Written by locals! August 2018 The Leith Issue - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine

Page created by Clinton Cook
 
CONTINUE READING
Written by locals! August 2018 The Leith Issue - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
Written
www.bite-magazine.com
                            by
August 2018               locals!
The Leith Issue
Local • Independent • Award Winning
Written by locals! August 2018 The Leith Issue - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
8 8 B r u n t s fi e l d P l a c e
0131 629 6565

102 Constitution St
0131 629 1919
                                     FOLLOW US

Arch 15, East Market St
0131 629 1551

BOOK ONLINE - CHOPHOUSESTEAK.CO.UK
Written by locals! August 2018 The Leith Issue - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
In this issue
Cooked up by
Rachel Edwards
Tracy Griffen
Lea Harris
                                                                                         3
Lucy McGreal
                                  04 Mrs Bite's Foodie Q & A with Nigel Slater
Di Spencer                        05 Review Hawksmoor
Eleonora Vanello
Nikki Welch                       06 Review Mono
Sharon Wilson                     07 Review Bistro du Vin
                                  08 Review Dine – Market Menu
Front Cover
A traditional EH6 Herring Girl    09 Review Mrs Bite Heads to Leith
by Lydia Bourhill.
                                  10 Review Leith Chop House
                                  11 Review Steel Coulson Tap
                                  12 Leith Lover
                                  14 Review Roseleaf Bar Café
                                  15 Review Fishers
                                  16 Review Black Pig & Oyster
                                  17 Review Royal Yacht Brittannia
                                  19 Review The Fishmarket, Newhaven Harbour
                                  20 Cocktails Chillfest
                                  21 Cocktails Joie de Leith...
                                  22 Review Borough
                                  23 Wine Wine Festival Leith
                                  25 Off the Trolley Growing Your Own
                                  27 Food for Health with CNM Balsamic and
                                     Rosemary Grilled Peach Salad
                                  28 What’s in Season Sam Stead
                                     – My Food Hero
                                  29 Listings

                                 Publisher/Editor
                                 Sharon Wilson I 01383 616126 I M 07486 070333
                                 contact@bite-magazine.com I www.bite-magazine.com
                                 Design I Donna Earl I bite.design@mac.com
                                 © Bite Magazine 2018 – All items contained within
                                 this publication are copyright to Bite Publishing and
                                 cannot be taken or edited without the permission
                                 from the copyright holder.
                                 This magazine is printed on sustainable paper.
Written by locals! August 2018 The Leith Issue - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
Mrs Bite’s Foodie Q & A with Nigel Slater
4
    F
          ollowing its world premiere at The
          Lowry, Salford, in May, the stage
          adaption of Nigel Slater’s best-selling
    memoirs Toast is to be performed at the
    world-famous Edinburgh Festival Fringe as
    part of Traverse Festival 2018. Ahead of the
    show Mrs Bite asked Nigel Slater some foodie
    questions.
    Apart from Toast what is your
    favourite comfort food?
    Vanilla ice cream.
    If you could take one cheese to a                  What is your favourite restaurant in
    desert island what would it be?                    Edinburgh and why?
    I would probably take feta, because it marries     Too many wonderful places to single one out.
    perfectly with ripe sweet figs that I may find     I always seem to eat well here. With some of
    on my island. I could eat watermelon and feta      the best seafood in the world on the doorstep,
    every day.                                         I can’t fail to eat well.
    What is your favourite summer food/                And elsewhere?
    recipe?                                            I love the Wolseley on Piccadilly in London.
    A big, freshly cooked crab and a bowl of
                                                       What is your fave bar and why?
    mayonnaise.
                                                       I love the hidden gem that is Bramble. Great
    What is your idea of a romantic dinner             music, fabulous drinks, the best atmosphere.
    a deux and what would you drink?
                                                       Who would you most like to go out
    Dinner in a restaurant and Champagne always
                                                       drinking with and why?
    What would you pack for a picnic up                My eighteen year old self. I would have quite a
    Arthur’s Seat?                                     bit of advice for young Nigel.
    Pork pie, pickles and a big fruit cake. Food
                                                       What would order for your last meal?
    that will survive a good walk and arrive in fine
                                                       I would quite like the food of my childhood.
    fettle.
                                                       A big Sunday lunch with lots of roast potatoes
    What is your favourite food memory?                followed by jam roly poly
    Coming home from school on a winter’s day to
    find my mum had a tray of oat flapjack baking        Traverse Theatre, Edinburgh – Tuesday
    in the oven.                                         7 to Sunday 26 August 2018, (excluding
    What is your favourite pudding?                      13th & 20th). Times vary – please visit
    Christmas pudding. I could eat it every day of       website for full details, Tickets: From £15.
    the year.
Written by locals! August 2018 The Leith Issue - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
Review:      Hawksmoor Do the right thing
W
          hen fellow contributor                                   Hawksmoor blend Malbec             5
          the 'Go-Between' and                                     has prominent cherry on
          Mrs Bite were invited                                    first sip and is soon soft and
to Hawksmoor we suspected                                          velvety enough to effortlessly
an indulgent night in stylish                                      complement the steak.
surroundings.
                                                                    Lobster is seasonally succulent
The 185 cover restaurant is in                                      and sweet. On the side we
the vast former banking hall of                                     have frilly old fashioned
the Bank of Scotland which is                                       butter lettuce dressed with
Grade A Listed so original features like old       herbs. Also creamed spinach which is spiky
school parquet, leaded windows and marble          with tons of nutmeg which I dislike but the
have been retained whilst the addition of,         Go-Between begs to differ and mash and gravy
for example, understated fabric and art deco       which is truly sublime – buttery whipped Red
lamps, are sympathetic.                            Roosters, seasoning, thick sticky gravy.
The ceiling is reverentially high in this former   We are fit to bursting but Hawksmoor’s take
church to money; new skylights reveal clouds       on a cranachan and a pineapple and coconut
drifting above.                                    Pavlova somehow slip down.
Seated comfortably in a corner we ordered          The Go-Between’s canny eye spots BYOB
cocktails. Of course we did. I got in first with   Monday with £5 corkage and a Sunday roast
a Tom and Jerez from the ‘anti-fogmatic’           option for slow cooked prime beef with
selection of the list (early morning eye-          all the trimmings feeding 2-3 at £80 (we
openers). The mix of gin, pear, lemon, sherry,     hypothesise that if stretched to 4 this could
almond and garnish of Gordal olive was             be a steal).
impeccably delicious. The Go-Between
                                                   Hawksmoor clearly has an ethos which is to
however, had a brandy sour which neither
                                                   ‘try to do things right’; the website explains
of us liked. The apple brandy and lemon not
                                                   policy to sustainability, sourcing, charity and
being balanced by enough creamy egg white
                                                   gender pay. When it comes to the food this
to soften the drink’s acidity.
                                                   translates as no-nonsense British cooking done
Hand-dived scallops in Venus shells sourced        well. (S. Wilson)
from Guy Grieve come with a toasted herby
marinière crunch; heritage tomatoes on in-         Hawksmoor
house sourdough have plenty of heady basil         – 23 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA
and a whipped soft cheese.                         – 0131 526 4790

