Arizona: Sky Island Winter Birding | Trip Report
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
Arizona: Sky Island Winter Birding | Trip Report
February 6-12, 2022 | Written by Bob Meinke
With guides Bob Meinke and Rick Weiman, and tour participants Judy, Yvonne, Laurie,
Pam, Barbara, Mark, Patsi, Dirk, and Kelly
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.com
Sunday, February 6: Pick-up at Tucson International Airport | Birding at Tucson
Mountain Park (Gate’s Pass and Brown Mountain Trailhead) | Desert Meadows
Park (Green Valley) | Arrive at Amado Territory Inn
As the tour start date approached, it became clear that our week together was going to feature some ideal
weather. While mornings would be chilly, as expected for this time of year in southern Arizona, the forecast
was for clear, sunny skies, with comfortable daytime temperatures for birding.
Several of us had arrived in Arizona a day or more before the start of the trip, and were already enjoying an
informal introduction to the Sonoran Desert, before we met at the Tucson Airport to greet those flying in
today. Tucson’s airport is spacious, seldom crowded, and easy to navigate, and the group was soon
gathered in a waiting area not far from the luggage carousels. After brief introductions, we quickly headed
for our vans in the nearby parking lot, and loaded up.
As a quick aside, we’ve included Yvonne’s name among our participants listed on the cover page. At the
very last minute, Yvonne, who was slated to join her friend Judy on the tour, was blindsided by a faulty
home furnace. Yvonne lives on the east slope of the Sierra Nevada Range, at over 4,000 feet, and leaving
her house unheated in mid-winter was not an option. But try as she might, it was impossible for her to get
the furnace fixed before her flight to Arizona, and she was ultimately unable to join us. Judy kept Yvonne
updated as the tour progressed, and in a sense she ended up a participant in absentia, so to speak. So it
seemed appropriate to
recognize her here.
Anyway, Yvonne hopes to
join a Naturalist Journeys
monsoon tour in Arizona
this coming summer, when
home heating issues
shouldn’t be a problem!
We were fortunate today
(as well as tomorrow) to
have local birding expert
and professional guide
Richard Fray joining us.
Richard is based not far
from Nogales, about an
hour south of Tucson near
the Mexican border. He
has been guiding birders in
Arizona for many years,
and considering the birding season here was well underway, we were fortunate he could take the time to
help out for a couple days. Bob and Rick deferred to Richard this afternoon, and he soon had us heading
west from the airport to Tucson Mountain Park, a rugged expanse of Saguaro and cholla scrub set amongst
boulder-strewn slopes. We would be seeing birds here in the low desert environment that we wouldn’t find
again on the tour, with our main target being the Gilded Flicker, a regional endemic limited to the Sonoran
Desert in Arizona and adjacent Mexico.
Stopping in at Gate’s Pass, we walked a short distance to an overlook, and our birding tour was underway!
As we kept watch for the flicker (it had been seen here the previous week by Richard), Mourning Dove,
Common Raven, and a soaring Red-tailed Hawk were our first ticks for the trip. We also saw a particularly
confiding Rock Wren, as well as several regional specialties including Gila Woodpecker (the first of many to
come), Verdin, Cactus Wren, Curve-billed Thrasher, Canyon Towhee, Black-throated Sparrow, and a pair
of beautiful Pyrrhuloxia, a desert relative of the Northern Cardinal.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.com
The flicker never showed, and after an hour we moved on
to another stop in the park, at Brown Mountain Trailhead.
Soon after starting our walk, we had close-up views of
several Black-throated Sparrows, rivaling Lark Sparrows as
the most vividly marked sparrow species in Arizona. We
also had our first look at Costa’s Hummingbird, a tiny
species essentially limited in the U.S. to the hottest desert
habitats of Arizona and California. After additional
sightings of Canyon Towhee, Verdin, and a pair of
acrobatic Red-tailed Hawks, Richard whirled and pointed
out our first (and only, as it turned out) Gilded Flicker!
With this species in the bag, we turned and headed back for
the vans to continue our journey south.
We made one last stop before calling it a day, at Desert
Meadows Park, situated in a grove of mesquite and palo
verde in the retirement town of Green Valley, about 20
miles south of Tucson.
Our highlights here included three stunning Vermillion
Flycatchers (two males and a female), Great-tailed Grackle,
White-winged Dove, a male Gambel’s Quail, Northern
Flicker, Say’s Phoebe, Northern Cardinal, and Abert’s
Towhee (another regional endemic), as well as better looks at Pyrrhuloxia, Curve-billed Thrasher, Gila
Woodpecker, and a tiny Verdin. Sparrows would feature prominently during the tour, and we picked up
four species here in just a few minutes, including White-crowned, Brewer’s, Lark, and Rufous-winged, the
latter a narrow endemic pointed out by Kelly that occurs in the U.S. only in southeast Arizona and extreme
northern Mexico. It’s a target species for many birders coming to the Tucson-Nogales area. As we turned
back to the vans, a few of us spotted a lone Black-throated Gray Warbler in a nearby mesquite tree. The
bird was an early migrant for the low desert, and a great way to end our first afternoon in the field.
