No 814 February 2018 Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin - NZ Alpine Club

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No 814 February 2018 Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin - NZ Alpine Club
> Chair’s Report   > Section News    > Notices   > Coming Trips, Courses, Events   > Trip Reports   > Section Contacts   > Our Club On A Page

                                                                                                                                                 No 814 February 2018

                                                                                                                              Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin

                                                                                                           www.facebook.com/nzacwellington Twitter @NZACWellington

Enjoying sunrise beneath Kaitiaki Peak, on the east side of Ball Pass - more here
No 814 February 2018 Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin - NZ Alpine Club
February 2018
                                                                                                                      Wellington Section member achieves a world first
                                                                                                                      Nigel Roberts has become the first southern hemispherer to climb all the highest points in each of
Summer Rock is underway with 12 budding new climbers. Scott and his crew of instructors are                           the USA’s 50 states. Read more.
once again providing a high quality and fun course. I managed to call in on them briefly while they
were bouldering Baring Head recently. Clearly no lack of enthusiasm or tenacity. I’m looking
forward to seeing them on future trips once they have finished the course.                                            March Section night
                                                                                                                      Wed 28th March, we’re back at the Third Eye, to hear from John Phillips about his climb of
Preparation is also well underway for our winter courses. We are still finalising a few details                       Acongagua - the highest peak in South America.
including cost and some logistics. The courses always fill quickly so, if you’re keen, register your
interest with us by emailing the section wellington@alpineclub.org.nz.                                                Section nights beyond March
                                                                                                                      Wed 25th April, Rohan Light will talk to us about risk management and decision making in the field.
Course timings are as follows:                                                                                        Wed 30th May, Marcus Thomas will present his spectacular Cave book.
Friday 27th & Saturday 28th July (Beginner)
Friday 3rd & Saturday 4th Aug (Beginner)                                                                              Wed 27th June - TBA, any ideas please let me know.
Friday 17th & Saturday 18th Aug (Beginner/Intermediate)                                                               Wed 25th July, Ross Cullen will take us through three years of Norwegian scrambling and climbing.
Friday 24th & Saturday 25th Aug. (Intermediate/Advanced)
                                                                                                                      Wed 29th August, it’s the annual Wellington Section Photo competition judging evening.
Banff. We are currently negotiating with Vic Uni to hold Banff in one of their large lecture theaters.                Wed 26th September, Penny Webster will take us through her quest to climb all of New Zealand’s
More details on this as arrangements progress.                                                                        3,000m peaks.
                                                                                                                      Wed 28th November, Nina Sawicki will take us on a journey to Kanchenjunga base camp in Nepal.
On the book front I’ve just read 10% Human by Alanna Collen. If you want to improve your
climbing you might want to think about feeding your climbing microbes the kind of foods that make
them flourish and starving the couch potato beer drinking microbes that make that summit out of
reach.
                                                                                                                         Where is this situated?
“Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm” Winston Churchill.

If you have any comments on what you like or don’t like send an email to
wellington@alpineclub.org.nz or tweet us @NZACWellington.