Rib-eye, lobster and béarnaise seem obvious        Opening hours
choices for mains. Beef is sourced from            Lunch: Mon-Fri 12 noon-2.30pm, Sat 12 noon-
Dovecot Farms (they supply Waitrose) and           3.30pm, Sun 12 noon-4pm. Dinner: Mon-Thu
is 35 day dry-aged. The flesh is deep ruby         5pm-9.30pm, Fri & Sat 5-9.30pm and Sun 5pm-
(cooked rare), buttery and aromatic. The           9pm. Bar open all day.
Written by locals! August 2018 The Leith Issue - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
Review:     Mono Not at all black and white
6
    E
           dinburgh is                                                      – Kante Sauvignon 2013
           currently a                                                      from Trentino, porto and
           dream for food                                                   ice wine.
    lovers with interesting
                                                                             I particularly appreciated
    restaurants opening
                                                                             the pigeon with salsa
    regularly in each corner of
                                                                             ghiotta (typically Umbrian
    the city.
                                                                             made with dripping, red
     A few months ago Mono                                                   wine, capers, lardo) and
    opened at the challenging                                                Umbrian lentils. The bird
    location of South Bridge and when I realised       meat normally tastes prominently of iron but
    it was an elegant Italian-inspired restaurant, a   here was very delicate. I enjoyed the idea
    table was booked and I counted sleeps like a       of serving the cheese platter as a dessert (in
    child dreaming of Christmas.                       Italy cheese is a side dish or starter) offering
                                                       gorgonzola ice cream accompanied by
    The restaurant spreads over two floors and
                                                       chocolate.
    has a retro Sixties-come-Scandi interior with a
    minimalist feel and lots of wood.                  I loved the ‘well of delicacy’ a narrow bowl
                                                       with green apple sorbet mixed with lemon
    Glasses of Prosecco in hand we were seated
                                                       balm and puffed rice that somehow reminded
    downstairs in front of the open kitchen where
                                                       us of Thai green spices and I admired the
    we could watch Chef Neil and his team cook.
                                                       boldness of creating a pudding with a green
    Our tasting menu captured the true spirit          olive sorbet and Campari foam.
    of Mono. All the dishes are rooted in Italian
                                                       At Mono I saw many beautifully presented
    culinary tradition: ‘panelle’ from Sicily
                                                       colourful dishes.
    (chickpea flours fritters), ‘ossobuco’ from
    Lombardy (cross-cut veal shanks), ‘pollo alla      It was a great experience and refreshing
    cacciatora’ from Tuscany (here revisited with      to welcome an accomplished fine dining
    monkfish) served with a twist.                     restaurant inspired by Italy (not France) for a
                                                       change. (E. Vanello)
    Flavours and mise en place are nicely complex
    and even a drizzle of oil can make all the
    difference to the eye and to the mouth. Chef       Mono Restaurant
    Zielinski previously worked at Atelier giving      – 85 South Bridge, Edinburgh, EH1 1HN
    him good credentials.                              – 0131 466 4726

    Kitchen staff includes a sous chef with a          Opening hours
    passion for foraging, a chef de partie who         Open 7 days a week
    is particularly strong in yeast matters and        Lunch 12 noon-2.30pm; Afternoon at Mono
    a sommelier who knew exactly the correct           (bookings essential) 2.30pm-4.00pm; Dinner
    drinks for us throughout our seven courses         5pm onwards
Written by locals! August 2018 The Leith Issue - Local Independent Award Winning - Bite Magazine
Review:      Bistro du Vin Unbuttoned and al fresco
'The Gascony Paradox'                                             crispy from being cooked in
                                                                                                       7
is the name given to                                              duck fat but this French version
phenomenon whereby                                                of ‘chips and cheese’ has just a
despite the large amounts                                         sprinkle of Gruyère.
of saturated fat eaten
                                                                  I have a glass of Minervois wine
by the French they have
                                                                  from the region of Languedoc
a very low incidence of
                                                                  and the black fruits are punchy.
heart disease.
                                                                  There is some redcurrant too –
Various theories attempt                                          think black and red wine gums.
to explain this including my favourite which
                                                     Desserts follow the unpretentious but
is that red wine ensures Gallic heart health by
                                                     indulgent theme. A milk chocolate mousse for
somehow counteracting the saturated fat.
                                                     Mr Bite is shamelessly large and topped with
Whatever the science, the French appear to           cream. And for me a baked St. Marcelin cheese
enjoy their food guilt-free and when Mr Bite         and sugary fruit fig roll to spread it on; I am
and I visited the sheltered, cosy courtyard          almost blushing now.
of Bistro du Vin we were encouraged by our
                                                     Mrs Bite has spent a fair bit of time in France
surroundings and the menu to adopt this
                                                     and menu items like pizza, steak haché with
unbuttoned attitude.
                                                     sauce poivre and salads recall everyday living.
To start we chose Blossom Tree (Carounn              This is authentic food found on any street in
Gin, elderflower cordial, plum sake, lemon           Le Sud. There are also Plats Principaux dishes
juice crème de Mure, soda water) and Apple           such as steak tartare, calves liver and fish as
& Ginger (Carounn Gin, ginger syrup, and             well as sharing platters such as fruits de mer.
juice) cocktails from the pop up Carounn Gin
                                                     The food at Bistro du Vin deserves to be
Bar which is in the courtyard until the end
                                                     enjoyed, washed down with lashings of good
of September. Then we ordered prawns with
                                                     wine and an enormous dose of Joie de Vivre!
aioli, pissadiliere pizza and pomme frites with
                                                     (S. Wilson)
pancetta and Gruyère.
                                                     Bistro Du Vin
Prawns are presented whole but they have             – 11 Bristo Pl, Edinburgh EH1 1EZ
been de-veined, shelled and beheaded so              – 0131 285 1479
you can enjoy them immediately without               – www.hotelduvin.com/locations/
the messy work. Pissadiliere is a flan of            edinburgh/bistro
caramelised onions and a regional speciality of
Nice. Du Vin's take is a slim, fired pizza base, a   Opening hours
spread of the sweet onions and a ratatouille-        Lunch: Mon-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm
inspired topping of bitter black olives, juicy       Sunday Brunch 12.30pm-4.00pm
peppers, watercress and vegetarian-style             Dinner: Mon-Thu 5.30pm-10.00pm; Fri-Sat
‘Parmesan’. The allumette cut chips are proper       5.30pm-10.30pm; Sun 6.00pm-9.30pm
Review:     Dine – Market Menu
8   Summer on our plates

    S
          tuart Muir is a talented                            Next for me was shoulder of lamb
          chef who attained a                                 which had been slow cooked until
          Michelin star aged just 23.                         it fell apart and then rolled back
    He cooks top notch seasonal fare                          together. An olive tapenade was a
    with skill and is passionate about                        surprisingly good accompaniment
    produce.                                                  and the briny, salty flavours of
                                                              the fruit and seasoned meat were
    So the Market Menu at Dine
                                                              balanced by fresh green tenderstem
    which offers 2 courses for £14.50
                                                              broccoli and sugar snaps. Both Kate
    and 3 for £19.50 inc. tea or coffee
                                                              and I commented on how vibrant
    is outrageously good value.
                                                              and crisp all the veg was.
    It was my friend Kate’s first visit
                                                              Mrs Bite’s first foodie love will
    and she appreciated the polished
                                                              always be the peach. So imagine
    classy surroundings where
                                                              how delighted I was when I spotted
    everything gleams and service is
                                                              peach tart on the menu after
    friendly and professional.
                                                              initially being distracted by the
    After lunch I asked Kate to send                          summer pudding. Pastry chef Nikita
    me her thoughts:                                          had made a pastel coloured mousse
                                                              airy as a cloud to sit on peach
    “My abiding memory is of
                                                              pieces in a light pastry shell. And if
    the scent of all the food. The
                                                    that wasn’t enough excitement there was ice
    smoked haddock fishcakes were so delicious
                                                    cream from Stewart Tower in Perthshire.
    and full of fish, the chicken supreme was
    moist and tender and so flavoursome with        Provenance has a special place on the menu at
    the buttered potatoes, green beans and          Dine with a map illustrating where all produce
    snap peas which were cooked to perfection.      is sourced before it is cooked with the utmost
    Summer pudding was light, sweet and zingy.      respect.
    The sweetness of the strawberries and the
                                                    Kate said that she would have no hesitation at
    sharpness of the other berries made it an
                                                    all in recommending Dine and I was pleased
    absolute delight and I didn’t want it to end”
                                                    she liked it as much as I do. (S. Wilson)
    But what about Mrs Bite. Currently obsessed
    with summer salads I couldn’t resist one        Dine
    featuring endive as you rarely see it in        – Saltire Court
    suburban shops. Aromatic peas were scattered    – 10 (1F) Cambridge Street, Edinburgh, EH1 2ED
    about the plate whilst little gem lettuce       – 0131 218 18 18
    and cherry tomatoes rubbed shoulders with       – restaurant@dine.scot
    sourdough croutons all under a light Caesar     – https://dineedinburgh.co.uk
    dressing. This dish was summer on a plate.
Mrs Bite Heads to Leith
Read all about it in the blue tinted pages                                                                  9
This month Mrs Bite is dusting off her slingbacks        mixing and preserving the juice with sugar.
and heading for gourmet food in Leith.                   It is the basis for a Gimlet of course and if

