GRAND CANYON THREATENED - STILL - In the past few months Grand Canyon has been the object of multiple actions that could have significant impacts upon
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Number Fourteen preserving public access to the Colorado River Summer, 2012
GRAND CANYON THREATENED – STILL
In the past few months
Grand Canyon has been
the object of multiple
actions that could have
significant impacts upon
the iconic landscapes
that comprise the crown
jewel of our national
park system.
The Glen Canyon Dam LTEMP EIS has completed public scoping and planners are now
developing a range of alternatives based on a long list of criteria including comments
derived from public scoping and the recently completed public comment period. The
In this Issue purpose of the EIS is summarized on the LTEMP website as follows:
“GRAND CANYON THREATENED - STILL”............................ 1 “The Department of the Interior, through the Bureau of Reclamation (Reclamation)
and the National Park Service (NPS), will prepare an environmental impact statement
“SPRING ECOSYSTEMS OF THE GRAND CANYON”.............. 3
(EIS) for the adoption of a long-term experimental and management plan (LTEMP) for
“ON THE BACKS OF MULES ... ”......................................... 7 the operation of Glen Canyon Dam. The EIS will fully evaluate dam operations and will
provide the basis for decisions that identify management actions and experimental
POSTCARDS..................................................................... 8 options that will provide a framework for adaptively managing Glen Canyon Dam over
the next 15 to 20 years.”
“THE BEST IDEA”............................................................ 10
“TOO MUCH SUN”.......................................................... 12 Many stakeholders, including GCRRA, provided input during the public scoping period,
yet it is frequently the case that hydroelectric power interests will carry the most weight in
“INTO THE CANYON, TIME, AND SILENCE”....................... 14 discussions of how to best manage the dam.
Lew Steiger has contributed a thought-provoking and timely article to this issue of The
GCRRA DIRECTORS......................................................... 16 River Runner that, in part, addresses the LTEMP, the importance of which cannot be overstated.
JOIN GCRRA................................................................... 16 Simply put, this process is absolutely critical to the future health and recovery of the river
corridor between Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Mead. If you wish to get involved in the process
you can sign up for alerts and updates on the LTEMP website at http://ltempeis.anl.gov./index.cfm.
(cont. p.2)
-1-
In a disturbing and startling announcement, the Navajo Dr. Larry Stevens has written a highly informative article about
Nation has unveiled plans for an aerial tram to be built into the cliffs the Canyon’s seeps and springs in this issue of The River Runner. In
of Grand Canyon in order to carry visitors from the rim to near the it he discusses this interconnectivity and addresses the potential
confluence with the Little Colorado River. There visitors will find a for irreparable harm that the Tusayan development could pose for
restaurant and restrooms at river level before returning via this same hundreds of localized ecosystems that revolve around seeps and
tram to a large tourism complex on the rim overlooking the Canyon. springs within Grand Canyon.
So far there is little detail available to address concerns about One potential attack on Grand Canyon was averted for the
water supply and light and noise pollution since plans also tentatively time being when, on January 9, 2012, Secretary of the Interior Ken
include a new airport at the rim complex. The proposed project Salazar imposed a 20-year moratorium on development of all new
was detailed in The Arizona Republic by journalist Kathleen Ingley mining claims within a wide safety zone surrounding Grand Canyon.
(April 15, 2012). Of major concern to environmentalists and Canyon This effectively withdraws from development the hundreds of
aficionados is the blatant exploitation of a wild and scenic landscape mining claims on over a million acres in House Rock Valley and other
in a manner that will degrade both these values forever. While no vulnerable tributaries of Grand Canyon, including areas adjacent
one disputes the need for economic opportunity on the Navajo to the Havasupai reservation. The National Mining Association, et
reservation, to provide it at the cost of permanently scarring a sacred al., brought suit against the federal government in the U.S. District
and treasured landscape is unconscionable. Court, District of Arizona, in late February.
Probably the most disturbing element to the entire proposal The Grand Canyon Trust, which led a comprehensive opposition
lies in the fact that there was not any discussion with other tribes, to all uranium mining in the Grand Canyon region, is a good source of
some of whose most sacred sites are in close proximity to the information as developments continue to unfold. The uranium issues
proposed tramway. According to writer Cindy Yurth in The Navajo are complex, but key issues involve the potential for contamination
Times (April 16, 2012) the Hopi have accused “the Navajos of failing of vast watersheds that ultimately affect agriculture and drinking
to consult with them before negotiating with would-be developers water for millions of people in Arizona, Nevada and California. For
at the confluence of the Colorado and Little Colorado rivers, and the more information, please see the Trust’s Uranium Mining Fact SPRINGS OF THE GRAND CANYON REGION.
MAP PRODUCED BY JERI D. LEDBETTER, SPRINGS STEWARDSHIP INSTITUTE, FLAGSTAFF
Hopis say they oppose any development in the area.” Sheet available on the web at: http://www.grandcanyontrust.org/
The National Park Service has weighed in on the side of documents/gc_uranium_factSheet.pdf.
Springs Ecosystems of Grand Canyon
wilderness and preservation. Superintendent Uberuaga has been
quoted as saying, “There would be no development, from our * * * * * * * * *
perspective.”
If the next scenario sounds familiar, it should. Once again Unfortunately, there is nothing new to report on the proposed
Introduction Larry Stevens
Tusayan is in developers’ crosshairs. Tusayan, the small town located River Heritage Museum. The Grand Canyon River Heritage Coalition
just a mile from the south entrance of Grand Canyon, was to be the is working diligently with the Grand Canyon Association in order Tucked in nooks and crannies, seeping from hillsides, or pouring out of cliff faces in joyous eruptions, the springs of Grand Canyon are
location of Canyon Forest Village, which was ultimately rejected to produce a mutually acceptable memorandum of understanding miraculous emergences of water in the desert (Fig. 1). Arizona, vying with Nevada as the nation’s driest state, has the highest density of
several years ago. This new proposal (from Stilo Development Group, that would move the project forward. While GCA and Park personnel springs. But each spring is unique, differing from all others by its unique combination of water quality, temperature, form, slope-aspect, and
the same company that proposed Canyon Forest Village) would have stated repeatedly that they are enthusiastic about the the plant and animal species they support. Springs are some of the most intriguing, biologically and socioculturally diverse ecosystems in
develop private lands around Tusayan, but plans provide no specific project, progress comes only in baby steps. The already completed the Southwest and throughout the world. Grand Canyon’s Vaseys Paradise (Mile 32R; Fig. 2) is an excellent example of a spring with many
insights into how water needs will be addressed for an ambitious architectural plan for the repurposing of the historic Laundry co-occurring elements and processes. This multi-dimensional perspective is important to understanding the complex issues facing Grand
complex of spas, hotels, restaurants, housing and conference centers. Building details a welcoming display space that will provide the Canyon springs, and why their protection is so extraordinarily important.