Simon

                                                                                          From the Editor
                            Perhaps in honour of all the good climbing weather we’ve enjoyed this summer
                                I’m please to feature three trip reports in this issue of Vertigo. But I’m sure
                                   there are many more sitting in your heads and hearts just waiting to be
                                      written up. Let’s share more of our adventures. Just type up a report
                                              of between half a page to three pages as a Word document,
                                                   email it to me at occasionalclimber@gmail.com with one
                                                               to six jpeg images and I’ll format it for Vertigo.
                                                                  Don’t forget the page quicklinks at the base
                                                                    of each page - they let you go straight to
                                                                        the page you want rather than having
                                                                           to scroll back and forth all the time.
Simon Williamson
Chair: NZAC Wellington                                                                                     Peter
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No 814 February 2018 Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin - NZ Alpine Club
Gear Hire                                                                                                     NZAC Unwin Easter Meet - Mt Cook 30th March - 2nd April 2018
                                                                                                              The meet is a great opportunity for climbers to get together to climb mountains, rocks, socialise,
Don’t forget the Section has gear for hire: avalanche transceivers, ice axes, shovels, stakes,                explore and enjoy one of New Zealand’s Premier Mountain Landscape Aoraki/ Mt Cook National
hammers, helmets, crampons, probes, PLBs, ice hammers (entry level).                                          Park. Cost: $80 NZAC member and $110 Non-members for 3 night’s accommodation, activities
                                                                                                              and a barbeque dinner. More information here.
To hire gear please fill in the form here.
                                                                                                              Aspiring Hut closes 9 April for earthquake strengthening
Each item costs $5 per week with the exception of PLBs – PLBs are free but require a deposit of               UIAA Damavand Summer Camp 2018
$50 refundable on return.                                                                                     4th Iran Youth Summer Camp 26 July to 8 August. Damavand is the highest volcano in Asia.
                                                                                                              In 2018 Alam Kouh has been added for high wall climbing lovers. For more information and to
A little bit of advance notice would be appreciated as gear often needs to be retrieved from the gear         register interest here.
store in Lower Hutt. Gear collections and drop-offs are usually available in the city during the
working day or at section night.                                                                              New Zealand Sport and Recreation Awards 2018
                                                                                                              Entries close 7 March for the 11th New Zealand Sport and Recreation Awards, with a new Future
                                                                                                              Leaders Scholarship. More information and to submit your entry here.
Accommodation on Mt Ruapehu
                                                                                                              International Snow Science Workshop preliminary programme here
Our snowcraft courses for the past few years have been run out of the Manawatu Tramping and                   CCUSA - Camp Counsellors USA
Skiing Club lodge on Whakapapa. We’re always made to feel welcome and the lodge is well                       CCUSA is the leader in the American Summer Camp industry and the only Kiwi Company to have
situated a short walk from the top of the Bruce Road. Membership to the club is extremely                     a 100% placement record for 28 years, the most affordable program in New Zealand, offering the
reasonable - $35 per year or $50 for a family membership. Members stay at the lodge for $36 a                 most benefits, including the highest earning potential at camp. Apply here.
night including food. If you’re looking for somewhere to base yourself for your winter pursuits or
rock-climbing over the summer months go to www.mtsc.org.nz/joining.php to find out more about                 Information on NZ alpine hut systems requested
joining the club.                                                                                             Ang Rita Sherpa is from Khumbu and a graduate from Lincoln University in Parks and Recreation in
                                                                                                              1986. He hopes to build a series of mountain shelters on the Three Passes trekking route to reduce
                                                                                                              danger there. He seeks technical and financial support thepartnersnepal.org.

                                                                                                              Mountain Festival in Kyrgyzstan
                                                                                                              Climbers from all over the world are invited to celebrate the 90th anniversary of the first ascent of
                                                                                                              Lenin Peak, 7134m. Celebration activities include ascent of Lenin peak, trekking, guided walks, etc.
                                                                                                              More information and to book here.

                                                                                                              UIAA ice climbing season
                                                                                                              The provisional calendar for the 2018 UIAA
                                                                                                              Ice Climbing season is now in place. Read more.

                                                                                                              ICOpro canyoning course: 6-13 April
                                                                                                              More information and registration here.

                                                                                                              Marion Minifie
                                                                                                              In her obituary in the Timaru Herald, 29 April 1969 it is stated that ‘Mrs Minifie was a keen tramper
                                                                                                              and climber and was one of the first women to climb Malte Brun in 1900’. As far as I can find, the
                                                                                                              first ascent of Malte Brun by a woman was by Freda Du Faur in January 1911, so my grandmother’s
                                                                                                              must have been later. I would be grateful for any further information.
                                                                                                              David Minifie - david@minifie.co.nz
Heading to Mt Cupola, Nelson Lakes

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No 814 February 2018 Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin - NZ Alpine Club
Mike Neely abseiling into a crevice on Sebastopol Ridge

All our planned South Island trips come with the added bonus that rental vehicle costs for Wellington
Section members are covered by the Section.

If you’re uncertain about the skill level required with any of the trips, would like to register your
interest or to find out more, email us at wellington@alpineclub.org.nz.

Also, please contact us if you’re keen to run a trip yourself – the Committee can help with
advertising and logistics.

