Monsters Mountains and - Val d'Hérens
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
EXPERIENCE: CARNAVAL IN EVOLÈNE EXPERIENCE: CARNAVAL IN EVOLÈNE Monsters and Mountains Every year in the run up to LENT, the Swiss village of EVOLÈNE celebrates the arrival of SPRING with a most UNUSUAL party WORDS: LARA DUNN 54 WIRED FOR ADVENTURE JAN | FEB 2021 WIRED FOR ADVENTURE JAN | FEB 2021 55
EXPERIENCE: CARNAVAL IN EVOLÈNE EXPERIENCE: CARNAVAL IN EVOLÈNE
I
’m surrounded by an intensely three-di-
mensional landscape of snowy peaks and
valleys. They stretch off into the distance
in every direction as far as the eye can
EVOLÈNE
see, all light and shade and crazy angles.
The bright mountain sunshine reflects
violently back up from the snow, making
me grateful for my sunglasses. The only
sounds I can hear are the wind soughing gently in the
nearby trees… and cowbells?
It’s the middle of winter. The precious cattle that Evolène, there’s a much more pagan feel to the whole
make Swiss cheese quite so delicious are all tucked up thing. Local history has it that these traditions have
warm in their sheds, eating the remnants of last sum- been active since the bronze age, the masked figures
mer’s grass. So, what’s the story with the cowbells? hastening winter away and welcoming the spring.
I’m starting to wonder if it’s an unusual variant of It gets distinctly cold here in the winter, and at one
tinnitus, caused by the altitude perhaps. time, the village would have been all but cut off from
Suddenly, a wave of nightmarish figures breaks the outside world, so it’s no surprise that such a tra-
over the crest of one of the nearby slopes, their out- dition gained a firm hold and endured even after the
fits a jagged contrast of modern skiwear mixed with arrival of Christianity.
animal hides and menacing wooden masks. These Those hairy, scary monsters may be roaming the
figures that wouldn’t look out of place in the pages mountains during the day, but at night, they patrol
of a medieval fairy tale are the Peluches, roaming the the streets of the village, swinging those clanging
mountains and the nearby village, swinging their cowbells and chasing unsuspecting souls. As with
cowbells to frighten away the evil spirits of winter. many traditional carnivals, anonymity is everything.
Yes, these are the good guys. The heavy wooden masks featuring grotesque crea-
tures or animal likenesses are hand carved in the
A CELEBRATION village using locally sourced wood and are handed
Evolène in the Val d’Hérens in Valais, Switzerland down through generations. Judging by the diminu-
feels a lot like the land that time forgot. Yes, there are tive height of some of the figures ambling about, it’s
several ski areas served by a network of chairlifts, clearly a family affair and showing no sign of dying
with the odd mountain restaurant dotted about on out any time soon.
the slopes, but just minutes away from the lift sta- Carnaval draws visitors from all over the Canton of
tions a blank canvas of mountains invites exploration Valais, mostly for the sheer spectacle of the Peluches
The Peluches are a physical manifestation of the at- as they go about the same important metaphysical
mosphere of this area, with its timber-framed build- tasks they have since the middle ages. As with many
ings and narrow cobbled streets, it feels anchored such celebrations, it’s also the party atmosphere
in the middle ages. Carnaval is when the past really that attracts the, albeit modest, crowds. The usually
comes home to roost though, and the Peluches (and sleepy streets are filled with live music and revelry.
everyone else) come out to play. This year, one of the acts is a huge brass band decked
The run-up to Lent is traditionally a time of cel- out in Day of the Dead make-up and costume, play-
ebration in many places across the world, but in ing contemporary favourites while revellers dance
and drink. Bars are packed with merrymakers, a few
wearing the traditional local costume of heavy woven
skirts and bodices.
In one bar, I’m offered schnapps ‘on tap’ from a
man in a wig. He’s dressed in that same embroidered
skirt and blouse, dispensing his drinks from a false
bosom — tots from teats or tipple from the nipple?
I politely decline, but his charms are proving pretty
popular with others. I duck out and head for a restau-
rant where fondue is the name of the game, served in
a bread receptacle rather than the traditional pot. A
bit of melted cheese will go a long way to soaking up
some of that Carnaval good cheer.
