Dance! Coastal Escape - Beyond Dakar's busy streets - Msafiri-magazine

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Dance! Coastal Escape - Beyond Dakar's busy streets - Msafiri-magazine
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                                                                November 2019
November 2019 edition 163

                                                               Just
                                                              Dance!

                            In High          Coastal
kenya-airways.com

                            Spirits          Escape
                            Festive season   Beyond Dakar’s
                            in London        busy streets
Dance! Coastal Escape - Beyond Dakar's busy streets - Msafiri-magazine
Dance! Coastal Escape - Beyond Dakar's busy streets - Msafiri-magazine
Dance! Coastal Escape - Beyond Dakar's busy streets - Msafiri-magazine
Dance! Coastal Escape - Beyond Dakar's busy streets - Msafiri-magazine
Dance! Coastal Escape - Beyond Dakar's busy streets - Msafiri-magazine
Dance! Coastal Escape - Beyond Dakar's busy streets - Msafiri-magazine
ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT / 7

                                                                                            “Enjoy the holiday period
                                                                                            at some of the most iconic
                                                                                               winter wonderlands”

                                                                                                        FREE
                                                                                                        to Take
                                                                                                        Home!
                                                                                                                  Dear guests,                                  chimpanzee conservation. In 1966, a
                                                                                                                                                                group of chimpanzees from European
                                                                                        November 2019             At this time of the year, many of us          zoos were resettled on Rubondo Island
                                                                                                                  look forward to celebrating the festive       in Lake Victoria. Today, the colony is
                       November 2019 edition 163

                                                                                                                  season with our loved ones at home or         flourishing with chimpanzees and many
                                                                                                                  at holiday destinations across the globe.     other animals – such as rhinos – and is
                                                                                                                  Now that Kenya Airways has expanded           open to visitors. Our wildlife conserva-
                                                                                       Just                       with direct flights to several key destina-   tion story reveals the fascinating details
                                                                                      Dance!                      tions worldwide, you can enjoy the            of this modern-day Noah’s Ark.
                                                                                                                  holiday period at some of the most
                                                                                                                  iconic city winter wonderlands, such          Thank you for choosing Kenya Airways,
Photo: Trunk Archive

                                                                                                                  as New York, Geneva and London.               I wish you an enjoyable flight,
                                                                                                                  Our intercontinental travel story this
                                                    In High          Coastal                                      month takes you to the latter. England’s      Sebastian Mikosz
                       kenya-airways.com

                                                    Spirits          Escape
                                                    Festive season
                                                    in London
                                                                     Beyond Dakar’s
                                                                     busy streets                                 capital comes alive during the festive        Group Managing Director and CEO
                                                                                                                  season, which is marked by spectacular        Kenya Airways
                                                                                                                  Christmas lights, atmospheric walks
                                                                                                                  through frost-covered parks and uniquely
                                                                                                                  British rituals. Experience all of this as
                                                                                                                  you discover the best shopping areas,
                                                                                                                  restaurants and events with our guide
                                                                                                                  to London during yuletide.
                                                                                                                  Much has been said about the consump-
                                                                                                                  tion of cow’s milk. Unsustainable
                                                                                                                  production practices and health-related
                                                                                                                  concerns have encouraged some people
                                                                                                                  to look for alternatives, and a growing
                                                                                                                  number of consumers worldwide are
                                                                                                                  now turning to camel milk because of its
                                                   ➔
                                                                                                                  nutritional benefits. In Africa, business
                                                                                                                  is booming as more and more entrepre-
                                                   Kenya Airways’ World                                           neurs enter the market. Read all about
                                                   Travel Awards                                                  the African camel milk industry in our
                                                   • Winner Africa’s Leading Airline:                            trend story.
                                                      2016, 2017                                                  At Kenya Airways, wildlife conservation
                                                                                                                                                                                                             Image: Jeroen van Loon

                                                   • Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,                            is a primary concern, and for this reason,
                                                      Business Class: 2013, 2014, 2015,                           we work with USAID and other partners
                                                      2016, 2017, 2018, 2019                                      to prevent the trafficking of endangered
                                                   • Winner Africa’s Leading Airline,                            species. So, this month, it gives us great
                                                      Economy Class: 2011, 2018, 2019                             pleasure to tell you a positive story about
Dance! Coastal Escape - Beyond Dakar's busy streets - Msafiri-magazine
Dance! Coastal Escape - Beyond Dakar's busy streets - Msafiri-magazine
CONTENTS / 9

                              Travel & Nature

                             12 Tree of Life
                          Avenue of the Baobabs

                       20 Travel Essentials
                             Packing for London

                        22 Coastal Escape
                               Dakar in Senegal

                         45 Urban Getaway
                                     Travel tips

               52 The Most Magical Time
                        Festive season in London

                                                                                                                                             22
                                           58                                                                                    Arts & Culture

                                                                                                                                     15 Habari
                                                                                                                                Kenya & the world

                                                                                                                    32 Movers And Shakers
                                                                                                                                 Leading dancers

                                                                                                                             44 Book Review
                                                                                                                                  Strategic Doing

                                                                                                                             58 Into The Wild
                                                                                                                         Chimpanzee conservation

Publisher Kenya Airways | Director of Communications and Public Affairs Dennis Kashero Head of Content Development Rehema Kahurananga Corporate Communications Executive
Mercy Agnes Mwamba Advertising MediaEdge Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production Hearst Create | CEO Hearst
Netherlands Luc van Os | Director Hearst Create Lieneke van den Heuvel | Content Director Irene Bauer Senior Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Client Service Director
Erik-Jan Sanders Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Design Concept Sabine Verschueren Production Manager Hans Koedijker Contributors Connie Aluoch, Joost
Bastmeijer, Yvette Bax, Jackson Biko, Mirjam Bleeker, Julia Buckley, Matteo Colombo, Andrea Dijkstra, Eromo Egbejule, Emma van Egmond, Jacqueline de Haas, Annemarie Hoeve, Sioe Sin Khoe,
Annette Lavrijsen, Dana van Leeuwen, Jeroen van Loon, Victor Murithiw, Belange Okandju, Kim Paffen, Gijsje Ribbens, Anthea Rowan, Kristel Steenbergen, Nigel Tisdall, George Turner, Eva de
Vries, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander Lithography Ready4Print Printer Walstead CE, Kraków, Poland
Dance! Coastal Escape - Beyond Dakar's busy streets - Msafiri-magazine
10 / CONTENTS

                                                                                                                                          Fly Guide

                                                                                                                                       65 Highlights
                                                                                                                           Inflight entertainment guide

                                                                                                                                    75 Safari Njema
                                                                                                                                       News & service

                                                                                                                               81 Flying Blue News
                                                                                                                                83 SkyTeam News
                                                                                                                                 84 Route Maps
                                                                                                                                    89 Cargo
                                                                                                                               90 Get Comfortable

                                             52

                                     Business                                                                                                     32

                           38 Aircraft Facts
                          Loading and offloading

                              40 White Gold
                          The camel milk industry

                                   46 Uganda
                                     At a glance

                      48 Rethinking Plastic
                                 Waste solutions

Contact details Kenya Airways Communications & Public Affairs, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, msafiri@kenya-airways.com Website kenya-airways.com, msafiri-magazine.com
Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @KenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734
271488, msafiri@mediaedgeke.com Hearst Magazines Netherlands BV, Moermanskkade 500, 1013 BC Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 5353942, Website hearstcreate.nl.
No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, Hearst and Kenya Airways assume no
responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation. Msafiri is available on all KQ flights
and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at kenya-airways.com.
12 / NATURE / Views

