ISSUE 87 JUNE 2021 - SHEEP SUSTAINABILITY - Australian Wool Innovation
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
ISSUE 87 JUNE 2021
PROFIT FROM WOOL INNOVATION
www.wool.com
24 46 53
SHEEP SUSTAINABILITY AWI SHEARING INSPIRING THE NEXT
FRAMEWORK SHED DESIGN GENERATION
06 AMERICA’S CUP 50 AWI-FUNDED
PROMOTION OF WOOL IN-SHED TRAINING
EDITOR
Richard Smith
E richard.smith@wool.com
Australian Wool Innovation Limited
A L6, 68 Harrington St, The Rocks,
OFF-FARM ON-FARM
Sydney NSW 2000
GPO Box 4177, Sydney NSW 2001 4 WoolPoll 2021 28 Retrofitting fences with electric offsets
P 02 8295 3100 4 New AWI Grower App 30 Summer sowing legumes
E info@wool.com W wool.com
AWI Helpline 1800 070 099 5 Review of Performance 32 Managing in a modern climate
SUBSCRIPTION 5 Broader micron wools 34 Taking a closer look at colostrum
Beyond the Bale is available free.
To subscribe contact AWI 6 America's Cup promotion of wool 35 Lifetime Ewe Management
P 02 8295 3100 E info@wool.com
7 Basketball star chooses wool 36 Monitoring Australia’s healthy flock
Beyond the Bale is published by Australian 8 Woolmark Performance Challenge 38 Always follow label instructions
Wool Innovation Ltd (AWI), a company
funded by Australian woolgrowers and the 9 Feel Merino campaign is a winner 40 Give parasites the toss with ParaBoss
Australian Government. AWI’s goal is to help
increase the demand for wool by actively 10 Seamless wool kit for cyclists 42 Genetics update
selling Australian wool and its attributes 44 MLP Add-On projects
through investments in marketing, innovation 11 Move in Merino Challenge V2 on Strava
and R&D – from farm to fashion and interiors. 12 Goddess Day promotion in China 46 AWI shearing shed design in WA
COPYRIGHT 13 Zozotown ecommerce campaign in Japan 48 Shearing shed safety program in action
Material in Beyond the Bale is copyright. 50 AWI-funded in-shed training
14 Tailored knitwear for people on the go
Reproduction of the material is encouraged.
However prior permission must be obtained 15 New machine washable wool processing 51 Shearing schools lead to employment
from the Editor.
16 3D printing on wool 52 A shining start to a shearing career
DISCLAIMER 53 Next generation at SA Sheep Expo
To the extent permitted by law, Australian 17 Blooming lovely Wool4School winner
Wool Innovation Ltd excludes all liability 53 2022 Nuffield Scholarships
for loss or damage arising from the use of,
18 Wool processing education in China
or reliance on, the information contained in 19 Naturally Inspiring online seminars 54 Merinos return to Yanco
this publication.
The Woolmark symbol is a certification mark 20 Aussie Wool Comfort bedding 55 Student Merino Wether Challenge
registered in many countries.
© 2021 Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. All 21 Woolstar’s 25-year anniversary 56 AWI Graduate Training Program
rights reserved. 22 ŠKODA’s wool interiors 57 Use the National Wool Declaration
ADVERTISING SALES 23 Shepherd Filters are a clean winner 58 Market intelligence report
Steve Luxford, Pulse Hub Pty Ltd
P 0429 699 553 24 Sheep Sustainability Framework 60 EMI recovery continues
E steve.luxford@pulsehub.com.au
Advertising is subject to terms and conditions 26 Wool’s biodegradable benefits 61 Your clip insights with My WoolQ
published on the ratecard, which is available 62 Readers’ photos
from Pulse Hub.
AWI INVESTMENT STRATEGIES
ISSN Sheep Production, Processing Innovation
1447-9680 Marketing Consultation Traceability
Science & Technology & Education Extension
FRONT COVER CONNECTING WITH AWI AWI E-NEWSLETTERS:
Three important generations busy at work in the
yards at Lach River Merino Stud at Darbys Falls, To subscribe to the free monthly AWI e-newsletter
wool.com
east of Cowra in NSW. Pictured are young Henry for woolgrowers, and the weekly wool market review
Chalker with his father Brad and grandfather e-newsletter, visit www.wool.com/subscribe
Richard. The photo was shot by Brad’s wife feedback@wool.com
Elena who documents days on the farm on her
Instagram account @misspip_rural. THE WOOLMARK COMPANY
wool.com/podcast
“Like the generation prior, interest for life on the woolmark.com
land comes easily for our little ones. Our future
farming, our farming future,” said Elena. twitter.com/woolinnovation
twitter.com/woolmark
Lach River Merino Stud last month hosted facebook.com/AustralianWoolInnovation
an AWI-funded shearer and wool handling
course (see image top right). Thanks go to the facebook.com/thewoolmarkcompany
Chalkers and all involved. youtube.com/AWIWoolProduction
youtube.com/thewoolmarkcompany
Instagram.com/AustralianWool
Instagram.com/thewoolmarkcompany
View Beyond the Bale online at
This magazine is printed on PEFC BtB http://beyondthebale.wool.com
(Programme for the Endorsement of
Forest Certification) paper stock.
AWI STATE-BASED GROWER NETWORKS
AWI-supported networks are present in each state.
• Sheep Connect NSW • BESTWOOL/BESTLAMB (VIC)
• Sheep Connect SA • The Sheep’s Back (WA)
• Sheep Connect Tasmania • Leading Sheep (Qld)
Find your grower network at www.wool.com/networks or call the AWI Helpline on 1800 070 099.
