Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021

 
CONTINUE READING
Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
                                           PROFIT FROM WOOL INNOVATION
                                                          www.wool.com

                     Australian wool in
                     the America’s Cup

              08                    32                           56
WHY SUSTAINABILITY     FLYSTRIKE VACCINE               HANDS-ON
          MATTERS              PROGRESS            RURAL TRAINING
Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
19 A
                                                                     CTIVEWEAR REACHES                                                   28 LIFETIME EWE
                                                                      NEW HEIGHTS                                                               MANAGEMENT
EDITOR
Richard Smith
E richard.smith@wool.com

Australian Wool Innovation Limited
A L6, 68 Harrington St, The Rocks,
                                                  OFF-FARM                                                         ON-FARM
   Sydney NSW 2000
   GPO Box 4177, Sydney NSW 2001                      4    Wool 2030: New long-term strategy                       28 Lifetime Ewe Management
P 02 8295 3100                                        6    Review of Performance                                   30 Croc trough pumping system
E info@wool.com W wool.com
AWI Helpline 1800 070 099                             6    Wool face masks                                         32 Flystrike vaccine update
SUBSCRIPTION                                          7    Project results in numbers                              34 Anaesthetic and analgesic treatments
Beyond the Bale is available free.
To subscribe contact AWI                              8    Fashion’s sustainability focus                          36 It’s Fly Time! resources
P 02 8295 3100 E info@wool.com
                                                      9    Fashion and regenerative agriculture                    38 ParaBoss: Set your sights on parasites
Beyond the Bale is published by Australian            11 Technology to trace Aussie wool                           40 MLP: Ram mating success insights
Wool Innovation Ltd (AWI), a company
funded by Australian woolgrowers and the              12 Wool set to gain from circularity                         42 Comparing sheep performance
Australian Government. AWI’s goal is to help
increase the demand for wool by actively              14 Traceable wool from farm to fashion                       45 AWI breeding publications
selling Australian wool and its attributes                                                                         46 10 years of FeralScan
through investments in marketing, innovation          16 America’s Cup series’ wool showcase
and R&D – from farm to fashion and interiors.         18 Lana Vello athleisurewear                                 47 Hoggone feral pig bait

COPYRIGHT                                             19 New performance wear from ashmei                          48 SA Dog Fence rebuild
Material in Beyond the Bale is copyright.                                                                          49 Trap kits… still trapping
                                                      20 Hats off to Aussie wool!
Reproduction of the material is encouraged.
However prior permission must be obtained             22 Digital printing on wool                                  50 Wild dog control benefits wildlife
from the Editor.
                                                      23 The Wool Lab Digital                                      51 Rebuilding on Kangaroo Island
DISCLAIMER                                                                                                         52 Mobile shearing
To the extent permitted by law, Australian            24 Wool4School tops 100,000 students
Wool Innovation Ltd excludes all liability                                                                         54 Shearer and wool handler training
for loss or damage arising from the use of,
                                                      25 Wool denim designs for on the go
or reliance on, the information contained in          26 I made a coat using my own wool!                          55 Shear brilliance from Kevin Gellatly
this publication.
The Woolmark symbol is a certification mark                                                                        55 Harvesting training videos
registered in many countries.
© 2021 Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. All
                                                                                                                   56 Hay Inc hands-on rural training
rights reserved.                                                                                                   58 Market intelligence report
ADVERTISING SALES                                                                                                  60 EMI starts to recover
Steve Luxford, Pulse Hub Pty Ltd
P 0429 699 553                                    AWI INVESTMENT STRATEGIES                                        61 Promote your wool on WoolQ
E steve.luxford@pulsehub.com.au                                          Sheep Production,
Advertising is subject to terms and conditions
                                                          Marketing                                 Consultation   62 Readers’ photos
                                                                         Science & Technology
published on the ratecard, which is available
from Pulse Hub.                                           Processing Innovation
                                                                                         Traceability
                                                          & Education Extension
ISSN
1447-9680
                                                  CONNECTING WITH AWI                                              AWI E-NEWSLETTERS:
FRONT COVER
In a global showcase of Australian Merino wool,                                                                    To subscribe to the free monthly AWI e-newsletter
                                                  		 wool.com
the America’s Cup team Luna Rossa Prada                                                                            for woolgrowers, and the weekly wool market review
Pirelli has benefited from the performance                                                                         e-newsletter, visit www.wool.com/subscribe
attributes of the fibre in its sailing uniform,   		 feedback@wool.com
thanks to a partnership with AWI’s subsidiary
The Woolmark Company – see page 16.                                                                                THE WOOLMARK COMPANY
                                                          wool.com/podcast
         This magazine is printed on PEFC                                                                          		   woolmark.com
         (Programme for the Endorsement of                twitter.com/woolinnovation
         Forest Certification) paper stock.
                                                                                                                        twitter.com/woolmark
                                                          facebook.com/AustralianWoolInnovation
                                                                                                                        facebook.com/thewoolmarkcompany
           Hear Beyond the Bale                           youtube.com/AWIWoolProduction
           editor Richard Smith talk                                                                                    youtube.com/thewoolmarkcompany
           about the evolution of                         Instagram.com/AustralianWool
           this flagship magazine                                                                                       Instagram.com/thewoolmarkcompany
in Episode 155 of AWI’s The Yarn                  BtB
                                                            View Beyond the Bale online at
podcast at www.wool.com/podcast                             http://beyondthebale.wool.com

                                                  AWI STATE-BASED GROWER NETWORKS
                                                  AWI-supported networks are present in each state.

                                                  •       Sheep Connect NSW                                        •    BESTWOOL/BESTLAMB (VIC)
                                                  •       Sheep Connect SA                                         •    The Sheep’s Back (WA)
                                                  •       Sheep Connect Tasmania                                   •    Leading Sheep (Qld)

                                                  Find your grower network at www.wool.com/networks or call the AWI Helpline on 1800 070 099.

GD4114
Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
UPFRONT         3

GETTING ON WITH
BUSINESS                                                                                                             Stuart McCullough
                                                                                                                     Chief Executive Officer
                                                                                                                     Australian Wool Innovation

Throughout the global COVID-19 pandemic, AWI has continued to work
relentlessly for woolgrowers to ensure the sustainability of our industry
and profitability for your enterprises.

