INTRODUCTION - CLOUDBIRDERS
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Papua New Guinea
24th June – 17th July 2019
By Matt Eade
Tour Participants - Ian Barnard (UK), Matt Eade (UK), Stephen Greenfield (USA), Adam Hudson (UK), Tony
Hukin (UK) & Paulo Paixao (Portuguese).
Introduction
A long way back in December 2017 I
emailed Sicklebill Safaris to put together a
comprehensive trip I was planning to PNG,
featuring some very remote regions,
regions that very few private groups have
been to. After a few emails going back and
forth, it wasn’t until April 2018 that logistics
got started and I was given an itinerary and
an early pricing structure.
I wanted to feature in the standard PNG
route that all tour companies visit (for
example the Central Highlands and
Left to Right (Matt, Stephen, Kwatu Guide, Adam, Paulo, Tony & Ian Western Provence), but the region I most
wanted to visit was the Huon Peninsular
(having three endemic Birds-of-Paradise
species being a lure).
With Tari Gap in the Highlands being out of bounds from December 2018 to the foreseeable future, we
were lucky enough to include Keki Lodge (Madang Provence) in our itinerary. It wasn’t until February 2019
that our itinerary had been finalised following the changes from the Tari outbreak.
Sicklebill Safaris were absolutely crucial in the success of this trip, not only for the professionalism they
gave to us throughout the year of emailing back and forth, but when in country they kept on top of all the
flight changes that occurred, thankfully fewer times than anticipated, but also the last minute changes to
accommodations when the itinerary did change. The trip could seriously have gone wrong without their
help. I could not recommend Sicklebill Safaris highly enough for anyone wishing to visit Papua New
Guinea, especially if you want to save lots of money.
Itinerary (In country last minute changes are shown in this format)
24th June – Flight from Brisbane to Port Moresby arriving early pm. Afternoon birding at PAU Ponds.
25th June – Early flight to Kiunga and hitch lift to Tabubil and afternoon birding around Tabubil.
26th June – Birding around Tabubil.
27th June – Drive south to Kiunga birding along route. Afternoon birding nearby.
28th June – Take early boat to Kwatu Lodge. Afternoon birding along various trails nearby.
29th June – Birding Kwatu area.
30th June – Birding Kwatu area then take boat back to Kiunga. Afternoon birding nearby.
1st July – Take mid-morning flight to Mt Hagan Airport. Drive to Kumul Lodge.
2nd July – Birding Kumul Lodge area.
3rd July – Birding Kumul Lodge area.
4th July – Drive NW to Yasukom area.
5th July – Birding Yasukom area.
6th July – Early flight from Wapanemanda Airport to Port Moresby. Afternoon birding at Varirata NP.
7th July – Very early flight from Port Moresby to Madang. Drive 4-5 hours to Keki Lodge.
8th July – Birding at Keki Lodge.
9th July – Birding at Keki Lodge.
10th July – Drive to Madang Airport at fly to Lae.
11th July – Take early charter flight from Lae to Kabwum (Huon) and drive to huonbirding.com camp area.
12th July – Birding the Huon.
13th July – Birding the Huon.
14th July – Birding the Huon.
15th July – Stranded at Kabwum town due to poor weather.
16th July – Early charter flight from Kabwum to Lae. Early pm fly Lae to Port Moresby. PM birding at
Varirata NP.
17th July – Early international flight from Port Moresby to Brisbane.
Flights
All flights from Brisbane and back to Brisbane were sorted out by Sicklebill. With this in mind, Sicklebill
sorted out a ‘package’-type deal to allow us a maximum hold luggage allowance of 23kg for the internal
flights with Air Niugini (this can only apply if the international flight is also with Air Niugini). This was
respected at all airports, but in all honesty the weighing of the luggage was only performed at some of the
airports.
Our only flight with Air PNG meant that any hold luggage above the 16kg would be charged excess. Hand
luggage with all flights was strictly 7kg.
All flights were absolutely fine and check in was generally stress free, but ensure all local guides stay with
you just in case things don’t go smoothly. I believe its their duty to stay with you.
Following on from this, our flight from Wapenamanda to Port Moresby on 6th July was quite stressful. To
cut a long story short, we eventually made it on the flight after being bumped off, so this is a warning that
quite anything can happen in PNG, so be prepared.
International - 24th June: Air Niugini from Brisbane (10.40am) to Port Moresby (12.50pm). On time.
Flights
Internal Flights – 25th June: Air Niugini from Port Moresby diverted to Kiunga due to weather. On time.
1st July: Air PNG from Kiunga to Mt Hagan. On time.
6th July: Air Niugini from Wapenamanda to Port Moresby. On time.
6th July: Air Niugini flight from Port Moresby to Madang cancelled.
7th July: Air Niugini from Port Moresby to Madang. On time.
10th July: Air Niugini from Madang to Lae. 1hr delayed.
11th July: North Coast Aviation charter flight from Lae to Kabwum.
15th July: North Coast Aviation charter flight from Kabwum to Lae cancelled.
16th July: North Coast Aviation charter flight from Kabwum to Lae.
16th July: Air Niugini from Lae to Port Moresby. On time.
International - 17th July: Air Niugini from Port Moresby to Brisbane. On time.