I
                                                         you read these pages carefully you will see a
   lived in EH6 for several years so it is close
                                                         Gimlets mentioned.
   to my heart but even closer to my belly
   and whether you are a local or a visitor              The Shore is home to two Michelin-starred
to Edinburgh I would urge you to hop on                  restaurants Tom Kitchin and Martin Wishart
a number 16 or 22 bus and explore one of                 but travel in any direction and you will trip
Edinburgh’s finest foodie quarters.                      over places to eat and drink.
On the way look out for the historic boundary            Mrs Bite has recently enjoyed fish ‘n’ chips,
between Leith and Edinburgh remembered                   oysters with bone marrow, eggs Benedict,
with a sign on The Bier Hoose Bar. You can               sourdough sandwiches, bao steamed buns,
spot it half way travelling down ‘the Walk’ on           fish bisques, salted caramel ice cream, wine,
the right. This used to be The Boundary Bar              champagne, beetroot smoothies, and tequila
which had a line running through it separating           kunis – and that was just last week!
Edinburgh and Leith. When the licensing laws
                                                                          There is a statue to Robert
in the city center determined that
                                                                          Burns on Bernard Street and
drinks sales stopped at 10pm –
                                                                          our national poet was no
customers could cross the line to
                                                                          stranger to indulgence. So dear
Leith inside the bar where drinking
                                                                          reader I will bid you ‘ae fond
was allowed until 10.30pm.
                                                                          kiss’ and leave you with his
Alight at the stunning Shore                                              tribute to our national dish.
area, once home to Scotland’s
most important port bringing
in, amongst many other goods,                                             Fair fa' your honest,
burgundy and gin. You can still                                           sonsie face,
find plenty of tipples to ‘douse                                          Great chieftain o' the
your thrapple’ (quench your                                               pudding-race!
thirst) from ales and craft beers to                                      Aboon them a' ye tak
cocktails, fine wines and whiskies,                                       your place,
to smoothies and juices.                                                  Painch, tripe, or thairm:
                                                                          Weel are ye wordy o'a grace
Leith was the home of Rose’s
                                                                          As lang's my arm.
Lime Cordial with the first factory
built on Commercial Street in                                             (Address to a Haggis,
1868. Limes were used to prevent                                          Robert Burns)
scurvy on ships and Mr Rose saw
                                          © Anne Burgess (cc-by-sa/2.0)
the marketing opportunity of
Review:     Leith Chop House Bar & butchery
10
     I
        n 2015 The Compass                                              where the controlled humidity
        Group in Edinburgh                                              and temperature breaks down
        opened Leith Chop                                               the enzymes producing tender
     House which was later                                              and boldly-flavoured prime
     followed by Chop Houses                                            cuts.
     in both Market Street and
                                                                        The Chop House then butcher
     Bruntsfield. A redundant
                                                                        and cook fillet, rib-eye,
     building in a dead spot of
                                                                        sirloin, rump and more over
     town was transformed into
                                                                        smouldering coals; big cuts
     a buzzing contemporary bar
                                                                        allow for caramelized and
     restaurant with 40 covers
                                                                        smoky charring on the outside
     and an interior, featuring
                                                                        whilst the inside remains juicy
     copper, brass, herringbone
                                                                        and tender.
     tiles and leather banquette
     seating.                                                           All that is left is the savouring
                                                                        of steaks with delicious sides
     The owners have kept
                                                                        such as buttered greens, beef
     things simple; cocktails,
                                                                        dripping mushrooms and fries,
     seafood, steak and pudding
                                                                        gem lettuce with whipped
     but all executed to high
                                                                        blue cheese – I am sure you
     standards.
                                                                        catch my drift. And don’t
     Thus, this modern steak                                            forget the sauces – béarnaise,
     house boasts premium beef                                          peppercorn, bone-marrow
     sourced locally, dry-aged                                          gravy, chimmichurri.
     and butchered in-house, and then cooked on
                                                        And talking of sauce cocktails are none too
     a charcoal grill. Sharing cuts Chateaubriand
                                                        shabby either. The Bloody Mary is a meal
     (a buttery, soft cut), Bone-in-a-Rib (shared
                                                        in itself comprising Bone Marrow Black
     rib-eye) Porterhouse (fillet, rump and sirloin)
                                                        Cow vodka, NoillyPrat dry vermouth, pink
     and Strip (a long cut of sirloin) enhance a core
                                                        peppercorn, sea salt & blue cheese olive.
     meaty menu.
                                                        (S. Wilson)
     Working predominantly with Shaws Fine
     Meats, Chop House also look for suppliers          Leith Chop House
     who tick boxes on animal welfare, provenance       – 102 Constitution Street, Leith,
     and quality such as Aberdeen Highland Beef         Edinburgh EH6 6AW
     who supply pedigree meat on a small scale          – 0131 629 1919
     along with Himalayan salt-aged Glenarm             – www.leithchophouse.co.uk
     Shorthorn from Ireland’s Hannan Meats.
                                                        Opening hours
     Meat is hung for 90 days in dry-ageing fridges     Mon-Fri 12 noon-late; Sat-Sun 10am-late
Review:     Steel Coulson Tap Never forget
                                                                                                      11
S
      teel Coulson Tap had                                           We were really enjoying
      been recommended                                               ourselves. Décor is cosy,
      to Mrs Bite by ‘folks                                          colourful and homely. Dogs
in the know’ and it had                                              are welcome, and you can
won Runner Up in the                                                 recharge your gadgets as
CAMRA Edinburgh and SE                                               well as yourself.
Scotland Cider Pub of the
                                                                      We ordered a sharing
Year 2018. Intrigued she
                                                                      platter of meat and cheese;
headed swiftly to Leith.
                                                                      fruity Somerset cheddar,
The ‘pouring today’ list                                              Welsh goats’ cheese,
was impressive. The idea of                                           crunchy cornichons,
pairing food with beer, as                                            rich chorizo, salami and
opposed to wine, has been                                             pastrami were variously
fermenting for a decade or                                            grazed on, mixed and
so but is reaching a head                                             munched along with
now with so many varied                                               oatcakes and toast.
beers available due to the                                            Pudding came in the shape
rise of craft brewing.                                                of small glasses of that
                                                                      marshmallow porter, ‘Stay
Steel Coulson’s selection extends to 17 varied
                                                  Puft’ again from Tiny Rebel.
cask, keg and ciders on tap. They hail from
around the corner to across the UK. So there      There is a beautiful blue and green stain
is an IPA from Pilot, Pale Ale from South         glass door depicting an elephant. The pub’s
Queensferry and an irresistible roasted s’mores   motto is ‘never forget’ and Steel Coulson’
Porter from Tiny Rebel Brewery Newport.           was actually a brewery in Abbeyhill until the
                                                  Sixties. Steel They hope to revive the heritage
But let’s not get ahead of ourselves; first up
                                                  and intend to install their own nano-brewery
something to douse the thrapple and to pair
                                                  in due course.
with ‘The Best Scotch Egg Ever’. Mrs Bite
chose The Hoppy Botanist from Campervan           This bar is unique in Leith and worth a trip too.
tasting of rhubarb and custard and fruit salad    If you like beer it’s a must. (S.Wilson)
chews. Simone had Pearescope, a juicy Perry
from Tiny Rebel. Scotch Eggs came rolled          Steel Coulson Tap
in Stornoway Black Pudding and for the            – 24 Henderson Street, Leith, Edinburgh.
vegetarians, chick pea. Orange yolks indicated    – 0131 467 2479
good quality eggs and Simone commented
that although the black pudding was delicious     Opening hours
it didn’t overwhelm. I also drank a lemon         Mon-Thu 4pm-11pm (Quiz Tues 7.30pm);
gose ‘Sleeping Lemons’ from the Wild Beer         Fri 4pm-Midnight; Sat Noon-Midnight;
Company.                                          Sun Noon-11pm
Leith Lover
12   Bite asked Lucy McGreal of Edinburgh Food Tours to write a piece for this
     issue explaining why she loves the Leith Foodie Scene

