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vinesmag.com
Celebrating
our 20th
Anniversary
PAID
subscriber
base
VINES is a national consumer magazine aimed
at Canadians who buy, drink and enjoy wine on a
regular basis. Our readers range from enthusiastic
beginners who want to learn more about the
world of wine and the styles of wine that they
enjoy to knowledgeable connoisseurs who look to
us for insider tips and expert wine-buying advice.
For the past 20 years, we have documented the people, places and
bottles that shape a world of enjoyment for Canadian readers. Our expert
perspective continues to be honed and enhanced to keep pace with the
communities we cover. Insightful content offers a uniquely Canadian
viewpoint and is designed to introduce wine lovers to the forces responsible
for products they enjoy.
VINES enjoys national circulation via its paid subscriber base and single copy
distribution through participating wineries, specialty boutiques and hotels.
Each issue receives enhanced circulation to subscribers of select Postmedia
Network newspapers targeting higher income readership. We have also
partnered with various wine clubs who deliver issues to their membership
and remain a proud sponsor of Canada’s largest trade show, the Gourmet
Food & Wine Expo, where magazines are also widely circulated.
Christopher Waters, Co-founder/Editor
905.522.6117 Ext. 545330 | cwaters@postmedia.com
EDITORIAL CALENDAR – 2018 Publishing Schedule
Issue Booking Material Due Distributed:
March-April (Spring) February 16 February 28 March
May-June (Summer) May 9 May 16 June
September-October (Harvest) August 8 August 15 August
InterVin International Wine Awards September 19 September 26 October
November-February (Holiday) October 17 October 24 November
Featured Wines: Featured Wines: Featured Wines:
CavE SpRINg CEllaRS 2014 CSv Blue MouNtaIN VINeyaRd aNd 16 Mile Cellar 2013
RIESlINg CavE SpRINg vINEyaRd CellaRS 2011 BRut RoSé rebel Chardonnay
ChECkMaTE aRTISaN WINERy 2013 Cade 2012 eState ClarenCe dillon WineS 2012
QuEEN TakEN ChaRdoNNay CaBeRNet SauVIGNoN Clarendelle rouge
hIddEN BENCh vINEyaRdS & WINERy taIttINGeR 2008 henry of pelhaM faMily eState 2014
2012 TERRoIR CaChé MIlléSIMé BRut ChaMPaGNe SpeCk faMily reServe baCo noir
kIM CRaWfoRd 2013 SMall paRCElS teNuta dell’oRNellaIa 2013 le Joel gott WineS 2014 Merlot
MERloT CaBERNET Volte dell’oRNellaIa MarCheSi de’ freSCobaldi 2012
MoëT & ChaNdoN 2006 gRaNd tRIuS WINeRy 2012 ShoWCaSe nipozzano veCChie viti Chianti
vINTagE BRuT RoSé ChaMpagNE Red Shale CaBeRNet FRaNC
Get
rùfina riServa
pENfoldS 2013 ST. hENRI ShIRaz ClaRk FaRM VINeyaRd ravenSWood 2013 diCkerSon
RavENSWood WINERy 2013 WyNNS CooNaWaRRa eState 2012 Single vineyard zinfandel
TEldESChI vINEyaRd zINfaNdEl JohN RIddoCh CaBeRNet taWSe Winery 2012
TENuTa dEll’oRNEllaIa 2013 lE Chardonnay eState vineyard
SERRE NuovE dEll’oRNEllaIa viña errazuriz 2014 aConCagua
alto Cabernet Sauvignon
grape escapes The New rules of wiNe TouriNg
Fres
h
Buttery and delicious
Mouton Rouge
Bring the
ADD spArkle
to the seAsoN
WINTER 2016
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janCiS
Fresh Press / Summer DrINKS Fresh Press / Summer DrINKS haShtaG thIS
Fresh Press / DeSTINATION Fresh Press / DeSTINATION
Rosés BRITIsh cOlumBIA ONTARIO
to Buy
Spring's Eternal
flaG-WaVING faVourIteS
now
Endless janCiS RobinSon
Summer Far Flung
There was no particular
path and certainly no
road. But we eventually
GatherING roSéS for all SeaSoNS ChilEan vintnERS aRE going to ExtREMES
got to several small vine
For those oF us responsible For were thoroughly shaken for a good three Pinot Noir vineyard. An extensive, fully plantings, most of them
experimental…
Malivoire Wine Co. 2016 Ladybug Malivoire Wine Co. 2016 Vivant Joie Farm 2016 Re-Think Pink Two Sisters Winery 2016 Rosé
Rosé Niagara Peninsula $16.95 Rosé Beamsville Bench, Niagara Rosé Okanagan Valley $21 Joie Niagara River, Niagara Peninsula The World Atlas of Wine, Chile is a hours on substantially unpaved roads mature vine had been found thriving,
(559088) the No. 1 selling rosé Peninsula $19.95 (498535) farm was making rosé, when rosé $29 early harvest of estate grown
COOL nightmare. Every time a new edition before boarding a speedboat that took us indeed almost strangling the tree that
Age-Appropriate
in ontario moves from strength to modelled after the pink wines from wasn’t cool. this Pinot/Gamay blend merlot, Cabernet franc and Cabernet