Water is the key to this expansion given that there is no natural anchor point for a revitalized historic district and Heritage Campus John Wesley Powell (1875:406) named Vaseys Paradise after his colleague George W. Vasey (1822-1893), a botanist who worked at the
surface water on the South Rim of Grand Canyon. Grand Canyon at the south rim of the Grand Canyon. The museum will be a family Smithsonian Institution and greatly improved our understanding of the grasses of the United States. However, Vasey never saw the rushing
Village receives its water from a pipeline that stretches from Roaring friendly exhibit space housing a rotating selection of the Park’s boat outflow and profuse jungle of vegetation that Powell named after him. Robert Brewster Stanton photographed the site from downstream in
Springs on the north side of the Canyon. Tusayan utilizes local wells. collection, historical artifacts, a multimedia theater and dynamic January 1890, and the U.S. Geological Survey photographed it in 1923, as have tens of thousands of river runners since then.
The concern is that additional drilling could adversely impact seeps exhibits. Grand Canyon was virtually the last great unexplored region Springs as Ecosystems the hot springs of Yellowstone National Park, so there is much more
and springs in Grand Canyon due to the suspected interconnectivity of the contiguous 48 states, and this museum will bring its history Springs are places where groundwater emerges at the Earth’s to learn about springs ecosystems. Vaseys Paradise is an intriguing
of aquifers and springs. to life. surface, and part of what makes them so intriguing is that they are springs system because it emerges as a gushet, a springs type, the
groundwater-dependent ecosystems that develop in response to ecosystem characteristics of which have not received much scientific
surface processes. Hydrologists are primarily concerned with the attention. Only some of Vaseys Paradise characteristics and processes
geologic context, aquifer functioning, and geochemical processes have been studied.
that bring water to the surface, while biologists and anthropologists
focus on the surface and near surface characteristics and processes Springs Hydrogeology
that influence biodiversity, population dynamics, human history, Vaseys Paradise emerges in several gushet sources and its
and sociocultural issues. Complex interrelationships among physical diffuse flow across the cliff base and through the vegetation makes
and biological variables make the study of springs dauntingly the measurement of flow rate difficult. Emery Kolb took a now-
interdisciplinary, and require communication among disciplines that famous photograph of E.C. LaRue photographing Vaseys Paradise on
do not normally talk to each other. The few good examples of such the USGS Birdseye Expedition. That 1923 expedition was the first to
studies include those by Odum (1957) on Silver Springs in Florida, try to estimate the springs’ flow, considerably overestimating it at 10
Blinn (e.g., 2008) on Montezuma Well in Arizona, and Brock (1978) on cfs. The photograph shows the flow at that time was about normal
PHOTO BY CHRISTY SCHENCK (cont. p.4)
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numerous springs complexes emerging between Fence Fault (Mile 30) decaying monkeyflower (Mimulus cardinalis) stems, and on non- ambersnail population to increase concomitantly. Planned floods to
and the Eminence Break (Mile 44) are derived from separate, parallel native watercress (Nasturtium officinale). A population at Three Lakes manage sand and sandbars are federal management actions that
fault and fracture systems from the North Rim. Each fracture system northwest of Kanab, Utah feeds on cattails and rushes. remove some of the expanded post-dam Vaseys Paradise vegetation,
supports springs with slightly different water chemistry and thermal The Vaseys Paradise population has an annual life cycle, emerging and kill endangered ambersnails living in the flood zone. Each planned
properties. Oddly, the Fence Fault springs emerging on the left (east) from eggs in August, increasing in size through the growing season. high flow from Glen Canyon Dam since 1996 has required much federal
side of the river are derived from the North Rim, passing underneath Ambersnails go into dormancy for the winter by using mucus to seal compliance, including
the river and emerging on the far side. Huntoon reported that the the aperture of their shells against firm substrata. Unfortunately, the issuance of a U.S.
springs’ flow through the fractures travel for several miles, yet are the snails do not make wise over-wintering site choices, rather Fish and Wildlife Service
highly responsive to seasonal and even daily precipitation events, commonly attaching themselves to fallen leaves that usually blow Biological Opinion to
helping account for the large seasonal differences in Vaseys Paradise away. Consequently, relatively few survive the cold, shaded winters mitigate impacts to this
flow. Its flow and water quality characteristics also occur at the other of Vaseys Paradise. The survivors that emerge usually in April, feed endangered species.
four coldwater springs complexes emanating from the Redwall and grow into June, when they begin their strange, hermaphroditic One result of these
formation on the north side of Grand Canyon, including: Bright Angel, adult life. They mate and lay several gelatinous masses of eggs. political discussions
Roaring Springs, and Ribbon Falls in upper and middle Bright Angel However, do they first function as males when they are too small was the introduction of
Creek; the Shinumo Creek sources; Thunder River and Tapeats Creek to produce many eggs, saving their female personae for July when the Kanab ambersnail
sources; and Deer Creek. they can produce more eggs? More detailed research is needed. The into Royal Arch Creek
PHOTO BY L.E. STEVENS --- VASEYS PARADISE AT MILE 32R ON THE COLORADO RIVER IN GRAND CANYON PHOTO BY L.E. STEVENS ---KANAB AMBERSNAIL SHOWING THE TREMATODE
NATIONAL PARK, ARIZONA. adults die and the eggs hatch in August, starting the snails’ cycle of in the mid-1990s as an PARASITE SPOROCYST EXPRESSING IN ONE OF THE SNAIL EYESTALKS.