We were soon back on the road, and arrived at our lodgings in the tiny town of Amado 30 minutes later.
The cozy Amado Territory Inn is quiet and isolated, with just a few rooms, and our group was soon
registered and unpacking. Gardens out back offer views of the Santa Rita Mountains and Mt. Wrightson, at
9,456 feet the highest point in the range. The elevation at the inn is a bit higher than Tucson, resulting in a
shift from the saguaro- and cholla-dominated landscape seen earlier to a mesquite-dominated woodland.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.com
As night fell, we headed for dinner at the nearby Longhorn
Grill and Saloon, just across the highway. With steak in
many cuts and proportions dominating the menu, we had a
fine opportunity to sample a wide range of beefy entrées
(though in all fairness, there were also a number of dinner-
sized salads, non-meat options, and fish dishes available to
satisfy any vegetarians or piscivores in the group). We
were soon stuffed, and as we were leaving some of us took
a moment to snap a photo of the enormous cow skull
(nearly two stories high) that adorned the front entrance of
the steakhouse. Only in Amado. We then returned for a
well-deserved rest at the inn, while Richard headed home
for the night.
Monday, February 7: Early Birding in
Amado | Santa Cruz River Hike Along the
De Anza Trail | Madera Canyon and Santa Rita Lodge | Catered Dinner and
Hummingbird Talk at Amado Territory Inn
Coffee was ready shortly after sunrise, and most of the
group was outside, mug in hand, and birding before
breakfast with Rick and Bob. It was our first reminder that
winter mornings in the Sonoran Desert can be downright
cold. Fortunately, the group took our suggestions to heart
when packing, and were layered appropriately!
We saw our first Anna’s Hummingbird as we strolled the
grounds of the inn, as well as our first Ladder-backed
Woodpecker, Phainopepla, Red-naped Sapsucker, Ruby-
crowned Kinglet, Northern Mockingbird, Lincoln’s
Sparrow, Green-tailed Towhee, Lazuli Bunting, and Lesser
Goldfinch, among a number of other species. Rick also
came across an unexpected Black-crowned Night Heron in
a tiny pond on the property, and a female Cooper’s Hawk
made a quick flyby just before breakfast!
Of particular interest to many in the group were the
Lawrence’s Goldfinches we saw by the inn (male and
female), a species that winters in southern Arizona and
breeds in nearby California. It’s the rarest and most range-
restricted of our native goldfinches, and we watched them
feed on the seeds of dried amaranth plants that had grown
in profusion near the inn during last summer’s monsoon.
A Gray Flycatcher, puffed up from the cold, was also
spotted in the mesquites out front, a migrant species in
Arizona that would soon be heading to breeding grounds
further north. Similar to several other rather non-descript
species of Empidonax flycatchers, we were able to zero in
on this bird’s call notes to confirm the ID.
Richard Fray was back with us just before breakfast (which
included an assortment of cold and hot options provided
by our hosts at the inn), and after eating, we soon departed
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.com
for some birding in Santa Cruz County (which includes Amado), Arizona’s smallest county and despite its
size, one of the most species-rich counties for birding in the U.S. We initially headed to the De Anza Trail
just outside Tubac, a small community with art galleries and craft shops near the Santa Cruz River. The
river is lined with a dense riparian forest dominated by Fremont Cottonwoods, which were just barely
leafing out during our visit, making it relatively easy to spot foraging birds in the canopy. Our target bird
here was the Rose-throated Becard, a largely tropical species and one of our rarest, only known in the U.S.
from two or three breeding pairs that enter this part of Arizona most winters.
We parked and walked into the forest along the trail. The birding was initially slow. And we soon ran
across some other birders with discouraging news about the becard—they had been on the site for over two
hours, with no results. But just as they
were arriving, a bird caught Bob’s eye in
the treetops, moving laterally with a
mixed-species flock of Yellow-rumped
and Black-throated Gray Warblers,
House Finches, and Bridled Titmice—it
was the becard! It was opportune
timing, as several other birders in
addition to our group were able to focus
in on the species, a beautifully plumaged
female. The bird was too active and too
high in the canopy for any decent
photos, yet it was still an excellent find,
and a life bird for the group.