           Tree
          of Life
What was once a
tropical forest is now
a long avenue, flanked
by a line of giants.
Here, revered and
ancient BAOBAB
TREES still stand tall.
text Emma van Egmond

     IN WESTERN Madagascar, the dirt
road that links the towns of Morondava
and Belon’i Tsiribihina is lined with
about 25 magnificent baobab trees; each
30-m tall and 800+ years old (carbon
dating indicates that many of the oldest
African baobabs are between 1,000 and
2,000 years old). This is the Avenue of the
Baobabs, and it’s the perfect place to get
up close to these mighty trees.
     The otherworldly baobab, known as
the Tree of Life, is a sacred tree to many
in these parts for its apparent spiritual
and health-giving properties. Able to
store 120,000 litres of water in their
hollow trunks, they can be tapped for
water in the dry season. And with six
times more vitamin C than oranges, the
fruit of this tree is increasingly being
seen as a “superfood”. But sadly, the
baobab appears to be a victim of climate
change, with rising temperatures making
them more susceptible to disease,
drought and fire.
     This means that you should plan a
visit to this natural wonder while you
still can. Be sure to do so during sunset
or sunrise, when the trees’ silhouettes
stand out against the orange sky, and the
hazel-coloured trunks turn gold in the
light. The journey can be bumpy and
arduous, but you’ll be rewarded with an
unforgettable experience.

Kenya Airways operates daily flights from
Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport
to Ivato International Airport in Antananarivo.
NATURE / 13

              Kim Paffen
HABARI / 15
Pan-fried                                        Over 2,000 Stone
grasshoppers, also                               Age rock carvings

                                       Habari
known as nsenene,                               have been found at
are a delicacy in                                     Twyfelfontein
Uganda.                                                in Namibia.

    Portraits
    Dazzling
    Design
    No matter which creative tools
    Kenyan visual artist Evans
    Mbugua uses to express
    himself, people are always
    at the heart of his aesthetic
    approach. Through colourful,
    dazzling works, he portrays
    his life and the lives of his
    friends and strangers. Diversity
    nourishes his curiosity of
    the world. Mbugua was born
    in Nairobi in 1979 and is
    currently living in Paris.

    ~ Instagram: @evans_mbugua
16 / HABARI
SPQR, an abbreviation of The                                                                                               There are more than
Senate and People of Rome,                                                                                                  150,000 islands in
is inscribed on manhole                                                                                              Botswana’s Okavango Delta.
covers in Rome.
                                                             Nairobi
Shutterstock

                                          Gourmet burgers                                       Ten-pin bowling
                                         Mama Rocks                                           Village Bowl
                                      Two brilliant Nigerian/British    If there’s a better bowling alley in Nairobi, then we aren’t aware of
                                      ladies – Samantha and Natalie     it. This place is fantastic, not least because it’s at Village Market
                                      – rocked up in Kenya a few        Mall, and these fellows don’t cut corners when it comes to enter-
                                      years ago with an idea that’s     tainment. Why not add a bit of fun to your weekend? You could
                                      wrapped around street food        practise your swing (if you aren’t into boxing) and give this a go.
                                      and the zeitgeisty food-truck     We suggest going with a group of friends. If not, you’ll probably
                                      model. It was a fresh idea that   meet people there who you can play with. There are drinks,
                                      resonated with the urban Nai-     which means you can have a beer as you swing. The mood is
                                      robi crowd who were tempted       right, meaning that there’s a lot of whining (by the losers) and
                                      by something unique and out-      shouting (by the winners).
                Online wine           of-the-box (as out-of-the-box
                                      as a food truck can be) and
               Cellar 254
                                                                        ~ villagemarket-kenya.com
                                      newish. Their burgers, which
                                      are made from prime cuts, are
Who wants to go out to a              served in a brioche bun.
shop looking for wine when
you can go online? This portal        ~ mamarocksburgers.com
features over 67 varieties of

                                                                                                      Shutterstock
wine from 7 countries. You
can shop according to your
taste in style, region, type,
grape and price. Oh, and they
deliver right to your doorstep,
so you don’t have to rush out
and leave the party.

~ cellar254.com

                               Great salads
                    Amani Garden Cafe
This café was started by Becky Chinchen, a US missionary who
fled from Liberia to Kenya where she – and three other refugees –
began making placemats and selling them to hotels. Later, they
founded their company, Amani ya Juu, which means “peace from
above”. Theirs is a social enterprise designed to bring hope to
the disadvantaged. Amani Garden Cafe is part of their offering.

~ amanigardencafe.org
                                                                           “The youth can
                                                                           walk faster but
                                                                           the elder knows
                                                                              the road”
                                                                                                                                                  Nairobi page text: Jackson Biko

                                                                                              – African proverb –
HABARI / 17
                            The Sani Pass, connecting Underberg in                                                                    Malindi, Diani and Watamu are
                            South Africa with Mokhotlong in Lesotho,                                                                   just a few of the most popular
                            is considered to be one of the world’s                                                                          beach destinations along
                            most dangerous mountain passes.
                                                                                     What’s On                                             Kenya’s 536-km coastline.

                                                                                             Race
                                                                                   Ultimate Endurance
                                                                  During the 84-km long Tsavo Run, participants compete over
                                                                  a stunning but tough endurance course covering large parts
                                                                  of the beautiful Tsavo National Park in Kenya. Funds raised
                                                                  will be used to support the Tsavo Heritage Foundation, work-
                                                                  ing towards the protection of endangered ecosystems in the
                                                                  park. This spectacular event will take place on 7 December.

                                                                  ~ tsavorun.org

                                          New                                                                                                 Festival
                            Minimal Design                                                                                               Afro Punk
                            New Lagos-based design                                                                                 With editions in London,
                            brand, The Aga Concept,                                                                                Paris and Brooklyn, the Afro
                            breathes minimalism while                                                                              Punk Festival caters to a
                            taking inspiration from                                                                                growing young community
                            African culture and everyday                                                                           through music, art, film,
                            life. With wooden spoons to                                                                            comedy and fashion. For
                            cutting boards, it combines                                                                            the newest edition of this
                            basic colours and age-old                                                                              popular event, head to
                            traditions to create a truly                                                                           Johannesburg, South Africa,
                            modern aesthetic.                                                                                      on 30 and 31 December.
                                                                  Getty Images

                            ~ Instagram: @theagaconcept                                                                            ~ afropunk.com/festival/joburg

                                                                                                                                 Accessories
                                                                                                                        Beautiful Blend
                                                                                                            Ugandan brand, Kona, merges Indian and African
                                                                                                            influences into stunning bags and jewellery using a
                                                                                                            mix of patterns, styles, colours and materials. With
                                                                                                            raw materials sourced locally and products hand-
                                                                                                            made by a team of women in Kampala, Kona aims
                                                                                                            to employ and empower local artisans.

                                                                                                            ~ kona.ug

                                                            Culture
                                             It’s a Celebration!
                            Rusinga Island, in the Kenyan part of Lake Victoria, is home to
                            a unique festival. This year, on 19 and 20 December, The Rusinga
                            Cultural Festival celebrates its eighth edition with two days of music,
Habari text: Eva de Vries

                            fashion, food, literature and more, highlighting the local Suba culture.