GD4194
UPFRONT 3
GETTING ON WITH
BUSINESS Stuart McCullough
Chief Executive Officer
Australian Wool Innovation
Throughout the global COVID-19 pandemic, AWI has continued to work
relentlessly for woolgrowers to ensure the sustainability of our industry
and profitability for your enterprises.
consumption will also hopefully provide an
Vaccines provide incentive for brands and retailers placing
On-farm R&D and
optimism orders during the second half of this year extension
While the COVID-19 pandemic continues to for autumn/winter 2022/23 collections. It is important to note that while much
impact many countries across the world, In the meantime, particular apparel attention during the past 18 months has
with some countries such as India being segments continue to be more resilient been understandably on our retail markets,
especially badly hit, there is evidence that than others, with the knitwear and AWI’s on-farm R&D and extension projects
the roll out of vaccination programs can be outdoor/sports sectors performing well. are largely run in Australia and have
very effective at suppressing the virus. The demand for suiting and formal attire is escaped the worst of the fallout from the
The UK, which just four months still lagging but we hope that demand will pandemic. They continue to operate largely
ago was suffering more than a thousand return once office workplaces open more as normal, although we closely monitor
deaths each day plus severe lockdowns, fully and when consumers begin to indulge their progress and budgets.
has implemented perhaps the most in social gatherings once again. We continue to invest in on-farm
successful vaccination program, resulting R&D in the areas that producers have
in dramatic falls in cases, hospital told us are important to them, including
admissions and deaths. This has allowed Longer term outlook optimising sheep health and welfare,
the UK Government to largely ease its I strongly believe that the premium and combatting wild dog and fox attacks,
restrictions: the shops are open and the natural qualities of our fibre and the increasing the reproductive efficiency of
normality of life is returning. The Bank of ewes, improving the genetic gain of the
relationships we have built along the
England is forecasting the UK economy Merino, funding of in-shed shearer and
supply chain ensure a positive outlook for
will experience its fastest growth in more wool handler training, and harnessing
Australian wool, not only as the industry
than 70 years in 2021. This is great news opportunities for on-farm automation.
recovers from the economic effects of
for Australian woolgrowers because, In addition, we deliver practical
COVID-19, but in the longer term.
as well the UK being the fifth largest training programs through our extension
There are two macro trends that
economy in the world, it is also a large wool networks in each state to increase
play in wool’s favour. Firstly, the trend
consuming market. producers’ adoption of best practice
towards health and wellness, a trend
AWI is therefore very closely on-farm production and management. We
that has sharply increased in the past
examining the UK market and considering also provide timely market intelligence
18 months. Consumers’ interest in how
the release of marketing funds to take to woolgrowers, hold many face-to-face
advantage of the expected growth in the clothing they wear, the bedding they industry events, and we run projects
consumption. This is a similar strategy sleep under, the carpets they walk on and to encourage the next generation into
we employed in China, whose economy the furnishings that surround them is the industry.
recovered very fast after its early increasing – and the natural properties As AWI staff cross the country
suppression of the virus. For example, AWI of wool, in contrast to synthetic fibres, to host or attend industry events,
recently completed a successful spring/ have been shown to be beneficial for woolgrowers’ thirst for engagement with
summer marketing campaign in China people’s wellbeing. AWI is very strong as they not only wish
(see page 12) following on from the very The second macro trend is the shift to boost their flocks in the face of better
effective autumn/winter campaign held towards products that are environmentally seasons and improving commodity prices
there six months ago. friendly. In response to significant pressure but are also wanting to simply meet with
After a weak start, vaccination from global consumers and governments, their fellow woolgrowers again.
programs in the Europe Union are now brands throughout the fashion industry The sense of optimism around the
progressing well, as they are in the US, are striving to improve the environmental wool industry is obvious and this will only
and we anticipate that they will result in a and social impacts of their products. be pushed further as the global economy
similar easing of lockdown restrictions and Australian wool has a great natural and and therefore demand for wool picks up
rebound of their economies, which could sustainable story to tell, and the wool as expected.
be very lucrative for Australian wool. This industry is on the front foot in evidencing I hope you have all been safe and
current rise in optimism for future wool and promoting the fibre’s eco-credentials. well during 2021 and remain so.
4 UPFRONT
2021 WoolPoll
Your Wool Panel members
Your Vote! The 2021 WoolPoll Panel members are:
Steven Bolt, Panel Chair
Kate McBride
Jo Hall
Dianna Martin
John Murdoch Daniel Rogers
What is WoolPoll? Who can vote?
Don Macdonald, AWI Board Michael Wright
WoolPoll is a poll of eligible wool levy payers, If you have paid $100 or more in wool levies
conducted every three years, to determine over the past three financial years, you are
Christopher Dobbie, DAWE Mark Waters
the levy rate paid to AWI for industry eligible to vote in WoolPoll. For each $100 of
research, development (R&D) and marketing. levy paid, you are entitled to one vote. The Panel has elected Steven Bolt as its
Currently the levy rate is 1.5% (of the sale Your voting entitlement is determined Chairman. Mr Bolt is a woolgrower from
price woolgrowers receive for their shorn from records of your wool sales. You will Corrigin, Western Australia. He is principal
greasy wool). be notified of your voting entitlement of Claypans Merino stud and a Director of
At WoolPoll, eligible woolgrowers are The Livestock Collective.
in August. If you believe your voting
asked to consider up to five levy rate options.
entitlement has been miscalculated, you will As Chairman of the 2021 WoolPoll Panel,
They can vote for one or more levy rates in
be able to contact a voter assistance hotline. Mr Bolt is leading the efforts to get a strong
order of preference.
turn out by growers when voting gets under
The levy rate that receives the When is WoolPoll? way later this year.
highest number of votes will be paid by
all woolgrowers for the next three years • September: Eligible wool levy payers
will receive their voting papers, a Voter “It is an honour and a privilege to be
(2022/23 – 2024/25). The levy rate takes effect Chairman of the WoolPoll panel at a time of
from 1 July 2022. Information Kit (containing details about
enormous change and opportunity for the
In the 2020 WoolPoll Review, it was how AWI proposes to invest the levy funds
Australian wool industry,” Mr Bolt said.
suggested that an additional question be put at each of the five levy rate options and
forward to levy payers, for the 3-yearly cycle AWI’s recommendation) plus a summary “It is vitally important for all woolgrowers –
of WoolPoll to be changed to 5 years with the of an independent review of AWI’s no matter where you live – to cast your vote
objective of providing greater stability in the performance (2018/19 to 2020/21). for the levy rate you want to pay.
levy rate. This question is being put forward • Monday 13 September: Voting opens. “The Panel’s role is not to tell growers what
in the 2021 WoolPoll via the ballot paper to Voting will be by mail, fax or online – as rate to support but to encourage all growers
test the preference for a 5-yearly poll more per the instructions that will be sent with to have their say.”
widely with levy payers. the voting papers.