When                                      What & where
9 - 12 March 2018                         Trip to Paynes Ford led by Eric Duggan. The section will
                                          pay for transport from Nelson to Takaka and return
20 - 22 April 2018                        Rock climbing meet at Tukino Ski Field, staying at TASC
                                          lodge. Organised by Eric Duggan
Friday 27th & Saturday 28th July          Beginner Winter Snowcraft Course
Friday 3rd & Saturday 4th Aug             Beginner Winter Snowcraft Course
Friday 17th & Saturday 18th Aug           Beginner/Intermediate Winter Snowcraft Course
Friday 24th & Saturday 25th Aug           Intermediate/Advanced Winter Snowcraft Course
                                          To register for any of these courses contact
                                          wellington@alpineclub.org.nz

Section trip, Mount Wakefield                                                           > Chair’s Report   > Section News   > Notices   > Coming Trips, Courses, Events   > Trip Reports   > Section Contacts   > Our Club On A Page
No 814 February 2018 Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin - NZ Alpine Club
Lurking in a blue bag, base of cliff bottom left, the Green Geisha appeared. This stunning, sleek, bi-coloured, latest
                                                                                                           technology rope stunned the general population and slithered in style quickly overtaking the slowly crawling
                                                                                                           Caterpillar. Other ropes looked on.
                                                                                                           Zoro looked on nonchalantly and disappeared around the corner to eye up an unrequited love, a tall 25 that could
 The Caterpillar and Green Geisha                                                                          flare a man’s temper and make him bleed for more. Zoro returned. The choice was hard. The gorgeous new girl on
 By Jenny Cossy                                                                                            the block with smooth skin and supple moves, or the reliable old favourite, slightly short in stature, middle age
                                                                                                           spread appearing with a slight afro.
                                                                                                           The crowd kept the girls apart, climbing relentlessly up Seagrass Wall and Franklin’s Tower to ring the bell. All ropes
                                                                                                           having no rest as the eight climbers had fun in the sun.
                                                                                                           Zoro finally made his choice, his old favourite the Caterpillar for his March 2017 project on Bo Peep Slab. Alas her
                                                                                                           ageing stretch did not allow him to reach his final goal and was swiftly replaced with the Green By-stander while he
                                                                                                           waited for the Green Geisha to appear. This young, energetic and enthusiastic rope climbed upward with glee. But,
                                                                                                           alas, at the final draw she lacked experienced to assist our hero in his quest. With their bodies worn out and our
                                                                                                           stomachs impatiently rumbling, they began their descent to The Dangerous Kitchen and the Waitapu Springs Spa
                                                                                                           and Sauna.
                                                                                                           The youthful Green Geisha snuck away into the night with Stacey and John to send Franklin’s Tower at midnight
                                                                                                           and ring the night bell.
                                                                                                           Crease Wall and Stone Symposium Wall on Sunday gave us all some needed shade yet left us with sore fingertips.
                                                                                                           The Caterpillar was a great top rope enabler, giving so much friction that not all belay devices could handle her furry
                                                                                                           bountiful body. The Green Geisha, with a sleek smooth form was always in great demand to lead the way.
                                                                                                           Many made their own great achievements with amazing support from everyone. Marie led the classy Temple of
                                                                                                           Stone(18) even as fear clung to her most of the way. John on-sighted his first twenty. Marie on-sighted Anxiety
                                                                                                           Status(18) and Scarlet brilliantly seconded it. Matt returned to abseiling after a 15 year break and Jenny, the sun
                                                                                                           lizard, searched for sunny rock in between her swift ascents. Paul in the searing sun left his faithful friend behind in
                                                                                                           the shade and sweated up the Temple of Stone with the Green Geisha. Zoro, reserving his energy for the next day,
                                                                                                           fixated on his project….
                                                                                                           Fine dining at dusk at Hangdog, among the crowds of                Matt Pemberton in action
                                                                                                           Canterbury University students on a three day holiday, the
                                                                                                           wine and beer flowed. Games of Avalon were played and
                                                                                                           the accusations became wilder and more heated. Strange
                                                                                                           characters emerged from their shells as their cunning alter
                                                                                                           egos took over.
                                                                                                           The Caterpillar called and the team were in the van by
                                                                                                           7.45am on Monday heading to Bo Peep Slab at Pohara.
                                                                                                           The Caterpillar craving sunlight and heat, slipped off to
The         reclusive rope lay alone on the floor at the bottom of the cupboard for a month. The
                                                                                                           Franklin’s Tower to enjoy peace and quiet, sniffing the pink
                                                                                                           and white flowers on the tower’s ledges. The Green Geisha
sunlight that squeezed under the narrow draught gap lit her furry coat with dappled light, hinting
                                                                                                           was requisitioned for go-pro activities on the stunning 18,
at a life beyond the door - open spaces, fresh air and caressing hands stroking her fluffy sheath
                                                                                                           far left of the project. The girls had left him, and Zoro
surrounding her core.
                                                                                                           returned to the Green Bystander to attempt his ascent of
Late Thursday night, or Friday before dawn, he whispered to her, your time has come to shine               the 25 project. Without the wise old Caterpillar or the
and he grabbed her with strong calloused hands and coiled her into the bottom of his pack. In              youthful Green Geisha, his clean triumph lay just beyond
her contorted position she flew south and west, rattled over the hill and curled up with him all           his tired, worn out fingertips. It was not to be. Hence the
night in anticipation of an early morning rendezvous with the Seagrass Wall.                               next NZAC Meet was plotted, a return to Bo Peep Wall
                                                                                                           March 2018 with his own beloved rope.
Warm and curvaceous rock basked in the sun above her as her partner gently unbound her and
laid her out in a well coiled pile. Feeling loved and wanted, a partner of years, the Caterpillar          The Caterpillar was reunited with her loved one, who
ascended the unpopulated wall, searching for shining bolts to be attached to with carabiner                scooped her up into his arms, smiled and gently took her
jewellery. She rose to the sun with excitement.                                                            home to rest. The Green Geisha silently slithered away.
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No 814 February 2018 Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin - NZ Alpine Club
Of fifty, my top two North                                                                                              Denali was probably my best-ever climb. Nine of the eleven members of our party reached the
                                                                                                                         summit on the sixteenth day of our attempt. Not even the fact that collapsed snow-bridges over
 American climbs                                                                                                         crevasses in the lower icefall on the Kahiltna glacier later saw us marooned on the mountain for
                                                                                                                         eight days can take the gloss off the pride I feel as a result of my successful ascent of North
 By Nigel Roberts                                                                                                        America’s highest mountain. Of all the fifty US state highpoints, Alaska’s Denali is my firm favourite.