GOOD VS EVIL LEFT
Having already explored some of the ski areas, I’m The Peluches are the good
ready for some snowshoeing the next day. Heading guys, chasing away winter with
up into the quieter areas of the mountains, climbing their noisy cowbells and
steadily up through the trees, I’m reminded once welcoming in spring
again of the past. I am probably treading (inelegantly)
the same footsteps as the farmers have with their cat- RIGHT
tle for centuries, every spring. High spirits: even metaphysical
As I top out in a hanging valley above the Lac d’Ar- beings need a life sometimes
bey, the lake itself covered with an impenetrable
56 WIRED FOR ADVENTURE JAN | FEB 2021 WIRED FOR ADVENTURE JAN | FEB 2021 57
EXPERIENCE: CARNAVAL IN EVOLÈNE EXPERIENCE: CARNAVAL IN EVOLÈNE
layer of ice and snow, I’m entering the favourite
summer pastures of the local herds. Taller peaks
loom ahead of me, early shadows starting to sur-
round me as I follow the circular route back to
The heavy wooden
where I started. Signposted ski touring trails criss-
cross as I descend, for humans more super than I,
masks are hand
or perhaps just those who didn’t sample the local
schnapps last night.
carved in the village
Throughout my stay in Evolène I have encountered
the Peluches on numerous occasions, but it’s not un-
and handed down
til my final day in the village, the last Sunday before
Lent, that I finally meet their nemesis: The Empaillés.
through generations
These local folk wearing hessian sacks stuffed with
upwards of 20kg of straw, are the baddies to the Pe- In reality, spring is a way off yet. It won’t be until
luches goodies — the evil spirits of winter threaten- June that the cows are allowed out from their warm WHO’S WRITING?
ing the arrival of balmier months. sheds to once more climb up to the mountain pas- Lara has been travelling since
That final morning sees these volunteers gathering tures. Every June the local female Hérens cattle show birth, clocking up around 30
outside the village to be sewn into their overstuffed off their natural aggression as they make their way to countries so far, and has no
costumes. Soon, they are lurching along the streets the mountain pastures during the Inalpe, fighting for intention of stopping just yet.
to the village centre, followed by floats filled with the top spot of ‘queen’ of the herd. Something else She has been editor of Adven-
dance troupes and community groups, as well as that hasn’t changed for centuries. Reputedly, the an- ture Travel, Women’s Cycling
the obligatory confetti cannon. With the winter sun nual cow fights are almost as much of a crowd puller and France magazines as well
shining down, the poor Empaillés are soon overheat- as Carnaval. as writing for numerous travel,
ing in their insulating layers. A few refreshing beers I’m sad to leave Evolène with its curious blend of outdoor activity and adventure
donated by local people results in unruly piles of red- ancient and modern. But who am I kidding? Thanks publications over the years.
faced straw-stuffed figures, literally stacked against to these unique celebrations that are still very much What floats her boat most is
each other on the ground, since the costume makes alive and well, there’s far more ancient and spooky exploring unusual places on two
a normal sitting position physically impossible. It’s here than 21st Century. With its timber-framed wheels, two feet, or bobbing
safe to say they’ve vanquished themselves, without houses and turn of the (20th) Century hotel nestled about in the water.
the need for intervention by the Peluches. along the main (only) street, Evolène is a picture-per- Follow her on Instagram at
The finale of the celebrations is the burning of one fect example of traditional Switzerland, and I hope I @lara.dunn and on Twitter at
of the Empaillés. No reassurance is given when I ask remains that way for a long time to come. @LaraDunn
— laughingly — whether there’s someone inside at The Carnaval in Evolène runs from 6 January-16
the time. If you’ve seen The Wicker Man, you’ll know February in 2021.
what I mean. But that’s it, now winter is officially www.valdherens.ch
over and let the season of spring commence in this www.visitvalais.ch
rural mountain village. Cue more festivities. www.myswitzerland.com
LEFT
The Empaillés, in their straw
suits, are the baddies. These
costumes weigh up to 20kg
ABOVE AND BELOW RIGHT
There was even time to hit the
slopes amid all the festivies
58 WIRED FOR ADVENTURE JAN | FEB 2021 WIRED FOR ADVENTURE JAN | FEB 2021 59
You can also read
