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The mark of industry inspiration & information December 2019
£7.50
Are you being served?
Retail Services to consider
Attention seeking
How NAJ members do visual
merchandising
NAJ Awards
Revealed, the 11 worthy winners
The National
Association
of Jewellers
THE TH MARCH CLUB
Be Security Wise
WITH TH MARCH & THE NAJ
Helping to protect you, your business and your employees
An important TH March and NAJ initiative aiming to raise awareness, increase knowledge
and improve security throughout the UK Jewellery trade.
Contact TH March or the NAJ to find out more!
www.thmarch.co.uk/NAJ www.naj.co.uk/securitywise
December 2019 Opinion 3
from The Editor
highlight some inspiring retail stories, with tips and trend directions
from experts in the field. Underscoring the importance of presenting
the best face to the world, the NAJ Awards 2019 include Physical
Shop Front of the Year – one of three new award categories. Check out
all the Award shortlists on page 20.
A fabulous store, with beautiful stock and amazing, NAJ JET-trained,
staff is the key to success. The missing piece in this jeweller’s jigsaw
is ‘retail services’. If you’re not offering IRV valuations, relevant
insurance, repairs, watch straps and, maybe, ear-piercing, you are
certainly missing a trick or three. Check out page 57 for a round-up of
the added extras that will bring new customers through the door… and
have them coming back.
Elsewhere in this issue we offer you even more in the way of
information and guidance, from the impact of Brexit on hallmarking
(page 15), diamond pipeline protection (page 62) and Sustainable
H
ello, my name is Belinda and I have a teeny, tiny, Development Goals (page 34) to the benefits of NAJ membership,
hardly-anything-really confession to make… I’m a Education news and events for your 2020 calendar. Our member
trend concocter. Essentially, if I want a look, a style, a profile on page 60 throws the spotlight on fine gemstone jewellery
movement, a thing… to be, I’m not above embroidering brand Ntinga and we introduce you to a new member – The Hallmark
the facts a tad, talking it up if you like. I’m owning up now because Jewellery Group (page 49).
in this issue I’ve been able to indulge in this personal whim and
with something approaching a clear conscience. I have always loved All that and a feature on the latest, greatest jewellery trend – tiaras!
brooches, and hoped to see more of them more often in collections. Nah, just joking… I know when to stop pushing my luck. That one (and
And now – ta da! – they’re finding favour big-time. Whoops, there I I do actually love a sparkly, wear-anytime headpiece) can be saved
go again, but turn to page 26 to see my tempting pick of the latest for another day. Meanwhile, here’s wishing you a joyous and fruitful
beautiful bunch. Let’s make this happen folks! festive season and a promising New Year.
The power of positive thinking is certainly working its magic in
the world of visual merchandising. When the going gets tough, the
tough open a new store, extend or refurbish an existing one and
generally up their game to give the competition a run for its money.
As you might imagine, these days it’s as much about delivering great
customer experiences as creating beautiful spaces. On page 40 we Belinda Morris, Editor
pg
26 pg
40 pg
57
“Brooches demonstrate wearability and are not “Experience… really matters to customers. With so “Jewellers up and down the country are helping
specifically for the more mature lady… they are much choice in the retail market, vying for their to make multiples like Timpson very successful
actually very diverse accessories” attention is a full time strategic job for retailers” indeed…”
Bransom
Inside
Stars this Issue
December 2019
November and December 2018
Bransom Award winners
NEWS PROFILE
08 NAJ News 49 New Member Profile
Created in the UK, Brexit and Benevolent Society Meet The Hallmark Jewellers Group
updates
50 Hill & Hill Jewellers
11 NAJ News Altrincham’s exciting new jewellery store
Introducing the Education Steering Group
60 Fine Gemstone Jewellery
12 NAJ News We learn more about highflier Ntinga
2020 Events Calendar
66 The Last Word…
14 Industry News … goes to Scott Walter
The latest CIBJO Reports
53 Industry News
New… IJL venue, DPA CEO, Tivon website
TRENDS
26 PINterest
Brooches back? They were never out of style!
40 Visual Merchandising
How to stand out from the crowd – the new rules
54 What’s New…
… in Watches
EVENTS & SHOWS
60
20 NAJ Awards
pg The winners revealed
37 Conference 2019
Report (part 2) from the IRV’s must-attend weekend
NAJ News 5
The National
Association
of Jewellers
54
The National Association of Jewellers
10 Vyse Street
pg Birmingham
B18 6LT
0121 237 1110
www.naj.co.uk
Editor: Belinda Morris
editor@naj.co.uk
BUSINESS ADVICE
Advertising sales:
15 Hallmarking garry.lane@naj.co.uk
Post-Brexit guidance on hallmarking 07741 554 011
17 Education
Designed & produced by:
Introducing new courses
Senior Internet
www.senior.co.uk
18 Financial Planning 0115 838 9555
Cash flow is king, advises TH March
22 Member Benefits Printed by:
HPA Print Ltd
The perks of belonging, plus notes on compliance
www.hpaprint.co.uk
07525 011 589
32 JET Business Network
The importance of Business Strategy
Contributory writers:
34 Sustainable Development Goals Raji Ashwin, David Brough, Simon Forrester, Hannah
How to contribute to this global agenda McWhirter, Chris Oliver, Nysa Pradham, Lavinia Pryce
35 Gold Market Report Front Cover Image:
Gold Bank London
57 Retail Services www.gold-bank.co.uk
The little extras that create a great business +44 (0) 203 500 1111
sales@gold-bank.co.uk
62 Diamond Pipeline Integrity For further information please refer to Page 19
Ensure your products are what you say they are
The NAJ is responsible for producing The Jeweller and although every effort is
made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAJ does not accept
liability, loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed
by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should
always consult their own professional advisors. The NAJ accepts no responsibility
OPINION for the content of any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone
having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine
is printed using vegetable based inks on FSC certified paper produced from
sustainable sources
03 From the Editor
07 The CEO’S Foreword
65 Education
The latest Clarity & Success stars
jeje
TrTr lelrer
ww
usus y yr r
elel
tete etet
d d aiai
lele l sl s
adad y y
erer stsete
inin mms s
Pursuit
Pursuit innovation
innovation takes
takes the
the stress
stress –
– and
and the
the
guesswork
guesswork – – out
out of
of Christmas
Christmas sales
sales
“Our
“Our users
users –– and
and
Innovation has been a mainstay of Pursuit’s growth for over two
Innovation has been a mainstay of Pursuit’s growth for over two
decades. It has been driven by listening – and responding – to the
there
there have
have been
been over
over
decades. It has been driven by listening – and responding – to the
needs of our customers. So – we’d like to express our thanks to all the
needs of our customers. So – we’d like to express our thanks to all the
300
300 more
more this
this year
year –
–
jewellery businesses that have been the source of our success. Inspired
jewellery businesses that have been the source of our success. Inspired
by their needs, during 2020 Pursuit will be revealing even more new,
will see even more
will see even more by their needs, during 2020 Pursuit will be revealing even more new,
exciting and ground-breaking innovations, each designed to help
innovations
innovations in
in 2020”
2020”
exciting and ground-breaking innovations, each designed to help
enhance the special magic that the jewellery trade is all about.