                            ~ facebook.com/rusingafestival
18 / HABARI
Lake Kariba is the world’s biggest                                                                              The majority of Burundi’s
man-made lake by volume, and                                                                           population lives in villages that are
supplies hydroelectricity to Zambia                                                                   scattered throughout the highlands.
and Zimbabwe.
                                                         Column

                                                          Jackson Biko

                                                    ADPhD
     I’m sitting in a gazebo at a group therapy session on a         by your ADHD status. My group is an eclectic family: a boy
balmy Saturday afternoon. If I was an auditor, or in one of          of 15 with gold teeth (accompanied by his supportive par-
those serious professions that involves sitting in a corner and      ents); a banker; a university student; a lady with a thousand
staring constantly at a computer screen, I wouldn’t be here.         bangles; an architect; an Uber driver; a tattooed guy who
I’m here by happenstance because – a couple of months back           refused to declare what he does (so let’s just say “a football
– I went to interview a clinical psychiatrist about mental           hooligan”); a landscaper; a Somali guy with a nice watch; a
health in millennials and he said, “By the way, have you done        gentleman who had just turned 30 and received divorce papers
an ADHD test?” I hadn’t, so he picked up the phone and               from his wife as his birthday gift; a lady with pouty lips; a guy
said, “Linda, could you get me the xx forms?” (I can’t recall        who said very little (probably secret police); and yours truly.
the exact name; I was distracted by his tie.) I did the test, and
like most tests I’ve done in my life, I passed. “Biko,” he said.
“You have Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder but...
Biko?”
     “Oh sorry,” I replied, while putting the miniature silver
elephant back on his desk.                                             “Talking about oneself
     “You’re not badly off,” he continued. “Yours is a moderate
case.” It explained a lot. I get distracted easily. I’m super im-      is fun, especially when
patient. I get angry fast. I drift in and out of conversations. If
I think you’re full of it, I will zone out but leave you with an
intense concentrated look (when I’m actually thinking about
                                                                         you’re uniterrupted”
where European ducks go during winter).
     Therapy’s a hoot. I started mine by visiting a young man
who was wearing tight trousers and a thin belt. He was actually
a therapist with qualifications, but he could have passed for a           I don’t like groups. I’m a snow leopard. I walk in the shad-
social media influencer. I’d spent the last ten years as a writer    ows; the limelight is not my home. So, these group sessions
listening to people jabber on about their lives, and now it was      aren’t my cup of tea. But I’ve learnt so much about “schemas”
my turn. After one session, I realised what I’d been missing:        (Google it when you land) and knowing – and managing –
talking about oneself is a ton of fun, especially when you’re        myself. We all speak like we’re a special tribe with unique
uninterrupted. My therapist never interrupts me. He better           features – like albino zebras – and, quite frankly, if you’re not
not because it’s costing me US$50 an hour! I’ve had two ses-         ADHD you’re missing out. The meetings make everybody
sions so far. I talked about my deceased mother in both. I           feel good and special. The word “normal” is discouraged in
didn’t cry, in case you’re wondering.                                all sentences. Anyway, I just started thinking about those
                                                                                                                                               Illustration: Hannah Wieslander

     My therapist told me that I need to meet other people           ducks in Europe again. I’m wondering why nobody ponders
with ADHD because it might help me to comprehend the                 such things. How can a flock of ducks just disappear from a
condition. The ADHD support group mirrors Alcoholics                 pond and folk just go about their business unperturbed? Just
Anonymous because you start by stating your name followed            how cold is Europe’s heart?
HABARI / 19
Juba, the capital of South                                                                              The Niassa Game Reserve
Sudan, is located on the shores                                                                          is the largest conservation
of the White Nile.                                                                                        area in Mozambique, and

                                                    Arts & Culture                                          one of the most pristine
                                                                                                         wilderness areas in Africa.

                Inspiration                                                                                 Design
                African                                                                          Urban Furniture
               Highlights                                                                        From mirrors to seating,
                                                                                                 the signature style of The
Victoria Falls, Mount Kilimanjaro or                                                             Urbanative is characterised
Zanzibar are examples of African                                                                 by clean, functional designs,
destinations on the top of many                                                                  and geometric Ndebele
bucket lists. But, why not beat                                                                  textiles, contrasted with steel
the crowds and explore one of                                                                    and wood. The South
these often-overlooked but equally                                                               African brand explores the
extraordinary places?                                                                            role of culture in modern
                                                                                                 society, aiming to convey a
Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda &                                                                     modern African narrative.
Democratic Republic of the Congo
Located in the border region of                                                                  ~ theurbanative.com
western Uganda and Democratic
Republic of the Congo, the Rwenzori
Mountains are characterised
by peaks topped with snow and
glaciers, waterfalls and lakes, as
well as rare flora. Crowning this
mountain range is Mount Stanley,
Africa’s third-highest peak and a
source of the Nile River. The best
way to explore this tough terrain is
by foot.
~ ugandawildlife.org                                            Creativity
Simien Mountains National Park,                                Food Art
Ethiopia
The Simien Mountains are worth         From a lady wearing earrings made of onions to red lips               Music
                                       formed from fruit, Nigerian visual artist Haneefah Adam
                                                                                                        Reggae
visiting for many reasons. This
spectacular and unique mountain        turns leftover food into beautiful pieces of art.

                                                                                                       for Peace
range is home to a number of
endangered species, such as the        ~ haneefahadam.com
Ethiopian wolf and the walia ibex,
as well as the gelada baboon and                                                                 The Nigeria Reggae Festival,
the caracal. Hikers will be amazed                                                               from 28 to 30 December,
by the quiet highland ridges covered                                                             strives to spread a message

                                        “In the moment
with grasses, isolated trees and the                                                             of love, peace and unity.
bizarre giant lobelia plant.                                                                     Featured artists include
~ simienpark.org                                                                                 Lioness Fonts and Singing

                                       of crisis, the wise
                                                                                                 Vernon. Check the website
                                                                                                 for venue details.

                                       build bridges and
                                                                                                 ~ nigeriareggaefestival.com

                                        the foolish build
                                              dams”
Getty Images

                                                            – Nigerian proverb –
20 / TRAVEL / Essentials
Big Ben is the nickname given to                                                                                                  Buckingham Palace has
the largest of the bells inside the                                                                                        775 rooms, 760 windows, 1,514
famous tower housing it.                                                                                                  doors and over 40,000 lightbulbs.

                                                   Packing for London
                       Travel-sized beauty kit including face cleanser, rose shampoo
                       and conditioner, plus vanilla and orange hand cream.
                       Grown Alchemist, US$81.
                                                                                                     Women’s
                                                                                                   wool-blend
                                                                                                  pea coat by
                                                                                              Lemaire as part
                                                                                                  of a special
                                                                                                collaboration.
                                                                                              Uniqlo, US$199.

                  Add sparkle
                  to any outfit with
                  these gold-plated
                  Barbelle earrings.
                  Saskia Diez,
                  US$197.

                                                                                                                          Chrome-plated safety razor
                                                                                                                          shaving set keeps you free of
                                                                                                                          stubble for London nights out.
                                                                                                                          Mühle, US$155.

                                                                         Women’s cashmere
                                                                          roll-neck sweater
                                                                          to keepyou warm
                                                                          during the winter
                                                                         months. Whistles,
    Burgundy mixed-stripe,                                                     US$389.
    ribbed woollen beanie hat with
    pom-pom. Paul Smith, US$95.

                                                                                                                                    Harlequin Jacquard
                                                                                                                                    Weekender Bag by
                                                                                                                                    the famous house of
                                                                                                                                    floral fabrics. Liberty
                                                                                                                                    London, US$640.