is needed, the extent of viticulture in for 20 spectacular minutes across a lake has long supported it, near the water-
CHArACTer
strength, even as Shiraz mottiar and the South of france, the second vin- is a ripe, flavourful rosé that con- Sauvignon from Niagara-on-the-lake
his team struggle to keep up with tage of Vivant rosé boasts impres- tinues to be one of Canada’s most combined to produce two Sisters this, the longest and thinnest country formed by the river Puelo. Our initial fall and inspired the owners to look for
our collective thirst. sive fruit and refreshing character. enjoyable. stunning debut rosé. on earth, has grown. For the first six destination was a lodge owned by wine somewhere nearby that would accom- Talca via a track that runs conveniently a climate too cool for vines, and cherry
editions we could — just — squeeze the producers Villaseñor who have vineyard modate a proper vineyard. José has close to the vineyard and the regular trees can be grown very successfully
Napa-based wine educator and author
Chilean wine map onto one page with holdings in Colchagua and Curico for taken samples of the leaves so that he ferry across Puelo lake. The debut there, although winds can be inconven-
INterNatIoNal INtrIGue Since releasing its first wines in 1987, Cedar- encourage more small batch production.
of the bestselling The Wine Bible,
our usual north to south orientation. In
Karen macNeil will deliver the keynote their Kenos brand and have plans for a can analyze the wild vine’s DNA back in vintage of Puelo Patagonia Pinot Noir iently strong.
Creek Estate Winery has helped transform As part of its vineyard-specific philosophy, the seventh edition, vine growing had further 40 hectare vineyard in Patago- Switzerland. It is currently thought that (rather a good name, I think) is 2014. On my return from Chile’s far south
address at the seventh annual Inter-
the Okanagan Valley into a first class food CedarCreek has taken delivery of its sixth spread so far north and south that we
News about a FreNch rosé comiNg to market iN were always viewed as prime time for rosé sales. How about national Cool Climate Chardonnay Cel- nia. Villaseñor’s commercial director this original vine — possibly Bonarda — It has been rather smartly packaged I received an email from Miguel Torres
and wine destination. Now celebrating its concrete egg tank, which adds to the diverse
large format bottle typically used for malt liquor was all over Arbor Day or Thanksgiving? 30th anniversary, the Kelowna-based win- array of smaller fermentation vessels in- ebration this July. running July 21-23 at had to turn the map through 90 degrees has to drive 12 hours each way several must have arrived over the Andes from with an incredible amount of technical the younger (who has long championed
social media feeds recently. Reaction varied. Not surprisingly, The LCBO intends to introduce more pink-hued selections ery is mapping its future by maximizing the cluding three foudres. various locations in Niagara, the annual and run it across the bottom of a double times a month to oversee the company’s Argentina. information on the back label and actu- southern Chile in general) telling me that
wine snobs sniffed that the lowbrow package was trashy. Bargain into the market year-round to meet the growing demand. potential of its vineyards. These offer ways to build texture and in- gathering of grape nuts kicks off July 21 page spread. Patagonian operations. The morning after our arrival we ally tastes convincingly of light, fresh, he and his father have recently acquired
hunters remarked the 1.2-litre bottles were more economical, Ontario isn’t alone. Rosé sales are blooming across the country. The most exciting part of celebrating terest into the aromatic whites different with a day-long seminar, The School of For the next edition, I really don’t Even if the vineyard had turned out travelled in a small boat a further 15 unoaked Pinot with a little warm min- 800 hectares close to Coyhaique at 45°34’
our 30th anniversary is having 25-year-old from the bright, fresh flavours of stainless Cool at White Oaks Conference resort know what we’ll do because viticulture to be non-existent, or the wine undrink- minutes upstream and then walked half eral undertow. in Aysén, close to the Argentine border.