And though perhaps overshadowed
somewhat by the Rose-throated Becard,
this site yielded a number of other very
nice birds, and we totaled 34 species
during our two-hour walk here. Other
excellent additions to our trip list
included a trio of calling Northern
Beardless-Tyrannulets, several Black
Phoebes, Plumbeous Vireo, a flock
of Chihuahuan Ravens overhead,
Bewick’s Wren, Hermit Thrush, and
Bridled Titmouse. And without a
doubt a close second to the becard
was our sighting of a Black-and-
White Warbler, a distinctive species
that breeds in eastern North
America, but is seldom recorded in
the western U.S. Bob also spotted a
pair of Inca Doves on our walk out,
and then, thanks to Richard, the
group saw this shy species, as well,
when we paused at the bridge over
the Santa Cruz River, near our vans.
A very productive stop!
We drove the few minutes back into Tubac and stopped for lunch at Habañeros, a small Mexican café with
patio seating and a view of the Tumacacori Mountains to the west. Despite the chilly morning, it had
warmed enough to sit in the sun and enjoy some fresh chips and guacamole, a tasty lunch, and perhaps a
beer to celebrate the becard (for those not driving!).
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.com
We were then on to the nearby Santa Rita
Mountains and Madera Canyon, areas full of
well-known eBird hotspots that are on most
visiting birders agendas for southeast
Arizona. On our way we stopped briefly at
the Amado Water Treatment Plant, to
supplement our trip list with any aquatic
birds that might be there. We found several
duck species, all of which we would see again
later in the trip, and also had our first look at
Savanna Sparrow.
Once in Madera Canyon we focused on the
popular feeders at Santa Rita Lodge. We
were pleasantly surprised to have the viewing
benches largely to ourselves, where the group
was amused by a fearless White-nosed Coati
that put in an appearance. Hummingbirds
are the big draw here, although most don’t show up in Arizona until late spring and summer, when as many
as 14 species have been reported. That said, we did manage to locate a pair of Rivoli’s Hummingbirds,
noted for being the largest hummer occurring in the U.S. Originally known as Magnificent Hummingbird,
the species was recently split and the names changed, after taxonomic studies identified a unique series of
populations from Costa Rica’s Talamanca Mountains that merited separate species status.
Kelly led some of us on a hike along the creek, while Richard Fray held court at the feeders, sharing stories
about several birds we were watching—his enthusiasm was infectious! Other species new to our trip list
from the feeders and Kelly’s hike included a flock of Wild Turkeys, hordes of Acorn Woodpeckers, and
even greater hordes of Mexican Jays, along with White-breasted Nuthatch, Hammond’s Flycatcher,
Western Bluebird, Hutton’s Vireo, and many Lesser Goldfinches. Birds of particular interest, due to their
striking plumage or limited distribution in the U.S. (or both) were Arizona Woodpecker, Painted Redstart,
two pairs of Hepatic Tanagers, and a species noted most for its penetrating gaze, the Yellow-eyed Junco.
Late afternoon was soon upon us, and we had a dinner date back at the Amado Territory Inn! Upon
arriving, we bid farewell to Richard Fray, and thanked him for sharing his knowledge of southern Arizona
birding. His contributions were greatly appreciated! Tonight would be the first of several catered evenings
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.com
arranged for this tour, allowing us to relax and enjoy private dinners among our group of fully vaccinated
fellow travelers! Bringing a tray of lasagna, salad, and drinks to the inn was Elissa Fazio, a staff member
with Naturalist Journeys. The meal was lovely, and afterwards Elissa gave an intriguing presentation on her
years of experience as a hummingbird bander. Tomorrow would be a very full day, and as the evening
wrapped up we thanked Elissa and headed for bed.
Tuesday, February 8: Early
Departure from Amado | Peña
Blanca Lake | Patagonia Lake
Birding Trail | Paton Center for
Hummingbirds | Arrival and Dinner
at Casa de San Pedro B&B
After managing our own early breakfast this
morning (thanks Kelly and Rick for taking over!),
when the innkeepers had unexpected obligations,
we were on the road not long after 7:00. Richard
Fray offered one last piece of advice, before
leaving the night before, when he tipped us off to
a Barn Owl roost down the road in Rio Rico, not
far from his home. His directions were flawless,
and we were soon treated to neck-craning views
of a pair of sleepy owls perched inside a bell
tower, just minutes from our inn back in Amado.
A great start to the day!
Our next stop was Peña Blanca Lake, about 30
minutes west of Nogales, and just a few miles
north of the international border. The lake (a
reservoir, actually) is situated among rocky slopes and
managed by the U.S. Forest Service, with surrounding
vegetation consisting of mesquite, willows, a few
cottonwoods, and a number of other woody shrubs.