Flights
Cost
I’m in no position to giveaway how much the tour actually cost, but 24 days in country, including 8 internal
flights and staying in accommodation which you wouldn’t regret going to, was significantly cheaper than
any major tour company. Being only 28 years of age and having a semi respectable job with the average
wage, it took me one year to save for this trip, so by no means is this trip out of anyone’s financial range. If you want to go and see some of the best birds on this planet, it’s possible!! Visa There is no need for UK nationals to gain a visa before entering PNG. In fact, the queue for people who did get a visa before arrival were waiting 15-20 minutes extra. The visa can be purchased with ease from the desk and no problems were encountered here. Remember to get an Australian visa if staying in Aus the night before or day after arrival/departure. Birding in PNG Plenty of research will ensure that you are not surprised on just how difficult the birding is. The forests are generally quiet, and birds are exceptionally shy due to ongoing hunting. Do not expect to see hundreds of birds and get anywhere near seeing more than 350 species (unless you’re lucky or have professional guides alongside you). In terms of attitude to birding in PNG, be expected for things to go wrong and expect last minute changes to the days plan. You must visit PNG with an open mind and plenty of patience otherwise you will not enjoy your time there. Ensure you plan ahead as the local guides sometimes don’t, and things that seem simple to us, are not simple for them, it’s just the way it is. Baring this in mind, the trip ran incredibly smoothly with very few issues occurring, and even where there were, these had no dramatic affects. Land Rights Every piece of PNG is owned by someone. Do not stray of the tracks/paths/roads if you don’t have permission from either the landowner or local guide. We never encountered any issues, but there is certainly potential for problems. Accommodation Citi Serviced Boutique Hotel, Port Moresby (3 nights in total) – A superb and very secure hotel roughly a ten-minute drive from the Airport. (WIFI available) The Cloudlands Hotel, Tabubil (2 nights in total) – Another very good hotel with good food and decent rooms. Good electricity. (WIFI available) Kiunga Guesthouse (2 nights in total) – A simple guesthouse with lovely rooms and food was average. Very secure. Good electricity. (WIFI available) Kwatu Lodge (3 nights in total) – A very basic landowners lodge with cold showers and pit toilet. Locals cook the dinner which is normally rice and some grim meat and various sauces. Take a sleeping bag or decent sleeping mat for this sight, though I slept perfectly well, and no problems incurred here. Certainly, the best setting of any lodge with riverine views set in pristine forest. No electricity. (No WIFI) Kumul Lodge (3 nights in total) – A spectacular lodge set in the mountains close to Mt Hagan. Food was average but rooms were excellent though it obviously gets very cold at night so be prepared. Beds very comfortable and staff were great. Awesome birding in the grounds. Electricity from generator, normally turned off at 10pm. (WIFI basic) Yaskom Hotel Resort (2 nights in total) – A secure and very good resort with good rooms, although the food was fairly tragic on the first day, but very good on the second day. This is a very new site and will no doubt improve rapidly as this is the option with Tari Gap being out of bounds. Good electricity. (No WIFI) Keki Lodge (3 nights in total) – An excellent but basic lodge set in superb grounds in the Adelbert Mountains. Food was basic but very adequate, though may be worth taking food and drink supplies. Fairly cold at night but slept fine. Limited electricity from generator. (No WIFI)
Crossroads Motel, Lae (1 night) – A very comfortable hotel and very secure, just as well as the area
seemed fairly dangerous with plenty of security about. Food was good and washing facilities here much
needed after several nights away from electricity. (WIFI good)
Huonbirding.com Accomm. (4 nights) – The camping here was superb and professionally setup by Cheyne
who owns the site. Food was good and plenty of supplies are brought to the site by the owner. Extremely
cold at night and a warm sleeping bag is a must. Gets very hot during the day. A generator ensures you can
charge up anything. Hot showers even provided, something that can’t be said for most of the trip. (No
WIFI)
Logistics
Once the planning had officially started, it was the task of getting a crew together. With cost in mind, I
wanted a minimum of six people including myself. It took me no time to get five, and eventually I managed
to get the sixth after someone pulled out by advertising on birdforum. By October/November 2018 the
international flights from UK or wherever were booked. After many emails between all the group we were
finally ready to get going. Below are some of the key points that were raised during the preparations.
The local guides used varied from excellent to good. A few language barriers incurred but overall the
understanding was straight-forward. We were picked up and dropped off at the various airports. I found it
very useful to gain the phone numbers for the local guides and use WhatsApp to get in contact prior to
meeting them.
What to take:
Telescopes: Essential. Often the Birds-of-Paradise are distant but great scope views were had. And
with birds being shy, they are generally distant.
Birds of New Guinea App – To aid us along the way and to save significant weight in our luggage,
we were kindly supplied with the beta version of a very helpful app version of the Birds of New Guinea
guide on our phones. It also contains many of the bird calls and will be available on the app store when it
goes live.
Critters of many kinds: Leeches were an issue at Kiunga, Kwatu and potentially Varirata NP. Leech
socks were worn by some of the group, but they were never an issue. Chiggers were not an issue either,
but basic precaution must be taken at Kwatu especially, though wearing wellies helped out massively.
Mosquitos were evident but again simple precautions meant very few bites were received. Malarone anti-
malarial tablets are a must for PNG. Check with your travel clinic or similar before going to PNG to ensure
all relevant injections are up to date.
