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UNSEEN NATURE
A flock of pigeons swirls around you on Dam Square. Large herring gulls
squawk over your head, and a family of rats is happily chewing on a discarded
ice cone in the bushes. A bold starling nearly mistakes your toe for the spilled
crumbs he’s collecting on the platform of Amsterdam Central Station. Blue
herons wait patiently on the roofs surrounding the fish market, knowing there
will be rich pickings at the end of the day. In the canals, coots show their
creativity as they turn rubbish into fantastic nests. Bees buzz busily around
the holly roses in front of a house. If you’re really eagle-eyed, you may see
a peregrine falcon carrying a pigeon in its talons back to its nest of hungry
young. And rose-ringed parakeets add yet more colour to Amsterdam... But we
often pass by these inhabitants of our cities, without so much as a glance.
As photographers, we are accustomed to carefully observing the world, but
when we started the Amsterdam Urban Jungle project two years ago, we soon
realised that a whole new world was opening up for us as well. We were helped
by the expertise and scouting of the film team led by director Mark Verkerk,
and by many other consultants and experts in urban nature. The publica-
tions written by urban ecologists Remco Daalder and Geert Timmermans were
another important source of useful information.
This project really was an eye-opener for us. It has changed the way we see
our urban environment. Before, we barely noticed all the nature around us,
but now we see urban wildlife everywhere. When photographing the herons in
the Albert Cuyp market, we immediately heard the sound of common swifts,
nestling further down the road in the Oranjekerk church.
Learning about nature is an enriching experience, and you don’t have to go on
a safari in a faraway country – in fact, you don’t even have to leave the city.
Both the film and book Amsterdam Urban Jungle will help you discover and
enjoy the remarkable reality of ordinary nature, right in the city of Amsterdam.
Hopefully, the film and this book will help this hidden world become more
visible.
We wish you lots of happy viewing and reading!
Marjolijn van Steeden and Frans Lemmens
19
© 2017 FRANS LEMMENS PHOTOGRAPHY © 2017 EMS FILMS © 2017 UITGEVERIJ BAS LUBBERHUIZEN PUBLISHER EMS FILMS, IGNAS VAN SCHAICK, UITGEVERIJ BAS LUBBERHUIZEN PHOTOGRAPHY AND COMPOSITION BY FRANS LEMMENS AND MARJOLIJN VAN STEEDEN TEXT BY REMCO DAALDER (P. 26 TO 27, 46, 70, 97, 116, 186) AND GEERT TIMMERMANS (P. 162). THESE TEXTS WERE PREVIOUSLY PUBLISHED IN BALTSEN TUSSEN BAKSTEEN, NATUURLIJK AMSTERDAM (P. 186) AND HET AMSTERDAMSE BEESTENBOEK (P. 162). CAPTIONS BY MONIQUE DEN OUDEN, UITGEVERIJ BAS LUBBERHUIZEN TRANSLATIONS BY BETER ENGELS VERTAALBUREAU, UTRECHT GRAPHIC DESIGN BY ASTRID SNEEKES COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAARTJE ROOS FIRST EDITION: OCTOBER 2017 ISBN 9789059375109 NUR 653 AMSTERDAM URBAN JUNGLE – UNSEEN NATURE IS ALSO AVAILABLE IN DUTCH: DE WILDE STAD – ONGEZIENE NATUUR ISBN 9789059375000 www.dewildestad.nl www.franslemmens.com www.lubberhuizen.nl All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in an automated database and/or made public in any form or by any means, whether electronically, mechanically, by photocopies, recordings or otherwise, without the prior written consent of the publisher. The numbers of red American crayfish in Amsterdam have been on the rise for some decades now. This freshwater lobster is often seen in the eastern part of the city. It moves to different canals and bays via streets and dykes, especially during wet weather. Following pages: city coots reuse all kinds of materials for their nests. They tend to recycle a lot of plastic, and some coot pairs have a clear preference for gaudy colourful home decoration.
AMSTERDAM More than thirty species of mammal are found in the city of Amsterdam, along with one hundred and fifty
species of birds. These are actual breeding birds; not the ones that just fly past, but nest builders, egg
layers, chick rearers. Sixty species of fish swim in the city’s waters.