• Friday 9 November: Voting closes at 5pm More information:
Why vote? (AEDT). www.woolpoll.com.au
WoolPoll is the opportunity for levy payers • Friday 19 November: The WoolPoll result
to directly influence how much funding AWI
will be announced at AWI’s Annual QR code for
will receive for the ensuing period until the
General Meeting. The levy rate takes effect Woolpoll website
next WoolPoll to deliver R&D and marketing
from 1 July 2022.
services for the Australian wool industry.
New AWI Grower App
provides information at your fingertips
AWI has launched a new app The content of the App will be continually
updated and its functionality enhanced to suit
that provides via smartphone Australian woolgrowers’ needs. The app can be
the latest AWI news and downloaded for free from the Apple App and
resources to woolgrowers to Google Play stores – search for AWI Grower App.
support their business. The new App complements AWI’s other
digital communication channels that include the
T he latest digital communication channel
between AWI and Australian woolgrowers
is now available.
wool.com website, e-newsletters and social media
(Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and YouTube).
Through the new AWI Grower App, More information:
woolgrowers will be able to customise and www.wool.com/growerapp
prioritise the content and information they
receive from AWI, allowing the information
that is most relevant to them to be quickly and
easily accessed at the forefront of the app.
Available on iPhones and android
phones, the app is a very accessible resource
given that it would be right there on the
smartphone’s home page.
UPFRONT 5
Review of Performance recommendations
AWI’s progress of implementation
As part of AWI’s three-year business cycle, an independent THEME IMPLEMENTATION PROGRESS
review of performance (ROP) of AWI is routinely undertaken
100%*
CONSTITUTION
to assess the company’s performance. The latest ROP was
undertaken by Ernst & Young (EY) for the period 2015-2018. 24 out of 24 recommendations complete.
EY’s report, which was published in July 2018, included
99.57%*
82 recommendations. GOVERNANCE
In September 2018, AWI launched its ROP Implementation 22 out of 23 recommendations complete.
Portal at rop.wool.com to provide detailed and up to date
100%*
information to woolgrowers about the progress made by AWI MONITORING EVALUATION
in implementing the 82 recommendations. Displayed right is & REPORTING
a summary of the overall progress, and the progress across 16 out of 16 recommendations complete.
each of the seven themes of the recommendations.
100%*
COLLABORATION
Further information is available at rop.wool.com 3 out of 3 recommendations complete.
99.76% 98.57%*
PEOPLE & CULTURE
6 out of 7 recommendations complete.
OVERALL
100%*
AWI POSITION CONSULTATION
IMPLEMENTATION
Agree/ Industry 5 out of 5 recommendations complete.
PROGRESS agree (81)
For Shareholder
100%*
Consideration (1) ROP RECOMMENDATIONS
& IMPLEMENTATION
4 out of 4 recommendations complete.
* Percentage figure is calculated on the cumulative completion rate within each theme.
Remaining recommendations at various completion stages.
To view individual recommendation progress rates, visit rop.wool.com
Broader micron wools
About 18% of the Australian wool clip is currently broader
MARCH 2021 | FOR NON-MERINO WOOLGROWERS
that 23.5 micron. AWI’s The Broader View publication provides
examples of how AWI’s marketing and R&D supports producers 02 03 04
of non-Merino wool. AN UPDATE FROM THE
AWI CEO
Stuart McCullough provides an update for
non-Merino woolgrowers about the current
ŠKODA’s SUSTAINABILITY
FOCUS WITH WOOL
The interior of ŠKODA’s award-winning
ENYAQ iV battery-electric SUV is available in
AUSSIE WOOL IN THE
COMFORT ZONE
Woolmark licensee Aussie Wool Comfort
manufactures and retails pure wool bedding
demand for wool and AWI’s marketing a Woolmark-certified wool blend fabric. products made from quality Australian
and R&D. cross bred wool.
Marketing broader wools AWI’s marketing of all Australian
wool, irrespective of the micron, and the
AWI markets Australian wool of all microns, 05 06 07
Woolmark brand is beneficial to all wool
including the broader wools. For example, SHEPHERD FILTERS ARE A
CLEAN WINNER
I MADE A COAT USING MY
OWN PERENDALE WOOL
WOOLMARK LEARNING
CENTRE PROVES POPULAR
including broader wools. Made from 100% Australian broad wool, Student Eve Girdwood arranged the This web-based hub houses free world-
projects such as the Campaign for Wool
Shepherd Filters capture up to 98% of processing of wool from her own Perendale class educational resources about wool for
airborne grease before it enters kitchen flock into fabric to create a wonderful professionals and students all along the
exhaust systems. wool coat. textile supply chain.
are active in reconnecting consumers to On-farm R&D and
the multitude of wool’s uses including
hardwearing interior products for the home
extension 08 09 10
as well as apparel and accessory products. AWI’s on-farm R&D and extension projects MARKET INTELLIGENCE:
BROAD WOOL
BE A PART OF THE DIGITAL
REVOLUTION
CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL:
WOOL WEEK UK
In this edition, we look at Australia’s supply WoolQ provides all woolgrowers with an The Campaign raises awareness of the
Similarly, AWI’s Woolmark Learning Centre largely benefit all Australian woolgrowers, of non-Merino wool and the prices received
in the broad wool segment during the
past decade.
opportunity to harness digital efficiencies
across the wool-growing and selling cycle.
natural benefits of wool and reconnects
designers, brands and consumers with its
versatility uses.
and Learn About Wool education initiatives irrespective of the breed and micron of
provide resources to students and textile their sheep.
The latest edition of AWI’s The Broader View
professionals about the broader as well as AWI invests in on-farm R&D in the publication for non-Merino woolgrowers.
finer microns. areas that producers have told us are
There are many Woolmark licensees important to them, including optimising
that produce products made from broad sheep health and welfare, combatting and management. AWI also provides timely
wool and use the Woolmark logo in their wild dog and fox attacks, increasing the market intelligence to woolgrowers, holds
marketing activities. More than 130 reproductive efficiency of ewes, funding many face-to-face industry events, and runs
Woolmark licensees worldwide are bedding of in-shed shearer and wool handler projects to encourage the next generation
companies that market their wool products training, and harnessing opportunities for into the industry.
with the help of the Woolmark brand. on-farm automation.