Retail still weak, but                             Merino wool’s suitability for trans-seasonal       and can vote for one or more levy rates in
                                                   womenswear in China.                               order of preference. An additional question
vaccines and China                                        Although the relatively buoyant             will be added to WoolPoll 2021; it will ask
provide optimism                                   consumption in the Chinese market is not           growers if they want a five-year WoolPoll
Since my previous report in Beyond the Bale        enough to make up for the current poor             cycle instead of the current three-year cycle.
three months ago, the COVID-19 pandemic            performance of western consumer markets,           Eligible levy payers will receive their voting
has continued to severely impact most              the bounce back in China does provide              papers in September. Further information
countries across the world, including large        optimism and confidence for coming retail          about WoolPoll 2021 will be in the June and
wool-consuming countries in the northern           seasons in other global markets, once the          September editions of Beyond the Bale.
hemisphere such as those in Europe and the         rollout of vaccines has reduced COVID-19
USA. The lockdowns and social distancing           infection levels and they are under control.       A better 2021
measures have continued to result in               Reflecting the situation in China, we              Without doubt, the economic fallout from
lower-than-normal consumption of apparel           anticipate an upsurge in demand in global          the global pandemic during the past 12
products (with China a notable exception).         markets once daily life returns to some form       months has been very tough for many
       Some apparel segments have been             of normality and consumers begin to indulge        industries including the wool industry. While
more resilient than others. While the suiting      in social gatherings once again.                   I have always been absolutely sure about
and formal attire sectors have continued                  In the trade space, given that it usually   the resilience of our industry, I am more
to be badly hit in many countries, the             takes more than 12 months for brands to            confident now than I was six months ago
knitwear, coats and outdoor/sports sectors         develop and roll out their apparel collections,    that there is light at the end of the tunnel
have been relatively robust. Higher levels of      COVID-19 has already somewhat disrupted            and a recovery is under way. Despite the
online purchasing continue to partly offset        the 2021/22 northern hemisphere autumn/            tough times, the EMI has begun to recover,
reductions in consumption at brick and             winter retail season, aside from in China.         increasing by more than 53% from a low
mortar stores.                                     However, we are hopeful that the level of          of 858ac at the beginning of September
       AWI’s marketing teams across the            wool buying by processors will be back to          to 1318ac in mid-February. It is now at its
world have continued to focus on (1) retailers     normal during the second half of this year,        highest level since March last year.
and brands that have proven and robust             for autumn/winter 2022/23 collections across              I strongly believe that the premium
digital retail platforms, (2) large volume, high   the entire northern hemisphere.                    and natural qualities of our fibre and the
consumption sectors, and (3) sectors that are             It is important to note that while much     relationships we have built along the supply
seeing a rise in demand, such as active wear.      attention at the moment is understandably          chain during the past decade ensure a
       In contrast to most nations, China’s        on our retail markets, our on-farm R&D             positive outlook for Australian wool, not
domestic consumption of wool apparel               and extension projects are largely run in          only as the industry recovers from the
products at retail has not only recovered but      Australia and have escaped the worst of the        economic effects of COVID-19, but in the
has increased compared to previous years.          fallout from the pandemic. They continue           longer term.
While this is mainly due to the clear recovery     to operate largely as normal, although we                 The 10-year strategy for Australian
of the Chinese economy, it is also due to          closely monitor their progress and budgets.        woolgrowers, Wool 2030, which was
two other reasons: firstly, the widespread                                                            developed following extensive consultation
renewal of uniforms for the Chinese public         WoolPoll 2021                                      (see pages 4-5), has been well received
service, and secondly, international travel        As we move into 2021, we enter a WoolPoll          amongst woolgrowers and along the supply
restrictions causing wealthy Chinese               year, a cornerstone of Australia’s wool            chain. The strategy’s underlying principle is
tourists to shift their consumption away           industry. It is that time when wool levy           sustainability: in the careful management
from markets like Paris and London to the          payers will be asked what percentage of            of woolgrowers’ animals and the land they
domestic market.                                   their wool income they would like to invest        occupy, and the wellbeing of woolgrowers
       Building on the success of AWI’s recent     in research, development and marketing for         and their customers – all of which are
online marketing campaign during China’s           their industry. Voting is scheduled to open on     essential for sustained profitability.
autumn (see page 7), our marketing team has        Monday 13 September and close on Friday 9                 I hope you have all been safe and
been working on a spring campaign, being           November. Eligible woolgrowers will be given       well during the start of 2021 and remain so
rolled out this month, to drive awareness for      up to five options of levy rate to support         throughout the year.
Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
4     UPFRONT

                                                                                      Wool 2030:
                                                                                      a long-term
                                                                                      strategy for
                                                                                        Australian
                                                                                     woolgrowers
                                                                              A 10-year strategy for Australian woolgrowers,
                                                                           Wool 2030, has been developed following extensive
                                                                             consultation. The strategy’s underlying principle
                                                                                is sustainability: in the careful management of
                                                                          woolgrowers’ animals and the land they occupy, and
    The Wool 2030 strategic plan, which was released in                 the wellbeing of woolgrowers and their customers, all
    December, is available at www.wool.com/2030.
                                                                             of which are essential for sustained profitability.

    T   he independent chairman of AWI’s
        Woolgrower Industry Consultation Panel
    (WICP), Lyndsey Douglas, says a deep desire
                                                                The plan has a focus on meeting
                                                          the needs of all woolgrowers in Australia’s
                                                          diverse wool industry.
                                                                                                                  The strategy has been well received by
                                                                                                           industry along the wool supply chain. In the
                                                                                                           Wool 2030 document’s forward, Chairman
    to meet the expectations of consumers                                                                  of Ermenegildo Zegna Group, Paolo Zegna,
    worldwide is reflected in the 10-year strategy        Addressing opportunities                         says it’s crucially important to consolidate
    document’s tagline – ‘the world’s premium             and risks                                        the Australian wool industry’s leading
    sustainable fibre’ – which was launched by            The Wool 2030 strategic plan describes how       position in terms of quality and quantity of
    the industry in December.                             the Australian wool industry faces a decade      wool produced.
           “The plan you see today addresses              of unparalleled opportunity: “Wool has many             “The whole wool supply chain has
    those issues the industry considers key               outstanding performance attributes as a          to move in the same direction. All growers
    to a prosperous future: driving demand,               textile fibre. Increasingly, consumers also      must follow the same path together with
    demographics, perception, profitability and           seek products with strong sustainability         their clients downstream, to all aim in
    people. It asks today’s growers to consider           credentials. Wool is the first choice for        reconfirming Australian wool as the best in
    the story of wool internationally in 2030             a sustainable fibre because it is natural,       the world.”
    and what the daily life of a woolgrower in            renewable, recyclable and biodegradable.”
    Australia might be in ten years’ time. What                  Wool 2030 explains that technology
                                                                                                           Plan development
    is also important is to identify efficiencies,        also offers great opportunities for wool         and consultation
    promote best practice, to always keep in mind         in the modern world. “More than ever             The development of a 10-year strategy for
    our buyers and customers,” Lyndsey said.              before, woolgrowers can converse with            Australian woolgrowers was one of the
                                                          their customers, both to understand what         recommendations of the 2018 review of
         “Woolgrowers are at the heart of                 different markets require, and to convey         performance of AWI by Ernst and Young.
                                                          the story of Australian wool production.                The resulting new strategic plan, Wool
           this 10-year strategic plan.”
                                                          A wide range of product specifications,          2030, was facilitated by AWI and overseen
          Lyndsey Douglas, WICP Chair                     including raising claims, can be transmitted     by AWI’s Woolgrower Consultation Group
                                                          with the physical product and price signals      (WCG), which comprises 29 production-
            “The Merino breed continues to be             conveyed to farm level. Technology also          based woolgrower group representatives
    a central focus, a point-of-difference in a           promises to solve some of the challenges of      from across Australia, ‘next generation’
    competitive global landscape. The plan has            wool production such as efficient harvesting     representatives invited by each WCG
    an ambitious national flock growth target,            and management of pests and disease.             member, as well as Lyndsey Douglas and
    and retention of the Merino ewe base at or            Advances in genetics offer even further          a representative of the Department of
    above its current proportion is crucial to the        improvement in Australian sheep and the          Agriculture, Water and the Environment.
    industry’s strength in 2030.                          wool they produce.”                                     There was wide consultation during
            “We know that positioning wool as                    However, Wool 2030 says there are also    the development of the plan. Initially, a
    a rewarding, profitable land-use choice to            significant strategic risks to the industry:     series of five discussion papers on key
    the next generation landholder is core to             “In the late 20th Century, key wool industry     topics were prepared to inform debate
    meeting our growth targets.”                          risks were largely concerned with technical      by the WCG and the next generation
            The overall target of the strategic plan      and commercial attributes of the fibre –         representatives. Following WCG webinars,
    is for the Australian wool industry, by 2030,         price, production, specifications, processing    small-group consultations were undertaken
    to have grown in value by 2.5% annually               and product performance. Today, those            with brokers, buyers, processors, state
    from 2019/20. This growth will come from              same industry risks remain but have been         farming organisations, AWEX and AWTA.
    an increase in value per head of sheep of             added to by what are best described as ‘social   An industry online survey was also run
    15% and an increase in flock size from 67 to          licence’ risks – animal welfare, environmental   for five weeks which attracted more than
    75 million, with an increased proportion of           sustainability (regeneration), emissions         850 responses.
    Merinos in the ewe flock.                             profile and so on.”
Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
UPFRONT         5