compared to a conventional 750 ml format. It has become such an upscale item that Manitoba liquor board
blocks of Pinot Noir, Riesling and Gewürz- steel fermented wines, Whelan adds. in Niagara-on-the-Lake before the party now extends from 18°49’ degrees in able, I would not have regretted making an hour through woods and then across In fact it tastes so good that Villase- For the next few years they will be experi-
A blend of organically grown Gamay, Merlot and Cabernet even stocks a three-litre bottle of Whispering Angel rosé,
traminer that we can push forward, says Not surprisingly, Whelan has his sights moves over to Niagara District Airport
France, the rosé comes from Loire Valley winemaker Julian considered one of the world’s finest expressions, with a retail cost the Atacama Desert to 46°33’ south in this journey. Mitico Puelo lodge, origi- an open valley with a couple of farms ñor’s Chinese importer wanted to snap menting with different vine varieties, rec-
winemaker Taylor Whelan. set on adding new wines to the top-of-the- for the Flights of Chardonnay tasting.
Braud, who also produces a white for the Forty Ounce Wines of more than $150. Party planners take note. Patagonia, with some cartographically nally constructed out of local wood by an in which whole skins of sheep and cows up the lot. He has made do with half of ognizing that this is a decidedly long-term
“It’s a celebration of the last 30 years, but line Platinum tier, including a Block 3 Ge- Niagara Riesling specialists Cave Spring rare northwest facing spot on the Niagara Canadian participants will be joined
brand. Consumers in New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Canadians are following in the wake of American, British the emphasis is on moving forward,” he ex- würztraminer and single block Syrah from Cellars recently staged a 16-vintage retro- Escarpment that extends exposure to the this year by wineries from Australia,
inconvenient breaks in between wine American in the 1990s, was Chile’s first were drying in the barns. There was no the 1,300 bottles produced and is appar- project undertaken as a bet on accelerated
California and Colorado, will no doubt drink up the 1,200 cases and French wine lovers who are increasingly looking at rosé plains. “It’s an interesting place that we’re in. the Haynes Creek vineyard in Osoyoos. spective tasting of its flagship CSV (short for afternoon sun. As good as the range of Austria, Chile, France, Spain, New Zea- regions. dedicated fly fishing lodge but it exerted particular path and certainly no road. ently charging the equivalent of $150 climate change.
made from the 2016 vintage long before Labour Day. colours in their wine glasses. In France, consumption of rosé We have these awesome blocks to work with CedarCreek’s annual production con- Cave Spring Vineyard) Riesling at Langdon wines were, including stellar bottles from land, uruguay and united States. Some Earlier this year I was invited to visit a powerful charm even on this angling But we eventually got to several small USD a bottle in China. I should add that Argentina’s south-
The thing that stood out in the stories posted by the likes of
Bon Appétit, Time and Food & Wine was how they underscored
has overtaken white selections. The global trend is driven by
younger, female consumers, but is showing a spike in interest The future is open to us. and we have the backing to push the envelope
however we want. The future is open to us.
We’re not beholden to anything in the past.”
sistently hovers around the 40,000-case
mark, with roughly even focus on white and
red varieties as well as cool and warm cli-
Hall Hotel & Spa in Cambridge. Founding
partner and winemaker Angelo Pavan used
the opportunity to outline the evolution
2000, 2003 and 2009, the new 2015 vintage
($29.95, cavespring.ca) stood out as an in-
stant classic thanks to its incredible balance
59 producers will pour more than 150
select Chardonnays as well as Cabernet
what was billed as Chile’s southernmost
vineyard in commercial production,
agnostic. Approached on foot from the
small jetty, across a wooden bridge that
vine plantings, most of them experimen-
tal, where a wide range of varieties have
I wonder, however, how long Villase-
ñor can hang on to its status as Chile’s
ernmost vineyard is Alejandro Bulghero-
ni’s planting at Sarmiento in the Chibut
the summery aspect of rosé. While pink wine has escaped the
cliché notions that they are all sugary sweet, it seems to be
across the board.