enhance the special magic that the jewellery trade is all about.
Talk to Pursuit – and see how our success could contribute to your
Talk to Pursuit – and see how our success could contribute to your
success in 2020.
success in 2020.
See
See what
what you’re
you’re missing.
missing. Arrange
Arrange a
a demonstration.
demonstration. Call
Call Pursuit
Pursuit now
now
+
+ 44
44 (0)
(0) 1603
1603 263800
263800
Follow us
Follow us
@PursuitSoftware
@PursuitSoftware
@PursuitSoftware
@PursuitSoftware
integrated shop and online sales and stock performance monitoring
integrated shop and online sales and stock performance monitoring
www.pursuit.co.uk
www.pursuit.co.uk
December 2019 Opinion 7
CEO’s foreword
Speaking of research, it was both sobering and refreshing (a
great combination in the run-up to Christmas) to read the
British Hallmarking Council’s work on the amount of fake and
unmarked ‘gold’ jewellery for sale to UK consumers. In a previous
life I was involved in developing a relationship with some of
the online marketplaces to stop the sale of unlicensed and
dangerous chemicals to untrained end users. This is an area where
associations shine – protecting the public. Our message is that
for peace of mind, every purchase – whether online or in person –
should be from an NAJ member.
On the topic of representing the public, we’ve recently talked to a
credit card company about a Section 75 claim for a poorly-labelled
HPHT diamond – is the average consumer really going to know
what ‘HPHT’ means? Happily the card company paid out, but it
highlighted our ongoing concerns about misleading descriptors for
Bring in
jewellery products. I was so moved that I got in front of a camera to
‘star’ (ahem) in a video on diamond terminology to accompany our
forthcoming Trading Standards Assured Advice. While the wording
will change for different products, the sentiment remains the same;
Your Bling
always ensure you are selling to an informed consumer to protect
them… and you. Trust is hard to come by, and every bad actor
(no, not my starring role in this case) in our sector drives another
consumer to book holidays or buy tech rather than jewellery.
Y
To understand our consumers a little better, the NAJ has teamed
ou’d expect the National Association of Jewellers to have up with the CMJ and the Goldsmiths’ Company to carry out the
some very nice chains of office for our president and chair, largest ever UK survey of consumers’ views on jewellery to develop
alongside other items created or donated over the years; some high-profile media-friendly messaging in the run-up to
and you’d be spot on (see past issues of The Jeweller for Christmas. This will be hitting editors’ desks soon, and we’ve also
details). So it struck me that we aren’t unique. Every trade body or worked on a suite of press releases allowing NAJ members to get
professional institute I’ve previously worked for has some ‘bling’ – as some local press – we’ll be in touch on that topic to support your
my president at a former job called it – locked in a safe or tucked push for more jewellery sales.
away in a sock drawer (genuine example – sorry, TH March!). Most
won’t have had it valued in a long while, if at all; it’s not in the Right, off to do my bit for the judging in the NAJ Awards – there’s
forefront of an association CEO’s mind. a mountain of entries for several of the categories; it’s great to
see the passion and innovation in our industry highlighted. I’m
Many items will require repair or enamelling/engraving to keep looking forward to seeing you on 5th December where the double
them up to date as part of the AGM process, perhaps to list past and act of Kelsall and Forrester (the Sam Fox and Mick Fleetwood of
current post-holders, or to mend that dent when the chairman fell the jewellery sector awards circuit – ask your dad) will be wowing
over at the Christmas party. Few however will have actually done this the audience with a carefully choreographed presentation to the
repair/refurb work. Enter stage left, your friendly neighbourhood worthy winners.
jeweller.
A very prosperous Christmas and a happy and healthy 2020 to you all.
Why not contact an association local to you, inviting them to ‘bring
in their bling’ for a clean, maybe even have it valued by your in-house
IRV? It could make a great story for the local media and the relevant
trade press for that sector. You’d also be reaching every member of
that trade body, many of whom will have jewellery of their own to
value or repair (see page 57 about added value repair and valuation
services). I’m currently writing an article for association CEOs on
the ‘bling’ topic, to urge them to get theirs MOT’d by a local NAJ
member. Please let me know if you get a call, I’d be very interested to Simon Forrester CEO
see how many we get and the long-term results. National Association of Jewellers
8 NAJ News The Jeweller
Kerry Gregory keeps you Who you gonna call –
at the NAJ to get stuff done?