                                                                                                                         Second favourite – and the peak I’d most like to go back to and climb again – is Gannett Peak,
                                                                                                                         which at 4,207m above sea-level is the highest mountain in Wyoming. It is the fifth highest of the US
                                                                                                                         state highpoints, and is nearly 500 metres higher than Mt Cook. Gannett Peak is in Wyoming’s Wind
                                                                                                                         River Range, and can be approached either from the east or the west. Whichever route one takes to
                                                                                                                         reach the mountain, climbing Gannett Peak usually takes five or six days.

                                                                                                                                                                 Nigel will give a presentation about his 50 peak journey
                                                                                                                                                                   at a Section night to be confirmed asap

                                                                                                                         In July 2006, I was part of a five person
                                                                                                                         expedition, and we approached the
                                                                                                                         mountain from the western side of the
   On the second day of a six-day climb, Carl Lohman heads up the Titcomb Basin on his way towards Gannett Peak          range. Both before and after our snow-
                                        (which is hidden by Bonney Pass, the lowest point on the right-hand skyline)     and-ice climb to reach the summit on the
                                                                                      Photograph by Nigel Roberts        fourth day of our six-day trip, we passed
                                                                                                                         through some of the most magnificent
On a gloriously sunny Sunday last year – on Sunday, 10 September, to be precise – I reached the                          scenery it’s ever been my privilege to see.
 summit of Mt Marcy. At 1,629m above sea-level, Marcy is the highest mountain in New York state,                         Huge U-shaped glacial valleys filled with
 and it was my second attempt to climb the peak. The first time I tried to climb Marcy was in late                       lakes and fields of stunning wild flowers
 October 2016, but a combination of thick snow and poor visibility made me abandon my solo                               were breath-takingly beautiful.
 attempt to reach the summit when I was only an estimated 70 or so vertical metres short of my goal.
                                                                                                                         The remaining 48 US state highpoints
 I was particularly thrilled finally to have climbed Mt Marcy, because – by doing so – I became one                      were all interesting, many were
 of only about 300 people who have stood on top of all 50 US state highpoints. (By way of contrast,                      beautiful, and more than a handful -
 more than 4,800 people have climbed Mt Everest.) I also became the first-ever resident of the                           including, in my case, New York’s Mt
 southern hemisphere to have ascended all fifty of the United States’ state highpoints.                                  Marcy – were challenging. However,
                                                                                                                         Denali / Mt McKinley and Gannett Peak
 Reaching the top of all fifty was not something I set out to do when I climbed my first US state                        are clearly my top two. I commend them
 highpoint. I was on an altogether different trajectory: in July 1997 I climbed Denali / Mt McKinley,                    to fellow Alpine Club members as highly
 6,194m, while I was on a “Three-and-a-Half Summits” quest – namely, an attempt to climb at least                        worthwhile goals.
 three of the six highest of the continental Seven Summits plus Australia’s Mt Kosciuszko, which is
 only 2,228m above sea-level and, as a Kiwi, I can’t therefore think of it as anything other than a                                     Nigel Roberts returns to Camp Four
                                                                                                                                    (5,243m) after his successful July 1997
 half-summit.                                                                                                                      ascent of Denali / Mt McKinley (6,194m)
                                                                                                                                              Photograph by Aidan Brennan
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No 814 February 2018 Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin - NZ Alpine Club
