Palawan's Circumnavigation of Newfoundland Summer 2013
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Palawan's Circumnavigation of Newfoundland
Summer 2013
The 13 email logs sent during the course of the trip
Subject: Newfoundland #1
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013
Hello everyone:
Palawan left Newport on July 11 (a day late to allow us to install a new generator) at 9:30 AM. Because we had a
good weather forecast we decided to go straight thru to Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, arriving on the morning of Sat.,
July 13. Lunenburg is a wonderful town and looks much like it did in its heyday toward the end of the 19 th century.
It is a World Heritage Site and is focused now on tourism. Has a nice Maritime Museum and they have cleaned up
the waterfront. Lots of good restaurants in all price ranges. We planned to depart Monday, but held over a day to
have an electronics issue addressed.
1
Left this afternoon (Tues 7/16) at 12:30 with a plan to go straight thru to St Anthony at the northwest corner of Newfoundland. Hope to get there Fri/Sat depending on the weather and ice. Have to go thru the Strait of Belle Isle during daylight to safely maneuver thru the ice, so may pull into one of several harbors to get the timing right. Weather forecast is ok, but it could get lumpy on Thur. Crew getting on well. Aboard are Capt. Steve, Chef Mary and Mate Clarissa. Norm Angus and Bill Morris complete the compliment. Still have XM radio so are getting US news. Have limited cell phone as we work up the Nova Scotia coast. We’re about five miles offshore and can see shore light. Will reach the end of Cape Breton late tomorrow afternoon and begin crossing the Cabot Strait heading for the south west corner of NFD. All for now T Subject: Newfoundland #2 Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 Hi all – Presently at 44 55N 59 31W on a heading of 22 degrees m at a speed of 9.5 kts. Wind is 30kts from the southwest. Moving along nicely about half the way across the Cabot Strait. Seas 1-2 m. SW corner of NFD is about 60 miles away. Had a good day. Hope to approach entrance to Strait of Belle Isle sometime Fri. Not a lot of traffic – what there is is mostly fishing vessels. Crossed one large cruise ship heading out of the Gulf of St. Lawrence bound for Halifax. Monitored the helicopter Medevac of a young crewman on a fishing trawler who had been struck by a boom, broke his arm and banged his head badly. The Canadian CG seemed quite efficient. Not much else – conditions are expected to abate later this evening /early morning. All the best- The Crew of Palawan Subject: Newfoundland #3 Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 Hi everyone – Has been an interesting 24 hours. Last night a frontal system moved thru bringing heavy rain, lots of wind and seas that built to 6 ft. Fortunately the wind was from the south – right on our butt. Winds were steady at 25/30 kts and at one point gusted to 42. This morning as the system was clearing out it gave us a squall. Today the seas subsided, the wind lightened and came around to west but not strong enough to sail until about an hour ago. Now making 9kts on a nice beam reach. Looks like the Strait of Belle Isle could have some weather issues over the weekend so we are moving as quickly as possible to get thru Fri/Sat. Heading for Flower’s Cove tomorrow morning where we’ll make a go/no go decision. Some have asked for pictures – wish we could, but they glom too much data with this system. Until tomorrow – all the best The Crew of Palawan Subject: Newfoundland #4 Date: Wed. July 31,2013 2
Hello Everyone – after several days in remote areas we have finally got to Little Bay Islands we a very nice lady is
letting us use here wifi connection. The following was written several days ago in hopes of finding a connection
sooner. I’ll fill you in on the intervening period shortly (I hope).
======================================
When I last wrote we were traveling up the strait of Belle Isle in a bit of a blow, approaching Flowers Cove
where we were going to make a go no go decision as to proceeding around the top of St. Anthony. As it turns
out, the weather moderated somewhat and there was virtually no ice except in the far distance, so we decided
to go for it and arrived in St. Anthony on Friday afternoon, July 19th . All of the wharves were full so we
anchored off the “Grenfell Dock” which was right by the museum. The harbor was well protected so almost 3
days of wind up to 30 knots did not affect us too much. St. Anthony is a nice town (pop. 5000) whose two main
revenue drivers are the Grenfell Hospital complex (now run by the province) and fishing. It has most of the
services one would need including two well stocked grocery stores, a do it yourself laundry and several
restaurants. The Grenfell Museum is quite well done and is very interesting as is Grenfell’s house up the hill
which is a time capsule from the 1920’s.
ST. ANTHONY 51 03N, 055 44W
Tricia Angus arrived by car on Sunday to meet Norman. We were able to do a number of errands (primary
among them acquiring replenishment bottles of Screech, a Newfy rum of some renown, as well as Bill Morris’s
favorite dark rum, Lamb’s “Navy” which is not available in the states. We spent Sunday afternoon driving to
L’Anse Aux Meadows which is said to be the site of the first Viking settlement that has been found in North
America.
With Norman’s departure, Steve and Patty Kurlansky arrived and spent the afternoon at the Grenfell Museum.