in the loupe about the • Want to make the most out of your
member benefits? Scott Williams, head of
PTSI Steering Group membership can ensure you’re getting the
most out of the NAJ
• Got a great idea for content for web or social
media? Ben Massey, director of marketing
and communications has been transforming
digital for the NAJ
In October, the PTSI Steering Group met Do you know what the NAJ
to catch up on developments since the last • Have expertise you want to share in The
meeting and to look at what we need to has been doing for you? Jeweller magazine? Belinda Morris, editor,
focus our efforts on going into peak season can help you get published
and 2020. To me it felt like there were two Over the last few months the NAJ has been: • Need a rogue trader investigated for bad
themes running through the day – what has in the press correcting misinformation practices? Katie Gillespie, compliance
the NAJ been doing for me and who you about synthetic diamonds; launching manager works harder than Matt Allbright
gonna call? online affordable modular courses with to weed them out
the information you need to grow your
• Want a course developed? Marie Garnett,
But both themes centre on one thing: business; visible and available at trade
head of education creates relevant and
communication. events for members to discuss their benefits
effective education that will enthuse your
and needs; constantly updating content staff
One of the most challenging aspects of and function on the website; dealing with
running any business, including a trade complaints against traders who do not Whatever you want or need, call, email,
association, is communication. What is uphold the same standards that we do and contact us via the website, or send a carrier
too much? Too little? What do you need to forging powerful links and alliances with pigeon! The NAJ is your association, working
know? Want to know? When? And how? other organisations. for you, if you don’t tell us, we don’t know.
New Year insight Benevolent Society
for NAJ Members Actions Further Funding
The NAJ’s Consumer Focus steering group has delivered In a move to further support people from the industry
a syndicated questionnaire, jointly funded by the NAJ, who have fallen on hard times, the Benevolent Society has
Goldsmiths’ Company and the CMJ, to understand why increased its regular donation to beneficiaries from £190
people buy and don’t buy jewellery. to £300 per quarter. This money makes a real difference to
those who are often suffering terrible financial hardship. It
The research, which provided 2,000+ responses, is one of is their ray of sunshine in what otherwise could be a dismal
the largest research activities to take place for the jewellery existence.
community and strongly supports the steering group’s
mission to stimulate demand for the industry. David Doyle, treasurer of the Benevolent Society and NAJ
president said: “We’re extremely thankful to the people
Adam Jacobs, of Jacobs the Jewellers in Reading who chairs
and companies that support the Benevolent Society. Only
the group said: “We’re extremely thankful to the CMJ and
through their support are we able to better assist the working
the Goldsmiths’ Company for supporting this important
people of our past, that have made our Industries what they
research activity for the good of the industry. Within the
are today."
group we’re calling the project ‘the jewellery census’, due to
its significance.
This move follows the news earlier in the year that the
“In the new year members will be able to log in to the insight Benevolent Society, the charitable arm of the British Allied
pages of the NAJ website members area and understand Trades Federation, launched the Fuller Foundation. This
exactly why people do and do not buy jewellery in their Foundation provides funding for professionals wishing to
region, divisible by key demographics. The research is move from a middle to senior management role and will
part one of our two-part plan. We will now drive two key support activities such as an MBA. Potential applicants can
campaigns; for those who buy jewellery to buy more, and request an application form from the Benevolent Society
those who don’t currently buy jewellery to start to do so.” secretary. Part of the process is to evidence a strong business
case encompassing a strategic development plan, which
To visit the NAJ’s insight pages (members only), visit delivers both commercial and non-commercial impact for
naj.co.uk/insight their business.
December 2019 NAJ News 9
Derbyshire-based label and ticket
manufacturer, Magpie Europe, last month
published its strong finish for 2019 and is now
Magpie Europe enters
looking to make further progress in 2020.
Magpie, which offers all NAJ members 15
2020 in strong position with
per cent off labels and 10% off printers, has
recently taken on a new apprentice, passed
its ISO 9001 certification, and exceeded its
new contract, apprentice
waste target for the year. The target, which
stood at 2 per cent, was broken with final
results of 1.3 per cent, meaning a reduced
and certification
cost for manufacturing products can be
passed on to Magpie’s clients.
both for our commercial benefit, and that of fulfil ongoing business as well as the new
Caren Colabella, director of Magpie Europe the customers. Some clients are reporting contract. For 2020, we’d like to make further
said: “Late last year we a difficult time out there, so we felt it strives forward and we’ve got our eyes keenly
took the company decision to put all of our necessary to make the changes in order on NAJ’s Created in the UK, getting out of
employees through the NVQ level three in remain a key part of the retail jeweller’s the office to see new and existing customers
Business Improvement Techniques in order business.”
to deliver impact into the Magpie business and that all-important waste figure, which will
be a tough objective to beat, I’m sure.”
The company, which was shortlisted for
the NAJ Service Provider of the Year
Magpie has also recently redesigned its
Award, has also recently won a significant
contract within an associated trade to website, gemtags.co.uk, featuring a bold new
the jewellery industry, which remains look, which will certainly help the business
core to its long-term plan. trailblaze its way into 2020.
Sharing its objectives for 2020, To claim your Magpie Europe
Caren said: “We had to bring discount, call 0121 237 1110
in a new apprentice to help or email membership@naj.co.uk
A big welcome to… Created in the UK
The membership team would like to
Since its launch at IJL in September, the NAJ has experienced more than 100
welcome all of our latest new NAJ members
registers of interest.
below – we wish them all a long and
prosperous future with the Association!
The scheme is available for manufacturers, designers and retailers to bolt
on to their annual subscription. As part of the additional subscription, items
Ballantyne Diamonds – Retailer
can be marked ‘Created in the
Code by Edge – Supplier UK’ and the logo can be used
Eternally Elusive – Retailer in point of sale and marketing
materials. ‘Created in the UK’ can
Guardian Brands – Supplier also feature as an advanced filter
Bello Creations – Designer in the new Find a Jeweller tool
online. Likewise, retailers can use
Elliot Brown Watches – Supplier
the Created in the UK brand in
PK Jewels UK Ltd – Supplier their marketing materials and add
Philip Lloyd Jewellers – Retailer the filter to their NAJ profile tool.