As close to Mexico as it is, this site has been known for
a number of birding rarities over the years. We
recorded 39 species here in a relatively brief visit (just
over an hour), including several that were a first for the
trip. Among these were a beautiful Osprey, Greater
Roadrunner (only spotted by a couple of us, but we
would see more later on), Dusky Flycatcher (our third
Empidonax species), Violet-green Swallow, our first
Vesper Sparrow, and two birds that were heard only,
i.e., a Sora as well as a Crissal Thrasher. We also saw
the endemic Rufous-winged Sparrow again.
Our next stop was on the outskirts of Nogales, at the
Palo Duro Golf Course Ponds. The golf course is long abandoned, but the ponds persist, and are a magnet
for waterfowl. There had been a report of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks from this site, and with a little
persistence we managed to spot a pair of this unusual, goose-like species nestled up against the cattails.
Additional ducks here included Northern Shoveler, Gadwall, American Wigeon, Mallard, Northern
Pintail,
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.com
Green-winged Teal, Canvasback, Redhead, Ring-necked Duck, Lesser Scaup, and Ruddy Duck. Other
novelties for us here included our first (and only) Cassin’s Kingbird, Pied-billed Grebe, a small group of
Wilson’s Snipe (noticed in flight over one of the ponds), and several Turkey Vultures. And we had good
looks at Canyon Towhee, Vermillion Flycatcher, and Say’s Phoebe hunting insects near the ponds.
Our morning continued as we drove east from
Nogales to Patagonia Lake State Park, where we
made a brief stop at the feeders and birding trail
maintained by park staff. In contrast to our first two
stops, where the birding was excellent, our walk
along the trail was just the opposite, and we soon
decided to move on. We had better luck when we
scoped the lake, picking up our first Bufflehead,
Neotropic Cormorant, and Common Gallinule, and
saw a Broad-billed Hummingbird by the feeders.
After a to-go lunch of deli sandwiches or tacos in the
Patagonia City Park, we headed over to the Paton
Center for Hummingbirds, an anticipated stop for
most birders visiting Santa Cruz County. The Paton
family had for years welcomed birders who came to
sit and watch the many feeders they kept at their
home, and that legacy continues today with staff and
volunteers from Tucson Audubon caretaking the site.
Violet-crowned Hummingbird was the target species
here, and we weren’t disappointed—a beautiful male made several appearances at the feeders, along with at
least two Anna’s Hummingbirds, and an unexpected Costa’s. Gila Woodpecker, White-breasted Nuthatch,
Northern Cardinal, Ladder-backed Woodpecker, and Lesser Goldfinch were colorful additions, and White-
crowned Sparrow, White-winged Dove, and Ruby-crowned Kinglet were common in the brush piles.
We continued east, and by mid-afternoon we were passing Las Cienega National Conservation Area, with
thousands of acres covered by native grasslands and yucca. Mourning Doves were plentiful along the way
(we probably saw hundreds), and we spotted our first Eastern Meadowlarks, a species that extends into New
Mexico and Arizona but is otherwise unknown in the western U.S. Several Pronghorn were also seen.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.com
Driving on, we passed through Sierra Vista and continued south to Hereford, where we turned east to the
San Pedro River Valley and Casa de San Pedro, the celebrated birding inn that would be our base for the
next four nights. We were checked in by 4:30, giving us the chance to walk the grounds and bird a bit,
evaluate the fresh-baked pies the Casa is so well-known for, or simply explore our lodgings. Casa de San
Pedro has a largely birding clientele, and the inn reflects this, with numerous feeders, binoculars available on
loan, an extensive library of birding manuals and natural history guides, and a trail network along the river.
Not surprisingly, the owners (Karl and Patrick) are both avid birders.
Tonight would be our second catered dinner, served in the inn’s dining room. As in Amado, the rooms here
were almost entirely occupied by our group, meaning we had the dining room to ourselves. Before dinner
we grabbed a beverage
and updated our tour
species list, something
we’d done each
evening at Amado, as
well. Pam, with a
particular interest in
hummingbirds, shared
a new publication with
Bob (on all the world’s
hummers) that he plans
to take with him to
Brazil this summer!
After dinner (and pie,
of course) we retired to
our rooms, looking
forward to seeing the
Sandhill Cranes in the
morning!
Wednesday, February 9: Early Birding at Casa de San Pedro | Crane Habitat at
Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area | Agricultural Fields in Sulphur Springs Valley
Many of us were outside and birding early today, despite the chill. Our first Mexican Ducks were spotted by
a couple of the group, winging past in the direction of the nearby San Pedro River. Bewick’s Wrens were
the first birds to start singing, and Eastern Meadowlarks were also vocalizing in the nearby fields. Northern
Cardinal were quite common at the feeders, once it warmed up a bit, and we saw both males and females.
The Cardinals here at the inn belong to the subspecies superbus, which is the largest (and some say the most
intensely colored) of the various races of Northern Cardinal, and is primarily restricted to the Sonoran
Desert area. Subspecies superbus is noticeably more robust than populations of the species back East.