                                               Each gold-leaf Christmas
                                                     cracker contains a
    Umbrella tie pin                           crown, entertaining scroll
                                                                                                                                                              Selection: Gijsje Ribbens

    – a nod to the                                 and silver-plated gift.
    famous British                                    Fortnum & Mason,
    weather. Simon                                                                            Santal 33 Travel Tube, packs in scents evoking classic
                                                                 US$73.
    Carter, US$38.                                                                            cowboy-style masculinity. Le Labo, US$162.
22 / TRAVEL / Dakar

Maison Abaka’s
terrace.
TRAVEL / 23

               COASTAL
               ESCAPE
               Only a stone’s throw from the bustle
               of DAKAR, laid-back beaches and
                   world-class waves beckon.
Getty Images

                           text Joost Bastmeijer
24 / TRAVEL / Dakar

    THERE’S A bottle of white wine on the sun-faded red
tablecloth. The sun is coming in through the open windows
along with the ocean wind, illuminating the red-brick interior of
Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers, a small restaurant on Île
de Gorée that’s filled with small paintings framed in driftwood.
In the back, an old man is ironing napkins. Outside, fishermen
prepare their boats on the beach for another departure. It’s
scenes like this that create an unexpected tranquillity that’s
always close at hand throughout the coastal hub that is Dakar,
as weʼve come to realise in the course of our stay.

                                                                                                                                           Getty Images, Shutterstock
   BOATS & BEACHES
    But our trip doesnʼt start on this beautiful stretch of fine
sand; it starts in a 30-year-old taxi inching through Dakar
traffic, en route to the beachside neighbourhood of N’Gor in
the north of the Cap-Vert peninsula in which Dakar is nestled.
    Upon arriving at Maison Abaka, a small boutique hotel
only 10 km from central Dakar, relaxation mode sets in                   “Yes, this is the Dakar we’d been hoping for”
instantly as life here clearly occurs at a different pace. On the
sand in front, children kick a ball, while others play some
table football. We’re greeted by a few women selling boiled eggs
sprinkled with a spicy red “piment” powder. After checking in,      Where to sleep
we look out over the glimmering surface of the Atlantic Ocean.      Maison Abaka
Together with the hotel owner’s parrot, we take in the view.        This hotels offers the best access
Yes, this is the Dakar we’d been hoping for.                        to N’Gor Beach and the famous
    Already wearing our swimwear and ready for a dive the           surfing island. maison-abaka.com
next morning, we leave the hotel’s back entrance to N’Gor
Beach. Taking a dip looks tempting, but this beach is mainly        Quiksilver Boardriders Surf Camp
used by fishermen. “Do you want to go to the other side?”           A budget hangout – in the middle
a friendly older gentleman asks us in French. He points to a        of the N’Gor neighbourhood – with
colourful boat making its way to the island across the water.       nice staff and an outdoor pool, this
Known as a pirogue, this traditional wooden fishing boat            is perfect for young backpackers.
looks a bit like a long, narrow canoe with an outboard motor        quiksilversenegal.com
on the back. “That boat will take you to Île de N’Gor.”
    This peaceful speck of an island under a kilometre away,        King Fahd Palace Hotel                  Above: N’gor, a surf club
is perfect for spending a day exploring. What makes it extra        This massive five-star hotel is           that’s become a surfer
relaxing is the fact that there are no cars here; the island is     located in the middle of the fancy            hideaway in Africa’s
only 800 metres long, so none are needed. After renting a           Les Almadies neighbourhood.              westernmost point, just
beach lounger and having lunch at one of the many waterside         kingfahdpalacehotels.com                    off the coast of Dakar
eateries, we take a stroll to the western side of the island.                                                 (top); A beach in Dakar
From here, we can see the busy Dakar skyline in the distance.       N’Gor Island Surf Camp                          (bottom left); Pink
                                                                    Surf the mythical waves on Île de       hibiscus flowers (bottom
   SURFING HAVEN                                                    N’Gor, although lessons here come                            right).
     Sitting on a rock on the western side of Île de N’Gor,         with quite a price tag. gosurf.dk       Right page: Île de Gorée,
we watch the island’s legendary waves crashing on the coastline                                            a UNESCO World Heritage
before meeting Philipp and Matar. The two are surfing with          Villa Castel                             Site (top); Hostellerie du
the N’Gor Island Surf Camp, located on one of the largest           This Île de Gorée villa boasts a           Chevalier de Boufflers
plots on the island. The surf school, owned by US-Senegalese        lovely flower garden and outdoor       (bottom left); Senegalese
rapper Akon, also boasts rooms and a small restaurant.              swimming pool. villacastelgoree.com    women with their children
“It’s a great place to spend my holiday,” the Austrian Philipp                                                       on a sandy beach
says. “The waves here are amazing. Have you seen the >                                                                  (bottom right).
TRAVEL / 25
26 / TRAVEL / Dakar

Îles de la Madeleine,
to the west of Dakar.
TRAVEL / 27

                  “We watch the island’s
               legendary waves crashing on
                      the coastline”
Getty Images
28 / TRAVEL / Dakar
TRAVEL / 29

               Left page: A street
               stall in Dakar’s
               suburbs (top); A
               colonial building on
               Île de Gorée (bottom
               left); The local catch
               (bottom right).

                                                                                    Mirjam Bleeker
               film, The Endless Summer? See the wave they are surfing right
               over there?” he says, pointing at a powerful rising crest. “That’s
               what the movie is all about.” The 1966 cult surf documentary,                         “It’s scenes like this that create an unexpected
               which follows two young surfers who travel the world in search                           tranquillity that’s always close at hand”
               of the perfect wave, put this island on the international surfing
               map for the first time.
                   Back on the mainland, we travel to the twin hills called
               Collines des Mamelles. They’re located at the westernmost
               point of the African continent. To get there, we cross several of
               Dakar’s suburban neighbourhoods, including Ndeureuhnou,
               Diongarane, Les Almadies and Ouakam. It’s easy to see that
                                                                                                       Day trips from Dakar
               Dakar is a city that’s constantly on the move: new buildings                            Lac Rose
               are being built in every direction, and each is in a different                          About 30 km from downtown Dakar is Lac Retba,
               stage of completion. Senegal’s capital, and biggest city, is                            more commonly known as Lac Rose for the colour
               progressing quickly, as the country develops, but it’s still                            of its waters.
               possible to catch glimpses of a previous era. Dakar was                                 It’s at its most vivid in the dry season, when high
               founded by the French in 1857 and this influence can still be                           salt content attracts the Dunaliella salina algae,
               seen in some of the architecture. Examples include Dakar                                which produces a red pigment. The lake is only an
               Hospital and the Marché Kermel, a covered European-style                                hourʼs drive away, and can be reached by public
               market in the centre of town selling fresh produce, crafts and                          bus, although a private taxi is the most convenient
               souvenirs. The original structure burned down in a fire, but it                         way to get there.
               was rebuilt in the original style in 1997.
                   Pervading the city, no matter where you go, is a strong                             Petite Côte
               sense of teranga: the traditional Senegalese culture of                                 Already seen the sandy beaches of Île de Gorée
               hospitality. This is particularly so at the frenetic markets,                           and Île de N’Gor? Head to La Petite Côte, where
               which are brought to life by the inhabitants of this diverse                            you’ll find 70 km of unspoilt coastline between
               metropolis who wear brightly coloured fabrics and sharply                               Dakar’s Cap-Vert peninsula and the Sine-Saloum
               tailored suits. Poet, philosopher and first President of Senegal                        Delta.
               Léopold Sédar Senghor – the man who Dakar’s airport is
               named after – loved Dakar and predicted that it would have a                            Îles de la Madeleine
               bright future. It’s easy to see why: Dakar has a tangible pride                         Dakar is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the
               and fresh, seaside city spirit that sets it aside from other West                       Cap-Vert peninsula, and there are many islands
               African capitals.                                                                       to be found that can be easily reached from the
                                                                                                       city itself. In December, the uninhabited Îles de la
                   TO THE LIGHTHOUSE                                                                   Madeleine is a haven for watching wild migratory
                   That Senegalese pride is also apparent in the colossal                              birds.
               bronze statue on top of one of the Collines des Mamelles.
               At 49 metres tall, the African Renaissance Monument is
               the tallest statue in Africa. Unveiled in 2010, it commemorates
               Senegal’s independence from France in 1960. Inside, a daunt-
               ing number of steps take you to the top for a sweeping view of
               this city of over a million, dotted with minarets and steeples.
                   Senegal is mainly Muslim, but in most places, it’s not
               necessary to cover up knees, head or shoulders as non-Muslim                            When to visit
               visitors. That of course is not the case when you want to visit                         Most tourists visit Senegal from November to
               the Grand Mosque of Dakar in the city’s downtown area, or                               March, with a peak during the holiday season. But
               the seaside Mosque of the Divinity: an architectural gem with                           you can visit Dakar at any time of the year.
               arresting ocean views.
                                                                                                       Getting around
Getty Images

