Personalisation, customisation, bespoke - Making "made-to-measure" a success - Emmanuelle Moeglin - Founder of Experimental Perfume Club In Cos ...
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Personalisation, customisation, bespoke - Making "made-to-measure" a success Emmanuelle Moeglin – Founder of Experimental Perfume Club In Cos March 2019
About us: Experimental Perfume Club Bespoke Fragrance House in London Fragrance design for individuals and brands & olfactory installations 3,000+ visitors to the lab per year including brands such as Dior, Mulberry, Hermes, Nike, Facebook… Collaborations with Ministry of Sound, Glennfidich, Soho House… LAYERS by Experimental Perfume Club First-to-market fragrance collections offering a blending experience and bespoke fragrance creation as in retail Fully customisable formulas to create your own fragrance Endless possibilities with every new trio
“Customisation”
“Customisation”
perso·nalisation
perso·nalisation//// be·spoke
be·spoke////made·to·measure
made·to·measure
To
Tomake
makeororalter
altertotoindividual
individualororpersonal
personalspecifications
specifications
“We
believe
customiza0on
is
the
new
form
of
luxury,
which
is
really
a
return
to
the
old
form
of
luxury
in
the
idea
of
having
something
made
just
for
you“
-‐
Dave
Gross
Founder
of
MatchCo
What / Before & now of personalisation
Customisation is not a new concept
• Add your own food toppings
• Your name on a coffee cup
• Choose your own colour or design for your shoe
• Create your own beauty product
Culminating today: Bespoke was the number one beauty
trend of 2018. It is becoming a must in marketing products.
• British Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Refinery29
• Respondents to the BoF-McKinsey Global Fashion survey identified
personalisation as the number one trend in 2018
Here to stay and evolve alongside technology
• An ever growing trend supported by the increasing accessibility of
technology and devices.
• Shift towards expectation for personalised products and services.
Skin
Inc.
asks
customers
a
host
of
ques0ons,
including
lifestyle
choices,
medica0ons
and
even
how
old
their
parents
look.
Why / Driven by
Increasing interest for more transparency, DIY / artisan and learning
• Revival of hand-made and craft goods – makers movement
• Increasing interest for independent, artisanal and niche
Ø Greater access to brands and to educate self
Consumers become co-creators
• Increasing intimacy when taking an active role in creating something
Ø Generates feelings of control, ownership and immediacy
Greater awareness & acceptation
• Social differences, gender, sexual orientation, ethnic diversity
• Lifestyle (vegan etc…)
Ø Creates more segmented and targeted market niche
Minorities are sizable niche
• 3.5m British vegan in 2018, 5% of US population identify as vegetarian, 3% as
vegan*
Ø With and estimated global population of 7.6bn there is no such things as
minorities anymore and all niche are sizable markets NikeID Customisable trainer
*Gallup 2018
How / Technology is changing consumers’ expectations
With the rise of digital help and algorithm comes greater
expectations
Our lifestyle is constantly scanned and analysed for our
benefit
• Google, Facebook + Instagram – targeted ads and news feed
• Netflix, Spotify - discover weekly, made for you playlists
• Compilation of consumer’s profile by all brands across all industries
Online is the perfect group focus platform
• Ability to build your own brand through social media (includes “me
branding” for influencers)
• Social media & chatbot allows brands to directly engage with their
customers and tweak their products based on direct feedback
• People looking for honest connections and conversations
Google Home – personal assistant
The rise of devices personal assistants
• Alexa, Google Home, Siri
“There
is
an
increasing
expecta0on
from
consumers
that
they
will
be
able
to
buy
a
product
that
suits
their
taste...
If
I
can
get
a
Subway
sandwich
made
to
exactly
my
specifica0on,
why
can’t
I
get
a
get
a
shampoo
that
works
with
my
curly
hair
and
oily
scalp,
and
has
a
scent
that
I
want?”