The rapid growth in worldwide popularity has even spurred We’re not beholden to Part of the von Mandl Estates family since
February 2014, CedarCreek has embarked
mate grapes.
Whelan says he’s excited to get the 2016
in grape growing and winemaking that has
transpired at the Beamsville Bench estate
and purity of expression.
Pavan credited the wine’s steely character
Francs, Gamay Noirs and Pinot Noirs
thorughout the weekend. The annual
six-year-old Pinot Noir vines clinging
perilously to a hectare of basalt on the
swayed with each footstep over the fast-
flowing mountain stream that provides
been trialled. We were told that the most
successful are apparently, and rather
southernmost commercial vineyard. As
supplies of water diminish, all manner
region at 45°60’, between the new Torres
property and the Chilean government
anything in the past.
forever linked with warm weather sipping. the Riedel family to introduce a new stem to its expansive International Cool Climate Chardonnay river Puelo at 41 degrees south, very all the electricity needed by the 40 surprisingly, Marsanne, Mourvèdre, and of Chilean wine producers are sniff- research station in terms of latitude.
on extensive renovations on its production Platinum Block 3 Riesling bottled and re- since the debut CSV vintage in 1999. and rich texture to skin contact (50 percent
Case in point, a Delish.com post trumpeted: “Rosé season is collection of variety-specific wine glasses. The Austrian glass Celebration (dubbed i4c for short) was close to the Argentine border. Road guests it can accommodate, the lodge the Pinot Noir that has been planted on ing about down south. There is also a This is bad news for New Zealand actor
and hospitality buildings. leased soon. The flagship Riesling continues Pavan told the assembled sommeliers of the batch spent 12 hours soaking on its
created by some of Ontario’s best wine- links between Chile and Argentina are sits on a meadow overlooked by soaring the highest patch of flat land exposed to research station, operated jointly by Sam Neill who was hoping that his Last
right around the corner.” company worked with leading producers in Provence to develop “There’s been a total facelift on the whole to evolve and he's anxious to hear feedback that this sort of vertical tasting could only skins) and judicious blending of batches fer-
building, so it’s almost a rebirth,” Whelan from consumers. be possible with Riesling. “We couldn’t do mented with indigenous yeast and selected makers who wanted to bring attention
Last summer, rosé wine-infused gummy bears were the the best shape to maximize the enjoyment of the wine. few and far between at this juncture. mountains and a dramatic waterfall. The the most daylight. This is not the most Undurraga’s winemaker and a govern- Chance vineyard for the Two Paddocks
says. “We’ve got a new restaurant, new wine “There’s been a shifting style since 2014, this sort of extensive look at wines from yeast strains. to the quality of the Chardonnays com-
gimmick du jour and hashtags such as Rosé All Day or 50 Shades The popularity of rosé is certainly one of the trends of the year, Bacalhôa 2016 J.P. Azeitão Syrah Château Caves d’Esclans 2016 Domaine Chandon Rosé Sparkling Gérard Bertrand 2016 Côte des My original plan to reach this area via air is so pure that my lungs felt as though obvious place for a vineyard — annual ment research agency, at Chile Chico wine operation was world’s most south-
shop, new wine club and hospitality area…” with a little longer on lees and a little bit of such a span of time with any other variety,” The youthful nose offered a beguiling ing out of the province. They wanted to
of Rosé were the talk of the Web. but hopefully pink wine will moves from fashion to matter-of- Rosé Península de Setúbal, Portugal Whispering Angel Provence, France California $35.95 (405555) Roses Grenache Cinsault Syrah
host talented winemakers working in Argentine Patagonia foundered when I they had been spring cleaned. rainfall is usually about 2,000mm — but at 46°33’ in Aysén region in a particular- erly. A recent latitude reading put it at
There’s also a new cellar taking the place of barrel (aging) as well,” he says. “This is a he said. “Wherever we go to pour our wines, mix of fruit, herbal and floral notes, while