Wellies: Essential at Kwatu and I wore them at most sights anyway. However, at Kwatu when we
were there was flooded in places. Some people wore overshoes which also worked well but were very
noisy when walking around. To save on weight, wellies can be purchased at Kiunga for your time at Kwatu.
Clothing: Go prepared for wet, dry, hot & cold conditions, but keep in mind the maximum hold and
hand luggage.
SIM Cards: Digicell SIM cards can be purchased at the airport and various other joints. Phone
coverage in PNG is excellent so to avoid substantial costs on the phone bill, get a SIM card.
Other useful bits: Laser pointers are good to take for obvious reasons as local guides do not have
them. The same can be said for bird calls, although we found very few species to be responsive to our bird
calls. The calls can either be attained from the app or from xeno-canto. By far the best Bluetooth speaker
I’ve ever used was a ‘JBL CLIP 3 Portable Bluetooth Speaker’ that can be purchased off Amazon.
Weather
As we chose the last week of June and first few weeks of July, we certainly got a mixture of wet and dry.
The Western Provence is known for having bad weather, and so this turned out with constant on and off
rain for our first five days in country. This may seem disastrous, but we were lucky in that the rain had little
effect on finding our target birds.
Upon leaving the Western Provence, the remaining time in PNG was largely dry and pleasant. The Central
Highlands and Madang Provence was perfect weather, and our time on the Huon was mostly dry, except
from our departure day where we were stranded……more on that later.
Birding Sites
PAU Ponds, Port Moresby: This is a great spot where three hours can quickly pass by and a
decent list of birds can be found. Our only Fawn-breasted Bowerbirds, Pheasant Coucals, both Whistling
Ducks, Nankeen Night Herons, Rufous-banded Honeyeaters and of course the duo of Papuan
Frogmouths.
This site is roughly a 20-30 minute drive from the hotel in Port Moresby, and is well worth a
visit. More details can be found on my blog here:
http://seafordbirding.blogspot.com/2019/07/papua-new-guinea-pau-ponds-june-2019.html
Tabubil, Western Provence: This is the place for
finding some enigmas of PNG. The Shovel-billed
Kingfisher is the top target, and we luckily saw one bird
well. A recently found site has been found in the forests
to the north of OK Menga Hydro Site, and our local
guides knew the site. This is also by far the best site to
find Carola’s Parotia & Salvadori’s Teal. The Western
Provence is known for its grim weather, and this proved
to be true with near enough non-stop rainfall, at times
significantly heavy. Excellent birding was had in the
forested region to the east of town. There are two main
birding sites here:
Dablin Creek Road (-5.2166553, 141.2278835): Carola’s
Parotia, Magnificent BoP & White-rumped Robin were
our three main highlights here. Difficult in poor
conditions though watching a young male Carola’s
Parotia dancing was memorable.
OK Menga Road & River Crossing : Shovel-billed
Kingfisher, Salvadori’s Teal, Wallace’s Fairywren,
Magnificent Riflebird & Crinkle-collared Manucode were
the main highlights here among a wealth of other terrific
species.
http://seafordbirding.blogspot.com/2019/07/papua-new-guinea-tabubil-june-2019-part.html
Kiunga, Western Provence: This is the main base for visits to Kwatu upriver, and with two nights here
we made the most of our available time, with two visits to the Greater Bird-of-Paradise lek to the north of
town, plus a very damp visit to the Boys Town Road where the weather really affected our time spent here.
The Greater BoP lek is superb, and is based at km17 (signposted) on the main road running north from
Kiunga (-5.995417, 141.294229). A key is needed to enter the forest here so don’t attempt going by yourself. Key
birding sites in the Kiunga area:
KM 17: Beware that the Greater BoP lek does support some hybrids with the also
occurring Raggiana BoP. Its fairly straightforward, but more importantly just enjoy
the spectacle. The lek is obviously very good early morning, but also roughly 60-90
minutes before dusk. White-crowned Cuckoo and Obscure Berrypecker also noted
here.
Boys Town Road: A semi-reliable site for Flame Bowerbird, but it was very wet
during our visit, so a Lowland Peltops was the only bird of note.
Kwatu Area, Western Provence (-6.074966, 141.522513): This superb lowland area provided our group
with a whole host of exciting species, and three nights would be the minimum amount of time I would
want here. We were lucky in that we encountered our targets quickly, and left the area with pretty much
all of our likely targets. The local guide would take us by boat to three main trails down or upstream from
Kwatu Lodge. Wellies are a must for this site!! Night birding is also rewarding around here. Note; in late
June the lek or feeding sites of Flame Bowerbird and New Guinea Flightless Rail respectively had either not
been found or underwater. Groups in July/August succeeded in finding leks and feeding stations for the
above species.
With plenty of time in the area, our list of targets seen is long but as follows:
Flame Bowerbird (in flight), Papuan Pitta (learn the call!), Hooded Pitta, King Bird-
of-Paradise, Scheepmaker’s Crowned Pigeon, Marbled Frogmouth, Wallace’s
Owlet-Nightjar, Hook-billed Kingfisher, Common & Little Paradise Kingfisher,
Twelve-wired Bird-of-Paradise, Blue Jewel-Babbler. Some other excellent species
were encountered, and our Bird-of-Paradise list certainly increased here.
http://seafordbirding.blogspot.com/2019/07/papua-new-guinea-kiunga-kwatu-june-2019.html
Kumul Lodge, Central Highlands (5.792500, 143.974000): The high-altitude birding started here.