                              Vision and targets of the Wool 2030 strategy

                                                              Wool
                                                              2030

       Pillar 1                    Pillar 2                    Pillar 3                       Pillar 4                 Pillar 5
   CARING FOR OUR                MARKETING                 COMMUNICATING                TRANSFORMING                 FOSTERING A
  ANIMALS AND THE             THE WORLD’S MOST                WITH OUR                 OUR PRODUCTION             PROSPEROUS WOOL-
    ENVIRONMENT                DESIRABLE FIBRE               CUSTOMERS                SYSTEMS THROUGH            GROWING COMMUNITY
                                                                                          INNOVATION

Vision: In 2030, wool        Vision: In 2030, the       Vision: In 2030, growers,    Vision: In 2030, wool      Vision: In 2030, the wool-
is one of Australia’s        industry has renewed       consumers and                production systems         growing community in
most trusted industries,     its relationship with      industry participants        employ a wide              Australia is cohesive,
renowned for its             consumers following        in-between are               range of integrated        collaborative and
stewardship of the           the COVID-19 pandemic.     seamlessly exchanging        technologies that          committed, speaking
people, animals and          Consumers understand       data on product              make wool-growing          with one voice.
environment in its           that Australian wool       attributes (including        less labour-intensive,     Woolgrowers are
care. As a textile           delivers comfort, boosts   provenance), physical        more efficient and         skilled professionals
fibre, Australian            health and positively      movements and price          more appealing to a        who understand their
wool is recognised           benefits animals and       signals, enabling            younger generation.        markets and manage
internationally for its      the environment.           growers to meet market       Woolgrowers are            complex production
sustainability standards,                               requirements and             highly skilled             systems. Young people
which are underpinned                                   buyers to readily obtain     managers of sheep,         are enthusiastic new
by rigorous certification.                              the wools they seek.         pastures and data.         entrants.
Targets:                     Targets:                   Targets:                     Targets:                   Targets:
• Growers have the           • New wool products        • Australian                 • Lamb weaning             • Staff and contractors
  confidence and tools         are developed              woolgrowers                  rates increase by 5        feel valued by the
  to manage flystrike          to meet evolving           understand the               percentage points          industry
  without mulesing             consumer needs             market(s) they serve       • Genetic gain is 2%       • The Australian wool
• Australian wool            • Australian wool          • 95% of Australian            per annum                  industry is seen to be
  production is moving         attracts a price           wool is sold with a        • Cost of harvesting         united and cohesive
  towards carbon               premium over               completed National           reduces by 3% per        • Wool-growing
  neutrality                   equivalent wools           Wool Declaration             annum in real terms.       is perceived as
• More than 50% of             from other countries.      or equivalent by                                        a satisfying and
  wool is sold under a                                    June 2022.                                              profitable pursuit.
  quality certification
  scheme
• Woolgrowers are
  earning income from
  ecosystem services,
  including for carbon
  mitigation.

Putting the plan                               the implementation for Wool 2030 extends        More information:
                                               beyond AWI to many other organisations          Download the 36-page Wool 2030 strategic
into action                                    and individuals across the Australian           plan at www.wool.com/2030
The plan has deliberately been designed as a   wool industry.
high-level, aspirational statement of intent         Oversight of the plan will be                         Hear Chair of the Wool
and strategy for Australian woolgrowers.       provided by a Wool 2030 Steering Group                      Industry Consultation Panel,
      AWI will assist in the coordination      comprising an independent chair and                         Lyndsay Douglas, talk
and implementation of the plan; the Wool       industry representatives. The Steering                      through the 10-year plan in
2030 plan will be a key reference point in     Group will publish a brief, biennial summary    Episode 157 of AWI’s The Yarn podcast,
the development of AWI’s own three-year        of progress against targets, starting in        available at www.wool.com/podcast.
strategic plans. However, responsibility for   December 2022.
Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
6     UPFRONT

    Review of Performance recommendations
    AWI’s progress of implementation
    As part of AWI’s three-year business cycle, an independent       THEME IMPLEMENTATION PROGRESS
    review of performance (ROP) of AWI is routinely undertaken

                                                                                                                         100%*
    to assess the company’s performance. The latest ROP was             CONSTITUTION
    undertaken by Ernst & Young (EY) for the period 2015-2018.          24 out of 24 recommendations complete.
    EY’s report, which was published in July 2018, included
    82 recommendations.
                                                                                                                         99.57%*
                                                                        GOVERNANCE
    In September 2018, AWI launched its ROP Implementation              22 out of 23 recommendations complete.
    Portal at rop.wool.com to provide detailed and up to date

                                                                                                                         100%*
    information to woolgrowers about the progress made by AWI           MONITORING EVALUATION
    in implementing the 82 recommendations. Displayed right is          & REPORTING
    a summary of the overall progress, and the progress across          16 out of 16 recommendations complete.
    each of the seven themes of the recommendations.

                                                                                                                         100%*
                                                                        COLLABORATION
    Further information is available at rop.wool.com                    3 out of 3 recommendations complete.

99.45%                                                                                                                   98.57%*
                                                                        PEOPLE & CULTURE
                                                                        6 out of 7 recommendations complete.

    OVERALL
                                                                                                                         95%*
                                        AWI POSITION                    CONSULTATION
    IMPLEMENTATION
                                            Agree/ Industry             4 out of 5 recommendations complete.
    PROGRESS                                agree (81)
                                            For Shareholder

                                                                                                                         100%*
                                            Consideration (1)           ROP RECOMMENDATIONS
                                                                        & IMPLEMENTATION
                                                                        4 out of 4 recommendations complete.
                                                                      * Percentage figure is calculated on the cumulative completion rate within each theme.
                                                                        Remaining recommendations at various completion stages.
                                                                        To view individual recommendation progress rates, visit rop.wool.com

    Wool face masks
    With hundreds of millions of people across the world now wearing face masks every day, wool face
    masks offer a protective covering and a natural alternative to single use synthetic face masks.

