Written by locals! February 2019 - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine

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Written by locals! February 2019 - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
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February 2019                           locals!
Restaurant & Bar Reviews,
Food, Wine, Beer, Cocktails, Listings

Local • Independent • Award Winning
Written by locals! February 2019 - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
La P'tite Folie or
    "The Little Madness"
    offers contemporary
    French cuisine in the
    heart of Edinburgh's
    West End.

               La P’tite Folie, 9 Randolph Place, Edinburgh, EH3 7TE
                 Tel: 0131 225 8678 Email: info@laptitefolie.co.uk
            Open 12pm - 3pm / 6pm - 10pm (11pm Fri & Sat) / Closed Sun

As well as an extensive wine list with many sold by
the glass, we now also have an Extended Food
Menu. Cheese, charcuterie & fish platters, grilled
snails, beef sandwich, Croque Monsieur and
steamed mussels.
Private mezzanine area available and monthly
raclette evenings

                                        St Ann’s Oratory
                            9 Randolph Place, Edinburgh.
                                 0131 5381815
                               www.ledivin.co.uk
Written by locals! February 2019 - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
In this issue
Cooked up by
Rachel Edwards
Lea Harris
Di Spencer
                                                                                       3
Eleonora Vanello
                           04     Salt 'n' Sauce
Nikki Welch                07     Review The West Room
Sharon Wilson
Kirsty Wilkins             09     Review Bertie's Proper Fish & Chips
James Wrobel               10     Out of Town Review The Orangery at Balbirnie House
                                  Hotel
Front Cover                11     Review Bridgend Farmhouse
Thanks to The West Room.
                           12     Q&A with Jack Monroe
                           14     Review Merienda
                           16     Q&A with Larah Bross
                           18     Review Gaucho
                           19     Beer Back to the Eighties
                           20     Q&A with Dr Michael Mosley
                           22     Wine Smith & Gertrude
                           23     Wine Bacco Wine
                           24     Off the Trolley Top Hats
                           25     Review Daring Burgers and BRGR
                           27     Food for Health with CNM Gingerbread Pancakes
                           28     What’s in Season Musseling in on the Moules
                           29     Listings

                           Publisher/Editor
                           Sharon Wilson I 01383 616126 I M 07486 070333
                           contact@bite-magazine.com I www.bite-magazine.com
                           Design I Donna Earl I bite.design@mac.com
                           © Bite Magazine 2019 – All items contained within
                           this publication are copyright to Bite Publishing and
                           cannot be taken or edited without the permission
                           from the copyright holder.
                           This magazine is printed on sustainable paper.
Written by locals! February 2019 - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
4
     Salt ‘n’ Sauce
     A sprinkling of what is happening this month

    True OriGINs – is a new Scottish Gin
    Festival coming to Edinburgh on March
    29 and 30. There will be over 80 Scottish      Tea of the Month from Rosevear Tea
    Gins to taste, 8 bars representing different   Honeybush – This delicious organic caffeine-
    Scottish regions, live music and a party       free infusion soothes both mind and body and
    atmosphere. Included with your ticket are      is ideal for those in need of some relaxation. It
    an exclusive True OriGINS glass and 'gin       has similarities in taste to Rooibos but with the
    bible', allowing you to sample a variety of    feeling of dark honey. Clinical trials have shown
    drinks. Each bottle and glass served has a     that it can support the body to reduce both
    story. Tickets www.trueoriginsco.com           blood sugar and cholesterol levels. Honeybush's
                                                   anti-inflammatory and anti-infective properties
                                                   can also help combat colds, flu but also IBS and
                                                   Crohn's disease. Acting as an expectorant, it
    We hear that Le
                                                   relieves coughing.
    Roi Fou have a
    supply of calçots,                             In women, Honeybush has been found to reduce
    a type of scallion                             the risk of heart disease, reproductive cancers
    or green onion                                 and osteoporosis and can provide relief from
    coming from Valls,                             menopausal symptoms.
    Tarragona. Chef                                Lastly, if you’re still recovering from a big night
    Jerome Henry at Le                             out, Honeybush is recommended to help your
    Roi Fou is planning                            liver cope. A natural detox tea!
    to serve this seasonal Spanish delicacy
    with grilled octopus for a Catalan-inspired    Rosevear Tea is at Broughton St, Clerk St and
    winter dish.                                   Bruntsfield
Written by locals! February 2019 - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
Tuck into Valentine's Day with a dining
                                            proposal you can't refuse. Celebrate the most
                                            romantic night of the year with your other        5
                                            half and some excellent food. Champagne
                                            oysters, baked camembert, figs, duck, scallops,
                                            strawberries, chocolate and prosecco all
                                            feature on the tempting menu from Forth
                                            Floor Harvey Nichols alongside *that*
                                            view. Four courses and a glass of Champagne,
                                            £55 per person.

Charles Masraff will be hosting a
wine dinner at Condita on Thursday
March 21 showcasing Armenian wines.
He will present a selection of Armenia’s
finest wines which will be enjoyed
alongside a tasting menu cooked by
Conor Toomey. The evening will be
the third of Condita’s wine dinners
and promises to be convivial and
informative. Condita has only six tables
and provides an intimate setting for such
events. £85 per guest; booking essential.
15 Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SL,
www.condita.co.uk

                                             Harajuku Kitchen is running sushi making
                                             classes this month. A sushi master will teach
                                             you about the history of sushi, demonstrate
                                             techniques, and help you as you practice
                                             your newly learned skills. After the class,
                                             you'll be able to enjoy an assortment of sushi
                                             you'll have made with your own hands. The
                                             event includes a complimentary welcome
                                             prosecco on arrival, green tea and miso soup.
                                             Feb 17 and 24. £36.
Pongracz is an                                     From the sensational
    award-winning                                      winemaking team who
6   South African
    Method Cap
                                                       produce Château Haut-Brion,
                                                       the Clarendelle range is a
    Classique sparkling                                superb addition to any dinner
    wine. Pongracz                                     table setting. Clarendelle
    Brut, available at                                 Medoc 2014, (RRP £21), is
    The Champagne                                      a concentrated wine with
    Company, (RRP                                      hints of blackcurrant and
    £12) is clean and                                  blackberry on the nose. This
    crisp with a rich                                  fruity freshness is noticeable
    complexity. A                                      on the palate, along with
    slight green tint                                  oaky nuances and ripe fruits.
    that teams with                                    Clarendelle Saint-Émilion 2014,
    lively bubbles,                                    (RRP £24), 2014 meanwhile has
    and notes of fresh                                 intense red colour with black
    fruit and almonds. Pongracz Rosé has a             fruit, cherry and plum notes on the nose and hints
    delicate blush pink colour with dancing            of pepper and spice. Available at Laithwaite’s
    bubbles, brioche notes and ripe fruit.             Wine, Harrods, Hedonism Wines, Bibendum Wine.

    Competition
    WIN LEON: Fast Vegan from Rebecca
    Seal, Chantal Symons and John
    Vincent
    We *love* this cookbook that has more than 150 vegan dishes.
    At first glance, the list of ingredients can appear intimidating,
    but at heart, this book is a celebration of fruit, vegetables, spices
    and herbs. If you are a food nerd (Mrs Bite raises her hand), you
    will love it too, but it will also provide plenty of meal ideas for
    everyone whether you are vegan, veggie, flexi or pesci.