William and Julia Shaw Jewellers – Retailer Members can join the Created
Dira London – Retailer in the UK scheme as part of
membership renewals, and
Want more from your membership? Visit also join directly. For more
naj.co.uk/benefits to find out more about information visit
the great benefits you’re entitled to. naj.co.uk/created
Exclusive Offer to NAJ Members
GE330
Use the GE330 to print your own
jewellery pricing labels
• Package includes:
• Free label design software - Jewellers Edition
• 1,000 Jewellery labels
• Ink ribbon
£325.00
Price excludes carriage + VAT
Offer ends 31st December 2019
GemTAGS
c/o Magpie Europe Ltd
Unit E, Heage Road Industrial Estate, Heage Road, Ripley, Derbyshire DE5 3GH
Tel: 01773 749237 Email: info@magpie-europe.comDecember 2019 Business Advice 11
The Education
Steering Group
In the third in our series introducing the
Association’s Steering Groups, member Nysa
Pradham and vice-chair Chris Oliver explain their
aspirations for education in our industry.
Nysa Pradham, head of Education,
Gem-A
“There have been many developments in the gems and jewellery
trade and this trend continues at a fast pace. The whole industry is
increasingly aware of the need for education to extend right along
the trade pipeline. The consumer is becoming more aware as we live
in the age of technology and information explosion. Therefore, there
is a serious need for education and retailers are acutely conscious of
Chris Oliver, head of Professional Training, this need.
Goldsmiths’ Centre
Education is and always has been my passion and I feel that in any
"The decision to join the NAJ’s Education Steering Group was a industry it is quintessential for an individual’s professional and
relatively straightforward one. On both a personal and professional personal growth, to enable them to develop the competencies and
level, it is flattering to be approached by an organisation such as expertise needed to grow and professionalise the trade. At Gem-A
the NAJ to assist with the Education Steering Group and I hope the our efforts and vision has been to continually develop our education
approach is a reflection on the work that the Goldsmiths’ Centre has offering to cater to the needs of the trade and to support the
undertaken around education and training since its opening. development and growth of the global industry through education
and research.
My passion for this industry stems from the individuals that aspire to
and currently work within it. The level of dedication and enthusiasm In that I am excited to be part of the NAJ Education Steering
which is in evidence across the many different facets of the sector Group as it provides a platform for us to exchange ideas, discuss
inspires us to keep pursuing the most innovative and meaningful opportunities and challenges and brainstorm solutions for education
forms of education and training, which can enable an individual to within the trade and support each other in our endeavour for
achieve their potential. No one business or individual is the same excellence in education. Through this Group, I am hoping I will
and it is this uniqueness which makes us want to drive change. be able to contribute my ideas and aspirations for gemmology
education, but at the same time learn and develop the network that
I hope that by joining the NAJ Education Steering Group both can help us achieve our collective ambitions for the trade.”
myself and colleagues on it can provide opportunities for NAJ
members and the wider industry which are both relevant and of high
quality. In working for the Goldsmiths’ Centre, we have always seen
significant value in collaboration, and I see this in exactly the same
way for this Steering Group; education and training is not unique
to any one organisation, and is a cornerstone of this industry’s
growth potential. Our aim should be to work with and alongside For more information on the NAJ’s Steering
other organisations to innovate rather than duplicate and equip Groups or how to get involved visit: naj.co.uk/
those passionate about our industry with the type of training that
empowers them to start or continue a career." about or email: membership@naj.co.uk12 NAJ News The Jeweller
What’s on Our events calendar is filling up fast, with
the NAJ team hosting more ‘NAJ Live’
networking events around the country.
in 2020
We are going to get out and meet more
of you face-to-face, with the sole aim of
ensuring members are getting the most
out of their benefits.
January March June
12th – 15th: Giving and Living - Exeter 4th – 8th: Hong Kong International Jewellery Show* 2nd – 5th: The JCK Show - Las Vegas, USA
- Hong Kong
14th: NAJ and London Assay Office Hallmarking 11th: NAJ AGM - Tower of London
Talk - Goldsmiths’ Hall, London 11th: CMJ Networking day + NAJ Live - Sheffield 11th: NAJ Live - London
17th – 20th: Bijorhca, Paris - France 17th: NAJ Education Awards - Goldsmiths’ Hall, 20th – 22nd: NAJ Summit - East Midlands
London
17th – 22nd: Vicenzaoro - Vicenza
19th – 21st: Scotland’s Trade Fair Spring - Glasgow 18th: JET Practical Training Day - London Assay
Office July
23rd: JET Practical Training Day - Sheffield Assay
TBC: NAJ Peru Trip - Peru
Office
2nd: UK Jewellery Awards - Tower of London
8th: CMJ Networking Event + NAJ Live - Belfast
April
February 19th – 22nd: Home and Gift - Yorkshire Events
Centre, Harrogate
9th: NAJ and Retail Jeweller Golf day + NAJ Live -
2nd–6th: Jewellery and Watch - NEC, Birmingham 20th: NAJ Live - Harrogate
Forest of Arden Marriott Hotel & Country Club, West
3rd: NAJ Live - Resorts World, Birmingham Midlands
25th–28th: Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair -
2nd – 5th: NY NOW - New York, USA 22nd: CMJ Networking Day + NAJ Live - Edinburgh Hong Kong
12th – 18th: NAJ India Trip - Asia 30th – 5th May: Baselworld* - Basel, Switzerland
13th - 16th: IIJS Signature Show - Mumbai India
August
14th – 17th: Inhorgenta*- Munich, Germany
May
16th – 17th: Jewellery Cut Live - London 2nd – 3rd: CMJ Autumn Trade Event - Birmingham
16th – 17th: CMJ Spring Trade Event - Birmingham TBC: NAJ Live (at the Horses) - Chepstow TBC: NAJ Live - Southampton
TBC: Family Fun Day - Midlands
September
Event Key
13th – 15th: IJL - Alexandra Palace, London
NAJ event or collaboration 14th: NAJ Live - London
NAJ LIVE
Event the NAJ is exhibiting/ EVENTS
hosting at
2020 October
other events with the NAJ
in attendance
TBC: NAJ Live - Manchester
5th – 19th: NAJ Sri Lanka Trip - Sri Lanka
To see more information
November
on the listed events, and
view the NAJ’s new TBC: NAJ Live - Cambridge
digital event calendar
visit naj.co.uk/whats-on
December
*BATF pavilion space available 3rd: Benevolent Society Ball - Solihullgold
bangles
UK 0800 1956771 | ROI 1800 625163 | inf o @ c u rt e i s . com
w w w. c urt ei s . c o m14 Industry News The Jeweller
CIBJO Reports
Ahead of its 2019 Congress in Bahrain last month, The World internationally, and with frameworks that
govern other industries around the globe. It is
Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) has released a number of important that jewellery industry companies
fully understand their responsibilities under
reports on key industry issues. We outline four here: these complex sets of expectations, and
they communicate them effectively and
directly with their supply-chain partners and
ultimately the consumer,” author Tiffany
Diamond Commission – Special Report Coloured Stone Special Report Stevens writes.