    Benefits of                                       disposable synthetic masks, wool is a 100%                   Both are comfortable to wear thanks
                                                      biodegradable fibre and will decompose                to the absence of seams and breathable
    wool face masks                                   when they are eventually disposed of.                 materials that decrease the accumulation
                                                              Many brands across the world,                 of humidity inside. The masks are made
    • Soft on skin – superfine Merino
                                                      including Australia, have produced face               in Italy and are being promoted for
      wool has superior softness and
                                                      masks that incorporate some or 100% wool.             purchase across Europe at www.iffm.it/en/
      proven skin benefits when worn
                                                      The Woolmark website features 25 different            home-page-suedwollegroup.
      next-to-skin.
                                                      wool face masks. Head to www.woolmark.
                                                      com/facemasks to view the facemasks and               More information:
    • Breathable and moisture regulating
                                                      how to purchase them.                                 www.woolmark.com/facemasks
      – wool acts like a second skin,
                                                              One of AWI’s supply chain
      keeping your skin comfortable
                                                      partners in Europe, Südwolle Group, has
                                                                                                            These wool blend masks from AWI’s supply
                                                      recently launched two new face mask                   chain partner, Südwolle Group, help wearers
    • Reusable – wool face masks can
                                                      designs in a multi-fibre blend                        look cool as well as feel cool.
      be washed and re-used.
                                                      containing Merino wool. They are
                                                      reusable, washable and made for

    T  he continuing global coronavirus
       pandemic means that wearing face
    masks continues to be prudent, if not
                                                      daily use.
                                                              The seamless knit
                                                      Merino Mask is soft and
    compulsory, for a majority of people across       breathable with elastic
    the world including Australia.                    laces and a metal nose
           Face masks made with Merino wool           piece whilst the Merino
    provide the wearer with a reusable mask           Filter Mask offers more
    that is soft and comfortable, breathable,         than 95% Bacterial
    washable and a natural alternative to             Filtration Efficiency
    synthetic face masks. They can be worn            thanks to the replaceable
    again and again, provided they are washed         filter inside with the
    correctly after each use. And unlike,             combined layering system.
Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
OFF    7
                                                                                                                FARM

Project updates:
Results in numbers
China TMALL consumer campaign
                   Capitalising on the immense strength of online
                   retailing in China, AWI collaborated with China’s
                                                                           581       million
                                                                           social media impressions
                   most influential business-to-consumer e-commerce
                   platform, TMALL, to launch a perfectly timed
                   promotion of Australian Merino wool.
                                                                           300          million
                                                                           page views on TMALL’s online Wool Pavilion
                          The campaign, from 21 September through to 4
                   November, aimed to educate digitally savvy Chinese
                   millennials about the superiority of Merino wool,
                   while driving purchase intent through digital and
                                                                           16    million
                                                                           campaign video views
                   social platforms for the Merino wool products of 100
                   premium Chinese and international brands.
                                                                           353,000
                                                                           Woolmark-certified garments
                   More information:
                   Page 5 of the December edition of Beyond the Bale
                                                                           60%
                                                                           of audience now more likely to buy Merino

Vivobarefoot natural footwear range
                   With support from AWI, leading global barefoot
                   footwear company Vivobarefoot developed a new
                                                                           420,000+
                                                                           emails sent by Vivibarefoot that
                   natural footwear range that incorporates Merino         featured Merino products
                   wool. The product development and collaboration
                   between Vivobarefoot and AWI is part of the in-kind
                   service that AWI offers Woolmark licensees and
                                                                           32      million
                                                                           social media impressions
                   involved no financial outlay by AWI.
                         Vivobarefoot launched in September its new
                   ‘natural’ range of footwear that incorporates Merino
                   wool as its key fibre, A digital marketing campaign
                                                                           56%
                                                                           of website wool landing page
                   ran for three weeks from 23 September. Moving           visitors were new users
                   forward, wool will be adopted as a core material
                                                                           Units of Merino shoes at retail
                   across all Vivobarefoot’s products and AWI is working
                                                                           in next collection to
                   with the brand on its next project.

                   More information:
                                                                           TRIPLE
                   www.vivobarefoot.com/woolmark
                   Page 12 of the December edition of Beyond the Bale

Move in Merino challenge on
                   From 2 to 29 November, AWI ran a community
                   engagement initiative in conjunction with Strava,
                                                                              225,000+
                                                                              total participants
                   the exercise-focused social networking platform
                   especially popular with runners and cyclists. The
                   ‘Move in Merino Challenge’ on Strava encouraged
                                                                              5     million
                                                                              total active hours
                   consumers to exercise and commute wearing Merino
                   wool, driving sales of brand partners’ products and
                   creating a community of active-minded Merino wool
                   ambassadors.
                                                                              42        million
                                                                              total miles covered
                         Participants were challenged to undertaken
                   20 hours of activity during the month, which once
                   completed enabled them to unlock access to exclusive
                                                                              5,500+
                                                                              new Woolmark Strava club members
                   discount codes from some of AWI’s brand partners
                   including ashmei, Vivobarefoot, Tracksmith and Iffley
                   Road, thereby encouraging consumers to purchase
                   and exercise in Merino wool products.
                                                                              18     1
                                                                                      /2 million
                                                                              total website impressions

                   More information:
                   www.strava.com/challenges/Move-in-Merino
                   Page 9 of the December edition of Beyond the Bale
Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
8     OFF
      FARM

Fashion’s sustainability
focus – the new normal
                                                                                                       Key points
                                                                                                       • In response to significant
                                                                                                         pressure from global consumers
                                                                                                         and governments, brands
                                                                                                         throughout the fashion industry
                                                                                                         are putting real effort into
                                                                                                         improving the environmental and
                                                                                                         social impacts of their products.

                                                                                                       • Australian wool has a great story
                                                                                                         to tell, and the wool industry is on
                                                                                                         the front foot in evidencing and
                                                                                                         promoting the fibre’s credentials.

                                                                                                       • Australian woolgrowers should
                                                                                                         continue to ensure that their
                                                                                                         on-farm practices align with
                                                                                                         the sustainability expectations
                                                                                                         of consumers.
    During the past couple of years, the topic of sustainability                                       • ‘Regenerative agriculture’ is on
    has very much moved from the fringe of the fashion industry                                          the radar of the global fashion
    to the mainstream. The issue is here to stay – and fashion                                           industry and is receiving a
    brands are increasingly examining the environmental and                                              positive reception.
    social impacts of where they source their fibre and fabric.