Roughly a 90-minute drive from Mt Hagan Airport. Birding is excellent around the grounds with many
sought after species just outside your rooms. The feeders by the main building support a wealth of good
birds including frequent visits from Ribbon-tailed Astrapias, Brown Sicklebills and other colourful species.
The main birding sites in this area are as follows. A further day here and Tomba Pass would have been
featured as this supports a few different BoPs, however our next site delivered these.
Kumul Lodge: Along the main trail and gardens we encountered Mountain Firetails,
Brehm’s Tiger Parrot, Crested Satinbird, Mountain Owlet-Nightjar, New Guinea
Woodcock, Macgregor’s Bowerbird, Blue-capped Ifrit, Garnet Robin, Island Thrush,
Ribbon-tailed Astrapia, Brown Sicklebill among other good bits.
Tonga Trail (5.699313, 143.925645): This is a very steep trail and care must be taken.
However, its not very long but supports Blue Bird-of-Paradise, Greater Lophorina,
Mountain Fruit-Dove, Goldie’s Lorikeet. Birding was quiet here especially after
10am. Search for Torrent-Lark along the river south and north.
Kama Village (5.623000, 143.928000): Around a 50-minute drive north of Kumul
Lodge. 4x4s are required to reach the village from the main road and organised by
the local guide. This is a known site for the Lesser Bird-of-Paradise. After much fluty
calling, a male soon showed well. Other great birds here included Yellow-breasted
Bowerbird, many female Greater Lophorina plus a female Magnificent Bird-of-
Paradise.
http://seafordbirding.blogspot.com/2019/07/papua-new-guinea-kumul-lodge-july-2019.html
Yasukom, Central Highlands: This is a new and exciting area, which due to the Tari outbreak, will be
the new and upcoming site to replace Tari. We were the first group to visit for Sicklebill Safaris, and from
word of mouth, only the third group to visit in total. This is another high altitude and mountainous area,
with locals working hard to find sought after species, and building trails to support bird groups, though the
majority of birding is done along the roads. The trails at times are very steep and slippery and birding quiet
at times (like the rest of the country), though some great species are found here. With only two nights
here, we spent all of our time birding with the following highlights encountered:
Orange-crowned Fairywren, Papuan Treecreeper, Hooded Cuckooshrike, Lesser
Melampitta, Blue-capped Ifrit, Wattled Ploughbill, Princess Stephanie’s Astrapia, Brown
Sicklebill, King-of-Saxony Bird-of-Paradise, Loria’s Satinbird. Although the birding was
quiet, yet again a semi-respectable list of birds were seen. No doubt with more groups
visiting this region, the area will turn up many more birds.
http://seafordbirding.blogspot.com/2019/07/papua-new-guinea-yasukom-varirata-np.html
Keki Lodge, Madang Provence (-4.7036673, 145.4056627): Keki Lodge set in the Adelbert Mountain
range is no doubt the number one site to find the Fire-maned Bowerbird, which is one of the most striking
species in PNG. Also here is a semi-reliable hide for Magnificent Bird-of-Paradise, whilst young males or
females Lesser Bird-of-Paradise are in the grounds. Victoria Crowned Pigeons no longer occur here having
been hunted to local extinction. Birding is very quiet but with careful walking within the interior some
excellent species are found. Three nights here will allow enough time for the male Bowerbird to come into
the tree. Moyang the owner, picks you up from Madang Airport with a journey time of approximately four
hours, with the latter hour being exceptionally bumpy. There is a single circular trail which was fairly
productive, with regular sightings of Banded Yellow Robin and Magnificent Bird-of-Paradise.
Highlights for this area: Fire-maned Bowerbird, Obscure Berrypecker, Magnificent Bird-of-
Paradise, Papuan Boobook, Crinkle-collared Manucode, Banded Yellow Robin, White-rumped
Robin, Sooty Thicket Fantail. This site also holds lots of Parrots and Fruit-Doves, and frequent bird
flocks inhabit the canopy just down from the grounds.
The Huon Peninsular, Huon: This was for me the most anticipated region of the entire trip. Cheyne
(owner of Wallindi Resort on New Britain) has set up a superb ‘campsite’ at high altitude above the village
of Satop. The tents are fantastic and very spacious, food is well above the expectations and the main
highlights are within easy reach. The Huon has a respectable list of endemic species, and over our four
night stay we aimed to find the majority of these. The area is still under watched and some of the
endemics haven’t been located yet to favoured areas. Visit huonbirding.com for more information.
Getting to the Huon was fine, with a charter flight from Lae taking us to the small airstrip at the town of
Kabwum. Our driver was there to collect us and drive us for two hours up and over the ridge that
surrounds Kabwum. All the locals were so friendly and excited to see us, especially those at the
campgrounds, where Cheyne also met us. Cheyne has set up this area completely for birders and has an
army of guides to take you to wherever you wish to. Due to the hides being only suitable for three-four
people, splitting up in a large group is the key. Most birding is done from the single road/track.