Similarly, there are a number of Woolmark In addition, AWI delivers practical More information:
licensees that manufacture and market wool training programs through its extension AWI’s The Broader View publication for non-
carpets and there is also an increase in the networks in each state to increase producers’ Merino woolgrowers is available on the AWI
use of Woolmark-certified car interiors. adoption of best practice on-farm production website at www.wool.com/broaderview2021
6 OFF
FARM
The Luna Rossa
yacht – with the
Woolmark logo
displayed on the
sail – competing
in the final of The
America’s Cup
in March.
America’s Cup promotion
pays dividends
The 36th
America’s Cup
in figures
Through AWI’s support of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team at
the 36th America’s Cup, Australian Merino wool was showcased
to millions of potential customers, and significant interest was REACH
generated from global apparel brands who are now working with
AWI on product development initiatives.
198
A WI subsidiary The Woolmark Company
was the official technical partner of the
Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team during the 36th
What benefits did the
partnership deliver to
territories worldwide in which the
America’s Cup was broadcast
America’s Cup, the world-famous yachting (236 including social media)
race series and the oldest trophy in the history
woolgrowers?
1. Increased consumer awareness: There has
66.7 million
of sport.
The Woolmark Company supported been a rise in awareness of Australian wool’s
the team in the research and development technical and environmental benefits amongst
dedicated viewing audience
of a Merino wool-rich uniform for the entire a global consumer audience, plus reputational
(live plus highlights)
team and crew during training and sailing. benefits for the fibre through association with
Select garments were also commercialised the world’s most prestigious sailing race and
though Prada’s network of stores and
e-commerce platforms.
global brand partner, Prada.
2. Product sales: Woolmark-branded items
including race jackets, polo shirts and T-shirts
225%
increase in the dedicated audience
“The partnership between the Luna Rossa
Prada Pirelli team and The Woolmark Company
have been sold at retail and are still available from the previous America’s Cup
through Prada’s online store.
is based on a shared philosophy, inspired by
3. New business opportunities for wool in the
1 billion
innovation and technology, as well as research
performance market: Most promisingly, the
into new materials and social responsibility,”
project has generated significant interest
said Prada Group Head of Marketing and people viewed America’s Cup
from many global performance brands who
Communication, Lorenzo Bertelli. coverage (dedicated, plus news
are currently working with AWI teams on
The racing team spectacularly won the and sports magazines)
various product development opportunities
Prada Cup in February to become the unique
with Australian Merino wool. These include
challenger in the 36th America’s Cup Match held
Loro Piana, Max Mara, Woolrich, Lacoste, Sease,
in March. Both races received immense media
coverage.
Canada Goose, Moncler, Salewa and many
others across the world. Furthermore, the
PRODUCT
AWI CEO Stuart McCullough said the
partnership with this legendary Italian team
European Space Agency is now interested is
testing wool’s suitability for its astronauts.
DEVELOPMENT
highlighted the strong link between the world of
12
sport and Australian Merino wool as a premium
“The assessment for the value of this program was
performance fibre.
determined by the opportunity for an audience
“AWI’s decision to be the official technical suppliers of wool yarn and fabric involved
of both consumers and industry, and the value
partner of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team in the R&D for the team’s uniform
associated with aligning Australian Merino wool
was a smart and cost-effective move. It with Prada, one of the world’s most influential and
promoted wool as a premium, breathable, water
42
iconic brands,” Stuart said.
resistant and sustainable fibre on the world “Due to the impact of COVID-19,
stage,” he said. partnerships such as this which provide a global
“Through a program of content, media
international brands, plus other specialist
platform to broadcast our fibre message are sports brands, have now contacted AWI
and events, we amplified the environmental essential. During the past 12 months, virtually all directly regarding wool in sport
and performance benefits of Australian Merino apparel industry events and physical sourcing
wool to a vast global audience of sporting fans opportunities were cancelled, but the America’s
and performance brands with the ultimate goal
of increasing market share and demand for
Australian Merino wool within the performance
Cup allowed us to continue to market Australian
Merino wool as an elite performance fibre despite 850
brands viewed the uniform
the lock-downs.”
apparel category.” collection at trade shows
OFF 7
FARM
Basketball star chooses
Merino wool
Australian-born NBA All-Star Ben Simmons has collaborated with AWI to develop his first-ever
merchandise: a high-performance T-shirt made from Australian Merino wool.
B asketballer Ben Simmons from
Melbourne is currently Australia’s
greatest sporting export and one of the most
Destined to shoot hoops
Ben’s American-born father, Dave, originally
At 15, Ben travelled to the USA to
play amongst the world’s best high school
basketball players, a time during which he
gifted players in the American NBA. Ben from the Bronx in New York, also had a realised his basketball future lay in the USA.
debuted in 2017 for the Philadelphia 76s and professional basketball career, which saw He later joined Louisiana State University
was named NBA Rookie of the Year in 2018 him relocate to Australia in the late 1980s to before being drafted #1 by the Philadelphia
and an NBA All-Star in 2019, 2020 and 2021. play for the Melbourne Tigers. Dave met his 76s in the NBA where he has shined.
His skill is praised by many including Australian wife-to-be, Julie, and in 1996 Ben
was born in Fitzroy.
the legendary Magic Johnson who said of
him: “Ben Simmons is the best all round The following year, the family moved Giving back to Australia
player I’ve seen since Lebron James came north to Newcastle where Dave played Born and raised in Australia alongside
for the Newcastle Falcons. Ben showed his five siblings, Ben feels a responsibility
out of high school straight to the NBA!” The
promise early on at basketball, playing for to “give back” to kids in Australia. He has
24-year-old’s high profile has also garnered
the Newcastle Hunter’s under-12 side, but he been running unique community and
him a large following on social media, with
also played competitive rugby league. After family focused basketball camps since 2017.
5.4 million followers on Instagram alone.
the family moved back to Melbourne, when With 1,400 participants across Sydney and
In collaboration with AWI,
Ben was age 10, Ben continued to excel at Melbourne, the events offer Australian fans
Ben recently launched his first-ever
basketball. He was also keen on Australian a unique basketball experience to learn from
merchandise: a T-shirt made from 100%
rules football and continues to be an avid and interact with Ben.
super soft Australian Merino wool of 18.9
supporter of the Essendon Bombers in In December, he also launched the
micron. Designed by Ben himself, the
the AFL. Ben Simmons Family Foundation (BSFF), an
T-shirt seamlessly blends high-performance,
Australian-based charitable organisation
sustainability and high fashion. The T-shirt
that has the core purpose of supporting
carries the Woolmark seal of approval
programs that promote equal access for
following a rigorous quality assurance
children to education, sport, wellness
process which guarantees fibre authenticity
and technology.
and long-life performance.