Overnighting with a Kaitiaki                                      At the first swing bridge on the tourist trail leading to Hooker Lake we                  Up we went - initially steep scree, then 300 or so
Words and pictures Peter Laurenson                                declined the bridge, staying on the steep craggy ground on the true left of the           vertical metres of steep snow. By now the sun had
Since Guy Mannering and A. P. Harper first crossed it in          river. Our understanding was that this is where you had to go to access the               caught up with us and, as we cramponed up, sweat
January 1890, Ball Pass has become one of those better            moraine on the east side of Hooker Lake. Our first surprise, after having                 poured off. The chute narrowed to a choke stone that
known spots than most in our Southern Alps. So when my            battled up a little-used smear of a trail for an hour or so, was an Asian tourist         I imagined could be a challenge in winter conditions,
climbing buddies Simon and Caro suggested we do it due to         looking down on us from a small ridge above us. “You going Ball Pass?” he                 especially if descending.
the weather forecast being more favourable there than most        asked. “How the hell did he get there?” we thought. Then we spotted a sign
                                                                                                                                                            A little above that, at about 1,600m, a large rocky plain
other places at the time I thought, “yeah, I’ve wanted to check   indicating Ball Pass right, Hooker Lake straight ahead. The trail had been
                                                                                                                                                            called the Playing Field came into view, with Mount
out Ball Pass for years”.                                         expanded and we hadn’t caught up with that fact. Ah well, I got some lovely
                                                                                                                                                            Mabel looming over head. Here, again, route finding
                                                                  shots along the old route that I wouldn’t have if we’d known.
Many years before I’d crossed Copeland Pass which, at the                                                                                                   demanded care. The key is to remember to keep left/
time, seemed reasonably straight forward, so I wasn’t             From there we began a quite gradual ascent of the moraine, affording ever                 north. A zigzag Z trail leads up about 100m to Mabel’s
expecting the Ball Pass route to be too challenging,              more expansive views across Hooker Lake and up the glacier to Aoraki                      northwest ridge crest which, once we rounded, gave us
especially in summer. But right from the get go this route        Mount Cook. The main challenge on this section of the route are several                   our first view of Ball Pass. And it didn’t disappoint,
continued to surprise us.                                         deeply cut side streams which demand some steep ups and downs to get                      looking very much a mountain pass.
                                                                  around, but after about three hours we reached the grassy flats of east
We set off from the Whitehorse carpark (Hooker Valley) in                                                                                                   To gain the Pass required a sometimes exposed rocky
                                                                  Hooker Valley camping area, perched above the terminal moraine. Here was
calm fine weather and soon realised that our choice to go west                                                                                              traverse around beneath Mount Rosa to a snow field,
                                                                  our second surprise – despite the wide notoriety of Ball Pass, route finding is
to east was a good one. Doing it this way had us nice and cool                                                                                              which we joined at about 1,800m. This went up in a
                                                                  no piece of cake. We wandered around scratching our heads for half an hour
until mid day in the shadow of the Mount Cook Range directly                                                                                                north easterly direction to the Pass, though the last 30
                                                                  or so before spotting a solitary cairn, hidden in a sea of rock. The main
above. We would also later discover that the steepest sections                                                                                              or so metres were on steep slippery gravel.
                                                                  problem was that, leading up out of the camping area, there are at least two
of the route are on the western side – easier to ascend than      viable looking chutes. Eventually we realised that it’s the most northern one             Below - approaching the east Hooker Valley camping flats (right),
descend.                                                          we needed to ascend.                                                                      with the steep snow chute leading to the Playing Field above