NATURE RESERVE Experts have found eleven hundred types of mush-
rooms in the city and the immediate area. Foxes
penetrate deep into the city, sometimes into
the heart of the Jordaan neighbourhood. Stoats
roam the city’s edges, grass snakes control the
Diemerzeedijk, goshawks and sparrowhawks
hunt pigeons and blackbirds in the city parks,
dwarf bats chase mosquitoes on Dam square.
and will fly away in panic if you come within 50
yards. These are the same duck species, and
perhaps even the same ducks, because ducks
found in the park regularly fly to the city edges
to complement their monotonous menu of bread
with grass. They know they have nothing to fear
from people in the city, but it’s different in the
countryside.
keeps temperatures in the city a few degrees
higher than in the countryside, which is espe-
cially important in winter. For many animals, a
severe winter is disastrous. Water freezes over,
the frozen ground is covered by snow, and food
becomes unreachable. Those few extra degrees
of warmth in the city can mean the difference
between life and death. Biting winds are held
Lots of species have made the city their favou- back by the buildings, overhanging roof ridges
rite habitat. There are also a number of very rare Two: The city is a patchwork made up of lots provide protection against rain and hail. This
species, some which are so threatened in the of different small areas. In the countryside of way, the city provides animals with a pleasant
Netherlands that they are on the red list. That the Veluwe, on the other hand, there are woods, climate in general.
does not mean that they are safe or that they woods, and more woods, full of animals which And there is more than enough food, thanks to
enjoy extra legal protection, by the way. It only love woods. The Amsterdam Bos in Amsterdam is us humans who spill it all day long. Grain and
means that these species are listed on a bit indeed a mature wood with woodland creatures, animal feed are spilt in stables and petting zoos,
of paper somewhere, and that bureaucrats are but there are also parks, meadows, marshes the Damrak is covered with bits of uneaten ham-
constantly wailing over their sad fate. with reeds and willows, and sandy areas. There burger and discarded potato chips. If you’re an
Those hundreds and thousands of plants and are areas of water with fresh water and brackish animal that doesn’t particularly like chips, then
animals have good reasons to live in the city, water, steep quays and gently-sloping shores, a chip-loving duck or rat might make a good
and here are what I consider the three most there are canals, moats and ponds in all sorts meal for you instead, and so everyone’s happy.
important. and sizes. And on top of that, there are the
houses. Animals use our homes as if they were Friendly people, a variety of landscapes, a pleas-
One: Amsterdam’s residents are kind to animals. artificial mountains. Common swifts and spar- ant climate; these are three good reasons for
In the countryside, a farmer might happen to rows breed under roof tiles, bats hide in church animals to feel at home in the city, and to find
shoot the odd crow, fox or a bird of prey. The spires and cavity walls, and mountain birds such their own niche. Is a city park a good place to
lives of hares, ducks and pigeons are even more as the black redstart love our roof landscape. live? Or perhaps you prefer the scruffy brambles
uncertain, hunted as they are. Lapwings’ eggs None of these animals have a place in the alongside the railway tracks? Maybe a few
are often stolen by egg collectors. On top of wooded Veluwe region. bricks are all you need to make a home, or are
all this, there is the frequent muck-spreading, Each city landscape has its own plants and you swept away by the beautiful viewpoints from
grass mowing, and brutal ditch clearing to animals. Ferns grow out of the walls lining steep the city’s mountainous rooftops?
contend with. In a city park, it’s all nice and quays, while reeds need sloping banks. Perch Either way, what’s so great about urban animals
quiet, and you are safe from all that misery. and bream like fresh water, while the brackish is that they live their lives right alongside us,
There might be a lot of people around, but they water of the IJ River is home to whiting, herring, and that we can study their lives from a table at
are only interested in each other or, even better, shrimps and shore crabs. A wide range of land- the cafe window. No need to climb mountains
come to scatter some bread. They do not sud- scapes offers opportunities for a wide range of or suffer intense heat, but just sit back, enjoy
denly appear with a shotgun, or cut down the plants and animals. It all adds up to those impres- a beer or a coffee, and learn as much about
tree you are nesting in, and animals are quick to sive numbers that we started with: the dozens of animals from your seat as you would in the
realise this. The ducks who eat bread from the mammals and 150 species of nesting birds. wildest and most inaccessible natural areas. And
hands of passers-by are much more timid in the Three: The city is one big cafeteria, and a warm at least you’ll never go thirsty in the Amsterdam
pastures around the city just a few miles away, and convenient one at that. All the brickwork nature reserve.