The Ben Simmons Merino Wool T-shirt
“We chose to work with Australian
was born from the BSFF value ‘Do it with
Merino wool because it’s a sustainable, Heart’ – lead with heart, do the right thing
ethically produced fibre that’s also incredibly and value that everything is connected. The
high quality. It’s soft, odour resistant and T-shirt design centres around the mantra
temperature regulating, and it has an ‘equalize’ which is written on the back of
amazing drape,” Ben said. the T-shirt in some of the many languages
“For me, you shouldn’t have spoken and inspired by communities
to compromise between luxury and around the world that love and
performance, and I’m proud that it’s celebrate basketball.
produced in Australia, so Merino wool was a The Ben Simmons Merino
natural choice for the fabric.” Wool T shirt was made available
on the Hypebeast e-commerce
store HBX.com on 29 April.
Basketball superstar
Ben Simmons has
launched a T-shirt
made from Australian
Merino wool.
8 OFF
FARM
4,500+
tertiary students involved
263
universities in 25 countries
Now in its fourth year, the Woolmark Performance Challenge
is an annual competition for tertiary students from across
the world to develop innovative new product applications for 1,053
Merino wool within the sports and performance market. In innovation ideas submitted
2020, the students were asked to consider ocean racing and
the harsh and demanding nature of the sport as the catalyst
for their design process.
U nlike other competitions which are thereby gives AWI and its partners access to
550,000+
based solely on design aesthetics, the a global pool of world class inventive minds.
Woolmark Performance Challenge asks It also provides a unique learning experience
students to delve into fibre science and for participants and awards the winners website hits since program launch
garment technology, while harnessing the with prizes including industry internships
unique natural properties of Australian and ongoing training support, plus the
Merino wool. The initiative aims to really opportunity to sell their idea to AWI or that
‘push the limits’ of product innovation by year’s competition sponsor.
inspiring students from a very wide range of Education is a key component of the
specialisms – including science, technology initiative. Through a series of Woolmark
and design. Performance Challenge webinars by
All entries must use a minimum of industry experts and sportspeople (including
50% Merino wool within their product Olympic gold medallists), AWI during the
composition. past 12 months has educated participating
AWI’s ultimate objective for the students about wool – to not only arm
Woolmark Performance Challenge is to them with information to assist in their
increase the demand for Australian Merino competition entry, but to also encourage and
wool in the activewear sector. Although inspire them to think about wool in their
leading manufacturers and brands in this future careers.
sector are already promoting the natural AWI General Manager, Processing
benefits of Merino wool as a performance Innovation & Education Extension, Julie
fibre, there is still further significant Davies, said the Woolmark Performance
potential for the fibre in this sector. Challenge continues to be one of the
AWI partners with sports and highlights of the company’s product
outdoor industry heavyweights to amplify development and education programs.
the messages about the competition “The Woolmark Performance Carly Conduff of the University of Oregon,
and the performance benefits of Merino Challenge is a very exciting initiative USA, was awarded a three-month paid
wool. During the first two years of the that enables young talent to learn about internship with Helly Hansen.
competition, AWI’s partner was leading Merino wool, understand its attributes as a Using 100% Merino wool, Carly created
sportwear company adidas; in 2020 the sustainable performance fibre, and explore a system of apparel under the athlete’s
partner was Norwegian-based outdoor unchartered territories in sportswear.” outer dry suit that is specifically tailored
apparel company Helly Hansen; in the 2021 to the female body – providing superior
the partners are Swiss running shoe and support, strategic insulation, and lightweight
apparel brand On and Italian mountain
Innovative products from protection to enable optimal performance in
equipment brand SALEWA. the 2020 challenge race conditions.
College students from across the The 2020 Woolmark Performance Challenge “A lot of my inspiration as a designer is
world each year are invited to apply for brief invited participants to consider how understanding how products can play a role
the Woolmark Performance Challenge. Merino wool can replace synthetic fibres in in removing physical barriers, such as the
First launched in 2018, the annual initiative modern highly technical sailing clothing. severe environmental conditions that ocean
continues to grow and has so far involved From 352 entries for the 2020 racing athletes are partaking in, as well as
more than 4,500 students from more than competition, ten tertiary students were the mental ones – so that women on race day
260 universities in 25 countries across shortlisted. The three winners and all ten can have the confidence that the product
the world. of the finalists’ innovative concepts were was made for her and will not get in the way
The Woolmark Performance Challenge announced in March. of what they can achieve,” Carly said.
OFF 9
FARM
FEEL MERINO
campaign a winner
AWI’s Feel Merino marketing campaign that was launched
in November last year in the US succeeded in increasing US
consumers’ awareness of Merino wool as a natural fibre that is
Younghwan Kim of Kookmin University
in South Korea was awarded a research
soft on the skin and ideal for sports and outdoor pursuits and,
bursary to continue his idea development. importantly, drove increased sales of Merino wool products.
Concerned about the prevalence
of plastic in our lives and environmental
catastrophes such as the Great Pacific
Garbage Patch, Younghwan asked himself:
how can we make a waterproof material
while keeping Merino wool’s softness and
light weight, without plastic?
“I achieve this goal with a novel 100%
natural and renewable material, bringing $14.3 8 77
together Merino wool and Ottchil – a natural
paint derived from a sap of the lacquer million million million
tree, which affords additional benefits of Merino wool sales video views impressions
salinity tolerance, thermal resistance, water
resistance, moth-proofing and durability – to
create the perfect knitted wool footwear,” The Woolmark Company’s
Younghwan said. Feel Merino store on Amazon.
com made it very easy to
find commercially available
Merino wool products for
each consumer’s preferred
sporting activity.
12.5% 260K
uplift in awareness of Merino wool
Merino wool and units sold
The Woolmark Company
Woolgrower Dave Ward from ‘Spring
Ponds’ near Goulburn in NSW also
featured in the campaign.
Bettina Blomstedt of Aalto University in
Finland was awarded a three-month paid
internship with The Woolmark Company.