We were rendezvousing with Peg Abbott (owner of Naturalist Journeys) at the Whitewater Draw Wildlife
Area mid-morning today, about 90 minutes to the east, so we were able to bird a bit more at the inn before
loading up and departing at 9:00. We would make a quick stop at Whitewater at about 10:30, to meet with
Peg and her friend Cathy, a local authority on the Sandhill Crane populations of Arizona and New Mexico.
We planned to briefly scan the refuge ponds for birds, but then move on to the Elfrida area for lunch and to
hunt for overwintering migrants in the dry farmland in the area. The plan was to then return to Whitewater
in the afternoon, to watch the cranes return en masse to the ponds (where they roost overnight, following
daytime feeding forays into the nearby fields).
Our drive over to Whitewater Draw was uneventful, and we limited our birding to what we could spot from
the vans. We saw many sparrows sitting on fence lines (a lot of Vespers, it seemed, but hard to confirm at
60 mph!), and had several quick looks at male and female Phainopeplas on the tops of passing mesquites. A
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.com
number of raptors were also spotted, mostly on fenceposts and utility wires, almost all Red-tailed Hawks
and American Kestrels. We passed through Bisbee on the way, with plans to stop here on Friday.
We met up with Peg Abbott, as planned, and spent the next hour or so surveying the ponds at Whitewater.
Although our goal was to focus on the Sandhill Cranes later in the day, when they typically return mid-
afternoon, there were literally thousands of cranes already there! We made a valiant attempt to generate an
accurate number for our eBird checklist, with Rick finally just giving in (and understandably so), and writing
“10,000, possibly underestimated!” And that’s not an exaggeration. For the most part the flocks were
stationary, and seemed content to wander slowly or not move at all. It wasn’t clear if they had already been
out to feed, and had returned for a break, or if they would eventually leave and then drift back in late
afternoon when we returned. In any case, it was quite a spectacle.
Aside from the cranes, there were many other waterfowl here, as well, although mostly species we’d seen
earlier, with the exception of about 75 Snow Geese. And tucked in among them was at least one diminutive
Ross’s Goose, spotted by Peg and Rick. In the arid fields surrounding the wetlands we also picked out a few
additional new species for the trip, including Loggerhead Shrike, Lark Bunting, and a Bald Eagle.
We then left for the small town of Elfrida, where we took advantage of the city park to enjoy a picnic lunch
provided by Peg. After a bit of a break, we embarked on a driving tour of the local farm roads, where we
picked up Ferruginous Hawk. It was another of our target birds, spotted by Rick in a distant field as it
perched on an irrigation pivot. North America’s largest hawk, this species overwinters in the southern
deserts before moving north to the Great Basin and beyond to breed in spring. There were many wintering
flocks of Lark Bunting here, as well, with some birds starting to shift into their dark breeding plumage. We
also picked up a pair of Horned Larks, several Brewer’s Sparrows, Chihuahuan Raven, Cooper’s Hawk
(harassing birds at a backyard feeder), Curve-billed Thrasher, and hundreds of Brewer’s Blackbirds. Peg
Abbott also led us to a Bendire’s Thrasher, a regional endemic that is largely restricted to Arizona and
Sonora, Mexico. It’s not a bird that’s expected on every trip, and was a nice addition.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.comWe ended the day back at
Whitewater, and this time came
up with a slightly more
conservative estimate of 8,500
Sandhill Cranes, although as
before, this number in all
likelihood was too low. As we
walked the trail, we saw another
Cooper’s Hawk, Black Phoebe,
Say’s Phoebe, Bewick’s Wren,
several Song Sparrows, a lone
female Phainopepla, Northern
Flicker, and three additional
Vermillion Flycatchers. And
just before leaving, Laurie called
our attention to incoming flocks
of Yellow-headed Blackbirds, numbering well over
200—a nice addition to the trip list. To top it off,
as we drove back to the inn at twilight, Laurie (in
the lead vehicle) also spotted a Great Horned Owl
silhouetted against the sky, perched on a phone
line. Two great birds to end the day!
We enjoyed another catered dinner this evening at
the Casa de San Pedro, and once again scrutinized
the afternoon’s additions to the pie counter. After
finishing up our species list update by the fireplace
in the living room, we turned our thoughts to
tomorrow’s birding. We were looking forward to
less driving!
