"CONTINUITY IS REQUIRED IN A CRISIS" - FERMENTATION Nature's molecular machines p 22 - IKW
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www.cossma.com | E51280 6/2021
FERMENTATION
Nature’s molecular
machines
p 22
NEW REGULATION
CSAR in China
p 42
“CONTINUITY IS
REQUIRED IN A
CRISIS”
Birgit Huber, Head of Beauty
Care Department, IKW
p 56
Continuity in times of crisis
Challenges | Like the entire cosmetics industry, the IKW, short for
the body care and detergent industry association, has been severely COVER-
affected by the effects of the pandemic in the past few months. We INTERVIEW
talked to Birgit Huber about changes and perspectives.
NN Birgit Huber, How long have you been at IKW advise regarding cosmetics competent-
Deputy Director General, Head of and what still inspires you? ly. The fact that I can actively shape
Beauty Care Department, IKW, processes inspires me every day.
Frankfurt am Main, Germany, Since I have always been enthusiastic
www.ikw.org about cosmetics, I started working as How did IKW react to the challeng-
a scientific assistant at IKW immedia- es of the pandemic? How did the
tely after studying food technology. association support cosmetics
That was more than 30 years ago. companies during the pandemic?
And even today, I am still enthusias-
tic about the versatility of my tasks. During the pandemic, the IKW core
I’m a member of various scientific competencies were particularly in
and technical working groups, such demand. As a valued contact and
photo: REDPIXEL.PL/Shutterstock.com
as the Cosmetics Commission at the interface between authorities, in-
Federal Institute for Risk Assessment, dustry, consumers, and the media,
and in European committees, such as IKW reacted very quickly to the
in the board of Cosmetics Europe, the new challenges. For example, when
European umbrella organisation for disinfectants were in short supply
cosmetics. It is one of my tasks to at the beginning of the pandemic,
answer all questions to inform and IKW successfully lobbied the
56 l COSSMA 6I2021
PERSONALITY & PROFILES
essential and could therefore con- What role have cosmetics and
tinue to produce during the beauty routines played for con-
lockdown. sumers since the beginning of the
pandemic?
How has the cosmetic and beauty
care product market changed Even if beauty routines have changed
because of the pandemic? during the pandemic and people are
using certain products less – perso-
The pandemic has hit the cos- nal care and cosmetics are still very im-
metics and beauty care market more portant in the everyday life of German
in some categories than in others. consumers and contribute to their
The greatest impact can certainly well-being. This was confirmed by
be traced back to the fact that 93% of respondents in a survey con-
people had to reduce their social ducted by Statista during the pande-
contacts and increasingly worked mic. We decided very early last year
from home. This eliminated many to carry out this survey because we
occasions for which one would put wanted to know more about people’s
on make-up, hair style or apply beauty routines and if they have chan-
perfume. This is reflected in the ged during the pandemic. The results
sales figures for the product catego- showed very clearly that beauty pro-
ries that lost significantly in 2020, ducts and beauty routines help to struc-
such as decorative cosmetics and ture everyday life, particularly in ti-
women’s and men’s fragrances. In mes of uncertainty. 61% of the respon-
addition, there is the closure of dents in the survey also say that their
shops, such as perfumeries, and appearance is just as important to
the associated changes in shopping them as it was before. And 77% say
habits. Due to short-time work, some they spend as much time in the bath-
consumers also have less money room as they did before.
available.
How optimistically does the cos-
Are there also winners in this metics industry see the year 2021?
authorities and ministries responsible sector? If so, how did they benefit?
in Germany to obtain a broader The pandemic is creating unprece-
exemption so that sufficient quan- Yes, there are also products that dented challenges for companies –
tities of disinfectants could also be were particularly in demand due to starting with difficulties in sourcing
made available to private consu- their performance during the pan- raw materials, production under dif-
mers in a short time. As a commit- demic: soaps and syndets, for examp- ficult conditions, through to closed
ted industry association, we also le. As regular and careful hand shops and reduced contacts. As it
stood by associated sectors in a spirit hygiene is one of the effective me- stands, many of these challenges
of partnership and, among other thods in the fight against the Corona- will continue for some time. Despite
things, supported hairdressers with a virus, this category recorded a signi- all this: A strong plus of the cosmetics
communication offensive during ficant increase of 77% last year. industry is that the companies are
the reopening after the first Linked to this, there is another very innovative and creative. The
lockdown. winner: Since people used more companies always strive to meet
Despite all the complexity, continuity soaps and disinfection products, customer’s needs and demands, for
is also required in a crisis. Despite the need for hand cream also example by developing new tech-
the massive restrictions on personal increased. We know from a survey, nologies and highly effective ingre-
contact, the association efficiently conducted by Statista on behalf of dients. At the same time, they react
continued established dialogues IKW, that hand cream has become extremely quickly to trends.