Capt. Steve and I spent a fair amount of time trying to develop a fix for a problem with the main which occurred
3
on our way around the top. The pin on the roller swivel at the top of the mast worked loose and we are having
difficulty rethreading it. For the moment, because of almost constant wind in St. Anthony we are waiting to
affect the recommended fix in Lewisporte. Albert Pilgrim, the local welder for the fishing fleet was very helpful
and fabricated the tool we will need.
On Tuesday the 23rd, at the recommendation of Sandy Weld a fellow CCA member who was anchored nearby
and is an expert on these climes, we departed for Maiden’s Arm which is on the south side of Hare Bay just
south of St. Anthony. What a spot! Hard to describe except to say that at the end of the arm you take a right,
another right then a left and enter an almost round basin which is only 500 yards across, peaceful and a great
spot for the night in any conditions. Got a great picture of us lying in the pool with a fabulous sunset in the
background.
MAIDEN ARM, HARE BAY 51 12.5N 055 47.4W
We left the arm and headed south down the coast – stopping first in Croque Harbor. While well protected from
most winds, the anchorage is deep so, with the prospect of more stiff winds, we decided to move after lunch to
Crouse Harbor which is within Cape Rouge Harbor. Very small fishing community, maybe 20 dwellings. Many of
the houses were decorated with strings of multi-color triangular pennants and one of the houses had a big
Welcome Home sign hanging from it. Never did find out who was coming home. (Subsequently learned that
many communities have Coming Home celebrations each summer to welcome those who have moved away.)
Spent a peaceful night.
Stay tuned.
All the best from the crew of Palawan.
Subject: Newfoundland #5
Wednesday, July 31, 2013
4
Hi all -
On Thursday, July 25, 2013, we left Crouse and headed southeast about 55 miles to Confusion Bay and Harbour
Round. Passed through the Horse Islands (Eastern and Western). Saw a number of pods of dolphins that would
come and check us out and then slide away. It is just west of Notre Dame Bay our primary target for the next
few days.
Harbour Round has a large cement dock that protected the fishing boats. We were able to tie up and we were
welcomed by the town people. Very friendly, old and young came to take a peek at Palawan. Young boys spent
hours diving off of the dock and just hanging out. All members of the family came down including the family
dog - a big 8 month old Newfy pup. Only about 200 residents live here now that the fishery is closed. They can
catch up to 5 cod per person per day – max 15 per boat. They take full advantage of this and stock up.
Nutrition in this outpost clearly poor ranging from overweight and toothless to skinny, bow legged. Gave us
more cod than we were able to take. Had to turn the last offer away because we had no refrigerator space. We
all went for walks around the town and harbor area.
HARBOUR ROUND, CONFUSION BAY 49 55N 055 43W
Friday, July 26, 2013.
Today Mary served fresh cod for breakfast with toast and for lunch, blackened spicy cod with salad. Great! We
have left Confusion Bay and Harbour Round heading to Little Bay Island, Southern Harbor. Multiple sightings
of dolphin and small whales on the way here. Anchored right in the center of the harbor.
Saturday, July 27, 2013 –
5
Little Bay Island. Took a long walk around the Southern harbor and met many people. Very friendly! The
fishery in this town had been abandoned and the govt. wants to shut the whole community down. To
permanent residents (50% +/- on the current residents) the offer was $80,000 to relocate, now it has jumped to
$250,000. They can rent their own house back for the summer for $500 for 5 years. They need a 90%
participation rate of permanent residents for it to go through. Joe and I walked up to Aunt Edna's Bed and
Breakfast to use the WiFi and refreshed our email and newspapers.
SOUTHERN HARBOR, LITTLE BAY ISLAND 49 38.5N 055 47.2W
Now on our way to Fortune Harbour. Today's trip started by going between Long Island and Pilleys Island via the
Long Island tickle. Passed the ferry landings and then saw several waterfalls on each of the islands as we moved
on down the passage. Pouring rain in Fortune Harbour. Tried anchoring in the Fortune Harbour (Squid Cove),
but seemed to be dragging a bit. Moved around the corner to the Southeast Arm.
Sunday, July 28. Weather was clearing a bit in the morning but still too wet to contemplate a trip to shore.
Started off heading to Twillingate. Left the protection of the harbor and it was really rough outside. The boat
handles it well, but instead of three hours of heavy weather and pounding , we opted to go back into the
protection of the islands. Again, the coastline scenery is rugged. There was a very pretty waterfall with fresh
water cascading into the sea. We went to Exploits Upper Harbour. A very pretty harbor. The weather changed
from pouring rain, to cloudy to sunny. Temperature stayed around 54. Activity high in the harbor. Kids in 2
tenders racing around, a few sailboats, kayakers, walkers on the shore. . Several old homes that are now
wrecks. Majority of homes look like well tended vacation spots. No roads, only a walking path around the
perimeter of the islands. It was a fishing village in the past but now a "go to" vacation spot - seems like it would
be a very short season!