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No 814 February 2018 Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin - NZ Alpine Club
On the Pass at 2,121m, we knew we were in big mountain           Kaitiaki translates as trustee, or guardian, which perhaps makes                I sweated my way back up the ridge and met Simon and Caro.
country. Back down our ascent route lay a panorama taking in     Kaitiaki peak the guardian of Ball Pass. As we set off in the direction         We decided to drop straight off the ridge, down steep scrub and
the Sealy Range beyond Hooker Lake in the south, then the        of Caroline Hut about 10am I was thankful to this Kaitiaki for any role         hope we weren’t bluffed. It was a good call. If we’d gone any
Main Divide, until Aoraki Mount Cook took over in the north.     played in laying on such lovely conditions for us. But on the eastern           sooner we would have been bluffed, but at that point we snuck
For the first time, on the Pass, Aoraki’s magnificent Caroline   side of the range there was no respite from the glaring sun. Stupidly I         down on to the flatter boulder and scrub field below. We’d all
Face came into view as well and, beyond that to the east,        had not sufficiently slip-slop-slapped the day before and had to wear           missed the new track, which drops off on the east side of the
unfolded the Tasman Glacier, the Minarets, Elie De Beaumont,     my fleecy to cover up my sunburned arms. Sweating took on a new                 ridge at about 1,400m.
the Malte Brun Range, to name but a few of the more notable      meaning for me as we worked our way onto and along Ball Ridge.
                                                                                                                                                 About four hours after leaving camp we trudged in to Ball Hut
points. O for oooorsome!
                                                                 Here was my next surprise. Simon and Caro had talked this down                  (1,020m), longing to quench our thirsts. “Looks like the tank’s
By the time we reached our campsite, across a snow field         as a fairly easy section of the route. Though not as steep as parts of          empty” reported Simon. “What the…” Well, it had been an
skirting Ball Glacier, about 70 metres below the Pass, it had    the western side, much of Ball Ridge is exposed and crumbling. Lots             incredibly hot summer. Upon further investigation he dredged
been about an eight hour day. As far as memorable campsites      of little undulations and sub ridges to lead us astray, especially as it        some out after removing the top lid on the tank. “Thank you
go, this one was right up there. Two nice flat areas have been   was hard to stay focused when the views unfolding around me were                Simon!”
carved out and protected by low stone walls, in a sheltered      so beautiful. Aoraki’s Caroline Face dominated the scene, but the
                                                                                                                                                 Beyond the hut was another eight or so kms of gradual descent
spot commanding unbeatable sunrise/sunset views. Though it       views up Tasman Glacier were also compelling.
                                                                                                                                                 down the old Ball Hut Road. In places the road has given way
took us a while to spot them, there were two tiny tarns – more
                                                                 It took two or so hours to drop down to Caroline Hut at 1,800m,                 to the effects of glacier contraction, requiring short scrambles
rock pools actually, right under our noses, nestled in a small
                                                                 where we gratefully restocked our water supplies. From there was                through scree and boulder fields. Luckily for us our friend Pip was
outcrop beside the campsite. We settled in to enjoy all this,
                                                                 some more scrambling to regain the main ridge. At about 1,500m                  willing to collect us, wherever we met, along the 4WD track above
hoping that the less than appealing weather forecast would not
                                                                 we paused for food. Simon and Caro were suffering from foot strife,             Blue Lake carpark. As soon as Simon got a signal he put in a call
bear out. It didn’t and my camera got a thrashing.
                                                                 having worn their semi rigid climbing boots. My problem was heat, so            and, with still a couple of kms to go to the carpark, her Subaru
Our next surprise was the craggy high point looming to the       I went ahead while they aired their feet.                                       Forester appeared around a corner. That was nice. Even nicer
south, directly above camp. The day dawned calm and clear                                                                                        were the bottles of beer she produced from the boot as we loaded
                                                                 My understanding was that all I had to do was keep on the ridge. It
and we felt no particular compunction to break camp. The                                                                                         up our gear. I hadn’t realised until then that Pip is an angel.
                                                                 did seem a bit odd though how poor the condition of the trail was
crag looked suitably climbable, to the extent that it would’ve
                                                                 getting. I could still see a trail, but disturbing cracks were beginning
been rude not to. So we did, enjoying an easy scramble up                                                                                                            For a route map and more images
                                                                 to appear in the dry, rocky earth. The further I descended, the more
on to what Mr Google then told us is named Kaitiaki Peak. At                                                                                                         www.occasionalclimber.co.nz
                                                                 these cracks looked like small crevasses, until I reached a sudden
2,222m it’s the highest point on the Mount Cook Range to the
                                                                 end point where daylight shone through gaping holes. The rapid
south of Ball Pass, affording views on another magnitude of
                                                                 contraction of Ball Glacier had left huge exposed rock slopes behind,
fabulousness than back down on the Pass. Life was good.                                                                                          Below - a panorama from the summit of Kaitiaki Peak. From left, the lower
                                                                 no longer supported by glacial ice. The land was literally falling apart.
                                                                                                                                                 Mount Cook Range with Mount Rosa (2,161m) closest. Then the Hooker
                                                                 Yikes, time to backtrack.                                                       Lake, Mount Sefton left of centre, with the Main Divide stretching right to
                                                                                                                                                 Aoraki Mount Cook. The Caroline Face is top right