    Enter now!
    Bite has one cookbook to give away to a reader. Just email bitepublishing@gmail.com with an answer
    to the following question, and we will choose a winner.
    What is your favourite vegetable dish and why? Closing date Feb 21.
Review:      The West Room Cicchetti
                                                                                                    7
H
        ave you ever been to Venice? If so
        you can't forget the architecture, the
        canals, the beauty of a timeless city
but also the Cicchetti.
A Cicchetteria is where you want to grab a
bite (cicchetto, similar to tapas) and a glass of
wine (Ombra).
Now, you don't need to travel to Italy to eat
Cicchetti just head to the West Room for a
Venetian inspired menu.
The West Room has been recently taken
over by Stefano Pieraccini who also owns the
Seafood Restaurant in St Andrews. Stefano
and head chef Paul (formerly Gardener's
                                                    ingredients and their balance was a creation
Cottage) designed the menu studying different
                                                    worthy of fine dining.
recipes and seasonality.
                                                    We couldn't leave without tasting the
Mrs Bite and I couldn't resist. We went for
                                                    homemade Sicilian cannolo with lemon and
a late lunch on a Sunday. The venue has a
                                                    honey (Mrs Bite loves them) and Venetian
modern vibe with vibrant colours and big
                                                    biscuits with a chocolate dip. The crispiness
chandeliers. Space is deceptively generous,
                                                    of the cannolo dough made us sing 'hurray'
and you can stand at the bar, sit on stools
                                                    while the delicate taste of lemon, rum and
for a drink or quick bite or relax at a table for
                                                    Tonka bean shortcrust biscuits put a smile on
restaurant treatment.
                                                    our faces. A bigger smile came with the bill,
Our waitress suggested plates to share. Crispy      definitely affordable.
zucchini flowers, 'nduja arancini, finocchiona
                                                    If you are looking for a casual dining
and stracchino bruschetta, baccalà crocchetta
                                                    experience with tasty bites book a table at
and homemade ravioli with goat cheese,
                                                    the West Room, you won't be disappointed!
ricotta and black garlic – please!
                                                    (E. Vanello)
The batter on the flowers was crispy and light.
The spicy Italian sausage in the arancini gave      The West Room
a kick to the layer of saffron rice. Baccalà (a     – 3 Melville Pl, Edinburgh EH3 7PR
salted cod recipe typical of the area) was          – 0131 629 9868
creamy and surprisingly tasty thanks to the         – www.thewestroom.co.uk
herbs mixed inside the crocchetta. Bruschetta
was lovely, but the black garlic overpowered        Opening hours
the other delicate flavours. We left the ravioli    Mon-Wed 9am-11pm; Thu-Fri 9am-1am; Sat
until last and thought the complexity of            9:30am-12am; Sun 9:30am-10pm
Harajuku Kitchen is a cosy,
family run restaurant on the South of Bruntsfield
Come in to enjoy our exclusive lunch set menu, pre-theatre menu (for only £12.99) and
a variety of speciality Japanese dishes to choose from!

We also do outside catering - a perfect choice for your office party, family gathering or wedding!

To enquire, call 0131 281 0526
Visit us at 10 Gillespie Pl, Edinburgh EH10 4HS or
book through our website: https://harajukukitchen.co.uk/

 Edinburgh’s multi-award winning luxury brasserie, cocktail lounge and bar.
  Innovative menus using fresh, local and seasonal produce complete with
VisitScotland’s official seal of approval and its Taste our Best Award 2018/19.

     RESERVATIONS -          0131 218 1818            D I N EED I N BU RG H .CO.U K
             Dine, Saltire Court, 10 (1F) Cambridge Street, Edinburgh, EH1 2ED
Review:       Bertie’s Proper Fish & Chips
The plaice to be                                                                                      9

T
        he latest offering                                            vegetarian haggis, veggie
        from Edinburgh                                                pies and veggie burgers.
        restaurateur Tony
                                                                       Many will be pleased
Crolla, Bertie’s Proper
                                                                       to also see gluten-free
Fish & Chips, held its
                                                                       batter and breadcrumbs
grand opening in January.
                                                                       available. And despite the
In contrast to the other
                                                                       fish & chips being served
Vittoria Group restaurants,
                                                                       with tartare sauce, I was
which focus very much on
                                                                       relieved to see a nice
Italian cuisine, Bertie’s is all
                                                                       big bottle of ‘Edinburgh
about that British favourite,
                                                                       Chippy Sauce’ on every
Fish & Chips, with plenty of
                                                                       table. The food is locally
Scottish influence.
                                                                       sourced and produced
Despite the change in                                                  wherever possible, while
direction, the restaurant is still very much       many suppliers are local companies, such as
grounded in the family – named after Tony’s        Pickering’s Gin and Arbikie Vodka.
father Alberto, and inspired by his father-
                                                   The family have big plans for the beautifully
in-law’s assertion that “Fish & chips, done
                                                   laid out and spacious venue, which is 11,000
properly, is an excellent meal”.
                                                   square feet in total over two floors, with
Situated on Victoria Street, Bertie’s is in a      open bar areas and the option to project
prime position to attract visitors to the city     live football and rugby matches onto a large
and the menu is certainly geared up to appeal      screen.
to tourists. Aside from the obvious, diners can
                                                   Bertie’s will definitely be a huge hit with
enjoy black pudding scotch eggs, haggis spring
                                                   tourists, but it seems ‘the place to be for
rolls, haggis, neeps and tatties and deep fried
                                                   proper fish & chips’ will have plenty to attract
chocolate bars, with an Irn-Bru Spritz, Buckfast
                                                   locals too. (D. Spencer)
Bramble or a Butter Beer from the cocktail
menu.                                              Berties Proper Fish and Chips
Beyond the Scottish gimmicks, however,             Restaurant & Bar
the menu looks interesting and varied, with        – 9 Victoria Street, Edinburgh EH1 2HE
smoked salmon, fish tacos, burgers, pies and       – 0131 322 1000
fish curry on offer, alongside the predictable     – eat@bertiesfishandchips.com
haddock and cod, battered sausage and
scampi. There is also a good offering for          Opening hours
vegans and vegetarians – the vegan fish &          Mon-Thu 12noon-10pm; Fri-Sat 12noon-11pm;
chips is made with aubergine, and there is         Sun 12noon-10pm
The Orangery at
     Out of Town Review:
10
     Balbirnie House Hotel
     L
             ast year Mrs Bite was
             sent a book ‘The Old
             Stones – A Field Guide
     to the Megalithic sites of
     Britain and Ireland’ and a visit
     to Balbirnie House gave Mr
     Bite and I a chance to visit one
     of the listed sites. The Druid’s
     Circle is on a woodland walk
     from the hotel, past the golf
     club and near Balfarg Henge. A
     pleasant post breakfast walk.
                                                      peppercorn sauce. It came medium-rare
     Balbirne House Hotel is an A listed Georgian
                                                      rather than as requested (rare) and the sauce
     country house set in 400 acres of Parkland.
                                                      needed more oomph but note the price £15.95
     Inside it is plush and comfortable. Plump
                                                      is hard to beat.
     sofas invite you to relax in front of the fire
     and admire the Scottish colourist artworks.      The fish stew needed a little extra Provençal
     Vases of flowers and earthy colours reflect      warmth and the fish skin was slightly flabby
     the Scottish landscape. Our bedroom retains      but the stock had a good deep layered flavour
     some original features.                          and the cabbage was wilted al dente to retain
                                                      flavour.
     The 'Orangery' restaurant is decorated in
     shades of silver, copper and chocolate.          Valhrona Chocolate Tart with caramel mousse,
                                                      gingerbread ice cream was well-presented and
     Its menu lists classic dishes which at first,
                                                      had all the deep, decadence you want from
     glance look unadventurous.
                                                      such a pudding. The cheese plate comprises
     Mushroom Tart had a crispy pastry case and       exclusively Scottish Cheeses.
     pungent flavour, a drizzle of aromatic truffle
                                                      The Orangery is a beautiful restaurant in
     oil enhanced an already tasty dish even more.
                                                      stunning surroundings great value and well
     Mr Bite had Smoked Salmon Roulade with
                                                      worth a trip for lunch or dinner. (S. Wilson)
     delicate, sweet curried crab, pickled fennel
     and apple and coriander salad. These starters
     both used great local produce cooked with        Balbirnie House
     skill.                                           – Balbirnie Park, Markinch Village by
     The main course for me was Peterhead             Glenrothes, Fife KY7 6NE
     Cod with shellfish bouillabaisse, broth and      – 01592 610066
     bak choi. Mr Bite had the rump steak with        – www.balbirnie.co.uk
Review:     Bridgend Farmhouse
Seasonal food in a community setting                                                                 11