Bettina started her research with
sustainability in mind, asking: how can
T he Feel Merino campaign was developed by AWI’s marketing arm The Woolmark
Company to help put an end to the mistaken perception amongst the average US
consumer that wool is “warm and itchy” and only suitable for very traditional (ie non-
sport) sectors.
the inherent properties of Merino wool be
Instead, the campaign created a new narrative for Merino wool as a hard-working,
utilised in sportswear, without adding any
but always soft, performance fibre – the campaign’s message being: “Soft on your skin
synthetic materials to the mix? no matter the challenge, Mother Nature knows best with Merino wool.”
Using my knowledge in knitting A key element of the Feel Merino campaign was to drive purchases of
technology and taking a look back at commercially available Merino wool performance wear on e-commerce giant Amazon.
traditional techniques, my concept com. Consumers viewed the Amazon partner pages 7.8 million times with more than a
explores alternative ways of achieving quarter of a million units of Merino wool products sold.
sportswear performance by enhancing Shot in NSW, the campaign’s story of Merino wool was told through the people
the natural existing properties of Merino who wear it: the iconic Australian woolgrower and the everyday athlete. The two were
wool,” Bettina said. presented in parallel, showing that woolgrowers have days as physical and exacting
as athletes.
More information:
www.woolmarkchallenge.com More information: www.woolmark.com/feel-merino
10 OFF
FARM
T he two collections, one comprising cycling
garments for women and the other for
men, were developed using Merino wool yarns
from Südwolle Group and knitted on state-of-
the-art knitting machines from Santoni.
The fabrics in both collections benefit
from Merino wool’s superior softness,
breathability, moisture management,
elasticity and odour resistance. When
combined with the latest technological
advancements in yarn development and
knitting technology, the Merino wool
provides the garments with superior
comfort, durability and performance for the
modern cyclist.
“These collaborations with leading
industry players shine the light on how
technical advances in the industry can create
supremely functional garments for high
aerobic activities while incorporating the
natural benefits of Merino wool,” said AWI
General Manager, Processing Innovation &
Education Extension, Julie Davies.
The garments are vastly more eco-
Seamless Merino
friendly than their synthetic counterparts.
The eco-credentials of Merino wool – a 100%
natural, renewable and biodegradable fibre
that doesn’t produce microplastics – ensure
cycling kit
a minimal environmental footprint on
the planet.
Furthermore, the seamless knitting
technology reduces fabric waste in
comparison to traditional cut and sew
Two new innovative prototype collections of cycling garments,
developed by AWI in collaboration with industry partners,
illustrate the full potential of Merino wool used in technical
seamless performance apparel.
The short sleeve cycling jersey
(the second layer), pictured at
the top-left of the page, has a
gradient yarn colour application
The cycling bib (the first with a closed mesh body for air
layer) has been created for movement and diverse density for
the female form with bra breathability.
shaping that gives support
and stretches with the body The half-zip front and integrated
to accommodate a range of pocket storage at the back add
breast sizes. functional benefits whilst the
bonded seam finishing and the
The mesh pattern knit across seamless side adds comfort and
the torso and legs of the bib performance benefits.
creates a raised structure for
breathability and ventilation.
The cycling socks have a
The cycling arm warmers detailed knit pattern with
feature a textured fabric reflective details knitted
with reflective detailing into the cuff (rather than
and integrated grip at the bonded or printed on top)
top of the sleeve to prevent and a rib structured footbed
slippage whilst the knit for comfort, cushioning and
structure has shaping at breathability.
the elbow for comfort and
bonded seams.OFF 11
FARM
methods – and due to its piece-by-piece 150,000
bulk production method, seamless participants
knitting provides a high degree of
flexibility and personalisation.
Women’s collection 4 million
active hours
The women’s seamless cycling garments
were developed by AWI in collaboration
with innovative knitwear designer studio
Studio Eva x Carola. The collection
59 million
comprises a cycling bib, jersey, arm-
miles covered
warmers and socks, that together create
a complete, layered kit for ultimate
cycling performance (see opposite page).
8,580
The garments were knitted using Woolmark Strava
Santoni’s Top2 Fast technology (single club members
jersey machine) using a finer gauge to
what is mainly used in the market, which
provides a lighter weight material. 14 million
Key stitch structures include website impressions
compression for performance and
recovery, an open structure for ventilation
and breathability, and loft on both the
inside and outside of fabric for insulation
and warmth.
“By smartly selecting the right
Merino wool yarns and creating beautiful
textures and loft structures, the garments
not only offer a gentle-on-the-skin
comfort, but also provide durability and The Woolmark Company in April held its
protection during your ride,” said Eva de second highly anticipated ‘Move in Merino
Laat of Studio Eva x Carola.
Challenge’ on the exercise-focused social
The seam bonding used in the
garment construction was developed networking platform Strava. The community
in collaboration with Italian company engagement initiative once again encouraged
MACPI. It incorporates a very clean consumers to exercise wearing Merino wool,
finish that eliminates any seam friction driving sales of brand partners’ products
while also retaining the flexibility and
movement needed during cycling.
and building its community of active-minded
High quality reflective tape on the Merino wool ambassadors.
face of the fabric was created by heat
transfer in close collaboration with S.E.C.
to purchase and exercise in Merino
Accessories, a company that works with
wool products.
the world’s leading sports brands.
“Our Move in Merino Challenge on
F
“Each of the yarns for the garments ollowing the success in November of Strava encouraged people to get out-of-doors,
have differing compositions, weights and its first ‘Move in Merino Challenge’ on breathe in the fresh air and exercise in Merino
characteristics suited to provide optimal Strava, AWI subsidiary The Woolmark wool. By connecting directly with individual
performance for each particular garment,” Company held the initiative again, in April, users, the initiative aimed to increase
said Stefan Schöffel of Südwolle Group. encouraging people to get outdoors and awareness of the benefits of our country’s
active… in Merino wool. But this time, there
Men’s collection were more partners, bigger discounts up for
premium natural fibre and drive sales for
our brand partners,” said AWI CEO Stuart
The men’s seamless cycling garments, grabs and prizes from partners to win. McCullough.
comprising a cycling jersey and short, Especially popular with runners and “From running and cycling to walking
were developed by AWI in collaboration cyclists, Strava has 58 million registered and hiking, outdoor exercise has perks for the
with Hong Kong-based company users worldwide. The website enables body, mind and soul. Wearing Merino wool
Chemtax, pairing a Merino yarn from users to upload their fitness activity. whilst you exercise means you are choosing a
Südwolle Group with Fulgar’s bio-based They can compare their performance over product that is 100% natural, renewable and
EVO® yarn, and knitted using Santoni’s time, compete with their community, and biodegradable. The best decision for you and
Top2 Fast technology. share the photos, stories and highlights of the environment.”
