2019: A RICH CLASSIC - Baur au Lac Vins
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2019: A RICH CLASSIC
by Mario Aschwanden
Truly exceptional in every respect, this vintage.
Having said that, what a strange feeling when, as was the case with some châteaux, one first
measured our temperature before letting us go on to the tasting, or also that we could only
take off our protective mask when we started the tasting. Or reading messages of some
cellars, indicating that they would be happy to welcome such "exotic customers": just as
surprising.
In fact, we were really the first foreign guests there in almost three months. But in these
extraordinary times, it was absolutely worth the trip, even at exceptionally warm
temperatures for Primeurs and this year indeed, some wineries have undoubtedly made the
best wines of the last decades.
Applied in many places, near-natural culture methods, including biodynamics, are beginning
to take effect. Most of the wines have gained in precision and liveliness and, in addition to
their opulence, have proven to be incredibly good on the palate already at this stage. In
combination with the above-mentioned near-natural processes, the increasingly precise
work on the vines and the particularities of this vintage, this phase has allowed the
characteristics of the soils to express themselves much more than usual. As a result, the best
terroirs clearly stood out from the others.
Of course, given the circumstances, I could not taste all that was offered to the full extent.
Thus, no tastings of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, where all the members present
their selections in a compact way and by appellation. No tastings at the great wine
merchants either, which is why we had to visit almost every château individually. Still: what
we discovered in our glasses was simply breathtaking! For these wines have a lot of
everything: lots of soft tannins, lots of alcohol and, fortunately, also a lot of fresh and juicy
acidity, all bound together in a compact and balanced way. Some of them seemed a bit
warm to us, but otherwise, 2019 is really a great vintage. Very obviously, it is also a year for
Cabernet-Sauvignon and, in many places, for Cabernet Franc. Perhaps the 2019s won't have
quite the freshness and lightness of 2016, but on the other hand, they are more powerful.
Another striking phenomenon: hearing the directors of the wine estates almost
systematically compare this vintage to those of the great years 2010, 2016 and 2018, or even
to a combination of these years. In one specific case, I even thought: "Maybe a young wine
from the '47s could have tasted like this". Slightly above average, the quantities harvested
are also a cause to applaud: the rare whites and Sauternes tasted seemed to be predestined
for enormous success too.
Baur au Lac Vins, Adlikerstrasse 272, 8105 Regensdorf, Telefon +41 44 777 05 05, Fax +41 44 777 05 03
www.bauraulacvins.ch I information@balv.chLet's also mention the weather, briefly: 2019 was a year of contrasts. A cool and wet spring
was followed by a quite trouble-free flowering. The summer was very hot (up to 42 degrees)
and dry, with moderate showers in July, August and September which revitalized the vines
well. In addition, the end of August cool nights did much to keep the above-mentioned
freshness in the wines. The harvest began in mid-September with the Merlot and, in most
cases, ended with the Cabernet Sauvignon before the heavy rains of mid-October set in.
But we saved the best for last: the prices!
As was already the case for the Pontet-Canet, they are now at a level that hadn’t been
reached for a long time, and for this reason, they will probably be unbeatable in terms of
price/quality ratio.
In other words: buy, buy, buy!
Cheers!
Baur au Lac Vins, Adlikerstrasse 272, 8105 Regensdorf, Telefon +41 44 777 05 05, Fax +41 44 777 05 03
www.bauraulacvins.ch I information@balv.chSaint-Émilion
As usual: with many ups and downs, various wines not being able to “hide” their high alcohol
content (15% per volume: rather the norm). Nevertheless, the great terroirs were all fully
convincing. Moreover, as is often the case: the Château Sansonnet is unbeatable in terms of
price/performance, the 2019 vintage being a sort of modern (and also better) variant of the
2010 vintage.
Cheval Blanc 96-98
Angelus 96-98
Figeac 96-97
Beauséjour Duffeau Lagarosse 95-96+
Pavie Macquin 95-96
Pavie 94-96?
Canon 94-96
Troplong Mondot 93-95+?
Petit Cheval 93-95
Sansonnet 93-94+
Bellevue Mondotte 93-94??
Pavie Decesse 93-94?
Fombrauge 91-93
Bellevue 91-93
Soutard Cadet 91-92
Carillon de Angelus 91-92
Quinault L'Enclos 90-92
Soutard 90-92
Moulin du Cadet 90-91
Monbousquet 89-91?
Côte de Baleau 89-91
Laroze 88-90
Saintayme 88-89
Arômes de Pavie 87-89??