T
       his restored farmhouse                               The food we eat is 60% intercepted,
       stands brilliant white                               that is surplus food that was on
       against an azure January                             its way to landfill. Bridgend uses
sky. An outdoor area has a pizza                            Fareshare, a scheme that redistributes
oven, workshops and allotments                              such surplus food from leading
but only a few people are milling                           supermarkets but this can often
about. New Year is a time for                               result in extra white sugary goods.
repair and renewal. How apt, as                             Such foods are produced as loss
Bridgend is a community-owned                               leaders by the shops resulting in
charitable organisation focused                             waste.
on learning, eating and exercise.
                                                  Donna, however, serves seasonal dishes and
I go inside for lunch with Donna McArdle who      so is canny about what fills the cupboards. A
runs the café.                                    network of local suppliers such as Greencity
                                                  Wholefoods and Bon Accord Drinks help with
The space is light, airy and welcoming with
                                                  this.
splashes of colour from local artwork. I catch
Donna between lunchtime service and a             Don’t panic though there are still home-baked
meeting with funders. She has set up numerous     treats.
community initiatives such as Real Junk Food
                                                  I enjoy a fruity, buttery blueberry, lemon
Project Scotland that is a working partner with
                                                  and white chocolate cake cooked by Bite
Bridgend.
                                                  contributor, volunteer and former Great British
Between mouthfuls, Donna explains that social     Bake Off contestant Lea Harris. Donna and
isolation, engagement and nurturing underpin      team have made springy apple and sultana
the ethos at Bridgend. The café is resourced by   scones, raisin and chocolate Tiffin and vegan
volunteers who learn cooking and other skills     flapjacks. My bill comes to £6.
and receive qualifications such as food hygiene
                                                  Bridgend is on the edge of Craigmillar Castle
certificates.
                                                  Park and a walk followed by Sunday Roast
I choose the chicken salad with butternut         beckons. Donna plans to start serving them
squash, spinach, red peppers and tomatoes.        from March 8.
The bird is juicy, the squash neither mushy
                                                  Meantime pop in to nurture yourself and your
nor too firm. It's a fresh, colourful, seasonal
                                                  community with some tasty food. (S. Wilson)
plate of food. Donna has baked potato that's
cooked flesh has been scooped out, mixed with     Bridgend Inspiring Growth
goat’s cheese and sweet red peppers. Grated       – Bridgend Farmhouse, 41 Old Dalkeith Road,
cheese on top, it is returned to the oven until   Edinburgh EH16 4TE
the cheddar bubbles orange and brown and          – 0131 564 0068
dribbles down crispy skin.                        – info@bridgendfarmhouse.org.uk
Q&A with Jack Monroe
12   Jack Monroe, the journalist, author and food poverty campaigner, appeared at Edinburgh
     Wellbeing Festival at The Assembly Rooms last month. Mrs Bite and contributor Tracy Griffen
     put some questions to her. Thanks, Jack for taking time out of your busy schedule to answer our
     sometimes tricky, sometimes plain nosey questions.

     If you could wave a magic food                        slashing the very support systems that help
     wand, is there one policy or law you                  children from disadvantaged backgrounds to
     would implement to eradicate or help                  thrive.
     alleviate food poverty?
                                                           You have Cypriot heritage – what are
     Abolish the Tory Government and put in                your favourite Cypriot foods and/or
     a coalition of Greens, Lib Dems, SNP, Plaid           dishes?
     Cymru and Labour. Minus Kate Hoey. That’d
                                                           Moussaka, avgolemono, koupepia, kokkinisto
     be a start.
                                                           are the foods of my childhood.
     What is your favourite or most useful
                                                           What is your favourite snack for kids?
     kitchen utensil?
                                                           My boy likes apple crisps, which is lucky I
     My hands.
                                                           guess, and crackers with spready cheese. When
     What do you think is the tastiest way                 we are out and about, I get him baby food
     to cook a turnip?                                     snacks like Ella's Kitchen pouches or similar, as
                                                           at least they aren't pumped full of nonsense.
     Pickle it! Finely slice it very thinly and blanch
     it in boiling water for two minutes. Drain half       Name a few tasty dishes you can cook
     the water away and replace with white vinegar         based on a tin of tomatoes.
     - [pickling vinegar is cheap] - and a tablespoon
                                                           Soup, curry, chilli, gazpacho, pasta sauce,
     of sugar, a few pinches of salt and some spices
                                                           lasagne, bolognese, puttanesca, panzanella…
     of choice. Mustard and garlic are excellent
     choices! Pop in a clean jar, making sure the          What will be our national post-Brexit
     pickling liquid covers the turnips all the way to     dish?
     the neck of the jar to knock any excess air out.
                                                           Rat soup, probably.
     Leave for a week before enjoying.
                                                           What is your go-to/must-have booze
     What do you think the long term
                                                           for cooking and how do you mostly
     implications of food poverty are for
                                                           use it?
     our children?
                                                           None, I’m sober.
     Social isolation, illness, fewer life choices, etc.
     Social mobility in this country is an absolute        Do you think every citizen should
     joke; our politicians pay lip service to it while     have ‘a right to food and if yes why?
I believe you have recently
                                                             become vegetarian, what are
                                                             your reasons and what do you               13
                                                             miss (if anything)?
                                                             I still cook with meat and fish for
                                                             work so I can't reasonably describe
                                                             myself as vegan, it pisses ‘real' vegans
                                                             off. But I am writing a veggie and
                                                             vegan cookbook and think that if
                                                             we all reduced our meat and dairy
                                                             consumption a little, it would
                                                             make a significant difference to our
                                                             personal health and the health of our
                                                             environment. We don't all have to do
                                                             everything, but we can all do a little.
                                                             Which TV Chef do you most
                                                             admire and why?
                                                             Nigella Lawson, Jamie Oliver, Sabrina
                                                             Ghayour, all for doing their own thing
                                                             in their own way and not conforming
                                                             to the bullyboy nature of the kitchen.
                                                             What is your idea of a romantic
                                                             meal?
                                                             Something I haven’t had to cook
Yes, because food is a fundamental human                     myself!
right and it’s an abomination that people in        What is your favourite breakfast?
the sixth richest economy in the world are
starving.                                           Pancakes. At the weekend I make dozens of
                                                    them for my family, and we all take them
Your recipes are great – where did you              back to my bed for a picnic, cuddles, and the
learn to cook?                                      newspapers. It's a blissful family routine and
I taught myself, starting with the backs of pasta   one I hope we continue for many years to
sauce jars and writing the ingredients down,        come.
then through experimentation and research. I        What did you focus on at The Well-
used the BBC Good Food website a lot, Jamie’s       Being Festival?
30 Minute Meals, and an old second-hand
Gordon Ramsay book, so I learned from the           The place that food has in our emotional
best!                                               wellbeing as well as physical and mental.
Review:     Merienda Small plates, shared
14
     S
          troll the cobbled streets of North West       Campbell says. “We wanted the salsify to be
          Circus Place and you’ll come across           a stand-out item, so we chose a light parsley
          Merienda. Aka a light meal (if you            risotto, which boosts its earthiness without
     happen to be in the Mediterranean). Aka the        overpowering it. The other ‘oyster’ we serve
     Mediterranean-inspired newcomer on the             in the dish is an oyster mushroom and they all
     Stockbridge dining scene.                          combine really well.”
     The fading afternoon light streams through         The wine: Picpoul
     the eatery’s floor-to-ceiling windows, white
                                                        Merienda’s wine list is sourced from the
     tables and chairs placed strategically around
                                                        Mediterranean, tying in to the restaurant’s
     the relatively small space. The bar area, whisky
     bottles lining the shelves, leads
     straight into the kitchen, chefs
     Campbell Mickel and Robbie
     Probert visible as they work.
     The menu the pair create is
     intriguing: constantly revolving
     small plates – up to 30 at any
     one time, which change every
     four weeks. Part of the ethos of
     Merienda is communal dining – the
     ability to pick and choose small
     plates to share. This allows you to
     try a few things on the menu rather
     than one main meal, in a sense
     creating your own tasting menu.
     The dish: parsley risotto,
     salsify and oyster mushroom
     Take the parsley risotto, salsify