27
THE CIT Y
AS ONE BIG
CAFETERIA
Not only is food abundant in the city, but the menu is very varied! Birds in particular, such as seagulls, pigeons and starlings, are real
opportunists. They will eat anything that people leave behind, be it bread, chips, or ice-cream cones.
36
THE CONQUEST
OF AMSTERDAM
The most popular bird in Amsterdam is an immigrant. The rose-ringed parakeet, originally found in Asia
and Africa, has been living wild in Amsterdam since 1976, where it quickly became very popular and was
given the pet name ‘parrot’. People like these birds because they are very attractive and easy to feed,
which gives lots of people an additional pleasant pastime. With its bright green feathers and swift flight,
the rose-ringed parakeet is a welcome addition to the traditional but somewhat colourless sparrows and
starlings we know so well.
Those first rose-ringed parakeets were released places where the noise continues throughout the seeds and nuts can always find food in the city.
from their cage by an owner who could no longer night. For example, they can be found next to However, a lack of habitat could pose a prob-
stand their screeching. They nested in the the Utrechtsebrug, or on the corner of Ooster- lem in the future, as they like to nest in holes
Vondelpark, raised chicks, were later joined by park. The parakeets roosting next to Sloterplas in old dilapidated trees – which are a rarity in
some other released parakeets, and the popula- don’t even seem bothered by the traditional New Amsterdam. As a result, they are increasingly
tion began to grow. Year’s barrage of fireworks. dependent on the great spotted woodpecker,
an experienced hole maker who doesn’t mind
It didn’t take long for them to conquer Amster- Since they roost together, Amsterdam bird drilling an extra hole or two, but won’t carry on
dam. Victory began in Vondelpark, where several watchers were able to count their numbers quite forever. The parakeets also face problems with
pairs of parakeets made their home in tree holes accurately. They found that the population has urban goshawks and peregrine falcons, although
and raised their young. Then they moved on to grown by more than twenty percent each year that doesn’t really affect total numbers. So they
Beatrixpark, before taking over Rembrandtpark. since 1994. The exact number flying around will continue to brighten up the cityscape with
It took until 1990 for the parakeets to venture in Amsterdam is under discussion; estimates their colours and their calls. They have indeed
beyond the urban perimeter of Amsterdam, vary between 3,000 and 5,000, so let’s assume won their place.
when they were first sighted in Amstelveen. 4,000. The growth of the population has now
They then spread to Amsterdam North and to stalled, which is a phenomenon often seen with
Weesp in 1998. The parakeets obviously prefer exotic newcomers. First comes an explosive The rose-ringed parakeet doesn’t bother camou-
urban environments, and are not so keen on the growth, followed by stabilisation, and some- flaging itself; its bright green plumage stands out
countryside. times numbers even dwindle. This is because immediately, except in a tree with young green
both raptors and parasites have discovered the leaves, and its call can be heard all around. Inci-
dentally, the females do not have a ring.
This is also apparent from the places they species as a source of food. However, things are
choose to spend the night. Rose-ringed para- looking good for the rose-ringed parakeet, which Previous pages: a pair of rose-ringed parakeets
keets roost in big flocks in high trees, often in has no problem with cold winters. Birds that eat fly to and fro to feed their young in the nest.
97
A FOX
IN THE JORDAAN?
From a distance a fox resembles a dog, but a fox that climbs effortlessly over a metres-high fence right
in front of your nose only to disappear into the night, is more reminiscent of a cat.
A fox is a member of the dog family, and it can Males are bigger and heavier than females. The while the other group came to the city from
bark. Usually foxes bark softly, but they can also heaviest fox found in Amsterdam to date was a the dunes, where foxes returned in 1968.
bark loudly, with a high pitch, usually four times 7.5 kg animal found in 2013. Their acute hearing Sometimes, foxes penetrate deep into the city.