On departure day, our charter was cancelled due to weather, so we had to stay in Kabwum. Thankfully the
weather improved the next day and we arrived in Lae, then Port Moresby a day late. Being a weather
dependant airstrip, its worth taking this into consideration.
Main Targets:
Emperor Bird-of-Paradise: A new lek site has bee found in the valley to the west of Satop. A
long enough amount of time here will see a superb display from the most (in my opinion)
striking Bird-of-Paradise.
Huon Astrapia: Commonly encountered above the camping grounds at various lookouts.
Wahnes’s Parotia: This awesome bird (whether male or female) were in the end
encountered with some regularity. Two fine males found included one at its dancing arena,
watched from a hide as it danced in front of us. MEMORABLE!! Females were located at
high elevations from the camp ground.
Huon Bowerbird: A single bird found along the road above the camp grounds. A hide has
been set up for this species, and although the bower was active, the bird was never seen
here.
Spangled Honeyeater: Commonly encountered throughout.
Mottled Berryhunter: Only one found above the campgrounds.
Forbe’s Forest Rail: Heard within dense forest, but they respond brilliant to playback.
Spotted Jewel Babbler: Heard calling frequently, and eventually tracked down.
Feline Owlet-Nightjar: Frustratingly heard every night but never seen.
http://seafordbirding.blogspot.com/2019/08/papua-new-guinea-huon-peninsular-july.html
Varirata National Park, Port Moresby: Depending on which vehicle is used, it can take roughly 50 –
90 minutes to reach this quite excellent national park. Due to unforeseen circumstances, we spent not as
much time here, which was a shame as the park was very good. Constant bird waves and some very
exciting species were seen, and of course included the superb lek of the Raggiana Bird-of-Paradise, plus
many calling Growling Riflebirds.
We concentrated our efforts along the Lookout Trail and the Treehouse Trail. Both trails take roughly two
hours to walk, depending on how vigilant you want to be. There is a small charge to enter the park. I would
recommend two full days for the park, as there are plenty of shy and elusive species to find.
We came across many exciting species including the seldom seen Forest Bittern, plus others such as
Brown-headed Paradise Kingfisher, Black-billed Brush-Turkey, Yellow-billed Kingfisher & Barred Owlet-
Nightjar.
http://seafordbirding.blogspot.com/2019/08/papua-new-guinea-varirata-visit-2.html
Bird List (IOC)
Species (English Name) Species (Scientific Name) Sites where seen/heard
Magpie Goose Anseranas semipalmata PAU Ponds
Plumed Whistling Duck Dendrocygna eytoni PAU Ponds
Wandering Whistling Duck Dendrocygna arcuata PAU Ponds
Salvadori’s Teal Salvadorina waigiuensis OK Menga Road
Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa PAU Ponds
Gray Teal Anas gracilis PAU Ponds
Yellow-legged Brushturkey Talegalla fuscirostris Varirata National Park
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Highlands
Amboyna Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia amboinensis Tabubil, Kwatu, Huon
Black-billed Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia nigrirostris Tabubil, Kumul, Yasukom
Great Cuckoo-Dove Reinwardtoena reinwardti Tabubil, Huon
Peaceful Dove Geopelia placida PAU Ponds
Bar-shouldered Dove Geopelia humeralis PAU Ponds
Sclater’s Crowned Pigeon Goura sclaterii KwatuWompoo Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus magnificus Keki Lodge Pink-spotted Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus perlatus Kiunga, Keki Lodge Ornate Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus ornatus Kwatu, Huon Orange-fronted Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus aurantiifrons PUA Ponds Superb Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus superbus Tabubil, Kwatu, Keki Lodge Beautiful Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus pulchellus Tabubil, Kwatu White-breasted Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus Rivoli bellus Tonga Trail, Kumul Orange-bellied Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus iozonus Kwatu, Keki Lodge Purple-tailed Imperial-Pigeon Ducula rufigaster Kwatu Pinon’s Imperial-Pigeon Ducula pinon Kwatu Collared Imperial-Pigeon Ducula mullerii Kwatu Zoe’s Imperial-Pigeon Ducula zoeae Kwatu, Keki Lodge Torresian Imperial-Pigeon Ducula spilorrhoa PAU Ponds Papuan Mountain Pigeon Gymnophaps albertisii Kiunga, Tabubil, Kumul, Huon Greater Black Coucal Centropus