Rosé is truly enjoying its moment in the sun — even when fact. Winter, spring, summer or fall, any day is a good day for rosé. $8.55 (404566) the addition of $26.95 (325076) this splurge-wor- Chandon has been a leading pro- Languedoc, South of France $17.95
cool climate regions around the world realized I would probably need a horse I was accompanied by my co-author the soils here drain pretty well. ly favoured corner of Chilean Patagonia 45°15’. So just the southernmost in New
muscat into the blend amps the thy rosé shows the yin-yang appeal ducer of sparkling wine in California (373985) Bertrand’s stylish Côtes one of the original production areas that’s continuation of that. It was an early pick so we always lead with Riesling.” the palate was richly concentrated and bal-
it’s not particularly sunny outside. The LCBO in Ontario is While the approval rating for pink wine seems to be at an all-time fragrance and charm of this great of well-made pink wines that have since 1973. Its rosé offers concen- des roses rosé delivers the expected been decommissioned. we’re trying to work in texture and balance The top-of-the-line CSV label comes anced by mouthwatering acidity that carries and recognized international journalists to manage it. of Wine Grapes, Swiss geneticist José After being picked by a crew shipped where they are trialling different grape Zealand then.
promoting premium pink wines in its February release as ideal high, the last hurdle for pink wines seems to be enjoying equal bargain bottle from one of Portugal’s mouthfilling, texture with refreshing trated fruit flavours, fine bubbles fresh and fruity profile that has The new cellar features smaller tanks from lees rather than just using residual from two blocks planted in 1974 and 1978 through to the refreshing and persistent in Niagara to showcase their efforts. Instead we flew from Santiago to Vouillamoz who was charged with exam- in from Villaseñor Wines, the grapes varieties. The nearby General Carrera
Valentine’s Day selections. The Hallmark holiday and summer footing with red and white selections as wines for all seasons. largest wineries. citrusy flavours. and refreshing character. quickly made it a star in Canada. than the old production space, which will sugar.” cedarcreek.bc.ca at Cave Spring Vineyard, located at a finish. cavespring.ca coolchardonnay.org Puerto Montt, gateway to Patagonia, and ining the wild vine that gave rise to the travel 900km north to the winery in lake moderates what would otherwise be Read more at JancisRobinson.com.
14 Vines | vinesmag.com Summer 2017 15 18 Vines | vinesmag.com Summer 2017 19 28 Vines | vinesmag.com SUMMER 2017 29
GReat wINeS | wine Buyers Guide
HHHHI this Cabernet, from Chile’s best region for Pere anselme line of wines. It’s an approach- is determined to see it come to fruition prior to the end of his
Cousino-Macul 2013 Antiguas Reservas the variety, is juicy and lively, but retains able red Rhône blend delivering an ambro-
term this year. I wanted to emphasize the
Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley $18
(298075) expect rich black raspberries
the depth and complexity of fruit you expect
of the grape variety. It has much less of
sial cocktail of succulent purple berries,
warm chocolate, leather and wild herbs.
“I wanted to work to improve Cava’s image, promoting pre-
mium Cava, particularly on trade. I also wanted to improve the
importance of the vine-
and blackcurrant aromas accented by pen-
cil shavings, cocoa nibs and smoked spice
the mint/eucalyptus character often found
in Maipo Cabernet — something Papa also
It has a dusty fruited palate with distinct
earthy notes followed by spice. Overall, this
relationship among the producers,” he explains. “Last, but not yard and the relationship
least, I wanted to emphasize the importance of the vineyard
notes. the palate doles out generous sweet
fruit, chocolate, fine spice and espresso
attributes to earlier harvesting. this is a
young cabernet that needs a little longer to
is a simple yet effective wine, perfect for
dinners involving rustic braised meat, stews,
and the relationship between the grape growers and the enolo-
between the grape growers
flavours. It’s muscular and elegant in turns, integrate. Drink it from 2018-21. (RP) bean casseroles or ratatouille. (DVM) gists, in order to improve Cava’s quality.”