(cont. from p. 3) Biological Diversity life over. insurance population.
for late summer (likely less than 2 cfs). Most Grand Canyon springs Many springs support rare and sometimes endemic (unique) Life is hard when one is slow, and as if things aren’t hard enough, That introduced population appears to be persisting.
are smaller than Vaseys Paradise, although the Blue Springs, Havasu species: I estimated that nearly 2 percent of the endangered species Kanab ambersnails are the only native wetland snail species large However, nothing except the construction of Glen Canyon Dam
Springs, Thunder River Springs, Roaring Springs, Bright Angel Springs, in the United States are springs-specialist taxa. Among the endemic enough to support the only known Arizona population of the has really changed life for the Vaseys Paradise population of this
and Ribbon Falls Springs complexes collectively contribute more springs species in Grand Canyon are: MacDougall’s flaveria (Flaveria parasitic flatworm, Leucochloridium cyanocittae. Flatworm eggs that landsnail. It remains a rare species in Arizona, one whose population
than 300 cfs to the mainstream Colorado River, which is more than 20 macdougalii) at mineral springs from Mile 136.5L downstream to are dropped in bird faeces onto springs vegetation are consumed was expanded by Colorado River flow regulation, and one that will
percent of the historic baseflow of the river - a far larger contribution about Mile 177L; the masked clubskimmer dragonfly (Brechmorhoga by a snail. The parasite develops in the snail’s gut cavity, eventually likely continue to live out its odd, hermaphroditic, parasite-afflicted
to the river than previously has been appreciated. pertinax), which occurs only in the outflow of small, warmwater occupying more than half the volume of the snail. This myricidium life cycle in the profuse growth of monkeyflower, watercress, and
Springs flow is largely derived from precipitation and infiltration springs from Nankoweap Creek downstream to Stone Creek; the stage of the parasite produces lozenge-like sporocysts - acid pink poison ivy of Vaseys Paradise, as it likely has for millenia.
from the surface. Nearly 90 percent of the precipitation that falls Arizona wetsalts tiger beetle (Cicindela hemorrhagica arizonae), and green capsules filled with metacercariae, the cyst-like next
on the Colorado Plateau evaporates, a few percent runs off, and a whose range matches that of the masked clubskimmer; an as-yet- life stage of the parasite. The parasite drives its host to the edge of Dire Threats to Springs
little is transpired by vegetation, leaving only a few percent to pass undescribed Pyrgulopsis springsnail; and a possibly new-to-science the vegetation patch and very conspicuously pulses the green and Grand Canyon Wildlands Council (2002) reported that many
into the Earth’s surface to recharge aquifers. The region’s aquifers giant waterbug (Belostoma near flumineum), to name a few. Many pink sporocysts in and out of the snail’s eyestalks. A bird, attracted Grand Canyon National Park springs were essentially in pristine
include shallow Cenozoic basalt flows, the progressively deeper rare but non-endemic aquatic and wetland species also are found to the rapidly pulsing, brightly-colored eyestalks picks at the snail, ecological condition, and better protected from human impacts
Kaibab, Coconino, and Redwall formations, as well as the deeper, at Grand Canyon springs. For example, although the protection of stimulating the sporocysts to eject out of the eyestalks and wriggle than other regional land management units. However, most springs
uprising groundwater from faulted basement rocks studied by Laurie poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii) is not a conservation priority, it around on the ground. Mistaking the sporocysts for worms, the bird on the flatlands of the southern Colorado Plateau are affected
Crossey, Karl Karlstrom and their colleagues (2006). The upper aquifers is a rare species in the Colorado River corridor in Grand Canyon, with consumes them and the parasite’s life cycle is completed in the bird’s by human activities. Livestock management and flow regulation
generally consist of fractured rock strata underlain by impermeable only three populations (likely single individuals), each found only at gut. Unfortunately the now-blind snail can continue to produce impacts are nearly ubiquitous on springs throughout the West. These
shale or mudstone strata, with springs emerging from within, or at the a riverside spring: Vaseys Paradise, Lower Deer Creek Spring (136R), sporocysts. About 10 percent of the Kanab ambersnail population undisturbed springs in Grand Canyon are remarkable laboratories at
base of the water-bearing stratum (Fig. 1). and 142R Spring. Vaseys Paradise also supports a population of water at Vaseys Paradise is infected with Leucochloridium, so this rare which to understand natural ecological processes. Most or all of the
The geochemistry of a spring’s water reflects the complexity of smartweed (Persicaria amphibium), one of very few along the river. snail supports an even more rare and bizarre parasite. Although springs in this arid region stand to be negatively influenced by global
its flow path, the subterranean course from the point of infiltration Springs like Leopard Frog Marsh at Mile 9L host several rare plants far more rare than the ambersnail, the parasite does not qualify for climate changes that reduce precipitation, increase evaporation,
to the spring’s source. Springs that emerge from upper elevation (American bugleweed – Lycopersicum americanum, rice cutgrass- endangered species status. Nonetheless, its presence demonstrates reduce infiltration, or increase climate variability. But the most dire
basalt and limestone aquifers tend to have cool, high quality (low ion Leersia oryzoides), as well as a population of Niobrara ambersnail the level of ecological complexity that can develop at springs. human impacts to springs involve unsustainable groundwater
concentration) waters; whereas, those emerging from progressively (Oxyloma haydeni haydeni), and a now-extirpated population of Another threat to the Kanab ambersnail is an as-yet-unpublished extraction and groundwater pollution. The possibility of greatly
deeper strata tend to have greater ion enrichment. Continuing northern leopard frog (Rana pipiens). At a larger scale, Rich Bailowitz, report that genetic analyses do not support the taxonomic legitimacy expanded urban development and possible groundwater pumping
infiltration of surface water along the flow path, downward movement John Polhemus, and I (2008, 2009) reported 17 and 53 percent of the of the snail. Kanab ambersnail may soon be subsumed into the much at Tusayan and elsewhere may threaten springs emerging from the
of groundwater through overlying aquifers, and upward movement dragonflies and aquatic waterbugs, respectively, in the Grand Canyon more widespread Niobrara ambersnail, a change that eventually South Rim, as well as Blue and Havasu springs. Uranium mining may
of deep crustal waters all contribute to the quality of a spring’s flow. region were found at 3 or fewer of more than 500 sites sampled, sites will greatly reduce the Vaseys Paradise population’s importance contribute to groundwater and surface water pollution.