                                                                                                         Photograph: Richard Chaudhry
     and oyster mushroom, neatly
     presented, a mini work of art,
     really. “This dish is braised in red
     wine, vegetable stock, honey, star
     anise and garlic, then twice cooked
     by roasting it off with butter
     (which gives it a sticky, unctuous
     glaze and a slight oyster flavour),”
culinary roots. The options are versatile to         accident that it’s burnt! The caramelised bark
pair with the variety of dishes and flavours         gives the dessert flavour and texture.”
on offer.                                            (K. Wilkins)                                     15
One example: Picpoul, l’Equilibristes,
Languedoc, France 2016. The producers of the         Read our foodie Q&A on the Bite website:
small estate purposefully select grapes that         bit.ly/CampbellMickel
allow them to create unique, organic cuvées
such as this one. “Florent (the winemaker)
steers away from added sulphites and
                                                     Merienda
intervention techniques, instead allowing the        – 30 North West Circus Place, Edinburgh
grapes to define the wine,” says Campbell.           EH3 6TP
                                                     – 0131 220 2020
The question to Campbell: which
                                                     – enquiries@eat-merienda.com
flavour do you enjoy the most?
                                                     – eat-merienda.com
“That’s like asking, ‘Who’s your favourite child’.
That said, one of my favourite flavours right
now is our burnt cheesecake with caramel             Opening hours
Grand Marnier mandarins, boosted with a little       Mon & Tue closed; Wed-Sat 12 noon-2.30pm
bit of Madagascan fresh vanilla. And it’s not an     and 5.30pm-9.30pm; Sun 12 noon-8pm

   Great Grog                                                                       TICKETS
                                                                                      £8/10
   Beer Fair                                                              greatgrog.co.uk

   1-5pm • 30/03/19 • ST Peter's Church Hall, Lutton Place
     Please note tickets not available on the door and Valid I.D may be asked for if you
                                        look under 25
Mrs Bite chats to Larah Bross
16   (aka Mama Bross)

     Why bagels?
     Because I spent 13 years craving them and
     decided Edinburgh needed bagels!
     What’s your favourite filling?
     Our Montreal bagel (cream cheese, lox,
     pickled red onions, capers, dill & lemon).
     What makes your bagels special?
     They are Montreal style so they are not those
     big, puffy, doughy New York bagels. They’re
     dense and the perfect size for breakfast or
     lunch. They’re boiled in honey water and they
     have a touch of Canadian magical maple syrup
     in the dough.
     You have three shops now what do
     you do in your ‘spare time’?                      It’s Valentine’s Day soon – what
     Any spare time I get (which is RARE) is spent     filling would you recommend?
     with my family. Two girls, a dog and a very       We call Valentine’s Day “Cheesemonger Day’
     busy photographing Scottish man.                  so I would highly recommend a few bagels and
     Who would you most like to eat bagels             a cheese board – some wine and a DIY night.
     with?                                             But we’ll be doing the Nutella, cream cheese &
     Anyone I have a meeting with                      strawberry special in the shops.
     Anyone who’s hungry
     Anyone that says ‘yes’ after I say ‘you want a
     bagel?’
     What is your ambition?
     To love past this tax return!?
     To retire in the south of France
     To become the world's leading bagel lady.
     What is your idea of a romantic
     dinner?
     Rooftop terrace, sunset, Bubbles, a babysitter,
     candlelight, and a witty & charming French
     waiter.
What is your favourite food, APART                  What would you order for a last meal?
FROM BAGELS?
This will probably sound awful but chicken
                                                    Magic mushrooms                               17
wings! Which are also very hard to come by          What is the one item you would take
in Edinburgh (Nightcap on York place have           to a Desert Island?
them aced) .                                        WiFi

What is your favourite restaurant or                What is your fave holiday destination
bar in Edinburgh and why?                           and why?
The Kitchin will always be my favourite             Bermuda – Pink sands, perfect beaches,
restaurant. It was my first job in Edinburgh and    sunrises, sunsets, the people are chill and
Chef Tom Kitchin taught me everything I know        welcoming. It’s a dream!
about food (minus everything I know about
bagels).
                                                     Larah Bross has bagel shops at Portobello,
And elsewhere?                                       Leith Walk and now at 19 Queensferry
Civerinos (best pizza in town and I feel like I’m    Street in the West End.
back in NYC).

     hairby
  boom
  barbering/hairdressing for men and
  women, sister store to Boombarbers
  which specialise in all aspects of
  hairdressing. Free consultations.
  INAA AWARD FOR BEST
  BARBERS IN SCOTLAND
  136 Bruntsfield Place
  EH10 4ER
  0131 229 5566
  www.boombarbers.co.uk
Review:      Gaucho Breakfast beats
18   Eggs Royale. A DJ. An Argentinian                                everything, twice, if you have
     leitmotif. Dark, classy decor.                                   space.
     Four ingredients that may not                                    The Argentinian theme is woven
     be obviously linked. Yet, when it                                into the subtle twists on classics.
     comes to Gaucho, the four are                                    Alongside the eggs royale is the
     intrinsically combined, mixed                                    Gaucho benedict: same but with
     together to add Argentinian flair                                salted beef (it’s delicious). There’s
     to St Andrew’s Square.                                           also a baked provoleta, for instance
                                                                      – a delicious mix of caramelised
     The restaurant may already be
                                                                      onions, oregano, aji molido (ground
     familiar to Londoners: its steaks are
                                                         red pepper) and sourdough toast.
     served across the city (The 02, Charlotte Street,
     Tower Bridge). For those in the Scottish capital,   A third – and for space purposes, final –
     however, Gaucho opened at its prestigious           element is the timing of Gaucho’s Electro
     Edinburgh address in November 2017.                 brunch: Saturdays from 11am to 4pm. If you
                                                         fancy endless choripan sandwiches and smashed
     And, while Gaucho may be known for its fillet,
                                                         avo breakfast at 3pm, this is your venue.
     it’s now making inroads into the brunch market.
                                                         Included in the £39.95 price are four drinks
     But this is no ordinary brunch. Take its name,
                                                         of your choosing, tying into a lovely boozy
     for starters: Electro.
                                                         brunch vibe: sparkling Argentinian wine,
     Read: dance music.                                  bloody Marys, Aperol Spritz. If you’d prefer
     The DJ over by the bar subtly but                   four premium drinks – pornstar or espresso
     controversially plays background beats. This        martinis, Chandon rosé – it’s £49.95 per person.
     goes against the usual muted late-breakfast         We say: the smashed avo and sparkling wine
     feel you’d expect. But here, it works. It ties in   and electro beats means it’s well worth it. Bring
     well with a boozy girls’ brunch, a morning out      us that avocado. (K. Wilkins)
     sans the traditional tea.
                                                         Random fact: a gaucho is a nomadic South
     The menu itself is another twist. I’d had a squiz   American horseman, similar to a cowboy.
     at what to expect beforehand and already
     decided on smashed avo on toast. (It’s one of       Gaucho
     my favourites, okay?) But this isn’t dubbed a       – 4a St Andrew’s Square, Edinburgh EH2 2BD
     feast for nothing: the food, I was pleasantly       – 0131 278 3410
     surprised to discover, is unlimited. Bring me all   – www.gauchorestaurants.com
     the avo!
     The sizes are manageable, too. I was initially      Opening hours
     expecting a single but decent-sized serving; this   Restaurant: Mon-Thu 11:30am-11pm; Fri and Sat
     was more of a sophisticated, served-to-your-        11:30am to midnight; Sun 11:30am-11pm
     table-with-style buffet. You can try absolutely     Electro brunch: Sat 11am-4pm
Beer:   Back to the Eighties
Cross Borders Heavy                                                                                    19

