram, black gram,
castor and soya on her three acres of family
land in Patelguda Village in the Telangana
province of India.
Photo credit: Devina Singh.
This extraordinary woman has used her positions
of influence to transform her community and
empower her people. She built cement roads in
three villages and one fair weather road with dry
mud using Fairtrade Premium Funds. She arranged
for the government to make ponds for rainwater
harvesting and made clean water available in the Padma Bai and her husband.
village school through a water pump.
She has been a member of Chetna Organics, a as pick-axes, sickle, spades, hoes and good things to say about his wife’s achievements.
Fairtrade certified producer organisation in India wheelbarrows. The centre then hires out these “Women can influence laws better,” he says. “I’m
since 2007. Her relationship with Chetna made it tools to farmers in neighbouring villages. For poor very proud of her.”
possible for her to secure a Rs. 30,000 loan from farmers who cannot afford to buy their own tools Many Australian Fairtrade companies source their
the Fairtrade Premiums Committee. Using these the marginal rate of 2–5 rupees per day equips products from Chetna Organic’s cooperatives.
funds, Padma Bai established Exacuniverse, a them with the resources they need to effectively Those included in our report are: Etiko, Kowtow,
equipment hiring centre. cultivate their land. Liminal and Mighty Good Undies.
Under the guidance of Chetna Organics, her Her husband Atram Rajeshwar works as a field
venture invests in labour reducing tools such assistant at Chetna Organics and he only has
28You can also read