The new category gives the best producers a chance to illus-
and the enologists in order
with potent character and a long finish.
truly a bold and unapologetic red that offers FRaNCe HHHH trate the attributes of their best bottles, which will add a halo to improve Cava’s quality.
great bang for your buck. (DVM) Gérard Bertrand 2013 Grand terroir Les effect to the overall Cava category.
HHHHH
Aspres Côtes du Roussillon Roussillon, “As in all the best appellations,” Bonet Ferrer says, “in DO Pedro Bonet Ferrer
Clarence Dillon Wines 2012 Clarendelle
HHHHI South of France $18.95 (413245) a blend Cava, there are different segments of quality. Cava has impor-
Rouge Bordeaux $23.95 (028837) this is
Viña errazuriz 2014 Aconcagua Alto of Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Grenache, this tant volume (224 million bottles per year), it has wonderful
an attractive blend of Merlot (57 percent),
Cabernet Sauvignon Aconcagua Valley delivers solid fruit right through the palate. quality (represented at every price level), and very good distri-
Cabernet Sauvignon (30 percent), and
$19.95 (203364) errazuriz’s aconcagua It’s characterized by complexity and struc- bution. However, we also have bad distribution, so our image
Cabernet Franc (13 percent). aged in used
alto label is helping to define the new style
and new French oak, it delivers lovely lay-
ture, and is supported by a seam of well- all over the world isn’t the true one, because the big majority of
HHHHH HHHHH
of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, which
ered flavours and some intensity in the fruit,
calibrated acidity. the tannins are drying Cava’s price level corresponds to a sparkling wine of medium or
KIM CRAWFORD CLAReNCe
HHHHH embraces elegance over power and refine-
all supported by the clean, fresh acidity that
and well integrated, and you can drink it now low segment.”
RAVeNSWOOD though to 2020. (RP)
2016 SpItFIRe DILLON
2013
ment over ripeness. It’s a giant leap in
helped me deal with a dish of cassoulet. the The overarching view on Cava boils down to inexpensive fizz.
SAUVIGNON WINeS 2012 the right direction for diligent producers Wine lovers are willing to spending several dollars more on a
DICKeNSON tannins have just a little nip — you couldn’t
BLANC CLAReNDeLLe working in the higher elevation sites in the
$25 P.55 ROUGe
ZINFANDeL call it grip, but there was something — and
HHHI
non-vintage, tank-fermented Prosecco compared to a bottle of
$40 P.59 foothills of the andes. a blend of 90 per- Gérard Bertrand 2013 Grand terroir
$24 P.54 the texture is smooth and mouthfilling. It’s Cava. Few markets grasp the quality for price that many entry-
cent Cabernet Sauvignon, seven percent
Cabernet Franc and three percent Petit
a really lovely Bordeaux red that shows its
Merlot dominance, and it’s ready to drink
tautavel Grenache – Syrah – Carignan
Roussillon $18.95 (272575) Located
between the foothills of the Pyrenees
CaVa proDuCers look to shine level Cavas offer. Simultaneously, at the high end, oft-times
inflated Champagne trumps Cava regardless of comparable
Verdot, the 2014 vintage conveys fresh red now through to 2020, while the fruit is
By Daenna Van Mulligen quality levels.
mountains and the Mediterranean, tautavel
fruit, bright acidity, ripe tannins and long,
persistent finish. a telling stat on the data
fresh. (RP)
is an ancient village in Roussillon where
While this competitive war between sparkling wine regions
is a relatively new phenomenon, it’s a battle the producers and
All Cava is labelled Cava. Unless you
t
sheet suggests this was aged 12 months
in French oak barrels, 35 percent of which
HHHHI
some of the oldest human remains have
been unearthed. It’s a special place, not he thirst for sparkling wine has been growing stead- and racy Xarel-lo and the aromatic Paralleda are not only the Cava regulatory board are looking to face head on as they know the producer or have a good
were new — less time and less new wood
Cave de Rasteau 2015 La Domeliere
Rasteau, Rhône Valley $22 (645655)
least for the style of wine coming from the
region’s weathered Grenache, Syrah and
ily for years and shows no signs of dissipating. Wine
producers, formerly known only for their still wines,
unique to, but also extremely well suited to, Penedès climate.