W
            ay back in                                                  have been times when a
            the mists of                                                customer has asked for
            time, when                                                  something of that ilk,
what is now the Scottish                                                and I’ve had nothing to
Parliament was an                                                       offer among the several
abandoned brewery and                                                   hundred beers in the
pubs still reeked of baccy,                                             shop.
I was a fresh-faced art
                                                                        Thank heavens then for
student determined to
                                                                        Dalkeith’s very own Cross
drink my way around
                                                                        Borders brewery who are
Edinburgh in as cost-
                                                                        keeping the malty flame
effective a fashion as
                                                                        alive, with their own
possible.
                                                                        80/-, The Heavy.
Back then, spending an
                                                                        Over Christmas the Heavy
evening in the pub was
                                                                        was promoted to part of
actually a reasonably
                                                                        Cross Borders core range,
cheap night out, and
                                                                        a move which should see
drinking options were
                                                                        it available at a lot more
far more limited than
                                                   pubs and offies in 2019.
today, so when you found a beer that worked
for you, chances are you would be drinking a       It’s a lovely beer; A deep, burnished, amber red
whole lot more of it before kicking out time.      colour with a proper head of fine off-white
                                                   foam. Somewhat fruity on the nose, with
Most pubs would offer Deuchars, Guinness,
                                                   aromas of dried peel, quince, and earl grey
Belhaven Best, a range of interchangeable
                                                   and ginger nuts. The palate is medium weight,
lagers and if you were lucky an eighty shilling.
                                                   clean and superbly balanced; with sweet
I would tend to gravitate towards the 80/-         caramel notes, mild bitterness and a definite
(possibly because it was always among the          (but not at all unpleasant) metallic zing of
cheapest offerings at the bar) and nine times      acidity on the finish.
out of ten this would mean a pint of Caley.
                                                   At a smidgen over 4%, it is eminently boshable,
Sadly, Caledonian Eighty Shilling has since        and a 33cl tin should set you back about £2.50.
rebranded itself as “Edinburgh Castle” and is
                                                   I’m writing this on Burns night, and I can attest
nowhere near as ubiquitous as it was twenty
                                                   that a mild, fruity beer like this is what is
years ago. Malty, session strength beers, with
                                                   needed to wash down a salty, fatty dish like
only a delicate hop character, are far from
                                                   haggis (handy that). (J. Wrobel)
fashionable these days: To my shame, there
Q&A with Dr Michael Mosley
20   A book and digital programme The
     Fast 800 have been published by
     award-winning TV medic Dr Michael
     Mosley.
     Dr Mosley says that restricting calories
     to 800 for two days a week can lead
     to sustainable weight loss and doing
     this every day for 12 weeks can reverse
     Diabetes type 2 for some people.
     Type 2 diabetes is linked to obesity,
     and The NHS spends 10% of its budget
     treating it. Dr Mosley reversed his own
     diagnoses with the 5:2 Diet.
     The online programme has a team
     of healthcare experts to provide              Why is 800 the ‘magic number'?
     support and engagement for those              "I introduced the 5:2 in 2012 based on data from
     participating.* It can help you slim          animal studies. Subsequently, studies on humans
     down, supercharge your health and             showed that 800 calories could result in rapid
     advocates Mediterranean-style eating.         weight loss and remission of diabetes 2. Professors
     Despite there being no long term              Roy Taylor and Mike Lean at the University of
     studies, science suggests there are           Glasgow did a trial putting 306 people on an 800
     benefits to fasting. Calorie restriction in   calorie diet for three-five months. The disease was
     rodents has led to neurogenesis (1) and       put into remission in 46% of the group. The study
     been linked to longevity in humans.           led to NHS England committing to trial 5000 people
                                                   with diabetes 2 on an 800 calorie a day diet.
     'Ginger', who is 52 with type 2
     diabetes, fibromyalgia and high blood         12 weeks on 800 calories is challenging.
     pressure said of The Fast 800, "After
                                                   "That's for people who want to reverse diagnoses.
     doing the programme, there were
                                                   If you want to do 2 days a week, you will see the
     dramatic changes. I had a 48-inch
                                                   results too. Our digital programme is designed to
     waistline that now it is 43 inches. My
                                                   provide resources and support for people."
     HbA1c(2) was at 7.9, and now it's at
     7.2. My blood sugars went from 190            The recipes on your site have lots of
     to 90-105, and I've lost 31 pounds. My        veggies and lean protein but what can
     blood pressure is normal, and I have          people eat ‘on-the-go’?
     never felt better in my life."
                                                   "When I spend long days filming I take shakes as
     Mrs Bite spoke to Dr Michael Mosley.          recommended in The Blood Sugar Diet. They have
no sugar and lots of essential nutrients."          What one thing could the government
                                                    do to tackle obesity?
What do you eat for breakfast?
                                                    The Sugar Tax is good. Ironically if it works,       21
"Eggs, kipper, porridge with some bran or
                                                    we won't have data. In future, I think, we will
walnuts or full-fat Greek yoghurt with berries."
                                                    view sugar like tobacco. We need a holistic
Complex carbs, like rye bread, are                  approach to encourage everyone to reduce
healthy but would use up a good                     their intake. In Amsterdam, they have reversed
portion of the daily allowance of 800               childhood obesity and have had particular
calories?                                           success with immigrant children in deprived
"Vegetables also contain carbs and fibre and fill   areas.
you up. Real cocoa powder is one-third fibre,
and dark chocolate (look for a minimum of
70% cocoa solids) contains it too!                  The Fast 800. How
                                                    to combine rapid
Do you think fasting is for everyone?               weight loss and
"No, and you should always consult your GP          intermittent fasting
or health professional before embarking on          for long-term health
any diet.” *                                        by Dr Michael
                                                    Mosley, Published
You include people suffering from                   by Short Books,
depression as benefiting from The                   £8.99 in Paperback.
Fast 800, why?
                                                    *IMPORTANT –
"The Food and Mood Centre in Melbourne,             Before starting
Australia found that a Mediterranean diet can       any new diet or
help or even prevent depression."                   exercise regime it is
You recommend HIT (High-Intensity                   important to let your usual health professional
Training) for exercise but is                       know/consult your GP. The diet is also not
endurance exercise good too?                        suitable for under 18's, if you are breastfeeding,
                                                    pregnant, undergoing fertility treatment. For
"Everyone can get benefits by incorporating
                                                    those that are underweight, have an eating or
an element of HIT. So if you are running make
                                                    psychiatric disorder, have heart problems or
sure you include a 20-second sprint. My wife
                                                    uncontrolled blood pressure.
and I race each other up escalators. "
                                                    References/Sources/Links
Obesity is linked to poverty, and your
digital programme costs £99 – many                  (1) Podcast – Dr Rangan Chatterjee – Feel
people won't be able to afford it?                  Better, Live More #44 How to Grow New Brain
                                                    Cells with Dr Sandrine Thuret.
I want the NHS to adopt the programme and
hope to generate data that will encourage            (2) HbA1c is your average blood glucose (sugar)
them to do this.                                    levels for the last two to three months.
Wine:    Smith & Gertrude
22
     W
                hen Amy and Duncan Findlater
                relocated to Edinburgh, they
                already knew that they wanted to
     create the kind of neighbourhood wine bar
     they had experienced elsewhere, it was just
     a case of taking the final plunge and doing it.
     Inspired by the hospitality and wine scene of
     Melbourne they gave up their jobs and set up
     Smith and Gertrude. Now into their fourth
     year, we catch up with them over a glass.
     Smith and Gertrude captures a laid-back
     vibe, the pared back setting is warmed by