Chauvin 87-89
Corbin 87-89
Mondot (2ème vin Troplong Mondot) 87-88
Ausone
Clos Fourtet
Tertre Rotebouf
Quintus
Canon la Gaffelière
L'If (Ch. Le Pin)
Beau Séjour Bécot
Baur au Lac Vins, Adlikerstrasse 272, 8105 Regensdorf, Telefon +41 44 777 05 05, Fax +41 44 777 05 03
www.bauraulacvins.ch I information@balv.chLa Gaffelière
Larcis Ducasse
Moulin St. Georges
Grandes Murailles
Pomerol
An incredible performance, with great names offering great wines: l'Évangile produced the
best wine I have ever tasted. With its exotic opulence, it reminded me of the great Pomerols
of the 1940s and 1950s.
Pétrus 98-100
Evangile 98-99+
Vieux Château Certan 97-98
L'Eglise Clinet 95-97
Le Gay 94-96
Clinet 94-96
Gazin 93-94
Petit Eglise 90-92
Rouget 90-91
La Pointe 90-91
Nenin 90-91
Petit Village 89-91
Le Pin
La Violette
La Conseillante
Feyetit Clinet
Le Manoir de Le Gay
Montviel
Baur au Lac Vins, Adlikerstrasse 272, 8105 Regensdorf, Telefon +41 44 777 05 05, Fax +41 44 777 05 03
www.bauraulacvins.ch I information@balv.chSaint-Estèphe
Exceptional wines. Although totally different in style, Calon Ségur and Montrose are fighting
it out neck and neck for Saint-Estèphe crown, Les Ormes-de-Pez the best wine ever made in
decades.
Calon Ségur 97-99
Montrose 96-98
Cos d'Estournel 94-96
Phélan Ségur 92-94
Dame de Montrose 91-93
Les Ormes de Pez 91-92
Marquis de Calon 91-92
Lafon Rochet 90-91
Meyney 89-91
Pagodes de Cos 89-91
Tronquoy Lalande 88-90?
Capbern 88-90
Le Crock 88-90
Cos Labory 88-89
Lilian Ladouys 87-89
Pauillac
This year, the high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and the impact of the fantastic terroirs
make this appellation just irresistible, many wines very close to the 100-point mark. Some
have an amazing mineral salinity, the Haut-Bages Libéral bringing us the best wine of all
times.
Latour 98-100
Lafite Rothschild 98-99
Mouton Rothschild 98-99
Pontet Canet 97-99
Pichon Longueville Lalande 96-98+
Lynch Bages 95-96+
Pichon Longueville Baron 94-96
Les Forts de Latour 94-95
Grand Puy Lacoste 94-95
Carruades de Lafite 93-94
Clerc Milon 93-94
Baur au Lac Vins, Adlikerstrasse 272, 8105 Regensdorf, Telefon +41 44 777 05 05, Fax +41 44 777 05 03
www.bauraulacvins.ch I information@balv.chPetit Mouton 92-94
Haut Bages Libéral 92-94
Duhart Milon Rothschild 92-93
Haut Batailley 92-93
Grand Puy Ducasse 91-93
Pauillac de Latour 91-93
D'Armailhac 91-93
Pédesclaux 91-92
Echo de Lynch Bages 90-91+
Lynch Moussas 87-89
Verso de Haut Batailley 86-88
Batailley
Croizet Bages
Saint-Julien
"Easy to extract," said one winemaker. "Easy to overextract," I thought briefly. Luckily, this
was only rarely the case, but nevertheless, I had the feeling that it could happen for Bruno
Borie’s wines (the Ducru Beaucaillou, the Croix de Beaucaillou and the Lalande-Borie's
successor, the Petit Ducru). I hope I was wrong. Apart from that, the Saint-Julien struck with
its incredible consistency, the Léoville Poyferré with the best wine since the magical 2010
vintage and the Langoa Barton, the best wine from this estate I ever tasted.
Léoville Las Cases 98-99
Léoville Poyferré 97-98
Leoville Barton 96-97
Ducru Beaucaillou 95-97+??
Saint Pierre 93-95
Beychevelle 93-94
Talbot 92-94+
Langoa Barton 92-94
La Croix de Beaucaillou 92-93+??
Moulin Riche 92-93
Le Petit Lion (Cases) 91-93+
Branaire Ducru 91-92
Clos du Marquis 91-92
Lagrange 90-92
Gloria 90-91
Le Petit Ducru 88-90+??