menbeki PAU Ponds Pheasant Coucal Centropus phasianinus PAU Ponds Pacific Koel Eudynamys orientalis Kwatu Channel-billed Cuckoo Scythrops novaehollandiae Kwatu Long-billed Cuckoo Chrysococcyx megarhynchus Kwatu Rufous-throated Bronze-Cuckoo Chrysococcyx ruficollis Yasukom White-eared Bronze-Cuckoo Chrysococcyx meyerii Tabubil, Huon White-crowned Koel Cacomantis leucolophus Kiunga Fan-tailed Cuckoo Cacomantis flabelliformis Yasukom Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus Kumul, Yasukom, Huon Marbled Frogmouth Podargus ocellatus Kwatu Papuan Frogmouth Podargus papuensis PAU Ponds Wallace’s Owlet-Nightjar Aegotheles wallacii Kwatu Mountain Owlet-Nightjar Aegotheles albertisi Kumul Barred Owlet-Nightjar Aegotheles bennettii Varirata NP Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta Common throughout Mountain Swiftlet Aerodramus hirundinaceus Common in mountains Uniform Swiftlet Areodramus vanikorensis Common in lowlands Papuan Spinetailed Swift Mearnsia novaeguineae Kiunga, Kwatu Moustached Treeswift Hemiprocne mystacea Tabubil, Kwatu Dusky Moorhen Gallinula tenebrosa PAU Ponds Eurasian Coot Fulica atra PAU Ponds Australasian Swamphen Porphyrio melanotus PAU Ponds Pale-vented Bush-hen Amaurornis moluccana Tabubil Forbes’s Rail Rallina mayri Huon Masked Lapwing Vanellus miles Port Moresby, Lae Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Tabubil New Guinea Woodcock Scolopax rosenbergii Kumul Little Black Cormorant Phalacrocorax sulcirostris PAU Ponds Forest Bittern Zonerodius heliosylus Varirata NP Great Billed Heron Ardea sumatrana Kwatu Great Egret Ardea alba Port Moresby, Lae Intermediate Egret Ardea intermedia PAU Ponds Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis PAU Ponds + all airfields Rufous Night-Heron Nycticorax caledonicus PAU Ponds Australian Ibis Threskiornis Molucca PAU Ponds
Long-tailed Honey-buzzard Henicopernis longicauda Tabubil Pacific Baza Aviceda subcristata Kwatu, Huon Pygmy Eagle Hieraaetus weiskei Tabubil, Kiunga Swamp Harrier Circus approximans Huon Variable Goshawk Accipiter hiogaster Tabubil, Kumul Brown Goshawk Accipiter fasciatus Kumul Gray-headed Goshawk Accipiter poliocephalus Tabubil Doria’s Goshawk Megatriochis doriae Tabubil Black Kite Milvus migrans Central Highlands Whistling Kite Haliastur sphenurus Kiunga Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus Common White-bellied Sea-Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster Kiunga/Kwatu Sooty Owl Tyto tenebricosa Huon Papuan Boobook Ninox theomacha Keki Lodge, Huon Blyth’s Hornbill Rhyticeros plicatus Common Azure Kingfisher Ceyx azureus Kwatu Blue-winged Kookaburra Dacelo leachii Varirata NP Rufous-bellied Kookaburra Dacelo gaudichaud Kwatu Shovel-billed Kookaburra Clytoceyx rex Tabubil Sacred Kingfisher Todiamphus sanctus Commonest Kingfisher Forest Kingfisher Todiramphus macleayii Tabubil Hook-billed Kingfisher Melidora macrorrhina Kwatu Yellow-billed Kingfisher Syma torotoro Varirata NP Mountain Kingfisher Syma megarhyncha Huon Little Paradise-Kingfisher Tanysiptera hydrocharis Kwatu Common Paradise-Kingfisher Tanysiptera galatea Kwatu Brown-headed Paradise-Kingfisher Tanysiptera danae Varirata NP Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus Kumul Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis Common Oriental Hobby Falco severus Wabag Australian Hobby Falco longipennis Tabubil, Huon Brown Falcon Falco berigora Huon Palm Cockatoo Probosciger aterrimus Kwatu Sulphur-crested Cockatoo Cacatua galerita Kwatu, Keki Lodge Pesquet’s Parrot Psittrichas fulgidus Tabubil, Kiunga, Keki Lodge, Huon Red-breasted Pygmy-Parrot Micropsitta bruijnii Tabubil Papuan King Parrot Alisterus chloropterus Yasukom Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus Tabubil, Kwatu, Huon Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi Kumul, Keki Lodge Blue-collared Parrot Geoffroyus simplex Tabubil Painted Tiger-Parrot Psittacella picta Yasukom Brehm’s Tiger-Parrot Psittacella brehmii Kumul, Huon Yellow-billed Lorikeet Neopsittacus musschenbroekii Kumul, Huon Orange-billed Lorikeet Neopsittacus pullicauda Yasukom Orange-breasted Fig-Parrot Cyclopsitta guilelmitertii PAU Ponds Double-eyed Fig-Parrot Cyclopsitta diophthalma Kwatu Large Fig-Parrot Psittaculirostris desmarestii Tabubil, Kwatu Plum-faced Lorikeet Oreopsittacus arfaki Kumul Papuan Lorikeet Charmosyna papou Kumul, Yasukom Black-capped Lory Lorius lory Tabubil, Keki Lodge