-‐
Simon
Driscoll,
founder
of
UXB
Skincare
36%
Of UK consumers express interest in purchasing
customised products or services
*Deloitte, 2018 70%
of US consumers expect personalisation from online
businesses
1 in 5 *Linkdex,
2018
who have expressed interest in personalised
products and services are willing to pay premium
*Deloitte, 2018 58%
Of UK and US consumers more likely to make a
52% purchase when a retailer recommends options for
them based on their past purchases or preferences
* Accenture Interactive, 2018
of consumers (global) say they’re likely to switch
brands if a company doesn’t make an effort to
personalise communications to them
*Salesforce 2017
40% 10%
Spanish, 35% of Italian, 32% of French beauty
of French beauty buyers have made a
buyers are interested in beauty and personal
customised beauty product in-store or online
care products/brands that can be personalised
58% 14%
Of French beauty buyers have taken a
French, 60% of Italian, 53% of Spanish, 39%
personality quiz to identify their beauty needs
German haven't done but would like to have
their skin/hair analysed to identify their beauty
needs
Mintel, 2018, base: internet users aged 16+, users or buyers of beauty or grooming productsThe different methods of customisation
Real = formula
• Pros: Offer the most in-depth level of customisation
• Cons: Trained, qualified or even expert staff, educative
communication
Assisted = service such as algorithms and devices
• Pros: Automation & scalability
• Cons: Not really a customised products
Aesthetical = packaging such as labels, engraving, colours
• Pros: Giftable, unique object
• Cons: Illusion of personalisation
Personalised formula + advanced algorithms or devices
+ personalised pack
= ultimate customisationCustomisation in : Fragrance
SILLAGES LAYERS EX NIHILO
Algorithm Customisation Blend Your Own Fragrance One-to-one with a blender
Answer four questions. Mix together two or three of your favourite ‘Osmologue’ machine
Let the algorithm choose a fragrance from Layers fragrances from the collection to Start with eight fragrances
create your unique scent.
the collection that suits you. Add your twist
Endless combinations
Or Picked by perfumers.Customisation in : Beauty
BARE MINERALS TRINNY LONDON CODE8
Scan Your Skin Algorithm Picks Create Your Own Lipstick
Match2Me algorithm. Colour iD lab instore
With the Made-2-Fit app.
Foundatios prepared in the lab to suit your Answer questions to be matched with Personalise a colour from 10 base
complexion. makeup for your skin, hair, and eyes colours or by choosing a pre-designed
Bottle engraved with your name Build your own stack of products colour from the colour coding guideCustomisation in : Skin Care
FACE GYM FOFO LUNA CLINIQUE ID
Expert Mixologists Face Mapping Custom Moisturiser
Blend your own serum at ‘the make it bar’ Skin analyzing massager device and app. Pick your base
with an expert mixologist. Reads hydration levels to deliver a fully Insert your cartridge specific to your
Choose from a custom blend of oils. personalized cleansing program. concern
Personalised label 15 combinationsCustomisation in : Fashion
STITCH FIX VICTORIA BECKHAM ADIDAS
Personalised Clothing Augmented Reality Chat Knit For You
Bots
A virtual personal stylist. Pop-up store.
Complete a style profile. Victoria Beckham partners with Facebook Guided design.
Algorithm delivers personalised packages and launches a chat bot for Facebook Body scan technology for perfect fit.
of pre-assorted clothing and accessories to Messenger, allowing users of her fashion Produces bespoke products in a few hours.
you on a monthly basis. brand to virtually try on pieces from her
latest capsule collection with the help of
Augmented Reality.Customisation in : Tech
HEALTH DEVICES ACCESSORIES
Fit Bit & Google Cloud Revols Nike Adapt BB
Data collection - how many steps and Custom made wireless earphones. Performance basketball shoe, a system that
flights of stairs you've climbed. Fits unique shape of your ear perfectly. combines an advanced self power-lacing
Generates personalized fitness plans. Data system and an app to create a custom fit
combined with medical records to deliver a and a fit that changes with the athletes
more complete health care profile to movements.
physicians in the USA.The challenges to mass customisation
Data Protection
• GDPR and consent
• Increased data protection will spur more regulation
• The future of bespoke services relies on data collection
Price & Scalability
• Bespoke services often come with a higher price tag
• Reduces accessibility into brand
• Barrier to mass production
Online services needs to mimic face-to-face
• Needs brand support & education
• Need to bring higher service and recommendation online
• Not all approaches to bespoke will sell on their own
• Customers prefers guidance and products already made for them
Mini
YOURS
service
enables
to
customise
small
parts
of
a
car
which
are
then
produced
with
3D
printers.
The future of customisation
ü Data collection will play a major part in the future of
customisation enabling a more personalised customer
experience
ü Devices will read facial expressions to enhance online
experience and offer product selection based on moods and
behaviour
ü 3D printing will make mass customisation affordable,
spurring brands to rethink their supply chain
ü AI and AR will help bridge online and physical store
experiences eg: personalising product display depending on who’s Neiman
Marcus
“Snap.
Find.
Shop.”
A
mobile
app
-‐
enabling
shoppers
to
upload
photos
of
objects
they
like
in
the
real
world
to
in front of it (analysing gender, age, style), robot personal assistants find
similar
products
in
the
catalogue.
will act as personal shopping assistantThank you! Emmanuelle Moeglin // founder & perfumer // Experimental Perfume Club 1 Westgate Street, London E8 3RL em@experimentalperfumeclub.com www.layers.experimentalperfumeclub.com
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