    A   nyone working in fashion and textiles
        will tell you that ‘sustainability’ has not
    only become the hot topic for the industry
                                                      thereby ensure continued demand for
                                                      wool in global markets. Indeed, the more
                                                      proactive brands are seeking evidence
                                                                                                    sentiment on matters of sustainability. More
                                                                                                    than ever, customers want to be confident
                                                                                                    that the fibre and fabric they purchase has
    (aside from COVID), but that the topic is now     that woolgrowers are actively improving       been produced responsibly.
    firmly embedded in the industry. Although         (or regenerating) the land, rather than             According to the latest Pulse of
    (and perhaps because) fast fashion is still       just sustaining or maintaining the status     Fashion report (Global Fashion Agenda,
    dominant in the wider industry, there has         quo. This is not about income from carbon     Boston Consulting Group and Sustainable
    been a real focus by many brands to discuss,      credits; it goes beyond that.”                Apparel Coalition), 75% of consumers
    address and improve the environmental                    Furthermore, rather than simply        surveyed (in China, US, UK, France, Brazil)
    and social impacts of their sourcing,             working to maintain current demand and        view sustainability as extremely or very
    manufacturing and distribution.                   prices for Australian wool, the embracing     important. Furthermore, 38% of consumers
           Take a look at the websites and            of sustainability by brands provides the      report actively switching from their
    marketing collateral of the brands that the       Australian wool industry with a massive       preferred brand to another because it
    Australian wool industry is working with          opportunity to capture further demand         credibly stands for positive environmental
    or targeting, and you will more than likely       and increase the price of Australian          and/or social practices.
    see the brand showcasing its eco-credentials      wool. Woolgrowers themselves can
    and making a public commitment to                 use communication platforms (such as                 “Most consumers include
    sustainability.                                   WoolQ – see page 61) to tell their story of     sustainability considerations in their
           “Sustainability and natural resource       continuous improvement and connect with
                                                                                                         decision-making framework.”
    management are of course not new to               customers. Premiums will come to those
    Australian woolgrowers. For generations,          woolgrowers who can market their eco and              Pulse of Fashion report
    Australian woolgrowers have managed               sustainability credentials.
    their rural businesses effectively while                                                              Consumers are becoming attuned to
    also undertaking initiatives to protect the       Consumer and                                  greenwashing and want brands to make
    natural environment,” said AWI CEO Stuart         regulatory pressure                           genuine change. The State of Fashion
    McCullough.                                                                                     report (BOF and McKinsey & Co) states
           “However, evidence of sustainable          With issues such as climate change and        that nine out of ten Gen Z consumers
    wool production is becoming critical              plastic pollution now rarely out of the       believe companies have a responsibility to
    to meeting the needs of increasingly              mainstream news, there has recently been      address environmental and social issues.
    environmentally-aware customers, and              a considerable shift in global consumer       The report states: “Fashion players need
Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
OFF        9
                                                                                                                                          FARM

                                                  Fashion Pact’s launch in 2019, and include          tout themselves as being sustainable and
                                                  companies such as Adidas, Armani, Burberry,         which have been receiving a lot of attention.
                                                  Ermenegildo Zegna, Gap, Karl Lagerfeld,                    For its part, AWI continues to
                                                  Kering, Nike, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Salvatore        undertake and publish comprehensive
                                                  Ferragamo and Selfridges. 80% of members            scientific evidence of wool’s true
                                                  have reported that joining the Fashion Pact         environmental credentials (which you will
                                                  triggered an acceleration of the sustainability     have read about in previous editions of
                                                  journey within their organisations.                 Beyond the Bale). This helps enable AWI’s
                                                                                                      marketing arm The Woolmark Company and
                                                     “Now is the moment for fashion to                the wool industry to market Australian wool
                                                   commence a new era of sustainability.”             to the fashion and textile trade, consumers
                                                                                                      and legislative policy-makers as the ‘planet-
                                                    Fashion Pact, Progress Report 2020
                                                                                                      friendly’ fibre of choice.
                                                                                                             “It is vital that the whole Australian
                                                         Another body driven by the fashion
                                                                                                      wool industry, including woolgrowers,
                                                  industry is the Global Fashion Agenda that
                                                                                                      understand the predominance of
                                                  advocates for policy changes and supportive
                                                                                                      sustainability issues for its downstream
                                                  measures that reinforce sustainability
                                                                                                      customers – and act on it. Tackling these
                                                  targets and establish circular systems.
                                                                                                      issues on-farm (and along the supply
                                                  Ninety brands and retailers, representing
                                                                                                      chain) and marketing evidence of progress
                                                  about an eighth of the global fashion
                                                                                                      are critical to not just securing a ‘clean,
                                                  industry by sales volume have signed
                                                                                                      green’ reputation for the Australian wool
                                                  the Global Fashion Agenda’s current 2020
                                                                                                      industry and maintaining ‘social licence’,
                                                  Commitment for a Circular Fashion System.
                                                                                                      but also grasping new opportunities for
                                                         Brands are not only adopting
                                                                                                      increasing demand and higher premiums for
                                                  sustainability initiatives, they are also
                                                                                                      Australian wool,” said Stuart McCullough.
                                                  increasingly disclosing their practices publicly.
                                                  The not-for-profit global movement Fashion
                                                  Revolution publishes a Fashion Transparency             “Consumer behaviour, especially
                                                  Index annually that ranks 250 of the world’s             among the younger generation,
                                                  largest fashion brands and retailers according         calls for more and more attention to
                                                  to how much they disclose about their
                                                                                                       sustainability and therefore to breeding
                                                  environmental and social policies, practices
                                                  and impacts. The fifth Index (2020) reports             and manufacturing methods that
                                                  that 42% publish a time-bound, measurable             protect animals and the environment.
                                                  ‘sustainable materials’ strategy while 36%             Consumers are also willing to pay a
                                                  disclose progress on achieving sustainable
                                                                                                       higher price if the values underpinning
                                                  material targets (up from 29% in 2019).
to swap platitudes and promotional noise          Furthermore, 32% publish supplier policies               production of the raw materials
for meaningful action and regulatory              on ‘biodiversity and conservation’ and 57%                are compatible in this regard.”
compliance while facing up to consumer            disclose procedures that address this topic.                  Paolo Zegna, Chairman
demand for transformational change.”              Participation in the Fashion Transparency
                                                                                                            of Ermenegildo Zegna Group
       Brands must respond not only to            Index is influencing brands to disclose more
pressure from consumers but also from             environmental and social information.
governments and regulatory authorities.                  Brands are increasingly wanting to                  Many Australian woolgrowers, of
For instance, the European Union is now           source fibre through certification schemes          course, already undertake initiatives to
considering policy to have environmental          because it reduces their risk of exposure           protect, preserve and improve the natural
labelling on consumer products, including         to supply chain issues and allows them to           resources on their properties for future
apparel products, as soon as 2022, in an effort   confidently be able to continue using the fibre     generations and are constantly adapting
to guide consumers towards choosing the           knowing that they have some protection.             their animal husbandry to reflect consumer
most sustainable products.                                                                            demands. Possessing a natural affinity with
                                                  An opportunity                                      the land, these farmers are rightly proud of
Brands take                                       and a threat                                        ensuring their innovative farming practices
                                                                                                      are applied in harmony with the Australian
sustainability seriously                                                                              landscape and environment. But more can
                                                  This increasing demand for sustainably
Fashion brands, especially luxury fashion         produced fibres and fabrics is both an              always be done.
brands, are increasingly responding to            opportunity and a threat to the Australian                 The Australian wool industry recently
these consumer and regulatory pressures           wool industry. On the one hand, and in stark        developed a 10-year plan (see page 4) and it
for increased sustainability. It is not only      contrast to synthetic man-made fibres, wool         is entirely appropriate that sustainability
small, niche brands that are embracing a          is a natural, renewable and biodegradable           is the underlying principle of the plan,
commitment to sustainability, it is the larger    fibre and does not contribute to microplastic       specifically that Australian wool be regarded
brands too.                                       pollution. So wool is therefore well placed to      as the world’s premium sustainable fibre.
       For example, a global coalition of         take advantage of the increasing focus for          Additionally, the Australian sheep meat and
companies in the fashion and textile industry     more earth-friendly products.                       wool industry have together been working to
along with suppliers and distributors,                   On the other hand, animal welfare,           develop a Sheep Sustainability Framework
that together represent more than 200             emissions from agriculture, chemical                (scheduled for release next month) that will
brands and a third of the fashion industry,       usage throughout the wool supply chain              help enable the industry to demonstrate
are signatories to the Fashion Pact. This         and some processing treatments are a                its sustainable practices, identify areas
is a CEO-led commitment to a common               cause of concern for the fashion industry.          of production for improvement, and
core of key environmental goals in three          Furthermore, there is fresh competition             better communicate with trade customers
areas: mitigating climate change, restoring       from new fibres on the market, such as              and consumers.
biodiversity and protecting the oceans. The       TENCEL™ (cellulose fibre made from wood
number of signatories has doubled since the       pulp) and ECONYL® (recycled nylon), that                               CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE
Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
10   OFF
     FARM

 CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE                      Woolmark Prize winner] Richard Malone – are               Global Luxury group Kering, which
                                                   … peppering words like ‘soil health’ and ‘carbon   owns brands including Gucci and Saint

 What about                                        sequestration’ into fashion week chats.”
                                                          The Vogue article continues: “Maybe
                                                                                                      Laurent, is collaborating with The Savory
                                                                                                      Institute’s Land to Market™ program to

 regenerative                                      fashion is rallying around regenerative
                                                   ag, as it’s come to be known because it’s
                                                                                                      advocate verified regenerative sourcing
                                                                                                      solutions and expand the regenerative

 agriculture?                                      so different from the other sustainability
                                                   trends and buzzwords we’ve encountered. It
                                                   has virtually no downsides or compromises,
                                                                                                      agriculture framework in fashion’s global
                                                                                                      supply chains.
                                                                                                             Furthermore, Kering and Conservation
 There is growing awareness                        and it isn’t just ‘less bad’ than conventional     International have created a €5 million
                                                   farming. It’s categorically good, and it’s         (AU$7.9 million) Regenerative Fund for Nature
 within the fashion industry                       good for every living thing involved: the          which over the next five years will support
 of ‘regenerative agriculture’                     farmers, the plants, the animals, the soil, the    promising and innovative regenerative
 and brands are starting to                        micro-organisms in the soil, and, eventually,      agriculture projects across the world. As the
 take a serious look at it.                        the consumer.”                                     fund grows, it will provide proof of concept
                                                                                                      for further investments in regenerative
                                                      “Regenerative agriculture harbors               agriculture. Australian woolgrowers are

 A   lthough there are several Australian
     woolgrowers who are recognised
 pioneers in regenerative agriculture and
                                                     considerable promise for the future.”
                                                                 LVMH Group
                                                                                                      eligible to apply; applications will be accepted
                                                                                                      annually, between 28 January and 30 April
                                                                                                      – see www.conservation.org/projects/
 there is growing interest in it, and although                                                        regenerative-fund-for-nature for details.
 Australian woolgrowers take good care                     Is regenerative agriculture just a shiny
 of the land on their properties, there is         new buzzword in the fashion industry’s               “Regenerative agriculture is a multi-
 considered to be only a relativity small          sustainability conversation or are brands
 percentage of Australian woolgrowers                                                                     benefit solution which supports
                                                   taking action? It is a bit early to know for
 that would regard themselves as “doing            sure – remember, even a brand’s regular               Kering’s sustainability ambitions to
 regenerative agriculture”.                        product development and manufacture                  mitigate our environmental impacts
        However, in a recent AWI survey            usually takes more than 12 months before                and deliver positive outcomes
 (May 2020) of more than 1,000 woolgrowers,        it is delivered to retailers. However, there
 89% of growers reported using more than                                                                      along our supply chain.”
                                                   are companies that have already launched
 one practice to encourage soil health                                                                          Marie-Claire Daveu,
 (which is the key aspect of regenerative                                                                Chief Sustainability Officer, Kering
 agriculture). Specifically, 83% preserve
 groundcover, 74% undertake soil
                                                                                                             In January, Gucci presented its new
 tests, 72% undertake rotation
                                                                                                      Natural Climate Solutions Portfolio in
 grazing, 65% no-till cropping
                                                                                                        which it says it will “champion regenerative
 and 50% sow deep rooted
                                                                                                         agriculture”. As the first step in a broader,
 perennials.
                                                                                                          long-term strategy for regenerative
        So perhaps regenerative
                                                                                                            agriculture, Gucci said it is identifying
 agricultural practices are
                                                                                                             and scaling up regenerative
 more prevalent than has been
                                                                                                              agriculture projects within its
 supposed. And once those
                                                                                                               sourcing regions, with the aim to
 woolgrowers note that their
                                                                                                                source regenerative raw materials
 customers in the fashion
                                                                                                                 (including wool) for its collections.
 industry are talking positively
                                                                                                                Going beyond its own supply chain,
 about regenerative agriculture,
                                                                                                                Gucci is also incentivising farmers
 then they might be prepared to
                                                                                                               to switch to regenerative agriculture
 use that terminology as an aid to
                                                                                                              through ‘carbon farming’.
 the marketing of their fibre.
                                                                                                                    Last month, global brands
 So, is the global                                                                                    Icebreaker, Allbirds and Smartwool
                                                                                                      announced a partnership with The New
 fashion industry aware of                         products sourced from properties on which          Zealand Merino Company on a new
 regenerative agriculture?                         regenerative agriculture is practiced – and        regenerative wool supply platform, ZQRX,
 Yes. Just as regenerative agriculture as          those products are being marketed as such.         which aims to help woolgrowers to better
 a term has been getting more and more                   These companies include large brands         understand their environmental footprint
 attention from farmers in the past few years,     such as outdoor apparel brand The North            and move to regenerative agriculture
 the fashion industry has also started taking      Face, which has a ‘Cali Wool Collection’ made      practices.
 notice of the practice, and it is receiving a     using wool that it says is “produced through              It appears that one of the major
 positive reception.                               regenerative agriculture methods”, and US          reasons why brands are attracted to
        “Sourcing from regenerative                womenswear brand Eileen Fisher which uses          regenerative agriculture is so that they can
 agricultural systems is the future for            wool from farmers that it says “regenerate         reduce the carbon footprint of their supply
 fashion,” said Marco Bizzarri, president and      depleted grasslands through holistic               chain through carbon sequestration (to
 CEO of Italian luxury brand Gucci, in an          farming methods”.                                  combat climate change). The 2020 Fashion
 interview in November with Women’s Wear                 UK brand Burberry has created                Transparency Index reports that 16% of
 Daily, the fashion industry trade journal         a ‘Regeneration Fund’ to implement                 brands already publish annual carbon
 sometimes called ‘the bible of fashion’.          regenerative agriculture practices with            emissions produced within their supply
        Meanwhile that other ‘bible of fashion’,   Australian woolgrowers within its own              chains, however it anticipates that there
 for style conscious consumers, Vogue, in          supply chain. According to Burberry, the           will be more disclosure on brands’ efforts to
 October stated: “Everyone’s talking about         project works at farm level to improve             reduce carbon emissions this year as more
 regenerative agriculture. Brands large and        carbon capture in soils, improve watershed         brands join the Fashion Pact and the UN
 small – from Allbirds and Patagonia to            and soil health, reduce dryland salinity and       Fashion Industry Charter.
 Maggie Marilyn and [last year’s International     promote biodiverse habitats.                                               PHOTO: MediaProduction
OFF         11
                                                                                                                                              FARM