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No 814 February 2018 Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin - NZ Alpine Club
Left above - Caro ascending the lower section of Kaitiaki Peak above the campsite               Centre - regaining Ball Ridge beyond Caroline Hut                      Right - on the lower section of Ball Ridge, with Tasman Glacier beyond
                                       Below - setting off from the campsite beneath Ball Pass. Tasman Lake is right, with the craggy profile of Ball Ridge stretching left to the Malte Brun Range

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No 814 February 2018 Wellington Section Monthly Bulletin - NZ Alpine Club
Powered by volunteers
We’re always thankful for volunteers and members stepping forward to help the section run
smoothly. A lot goes on to keep our club going, virtually all powered by volunteers. On the back
page is our “Club on a page” summary. It gives an at a glance description of all the things we do,
how and why. Feel free to print a copy and pass it on to anyone who might be interested in
becoming a member or volunteer. And if you’d like to learn more about how you could get
involved, please email us at wellington@alpineclub.org.nz.

Blair Bryant has had to step down from the Committee due to an unexpected opportunity for him in
Singapore. Thanks for your support Blair and all the best in the tropics.

Role                                     Name                           Contact
Chair person                             Simon Williamson               021 054 7684
Secretary, gear custodian                Carolyn Ellis                  021 574 287
Treasurer                                Vacant
Trip co-ordinator                        Eric Duggan                    021 350 161
Section nights, Vertigo, Photocomp       Peter Laurenson                021 446 725
Social media                             Marie Kelly
Club liaison                             Keith Munro
Library, Projects                        Alex Waterworth
General Committee                        Matt Pemberton
General Committee                        Guy Dubuis
General Committee                        Joshua Mouat
Patron                                   John Nankervis
Rock drill overseer                      Jeremy Tries                   027 555 5893

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 Twitter @NZACWellington

                                                                                                                           For quick access to our Section’s page on the
                                                                                                                               NZAC website, click or scan this QR code
                                                                                   > Chair’s Report   > Section News   > Notices   > Coming Trips, Courses, Events   > Trip Reports   > Section Contacts   > Our Club On A Page
> Chair’s Report   > Section News   > Notices   > Coming Trips, Courses, Events   > Trip Reports   > Section Contacts   > Our Club On A Page
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