                                                                                                  By en:User:Zaian - Transferred from
                                                                                                  en.wikipedia, Public Domain
     "Let's head down to Leith" are the first words    produce and will talk about it forever.
     I utter when someone I know visits and they
                                                       You may want to experience the traditional
     want some good local produce in a place
                                                       Scottish cuisine when visiting but Leith dares
     buzzing with atmosphere. It became a regular
                                                       your palette to take one step further and
     occurrence accompanying visitors and locals
                                                       experience what else can be done with good
     to what is a haven for good quality food and
                                                       quality Fish, locally grown vegetables, meat
     drink. 'Taste Leith' was born and I gathered      and drink, inspired from a diverse selection
     local producers with their passion and Leith      of communities from around the globe. The
     'Persevere' attitude and created a tour around    one place that you can experience all of this
     what I believe to be an all-round culinary        in one go is the Leith Market at Dock place
     experience.                                       every Saturday Morning. This is a popular spot
     Leith has placed itself highly on the food        on our Tour as you not only get to taste but
     map for several years and more so the past        to learn where it has come from and who has
     few. With locals escaping the hustle and          made it. It is a market that celebrates Leith,
     bustle of Edinburgh they come together as a       inviting producers from all over Scotland and
     community to appreciate good Scottish and         beyond, which change up every weekend, to
     International produce. As you dine in the local   showcase their unique produce.
     micro-roastery Williams and Johnson you are       Another exciting development is the
     surrounding by a passionate crowd of aspiring     collaboration of microbreweries and local
     coffee lovers wanting to ensure that you          food producers. Campervan brewery now
     drink coffee that has been made knowing the       open their tap room at the Bonnington
     story of where it has come from. This is what     business centre on Jane street to the public,
     I love about Leith, that the people know their    inviting them in to have a drink of the recently
Win a Bottle of Leith Gin
                                        After falling out
                                        of fashion during
                                                                                               13
                                        the 1900s, gin
                                        has surged back
                                        into popularity
                                        and Leith's 'big
                                        sister', Edinburgh,
                                        apparently
                                        consumes more
                                        gin per head of
                                        population than
                                        any other city in
                                        the world.
Paul Gibson of The Campervan Brewery.   Leith Gin has put the city’s historic port back on
                                        the gin map of Scotland with their deliciously
                                        smooth London-Dry style spirit which
brewed beer made locally, literally     encapsulates the irrepressible ‘Joie de Leith’.
on the doorstep. Step inside and        Angelica gives Leith Gin a smooth, silky mouth
immediately feel welcomed,              feel which is good for a perfect serve G&T with
surrounded by locals and beer lovers    a premium effervescent tonic and chunks of ice.
you will also get the chance to buy     Alternatively citrus and tropical notes such as
bread and Scones handmade by the        lime, orange, liquorice, coconut and kiwi make
delicious Riddle me Rye or tickle       it ideal for various signature cocktails such as a
your taste buds with Aye Pickled’s      Gimlet, Collins of Sunshine in Leith.
fermented vegetables and my
favourite the Thai Shallots. Again,     Leith Gin is giving away one bottle to a lucky
these are all local people making       Bite reader. To win please email contact@bite-
good local food and supporting          magazine.com and tell us how you would enjoy
fellow local producers.                 your bottle of 'Joie de Leith'! Closing date is
                                        August 21st.
You can come on a tour with us at
www.edinburghfoodtours.co.uk and
get an introduction of what is down     T’s & C’s – All entrants must be over 18. Winner may
there. If you are a Foodie, local or    be required to verify proof of age. By entering the
tourist a day in Leith would not        competition you agree your name may be published
disappoint your appetite, and you       by Leith Gin and Bite Magazine across Social Media
                                        platforms and in print, only if you are our winner.
come away feeling how it is to be
a 'Leither' as every culinary diverse   Winners of 700ml bottle of Leith Gin will be chosen
establishment you visit gives you a     by Leith Gin. No substitute or cash alternative is
warm welcome. (L. McGreal)              available. Leith Gin's decision is final.
Review:     Roseleaf Bar Café
14   Persevere and the 'Pot-tail'

     T
             he gentrification of Leith failed in
             the early noughties. Ocean Terminal
             shopping centre was built in 2001
     joining the Newkirkgate (new in the sixties),
     Martin Wishart was awarded a Michelin Star in
     the same year and penthouses were built not
     far from the 'banana flats' (Sick Boy's home in                   with their friends or with their
     Irvine Welsh's Trainspotting). But something                      granny and feel at home.
     jarred. Waterfront restaurants sat near spit 'n'
                                                                        Roseleaf is still serving pot-
     sawdust howffs and Leith was never going to
                                                                        tails along with an enormous
     be an exclusive yuppie paradise; yuppies and
                                                                        range of spirits, juices,
     style bars were well on their way out anyway.
                                                                        smoothies, teas coffees, wines,
     What happened instead was a crop of hipster                        ales. Note they have also
     young things (before the word hipster existed)     just gone freehold which means they will be
     started to cater for a like-minded upcoming        stocking local beers on tap anytime soon.
     clientele that wanted a new culinary offering
                                                        There is also a seasonal menu and specials
     without dissing Leith's colourful heritage in
                                                        written on a blackboard at the door. (Top tip:
     the process.
                                                        try the Cullen Skink or Eggs Benedict).
     Enter stage right (starboard) Roseleaf Bar Café
                                                        Above this board, etched in the sandstone is
     which has just celebrated its 11th birthday and
                                                        the seal of the ancient burgh, a shield bearing
     perches above the Water of Leith and the
                                                        a galleon on the sea and the motto Persevere.
     cobbled streets of The Shore.
                                                        Leith's hospitality trade have persevered and
     In 2007 Lyn & Jonny Kane polished up what
                                                        this maritime port is presently a must visit
     was previously The Black Swan. They took a
                                                        foodie hotspot; Roseleaf was one of the
     traditional old building and added some quirky
                                                        pioneers. (S. Wilson)
     fairy dust in the form of vintage crockery and
     glassware, comfy but mismatched chairs and          Pot-tails
     menus inside copies of National Geographic          Rose Garden – Hendricks, freshly juiced
     Magazine.                                           apples, Miclo rose liqueur & cucumber.
     Then there were the Mad Hatters Tea Parties         Mad-Hatter – Koko Kanu coconut rum, our
     serving signature 'pot-tails' – cocktails served    own fiery ginger beer & fresh lime.
     in bone china teapots and a random selection
     of hats to wear (who doesn't love a hat).          Roseleaf Bar Café
     This was all done with rosy tongue-in-cheek        – 23-24 Sandport Pl, Edinburgh EH6 6EW
     'tude which struck exactly the right 'not too      – 0131 476 5268
     uppity' tone. Leithers could visit Roseleaf        – Open 7 days 10am-1am
Review:      Fishers Sole of the city
                                                                                                         15