Goldie’s Lorikeet Psitteuteles goldei Kumul Coconut Lorikeet Trichoglossus haemotodus Common Papuan Pitta Erythropitta macklotii Kwatu Hooded Pitta Pitta sordida Kwatu MacGregor’s Bowerbird Amblyornis macgregoriae Kumul Flame Bowerbird Sericulus ardens Kwatu Fire-maned Bowerbird Sericulus bakeri Keki Lodge Yellow-breasted Bowerbird Chlamydera lauterbachi Kama Village Fawn-breasted Bowerbird Chlamydera cerviniventris PAU Ponds Papuan Treecreeper Cormobates placens Yasukom Wallace’s Fairywren Sipodotus wallacii Tabubil Orange-crowned Fairywren Clytomyias insignis Yasukom White-shouldered Fairywren Malurus alboscapulatus Common Plain Honeyeater Pycnopygius ixiodes Tabubil, Keki Lodge Marbled Honeyeater Pycnopygius cinereus Huon Scrub Honeyeater Meliphaga albonotata Tabubil, Kwatu Mountain Meliphaga Meliphaga orientalis Keki Lodge Mimic Honeyeater Meliphaga analoga Kwatu Black-throated Honeyeater Caligavis subfrenata Yasukom Ornate Melidectes Melidectes torquatus Kumul, Huon Cinnamon-browed Melidectes Melidectes ochromelas Huon Belford’s Melidectes Melidectes belfordi Kumul, Yasukom Yellow-browed Melidectes Melidectes rufocrissalis Tonga Trail Rufous-banded Honeyeater Conopophila albogularis PAU Ponds Smoky Honeyeater Melipotes fumigatus Kumul, Yasukom Spangled Honeyeater Melipotes ater Huon Long-billed Honeyeater Melilestes megarhynchus Tabubil, Keki Lodge Papuan Black Myzomela Myzomela nigrita Varirata NP Elfin Myzomela Myzomela adolphinae Kumul Red-collared Myzomela Myzomela rosenbergii Kumul, Yasukom, Huon Rufous-backed Honeyeater Ptiloprora guisei Yasukom, Huon Grey-streaked Honeyeater Ptiloprora perstriata Kumul, Yasukom Tawny-breasted Honeyeater Xanthotis flaviventer Tabubil, Keki Lodge Spotted Honeyeater Xanthotis polygrammus Keki Lodge Helmeted Friarbird Philemon buceroides Common Goldenface Pachycare flavogriseum Varirata NP Rusty Mouse-Warbler Crateroscelis murina Tabubil Mountain Mouse-Warbler Crateroscelis robusta Kumul, Yasukom, Huon Tropical Scrubwren Sericornis beccarii Tonga Trail, Kumul Large Scrubwren Sericornis nouhuysi Lowlands Buff-faced Scrubwren Sericornis perspicillatus Kumul, Yasukom, Huon Papuan Scrubwren Sericornis papuensis Yasukom Pale-billed Scrubwren Sericornis spilodera Tabubil Gray Thornbill Acanthiza cinerea Kumul Fairy Gerygone Gerygone palpebrosa Keki Lodge Yellow-bellied Gerygone Gerygone chrysogaster Keki Lodge Brown-breasted Gerygone Gerygone ruficollis Yasukom, Huon Spotted Jewel-Babbler Ptilorrhoa leucosticta Huon Blue Jewel-Babbler Ptilorrhoa caerulescens Kwatu Stout-billed Cuckooshrike Coracina caerulegrisea Keki Lodge
Hooded Cuckooshrike Coracina longicauda Yasukom Barred Cuckooshrike Coracina lineata Keki Lodge Boyer’s Cuckooshrike Coracina boyeri Tabubil, Keki Lodge Black-faced Cuckooshrike Coracina novaehollandiae Tabubil, Huon White-bellied Cuckooshrike Coracina papuensis Lae, Kabwum Golden Cuckooshrike Campochaera sloetii Tabubil Varied Triller Lalage leucomela Kwatu Black-bellied Cicadabird Edolisoma montanum Tabubil, Yasukom Gray-headed Cicadabird Edolisoma schisticeps Tabubil Wattled Ploughbill Eulacestoma nigropectus Yasukom Rufous-naped Bellbird Aleadryas rufinucha Kumul Tit Berrypecker Oreocharis arfaki Huon Crested Berrypecker Paramythia montium Kumul Rusty Pitohui Pseudorectes ferrugineus Varirata NP White-bellied Pitohui Pseudorectes incertus Kwatu Gray Shrikethrush Colluricincla harmonica Madang Little Shrikethrush Colluricincla megahyncha Keki Lodge Regent Whistler Pachycephala schlegelii Kumul, Huon Brown-backed Whistler Pachycephala modesta Kumul, Keki Lodge Rusty Whistler Pachycephala hyperythra Huon Gray Whistler Pachycephala simplex Yasukom, Keki Lodge Hooded Pitohui Pitohui dichrous Varirata NP, Keki Lodge Brown Oriole Oriolus szalayi PAU Ponds Australasian Figbird Sphecotheres vieilloti PAU Ponds Black-breasted Boatbill Machaerirhynchus nigripectus Yasukom, Huon Yellow-breasted Boatbill Machaerirhynchus flaviventer Tabubil, Keki Lodge Great Woodswallow Artamus maximus Kumul, Huon White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus Kiunga Mountain Peltops Peltops montanus Tabubil Lowland Peltops Peltops blainvilli Kiunga Black-backed Butcherbird Cracticus mentalis PAU Ponds Hooded Butcherbird Cracticus cassicus Kwatu, Kiunga Black Butcherbird Cracticus quoyi Tabubil Mottled Berryhunter Rhagologus leucostigma Huon Drongo Fantail Chaetorhynchus papuensis Tabubil Black Fantail Rhipidura atra Tabubil, Yasukom, Huon Northern Fantail Rhipidura rifiventris Keki Lodge Sooty Thicket-Fantail Rhipidura threnothorax Keki Lodge White-bellied Thicket-Fantail Rhipidura leucothorax Tabubil Willie-Wagtail Rhipidura leucophrys Common Rufous-backed Fantail Rhipidura rufidorsa Tabubil Dimorphic Fantail Rhipidura brachyrhyncha Tabubil, Kumul, Huon Friendly Fantail Rhipidura albolimbata Kumul, Yasukom, Huon Spangled Drongo Dicrurus bracteatus Kwatu Trumpet Manucode Phonygammus keraudrenii Kwatu Crinkle-collared Manucode Manucodia chalybatus Tabubil, Keki Lodge Glossy-mantled Manucode Manucodia ater Kwatu King-of-Saxony Bird-of-Paradise Pteridophora alberti Yasukom Carola’s Parotia Parotia carolae Tabubil Wahnes’s Parotia Parotia wahnesi Huon