                   Atop the other hill is the photogenic, white Les Mamelles
               Lighthouse. Built in 1864 to help sailors navigate the seas                             Dakar is notorious for its traffic, so be prepared.
               around these parts, the lighthouse, which is still being >                              Most of the time, taxis are your best bet.
30 / TRAVEL / Dakar

                                                    Left: A shop selling
                                                    African leather bags
                                                    (top); The Les Mamelles
                                                    Lighthouse (bottom left);
                                                    Two children in front of
                                                    a house facade on Île de
                                                    Gorée (bottom right).

                                                    used, is open daily for visitors; it’s even possible to see the
                                                    original curved Fresnel lens that still illuminates the city at
                                                    night. The best thing after the climb up? Restaurant Le Phare
                                                    des Mamelles next door offers some great meals and simply
                                                    stunning views.
                                                        After eating, we head to the southern side of the Cap-
                                                    Vert peninsula, where there’s another boat trip to be had.
                                                    This time, we set sail – on a bigger boat – for another nearby
                                                    island, Île de Gorée, which is only 20 minutes away.
                                                        The easy-going vibe, friendly locals enjoying their day
                                                    outside and the vividly coloured buildings paint a picture of
                                                    an island idyll that is a world away from Île de Gorée’s darker
                                                    history. From the 15th century to the 19th century, it served as
                                                    an outpost for the Atlantic slave trade. The island is now a
                                                    UNESCO World Heritage Site attracting countless visitors
                                                    from around the world. Built by the Dutch in 1772, the infa-
                                                    mous House of Slaves is now a museum, acting as an enduring
   “The sun is coming in through the open windows   memorial and symbol of freedom lost. Although most head
             along with the ocean wind”             back to Dakar on the same day, we spend the night on the
                                                    island, at the beautifully situated Villa Castel.

                                                         HIBISCUS HUES
Where to eat                                            The next day is the last day of our trip. We board a boat
Bayékou                                             to return to the mainland and stop off at restaurant La
This Mediterranean restaurant in N’Gor does         Cabane du Surfeur for a final view of the sea. The waiter
some of the best fish dishes. The ceviche comes     encourages us to try “the best bissap in Dakar”, as we really
highly recommended.                                 can’t head home without having tasted it. This is just one of
                                                    the many places that serves the vivid pink juice, made by
La Cabane du Surfeur                                infusing hibiscus flowers in hot water. From the poolside
More than just a surfer’s den, this restaurant on   of Radisson Blu Hotel’s infinity pool, to the small family-run
the Petit Corniche serves some outstanding food.    fruit shops, you can get it anywhere. And like this fruity fresh
Try the shrimps on their layered outside terrace.   drink, the city and its tropical surroundings already beg for
                                                    another taste. There’s so much yet to experience: the scenic
Chez Fatou                                          coasts of Senegal’s Petite Côte south of Dakar, the colonial
This restaurant is popular with expats. Make a      city of Saint-Louis, a day trip to the pink waters of Lac Rose
reservation on weekend nights.                      or the tranquillity of the Îles de la Madeleine. Although we’re
                                                    leaving, we know it won’t be long before we’ll be back for more.
The Lulu Café
Come here for great coffee, a hip vibe and an
adjoining book and design store. lulu.sn

Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers
Hands-down the cutest restaurant, with beautiful
sights over the beach on Île de Gorée.
                                                                                                                       Joost Bastmeijer, Getty Images

Le Phare des Mamelles
Located in a building that used to be part of the    ➔
adjacent lighthouse, this restaurant offers great
views. The only downside? The US$9 admission.       Plan your trip
pharedesmamelles.com                                Book your flight to Dakar
                                                    on kenya-airways.com
TRAVEL / 31

               A man watches over
               Dakar’s skyline from
               a bench near Île de
               Gorée’s ‘Mémorial
               Gorée-Almadies.
credit xxxxx
32 / PEOPLE / Dancers

                       Movers And
                        Shakers
                  To make it as a dancer you need passion,
                dedication and drive. But before that, there’s a
                 dream. And the courage to go for it. These
                DANCE STARS are making their mark with
                         every jump, leap and twirl.
                                                        text Eromo Egbejule

               Michaela
                                                                       THE CHILDHOOD of Michaela DePrince, born
                                                                  in 1995 as Mabinty Bangura in war-torn Sierra Leone,
                                                                  could not be further removed from the ballet star’s

               DePrince
                                                                  current life. After losing her parents at the age of three,
                                                                  she ended up in an orphanage where her vitiligo
                                                                  condition meant that she was thought to be cursed.
                                                                       Seeing a picture of a ballerina on the cover of a
               Country                                            magazine gave DePrince something to dream about.
               Sierra Leone                                       And, when she was evenutally adopted by an American
                                                                  family – after 12 other families had refused to take her
               Current home                                       – she could finally start becoming the girl in that photo.
               Amsterdam, the Netherlands                              The young dancer went on to attend the Rock
                                                                  School for Dance Education in Philadelphia, but as
               Highlights                                         she told Vogue Italia, she also encountered prejudice
               Forthcoming film, Taking Flight, about             there. “As a child, I didn’t understand why there were
               her life, which is being directed by               no black students in dance schools; classmates and
               Madonna; Performing in Beyoncé’s music             teachers made me feel different and tried steering me
               video, Lemonade;                                   toward modern dance,” she says. “Now, I no longer feel
               Ambassador for War Child                           discriminated against: things are changing, but classical
                                                                  dance should be more open to ethnic diversity.”
               Style                                                   The 2011 documentary, First Position, traces her
               Classical ballet                                   preparations for the Youth America Grand Prix, the
                                                                  world’s largest student ballet competition. Her talent
               Online                                             was rewarded with a scholarship to the prestigious
               michaeladeprince.com                               American Ballet Theatre programme for young dancers.
                                                                       Her fierce determination has brought her to the
                                                                  top. She’s now a soloist for the Dutch National Ballet,
                                                                  and stars in a Beyoncé video. “It’s not a fairy tale,” she
                                                                  said, speaking to NBC News. “You have to work hard.
                                                                  There’s a lot of loss, a lot of pain. But performing?
                                                                  I love it.” She has written a memoir and is ambassador
                                                                  for Dutch NGO War Child, which helps children in
                                                                  conflict zones to soar beyond their backgrounds.
PEOPLE / 33