This report focuses predominantly on Gemstone variety names are being used Noting that it is the consumers’ right to
what it refers to as the ‘faultline’ between for marketing purposes, with few if any know how the how their jewellery and its
diamonds mined in nature and man-made agreed-to gemmological standards. components affect the environment and the
diamonds. “Because laboratory-grown Unsubstantiated coloured gemstone variety lives of people as it journeys along the supply
diamonds prices were deliberately names are the “biggest challenge our chain, she states that being forthright, fully
benchmarked against the price of natural trade is facing right now,” with “numerous descriptive and making all disclosures clear
diamonds at the outset, the risk exists that instances of the same descriptive names and easy to understand is imperative.
the consuming public will continue to being assigned according to different
associate the one with the other, even after standards, each time in accordance with
the economics have changed,” it states. “The the individual guidelines of various Pearl Special Report
price war in the laboratory-grown diamond gemmological laboratories.
sector could have the effect of depressing Prepared by the CIBJO Pearl Commission,
the value of goods in the natural diamond “Starting with more classical descriptive this looks at the growing impact of
sector. terms, like ‘pigeon blood’ and ‘royal blue,’ environmental and conservationist factors
some laboratories began developing their on the pearl sector, noting that these pose
“This makes the task of disconnecting the own nomenclature, creating new descriptive challenges, but also provide opportunities for
natural diamond and the laboratory-grown names for a wide range of colours. the industry.
Apparently, this is a mutually beneficial
diamond sectors even more important…
business strategy for both the laboratories In the Philippines, for instance, climate
from our professional perspective, and
and the dealers. and environmental changes have had a
from the perspective of the consumer. The
appeal of both products is different, and so significant effect on pearl production.
“It is imperative that the industry act These changes present both challenges
clearly are the economics. They both should
quickly before consumer confidence is and opportunities – the main challenge is
be provided the opportunity to thrive, in
compromised. CIBJO’s Coloured Stone the lower volume of production that will be
harmony alongside each other.”
Commission will work in close collaboration available for distribution to the global market.
with the organisation’s Gemmological On the other hand, this also serves as an
The report calls for the creation of agreed- Commission to establish standards and opportunity because, with lower biomass
to rules of engagement between the parameters for variety names,” the report density, comes the potential to achieve a
two diamond sectors in marketing their states. higher quality output.
products, and warns about pitching one
as being more ethical or environmentally The report also looks at natural pearls. While
acceptable than the other. “This is not only Ethics Special Report rare, nowadays they most commonly are a
a self-destructive marketing strategy, but it by-product of the seafood industry, and as
is also questionable in terms of the claims “Responsible business standards being such could be subject to restrictions imposed
being made and the data upon which they applied in the jewellery industry are by the Convention on International Trade in
are based. meshing further and further with those used Endangered Species of Wild Fauna (CITES).
“Proper rules of engagement need to be
created,” the report continues, suggesting
that one would be for all sides to agree
that any stone is neither ethical nor
environmentally friendly. “These qualities
refer to the way in which they are mined
or manufactured. The onus of responsible
behaviour always falls upon the individuals
and companies mining or synthesising,
processing and marketing these products.”
To see the full reports visit www.cibjo.org/congress2019/special-reports/December 2019 Business Advice 15
The British Hallmarking Council sets out best practice for The CCM mark can be applied to new
articles along with UK Assay Office marks
UK jewellery importers and exporters, around possible or as an addition to articles already bearing
UK hallmarks.
scenarios post-Brexit.
If you are importing from any of the above
countries, we recommend that post-Brexit
Hallmarking
you request a convention mark on your
goods, or you submit them to a UK Assay
Office for hallmarking before placing them
on the market.
Requirements Those exporting to any of the above
countries, we recommend that you apply a
convention mark to your goods, post-Brexit.
Post-Brexit The UK exemption weights of 7.78gm for
silver, 1gm for gold/palladium and 0.5gm for
platinum, may not apply in other countries.
For example, in the Republic of Ireland
there are no exemption weights. This
means that any stock destined for southern
The current situation in countries who are members of the Ireland must bear a CCM.
Convention.
There are currently two separate ways in What about EU countries that are not
which hallmarks applied in one country Managed Deal Exit members of the Convention?
can be recognised as being equivalent in
another country: If the UK negotiates a managed exit from Luxemburg and Germany do not require
the EU with an EU customs union, that any hallmark as a pre-market authorisation.
European Court of Justice (ECJ) ruling relationship may continue to be subject to
the ECJ ruling which currently provides In France a hallmark is a legal requirement.
The ECJ has ruled that EU member the basis for recognition of domestic marks. Importers must register with the Bureau
states must recognise each other’s marks There are also likely to be cut-offs agreed de Garantie. In Spain a hallmark is a legal
subject to providing an equivalent level over a set period, if there are going to be requirement. Importers must register with
of protection and being intelligible to changes to the current situation. Until the an assay office in Spain. There are legal
consumers. Most EU countries, with a exact nature of any future deal is known the requirements regarding hallmarking in
requirement for compulsory hallmarking, exact effect cannot be determined. Belgium. Details can be found via the
will accept UK hallmarks as equivalent to Federal Ministry of Finance.
their own. The UK also accepts many EU Delayed Exit
member state hallmarks. Note: At time of going to press, the final UK-
In the case of a delayed exit, the current EU relationship is unknown. Therefore, the
The Common Control Mark (CCM) recognition to UK marks by our EU above sets out best practice around possible
scenarios that may or may not transpire.
neighbours and vice versa would continue.