Traditional Champagne varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardon-
see competition growing internationally and sales fluctuating —
especially in their domestic market.
understanding of what it’s all about, it
compared to what was fashionable five
years ago. the result is a poised red wine
this Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre blend
comes from the new Rasteau appellation,
Carignan vines. the hot climate coaxes have been jumping on the bubbly bandwagon faster
than you can say méthode champenoise. And why
nay, are growing in popularity, but aren’t as well adapted.
They require careful handling and earlier harvesting than the
Bonet Ferrer notes that 15 percent of Cava falls under the
blanket of reserva (aged for a minimum of 15 months) and gran
can be difficult to differentiate when
that’s drinking beautifully right now and for
the next two to four years. (Cw)
which is located just north of Chateauneuf-
du-Pape in the southern Rhône Valley. It’s
intensely fruity and fragrant aromas and
flavours from the grapes, suggesting ripe not? As far as trends go, it appeals to a much larger native grapes, but can contribute incredible finesse to the fin- reserva (aged a minimum of 30 months). Beyond that, there’s they are all lumped together.
fruit and complex spice and floral notes. audience than the ambiguous natural wine movement. ished wine. a selection of singular top-of-the-line products that command
a wonderfully succulent wine, doling out
HHHHI approachable and engaging, this is a great Meanwhile, established sparkling wine regions are trying to Today there are 241 producers and more than 6,000 grow- prices on par with the best Champagnes. In theory and in prac-
roasted cherries and blueberries, sarsapa-
Viña Santa Carolina 2014 Reserva de rilla, mocha and toffee, then wrapped up
winter red to enjoy with roast lamb or beef hold their market share by reminding us of their legacy. You’ll ers associated with the making and marketing of Cava. The tice, these wines are already Cava de Paraje Calificado quality
Familia Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley with a bouquet of lilac and freesia blossoms.
dishes. (Cw) find the Denominación de Origen Cava at the front of that line. irksome predicament is that all Cava is labelled Cava. There is — only consumers have no simple way of knowing it.
$19.95 (408658) this is a robust Cabernet equally supple and substantive on the pal- Spanish winemakers are desperate to shake their cheap fizz little way to discern quality or provenance simply by looking at The goal of the regulatory board is to elevate these already
that manages to achieve some finesse at ate, it offers plump purple fruits, mocha,
ItaLy reputation and carve out a niche as producers of top-flight, pre- the label. Unless you know the producer or have a good under- superior wines to be recognized as some of the finest in the
the same time. the flavours are rich and spice, floral and bacon fat flavours that lead HHHHI mium sparkling wine. standing of what Cava is all about, it can be difficult to differ- world, synchronously motivating other producers to improve
concentrated, with impressive layering and to a lengthy espresso finish. (DVM) Bolla 2014 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Unlike Champagne, which is named for the geographical entiate when they are all lumped together. Neither winemaker Cava’s quality – from small producers and large.
depth, and the texture is generous, mouth- Ripasso 2014 Veneto $19.95 (475574) zone in which it comes from, Cava is a designation. Wines nor consumer benefits from this frothy kerfuffle. Under the guidelines for the new designation, these wines
filling, and smooth. the acid is well mea- HHHH this is a drinkable wine that’s juicy-textured, labelled as Cava can come from several designated regions Enter the Cava de Paraje Calificado. Loosely translated, must be traceable from vineyard all the way to market. They
sured — it cuts through the fruit and fresh- Bouchard pere & Fils 2014 Bourgogne full of fresh fruit, and animated by lively within Spain. The vast majority of it comes from Penedès, near it means Cava from a qualified place. Paraje itself is a rough must originate from a singular distinctive site. The grapes must ber one) encircled by the words Calificado Cava de Paraje, will
ens the texture — and the tannins are fine pinot Noir Burgundy $27 (493544) a acidity. a blend of Corvina, Corvinone, and Barcelona, in the region of Catalonia, but there are 159 munici- translation of single vineyard or single site. Adding to the mud- be hand-harvested from estate-owned vines with a minimum adorn each approved bottle.