O
        n its website, Fishers Leith claims to        I usually opt for a simpler fillet, I certainly
        be "the last word in Edinburgh's finest       did not regret my choice as the fish fell off
        casual dining for the last 20 years". Its     the bones without effort and melted in the
location, in a 17th-century watchtower, right         mouth. It was served with smoked salmon,
on the Shore in Leith, is certainly promising. I      lemon & tarragon butter and buttery new
don't know if there has ever been any research        potatoes. My usually fish-skeptical dining
into whether seafood actually tastes better in        partner delightedly wolfed down the hake
close proximity to water, but I find a view of        with clams and samphire in a cider cream
boats from the window always helps.                   sauce.
The restaurant is small and surprisingly, for a       The sticky toffee pudding and hazelnut
Wednesday night, bustling with happy diners.          brownie, perhaps slightly heavy choices to
That thing of legend, the Scottish Summer,            end the meal, were both excellent, though the
was in full swing and spirits were high. The          brownie might have been easier to eat if the
place is popular with tourists it seems, the          hazelnuts were chopped rather than whole.
voices around us came in various different
                                                      The sun is currently shining on Edinburgh, in
languages and accents, and we were impressed
                                                      both a meteorological and culinary sense.
to see the friendly waitress conversing easily
                                                      At a time when it seems a fantastic new
in French with the table next to ours.
                                                      restaurant is opening in the city every week, it
To start, I couldn't resist the classic: fat, juicy   is important not to forget those eateries like
Shetland mussels steamed in white wine,               Fishers that have stood the test of time and
cream and garlic, though the squid salad              consistently impress. (D. Spencer)
was apparently also delicious and perfectly
balanced with the smoky chorizo.                      Fishers Leith
For main course, I was torn between a fillet          – 1 The Shore, Edinburgh EH6 6QW
of plaice and the whole lemon sole. I was             – 0131 554 5666
encouraged by our waiter to go for the sole           – www.fishersrestaurants.co.uk/fishers-leith/
as this seems to be a signature dish for the          Opening hours
restaurant and his father's favourite. Although       Mon-Sat 12pm - Late; Sun 12:30pm - Late
Review:       Black Pig & Oyster
16   An Iberian adventure with the ‘Queen of Leith’ Mary Moriarty

     A
             lazy long lunch is up there                             Highlights were the vegetarian
             with my favourite indulgent                             Paella Croquettes with
             pleasures, and Leith is                                 strawberry gazpacho, Salt
     absolutely brimming with eateries                               and Pepper Calamari that we
     that serve food all day. New kid                                decided was definitely finger
     on the Commercial Quay block is                                 food, the succulent seared King
     Black Pig and Oyster, a family-run                              Scallops served in a shell (Mrs
     enterprise, originally established in                           Bite would approve). The most
     Madeira.                                                        special dish of all, hands down,
                                                                     was the Black Pig & Oyster. A
     As I awaited my dining partner
                                                                     dish so special the restaurant is
     and Leither gentry to arrive, Mary
                                                                     named after it. Owner Michelle
     Moriarty (famous as ex-publican of
                                                                     had previously enlightened me
     the Port O’ Leith, she’s seen it all), I
                                                                     on the secret of acorn-guzzling
     chatted with owner Michelle who
                                                                     Iberian black pigs, and although
     enthused about the provenance
                                                                     I’m not usually a pork lover,
     of their Iberian black pig. They
                                                                     it was as good as promised, a
     have been sourcing from the same
                                                                     top-notch steak. The tempura
     Spanish farm for over twenty years,
                                                                     encrusted oyster to accompany
     and swear it’s as good as fillet steak
                                                                     it was an unexpected delight.
     (it is, but more on that later). Mary
     had been patiently waiting outside,                               A seasonal Eton Mess with
     and found her way in to the sunny                                 fresh raspberries finished us
     conservatory.                                                     off, and us Leithers new and
                                                                       old went home for a much-
     As it was a Thursday, we had the
                                                                       needed afternoon kip. Mary’s
     Thursday Tapas Menu. As the wee
                                                       enthusiastic review was simply “an absolutely
     dishes arrived and the wine flowed Mary and
                                                       fabulous feast – what a treat!” The best kind
     I blethered about her memories of Leith. The
                                                       of lunch. Good company, excellent food and
     food has always been good in Edinburgh’s
                                                       super friendly family service. (T. Griffen)
     port, but we both agreed that recently there
     has been a seismic shift to the exceptional.
                                                       Black Pig & Oyster
     Eight small dishes were delivered one after       – 82 Commercial Quay, Leith, EH6 6LX
     the other, beautifully presented with the         – www.blackpigandoysteredinburgh.com
     high standard of a fancy tasting menu albeit
     at refreshingly ‘Leith’ prices. £35 per couple,   Opening hours
     includes eight generous tapas plus a bottle of    Tue-Thu 12pm-11pm, Fri-Sat 12pm-11.30pm;
     vino to enjoy with them.                          closed Sun & Mon
Review:      Royal Yacht Brittannia
Cream Tea with Royal Connections                                                                       17

I
   t seems fitting that the Royal Yacht
   Britannia is moored in Scotland after her
   decommission in 1997; she was, after all,
built at a shipyard in Clydebank in the early
‘50s.
We made a beeline for the Royal Deck Tea
Room. Protected from the chilly breeze
whipping across the Forth (tinged with a bit
of haar), we sat watching seabirds skim above
the dock with views across the steel blue
waters to Fife. In the near distance, a solitary
figure (a sculpture by Antony Gormley) stands
sentinel at the end of a derelict pier. Sitting in
                                                     than the traditional almond slivers. My scone
the elegance of a bygone era, you can imagine
                                                     is nicely proportioned with evenly distributed
the young princes running around the veranda
                                                     sultanas but could have done with a little
deck below.
                                                     longer in the oven.
We had our eyes focused on the cream tea
                                                     The tearoom isn't accessible unless you are
– a sandwich, scone or a slice of cake, a glass
                                                     visiting the yacht but wandering around
of Les Chaberts Sparkling Britannia Rosé and
                                                     the royal boat does give you an insight to
a pot of tea or coffee. Smoked salmon from
                                                     the way it was run, from the cramped staff
Shetland goes well with pink bubbles, so that
                                                     quarters, to the laundry and, of course, the
was my choice and egg mayo for the man. I'm
                                                     state apartments where the Queen would
not one to turn my nose up to a scone with
                                                     eat, sleep, entertain her guests, and where the
jam and cream, while he's partial to the odd
                                                     royal grandchildren would play. (L. Harris)
slice of fruitcake, so the Dundee was right
up his street! He could have gone for lemon
drizzle, Victoria sponge, chocolate or carrot        The Royal Yacht Britannia
cake.                                                – Ocean Terminal, Leith, EH6 6JJ
                                                     – 0131 555 5566
Generously filled sandwiches are freshly made        – enquiries@tryb.co.uk
with a flavoursome, seeded bread served with
crisps and a salad garnish. We both have tea;        Opening hours
Assam for me and the Famous Edinburgh for            Jan-Mar, Nov-Dec 10.30am-4.00pm
him; both are served in silver-plated teapots.       Apr-Sept 10.00am-4.45pm
The Dundee cake is crammed with fruit but is         Oct 10.00am-4.30pm
unusually decorated with chopped nuts rather         Please note they do not take reservations.
£5 for this
cocktail with
 this advert
or a copy of
    Bite!

                Orange Espresso Martini
                25ml Smirnoff No 21
                12.5ml Soiree Orange Liqueur
                12.5ml Kahlua
                Shaken and strained into a cocktail coupe and
                garnished with orange twist & coffee beans.

                8 Trafalgar Street, Edinburgh EH6 4DG
                0131 555 6777 • Open from 4pm Mon-Thu,
                12 noon Fri & Sat and 3pm Sun
The Fishmarket, Newhaven
Review:

Harbour Fish ‘n’ Chips in EH6                                                                      19