The Convention mark (CCM) can only be This information relates to hallmarks
applied by a signatory country within its only. Separate advice should be sought on
national boundary – the Convention is an customs arrangements.
agreement between Governments who
What action can importers and
have ratified the terms of the treaty and has exporters consider taking now? www.gov.uk/government/organisations/
technical rules on testing and marking. A british-hallmarking-council
signatory country applying the CCM has The CCM mark applied by a UK Assay
followed these common technical rules – all Office is currently accepted in all EU
other signatory countries will accept the member states because it is a UK hallmark.
articles directly onto their market. You can start applying a CCM mark to your
goods now with no impact on your current New Era for Hallmarking
import or export requirements.
Post-Brexit, it will continue to be accepted In a joint initiative, the NAJ, the
What might change post-Brexit?
by those EU member States who are also IRV and the London Assay Office
signatories to the Convention. will come together on 14th January,
No Deal Exit
2020 at Goldsmiths' Hall, London,
If the UK leaves the EU without any deal, Which countries are covered by the to discuss the very many facets of
all the UK’s obligations to recognise EU CCM? hallmarking. London Assay Master,
marks would cease and vice versa. In this Robert Organ, will talk about the past,
case we anticipate that any product already Current member states of the Convention present and future of hallmarking;
on the market pre-Brexit would be legal and are: Austria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech NAJ CEO Simon Forrester will
already be in free circulation. Republic, Denmark, Finland, Hungary, outline new developments and Kerry
Ireland, Israel, Latvia, Lithuania, Gregory of Gemmology Rocks will
New stock entering the UK market would Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, clarify the realities and logistics
require a UK-hallmark and in the case of Slovak Republic, Slovenia, Sweden, of hallmarking within a jewellery
stock exported to other EU countries, it Switzerland, and the UK.
business. To attend this free event,
would require a mark recognised by those Serbia and Italy have undergone
visit: naj.co.uk/whats-on
countries. The CCM will continue to be assessment, and been invited to join but are
recognised in the UK and to be recognised in the process of ratifying the treaty.Got Christmas cracked?
Get set for 2020!
We’ve got it to hand.
OVER
19,000
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cooksongold.com
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0345 100 1122
Visit our
StoresDecember 2019 Education 17
Creating Practical Skills
The updated programme will enable
the trainee valuer to study the theory of
jewellery valuation and appraisal using
attractive and detailed learning materials,
and Proficiency in the before spending time with an experienced
and dedicated valuer to start putting their
newly acquired learning into practice… and
Jewellery Industry
building confidence in the process.
A key benefit of this practical learning, in
the small-group workshop, will be to allow
the trainee to discuss and process new
information with like-minded colleagues.
They can support, and be supported, by
each other and perhaps form peer networks
Jewellery industry professionals are Which is why the NAJ is launching a new that they can draw on throughout their
innately creative people, inspired by qualification – Foundations of Appraisal professional lives as valuers.
handling precious metals, gemstones and Practice (Jewellery, Silverware and
diamonds; understanding their properties, Watches) – in January 2020. This revitalised The Foundations of Appraisal Practice
their value and how they can be worked qualification will incorporate learning from (Jewellery, Silverware and Watches) is a
into beautiful pieces. Studying alone can’t the existing Certificate of Appraisal Theory pre-requisite for membership of the Institute
develop this awareness and learning – with (CAT), which it will supercede, as well as a of Registered Valuers. However, CAT will
touching, feeling and interacting with three-day interactive `practical valuation continue to be accepted for membership of
jewellery comes appreciation. techniques’ workshop. the IRV.
We are sure that this new qualification
will help trainees be better prepared for
the submission of their sample valuations,
which also continue to be a pre-requisite for
membership.
To find out more about this new
qualification, as well as the invaluable
JET Practical Training days for all new
and existing JET students, visit naj.
co.uk/qualifications. Remember, funding
for courses may be available through
the Benevolent Society and the NAJ’s
Educational Trust. Visit www.naj.co.uk/
charities for details.
can benefit hugely from mentoring and the
sharing of experience.
Business Course for These might be craft graduates, new starters
with skills but little business experience,
small businesses with big ideas, hobbyists
Creative Entrepreneurs
turning professional, those starting second
careers and new businesses that need help
in growing to the next stage.
The pilot programme for the 12-week
course will run in early 2020 at a special
The Birmingham Assay Office is supporting have talent and creative skills and need introductory price of £1,200 per person.
and facilitating a new course aimed at some hands-on direction to establish their Applications for the course (with CV
artisans from all sectors, which has been put business or grow it to the next level.” including qualifications and career
together by jewellery industry figure and history) must be received no later
serial entrepreneur Dr Gordon Hamme. The concept of the course follows the than 18th December 2019. Visit www.
principles of the successful Finnish course, anchorcertacademy.net for applications/info
“We are really excited about this which Hamme studied. It is designed to
programme, which we believe will fill a be more fluid, flexible and applied than a The NAJ Educational Trust and the
large gap in the jewellery and other craft standard business course and therefore Benevolent Society trustees welcome
industries,” says Marion Wilson, director of more suited to the creative mind. It is ideal individual applications to part fund the
AnchorCert Academy at Birmingham Assay for self-motivated, dynamic individuals pilot course. Visit: https://www.naj.co.uk/
Office. “It is designed to support those who who need some business direction and who financial-support for more information.18 Financial Planning The Jeweller
Cash Flow
is King…
… and it’s an important factor in the financial security
of your business, says Steven Clemence FPFS of
jewellery insurance specialist TH March.