and integrated. It’s drinking well, and I sug- classic style of red Burgundy, the Bouchard Rondinella grapes, it shows the fruit concen- palities in total, scattered across numerous provinces that can dle, the pronunciation is different in Catalan (para-cha) than in age of 10 years, and with maximum yields of 8,000 kilograms After much deliberation and months of delay (seemingly
gest drinking in the next two or three years relinquishes tangy red currants and cherry tration that comes from the ripasso process officially use the term for its sparkling wine. Spanish (paray-chja). per hectare. Furthermore, the wine must be produced on the inevitable when government is involved), Bonet Ferrer antici-
to enjoy the primary fruit flavours. (RP) aromas layered with cocoa, smoked spices and here the fruit is not only concentrated Catalonia has a long tradition of producing sparkling wine. Ten producers have put forward 24 wines, hoping to gain estate, with a minimum of 36 months of bottle aging on lees. pates the first designated wines will be announced this spring.
and leather. the palate follows suit; fine- but complex, well structured and well bal- Josep Raventòs made the first Spanish bubbly in 1872 after he approval from the board’s panel to market under the new Sin- Such rules favour grower/producers rather than companies Once released onto the market, the Cava Regulatory Board
HHHHI boned and exceedingly fresh flavours of red anced by the acidity. the tannins are fine brought the Champagne method home to Penedès. Production gle Estate Cava designation by the Consejo Regulador Cava who primarily buy grapes. The wine must be a single vintage has a mandate to promote the new tier with a series of tast-
Viña Concha y toro 2015 Casillero fruit, forest floor, spice and tea leaf flavours. and drying, and well enough integrated that has persevered through farming and political crises over the (the regulatory board that oversees Cava production). Cava and made as a brut (dry, meaning 12 grams per litre of ings in key markets, organized press trips and master classes
three stellar selections that offer a taste of excellence del Diablo Reserva privada Cabernet
Sauvignon Maipo Valley $17.95 winemaker
Overall, expect a solid regional style, and a
perfect partner to creamy cheeses, salmon,
you can drink this now. Or hold it to the end
of the decade, before it starts to lose its
years, and has been rising steadily since the 1950s.
In 1986, Spanish legislation declared the appellation of ori-
Alta Alela, Codorníu, Casa Sala (Freixenet), Castellroig, El
Cep, Gramona, Juvé & Camps, Torelló Llopart and Sumarroca
residual sugar or less), extra brut (six grams per litre residual
sugar or less) or brut nature (zero dosage, and three grams per
to engage trade and consumers alike. Education and synergy
are fundamental pillars to ensure the success of this new clas-
Marcelo Papa is moving to earlier picking duck or mushroom ravioli. (DVM) freshness. (RP)
gin for Cava was indeed reserved for quality sparkling wines hope to be among the first to be awarded the new premium litre of residual sugar or less). sification. How effectively this rolls out remains to be seen, but
within the harvest window as Concha y toro
produced in the traditional method (with secondary fermenta- classification. Finally, a qualifying panel must taste the wines and ensure expectations are high, at home and abroad. Hopefully, with
moves away from the very ripe flavours that HHHH HHHHI
tion taking place in bottle) in approved and established regions. Pedro Bonet Ferrer, who is director of communications and labels conform to established standards. Canada’s consumption of Cava ranking eleventh in the world
have dominated until recently, and towards Brotte pere Anselme 2015 La Fiole Cotes Donnafugata 2014 Sedara Sicily $20
wines that show “more precise” fruit char- du Rhône Rhône Valley $17.50 (194498)
The method of production might be the same as Cham- family member of Groupo Freixenet, has served as president A special logo, a gold medallion with the letter P (its half (and fourth outside of the European Union) we can only stand
(560300) From an iconic Sicilian producer,
acter, are less sweet and have lower alcohol. this contorted bottle is unique to Brotte’s this Nero d’avola is blended with small
pagne’s; however, Cava is traditionally made with indigenous of the Cava Regulatory Board since 2013. He has worked dili- circle actually a backward C, and its spine suitably, the num- to benefit.
grape varieties. The fruity and floral Macebeo, the structured gently behind the scenes to establish the new classification and
44 Vines | vinesmag.com Spring 2017 45
56 Vines | vinesmag.com SPRING 2017 57
42 Vines | vinesmag.com Spring 2017 43
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