EVO® by Fulgar is a yarn derived their activities. The Woolmark Company also has The
from the castor plant that, like Merino The Move in Merino Challenge ran Woolmark Company Club on Strava, providing
wool, is a totally renewable resource. from 1-28 April, with approximately 150,000 a platform for active-minded consumers to
Plated together with the Südwolle Merino people joining the initiative. come together to find out the latest Merino
wool yarn, the two yarns create a very eco- Participants were challenged to performance offerings, stay connected and
friendly product. undertake 28 hours of activity during the share inspiration to get moving in Merino
A fine and high strength yarn, month, which once completed enabled wool. A Strava Club works much like a brand
the EVO® by Fulgar provides extra them to access exclusive discounts from Facebook page.
stretchabilty to the product. top Merino wool performancewear brands
including Aclima, ashmei, FUTURUM, More information:
More information: Isadore, Minus33, Tracksmith and Unbound www.strava.com/challenges/Woolmark-
www.woolmark.com/seamlesscycling Merino, thereby encouraging consumers Move-in-Merino-202112 OFF
FARM
Luxury wool
products promoted
for Goddess Day
in China
Timed to coincide with the major ‘Goddess Day’ shopping festival
across China, AWI’s marketing arm The Woolmark Company
partnered with two leading fashion e-commerce platforms to
promote Australian Merino wool. Consumers were encouraged to
purchase the featured Merino wool.
Pictured is a shot from Weibo, one of
the largest social media platforms
in China.
R elated to International Women’s Day
on 8 March, Goddess Day in China has
become established during recent years as a
103 20 55% time for shopping, with many Chinese men
buying gifts for their female relatives, and
millon
impressions
millon
video views
significantly more likely
to purchase Merino wool
after seeing the campaign
women (female employees get a half-day
holiday) rewarding their inner “goddess” by
shopping online.
For Goddess Day this year, The
Woolmark Company partnered with
e-commerce retailers Net-a-Porter and
Farfetch, as well as local and international
fashion brands, to promote a large range of
150%
womenswear apparel products suitable for
150%
increase in wool sold on increase in wool-related
spring and summer.
The aim of the campaign was, firstly, to
Net-a-Porter searches on Net-a-Porter build awareness of Merino wool’s versatility
amongst digitally savvy shoppers and,
secondly, to increase consumers’ intent to
purchase Merino wool products.
Initial reports from the campaign have
shown that consumers have significantly
increased their association of Merino wool
with the attributes “suitable for spring and
summer”, “breathable” and “soft and light”.
Meanwhile 55% of consumers said that,
having viewed the campaign, they are now
significantly more likely to purchase apparel
made from Merino wool; this rating is higher
than industry averages.
While the marketing campaign was
a response to the growing demand for
high-quality products in the Chinese retail
market, it was especially well timed due to
the current strength of the Chinese market
while many other retail markets across the
world are still unsettled due to COVID-19.
Furthermore, China is the world’s largest
e-commerce market and online sales have
grown even larger since the pandemic hit.
Online sales in China were valued at US$1.17
trillion in 2020.
Actress Chun Xia (whose name
The consumer marketing campaign increased awareness of the Merino wool as a fibre suitable
for spring/summer apparel, plus it drove purchases of apparel from a range of Chinese and literally and very aptly means Spring
international brands. Summer in English) was the face of TheOFF 13
FARM
Zozotown
ecommerce campaign
in Japan
With more and more apparel purchases nowadays being
made online, AWI’s marketing arm The Woolmark Company
has collaborated with Japan’s largest online fashion retailer,
Zozotown, to drive sales of Merino wool apparel products.
ZOZOTOWN PROJECT RESULTS
25%
more wool
33%
increase in sales value
14 million
campaign
products sold of wool products impressions
Famous actress Chun Xia was the face
of the campaign and starred in a short
film and the imagery accompanying
the campaign. T he Woolmark Company worked with
Japanese online fashion retailer
Zozotown to increase purchases of Merino
on the home pages of the Zozotown website
and app. The campaign content received 13.8
million impressions (the number of times
wool products by consumers for a month the banners were displayed), which was 38%
Woolmark Company’s marketing during the winter 2020/21 retail season. The more impressions than projected.
campaign and featured in promotional campaign promoted 6,686 commercially In addition, a promotion on Twitter
imagery and a short fashion film Spring available wool-rich apparel products, was held on the campaign’s launch day,
& Summer Action, in which the lightness, available from more than 200 brands. which not only created $96,500 in organic
breathability and superior quality of The campaign focused on apparel media value, but also resulted in 84,896
Merino wool garments were highlighted. with a premium-casual aesthetic which mentions of Merino wool on Twitter in
As part of the campaign, Net-a- has been recognised as a target area in the December in Japan, compared to 2,201
Porter offered wool styling suggestions market due to shifting trends towards less mentions in December 2019.
through its T-mall store and presented formal dressing. As well as directly increasing the sale
gifts to consumers who purchased For a month, from 7 December 2020 of Merino wool products, the project also
wool products from brands including to 7 January 2021, a bespoke Merino wool provided The Woolmark Company with
Altuzarra, Vince, JW Anderson and landing page was live on Zozotown’s website insights into consumers’ current online
Ganni. Farfetch, together with brands (desktop, mobile) and app, which highlighted purchasing behaviour on Zozotown, such
including AMI Paris, Comme des Garçons, the most popular wool categories for men as users of the app being more engaged
Alexander McQueen, Isabel Marant, Etro, and women, as well as information about the shoppers than users of the web, and
Theory and Zegna, showcased spring/ meaning of the Woolmark logo. that the most popular premium casual
summer collections of wool apparel on A series of online banner selling categories for wool being cardigans
the Farfetch China app, where stylists advertisements were also placed for 48 hours and jumpers.
also provided live personal shopping
services. Local premium womenswear
fashion brands ICICLE, JNBY, Edition and
MEILLEUR MOMENT also took part in
the campaign.