Snowmelt on the North Rim passes relatively quickly into the Redwall that were primarily springs. to federal managers, as it would lose its status as an endangered Ecological threats to springs are universal, and the failure to pay
formation, and flows out along fault and fracture alignments. The Data compiled by Earle Spamer and Arthur Bogan (1993) reveal species. attention to springs has resulted in a global crisis for these “point
flowpath duration for Vaseys Paradise is days to decades; whereas, that Thunder River Springs has the highest concentration of landsnails sources of bio-cultural diversity.” Even though Vaseys Paradise
that of some of the Redwall aquifer springs emerging on the Tonto (12 species) of any point inside Grand Canyon. Most of these are lovely Ambersnail Habitat Stewardship emerges in Grand Canyon, its care requires protection of the entire
Platform in central Grand Canyon is several thousand years (Monroe et but very tiny species. With 8 species, Vaseys Paradise is not far behind Ambersnail habitat at Vasey’s Paradise is larger now than it was in aquifer on U.S. Forest Service land on the North Rim. Even though
al. 2005). Elsewhere in the West, springs’ flowpaths may exceed 10,000 Thunder River. By far the best known of these landsnail species is the predam time. Flow regulation by Glen Canyon Dam has increased the many springs in the region have been strongly negatively influenced
years, and in Australia’s Great Artesian Basin, a million years. endangered Kanab ambersnail (Oxyloma haydeni kanabensis; Fig. vegetated area of Vaseys Paradise by approximately 40 percent since by post-emergence flow and land manipulation, springs can be
Huntoon (1981) described the geochemistry and derivation of 3). Discovered there by Dean Blinn’s aquatic ecology crew in 1990, 1963. Pre-dam photographs of the spring show that the vegetation restored relatively easily, provided the aquifer has not been strongly
flow at Vaseys Paradise and other Marble Canyon springs in relation Vaseys Pardise supports one of only three known populations of this required by the snail was trimmed by annual floods to above the affected. Grand Canyon Wildlands, working with the Bureau of Land
to surrounding bedrock geology and geologic structure of the North taxon. Mature ambersnails reach a length of about ¾ inch, and it is 80,000 cfs stage. Increased post-dam habitat likely has allowed the Management, has rehabilitated the Pakoon Springs complex in upper
Rim. His hydrogeological explorations of the region revealed that the an obligate wetland species. The Vaseys Paradise population lives on (cont. p.6)
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(cont. from p. 5)
Grand Wash, transforming the former cattle and ostrich ranch to one of
the most impressive stands of wetland habitat in Arizona. Protection of
springs flow everywhere requires clear information on the distribution
On the Backs of Mules and from the Rivers of Images:
and ecological condition of springs, and strong partnerships among The Amazing Ellsworth and Emery Kolb of Grand Canyon
land and water managing agencies. We all hope that such partnerships
are forged and work to improve stewardship of springs in this region and
By C.V. Abyssus
throughout the world. The Kolb Brothers, Ellsworth and Emery, Though you will undoubtedly want to Superintendent Dave Uberuaga and Deputy
arrived at the Grand Canyon 110 years ago, see the entire layout with artifacts, including Superintendent Barclay Trimble were both on
References Cited began taking photographs of mule trips the canoe that contained “the bones in hand at the opening and hosted a luncheon
Blinn, D.W. 2008. The extreme environment, trophic structure, and ecosystem
dynamics of a large, fishless desert spring: Montezuma Well, Arizona. Pp.
and canyon scenery soon thereafter, built a the boathouse,” until that time you may for the family.
98-126 in Stevens, L.E. and V.J. Meretsky, editors. Aridland Springs of North studio and home on the brink of the canyon, see the exhibit panels online through the On January 5th, the Kolb family treated
America: Ecology and Conservation. University of Arizona Press, Tucson. and embarked on their “Big Trip” on the Grand Canyon Association’s website: http:// many of the GCNP rangers, interpreters,
Brock, T.D. 1978. Thermophilic microorganism and life at high temperatures. river through the canyons of the Green and grandcanyon.org/kolb/currentexhibit.asp. GCA staff, and other appreciative attendees
Springer-Verlag, New York. Colorado Rivers, taking the first motion Also online are over 10,000 photographic to a get-together to share reminiscences
Crossey, L.J., T.P. Fischer, P.J. Patchett, K.E. Karlstrom, D.R. Hilton, D.L. Newell, P.
pictures of the canyons and fastwater that images at Northern Arizona University Cline of living at and visiting the Grand Canyon
Huntoon, A.C. Reynolds, and G.A.M. de Leeuw. 2006. Dissected hydrologic
system at the Grand Canyon: Interaction between deeply derived fluids they ran in sixteen-foot wooden boats. Library’s Colorado Plateau Archives: http:// and to answer questions. At first Smokey’s
and plateau aquifer waters in modern springs and travertine. Geology On the centennial anniversary of the archive.library.nau.edu/. grandmother Blanche, Emery’s wife, received
34:25–28. “Big Trip,” coinciding with that of Arizona An experiential highlight of the exhibit only brief mention. I finally asked about her:
Huntoon, P.W. 1981. Fault controlled ground-water circulation under the Colorado statehood, it seems only appropriate that took place on January 4th, when the Smokey lowered his head a bit, somewhat
River, Marble Canyon, Arizona. Ground Water 19:20-27.
Grand Canyon National Park and the Grand Kolb family attended the grand opening overcome with emotion, and softly said
Monroe, S. A., R. C. Antweiler, R. J. Hart, H. E. Taylor, M. Truini, J. R. Rihs, and T. J. Felger.
2005. Chemical characteristics of ground-water discharge along the South
Canyon Association help to celebrate their reception. Emery Kolb’s grandson, Emery “she was a wonderful woman.” With a little
Rim of Grand Canyon in Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona, 2000--2001. adventurous story with the first-ever exhibit (Sonny as a lad and Smokey in later years) further prompting by others’ questions,
U.S. Geological Survey Scientific Investigations Report 2004-5146. devoted entirely to Ellsworth and Emery and Lehnert, son of Carl and Edith Kolb Lehnert, Emery, Ruth, and Jennifer opened up with
Odum, H. T. 1957. Trophic structure and productivity of Silver Springs, Florida. their family. It opened in December 2011 and his wife Ruth, their daughter Jennifer Draper, some wonderful stories of Blanche, obviously
Ecological Monographs 27: 55--112. is planned to be semi-permanent. It will run and her daughter Kerstin Feldhaus, along a dear person to their lives and memories
Powell, J.W. 1875. The Canons of the Colorado. Scribner’s Monthly 9(4):394-409.
until September 2012, returning in December with Emery and Ellsworth’s youngest brother who holds a cherished place in their hearts.
Spamer, E.E. and A.E. Bogan. 1993. Mollusca of the Grand Canyon and Vicinity,
Arizona: New and revised data on diversity and distributions, with notes 2012 for another nine months. Ernest’s grandson Steve and his wife Susana, I always thought that it was lucky that Emery
on Pleistocene-Holocene mollusks of the Grand Canyon. Proceedings of As their story is remarkable and there attended the gathering. Emery and Ruth had won the coin toss with Ellsworth in 1924,
the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia 144:21-68. is a wealth of information about them, not been back since after his grandfather as “Ed’s” wanderlust would probably have
Stevens, L.E. and R.A. Bailowitz. 2009. Odonata biogeography in the Grand Canyon they are very deserving of a full-length Emery died December 11, 1976, at almost doomed the Kolb Brothers’ business, while
ecoregion, southwestern U.S.A. Annals of the Entomological Society of
biography. Many are the stories, sometimes 96 years of age, the oldest resident at Grand Emery’s perseverance worked towards
America 102:261-274.