Thursday, February 10: Early Birding
at Casa de San Pedro | Hereford
Bridge and San Pedro River | Ramsey
Canyon Preserve | Ramsey Canyon
Inn Feeders | Ash Canyon Bird
Sanctuary
Our tour schedule called for visiting Ramsey Canyon (a preserve operated by The Nature Conservancy in
the nearby Huachuca Mountains) tomorrow, right after breakfast. However, the chilly morning
temperatures, combined with the fact that Ramsey Canyon doesn’t really see much sun until 11:00 or so,
pretty much assured we wouldn’t see many birds there if we went with the original plan. And we couldn’t
simply switch Ramsey Canyon to tomorrow afternoon, since we were locked into another visit to
Whitewater Draw at that time.
So we opted for a slightly later breakfast today, preceded by an optional walk to look for sparrows in the
sunny fields around the inn, and then we’d visit Ramsey today just before lunch. It seemed the best option.
A remarkable number of native sparrows and their allies converge in the deserts of the Southwest in winter,
offering a chance to see species together that for the most part migrate later on, and don’t necessarily co-
occur on their breeding grounds. On our tour we recorded 11 species, and 16 if you include the towhees,
junco, and lark bunting. On our morning walks today (there were at least two groups) we were searching
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.comfor Grasshopper Sparrow, which we missed (it’s very uncommon in Arizona). But we did see Brewer’s,
Vesper, White-crowned, Lincoln’s, and Lark Sparrows, and heard Black-throated, in less than 40 minutes.
Looking for sparrows on winter mornings, especially in dry, grassy, often windy sites, where the birds hide
and aren’t saying much, and it’s cold enough to wear mittens, can be challenging. But it toughens your
resolve and sharpens your birding skills, and definitely makes you appreciate that waiting cup of coffee!
After breakfast, most of us drove the short distance to Hereford Bridge, which crosses the San Pedro River a
few miles downstream from the inn. A small subset of the group (Patsi, Dirk, and Laurie) went with Kelly
to walk the river trail, and then meet the main group at the bridge. Those of us in the vans arrived first, and
proceeded to bird along the river and under the cottonwoods. Although our earlier walks this morning (in
search of sparrows) were reasonably productive, the area near the bridge was not.
We did get a decent view of four Mexican Ducks, for those who hadn’t seen them earlier, as well as a
scattering of songbirds, but most birds we saw were either Yellow-rumped Warblers or Lesser Goldfinches.
Nothing against goldfinches and yellow-rumps, but not very inspiring. The hikers in our group soon arrived
and had even less to report. Our best find near the bridge ended up being a single Blue-gray Gnatcatcher.
So we jumped in the vans and headed to the Ramsey Canyon preserve in the Huachucas. It was a beautiful
clear morning, and we had sun along the trail as we walked among groves of Apache and Chihuahua Pines
(both Mexican regional endemics that barely creep into the U.S. in southeast Arizona) and Alligator Juniper
(so named for its furrowed, gnarly bark). Our birding luck was a little better here, with highlights including
a number of very active Acorn Woodpeckers moving through the Arizona Sycamores that lined Ramsey
Creek, some prolonged looks at Bridled Titmouse, three Yellow-eyed Juncos splashing in some puddles, a
group of colorful Western Bluebirds, several Ruby-crowned Kinglets, an unexpected Townsend’s Warbler,
and at least one Woodhouse’s Scrub-Jay (which was glimpsed by Bob, but otherwise only heard by a few of
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.comthe group). The latter two species were new additions to our list. Bob, who had briefly fallen behind on our
way down to the parking lot, stopped to photograph a Red-naped Sapsucker by the visitor center (the rest of
the group missed it, and it was somehow skipped over during our evening species list update that evening!).
And there were several Mourning Doves on rocks along the creek, near the parking lot.
After unloading our packs at the vans, we walked the short
distance over to Ramsey Canyon Inn (just off the preserve
property), and although it was mostly inundated by Lesser
Goldfinches, we had some interesting finds at their feeders.
An Arizona Woodpecker showed up and gave us by far the
best views of this species during the tour. We also had
another Rivoli’s Hummingbird here, which returned to feed
several times, and as we were leaving we confirmed a
Broad-tailed Hummingbird at the feeder, which was later
flagged as “rare” by eBird for Ramsey Canyon. Very nice.
And with that we were ready for lunch.
Today we enjoyed lunch on the patio at Pizzeria Mimosa
in Hereford. We’d pre-ordered our pizza and salads and
were distracted, as we waited, by the antics of a Cactus
Wren, which ducked in and out of the foliage a few feet
from our tables. The pizza soon arrived. And arrived, and
arrived. Did we order that much? No way we could eat all
that. Yet in an astonishingly short timeframe, the pizza
had all but vanished, which would have seemed impossible
minutes earlier. Whew! Well-fortified, we were now ready
for the rigorous afternoon ahead!