                                                                                                              Photograph: Uli Schade
     candlelight and the obligatory vinyl collection
     is now too big for the shelf, staff club their
     tips together to add to the record collection
     most weeks. It’s the kind of place where you
     can pop in for one glass or stay for many.
     The Findlaters are sparky, down to earth and
     open about their wine journey. While Duncan
     fell in love with wine while living in Italy, their   to try everything, and learn as much as they
     real inspiration comes from Melbourne. "In            can. More so, they know what their regulars
     Australia, we realised that you could be at a         drink and enjoy delighting them “sometimes at
     vineyard or in a wine bar and be learning while       tastings we’ll try a wine and just know one of
     drinking; it was a case of try, chat, learn, enjoy    our customers will love it” smiles Amy.
     – so different from the UK”.
                                                           This year sees them collaborate with various
     This forms part of Smith and Gertrude’s DNA,          similar-minded businesses, book clubs with
     their list is eclectic, and reflects their tastes     Golden Hare are sold out until June, and a
     and changing palates. They use their three            series of supper clubs with Jess Eliot is on the
     glass flights to tell stories about the wines         cards.
     and introduce customers to wines they would
                                                           February has a focus on South African wines
     never usually get to try – at times including
                                                           with some new wines on the flights. Exciting
     scarce bottles or pricier wines that customers
                                                           times now dry January is over. (N. Welch)
     probably wouldn't buy by the glass.
     There’s something immensely personal about            Smith & Gertrude
     Amy and Duncan’s connection with wine,                – 26 Hamilton Pl, Edinburgh EH3 5AU
     they are enthusiastic about everything on             – 0131 629 6280
     their list, something which they infectiously         – smithandgertrude.com
     share with their staff, who are encouraged            – drinkwidely.co.uk
Review:     Bacco Wine God of pleasure
                                                                                                            23
B
       eing Italian, my favourite wine bar in
       the 'burgh' is Bacco named after the
       Latin god of wine, harvest and more
generically, pleasure. This gives you some idea
of what to expect!
The place is small, warm and intimate. Walls
are hidden by endless bottles of wine, wine
accessories and parts of wine cases while
tables are carved from chunks of wood and
candles are always lit to create a relaxing
atmosphere.
The selection is entirely Italian, and shelves are   Present patrons Silvio and Vera kept the mid-
organised by region so you might find famous         week tradition and enriched the events calendar
wines from Piedmont or gems from Sardinia            with the ‘mid-month aperitivo’. If you like to chill
like the Cannonau.                                   out with your pals after work while nibbling and
                                                     sipping, this is an evening you can't miss. For only
Staff are friendly and informed and can help
                                                     £5 you get a drink (house wine or beer or spritz), a
you choose the perfect wine for a toast or
                                                     lavish buffet including meatballs, pasta, arancini,
dinner as the bar doubles as an off licence.
                                                     and the full-on Italian vibe.
This also means you can indulge in a bottle at
retail price, just add £4 corkage. Cheese and        Bacco Wine is also available for customised
charcuterie boards made from Italian produce         wine tastings, private parties and corporate
also encourage you to stay and relax.                events. Cin Cin! (E. Vanello)
The Wednesday Tastings are an excellent
opportunity to taste four wines for £10.             Bacco Wine
                                                     – 136 Dundas St, Edinburgh EH3 5DQ
Since its opening five years ago under the
                                                     – 0131 281 1375
Tuscan eye of Valerio LoCoco, the ethos has
been to spread the knowledge of Italian wines,       Opening hours
and an affordable tasting was pinpointed as key.     Mon-Sat 12pm-11pm
Off the Trolley:       Top Hats
24
     I
        f you grew up in these
        parts, you'll know about
        top hats. Beloved in
     bake sales and children's
     parties, the top hat is a
     staple of childhood. But
     you may not realise that
     the top hat is a local treat
     and a particularly Scottish
     delight.
     To the uninitiated,
     the top hat is a small
     paper case filled with
     chocolate, topped with a
     marshmallow, and crowned
     with a Smartie. They
     usually retail for about 10p a pop at your local
                                                        the marshmallow, to which we now turn.
     school fayre, and they almost always sell out
     before anything else. They are, quite frankly,     Your choice of marshmallow is essential.
     the most delicious thing ever.                     Full-size ones can be a bit big. Mini ones are
                                                        too little. You need to find a middle-ground
     And they do seem to be uniquely Scottish.
                                                        kind of size, and then buy lots – more than
     Indeed, I'd never seen top hats before I moved
                                                        you think you need, because you will have
     here, and my (un-scientific, Google-based)
                                                        chocolate leftover, and you can never have
     research found love letters a-plenty from
                                                        too many top hats.
     north of the border. Recipes too, but you
     really don't need one. They really are the         Finally, your topping. You can't go wrong with
     easiest things to make and require only three      a Smartie, and while you can try different
     ingredients and a steady hand.                     things on top, don’t. After all, you don’t want
                                                        to mess with tradition too much. Now all you
     There are, however, some decisions to be
                                                        need to do is melt your chocolate, spoon it
     made. Size is the first: petit-four size, or
                                                        into your paper case, pop the ‘mallow on, and
     larger? (Petit-four is the correct choice.) Then
                                                        top with the Smartie.
     your base chocolate: Dairy Milk is reasonably
     traditional, but you can go wild here. Dark        I’ll be making top hats this month for my
     chocolate or chocolate with popping candy          daughter’s birthday party. If I make enough,
     are both good if you want to change things up.     the children might get some too. After all, I’ve
     However, I'd avoid the strawberry-flavoured        got a lifetime of missed top hats to make up
     chocolate I once had: not complementary to         for. (R. Edwards)
Review:      Daring Burgers and BRGR
                                                                                                         25
I
  f I get another press release for plant-based
  meals, products for Veganuary, I think I may
  just climb into my compost bin and be done
with it.
As someone who eats her greens and is
sympathetic to the environmental, health and
animal welfare concerns around not eating
meat I began to wonder why Veganuary grated
on me.
An invite to sample Daring Burgers forced me
to crystallise my thoughts.
I am uncomfortable with the opportunity
                                                     Mr Bite had the Daring Chilli Cheese Burger
it provides for the promotion of processed
                                                     while I tried the Daring Cluck-Free Burger. Real
foods over real food, beans and vegetables.
                                                     chicken is something I would never usually eat
I think we should all eat a little less meat
                                                     unless I know it is organic and free-range and
and a lot more veg and feel that this un-
                                                     I am not a huge burger fan either. I aim to eat
sexy moderate stance is probably the most
                                                     some good quality local meat when I am able
pragmatic way forward.
                                                     or use it for flavouring. Mr Bite likes his meat.
However, I appreciate also that fake meat            So with our cards on the table, we tried to
may be a preference for some of the UK’s             keep an open mind.
estimated 3.5 billion vegans.
                                                     The brioche buns had a shiny golden dome
Daring Burgers are made from wheat protein           and didn’t fall apart but would benefit from
(46.7%), and various thickening agents, spices,      slight toasting. Crispier onions and lettuce
herbs, vitamin B12, iron and zinc are added.         would help with the texture of this meal in a
They are 300 calories for 100 grammes and            bun too. Sweet potato fries were okay. The
contain no palm oil, genetically modified            actual wheat protein we found tasteless, and
organisms, hormones or antibiotics.                  despite the reasons people have for choosing
Mr Bite accompanied me to BRGR in Nicolson           to be vegan, the taste will remain a crucial test
Street where the burgers are currently               for many folks.
available. Daring Burgers is a start-up run by       For a plant-based meal, we would prefer
Ross Mackay from Glasgow, and business               a bean burger or one made from actual
partner Eliott Kessas, a former corporate            vegetables (Mrs Bite makes beet burgers).
banker from Paris. If you are curious, it is worth
                                                     Having said that, if you are vegan wanting a
investigating further the interest big business
                                                     faux meaty burger experience, a Daring Burger
is currently taking in plant-based food (Bill
                                                     at BRGR awaits you. (S. Wilson)
Gates went vegan a few years ago).
CNM                                COLLEGE OF
                                   NATUROPATHIC MEDICINE
Training Successful Practitioners

Turn your passion for Nutrition into a career!