“Soft, breathable and
environmentally friendly, Merino wool
is the fibre of choice of luxury fashion
brands and designers,” said AWI Country
Manager for Greater China, Jeff Ma. “We
are very honoured to have Miss Chun Xia
as our ambassador, and we thank Net-
a-Porter and Farfetch for their support
in helping us reach a wider audience
through their platforms.”
This spring/summer campaign
followed on from the successful
marketing campaign held by The
Woolmark Company in China six months
ago. That campaign promoted Australian
Merino wool products on China’s popular
e-commerce platform T-mall during the
autumn/winter retail season. The landing page on the Zozotown website that promoted Merino wool products to Japanese consumers.14 OFF
FARM
Tailored knitwear
for people on the go
With the aim to create new commercial opportunities for wool, AWI and industry partners have
developed a modern new look for suiting, using knitwear technology rather than woven fabrics.
Dress and bomber jacket made with Coat, jumper and trousers made with Zegna Coat, jumper and trousers made with
Tollegno 1900 yarns. Baruffa Lane Borgosesia yarns. Filati Loro Piana yarns.
A WI has collaborated with knitting
machine company Shima Seiki Italia and
three Merino wool yarn manufacturers in
Innovative fabric
construction
usual benefits including comfort, natural
stretch, thermoregulation and odour- and
wrinkle-resistance, this unique fabrication
Italy – Filati Loro Piana, Tollegno 1900, and The fabrics have a ‘double face’ structure provides additional performance benefits
Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia – to create a comprising two layers of knits, the first such as water repellency and minimal
‘first of its kind’ capsule collection that offers made using Merino wool yarn which
chance of pilling.
provides a beautiful texture and luxurious
a new interpretation of tailoring by using an “All three of the outfits originated
touch, and the second made using a TPU
innovative form of knitwear. from the same creative matrix, conceiving
Evolution® yarn, from Italian company
Titled ‘Wool To Go - Tailored Knit’, a man and a woman always in motion,
CoatYarn SRL, which provides a ‘peach-like’
the collection comprises three outfits that metropolitan, and with this thought in
touch. The result is a garment that is more
provide a modern and urban take on the mind we have produced structures with
rigid, yet elastic and soft to touch.
classic formal look using knitted fabrics, the latest generation machines from Shima
The combination of the two knitted
rather than traditionally used woven fabrics. materials, created when the TPU Evolution® Seiki, using Merino wool yarns from three
The garments are a showcase of the latest yarn melts during a heat treatment, provides different spinners from the Biella region,”
knitting technology from Shima Seiki as well wool knitwear garments with a new and said Creative Director of Shima Seiki Italia,
contemporary look. As well as having wool’s Vittorio Branchizio.
as Woolmark-certified Merino wool yarns.
A close up of the three-dimensional padded
effect (left) incorporated in the bomber jacket,
and pleats (right) used in the dress made
using Tollegno 1900 yarns (see top left image).OFF 15
FARM
Superwash wool
now even more super
AWI has worked with an industry partner to commercialise
a new shrink proofing technology for machine washable
The heat vapour treatment that joins wool garments, which is less complex and costly than
the two layers of knitwear. traditional shrink proofing processes whilst also reducing
The production process is an
water, chemical and energy consumption.
environmentally friendly one that avoids
the traditional cut and sew technique and
uses exactly the correct quantity of yarn,
thereby resulting in less fabric waste
than traditional garment manufacturing.
Furthermore, no linings are needed with
these garments. Advantages
New opportunities over traditional
for wool superwash
AWI’s Research & Development
Manager for Europe, Birgit Gahlen,
treatment
was instrumental in setting up the
collaboration with Shima Seiki and
brought together all the project partners • Less water
to work on the capsule collection.
“At AWI, we are always looking for • Less chemicals
new product and process developments;
it’s important that the supply chain • Less energy
continues to work together, nowadays
more than ever,” Birgit said. • More straightforward
“Collaborations such as this not
only stimulate the supply chain to • More accessible
undertake innovative R&D, but it also
provides new opportunities for the whole
textile supply chain, from manufacturers
to brands, to create new commercial
opportunities for wool, in this case for AWI has worked with Jeanologia to develop and commercialise a groundbreaking
the urban and contemporary market new technique for making wool garments machine washable.
favoured by the younger generations.”
T
Shima Seiki and AWI are now he development nearly 50 years Without any treatment, the small scales
reaching out to companies and brands ago of machine washable wool, on the surface of wool fibres can interlock
across the world to offer them a sometimes known as superwash wool, when exposed to moisture and agitation
presentation of the capsule collection. revolutionised the wool industry and it has leading to felting. A washing machine is the
The fabrics from the collection are been extensively adopted. It means that perfect environment to create this felting
featured in AWI’s The Wool Lab Digital consumers are able to easily launder a wide effect leading to shrinkage in garments. The
sourcing guide and are also being range of wool garments in their domestic new WoolUp treatment is a relatively simple
promoted at the Pitti Connect digital washing machine without fear of the dry process that uses an ozone treatment,
trade show. product shrinking, losing its shape or felting. to modify the surface of the wool fibres. It
However, as part of AWI’s commitment removes the tips of the scales and smooths
More information: to minimise wool’s environmental the fibres which allows them to slide against
www.woolmark.com/tailoredknit footprint along the supply chain, AWI each other without interlocking, thereby
has recently completed a project with preventing felting and shrinking.
Spanish-based machine manufacturer While the WoolUp process can be
Jeanologia to commercialise a new, more used for the treatment of worsted and
eco-friendly process to make wool garments woollen apparel (100% wool and wool
machine washable. blend), the technology is a breakthrough
The eco-advantages of the process, particularly for companies wishing to enter
known as WoolUp, is that it uses the lambswool knitwear market, in which
significantly less chemicals, water and machine washable claims have previously
energy than the traditional method and its been difficult to achieve due to the nature of
impact on the environment is very small. the finishing required and its complexity.
Furthermore, it is a much less complex
With the WoolUp process having
and more accessible process than the
been successfully validated through testing
traditional process. It is suitable for use on
Creative Director of Shima Seiki Italia, Vittorio
and evaluation, AWI’s focus will now be to
an industrial scale.
Branchizio, showing the ‘double face’ structure of encourage garment manufacturers across
the knitwear. How does the new treatment work?
the world to adopt the technology.You can also read