Which, well, actually involved sitting serenely in chairs at
the Ash Canyon Bird Sanctuary just down the road,
watching their feeders. Not an activity likely to work off
many calories. Well, no one complained, and the sun was out! We stayed here about 90 minutes before
taking the latter half of the afternoon off back at the Casa, where some of us would later walk an extra mile
down by the river (and Kelly would spot our only White-throated Sparrow)!
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.comAsh Canyon offered some nice photo ops,
mostly of birds that we’d previously seen, but
not necessarily as close-up as here. Both
Myrtle and Audubon’s Yellow-rumped
Warblers were present in abundance, and we
spent time speculating on the complex
plumage patterns of some newly arrived
Chipping Sparrows. Curve-billed Thrashers,
Mexican Jays, and Acorn Woodpeckers were
all easy to spot, as well as White-breasted
Nuthatch, White-winged Dove, Bewick’s
Wren, and Gila Woodpecker. We also had a
Northern Harrier fly past, and Rick picked up
a lone Pine Siskin on a feeder (new to our list).
All in all, a relaxing afternoon, and nothing
wrong with that! We earned it!
Dinner tonight was at a local restaurant, and
we arrived as scheduled at 6:30. We’d pre-
arranged for verandah seating, but their patio
heaters weren’t working, as it turned out
(yikes!), and it was frigid. While the rest of us
sat outside, mulling over our dilemma, Rick slipped in and arranged with the wait-staff for a separate room,
getting us out of the cold while still maintaining distance from other diners. Quick thinking, Rick! The
restaurant was short-handed, a common problem these days, so the service was friendly but a little slow.
That said, we all agreed that if waiting an extra few minutes for dinner was the worst thing we’d experienced
so far, then the trip had gone pretty well! We looked ahead to tomorrow, the last full day of the tour.
Friday, February 11: Early Birding at Casa de San Pedro | Huachuca Mountain
Foothills at Brown Canyon Ranch | Bisbee | Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area
As in previous mornings, many in the group were up early for coffee and a little pre-breakfast birding. Karl
and Patrick soon had fruit, pancakes, and sausage ready right on schedule, and we had a chance to chat with
a small group of other birders who had just arrived.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.comToday we planned a visit to the foothills of the
Huachuca Mountains, at Brown Canyon Ranch, a
federal preserve not far from Ramsey Canyon where we
were the day before. The area here included mixed
coniferous forest, oak woodland, and mesquite bosque,
as well as two ponds. Only 20 minutes away from the
Casa, and usually not crowded, Bob and Rick thought
this would be a nice combination of habitats to visit
before we spent the afternoon back at Whitewater Draw
for a final look at the cranes.
A cooperative Canyon Towhee greeted us as we pulled
into the trailhead area, posing for photos. The day was
warming up, and we found our first and only Ash-
throated Flycatcher of the tour here, perched atop a
dead agave stalk. By this point many of the species we
encountered had been tallied on earlier days of the trip,
giving us a chance to review our ID skills—we had close
looks at Anna’s Hummingbird, Lesser Goldfinch, Gila
and Ladder-backed Woodpeckers, numerous Mourning
and White-winged Doves, Northern Mockingbird, Say’s
and Black Phoebes, singing Bewick’s Wrens, a pair of
Verdin (also very vocal here), Curve-billed Thrasher,
and Vermillion Flycatcher, as well as five sparrow
species (Chipping, Song, Lark, Black-throated, and
White-crowned). It was also ideal habitat for
Phainopeplas, and we spotted several (both black males
and gray females) gorging themselves on sticky mistletoe
berries in the mesquite thickets.
And during our walk to the second pond, Barbara had
the find-of-the-day (and possibly the trip), when she bent
down and peered into the mesquite and casually pointed
out a perched Cooper’s Hawk, scarcely 10 feet away. And not only that, it was a Cooper’s Hawk with prey
in its talons, apparently a hapless Mourning Dove based on what was left of the plumage. While doing its
best to stare us down, the hawk seemed largely unfazed and made no move to escape. Everyone had a clear
look, although our chances for any decent photos were pretty limited, since we didn’t want to disturb our
subject during lunch.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.comWith what was a better-than-expected stop at Brown Canyon Ranch under our belts, we headed back to the
Casa and had our lunch today at the inn. After an hour break, we loaded up to drive back to Whitewater
Draw for a final afternoon of birding, and a last look at the Sandhill Cranes. As we did the previous
Wednesday, we passed through
Bisbee, Arizona along the way to
Whitewater. An historic mining town
just a few miles from Mexico, Bisbee
was worth a quick stop, and we pulled
in for gelato and a look at some shops,
and had a peek at the enormous open
pit copper mine the area is known for.