                                                               Technology to
                                                           trace Aussie wool
                                                             to final product
                                                         From sheep to shop: AWI and Everledger are developing a system to trace the source and journey
                                                                                 of Australian wool through to the end products. PHOTO (right): Nastasic

                                                  further from its point of origin. This will         and effectively from other wools and other
AWI and pioneering                                create new sources of value for woolgrowers,        fibres in the global market.
technology company                                manufacturers and retailers, as well as                     “AWI and our stakeholders have been
Everledger are collaborating                      transparency for end consumers.                     monitoring the rapid escalation in emphasis
on a pilot project to track                             AWI is therefore working to promote           being placed on provenance, corporate social
                                                  the traceability of global supply chains            responsibility, and the perennial concerns
selected Australian wools                         so that all stakeholders and consumers              regarding supply chain efficiency and
as they move along the                            understand the full value of a product made         biosecurity,” John said.
supply chain from farm                            from Australian wool.                                       “Traceability and transparency are
through to finished product,                                                                          critical for safeguarding the global reputation
                                                                                                      of Australian wool. This partnership with
which ultimately will enable                           “Traceability and transparency
                                                                                                      Everledger will help us to ease the flow of
retailers and end consumers                        are critical for safeguarding the global
                                                                                                      information up and down the supply chain
to easily check that the                               reputation of Australian wool.”                to all parties, and so communicate wool’s
product is made from world-                                John Roberts, AWI COO                      benefits to a wider audience. Ultimately, this
                                                                                                      is good news for our farmers and related
renowned Australian wool.                               AWI has joined up with digital                small businesses that rely on Australia’s
                                                  transparency company Everledger to build            remarkable sheep to make a living.

A   ustralian woolgrowers have made great
    advancements in wool production during
the past two hundred years, and today
                                                  and host an Electronic Chain of Custody
                                                  Tool (ECCT) on its platform (for proof of
                                                  concept) that, using ‘blockchain technology’,
                                                                                                              “The project findings from this pilot
                                                                                                      project will determine whether we will
                                                                                                      invest in a full platform or look to participate
they are justifiably proud of their tradition     aims to track and validate the exchange of          in an alternative.”
of excellence. Australia is well known for        ownership of selected wools as they move                    Founded in 2015, Everledger is
producing wool that is regarded as being the      along the supply chain from farm through            an award-winning global company
finest and softest wool produced anywhere         overseas processing to finished products.           headquartered in London.
– the country produces about 90% of the                 Different participants at each stage                  “We’re delighted to design and manage
world’s fine apparel wool.                        of the supply chain will be able to connect         a solution that will help AWI to deliver
       However, sharing the excellence and        through the Everledger platform. Recorded           a more transparent value chain,” said
provenance of this premium natural fibre with     evidence can be used to demonstrate                 Everledger CEO, Leanne Kemp. “By sharing
the end consumers of a product can be difficult   compliance, providing more confidence               provenance information securely – from
because the raw fibre goes through so many        on the authenticity and provenance of               farm to consumer – all participants can enjoy
hands and processes from farmgate before it       the product. Ultimately, a retailer or end          the benefits of traceability. AWI is taking
is ends up in a product available at retail.      consumer will have access to information            a lead for other traditional industries in
       Being in such a competitive industry       that allows them to evidence how the                Australia to follow.”
as fashion with so many other natural             original wool was sourced and processed
and synthetic fibres on the market, it is         throughout its journey.                                          Hear more about the initiative
important that Australian wool’s reputation             AWI Chief Operations Officer, John                         in Episode 164 of AWI’s
for quality, authenticity and low eco-            Roberts says an effective ECCT will enable                       The Yarn podcast at
footprint be actively protected as it travels     Australian wool to differentiate itself clearly                  www.wool.com/podcast.
12     OFF
       FARM

     Wool set to
     gain from push                                                                                                 FIBRE PRODUCTION

     towards a circular
                                                                                                       Every year, sheep produce a new fleece,
                                                                                                       making wool a completely renewable fibre
                                                                                                       source. Wool is grown in the simple mix

     economy
                                                                                                       of sunshine, water, grass and fresh air. In
                                                                                                       contrast, synthetic fibres are derived from
                                                                                                       non-renewable petrochemicals and fossil
                                                                                                       fuels, which when extracted de-sequester
                                                                                                       carbon stored millions of years ago.

     With the global fashion and textile industry under pressure
     from consumers and regulators to reduce its waste and
     pollution, there is a push for the supply chain to change                                                  GARMENT USE PHASE
     its method of production from a wasteful ‘linear’ model
                                                                                                       How often clothes are worn is the
     towards a sustainable ‘circular’ model. Wool has a unique                                         most influential factor in determining
     set of ‘circular’ features – such as being a renewable and                                        environmental impacts from clothing.
     biodegradable fibre, and suitable for reuse and recycling –                                       Wool garments are on average kept in use
     which should make the fibre more sought after by companies                                        for longer periods of time than garments
                                                                                                       made from other fibre types (and are very
     along the supply chain including brands and retailers.                                            suitable for repair if needed).