Y ou have got all your security
sorted out and you have insured
your stock and your premises,
making sure there are no
hidden surprises waiting just around the
corner to trip you up. Now may be the time
shareholder agreement. You might have to
look at your partnership agreement or your
memorandum and articles and be prepared
to update them, just as you would update
your own will if circumstances have changed
or what you read isn’t what you expect to
to concentrate on growing your business or happen. Taking out Key Person Cover and
adding further protection for what you have Business Loan Protection shouldn’t just be
already built up. It’s easier said than done left to when your investors require it; you
to run and build a business, but it is also all should require it to protect your business
too easy to run into trouble, especially if, for and your family. If you are growing your
whatever reason, the cash flow dries up at a business it will be down to your hard work
crucial time. and determination to succeed that will
make it happen. In the short term it will be
A crisis in your business can often be a sacrifice in time to your loved ones, so
averted if you have insured the most why not protect their future and the value of
important assets – not your stock and what you are building up – ‘the family silver’
premises, but you and your key people, – while you are still getting there. Steve’s career as a financial
against death, critical illness or long-term adviser stretches back to 1987
illness. Make sure, through insurance, that Having a Financial Planner on board to and he has been with TH March
there is money available when it is needed sort out your Business Protection needs for 10 years. A chartered financial
most to get your business through the cash will help you put the right plans in place. If planner, Steve is also a Fellow of
crunch caused by a crisis. they go to the whole of the market they can the Personal Finance Society, (the
select the best cover and provider for your FPFS after his name). The award
Just as an individual should have a will, needs. You’ll probably want someone with of a Fellowship reflects the level
you need to think about what would experience in this area and you will also of advanced study undertaken by
be happening in the business today if want to run any recommendation by your Steve together with his academic
accountant, but the right advice will allow achievement, knowledge, ethics
something had happened to you or your
and experience.
business’ partners/fellow directors/key you to make sure the right cover is paid to
people/shareholders yesterday. It should the right people (or your company) at the
be written down in a partnership or right time.
For information sheets on Key Person, Shareholder Protection, Long Term Income
Protection, Business Loan Protection and Relevant Life Cover please contact Steve
on 01822 855555 or at steven.clemence@thmarch.co.ukLeading Gold buyers in London, specialising in buying gold from traders
paying the best prices nationwide.
We offer the most robust payout service for traders.
In house Melting, Assaying, 100% payout upfront, all within a few minutes.
We are also gold refiners so we can offer Gold Refining Services, and reduced
rate gold bars and coins.
215 The Broadway, Southall, Middlesex, UB1 1NB
0203 500 1111
Sales@gold-bank.co.uk
Gold bank half page ad.indd 1 12/11/2019 11:57:0620 NAJ Awards 2019 The Jeweller
Victorious!
The waiting is over…
we can now reveal
the 11 worthy winners
in this year’s NAJ
Awards, headline
sponsored by Nivoda.
Corporate Social Responsibility Initiative
MyriamSOS, Aqua Wave ring of the Year – Monica Vinader
For delivering an activity that has
contributed to wider society, a specific
community or a cause through raising
awareness, making a contribution of time or
Held during the festive, fun-filled, fund- Physical Shop Front of the Year – Drakes
raising Benevolent Ball, the glittering funds, or other associated initiatives.
ceremony saw three new categories join For being able to enhance or maintain an
the 2019 Awards: Innovation of the Year, “Monica Vinader not only champions
excellent physical presence which clearly
Corporate Social Responsibility Initiative of charitable causes by collaborating
communicates its brand proposition to
the Year and Physical Shop Front of the Year commercially with charities, ie Women for
the intended target audience in a physical
– all in the ‘Organisation’ section. Women International, it is dedicated to
setting.
maximising its social impact within the
And here are all the NAJ Award winners: supply chain network.”
“A strong, powerful frontage from this
family-run independent, is beautifully
complemented by seasonal graphics to really
Shortlist: Anchor & Crew, Lebrusan Studio,
capture the attention of passers-by.”
Nova Silver and Pugata Jewellery
Sponsored by: Pursuit
Shortlist: Hill & Hill, Drakes, Lister
Horsfall, Maunder Watch Company, Time
& Motion Jewellers
Sponsored by: VM and Events Website of the Year – Bond Jewellery &
Diamonds
For significantly enhancing or maintaining
Innovation of the Year – MyriamSOS
an excellent web presence
which clearly communicates the company’s
For a company that has made a significant
brand proposition to the intended target
addition or change to their business that has
audience across multiple devices.
delivered a positive impact.
“An expertly designed and built website
“The Aqua Wave ring designed MyriamSOS,
which is very engaging for the user. The use
in collaboration with the Osmium Institute,
of video clips provides great visuals and
is one of very few jewellery pieces globally
interactivity. High-quality images and deep
containing osmium.”
levels of information.”
Shortlist: Akansha Sethi and De Beers
Shortlist: Lebrusan Studio, Anchor & Crew,
Group Industry Services
Ruffs and Purely Diamonds
Awards Trophy Sponsored by: Clarity and Success
Sponsored by: IJLDecember 2019 NAJ Awards 2019 21
Company Awards Individual Awards Workshop Professional of the Year
– Alexander Wood, apprentice to
Nathanial Groves
These awards are given to the most These awards are given to a jewellery
“Alexander is an exemplary apprentice
outstanding companies in the UK and professional and/or team that consistently
mounter, demonstrating ingenuity and
are split into these different categories to demonstrate a high level of professionalism,
exquisite craftsmanship while working on
recognise companies that feature throughout integrity and honesty as part of the UK
25 pieces during the year, winning GC&DC
the jewellery and watch value chain. jewellery community. Individual awards are
awards and completing his masterpiece to
split into different categories to recognise
present to the Goldsmiths’ Company.”
individuals that feature throughout the
Jewellery and/or Watch Supplier of the jewellery value chain.