with stakeholders and the media and one of the most popular products in the Reduced customer communication
was always available with reliable pandemic. Furthermore, manufac- due to closed stores? I am sure, we
information about the industry’s turers report that products high- will see a lot more apps and
performance. lighting the eyes achieved a signifi- online-services making knowledge
We were also a constant compa- cant plus. This is very understan- about products, ingredients, and
nion for our member companies dable since Mascara and eyebrow routines more easily available in the
when it came to assistance with products are perfectly suited to give near future. For 2021, we see the
questions about the pandemic, your face more character and expres- mood among the IKW member com-
e.g. whether our industry was sion despite the face masks. panies as cautiously optimistic.
www.cossma.com l 57
PERSONALITY & PROFILES
The reduction in social contact and the frequent relocation of professional life to But there are also winners: The sale of hand care
the home office has slumped sales in many areas of the cosmetics industry. products has increased significantly in recent months.
In addition to the pandemic, what in this context: people are becoming test based on our expertise, a high
challenges will the cosmetics in- aware that living conditions as we degree of flexibility and commitment.
dustry have to face soon? What are enjoy them are not guaranteed. Due In an increasingly complex world,
the chances? to their proximity to consumers, the role of IKW as a reliable scientific
cosmetics manufacturers are particu- authority for companies and the
One of the important issues for the larly challenged to meet social public will continue to gain in
cosmetics industry continues to be demands and show a sense of respon- importance.
the influence of digitalisation on all sibility, for example through new
business processes. The pandemic technologies, resource-saving pro- To what extent have the tasks of
has once again accelerated this deve- ductions, sustainable packaging, or IKW changed because of globalisa-
lopment and showed where there is the selection of ingredients. As active tion and how will they continue to
still a need to catch up. Internet and co-creators of change, many cosme- change in the near future?
social media are the places where tics companies are already pursuing
today’s consumers inform themselves, ambitious sustainability program- Most of our member companies are
communicate with each other and mes and are exploring new ways to very active internationally. The origi-
buy their products – without online reduce the ecological footprint of nal aim of the association to help
shopping almost nothing would have their products. This development will member companies seize their
been possible in the last few months. continue to strengthen. opportunities in the “big European
And this is of course reflected in the market” has long since been
growth figures of e-commerce. Even What tasks does the IKW see in the expanded to include other markets
if consumers long to go back to the coming years? around the world. And this means
shops, the share of e-commerce will that the horizon of our activities has
remain high in the post-pandemic The challenges for our member com- also expanded. IKW supports its photo: Andrey Popov/Shutterstock.com, photo: Andrei David Stock/Shutterstock.com
period. So, if you want to be close to panies are also the challenges by members – many of whom are small
the customer, you must invest in the which our tasks are measured. The and medium-sized enterprises –
online shopping experience, in online demands for safety, effectiveness and through a variety of measures to
communication with consumers and in sustainability of products will remain open up foreign markets. These
the use of apps as digital service sup- very high. At the same time, chan- include, for example, providing
plements to products. ging economic conditions, such as market analyses, organising trade
those triggered by trade conflicts, are fairs abroad, accompanying busi-
What influence does the pandemic creating more uncertainties. In ad- ness initiation trips or issuing certifi-
have on developments around sus- dition, there are changes in legal cates of free sale. Even though the
tainability? regulations that can have an impact possibilities in these areas are
on production processes. Or sud- currently very limited, IKW will
Value-oriented action and environ- den global events, such as the continue to support its members in
mentally sound business practices pandemic now, for which we must achieving growth abroad as well.
are not new guiding principles for be prepared. But soon, the top priority for every-
industry, but they have taken on a Covid-19 is an enormous effort for one is that the economy picks up
new significance because of the pan- all of us. But it has also shown us speed again and society returns to its
demic. The pandemic acts as a catalyst that we can withstand such a stressful usual normality. Q
58 l COSSMA 6I2021
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