Stevens, L.E. and V.J. Meretsky, editors. Aridland Springs in North America: Ecology
approaching legendary myth, and as I wrote Canyon. Smokey stated that there was success. Jennifer countered with the fact
and Conservation. University of Arizona Press, Tucson. the exhibit text, I approached them as new nothing to come back for: his grandparents that Blanche really ran the business, that it
Stevens, L.E. and J.T. Polhemus. 2008. Biogeography of aquatic and semi-aquatic information and attempted to verify their were gone, the house was empty, and the was her hard work and business acumen that
Heteroptera in the Grand Canyon ecoregion, southwestern USA. truthfulness. You may be surprised, as was Park Service owned the house and closed was the real cause.
Monographs of the Western North American Naturalist 4:38-76. I, of certain “facts,” among others: why was it. For many years, Emery and Ellsworth After all these years, there is finally an
Ellsworth called “Ed” when he had a brother Kolb had some ongoing acrimony with the exhibit dedicated solely to the Kolb Brothers,
Larry Stevens is the Curator, Biology Department, Museum of Northern Arizona, 3101 N. JIM MACKENZIE’S FOSSIL FIND, 2010
named Edward?; Emery gave Ellsworth Forest Service and the National Park Service their lives, business, and family. It will be in
Ft. Valley Rd., Flagstaff, AZ 86001
credit for naming Cheyava Falls based on a concerning their business ventures. Kolb fan the Kolb Studio through September 4, and
Hopi word meaning intermittent, but does Brad Dimock explained: “It’s an interesting installed again in December. But please
it?; and can “carved in stone” really mean thing to see the Kolb family and the Park don’t put it off – you owe it to yourselves, and
“unchangeable” when referring to the dates Service on amicable terms. There used to be the Kolbs, to view it, learn from it, and enjoy
on Ellsworth’s and Edith’s headstones in the a three-way battle between the Kolbs, the it.
Grand Canyon Pioneer Cemetery?* Park Service, and the Fred Harvey Company,
Though the Kolb Brothers built their Grand and it was vicious….So, it’s cool to see the * Ellsworth had a Chinese cook who had
Canyon business on the backs of mules and Kolb family come back as special guests to trouble pronouncing his name, so “Ed” it
received their reputation from their rivers of the park.” The family was so appreciative was. There is no Hopi word starting with Ch,
photographic images, the exhibit is much of the efforts that the Grand Canyon or even C, or many other letters; Cheyava
more than that, with topics covering the Association took to stabilize and restore the may be based on some Hopi, or perhaps
family and the community, other boating house and studio and of the concern and other language, word that has a beginning
and Grand Canyon experiences, the “Grand support Grand Canyon National Park has sound similar to Ch. Ellsworth’s birth date
Canyon Film Show,” lectures and publications, taken for the building and the history of the is December 27, 1876, not January 4. Edith’s
the history of the studio cascading down Kolb Brothers. Emery and Blanche’s daughter year of death is actually 1978, not 1979.
over the edge and its renovation, and where Edith eloped to Mexico to marry Park Service
to find more information about Ellsworth employee Carl Lehnert; their son Smokey
and Emery. also was a long-time Park Service employee.
“ENGLEMEN PRICKLY-PEAR” © MARI CARLOS 2010 “RAVEN” © MARI CARLOS 2010
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li ghth e ar te fu l m oo nl e ss canyon ni w as d is ru pted by a lo T he g re
at food mornin
g a
olorado
and Lit
a e beauti gh t he re nd afte
r one of thos the quiet ni campsite. T T he wh . rnoon. tle Colo
settled in fo ve re d in cl ouds. Well, si d e of ou r Re search itewate rado.
was co e r, a n d th
a
it
oked like it on the oppos stillne ss. T he w a e rever
night sk y lo f of th e talus slope retu rn e d to perfect ter figh
ts with s e c u rr
b
of t ents in
ble of rock s quickly the
nigh T he roc b a ilin g bu deep a r
obvious tum rive r then just as ran ged it
k forma
tions, t c k e ts and ea s.
m
as th e sp la sh into th e
’t k no w h ow he had ar T he ruin
s of anc h e c a ve s, and fe ll o w r aft
w on
at I really d T he fac ient ca variet y e rs on
hot aft
tell Luck y th
o
to e s a nd nyon dw of geolo e rn o o n
akfa st I h ad o t he r sh a e ll e r s a n d e xp g y. s.
ornin g at bre e rock fall. T he fu
B
pe s in c
T he next m tw o points for th ip
n people lo uds a nd
lo r e r s .
h im my ninth tr in the g
att l e s
d spirit t
had to awar lead crew on hey set roups, t rock s.
but surely I rh e w ou ld b e
is incr ible
e d f o r he guid
f
T he b a th e g r o e s a nd
w ad ve nt ure s and late e ot h e r co rners of th lance o up. their in
ne wledge f exerc tere stin
f
many in g m
ly did show me d ifficult y show re spect , kno so s p ec
ial. is e , r e st, refl g histor
i
Luck y ac tu al h e h ad no ery g uid e ’s s ie s, and
t rock falls ure s and ev e more trip I he a r ection, th e
e had no nigh t new advent years to mak fo od, lear
l
that lot
and while w taken h as b ro u gh
er th e ne x t fe w
. s of wa nin g, a
ry trip I ’ve continue ov that I ’ve had I hop e ter ha s w a lk with
C
Canyon. Eve m ar k ab le . I hope to e s an d th e memorie s those w
ho do g been le
t loose
God, all
make tim
is re me experie
nc
the Canyon et to ru to e in the
B a ro n B
r
and love of so th e y ca n have the sa From o
n th e c
anyon h
e fill L a k e Me ad canyon
ndchildren n e wh o a ve w o n , it wou
with my gra ha s had d erful tim ld be a fu
n year
many m e s. to do th
e mora b e trip.
le time
s in the
canyon,
both on
the rive
r a nd o
ff.