Shortlist: Anthony Dellow, Richard Soden
Year – Hockley Mint and Peter Byrne
Sponsored by: Presman Mastermelt
“Firmly positioned as a home-grown, British Sales Person of the Year – Tracey Jones
manufacturer, it consistently delivers (Purely Diamonds)
customer centric jewellery solutions, running
rings around the competition.” “A career investment clearly demonstrated The shortlists, selected by the NAJ editorial
through the satisfaction her customers team, didn’t disappoint. Simon Forrester, NAJ
Shortlist: Anchor & Crew, Ntinga, Unique enjoy. Seen as ‘invaluable’ to the team, her CEO, described the entries as ‘competitive’
& Co and Clogau Gold knowledge and emotional intelligence is a across the board, and showing ‘true business
Sponsored by: Inhorgenta sure-fire winner.” impacts. “These were great submissions
and all with their own unique strengths and
Shortlist: Craig Cohen (Ntinga), Emma creativity. What a showcase of innovation!”
Service Provider of the Year – Williamson (Lucy Quartermaine) he says.
Gemmology Rocks Sponsored by: Windiam
The NAJ Awards would not be possible
“Kerry Gregory’s energy, passion and without the support of NAJ members and
empathy really stand out. Gemmology Rocks Team of the Year – The PA Jewellery sponsors, and in particular we welcomed
doesn’t just deliver education and support, Team online diamond marketplace Nivoda as
it gets to the heart of clients’ businesses headline sponsor. Nivoda, which operates
and delves deeper to find out the biggest “There is clear evidence of the team pride globally with offices in London, Mumbai and
challenges they face, and what they truly in going the extra mile, working together to Hong Kong, has a vision to build a trusted
need to succeed.” exceed expectations and supporting and marketplace for the jewellery industry, where
respecting each other.” suppliers and retailers come to find everything
Shortlist: Magpie Europe, Presman they need to best serve their customers and
Mastermelt, Clark Diamonds and Pursuit Shortlist: Charlotte Cornelius, Clogau strengthen their profits.
Sponsored by: Parify Gold, The Jewellery Cut and Purely
Diamonds “I’m extremely thankful to award sponsors
Sponsored by: T.H. March Nivoda, Windiam, Clogau, Presman
Retailer of the Year – Purely Diamonds, Mastermelt, TH March, Parify, Inhorgenta,
Manchester Hockley Mint, Clarity & Success, Pursuit,
Designer of the Year – Julien Riad International Jewellery London and VM &
“Scoring 100 per cent in the judge’s review, Sahyoun Events Ltd, many of whom have shown long
Purely Diamonds was praised for being an term commitment to this event. Thanks also
extremely pleasant shopping experience; “Exciting and innovative jewellery with
goes to the trophy and Champagne sponsor,
remembered for the beautiful rings, excellent a strong brand identity to support it –
Champions UK,” Forrester adds.
prices and personal one-to-one touch. “I encapsulating everything that is good about
came away smiling.” UK contemporary jewellery making.”
The winners were presented with a
Shortlist: Clogau Gold, John McKay Shortlist: Erica Sharpe, Arabel Lebrusan, beautifully stylish megalith pewter trophy
Jewellers and Time & Motion Jewellers Charlotte Cornelius, Vicki Smith kindly sponsored by branding agency
Sponsored by: Hockley Mint Sponsored by: Clogau Champions (UK).
Sponsors22 Member Benefits The Jeweller
Get the Most from
your Membership
Introducing the Keep an eye on the Find a Jeweller 2.0
NAJ community market with Mintel Since the launch of the new NAJ website in
barometer, Find a reports November 2018, the team has been working
hard to refine areas of the website in order
to maximise exposure and conversions for
Jeweller 2.0 and Mintel has been providing substantial
industry data reports regarding the industry
members.
a reminder of your retail market for many years, giving
invaluable insight for businesses on areas
An increasingly popular feature is the Find
a Jeweller search, which has just received a
Better Business that are seeing success or decline. significant update. Because each NAJ member
has a unique, customisable profile, we’ve taken
Support Service. According to Mintel’s latest report (2019),
demand for jewellery and watches in the
on feedback from both the membership and
the consumer to amend the search console and
UK has increased; sales were up 2.9 per cent now offer advanced filters such as ‘Created in
in 2018 and growth is expected to be even the UK’, ‘Gold Standard’ and ‘RJC Certification’
stronger in 2019. In fact, Mintel estimates highlighting to consumers and the trade,
that the market will increase by 3.5 per cent members’ credentials.
NAJ Insight Tools – in 2019, bringing its value to £5.9 billion,
from £5.7 billion 12 months previous.
Find a Jeweller 2.0 brings together suppliers,
Barometer retailers, designers and associates; rather than
have multiple search pages, all members will
Keeping up to date with the latest trends be under one roof, with the improved console
and sales figures can help future-proof filtering results accordingly.
We are excited to introduce the newest feature your business, allowing you to predict the
to the NAJ website – the Jewellery Retailer upcoming season and adjust your strategies Good news for the NAJ team is for the
Barometer. This community barometer is accordingly. increasing numbers of consumer enquiries
updated quarterly and is available for all NAJ
into the office, the ‘email results’ button will
members to view in the Member Area of the NAJ members can take advantage of the send the results directly into the mailbox of the
website, in the form of several charts. Mintel report with 25 per cent off the full customer for their information. If you haven’t
price (£1,995). To claim your discount code, updated your profile yet, now is the time to do
This activity aims to understand the issues contact marketing@naj.co.uk. so in order to stand out from the crowd.
that retailers are facing and how they
are affecting business. For example, the
barometer looks at whether members have
reported sales increasing during the last
quarter along with staff hours and whether NAJ members can take advantage of the The new and updated Find a Jeweller is
these changes were expected by the business. Mintel report with 25 per cent off the full now live, and members can use the step by
price (£1,995). To claim your discount step ‘update your profile’ tool by visiting
Alongside current happenings, the barometer code, contact marketing@naj.co.uk naj.co.uk/updatemyprofile.
also looks at future developments such as
whether businesses are looking to sell or buy
stores, recruit more staff, or enrol on training,
which complements the ‘optimism index’;
feedback on how optimistic members are
about the next quarter of trading.
If you are a retail business interested in
taking part in this exercise, look out for
our barometer alert in your quarterly NAJ
newsletter.
To submit your answers and
view the latest report visit
naj.co.uk/barometerYou can also read