                                                 “As a child, I didn’t
                                                understand why there
                                                were no black students
                                                  in dance schools”
Image: Jacqueline de Haas Quote: Vogue Italia
34 / PEOPLE / Dancers

Agnes

                                                                                                                                              Styling: Connie Aluoch Styling Management Email: info@conniealuoch.com Photography: Victor Murithiw (Julikana Agency) Photographer’s Assistant: Daniel Chege
Kiunga
Stage name
Aggie the Dance Queen

Country
Kenya

Current home

                                                                                                                                              Fashion Assistants: Stephanie Njoki & Tara Chao Hair: Shiro Wanyoike Makeup: Mwaju Chaks Makeup
Nairobi, Kenya

Highlights
Resident choreographer at Coke Studio Africa
Performance at the 2018 Bahrain Grand Prix

Style
Contemporary, hip-hop, pop

Online
Instagram: @aggie_the_dance_queen

                 “I can’t believe that one video has brought so much
                     inspiration and a new wave of appreciation”

     FAME CAME calling for Agnes Kiunga, popularly known                   For this Kenyan choreographer and fitness instructor,
by her stage name “Aggie the Dance Queen”, in 2018 when she            dancing is a lifestyle. It’s something of an unexpected lifestyle,
became an instant Internet sensation starring in the hit music         however, for someone who originally started her career in a very
video, Short N Sweet, by Kenyan band, Sauti Sol.                       different direction, studying biology at Kenyatta University. She
     The almost effortless-looking stylish cool of her dance           even has a Bachelor’s degree in the subject.
moves, together with her colourful striped jumpsuit, immediately           Kiunga’s journey into professional dancing first began in 2012
captivated viewers at home and abroad, sending her career as a         when she started working with the famous Kenyan dance group,
dancer spinning into a higher orbit.                                   Sarakasi Trust. During her six years there, she worked with many
     Kiunga has since gone on to shine in performances around the      African artists, appearing in both local and international music
world, including the 2018 Formula 1 Grand Prix auto race in            videos. She credits choreographer and dancer, Oscar Mwalo, for
Bahrain. “My neighbours are a bit shocked to realise that I’m the      playing a formative role as one of her teachers; and the two are
same chick who has been living next to them all this time,” she        now married.
said, speaking to Kenya newspaper, Daily Nation. But, she’s quick          The colourful dance styles that she creates with and for artists
to stress that the video brought more than personal success; it also   and dancers from all over the continent are a testament to the
made people appreciate dance as a career in Kenya.                     young dancer’s zest and individuality.
PEOPLE / 35

Sherrie
Silver
Country
Rwanda

Current home
London, UK

Highlights
MTV Video Music Award for choreography, 2018
Choreography for Childish Gambino video

Style
Contemporary, hip-hop, pop

Online
sherriesilver.com; Instagram: @sherriesilver

                                                                                                                                          Belange Okandju, mcmedialondon.com
         “I don’t just do this for fun...I want to give back.
  I travel and teach African dance from all over the continent”

    SHERRIE SILVERʼS trajectory is definitely one for the            as a hobby. As a teenager, she recorded YouTube videos of herself
books. In 2018, she choreographed the viral This Is America          doing popular African dance moves, adding catchy twists and
video, by US musician Childish Gambino. In the video, which          reimagining the dances of her roots.
has gone on to garner almost 600 million views on YouTube,                 With the fame that came with the videos, Silver set out on
Silver incorporated fun, energetic African-inspired dance moves      a path to an impressive career, working with superstars such as
from all over the continent, including Ghana’s Alkayida, Nigeria’s   Wizkid, Sean Paul and Tiwa Savage. It was through one of those
Shaku Shaku and South Africa’s Gwara Gwara.                          videos that she was approached by Childish Gambino.
    “Dance is everything to us,” she said, speaking to Rwanda’s            When she’s not making music videos, she teaches African
New Times. “No matter how much is going on; even if it’s in the      dance, acts and uses her platform for philanthropy. “I don’t just
middle of a war or poverty or hunger, one thing Africans share is    do this for fun,” she told OkayAfrica. “I really do it because I
that we dance our sorrows away. Not even professionally, it’s just   want to give back. I travel and teach African dance from all over
a part of our culture.”                                              the continent. I take the money I generate from teaching back to
    Born in Rwanda, her earliest memories were of dancing in         Rwanda, Uganda and Nigeria to redevelop schools and help get
church and performing for family members. Her family moved to        homeless kids off the street. For me, it’s not just about dancing;
the UK when she was five and it was there that she began dancing     it’s the actual outcome that matters most.”
36 / PEOPLE / Dancers

Kafayat
Oluwatoyin
Shafau
Stage name
Kaffy

Country
Nigeria

Current home
Lagos, Nigeria

Highlights
Broke the Guinness World Record for “Longest Dance
Party” in 2006; Best Female Dancer of the Year at
the African Muzik Magazine Awards, 2014; Best
Choreographer of the Year at The Beatz Awards, 2015

Style
Contemporary, pop, Afrobeat

Online
Instagram: @kaffydance

                                                                                                                                            Jerrie Rotimi
                              “I have an opportunity to directly impact
                                    people’s lives for the better”

    THE NIGERIAN dancer, choreographer and fitness coach             choreographies, which were characterised by vigorous movements,
– popularly known as “Kaffy” – was born in Lagos as Kafayat          were unlike what people were used to. This led her to work with
Oluwatoyin Shafau.                                                   the likes of Tiwa Savage, P-Square and D’banj, among others.
    She initially studied to be an aeronautical engineer before          In 2015, Shafau won Best Choreographer of the Year at The
turning to dance. It proved to be a good gamble, after she was       Beatz Awards. More recently, she received a Special Recognition
discovered while performing during a dance rehearsal session at      Award at the 2018 version of the Headies.
the Lagos National Stadium.                                              The founder and owner of Imagneto Dance Company, Shafau
    In 2006, she and her dance crew danced for 55 hours and          created The Dance Workshop: a programme to train and mentor
40 minutes at the Nokia Silverbird Danceathon, breaking the          aspiring professional dancers, as well as promote cultural exchange
Guinness World Record for “Longest Dance Party”. From then           within the Nigerian dance industry. She aims to ensure that dancers
on, her impressive career took off and she began establishing        are better paid and able to earn a sustainable income.
herself as a dynamic symbol for dance in Nigeria. “At the time           “I have an opportunity to directly impact people’s lives for the
I did it, dance was not popular,” she explains.                      better, empower people’s minds. I couldn’t have chosen better,”
    Shafau’s stamina and energy set her apart, earning her a place   she says.
in many of the music videos being released at the time. Her new
PEOPLE / 37

Somizi
Mhlongo
Stage name
SomGaga

Country
South Africa

Current home
Johannesburg, South Africa

Highlights
Choreography for the 2010 FIFA World Cup opening
and closing ceremonies; choreography for the African
Cup of Nations 2013 ceremonies; the face of global
cosmetics brand Black Opal; choreography for the
South African Music Awards

Style
Contemporary, pop, Gqom, Kwaito

Online
Instagram: @somizi

                                                                                                                                           ANP Foto
   “I was born into a family of superstars, so it wouldn’t make
                sense for fame to get to my head”