I kn e
wIw
o u ld l .
s u rp r ove t o ld m e
is e d m he s p yler, t
ectac med T
e
e wa s
routi how I ula r s de, n a
ne an
d th e ca me ce n e r
h at o n e g ui
g
y. Wh
pa st,
I ’ve a deligh
t
to ch
e r i s at is a s tor y t
r
o h
But I l w a ys b f s le e p in o u r n ig
h t m e mor y this: rth.
felt s e e n too g o u t in t ly ca m My b e s
n g like the ea
e
h i a m re .
the r
iver I
afe a
n d pe a
n e r vo
u s to c
th e o
p e n . In
p in g
o e s so m e t
n g s will r o
f o r ple a s u
g i t
b
It e e
wa s g c e f ul a s a m p with t h e g e nt b e pl a n
the n
e w ro ettin I la y out a s, intelli d v isit th E OF
g to k down a r n E T IM
a
u tine o t e n t o f ye e us, a : H
fallin now. I o n my . l i o n s t lik u id e K S T
g a sle f tu r ca me cot b In mil omew
ha s his g E MA
R
L
Milk y e p to th
n in g i
n early t o l o ok fo
e side
w ill be s n, a p u p a sk r o c k ?” H A T L IN
y T
Way e ru s a s th r w a rd T he Canyo i n th e ROUS
!
K i n t h of t e b at to Gra nd ck line AN GE
t
RIST Y S
C H EN C su n c h e m h e w s e m n t h e t b l a a n ic : D D
BY C H re e p iddle aters
, e rg ed I is tha ull of
p
IV E A
N
P H OT O s o f g , wh a t ers, f OACT
n
l o wl y th e n a zin g u
a ch
“Hey,
M -- throu
PSTRE A
gh th down ight, p at t a n s w R A D I
K ING U th e c w a ki n ide , IT ’S
he he g u
O
O N , LO e
e
w l THAT
rnia
E C ANY ca m a a rm s iffs, a g t o An d t re .
T R AV E R
TIN
rader a nd t
o b re
nd p a
d din g
watch
the T O U C H
t o a dd m o
c
ie not ’T I h av e
rapid only i akfa s b a r ef “ DO N e, but n gs,
s a nd n t. T o o T Y! ” m nt b ei on .
Au e rb
I
Vi n
shari he re t N o
routi th e b
e a ut y n g th
e exc wa s g HUM A
w a s t o l d t
i n t e lli g e
u t a n y re a s
ne to r t e o
e e, a s i l y we r s with
al if o
of iteme a t
gethe th e c
s ther e y tr u abitat pen . it.”
grate
ful fo r with
a
anyon
b u
nt of
th e o r y e n d
t h e r t h
liv i n g h
d l et it hap i n g from
r g r t i s t h e e i r a n ny t h
spend t h e si m o u p o f
n liv i n g T he kn ow
w
a n d th g re e d
y n ed a
in g a
we ek
ple th
in g s i
s tr a n g
e rs. I
this s
im ple W e do not o s y stems w e r e too n e v e r le a r
“ c
in thi n life t l ef t
uide s
ays: d th e i
re y they to hav
e
e rs s a
ena, C
s pl a c
e.
a nd f
o r th
me
T he g d e s troye t, o t h t h e y se e m
y n
e priv se the accide s, but
ilege beca u a bi g cident
Su s a n
of w a s ip l e a c
say it f mult
Some v id e n ce o
is e
T he re
Pa s a d
PHOTO©MARI CARLOS
-8- -9-
It was funny watching it evolve. The They called it then “the beach bill.” publication care? Because right here, in the
The Best Idea by Lew Steiger
first big meeting Kenton went to as the new
President of the new organization, he stood
up in a roomful of engineers, scientists,
When Tom took on the Presidency of
Grand Canyon River Guides (about 7 years
after that campfire epiphany) he didn’t flap
hearts and hands (and voices) of the average
commercial river runner in Grand Canyon,
is where the last best hope for the Grand
Our National Parks are a truly great in 20 years’ time we’ll have lost so much it lawyers and bureaucrats. He said a lot of his arms and shout from the rooftops that Canyon always has been and always will be.
concept when you think about it. I never probably won’t matter after that. We won’t really good stuff about the river at the time we now had to have this thing, he simply Grand Canyon River Guides never did have
did much, despite growing up right here (as have anywhere to camp and the riparian and no one paid him any mind at all. He projected his innate optimism outward to (and never will have) any real political clout at
a professional boatman) in one of the best zone will just be rocks. had long hair and a beard. He looked like Ed everyone he encountered. He encouraged… all. We have some good ideas every now and
National Parks ever. What came to mind It was work to even think about Dam Abbey’s Hayduke from “The Monkey Wrench everyone he met, really, to just do the things again, and we see what is really happening
on those rare occasions for me was Teddy Operations yet again, especially since the Gang.” Next meeting, a couple weeks later, they personally did best and to do the right on the river, but our power, all along, has
Roosevelt sitting around a campfire with a issues at hand have been in play—and the Kenton got up there again and said exactly thing for the Grand Canyon too. He went to always stemmed solely from the fact that
bunch of cronies in 19th century Yellowstone competing interests of water, power, and the same things he’d said before. Suddenly Washington, D.C. with that same attitude we were able to hold our customers captive
under a vast and starry sky, dreaming the long term care of the Canyon have often people were falling all over themselves when the time came, and, lo and behold, long enough to convince them to write or
whole thing up more or less all at once, as been at odds with each other—ever since taking note of his wisdom and experience. California Congressman George Miller (with call their congressmen and senators about
the low flames softly danced and crackled Glen Canyon Dam was finished in 1963. But I Kenton was clean-shaven and had gotten a a lot of help from his aide Steve Lanich) and the Grand Canyon. The initial attention to
and the horses stirred contentedly in the was proud of the joint statement submitted KENTON GRUA PHOTO COURTESY OF MICHELLE GRUA buzz-cut. (He was pretty handsome without Massachusetts Senator Bill Bradley (ditto Glen Canyon Dam and the entire decade-
background. John Muir, out in California, by GCRRA, GCRG (Grand Canyon River all that hair.) That little subterfuge worked from Bradley’s aide Dan Beard) wrote and long process that led ultimately to the Grand
did, with Hatch Expeditions up in Utah at
entered into it too somehow, but how it all Guides) and other organizations; and I was for a while but Kenton had an intensity he sponsored a bill that was passed into law, Canyon Protection Act 20 years ago came
age 14 (on which a boatman named Shorty
tied together was a little fuzzy. really proud of the more detailed response couldn’t disguise and finally he realized it which became known as the Grand Canyon about directly because of (and only because
Burton taught Kenton how to bake biscuits
The PBS documentary series by Ken by GCRG alone, wherein they contrasted the was working against the things he really Protection Act. of) the cards and letters and phone calls of
in a dutch oven). Kenton motored for Hatch,
Burns “The National Parks—America’s Best mission statement of the proposed new EIS wanted to get done. The great gift that Tom Moody gave concerned constituents all across America.
then Grand Canyon Expeditions, before he
Idea” (and particularly the companion book with the actual language of the 1992 Grand Tom Moody was there (2 or 3 years into to the Grand Canyon, and to everybody The defense of the Grand Canyon Protection
switched over to rowing plywood dories for
to it) was a huge eye-opener. Canyon Protection Act. Long story there, but the life of the organization) the night Kenton involved in a personal sense was—he came Act, and the Canyon itself, in the months and
Martin Litton. Unlike any other boatman
In a nutshell the saga that unfolds there the short version is: the new statement of announced to the GCRG board of directors back in order to do this thing. He had grown years ahead will too.