in succession. Once you get to know that sound, means they can pinpoint the location of a mouse In 2014, one was run over alongside the Amstel
you realise that there are more foxes in the vicin- from the tiniest scratching. Their excellent River near the Kleine Komedie theatre hall,
ity than you first thought. sense of smell also helps them find food and and in 2016 live foxes were found on the Marnix-
catch prey. They are creatures that mainly hunt kade and in the Jordaan district. In 2017, a fox
Foxes are at their most beautiful in winter, with at night when their prey, such as mice and rab- was spotted on Lindengracht. These urban
their magnificent thick, red-brown winter coats. In bits, are active. In cities, foxes do useful work foxes are usually seen by passers-by or resi-
the summer they have a slimmer look. Fox tracks by controlling rabbit populations, which can be dents, who then call the animal ambulance to
on snow or freshly-tilled soil are easy to recog- very high. transport the animals back to the city perimeter.
nise, because the trail looks like a drunkard’s The fox who lives in the Vondelpark is left in
swagger, looping from one ditch to another and There were no foxes in North Holland, let alone peace. During the day, this fox hides on the
from bush to tree and back again. Faeces, which in Amsterdam, until the 1950s. The population Koeienweide, before appearing in the evening
are 8 to 10 cm long, are easily distinguished from now living here is composed of two groups. One to look for food in the park and gardens of
cat and dog faeces by the helical tip and odour. group travelled here from the Gooi area inland, nearby villas.
162A young rose-ringed parakeet.
Left: a young red squirrel. Ill, injured, young and orphaned animals can rely on help in the city; the animal ambulance will pick them up and bring them to a suit-
able rescue centre, such as De Toevlucht in Bijlmermeer. This foundation has been rescuing birds since 1989, but now also helps hedgehogs and other mammals.
The foundation takes in around 4,000 birds and 400 rescue hedgehogs per year. About 65 percent of the animals can return to their natural habitat after care or
recovery.
167NON-POISONOUS,
AND PRIMAL
The grass snake is harmless to humans. It’s not poisonous, it doesn’t try and strangle you, and if you
pick one up all it does is hiss a bit and then play dead... and defecate.
So what makes the creature so popular? Not are very grateful. Hundreds of eggs can be laid Look for snakes on a beautiful April day when
because of these habits, for sure. Everywhere in a single incubator pile. Thanks to the volun- they have just awoken from their winter hiberna-
where grass snakes are found in the Nether- teer nature conservationists and these piles, tion to warm up in the sun. The best chance of
lands, people eagerly build places for them to grass snakes are still found in these places. seeing one is on the Diemerzeedijk.
lay their eggs. The grass snake lays its eggs They are completely dependent on our goodwill,
in piles of rotting vegetation, which maintains though.
a constant temperature of 37 degrees, ideal
The grass snake is one of Amsterdam’s ‘big five’,
for hatching eggs. Piles of rotting material can The question remains why we are so concerned together with the fox, seal, common kingfisher
still be found in the Netherlands; at garden for this reptile. It doesn’t sing, it’s difficult to and common swift. There are at least several
centres sometimes, or in allotments where old- see, it eats frogs, and it defecates if you pick it hundred in the city, especially on the eastern side
along the shores of IJsselmeer. They are easiest
fashioned compost piles are still used. However, up, so it can’t be any of those things. Perhaps
to spot on a sunny day in the spring and autumn,
environmental legislation and picky neighbours it’s a primal sense of sympathy for this primitive, in a place such as Diemer Park or along the Uit-
have generally put an end to leaving piles of timid and extremely vulnerable animal, which dammerdijk. The rest of the year, grass snakes
dead plant residue and manure look after itself. nevertheless manages to survive in our highly- keep warm in small hollows beneath the ground.
That is why volunteers gather together plant industrialised environment littered with motorway
The grass snake is not poisonous, and is some-
material, horse manure and straw to create the infrastructures. The fact that the grass snake is times called the ringed snake because of the yellow
ideal habitat for snakes to lay their eggs in, still around means that there is still nature after ring behind its head. Females can reach 1.30 m
according to an expert formula. all. And that we humans aren’t doing so badly in length, while males tend to only reach 90 cm.
after all. It is proof that we still live surrounded Volunteers create piles of vegetation where grass
snakes can lay their eggs.
This work is being carried out in Amsterdam at by nature, so it has a symbolic function. Having
the Amstelveense Poel, on the Diemer Vijfhoek, that function can really help an animal survive Previous pages: young grass snakes are only
in Diemerpark and in Waterland, and the snakes – the grass snakes in Amsterdam prove it. 20 cm long.
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