T
      here are joys to be had when dining
      alone. It's always nice to share food
      and drink but sometimes pleasing
yourself has its rewards. When I indulge this
pastime though I am always reminded of a
very entertaining read – Garlic and Sapphires
by Ruth Reichl.
The book is an account of the various guises
Reichl employed to hide her identity as
restaurant critic for the New York Times, the
aim being to see how different people were
treated in posh restaurants.
                                                complement to the food, not too much to be
A visit to The Tavern on the Green in NYC as    competition to the Sarson’s. They sell Cava
a badly dressed, ill groomed timid spinster     too as well as Champagne and Prosecco.
called ‘Betty’ saw snail-like service and a
                                                The branded paper my meal comes on, rips
freezing seat next to the window.
                                                when you cut your fish and is a slight nuisance
So I am always alert to how I am treated as     but traditional mushy peas, soft drinks and
a lone middle-aged female diner. My best        ice cream as well as fizz, local beer, cider and
experience was at Cucina where the waiters      spirits all please. If you want to experience
fluttered around me making me comfortable       a Scottish fish supper the quality is here, the
all evening. But they are Italian.              concept is brought up-to-date and the setting
                                                of Newhaven Harbour is charming. You can
And thus I find myself at The Fishmarket
                                                takeaway or eat outside too.
Newhaven which is the ‘chippie’ brainchild of
Roy Brett Seafood chef from Ondine and Gary     I even spot a Seaside Gimlet cocktail being
Welch fishmonger.                               advertised on the way out and am tempted to
                                                sit back down.
Slightly disturbing is that I seem to have
progressed from ‘Madam’ to ‘Dear’ but I         Another time though. I don’t want to be the
decide to put that down to the waitress's       lonely female lush in the corner. (S. Wilson)
youth rather than my demise.
Anyway, I am treated very well at The           The Fishmarket
Fishmarket, service is attentive and the food   – 23a Pier Place, Newhaven, Edinburgh EH6 4LP
tasty. I choose a small haddock, chips and      – 0131 552 8262
garlic mayo. A dry Rose Gamay from the          Opening hours
Loire has enough acidity to be a gluggable      11am to 10pm every day
Cocktails:      ChillFest Cocktails in Leith
20
     A
            ugust sees an                                              42 a not-for-profit gym &
            independent                                                wellness centre in Leith
            event running in                                           focusing on strengthening
     Leith which is designed to                                        the connection between
     showcase the area’s bars.                                         mental health and physical
                                                                       fitness and Citadel Youth
     ChillFest is an initiative
                                                                       Centre which provides the
     that allows you to buy
                                                                       young people of Leith with
     wristbands for £5 and on
                                                                       learning, leisure, friendship
     showing it to the bartender
                                                                       and support services.
     in a participating bar
     you will be entitled to a                                        Partner bars include Roseleaf
     signature cocktail for just £5.                                  Bar Café, Miss Woo’s, Boda,
     You can also look out for       Love Thy Nobles by Nobles        Sofi’s, Malmaison, Finn &
     mixology masterclasses, live                                  Bear, Joseph Pearce, Lioness
     music, DJs and talks.                                         of Leith, Victoria, The Granary,
                                                      Nobles, Tapa, Toast, The Barologist, The Black
     60% of the proceeds from the wristbands
                                                      Fox and Woodland Creatures.
     will go to two Leith-based charities, Projekt
Cocktails:     Joie de Leith…
                                                                                                       21
L
     eith’s heritage includes importing
     and producing gin and last year Leith
     Gin was launched putting a local gin
company back in the port’s spotlight.
It has made quite a splash and is currently a
finalist in the London Dry category for the
Scottish Gin Awards 2018 with the winner to
be announced in September.
The branding nods to Leith’s heritage and a
slimline redesigned bottle is now ‘beach ready’
for summer cocktails.                             Leith Gin are giving our Bite readers an
It has a London-Dry style and is suggested as     exclusive 10% off 700ml bottle of Leith Gin,
a base for a classic Gimlet, a Leith Collins or   plus free UK P&P. Simply go to
the signature Sunshine in Leith. Of course you    www.leithgin.com and enter BITE10 which is
could also enjoy perfectly served with ice and    your Discount Code. Offer is valid until August
effervescent tonic.                               30th and T’s & C’s apply.

Leith Gimlet
75ml Leith Gin                                       Congratulations to Leith Gin on their recent
7.5ml freshly squeezed lime juice                    awards. Leith Gin won Silver in the recent
37.5ml Rose's lime cordial                           Scottish Field Gin Challenge under £30 category
                                                     and also won Silver in the highly prestigious
Shake with ice and fine strain into a chilled        International Wine & Spirits Competition 2018.
glass. Garnish with a Maraschino cherry.             Great news for a local company.
Leith Collins (pictured)
50ml Leith Gin
25ml fresh pressed lemon
25ml camomile syrup
25ml pressed pink grapefruit
Shake and top with soda.
Sunshine in Leith
50ml Leith Gin
50ml orange juice
3 drops of Angostura
Top up with Fever Tree Sicilian lemonade.
Build in a tall glass over cubed ice. Garnish
with a slice of lemon.
Review:      Borough In the neighburhood
22
     D
              arren Murray’s fish                                        nasturtium and a black olive
              croquette is a thing                                       tapenade from a summer
              of beauty. Toasted                                         menu which reads like a roll
     to a golden crumb it sits on a                                      call of the season’s best –
     shimmery earthenware plate                                          mackerel, green strawberry,
     and is gilded with squirts of                                       peas, lamb, summer leaves,
     mayo and lemony cream. It                                           baby gem, gooseberry, mint.
     would be a shame to eat it if
                                                                         Everything was vibrant and
     it weren’t so darn delicious
                                                                         fresh and tantalising.
     and easily devoured.
                                                                         The liquid options merely
     New to Leith, Borough’s
                                                                         add to the temptations.
     menu in the words of
     Head Chef Darren: "foregoes the rigidity of a      Twenty wines are available by the glass and
     tasting-style format or even the constraints       Restaurant Manager Archie Kyle, formerly
     of ‘starters, mains, desserts’, instead offering   of Fishers in the City says they have been
     a flexible selection of savoury and sweet          carefully selected to suit everyone’s taste from
     selection plates that are ingredient and           a New Zealand Pinot Gris to Monetpulicano
     flavour-forward."                                  d’Abruzzo.
     So you can go in for a bite when passing or        Mrs Bite very much enjoyed the clean crisp
     stay longer for something more substantial         LaCourte Godbillon Brut Nature 50% Pinot
     like Sirloin or Monkfish. And thus Borough         50% Chardonnay as well as the liberally
     sets itself apart from the award-winning           poured 85% Pinot Noir 15% Chardonnay
     Norn, its former self. Bite loved Norn but         expression; from Reims or course via Terroir
     the restaurant’s former and current owner          Wines.
     comments ‘that has been done now and we
                                                        Mr Bite drank Local Motive from Fallen
     wanted to move forward’.
                                                        Brewery. The spirits list has some very
     With a voracious Edinburgh market always           interesting offerings indeed including rums and
     nosing out the new this seems like a smart         gins that were new to us. It is a Brooklyn Gin
     move.                                              that forms the basis for the Borough Brooklyn
                                                        Negroni.
     Located in that tricky spot between North
     Junction Street and The Shore hopefully            There is much left to taste from the menu at
     Borough will become a destination eatery           Borough and I suspect it’s going to be good.
     as well as a handy pit stop. The food Mr and       (S. Wilson)
     Mrs Bite sampled on the opening night would
                                                        Borough
     certainly justify this.
                                                        – 50-54 Henderson Street, Leith,
     Apart from ‘that croquette’ we tasted beef         Edinburgh, EH6 6DE
     tartare and a pretty courgette tart with           – 0131 629 2525
Wine:    Wine Festival Leith
                                                                                                       23
T
       he joy of escaping to Leith is not to        In the white corner:
       be underestimated, especially during
                                                    Godello, Mara Martin
       the madness of the festival season.
                                                    (Toast by the bottle)
Moreover, this year some of the festival has
decamped to Edinburgh’s historic port with          A very reasonably priced bottle of Godello, a
the Edinburgh International Festival’s new          Spanish grape that invokes refreshing seaside
strand of music events ‘Light on the Shore’ at      scenes, not just with the jaunty stripes on
Leith Theatre.                                      the label, but also its breezy, fresh, mouth-
                                                    watering character. Think green apples and
The August edition of this wine column is
                                                    a bit of sea grass, blossom and sea breeze
often dedicated to the best wine from plastic
                                                    blowing in. Great shared with a friend and
cups on your Festival travels, or bottles to
                                                    their fish platter.
be stashed in the fridge for when you have
visitors to entertain. However, this year we        Campo Flores, Verdejo
can celebrate some wines that you can enjoy,        (Finn and Bear by the glass)
from a glass, before or after a gig on the shore.
                                                    An easy drinking, fresh and bright white (also
Newish to the scene are both Toast wine café        from Spain) made with organic grapes. It’s
and Finn and Bear, both open all day and into       actually a blend of Verdejo and Sauvignon
the evening, both offering a great range of         Blanc which gives a fragrant, almost herbal,
food options from brunch to bar snacks to           edge to the familiar tropical and citrus tang of
dinner. But this is about the wine… Both look       sauvignon. Just watch out, it slips down easily!
out onto the water and offer a rather more
                                                    In the red corner:
civilised approach to festival drinking.
                                                    Mencia, Petit Pittacum
                                                    Another Spanish gem from northern Spain,
                                                    this time a cool and crunchy red, perfect for
                                                    nibbling with rather than full blown meals.
                                                    Mencia is the grape, which you barely see
                                                    anywhere else in the world. On the berry scale
                                                    it’s more cranberry than blackberry, less dense
                                                    and with a bit of tang, great with cold meats
                                                    and can be served cool. (N. Welch)