I’ve ever known, Kenton knew for a fact that
is one in which the National Park system purpose A.) waters down the specific intent that it was time for him to step down as up in the Grand Canyon, been a boatman, It won’t take much on your part. If your
being a river guide in Grand Canyon was his
we know and appreciate today has been of the Grand Canyon Protection Act and B.) President if only we could find the right later became an outfitter of sorts, then river trip(s) gave you something, all you have
life’s work—hook line and sinker, until the
brought about through a never-ending series slips in a couple of friendly references to the replacement who would actually consent to moved on to other things: flying, commercial to do to reciprocate is write a letter saying so
day he died. He drew everybody together
of, basically, pitched battles fought over the economics of hydropower where before, doing it. Tom thought he might be able to fishing in Alaska, international boating, to your legislators and to the NPS. It could
through sheer force of will, coupled with his
ages by a host of dedicated individuals who markedly and deliberately, no such words engineering, family most of all. But he took a probably be the same letter sent to all of
egalitarian background, and seasoned by
fell in love personally with these places one existed. No surprise there—hydropower huge time-out personally and came back for them. Just tell them you’ve been there and
the community’s grudging respect for things
by one and gave of themselves—sometimes is where the money is, and the lawyers and several years for the sole purpose of giving it mattered to you personally. You care and
he’d done earlier: the world speed record
to astonishing degrees—to see each park other experts representing those interests something back to the Grand Canyon after you want them to do the right thing for the
through the Canyon (in a dory in 1983 on
protected and set aside… for all mankind, get paid hundreds of dollars an hour to be all that it had given to him. He didn’t do it Canyon. You’re watching them.
72,000 cfs) and an incredible hike he’d made
yes—but also for the sake of each place there at the workgroups and at every single all alone, by any means. There were lots of If you really delve into the “The National
before that, all the way through the Canyon,
itself. John Muir, who entered the story as step of the way throughout the process. people and other organizations involved Parks…” and the history told there, you will
from Lee’s Ferry to the Grand Wash Cliffs.
a logger in Yosemite, was a key figure, but They don’t dislike the Canyon, but human in a huge effort put forth by a great many see that same theme repeated, time and
The other thing that drew everybody
the list of real heroes involved with the Parks nature is what it is. people. But Tom was, if you will, a spiritual again all across America.
together was the need. Those who had really
in general is a long one, including wealthy The fun part for me in having to think leader in the thing.
known the Canyon well since the time of the
and extremely successful businessmen like about all that stuff yet again is it reminded How has it gone in the 20 years since This will be Lew’s 40th year working in Grand Canyon.
dam (boatmen who worked down there
Stephen Mather, who teamed up with a me of two genuine heroes I was privileged the Act was passed? We, meaning all He’ll run trips, proudly and gratefully, for Grand Canyon
regularly) were stunned by the changes we
Berkeley lawyer, Horace Albright, in 1914 to to know who really made a mark in Grand involved (and particularly the Bureau of Expeditions, OARS/Dories, and Arizona River Runners.
saw in just 20 or 30 years. The beaches were Tom Moody was a boatman on Lew’s first trip ever.
really get the thing off the ground; and many, Canyon, each in their own way, before they Reclamation), have tried really hard to do
leaving. Meanwhile the dam itself, along
many others. died. Kenton Grua and Tom Moody each had the right thing and take care of the Canyon.
with the politics of water and the economics TOM MOODY PHOTO COURTESY OF LEW STIEGER
This rumination here ends up, I promise, the help of a gazillion others with the great Thanks to good science and a humongous
of hydropower, had combined to encourage
directly in the wheelhouse of anyone who things they did for Grand Canyon, but by do it and everyone else knew, instantly, that effort over the years, the beach-building
the worst possible flow regime for the long
cares enough to be a member of the Grand and large they were the only ones alive who he’d be perfect. And he was, too. flows we count on for sand down there
term health of those beaches. Kenton’s
Canyon River Runners Association, or to could have done the things they did when Tom had a perennially sunny disposition have gotten exponentially better. But often
premise for Grand Canyon River Guides
read this publication. But it started for they did them. and a non-judgmental temperament along the politics of water, which supersede all
was that those who lived on the river and
me a couple months ago, as the deadline Grand Canyon River Guides will be 25 with the native intelligence and the training else, have undermined those efforts (see:
knew it best needed to stand up for it and
approached for comments on the upcoming years old next year. It was started by Kenton (he was studying to be a civil engineer) that beach erosion in 2011). The native fishes and
be a voice at the tables where management
Glen Canyon Dam Long-Term Experimental Grua in the dawning months of 1988 and lent themselves perfectly to the task at hand. endangered species are hanging in there for
actions that affected it were considered. His
and Management Plan EIS (LTEMP). nobody else but Kenton could’ve ever got it He also had a vision. It had come to him years the moment, but that stuff is complicated.
two great gifts to the river we know today
A stakeholder work group meets going in the first place (or even wanted to). before, sitting around a campfire at night on Archaeology seems to have gone well, but
were starting that organization in the first
regularly to keep tabs on Dam Operations Getting a bunch of river guides together on a winter Grand Canyon trip with a group of that depends on who you talk to. In short, as
place and then about 3 years later realizing
and to help make the big decisions thereof; anything has always been like herding cats. college girls from Middlebury, Vermont, on with our democracy as a whole, we have won
(before anyone else did) that it was time for
and this new EIS, led jointly by the NPS and Kenton was a little guy, but he had a fierce a field seminar taught by a sedimentologist a few and lost a few too. The forces affecting
him to step down as President and give that
the Bureau of Reclamation, will determine intensity that bordered on the maniacal. named Jack Schmidt. What the Canyon these things are relentless.
job over to someone who could take it to
the fate of the river and its riparian zone He knew he was going to be a boatman needed, they decided after scratching their Where does the GCRRA enter into
another level.