     A MAN of many talents, Somizi Buyani Mhlongo is a chore-              He’s danced in heels and in outlandish costumes, he’s danced
ographer, TV and radio personality, actor and singer. He also goes    for social justice and more. In 2017, he was the ambassador for
by the name “SomGaga”.                                                the Department of Water and Sanitation in South Africa and
     Born in 1972 in Soweto, South Africa to two veteran actors,      evolved again in the same year to release dance workout videos
Mhlongo was exposed to the entertainment world from a very            incorporating South African moves.
young age. “I was born into a family of superstars, so it wouldn’t         Known for his trademark carefree style and contagious cheer,
make sense for fame to go to my head,” he says. “My parents           he lent his experience to upcoming dancers, stepping in as a judge
were famous but we were still poor. It taught me that fame is         in TV talent show competitions. “To me that is the joy of it. I
just status.”                                                         don’t feel threatened at all for I aim to give up-and-coming
     He made his acting debut at the age of 13 and in 1987, joined    choreographers a chance,” he says.
the broadway musical Sarafina!, travelling the world for five years        With over 30 years of experience, Mhlongo has become one
with the production. In 1992, he made his big dance break in the      of the most notable personalities in the country. Proving that he
film adaptation of Sarafina!, which he choreographed and starred      truly is a man of many faces, last year he was named ambassador
in. Three years later, he starred in another popular adaptation,      of Black Opal, the first male to represent the brand and first
Cry, The Beloved Country.                                             African man to be the face of a makeup company.
38 / TRAVEL / Facts
Baggage allowance on Kenya Airways                                                                                         Kenya Airways strives to
flights is usually 32 kg per piece for                                                                                     deliver all baggage within

                                 Loading And Offloading
business guests and 23 kg per                                                                                                  20 minutes of arrival.
piece for economy guests.

                                                                                                                           Kenya Airways
                                                                                                                           operates two
                                                                                                                           Boeing 737
                                                                                                                           aircraft that fly
 The Boeing 787                                                                                                            as full freighters
 Dreamliner can                                                                                                            to 17 different
 transport over 40                                                                                                         destinations across
 tonnes of cargo, the                                                                                                      the continent.
 Boeing 737-800
 can carry 8.4 tonnes
 and the Embraer
 190 holds approx.
 3.3 tonnes.

   Hold baggage and cargo shipments are transported            and sky-priority baggage is normally loaded last so that
   to their destination below the cabin in the belly of an     it’s offloaded first on arrival.
   aircraft, which is right underneath passengers’ feet. “No   Njoroge explains that baggage or cargo can either be
   effort is spared to ensure that the baggage or the cargo    loaded as bulk pieces that are tied down using hold nets
   shipment is under watertight security, carefully sorted     or be put into consolidated units – either containers,
   at the baggage ‘make-up’ area and delivered for loading     pallets or Unit Load Devices (ULDs) – to ease handling.
                                                                                                                                                        Text: Captain Bajaber Image: Alamy

   into the aircraft,” says Manager Ramp Services Samuel       “Loading and offloading is done using heavy, complicated
   Njoroge. “A team of loading staff, led by a turnaround      and military-looking machines, such as high loaders
   coordinator, ensures that cargo is loaded right inside      and belt loaders, which are operated by qualified ground
   the belly, while the baggage is loaded next to the belly    staff. Kenya Airways has invested in a tracking system
   hold door to ensure quick offloading and delivery to the    that allows the loading team to determine – by a click of
   baggage claim area upon arrival.” Fragile baggage or        a button – if all baggage has been loaded or offloaded.
   cargo is loaded with special care, and business class       If not, it helps us to track down its location.”
40 / BUSINESS / New industry

                           WHITE
                           GOLD
                   As CAMEL MILK is increasingly being
                   recognised for its HEALTH BENEFITS,
                   more and more entrepreneurs are waking
                      up to the business potential of these
                           drought-resistant animals.
                                 text Andrea Dijkstra

                                                              Shutterstock
BUSINESS / 41

                                              litres a month, delivering both camel
                                              milk and four different flavours of camel
                                              yogurt to supermarkets in the Kenyan
                                              capital.
                                                                                               big supermarkets such as Carrefour and
                                                                GLOBAL BUZZ                    Chandarana Foodplus, and collaborates
                                                  “With camel milk being so nutri-             with allergists at Aga Khan University
                                              tious, it’s on track to becoming the new         Hospital, Nairobi Hospital and Kenyatta
                                              superfood,” says Warsame, referring to           National Hospital. “They’re doing trials
                                              other African “superfoods” that are              with our camel milk and the responses
                                              drawing western customers due to their           are very good; especially with patients
                                              high content of nutrients and antioxi-           with diabetes and lactose intolerance,”
                                              dants, such as baobab and tamarind               adds Warsame. He hopes that Kenya
     INSIDE HAMDI, a busy Nairobi             fruit, hibiscus tea, pumpkin leaves and          will become the global research hub for
café in the Central Business District, the    ancient grains, including Ethiopia’s tef         camel milk.
morning rush is already underway. What        and Senegal’s fonio.                                  Entrepreneurs in other African coun-
will it be? A macchiato, flat white, or           WhiteGold, a camel-milk-processing           tries are joining the camel-dairy business
what about a “camelcino”? Made with           company that kick-started operations in          as well. In Mauritania, the Tiviski dairy
Kenyan camel milk, it looks just like a       the Kenyan town of Nanyuki in 2017, is           has been successful in ending the reliance
regular cappuccino, but at the first sip,     seeking approval from the European               on imported long-life and powdered
there’s a smoky saltiness that’s different,   Food Safety Authority and the Food               cow’s milk by setting up a camel-milk-
but quite tasty. “We also do tea and a        and Drug Administration in the US to             processing factory, providing the people
vanilla shake with camel milk,” says          start exporting to those regions. “In the        with a fresh and healthy alternative. The
waitress Sofia Gitau.                         West, camel milk is being sold as medici-        company currently produces camel milk,
     Traditionally, only pastoralist com-     nal, so that’s a super interesting market,”      camel butter and camel cheese. In Chad
munities drank camel milk; but today          says founder Jama Warsame (no relation           and Kenya, milk cafés are helping to
camelcinos are popping up in multiple         to Bashir Warsame). WhiteGold is now             popularise the consumption of the milk,
Nairobi cafés because the middle class is     producing 13,000 litres of camel milk per        while Egypt’s Tayyiba Farms offers
developing a taste for camel milk. And        month. In Kenya, the company sells to            a range of products including camel >
not just there. Worldwide, a growing
number of health-conscious consumers
are turning to camel milk because of its
nutritional benefits. Camel milk has
three times as much vitamin C as cow’s
milk, ten times the iron, has less fat and                            “With camel milk being so nutritious,
is rich in vitamin B. And, there are
hopes that it can help control diabetes
                                                                 it’s on track to becoming the new superfood”
because it contains natural insulin. Also,
with less lactose than cow’s milk, it’s
thought that camel milk is better for
those with a lactose allergy.
     The Food and Agriculture Organiza-
tion of the United Nations estimates
that the global camel milk industry
could be worth up to US$10 billion a
year. And in Kenya, there’s talk of a
“camel rush” as demand outstrips supply.
The country’s camel-dairy business is
still in a nascent phase, however, with
much of the “white gold” being sold in
domestic markets. But, a new group of
entrepreneurs is now tapping into this
business and trying to move from the
traditional consumption of camel milk
towards pasteurised and powdered
                                              Jeroen van Loon

forms. “We chose to pasteurise the camel
milk to extend the shelf life and make it
widely available to communities
throughout Kenya,” says Bashir
Warsame, who launched camel-milk-             Going global
processing firm Nuug Camel Milk in            Camel-milk cappuccinos are not only popping in Nairobi. UAE company Camelicious is selling a
Nairobi last year. The entrepreneur           pre-packaged version, and “camelcinos” are also making a careful appearance on café menus
sources from herders in the southern          internationally. Last summer, Glasgowʼs Willow Tea Rooms attracted national attention when it
and central towns of Voi and Isiolo           teamed up with international NGO Mercy Corps to support Kenyan camel-milk initiatives. Coming
respectively. He produces roughly 9,000       soon to a café near you perhaps?
42 / BUSINESS / New industry