                                                      You can meet Nikki talking about her
                                                      new beer book at the Edinburgh Book
                                                      Festival on the 23rd August. Tickets at
                                                      edbookfest.co.uk
a room in leith
     seafood and game bistro bar
                                 www.aroomin.co.uk
                           Tel: (0131) 554 7427 (option 1)
                        1a Dock Place, Edinburgh, EH6 6LU

Edinburgh Food Tours
A four hour tour of food and drink in the old maritime centre of Edinburgh, Leith.
All tours take place on a Saturday and start at 10.30am.
We start the journey at Leith Market at Dock Place, meeting local producers,
visiting some of Leith's eating and drinking establishments, and finishing up on
the busy Leith Walk at a top restaurant.
As you will be eating and drinking over 20 of
some of the best local produce you will not
need to have breakfast before you come!
Please enquire at
info@edinburghfoodtours.co.uk.
Or check our website
www.edinburghfoodtours.com
for prices and further information.
Off the Trolley:       Growing Your Own
                                                                                                       25

A
        ugust is a month when Edinburgh            waste nothing, and there’s no better way
        divides. Locals and tourists. Festival     to use up spare fruit or veg than in a cake.
        lovers and haters. Those handing out       Many times I’ve benefited from friends’ green
flyers and those trying hard to avoid them. In     thumbs and sweet teeth after a surprise
the midst of the city centre, it can be hard to    bounty.
believe that pockets of normality still exist      But gardens can be hard to come by in Leith.
where the festival hasn’t yet reached.             While many tenements have a shared green,
But while libraries, pubs, and even cycle          there’s not always space for a private raised
paths may have become ‘venues’, there are          bed. If you don’t have your own garden, there
still pockets of peace to be found, even in        are of course council allotments and 13-19
Leith (a former festival oasis, now with a full    August is National Allotments week. This year
programme of its own). My EH6 garden is in         the theme is growing your own food, with the
its first season, bursting with bees, birds, and   encouragement that everyone try growing
a small veg patch under the direction of my        food in some way. A lack of garden may mean
daughter. She has planted carrots, radishes,       the apple orchard is an impossibility, but
and lettuce in hope of attracting bunnies to       organisers say that even a pot of rosemary on
the neighbourhood. But our ultimate plan           the windowsill “can help people on allotment
is to bake chocolate courgette cakes with          waiting lists hone their horticultural skills
courgettes we have grown, and so we also           and raises awareness for children of how and
have three very happy plants blooming.             where their food is produced.” So while the
                                                   waitlists might be long (I’m currently five years
Growing your own fruit and veg is excellent        into a projected nine year wait), we can all try
inspiration for a baker. A surplus of rhubarb,     growing our own with the space we have, and
yellow plums, even parsnips makes the              eating the results. And that pot of rosemary?
vegetable grower hunt for creative recipes.        Delicious in shortbread, with a little bit of
The whole ethos of growing your own is to          honey. (R. Edwards)
CNM                                 COLLEGE OF
                                    NATUROPATHIC MEDICINE
 Training Successful Practitioners

Turn your passion for Nutrition into a career!

Become a Nutritional Therapist
 through part-time study in Edinburgh with CNM, the UK’s
 leading training provider in natural health
                                                                                             R PLACE:
 Find out more at one of our free-to-                                           RESERVE YOU
                                                                                             athy-uk.com
 attend Open Evenings in Edinburgh.                                             www.naturop
 Next dates: 4th August, 6th September                                            01342 410 505

Fermented Foods,
Prebiotics &
Probiotics
We’ve got what you need to
get your gut in good health
                                                                                Vegetarian        •   Vegan • Fairtrade • Organic
                                                                                Gluten-free           •Wheat-free • Special diet

 Open 7 days a week, all year round
    37 Broughton Street Edinburgh EH1 3JU | 8 Brougham Street Edinburgh EH3 9JH
         Real Foods established 1963. Shipping worldwide since 1975 • Importers, manufacturers & international distributors
Food for Health with CNM:

Balsamic and Rosemary                                                                                     27
Grilled Peach Salad
Ingredients
(serves 2-4)
2 large peaches
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 packed cups of rocket
1.5 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp fresh rosemary, finely
chopped
1/2 a large red onion, finely sliced
1/4 cup of almonds, chopped
A generous handful of green beans
sea salt
black pepper

To make
• Add the beans (tough ends removed) to a               over any remaining marinade. Grill the peach
  pan of salted boiling water and cook for 4-6          slices for 3 minutes until the oil and balsamic
  minutes until slightly crisp. Drain and reserve.      begins to bubble.
• Peel and slice the peaches into thick wedges        • Add the sliced onion to a large serving bowl
  and put in a mixing bowl.                             along with the cooked green beans and
• Add to the bowl 1 tbsp each of chopped                rocket. Season to taste and toss to combine.
  rosemary, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Toss      • Add the grilled peaches to the bowl, gently
  to combine. Marinate for 15 minutes.                  stirring them through.
• Add the chopped almonds to a dry frying pan         • Drizzle the salad with the remaining olive oil
  over a low heat. Toast gently for 4 minutes           and balsamic vinegar. Scatter with the toasted
  then remove from the heat.                            almonds to serve.
• Heat a grill to high and arrange the marinated
                                                      CNM recommends the use of organic ingredients.
  peaches across a foil covered grill tray. Brush

 Recipe from the CNM Natural Chef Kitchen at CNM (College of Naturopathic Medicine).

 Find out about training with CNM Edinburgh for a career in Naturopathic Nutritional Therapy by
 attending one of CNM’s free-to-attend Open Events. Next dates in Edinburgh: 4th August, 6th September.
 For details visit www.naturopathy-uk.com or call 01342 410 505.
What's in Season: Sam Stead                                                     Lea's Failproof
                                                                                        Yorkshire Pudding
28      – My Food Hero                                                                  Equal measures of

        T
                                                                                        (I use a ramekin):
              his month my Virgo isn't a chef or                                        Plain flour
              a cook; he was a butcher by trade.                                        Eggs
              Scottish? No. Heard of him? No.                                           Milk
        His name? Sam Stead – my dad! He was                                            Pinch of salt
        the most influential person in my life                                          Oil for baking tin
        when I started cooking.
        A jovial, rotund, bald Yorkshireman, he                                         Method
        taught me the basics that developed into my passion for food.
        At four years old, under his watchful eye, I was baking jam tarts               • Tip flour, eggs, milk
        and fairy cakes, kneeling at the battered kitchen table.                          and salt into a bowl.
                                                                                          Beat viciously, I do.
        With asbestos fingers, he'd grab cake tins from the oven without
        oven gloves. He was hard working with long hours spent in                       • Heat the oil in a tin
        the shop, but he took time to show me how to crack an egg,                        in a pre-heated oven
        how to measure, and how to make a Yorkshire pud. The latter                       220oC/Fan 200oC
        evaded me for years. He despaired, I'm sure; my yorkies were flat                 /Gas 7 until it's
        baked pancakes. In my teens, we did an experiment – the same                      smoking like dragons
        recipe, the same ingredients. I followed his instructions like an                 breath.
        apprentice. Smouldering tins hissed as we poured our batters in;                • Tip in the batter; it
        both on the same shelf in the oven. Twenty minutes later, we                      will certainly spit at
        apprehensively opened the oven door. What greeted us? One                         you.
        beautifully risen, golden pudding and an abomination. At this
        point, dad was wondering if I had any northern blood running                    • Throw in the oven for
        through my veins. I bit back tears of frustration, but he wasn't                  20-25 mins.
        having any of that – a hug, a smile, a kiss on the top of my head,              Serve with whatever you
        whispering, "Better luck next time."                                            fancy – roast, sausages,
        He's been gone a long time, but he'd be pleased to know I've                    gravy, or even jam!
        conquered the failure. So, dad, if you were still with us, on the
        3rd September you would have had a Yorkshire pudding to be
        proud of! (L. Harris)