We were then on our way, arriving at
Whitewater mid-afternoon. Rick once
again estimated over 10,000 cranes
were present, plus another 100+ Snow
Geese. We also had good looks at
several duck species, including a pair
of lovely Cinnamon Teals and several Gadwalls. Walking
along the ponds we picked up several shorebirds new to our
trip list, including Least Sandpiper, Long-billed Dowitcher,
Spotted Sandpiper, and American Pipit. We also heard a
couple of very noisy Marsh Wrens. And Say’s and Black
Phoebes as well as Vermillion Flycatcher were prominently
perched near the marsh. Not as many Yellow-headed
Blackbirds appeared as last Wednesday, but a few showed
up to roost in the reeds just before we left.
We made it back soon after dark for our last catered dinner
at the inn, and also completed a final species list review by
the fireplace. Our departure tomorrow for Tucson was not
until 9:00, giving us the option to pack tonight or in the morning, and then enjoy a relaxed breakfast before
leaving for the airport.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.comSaturday, February 12: Final Birding at Casa de San Pedro | 9:00 AM Departure
for Tucson Airport and a 10:30 Drop-off
We managed some last-minute birding before breakfast, with old favorites like Gambel’s Quail, Mourning
and White-winged Doves, Curve-billed Thrasher, Pyrrhuloxia, and an American Kestrel spotted near the
BBQ patio out back, and by the feeders. We then said good-bye to Karl and Patrick and said we’d be back!
Settling in for the drive to the airport, we thought back on a successful trip, with many birds spotted. That
said, most of us know the feeling of a nemesis bird, a species we really want to see that always eludes us.
For Dirk it was the Greater Roadrunner. While others had better luck with it, Dirk, it seemed, was always
in the wrong place at the wrong time when it came to roadrunners. That is until today, with literally
minutes to spare. As we headed west from the Casa, soon to be hitting Highway 92 and turning towards
Tucson, there it was! A roadrunner! In the open, in a corral right next to the road! Dirk was out in a flash,
camera in hand. Nothing like eleventh-hour timing, and a fine way for the tour to wrap up!
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.comWe made it to Tucson in plenty of time for everyone to catch their flights. The trip was memorable from a
birding standpoint, to be sure, but the positive group dynamics were also remarkable. Everyone really got
along well. There was even discussion on our last night of reuniting sometime for a return trip to Arizona
during the August monsoon season, for a chance to compare our winter tour with summer birding in the
desert. Sounds like a great idea!
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.comFront Cover Photos (all by Bob Meinke)
Clockwise from upper left: Vermillion Flycatcher (male); Red-tailed Hawk; Gila Woodpecker; Gray
Flycatcher; Yellow-eyed Junco; Pyrrhuloxia (female); Anna’s Hummingbird (male); Wild Turkey (female)
Text Photos
In order from the first page: Gate’s Pass, Tucson Mountain Park (Dirk Schenkkan, DK); Vermillion Flycatcher
(female; Bob Meinke, BM); Cactus Wren (BM); Costa’s Hummingbird (male; BM); Lazuli Bunting (non-
breeding male; BM); Lawrence’s Goldfinches, on Amaranthus seed stem (male and female; BM); Gray Flycatcher
(BM); Black-and-white Warbler (BM); Inca Dove (BM); Rivoli’s Hummingbird (male; BM); Lesser Goldfinch
(female; BM); Yellow-eyed Junco (BM); Greater Roadrunner (BM); Rufous-winged Sparrow (BM); Violet-
crowned Hummingbird (Laurie Lamm, LL); Anna’s Hummingbird (male; BM); Anna’s Hummingbird (female;
BM); Northern Cardinal (male; BM); Sandhill Cranes and Snow Geese, Whitewater Draw (DS); Bewick’s Wren
(BM); Say’s Phoebe (BM); Sparrow page, clockwise from upper left: White-crowned Sparrow (BM); Black-throated
Sparrow (BM); Lincoln’s Sparrow (BM); Lark Sparrow (BM); Vesper Sparrow (BM); and Brewer’ Sparrow (BM);
Red-naped Sapsucker (BM); Mourning Dove (BM); Arizona Woodpecker (BM); Mexican Jay (BM); White-
winged Dove (BM); Audubon’s Yellow-rumped Warbler (female; BM); Phainopepla (female; BM); Canyon
Towhee (BM); Cooper’s Hawk with prey (subadult; BM); Sandhill Crane (LL); Snow Geese flying in (BM);
Vermillion Flycatcher (male; BM); Curve-billed Thrasher (BM); Pyrrhuloxia (female; BM); American Kestrel
(BM); Gambel’s Quail (BM); Group photo (Whitewater Draw; courtesy of Rick Weiman); Mark Melmed,
dressed for the elements (BM); Broad-billed Hummingbird—come see me in the monsoon season! (BM)
Naturalist Journeys, LLC | PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 | 866.900.1146
naturalistjourneys.com | travel@naturalistjourneys.comYou can also read