Twelve-wired Bird-of-Paradise Seleucidis melanoleucus Kwatu Greater Lophorina Lophorina superba Tonga Trail, Kama Village Magnificent Riflebird Ptiloris magnificus Tabubil Growling Riflebird Ptiloris intercedens Varirata NP Brown Sicklebill Epimachus meyeri Kumul, Yasukom Huon Astrapia Astrapia rothschildi Huon Stephanie’s Astrapia Astrapia stephaniae Yasukom Ribbon-tailed Astrapia Astrapia mayeri Kumul King Bird-of-Paradise Cicinnurus regius Kwatu Magnificent Bird-of-Paradise Cicinnurus magnificus Tabubil, Kama Village, Keki Lodge Blue Bird-of-Paradise Paradisaea rudolphi Tonga Trail Emperor Bird-of-Paradise Paradisaea guilielmi Huon Lesser Bird-of-Paradise Paradisaea minor Kama Village, Keki Lodge Raggiana Bird-of-Paradise Paradisaea raggiana Varirata NP Greater Bird-of-Paradise Paradisaea apoda Tabubil, Kiunga, Kwatu Blue-capped Ifrita Ifrita kowaldi Kumul, Yasukom Golden Monarch Carterornis chrysomela Kwatu Black-faced Monarch Monarcha melanopsis Varirata NP Spot-winged Monarch Symposiachrus guttula Kwatu Hooded Monarch Symposiachrus manadensis Kwatu Frilled Monarch Arses telescopthalmus Varirata NP Ochre-collared Monarch Arses insularis Keki Lodge Torrent-Lark Grallina brujnii Tonga Trail Shining Flycatcher Myiagra alecto Kwatu Lesser Melampitta Melampitta lugubris Yasukom Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach Kumul Gray Crow Corvus tristis Kwatu, Keki Lodge Torresian Crow Corvus orru PAU Ponds Loria’s Satinbird Cnemophilus loriae Yasukom Crested Satinbird Cnemophilus macgregorii Kumul Obscure Berrypecker Melanocharis arfakiana Keki Lodge Black Berrypecker Melanocharis nigra Varirata NP Fan-tailed Berrypecker Melanocharis versteri Kumul, Yasukom Streaked Berrypecker Melanocharis striativentris Huon Yellow-bellied Longbill Toxorhamphus poliopterus Tabubil, Keki Lodge Spectacled Longbill Oedistoma iliolophus Tabubil Pygmy Longbill Oedistoma pygmaeum Tabubil Torrent Flycatcher Monachella muelleriana Tabubil, Kumul Yellow-legged Flycatcher Microeca griseoceps Tabubil Papuan Flycatcher Microeca papuana Kumul, Yasukom, Huon Garnet Robin Eugerygone rubra Kumul, Yasukom White-faced Robin Tregellasia leucops Varirata NP Black-sided Robin Poecilodryas hypoleuca Kwatu Banded Yellow Robin Poecilodryas placens Keki Lodge Black-throated Robin Poecilodryas albonotata Yasukom, Huon White-winged Robin Peneothello sigillata Kumul, Yasukom White-rumped Robin Peneothello bimaculata Tabubil, Keki Lodge Blue-gray Robin Peneothello cyanus Yasukom, Huon Australasian Bushlark Mirafra javanica Lae Airfield Golden-headed Cisticola Cisticola exilis Kabwum Airstrip
Papuan Grassbird Cincloramphus macrurus Tonga Trail, Huon Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica Common Island Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus maforensis At all high elevations Black-fronted White-eye Zosterops minor Keki Lodge New Guinea White-eye Zosterops novaeguineae Tonga Trail, Yasukom Metallic Starling Aplonis metallica Madang Yellow-eyed Starling Aplonis mystacea Kwatu Singing Starling Aplonis cantoroides Kiunga, Kwatu Yellow-faced Myna Mino dumontii Kwatu, Keki Lodge Golden Myna Mino anais Kwatu Island Thrush Turdus poliocephalus Kumul Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata Tabubil Red-capped Flowerpecker Dicaeum geelvinkianum Kumul Black Sunbird Leptocoma aspasia Varirata NP Olive-backed Sunbird Cinnyris jugularis Lae Mountain Firetail Oreostruthus fuliginosus Kumul Grand Munia Lonchura grandis Madang Hooded Munia Lonchura spectabilis Tonga Trail Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Common Missed Species Due to the problems with Tari, we did miss some species, most importantly Lawe’s Parotia, Short-tailed Paradigalla and Black Sicklebill. However, these can be found with more time at Yasukom, and with more groups visiting this little-known region, these species will surely turn up with more frequency.
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