                                                                                                       In addition, consumers wash wool clothing

     W      hen looking at many of the
            environmental issues that today’s
     society is facing, it is becoming clear to many
                                                        fast fashion, there are growing regulatory
                                                        pressures, especially in the European
                                                        Union (EU) which is a key market for
                                                                                                       less frequently than other fibre types,
                                                                                                       saving water, energy and detergent
                                                                                                       associated with laundering.
     that the current ‘linear’ model of textile         Australian wool, to force the industry to
     production has reached its limits and is no        adopt the circular economy.                    Wool’s attributes are so highly valued that,
     longer working for people nor the planet. This            A comprehensive policy and              even after a garment has finished its long
     is why brands, manufacturers, regulators and       legislative framework to achieve               service life with one person, the fibre is
     NGOs see a solution in a different economic        circularity in the textile industry is being   still suitable to be kept in use via three
     model – the ‘circular’ economy.                    developed through the EU’s European            further ways:
             The circular economy is based on the       Green Deal and its Circular Economy
     principles of:                                     Action Plan. Addressing waste and              1st life extension – Reuse: Wool is the most
     • using renewable resources                        pollution in the textile industry is a key     reused fibre on the planet of the major
     • designing out waste and pollution                goal of the EU’s plans.                        apparel fibres, with wool garments often
     • keeping products and materials in use for               Adoption can be expected by EU          preferentially donated for extended life.
        a long time; and                                member states within two years. Other
     • regenerating natural systems.                    jurisdictions may well follow.                 2nd life extension – ‘Closed loop’ recycling:
             Many brands and designers are asking              The strategy aims to help the EU        This involves high-value wool garments
     themselves how they can shift into a circular      shift to an economy in which fashion and       deconstructed to enable new yarns to
     business model and create circular products.       textile products are designed to be more       be spun and new high-value garments
     The answer is wool.                                long-lasting, reusable and recyclable,         fabricated. Wool is the most recyclable fibre
             In stark contrast to synthetic             and encourage sustainable production.          on the planet of the major apparel fibres.
     fibres, wool is by nature a circular fibre         Furthermore, through the EU’s Extended
     (see opposite). In the Material Circularity        Producer Responsibility legislation,           3rd life extension – ‘Open loop’ recycling:
     Indicator by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation,       brands will soon be responsible for            This is essentially ‘down cycling’, in
     wool gets the highest score possible.              the entire life-cycle of their products        which wool products are pulled apart
             AWI supports the movement towards          (production and post-retail) including         and fabricated into cheaper non-
     a more circular fashion industry to better         take-back, recycling and final disposal.       woven products for insulation, padding,
     compete with synthetics.                                  Brands must start designing for         interiors etc.
             Through the company’s marketing            circularity.
     arm, The Woolmark Company, AWI is                         The wool industry is unique in
     increasingly championing and educating             having a package of circular features that
     brands and the supply chain about wool’s           align and show excellent fit with the EU’s
                                                                                                                GARMENT DISPOSAL
     innate circular attributes. It is vital that The   European Green Deal principles.
     Woolmark Company continues to provide                     AWI is engaged at an EU level,          Wool is made of a 100% natural
     the scientific evidence and a pathway for          drawing on its extensive research in this      biodegradable protein, similar to that
     companies to incorporate wool into their           space and working with the International       found in human hair. When a wool product
     products to lighten their eco-footprint and        Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO), to           reaches its end-of-life and is disposed of,
     demonstrate an alignment to circularity.           champion wool throughout the EU’s              the wool fibre readily decomposes in soil,
                                                        policy and legislative development             slowly releasing valuable nutrients and
     Regulatory pressure                                process. AWI is also engaging with             carbon back into the earth, acting like a
     in the EU                                          its brand and supply chain partners            fertiliser. In contrast, synthetic fibres do
     Aside from a self-initiated push by the            to raise awareness of the regulatory           not biodegrade but instead accumulate in
     global fashion and textile industry towards        issues and share the company’s research        landfill and release microplastics.
     a circular economy and a slowing down of           and analysis.
OFF      13
                                                                                                  FARM

                       Wool fits into a sustainable circular model of
                  textile production that minimises waste and pollution

                                     FIBRE PRODUCTION
                                            RENEWABLE

                                                                 LOOP
                                                          G OPEN
                                                    CYCLIN
                                                  RE                                     PRODUCT
   PRODUCT                                         RECYCL
                                                         ING CLOSED LOO
   DISPOSAL
                                                                       P                 MANUFACTURE
                                                                                         SLOW FASHION,
BIODEGRADABLE
                                                                                         NOT FAST FASHION
                                                     REU
                                                        SE

                                      RE
                                           PA
                                             IR

             PRODUCT                                                          DISTRIBUTION
            USE PHASE                                                         & RETAIL
                                                                              SLOW FASHION,
       LONG PRODUCT LIFE
                                                                              NOT FAST FASHION

                  Synthetic fibres are more aligned with an unsustainable
                linear model of textile production with waste and pollution

      FIBRE           PRODUCT        DISTRIBUTION               PRODUCT          PRODUCT
   PRODUCTION       MANUFACTURE        & RETAIL                USE PHASE         DISPOSAL
  NON RENEWABLE       FAST FASHION    FAST FASHION               SHORT LIFE       LANDFILL

                                                                              MICRO PLASTICS
14     OFF
       FARM

                        Traceable wool from
                           farm to fashion
                      United States-based menswear brand Wool&Prince and its womenswear
                   sister-brand wool& now have a completely traceable Merino wool supply chain
                         that champions the natural fibre’s origin and heritage in Australia.

                                                                                                                  “As a family-owned organisation,
       Apparel from Wool&                                                                                  we take seriously the responsibility of
       and Wool&Prince
       made with Merino                                                                                    preserving the environment for future
       wool sourced from                                                                                   generations and to leave the land and its
       ‘Ashmore’ in South                                                                                  natural resources in a better state in which
       Australia.
                                                                                                           they were acquired,” said Keith McBride,
                                                                                                           Chairman of AJ & PA McBride Ltd.
                                                                                                                  “Our dedicated staff work hard to
                                                                                                           ensure that grazing techniques work in
                                                                                                           partnership with the natural environment.
                                                                                                           Every day they do simple things to improve
                                                                                                           their environmental sustainability, whether
                                                                                                           it be improving efficiency in energy usage,
                                                                                                           fencing off dams to increase biodiversity,
                                                                                                           introducing tree-planting programs for
                                                                                                           re-vegetation and animal welfare, or using
                                                                                                           different stocking strategies to improve soil
                                                                                                           health and groundcover.
                                                                                                                  “In the twenty-first century,

 W         ool&Prince was famously launched
           in 2013 when its founder, Mac Bishop,
     successfully wore his Merino wool shirt for
                                                            coastline, which has an annual production of
                                                            more than 800 Merino wool bales averaging
                                                            17.7 micron. Producing high quality Merino
                                                                                                           sustainability increasingly relies on new
                                                                                                           technologies and scientific advances and AJ
                                                                                                           & PA McBride is committed to participating
     100 straight days without washing or ironing,          wool, the McBride family utilises innovative   in research and collaborating with
     proving the easy-care and versatile nature             farming practices to manage their sheep        government agencies, research organisations
     of the fibre. From a single shirt product, the         and land. The farm is specifically focused     and other industry bodies that address
     brand’s range has expanded massively, but              on improving energy efficiencies, land         natural resource management issues and
     high-quality Merino wool is still at its heart.        conservation and biodiversity.                 promote sustainable agriculture.”
     In 2018, its womenswear sister-brand wool&                                                                   As well as being a profitable business
     was launched, again with Merino wool as the            Sustainable                                    and ensuring the long-term health of the
     brand’s foundation.                                    wool-growing                                   land, key to the company’s mission of
            Pieces across the two brands’                   AJ & PA McBride believes quality production    ensuring it is a good corporate citizen also
     collections now feature Merino wool                    is dependent on a healthy environment          includes it being an employer of choice (by
     from AJ & PA McBride whose family have                 and the company’s diverse activities are       providing staff with quality conditions
     been woolgrowers in South Australia for                managed with the aim of minimal impact         and facilities) and an active member of the
     six generations, and which celebrated its              on the environment.                            community (by supporting local towns,
     centenary last year – see opposite page.                                                              community events, community service and
            The traceable Merino wool has been                                                             agricultural education).
     sourced from ‘Ashmore’, located close
     to Kingston SE on the state’s south-east

     US brands Wool&Prince and Wool& now source their
     Merino wool from AJ & PA McBride Ltd’s ‘Ashmore’
     property in South Australia, where looking after the
     long-term health of the land is a priority.
You can also read