Become a Nutritional Therapist
through part-time study in Edinburgh with CNM,
the UK’s leading training provider in natural health
Find out more at one                                           RESERVE YOUR PLACE:
of our free-to-attend                                          www.naturopathy-uk.com
Open Events in Edinburgh:                                        01342 410 505

                                               70+ varieties of
                                               fresh organic fruit
                                               & veg available
                                               without packaging
                                               What’s not to love
                                                                               Vegetarian        •   Vegan • Fairtrade • Organic
                                                                               Gluten-free           •Wheat-free • Special diet

Open 7 days a week, all year round
   37 Broughton Street Edinburgh EH1 3JU | 8 Brougham Street Edinburgh EH3 9JH
        Real Foods established 1963. Shipping worldwide since 1975 • Importers, manufacturers & international distributors
Food for Health with CNM:

Gingerbread Pancakes                                                                                    27
A gluten-free, dairy-free, vegan pancake batter!

Dry ingredients:
Makes 4 pancakes
225g buckwheat flour
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground ginger
Pinch ground nutmeg
1 tsp baking powder
Pinch baking soda
Pinch of sea salt
Wet ingredients:
1 flax ‘egg’ (1 tbsp flaxseed    To make:
meal with 3 tbsp water)          • Make the flax egg: whisk the flaxseed and water thoroughly
300ml oat or coconut milk          and leave to thicken for 5 minutes before adding to all the wet
4 tbsp black treacle               ingredients in a small bowl. Beat.
3 tbsp coconut oil, melted       • Mix all the dry ingredients together in a separate, large bowl. Create
CNM recommends the use             a well in the middle and beat in half the wet ingredients to create
of organic ingredients.            a smooth thick batter. Whisk in the remaining wet ingredients until
                                   just combined. Leave the batter for 15 – 30 minutes.
                                 • Heat a large frying pan on a medium heat, adding just enough
                                   coconut oil to lightly cover the base of the pan. Pour a small
                                   ladle’s worth of batter into the centre of the pan and lift the pan
                                   in a circling action to spread the batter and flatten into a round
                                   pancake.
                                 • When bubbles start to appear and the edge of the batter has set,
                                   flip the pancake over. Cook for another 1 minute for the underneath
                                   to go golden brown. Transfer to a baking tray and keep warm in a
Recipe by CNM Natural              cool oven whilst you cook the remaining batter.
Chef Lecturer,                   • Serve with your choice of topping, such as home-made mixed berry
Francesca Klottrup                 compote and coconut yoghurt.

  Find out about training with CNM Edinburgh for a career in Naturopathic Nutritional Therapy, by
  attending one of CNM’s free-to-attend Open Events. For details visit www.naturopathy-uk.com or call
  01342 410 505.
What's in Season:                                                        Mussels with Fennel and
                                                                                  Chorizo
         Musseling in on the Moules
28                                                                                1 shallot, finely chopped

         A
                                                                                  1 small bulb fennel, finely
                  s you may know, my                                              chopped (reserve the fronds for
                  lovelies, my dad was                                            garnish)
                  a huge inspiration; the                                         4oz/100g chorizo, skin removed
         other person who put me on                                               and chopped
         the road to gastronomy was                                               1 tblspn oil of choice
         my mother. Unlike him, her                                               5floz/150ml dry sherry or white
         influence wasn't as you might                                            wine
         expect – she was pants at                                                1lb/500g mussels, cleaned with
         cooking. Rump steak would                                                beards removed (pick out ones
         get thrown into the oven for                                             with broken shells or don't close
         over an hour until it resembled                                          when tapped)
         shoe leather. If dad wasn't                                              Double cream, optional
         around for Sunday tea, I had to suffer the indignity of                  1 lemon, quartered
         eating tinned ham, instant spuds, lettuce, tomatoes and
         cucumber served up with a good dollop of salad cream.                    Method
         If I was lucky, there might be pickled beetroot too.                     • In a large pan, sweat-off the
         To this day, there are some foods I can't eat (jellied eels,               shallot, fennel and chorizo
         cockles and winkles). It wasn't until my early twenties                    in the oil until soft – about 5
         I ventured, tentatively, into trying mussels (these too                    mins.
         came to the plate fresh from a malt vinegar bath care of                 • Add sherry or wine and
         mum). I was smitten by the voluptuous bi-valves bathed                     simmer for another minute.
         in herbs and wine. Sucking the plump morsels from the                    • Throw in the mussels, ram
         shell became a regular ritual.                                             on a lid, and shake the pan.
         Like most seafood, mussels are fast food, from pan                         Cook for a few minutes until
         to plate to gob in less than ten minutes. They are                         the shells open (discard those
         accepting of many flavourings – spices, herbs, bacon,                      which won’t open).
         veggies, wine, cider, and even beer.                                     • Add cream if you fancy. Tip
                                                                                    into a pretty bowl, scatter
         So what you waiting for? Real fast food, real taste, real                  with chopped fennel fronds
         simple. (L. Harris)                                                        and lemon.
         Lea writes OfftheEatenTrack.wordpress.com                                Serve with loads of crusty bread
         @BakersBunny on       and                                                and butter