        Lea writes OfftheEatenTrack.wordpress.com
        @BakersBunny on       and

What else is in my basket?
Rabbit, wood pigeon, grouse, hare, red deer, grey mullet, John Dory, skate, wild sea bass, wild trout, scallops, crab,
langoustine, French beans, kohlrabi, sweetcorn, artichokes, chicory, courgettes, runner beans, shallots, apricots,
nectarines, damsons, greengages, loganberries.
Listings
                                                                                                            29
Restaurants                                           even 1 litre carafes. Scottish craft beers and
                                                      plenty of softy options... Book a table and look
Asian                                                 forward to a warm welcome smile in a great
                                                      neighbourhood. Brunch everyday from 10am.
Miss Woo’s Cocktails & Asian Kitchen –                Lunch 2 courses £12; pre-theatre 2 courses £15.
Opening its doors in February 2018, Miss Woo's,       32b Broughton Street, Edinburgh, EH1 3SB
an Asian Kitchen and Cocktail Bar, is something       – 0131 556 8092
new to The Shore. The food menu boasts a wide
variety of street food options. From Wings to         Owl and Deer – Relaxed and spacious bistro
Bao Buns, from Ramen to Pad Thai and a host of        at the top of Leith Walk where ground to ceiling
vegan and vegetarian friendly options. Boasting a     windows allow you to watch the world go by.
wide range of craft beers, spirits and wines - that   The cafe serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and
perfectly complements our bespoke cocktail            excellent coffee everyday and then becomes a
menu. Deals inc. 2-4-1 wings on a Wednesday           bistro on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings
and 1 cocktail plus 3 dishes for £18. Open 4pm-       from 6.30pm. The bistro menu comprises great
late Wed to Sun. 7 Bernard Street, Leith, EH6         Scottish produce and dishes are refined and well
6PW - 0131 554 4053 Facebook @Misswoosedin            executed. £22 for 2 Courses, £25 for 3 Courses.
Instagram @Misswoosedin                               One to try! 26-27 Haddington Pl, Edinburgh EH7
                                                      4AF – 0131 556 1672
Bistros and Brasseries
                                                      The Shore – Next to the famous Fishers
Apiary – Heading up the ever-expanding                restaurant on The Shore sits this classic bistro
and thriving Newington dining scene, Apiary is        from the same owners with wood paneling,
the bigger version of Three Birds. In an old Art      huge mirrors, open fires and hearty satisfying
Deco bank building, the space is large and airy       food. The food is a creative mix of classic British
with seating for up to 60 in intimate booths          dishes with a modern European twist. Set lunch
or bigger groups. Daily brunch, lunch, dinner,        Mon-Fri, 2 courses £15, 3 courses £18. Bar snack
pre-theatre, served by knowledgeable, smiley          menu also available all day. Live folk and jazz
staff. Look out for seasonal menu changes             musicians entertain customers in the bar on
offering 2 days of half price experimenting!          Tuesdays and Sundays. Open everyday from
Mon-Fri 10am-3pm/5.30pm-10pm,                         noon-late.
Weekends 10am-4pm/5pm-10pm.                           3 Shore, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6QW
33 Newington Road, Edinburgh EH9 1QR                  – 0131 553 5080
– 0131 668 4999 – www.apiaryrestaurant.co.uk          – www.fishersrestaurantgroup.co.uk
@apiaryedinburgh
                                                      Three Birds Restaurant – A firm
Educated Flea – Top to tail cooking, dressed          neighbourhood favourite in Bruntsfield,
head to toe in tasty, to comfort or excite;           Three Birds is a pocket-rocket of a restaurant.
pickling, smoking and preserving all done in-         Small, cosy and busy, menus change every
house. Super wee wine list, all on offer by           three months and daily specials add more
different glass sizes, 500ml carafes, bottles or      choice. Famous for sharing platters and great
Listings
30   wine pricing, a warm welcome always awaits.          everyday from 12 noon-late. 1 Shore, Leith,
     Open Mon-Fri 12pm-2.30pm/6-10pm, sat-                Edinburgh EH6 6QW
     sun 12pm4pm/5pm-10pm.                                – 0131 554 5666
     3-5 Viewforth, Edinburgh EH10 4JD                    – www.fishersrestaurantgroup.co.uk
     – 0131 229 3252
     – www.threebirds.co.uk @3birdsedinburgh              French

     The Walnut – Neighbourhood bistro on Leith           Bistro Du Vin – Inside Hotel Du Vin.
     Walk. BYOB (corkage) but Fully Licensed too.         French inspired classics served in informal
     The best Scottish and British produce, real home     cosy surroundings. Open for breakfast, lunch,
     cooking priced to please your pocket. Dishes are     afternoon tea, dinner & famous Sunday brunch.
     based on the best produce currently available        Expert sommeliers have chosen the most
     so there are always tempting Daily Specials on       quaffable wines from around the world to
     the blackboard. Fresh bread baked daily. Lunch 2     complement the great food. Enjoy an excellent
     Courses £10; Dinner 2 Course £20; Sunday Roast 3     range of whisky too in the ‘whisky snug’.
     Courses £20. 9 Croall Place – 0131 281 1236.         Outdoor terrace area. Simply kick-back, relax
                                                          and enjoy!
     Fish and Seafood                                     11 Bristo Pl, Edinburgh EH1 1EZ – 0131 285 1479

     Fishers in the City – A spacious and stylish         Café Marlayne (Thistle St) ­– Opened
     space – the epitome of a classic city centre         in March 2000 this branch of Café Marlayne
     eatery. Set in a converted warehouse on cobbled      follows in the footsteps of one of the many
     Thistle Street the contemporary surroundings         tiny back street bistros found all over Paris. At
     offer the perfect venue for a casual lunch or        no more than 35 square metres it can change
     intimate night out. A firm favourite with locals     from the buzzing bistro at lunch time to a more
     and visitors for fabulous Scottish seafood.          romantic, intimate restaurant at night. It has
     Set lunch & pre-theatre menu, 2 courses £15,         a classic feel with wooden warm tones and
     3 courses £18, everyday 12 noon-6pm. Open            twinkling lights. Lunch served 7 days a week:
     everyday from 12 noon-late. 58 Thistle Street,       Noon-5.30pm; Dinner served 7 days Mon-­Fri
     Edinburgh EH2 1EN – 0131 225 5109                    6pm­-10pm, Sat noon­-10pm and Sun 6pm-­10pm.
     – www.fishersrestaurantgroup.co.uk                   76 Thistle Street – 0131 226 2230 –
                                                          www.cafemarlayne.com
     Fishers in Leith – Has been the last word in
     Edinburgh’s finest casual dining for 21 years. The   La Garrigue – Regional French Cuisine and
     original Fishers is nestled on the historic shore    Terroir Wines from the Languedoc/Roussillon.
     of Leith. Set in a 17th century watchtower it        A restaurant where ‘Chef Jean Michel Gauffre
     has two beautiful dining areas, the round room       brings warm Languedoc to your plate’ (Peter
     and bar and the restaurant as well as outside        Irvine, Scotland The Best). Simple and stylish
     dining. All offer great atmosphere and, of course,   with the relaxed ambience of a French bistro
     fabulous Scottish seafood – Set lunch & pre-         and a firm favourite with locals and tourists
     theatre menu, 2 courses £15, 3 courses £18. Open     alike. Winner of the Good food Guide Readers’
You can also read