                                              “ships of the desert”. “With camels you
                                              always have milk in your house,” says Ole
                                              Nkiu, a Maasai. He bought camels after
                                              almost half of his 190 cows died during a
                                              severe drought 10 years ago.
                                                  The higher price of the milk attracts
 “Thanks to the profits                       new camel owners as well, according to
                                              Simpkin. “At US$1 a litre, a camel owner
                                                                                                 Wajir County, Mercy Corps has helped
                                                                                                 to install refrigerated vending machines
 from camel milk, I’m                         receives five times the price of cow’s             for camel milk, allowing traders to
                                              milk,” says the researcher, who adds               deliver it fresh to the customer without
  able to send my eight                       that cows and camels can live very well            it going sour; and CELEP has bought a
   children to school”                        together as they eat different vegetation.
                                                  However, entrepreneurs face some
                                                                                                 refrigerated truck to transport their
                                                                                                 camel milk to the capital daily. These
                                              challenges, such as the camels’ remote             measures are being helped by an
                                              location, which means that camel milk              increase in herders who keep camels
                                              has to be transported over long distances.         closer to Nairobi, which makes it easier
                                              The milk quickly sours in temperatures             for camel milk to be transported quickly
cheese, kefir and Greek yogurt. Nuug is       averaging 40 degrees Celsius in the north          to the processing factories.
also exploring the development of vari-       of Kenya, where the majority of camels                 Many of the entrepreneurs involved
ous camel-milk products, including            are kept. “And by nature, camels prefer to         believe that camel milk can become an
cheese, ice cream and cosmetics.              graze deep in the wild, often far from             important export for Kenya. “Eighty-
                                              good roads, electricity and other essential        nine percent of Kenya’s land mass
   CLIMATE CHANGE                             infrastructure,” Bashir Warsame says,              consists of arid and semi-arid lands,
    Shifting from cows to camels is           making it harder to source the milk.               which are suitable for camels,” says
also interesting from a climate change        These factors have slowed the develop-             Bashir Warsame, adding that it has the
perspective as the gangly cud-chewers         ment of the industry.                              potential to grow into a multi-billion-
are much more drought-resistant. “In              Several organisations have come up             dollar business that can change the lives
a bad drought, a cattle owner will lose       with creative solutions. For example, in           of herders and milk traders alike.
about 50 percent of his herd, while with
camels it’s rare to lose more than 16
percent,” says Piers Simpkin, a camel
expert who has studied the animals for
over 30 years. As numerous parts of
Kenya have become drier, according to
the Kenya Camel Association, in recent
years, over 150,000 Kenyans have started
to keep camels.
    Mariam Maalim is one of them. She
keeps camels in the fields near Isiolo
town. “My husband and I had over 100
cattle, but as the climate became drier in
this region, the cows stopped producing
milk and around 30 of our cows died
yearly,” says Maalim. “This made us
decide to switch to camels as they can
survive without water and continue to
give milk for more than two weeks.”
    Maalim and around 30 other women
founded the Anolei Women’s Camel
                                                                                                                                              Jeroen van Loon

Milk Cooperative (CELEP) and now
bring about 5,000 litres of camel milk to
an Isiolo distribution point every day.
“Thanks to the profits from camel milk,
I’m able to send my eight children to
school and one even goes to university,”      Facts & figures
says Maalim while handing in her filled       • The one-humped Arabian camels, or dromedaries, inhabit the Horn of Africa and the Middle East
jerrycans. The flavour fluctuates from             and make up 94% of the world’s camel population, while the critically endangered two-humped
almost sweet to salty, depending on what           Bactrian camels inhabit Central Asia.
the camels eat. Here, the smoke used to       • Camels store fat in their humps, not water. As a camel goes without food, its hump begins to
sterilise the jerrycans adds a slightly            shrink.
smoky taste.                                  • Camels can raise their body temperature tolerance level as much as six degrees Celsius before
    Today, even members of the Maasai              perspiring, thereby conserving body fluids and avoiding unnecessary water loss.
people – who traditionally rely on cows       • Somalia is the largest camel-milk producer in the world, followed by Kenya and Mali.
– are starting to see the benefits of these   • In Sub-Saharan Africa, camels now contribute about 5% of the total milk production.
44 / BUSINESS / Book review

                                                  “Become a more
                                                effective leader and
                                                 team participant”
        Strategic Doing:                      A fast-changing world calls for agile leaders;
          Ten Skills for
        Agile Leadership                      people who can lead transformation by
                                              unleashing our full human potential through
                Authors                       collaboration. Where to start? Here are three
     Edward Morrison, Scott Hutcheson,
     Elizabeth Nilsen, Janyce Fadden and      crucial skills from the book, Strategic Doing.
                Nancy Franklin

               Publisher
                    Wiley                     Frame the conversation                    differentiates the successful groups
                                              What does five plus five equal? There’s   from those that had more limited
                    Bio                       only one right answer. But what if        impact. Simply put, 30/30s provide
       The five authors of this book are      instead you ask: What two numbers         the learning and accountability a
     members of the Strategic Doing core      equal 10? Suddenly there are more         team needs to make optimal choices
       team, linked to the Purdue Agile       possibilities. The authors use this       and to stay engaged”. In turbulent
      Strategy Lab. Together, they have       example, by Tina Seelig of Stanford       times, consider getting together more
      more than 50 years of experience        University, to demonstrate the power      frequently. Why? “A system without
    helping groups adopt an agile strategy    of the questions we pose. “A good         a feedback loop can spin out of
                  approach.                   framing question is an invitation to      control.” Just think of what would
                                              deeper conversation that will lead        happen to a heating system without
                  Pages                       to more questions, experimentation        a thermostat.
                     224                      and, ultimately, innovation.”

               Summary                        Look for the big easy
      The 10 skills in this book are tools    As an agile leader you should be able
      designed to help leaders build and      to sort through “many options to
      guide the complex collaborations        identify one that has the best chance
     needed to deal with today’s complex      of success”. This is the one that “has
    challenges. None of us will be equally    the largest impact and is the easiest
       good at all the skills, the authors    to implement”. But, resist the urge
    recognise. Members of the team can        to go “big” when it comes to the size
       bring different skills to the table.   of the challenge, the authors warn.
                                              Take baby steps if necessary to foster                    About the book
                                              early successes.                                          Each chapter introduces
                                                                                                        a different skill needed
                                              Set 30/30 meetings                                        for agile leadership and
                                              Create a regular “feedback loop” by                       features a case study as
                                                                                                                                      Text: Annemarie Hoeve

                                              organising 30-minute meetings every                       well as suggested exercises
                                              30 days to review results and make                        about how to put each skill
                                              any necessary changes. This is the                        to work.
                                              skill, that, “more than any other,
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