     What else is in my basket?
     Guinea fowl, partridge, hare, venison, goose, lobster, mussels, halibut, sea bass, winkles, wild salmon, clams,
     cockles, oysters, forced rhubarb, purple sprouting broccoli, cauliflower, swede, spring greens, Jerusalem
     artichokes, kale, celeriac, parsnips, rhubarb, blood oranges.
Listings
                                                                                                            29
Restaurants                                           even 1 litre carafes. Scottish craft beers and
                                                      plenty of softy options... Book a table and look
Asian                                                 forward to a warm welcome smile in a great
                                                      neighbourhood. Brunch everyday from 10am.
Miss Woo’s Cocktails & Asian Kitchen –                Lunch 2 courses £12; pre-theatre 2 courses £15.
Opening its doors in February 2018, Miss Woo's,       32b Broughton Street, Edinburgh, EH1 3SB
an Asian Kitchen and Cocktail Bar, is something       – 0131 556 8092
new to The Shore. The food menu boasts a wide
variety of street food options. From Wings to         The Shore – Next to the famous Fishers
Bao Buns, from Ramen to Pad Thai and a host of        restaurant on The Shore sits this classic bistro
vegan and vegetarian friendly options. Boasting a     from the same owners with wood paneling,
wide range of craft beers, spirits and wines - that   huge mirrors, open fires and hearty satisfying
perfectly complements our bespoke cocktail            food. The food is a creative mix of classic British
menu. Deals inc. 2-4-1 wings on a Wednesday           dishes with a modern European twist. Set lunch
and 1 cocktail plus 3 dishes for £18. Open 4pm-       Mon-Fri, 2 courses £15, 3 courses £18. Bar snack
late Wed to Sun. 7 Bernard Street, Leith, EH6         menu also available all day. Live folk and jazz
6PW - 0131 554 4053 Facebook @Misswoosedin            musicians entertain customers in the bar on
Instagram @Misswoosedin                               Tuesdays and Sundays. Open everyday from
                                                      noon-late.
Bistros and Brasseries                                3 Shore, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6QW
                                                      – 0131 553 5080
Apiary – Heading up the ever-expanding
                                                      – www.fishersrestaurantgroup.co.uk
and thriving Newington dining scene, Apiary is
the bigger version of Three Birds. In an old Art      Three Birds Restaurant – A firm
Deco bank building, the space is large and airy       neighbourhood favourite in Bruntsfield, Three
with seating for up to 60 in intimate booths          Birds is a pocket-rocket of a restaurant. Small,
or bigger groups. Daily brunch, lunch, dinner,        cosy and busy, menus change every three
pre-theatre, served by knowledgeable, smiley          months and daily specials add more choice.
staff. Look out for seasonal menu changes             Famous for sharing platters and great wine
offering 2 days of half price experimenting!          pricing, a warm welcome always awaits.
Mon-Fri 10am-3pm/5.30pm-10pm,                         Open Mon-Fri 12pm-2.30pm/6-10pm, sat-
Weekends 10am-4pm/5pm-10pm.                           sun 12pm4pm/5pm-10pm.
33 Newington Road, Edinburgh EH9 1QR                  3-5 Viewforth, Edinburgh EH10 4JD
– 0131 668 4999 – www.apiaryrestaurant.co.uk          – 0131 229 3252
@apiaryedinburgh                                      – www.threebirds.co.uk @3birdsedinburgh
Educated Flea – Top to tail cooking, dressed          The Walnut – Neighbourhood bistro on Leith
head to toe in tasty, to comfort or excite;           Walk. BYOB (corkage) but Fully Licensed too.
pickling, smoking and preserving all done in-         The best Scottish and British produce, real home
house. Super wee wine list, all on offer by           cooking priced to please your pocket. Dishes are
different glass sizes, 500ml carafes, bottles or      based on the best produce currently available
Listings
30   so there are always tempting Daily Specials on       complement the great food. Enjoy an excellent
     the blackboard. Fresh bread baked daily. Lunch 2     range of whisky too in the ‘whisky snug’.
     Courses £10; Dinner 2 Course £20; Sunday Roast 3     Outdoor terrace area. Simply kick-back, relax
     Courses £20. 9 Croall Place – 0131 281 1236.         and enjoy!
                                                          11 Bristo Pl, Edinburgh EH1 1EZ – 0131 285 1479
     Fish and Seafood
                                                          Café Marlayne (Thistle St) ­– Opened
     Fishers in the City – A spacious and stylish
                                                          in March 2000 this branch of Café Marlayne
     space – the epitome of a classic city centre
                                                          follows in the footsteps of one of the many
     eatery. Set in a converted warehouse on cobbled
                                                          tiny back street bistros found all over Paris. At
     Thistle Street the contemporary surroundings
                                                          no more than 35 square metres it can change
     offer the perfect venue for a casual lunch or
                                                          from the buzzing bistro at lunch time to a more
     intimate night out. A firm favourite with locals
                                                          romantic, intimate restaurant at night. It has
     and visitors for fabulous Scottish seafood.
                                                          a classic feel with wooden warm tones and
     Set lunch & pre-theatre menu, 2 courses £15,
                                                          twinkling lights. Lunch served 7 days a week:
     3 courses £18, everyday 12 noon-6pm. Open
                                                          Noon-5.30pm; Dinner served 7 days Mon-­Fri
     everyday from 12 noon-late. 58 Thistle Street,
                                                          6pm­-10pm, Sat noon­-10pm and Sun 6pm-­10pm.
     Edinburgh EH2 1EN – 0131 225 5109
                                                          76 Thistle Street – 0131 226 2230 –
     – www.fishersrestaurantgroup.co.uk
                                                          www.cafemarlayne.com
     Fishers in Leith – Has been the last word in
                                                          La Garrigue – Regional French Cuisine and
     Edinburgh’s finest casual dining for 21 years. The
                                                          Terroir Wines from the Languedoc/Roussillon. A
     original Fishers is nestled on the historic shore
                                                          restaurant where ‘Chef Jean Michel Gauffre brings
     of Leith. Set in a 17th century watchtower it
                                                          warm Languedoc to your plate’ (Peter Irvine,
     has two beautiful dining areas, the round room
                                                          Scotland The Best). Simple and stylish with the
     and bar and the restaurant as well as outside
                                                          relaxed ambience of a French bistro and a firm
     dining. All offer great atmosphere and, of course,
                                                          favourite with locals and tourists alike. Winner
     fabulous Scottish seafood – Set lunch & pre-
                                                          of the Good food Guide Readers’ Restaurant of
     theatre menu, 2 courses £15, 3 courses £18. Open
                                                          the Year 2010. Also Gordon Ramsay’s Best French
     everyday from 12 noon-late. 1 Shore, Leith,
                                                          Restaurant 2010. THE ONLY French restaurant to
     Edinburgh EH6 6QW
                                                          hold 2 AA Rosettes in Scotland, Open 7 Days for
     – 0131 554 5666
                                                          Lunch & Dinner. 31 Jeffrey Street – 0131 557 3032
     – www.fishersrestaurantgroup.co.uk
                                                          – www.lagarrigue.co.uk
     French                                               La P’tite Folie – Informal, bustling bistro
     Bistro Du Vin – Inside Hotel Du Vin.                 with mixed clientèle. Favourites include moules
     French inspired classics served in informal          frites, steak frites, beef bourguignon, duck, etc.
     cosy surroundings. Open for breakfast, lunch,        Extensive wine list. Two course lunch is £13.50,
     afternoon tea, dinner & famous Sunday brunch.        noon-3pm. Dinner a la carte 6-11pm. Closed
     Expert sommeliers have chosen the most               Sundays. Large groups catered for, set dinner
     quaffable wines from around the world to             available. 9 Randolph Place – 0131 225 8678
Listings

L’escargot blanc – First floor West End              Indian
                                                                                                            31
restaurant. Sit beside a window and reminisce
of the bohemian Latin Quarter or Marais district     Lancers Brasserie – located in boho
of Paris. Provenance is paramount here and           Stockbridge this Indian eatery has wowed locals
you can expect traditional French and Scottish       since 1985. The name Lancers is inspired by the
                                                     owners great, great grandfather who made his
dishes such as garlicky Snails, Rabbit in Dijon
                                                     name as a cook in the Bengal Lancers. Whilst
mustard, Shetland lamb Navarin or Cassoulet,
                                                     proudly celebrating this heritage the restaurant
Îles Flottantes and Tarte Tatin. L’escargot blanc
                                                     has had a revamp and the menu is bang up-to-
is now accentuated by an elegant wine bar,
                                                     date. Enjoy traditional family recipes that use
which sits directly below the restaurant. The
                                                     local produce, try the Afternoon Chai (high
wine bar work directly with traditional French/
                                                     tea) or sip a delicious pomegranate martini.
Scottish producers to create a seasonal, artisan     Open 12-11pm 7 days a week. 5 Hamilton Place,
offering, ensuring they’re behind each step of       Stockbridge, Edinburgh EH3 5BA – 0131 315 4335
its hand-reared production. With each mouthful
of charcuterie and cheese you’ll taste a burst       Japanese
of heritage, which is guaranteed to suit each
palette. The restaurant is open Mon-Thurs            Harajuku Kitchen – Edinburgh’s most
12noon-2.30pm and 5.30pm-10pm. Fri & Sat             authentic Japanese restaurant. Awarded one
12noon-3pm and 5.30pm-10pm. Closed Sunday.           AA Rosette for its outstanding Japanese cuisine
                                                     and sushi, which is always “prepared with care,
The wine bar is open Mon-Sat 12noon-late.
                                                     understanding and skill, using good quality
17 Queensferry St – 0131 226 1890
                                                     ingredients.” The light, bright and relaxed bistro
– www.lescargotblanc.co.uk/#welcome
                                                     specialises in small dishes, ideal for sharing, such
L’escargot bleu – “French twist using the best       as classics like Beef Tataki and Chicken Karaage
of Scotland”. The Auld Alliance is alive and well!   to more unusual delicacies such as Salmon
Chef Patron Fred Berkmiller seeks out others         Nanban, Gomadare salad and Takoyaki. They
that share this passion for excellence. Producers    also offer a range of noodle and Japanese curry
of Scotland for 1st class quality meat, fresh        dishes and a wide variety of freshly made sushi,
water fish, handpicked fruits and vegetables         sashimi and maki – guaranteed to have you
whilst his partner Betty will proudly serve          coming back for more. Mon-Fri 12 noon-3pm,
you Hervé Mons exclusive selection of French         5pm-10pm; Sat & Sun 12 noon-11pm. Catering /
cheese. Recommended by the Michelin Guide            private functions available 24/7. 10 Gillespie
31 Listings and listed in the Best 5 Restaurants     Place, Edinburgh – 0131 281 05 26
by Peter Irvine/Scotland the Best. Open Mon-         – www.harajukukitchen.co.uk @Harajukukitchen
Thurs 12noon-2.30pm and 5.30pm-10pm. Fri &
                                                     Mediterranean
Sat 12noon-3pm and 5.30pm- 10.30pm. Closed
Sunday (open 7 days during August).                  Merienda – choose from 30-35 choices of
– 56 Broughton Street – 0131 557 1600                Mediterranean-inspired small plate dining. A
– www.lescargotbleu.co.uk/#welcome                   changing monthly menu comprises a range of
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