for the next 20 years. If we get it wrong, for life after the very first river trip he ever heads over the fate of the beaches, was a law. all this? Why should anyone reading this
- 10 - - 11 -
LEW STEIGER PHOTO COURTESY OF ALAN GILBERG
Too Much Sun by Chelsea Taylor
The greatest man I have and possibly ever will work for tossed me of Gloeckler’s mouth, knocked me right on my nose, and changed my over the winter, tend to turn the Grand Canyon into a clinical,
one of the most enlightening nuggets of wisdom as pertains to view of the Grand Canyon and humanity within it forever. Well, not chewable, fragmented case study. A few years down the road in
human vanities I might ever get: “From birth until mid-twenties, you forever. That’s the point I would like to make. the realm I now occupy, the Grand Canyon evolves into a cohesive
care desperately about what everyone thinks of you. From your mid- What hooked me on my first trip through the Grand Canyon was idea more so than a collection of facts. Even further down, say
twenties until fifties you desperately don’t care what anyone thinks not the beauty—there’s too much to untangle the first few days of a a couple decades, the Grand Canyon turns fickle lover. A female
trip before you develop an eye for it—nor the geologic implications lover for that matter, since the majority of those boatmen tend
of the fluidity of space, time and matter. A nineteen- year old girl to be men. And once you get into triple and quadruple decades
from Los Angeles couldn’t possibly comprehend that, nor the thrill of like one of my favorite people to row with, veteran boatman and
the rapids—terrifying! What reeled me in was the unavoidable heat, story teller extraordinaire Jimmy Hendrick, everything is just
and the ungrudging acceptance of it the group adopted. I had never funny. I like this progression.
spent much time out of temperature-controlled climates, and giving It seems that our continual proximity to the notion of
in to such obvious discomfort without complaining about it was a the Grand Canyon’s seeming infiniteness coupled with our
new and freeing philosophy. After all, we were all experiencing the developing awareness of our own mortality warps the brain
same thing. Taking my boatman’s lead, I decided to not take the 120 a little. At first, like children, we want to understand it all, and
degree offense personally, and started sliding down a slippery rabbit right away. It is very important that everyone we know knows
hole into a new world where I was no longer the center, axis, and how much we know. As we relax a little and escape just enough
jeweled possession. carnage to finally be able to sleep through the night, we start
I won’t go into the beauty of the Grand Canyon because many to take ourselves out of the equation and live through the
have explained it with more color and eloquence than I could ever enjoyment and discoveries our passengers reap for their first
hope to express. But I will say this, and mean it: the Grand Canyon is times, while relishing the fact that the canyon is so much greater
BIG. Big place, big weather, big geology, big time. Staggeringly big. than all of us. Then, as we live through more and more carnage,
Stephen Hawking big. Incomprehensively big, which is why I think it seeing good friends and role models drop off but somehow luck
will always draw scientists and artists alike who must comprehend out enough to stay in the game ourselves, we start morphing
it. Dinosaurs weren’t even a glimmer in evolution’s eye when the the canyon into a goddess-like entity/consort that will continue
youngest layer within the canyon, the Kaibab Formation, was to allow us through if only we can keep saying the right words
hardened. The canyon itself was formed twice again as long ago as and refrain from hubris. “She loves us in Her way.” How generous
the first homo sapiens appeared. I’ve heard it speculated that it took of Her. The fortunate few, whose dedication to the place outlives
roughly 4,000 years to form each inch in the towering 500 foot cliffs most men’s dedication to their wives, have a common Buddha-
of the Redwall Limestone. Come on—that’s fourth dimension Big. like sense of humor, and quite a healthy dose of crazy to boot. An
More importantly though, maybe more so than it is big, we are just acceptance of impending death, because statistically speaking,
so so so small. It’s only big because we say so, and who are we? they should have been dead long ago.
As I rack up more years as a guide for Arizona River Runners Finally, “Nature wasn’t thinking about you in the first place.”
and Grand Canyon White Water, I am finally starting to understand All just thoughts from a still-novice city girl turned river guide
what 250,000,000 years, the age of the youngest layer in the Grand with too much time during the off season to overanalyze people
ELVES CHASM @ CHELSEA TAYLOR Canyon, means. It means that evolution’s greatest trick on the human who deserve more from her. There really might be something
of you. From fifties on, you realize no one was thinking of you in the race was to bestow us with a notion that we are significant in the to it though—maybe obscene amounts of time spent in the
first place.” If I was feeling slightly more sentimental, I would tell you grand scheme of things. Heat, Lava Falls rapid, 18 foot Avons, good Grand Canyon could be just what our society needs to pull our
he bestowed to me that adage on my birthday at Fat City Camp after bosses, Los Angeles, ALL fleeting. Not that they are not important collective head out of our collective arse and stop taking this life
I had scraped over the cheese grater rock and almost lost the only and very real in my own little “desperately don’t care what anyone so seriously. We will all be dust before “She” even notices we’ve
passenger that had been brave enough to ride with me in the worst thinks” space-time continuum. I won’t be presumptuous enough to been here, after all. Or maybe we’re just getting too much sun
run through Lava Falls rapid I hope (against hope) to ever have. We imply that I more so than any other human have transcended my down there.
sat together on my boat listening to Erica and Walt belt out Fire on biological and hormonal make-up to an enlightened, unaffected
the Mountain upstairs, me on the verge of trying not to blubber in plan such as that. But I do think that spending copious amounts In 2002 I discovered the Grand Canyon as a passenger with my mom on a 13
front of Bill Gloeckler and, thereby, give away the fast apparent FACT of time in the canyon tweaks one’s perception processes. (“Which day row trip, and spent the next five years elbowing my way— WFR, CPR, and
Back Country Food Handler’s license in hand—back into the most majestic
that I was not cut out for this. Truth be told, the only thing he said canyon?” one of my close friends always asks ironically, implying that
ditch in the world. Since 2008, I have been blessed with the best job a city girl
to me on my 18 foot Avon that night was, “What the hell happened Grand Canyon guides suffer from an elitism similar to San Francisco’s could dream for herself. I hope to spend the rest of my life learning more about
at Lava today?” I explained, he exited, and I sniffled myself to sleep “the City” locals). A general though not completely universal pattern the canyon, and sharing our little world with people just as excited about it as
wondering if my old bartending boss in San Francisco would hire me has appeared to me as I’ve befriended and slyly studied the guides I we are.
back on short notice. have been privileged enough to spend arguably too much time and
It was the next day, celebrating the warm weather in October and too little sleep with.
enjoying a beer (or maybe three), chatting about nothing in particular I have noticed that newbie swampers, armed with knowledge
PHOTO COURTESY CHELSEA TAYLOR
with no significance whatsoever, when the Midas Gold popped out from this geologic book and that historical canon about Powell read
- 12 - - 13 -
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