Gruaud Larose
Baur au Lac Vins, Adlikerstrasse 272, 8105 Regensdorf, Telefon +41 44 777 05 05, Fax +41 44 777 05 03
www.bauraulacvins.ch I information@balv.chMargaux
Wow! Hats off! It was quite a rare occasion to see so many fantastic wines in this sometimes
incoherent appellation, many of them sumptuous and sexy and, undoubtedly, with some
"best buys" not to be missed. For me, Palmer is the best I've ever tasted, the same going for
the Ferrière and the Durfort-Vivens.
Palmer 97-98+
Malescot Saint Exupéry 95-96
Brane Cantenac 95-96
Lascombes 93-95
d'Issan 93-95
Rauzan Ségla 93-94+
Durfort Vivens 93-94+
Cantenac Brown 92-94
Ferrière 92-93+
Alter Ego Palmer 92-93
Giscours 91-93
Prieuré Lichine 90-92
Marquis d'Alesme Becker 90-91+?
Labégorce 89-91
Siran 88-90
La Gurgue 88-90
Paveil de Luze 88-90
Baron de Brane 88-89
Blason d'Issan 87-89
Margaux
Pavillon Rouge
Kirwan
Marquis de Terme
Dauzac
Desmirail
Boyd Cantenac
Rauzan Gassis
Du Tertre
Monbrison
Baur au Lac Vins, Adlikerstrasse 272, 8105 Regensdorf, Telefon +41 44 777 05 05, Fax +41 44 777 05 03
www.bauraulacvins.ch I information@balv.chHaut-Médoc / Médoc / Listrac / Moulis
Sociando Mallet 91-92+
Camensac 90-91
La Tour Carnet 88-90
Pontensac 88-90
Cantemerle 88-90
Chasse Spleen 88-90
Poujeaux 87-89
Goulée 87-89
Madame de Beaucaillou 87-88
Charmail
Beaumont
Chapelle de Potensac
La Lagune
Various red Bordeaux
Moulin Haut Laroque 91-92
Biac 90-92
Clos Lunelles 89-91?
Montlandrie 89-91
Villars 88-90
Les Cruzelles 88-89
La Chenade 87-89
Roc de Cambes
Pessac Léognan
As with the Margaux, I feared that the vines might have suffered seriously from the drought
and heat (due to the permeability of the soil). But as also with the Margaux, both the reds
and the whites delighted me. Once again, the Carmes Haut-Brion proved to be particularly
exciting: with 50% fermentation of the whole grape and an extraction by infusion (i.e.
without pigeage and without pumping over), Guillaume Pouthier took a different path again
this year and, as in previous years, with resounding success.
Red
Carmes Haut Brion 98-99
Smith Haut Lafitte 96-97
Haut Bailly 95-97
Baur au Lac Vins, Adlikerstrasse 272, 8105 Regensdorf, Telefon +41 44 777 05 05, Fax +41 44 777 05 03
www.bauraulacvins.ch I information@balv.chPape Clément 93-95
Malartic Lagravière 93-95
Domaine de Chevalier 92-94
Fieuzal 92-93
C de Carmes Haut Brion 89-91?
Larrivet Haut Brion 89-91
II de Haut Bailly 88-90
Olivier 88-90
La Réserve de Malartic 87-89
Les Hauts Lafite 87-88
La Mission Haut Brion
Haut Brion
Le Clarence Haut Brion
La Chapelle de Mission Haut Brion
La Tour Martillac
Le Pape
White
Smith Haut Lafitte 94-96
Pape Clément 93-94
Domaine de Chevalier 92-93
Malartic Lagravière 91-93
de Fieuzal 90-92
Olivier 89-91
Les Hauts de Smith Haut Lafitte 89-91
La Tour Martillac 88-91
La Réserve de Malartic Lagravière 88-89
Clos Floridène 87-89
La Mission Haut Brion Blanc
Haut Brion Blanc
La Clarté de Haut Brion Blanc
Carbonnieux
Various white Bordeaux
Cos d'Estournel 92-94
Aile d'argent 92-93
Lynch Bages 89-90
Pagodes de Cos d'Estournel 88-90
Paveil de Luze 86-88
Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux
Monbousquet Blanc
Baur au Lac Vins, Adlikerstrasse 272, 8105 Regensdorf, Telefon +41 44 777 05 05, Fax +41 44 777 05 03
www.bauraulacvins.ch I information@balv.chBarsac/Sauternes
The few samples I tasted suggest that 2019 will also have been a great vintage for sweet
wines.
Coutet 95-97
Laufaurie Peyraguey 93-95
Sigalas Rabaud 92-94
Doisy Védrines 92-93
La Tour blanche
Doisy Daëne
Secret de Biac
de Malle
Myrat
Raymond Lafon
Suduiraut
Nairac
Clos Haut Peyraguey
Yquem
MA/4.6.2020
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