6
FORTUNE BAY 49 55N 055 47W Subject: Newfoundland #6 Monday, July 29, 2013 Time is flying. This morning's weather is beautiful. We had local visitors for coffee, Bob Daye, an engineer, and his two friends. One was Craig Wellfid, a chiropractor, another, a general practitioner from the mainland. Bob, his brother in law, father in law and their families have three separate homes co-located on the island. Craig has his own home and his father Ivan, the retired island doctor, has another. We tried to visit Ivan, but he was out. We took a long walk along the shore, met many friendly people, learned the new blue house used to be the site of the Anglican Church and that the yellow house up the hill from the blue house was the old school house. The government relocated everyone from this community and stopped all government services. Slowly but surely the original families returned to their former property and homes. Technically they are squatters as they no longer own the property - but apparently everyone knows who owned what. And, the unwritten rule is you can only squat on property you owned in the past. In other words, no one without a history on the island can squat! The island is full of wild flowers (white and pink marshmallows, astilbe, phlox, blue bells, daisy, delphiniums, rosa rugosa, etc.) 7
BURNT COVE, EXPLOITS ISLANDS 49 31N 055 04W Left Exploits Upper Harbor after lunch. A very calm and uneventful crossing. Arrived in Twillingate at about 5:00 pm. We are located at the fishing wharf right in the middle of the fishing fleet. Very active dock, loading ice and unloading the catch - it is primarily shrimp. We had dinner on the dock at R & J's. OK but not notable. The day was spent in the Harbor. Steve and Patty walked into The Bakery for breakfast. They caught up with Bill and I and the 4 of us walked to the Twillingate Museum. Twillingate derives its name from "Toulinquet" the name given by early French Fisherman. Next door we toured St. Peter's Anglican Church, one of the oldest wooden churches in Newfoundland. After a lunch outside at Abbey's Cafe, Steve and Bill went back to the boat. Patty and I continue our tour stopping at the Masonic Lodge. Evening of July 30th Activity on the dock was at a peak late yesterday afternoon into the evening. Gordon Noseworthy, Harbour master, dock master, and mayor of Twillingate checked in frequently. Since our arrival there has been a constant flow of sightseers. Palawan is visible throughout the Harbour and is such a contrast to the rugged fishing trawlers, it stands out. All of the people are very friendly. Clarissa acquired fresh cod, shrimp and king crab legs from some of the visitors. A crusty 81 year old fellow stopped by , Lloyd Colburne, CBC, author and producer of several wildlife documentary movies. Another, nice man, drove Capt. Steve to the store to buy a filet knife. 8
TWILLINGATE 49 39N 054 45W The M.S. Deena Tasha arrived in port with a hold full of Turbot and Rose Fish (very boney with lots of spines) and tied up directly across the dock from Palawan. We had a front row seat to watch the whole unloading process. There was a clear structure for the work activity. The crew that had caught the fish got off the boat and an unloading crew hired by the company that had bought the fish got on. They unloaded the boat using buckets with fish packed tightly from the hold. These were then hoisted up and dumped into transport bins by the dock workers who were not affiliated with the boat. Then the fork lift operator would whizz around the dock, moving the filled bins to the buyer of the fish, who was checking the quality and making sure he wasn't paying a lot of money for old heavy ice left on the fish. (He was paying $1.50/lb. for Turbot and 25 cents/lb. for Rose Fish). Fresh ice was added to the bins and they were loaded on to a refrigerated tractor trailer. Shrimp was transported directly to the processing plant right at the dock. This went on for hours. We watched for a while and then walked to the Canvas Cove Bistro for a very nice dinner. When we returned to Palawan, they were just finishing up. The young 20 something's who had been in the hold shoveling out fish were being hosed down head to toe. While we were at dinner, Steve and Mary were invited aboard the Avalon Voyager, #137856. This was an independent family owned fishing trawler and it is stuck in port. They cannot leave until the hold is loaded with ice. The processing plant controls their workload with the distribution of the ice, too much shrimp coming in = no ice, and the boat can't leave. They were still on the dock when we pulled out this morning. Wednesday, July 31, 2013 As we left Twillingate, the weather cleared completely and we had a beautiful trip to Bridgeport Harbour. This is another small fishing village. It was very pretty. We dropped anchor. Mary served us a delicious lunch (roast 9
beef sandwich + a red cabbage and snap pea salad). After lunch every one fell asleep reading their books. At
around 3:00, we headed out to Western Harbour on South Samson Island. We arrived around 4:30. Very sunny
and actually warm 82 degrees! It is a very secluded Harbour EXCEPT there are two power boats rafted nearby.
WESTERN HARBOUR, SOUTH SAMSON ISLAND 49 28.9N 054 57.0W
Thursday, August 1, 2013
We left Western Harbour on South Samson Island at around 10:30 this morning. We traveled across Notre
Dame Bay to the Western Harbour on Sevier Island. Mary served homemade Chili for lunch. We were all ready
for it as the delicious smells wafted up from the galley as she prepared it. This afternoon we made the trip
down to Lewisporte. Burnt Bay is very pretty.
We arrived at the Lewisporte Yacht Club at about 3:00 pm. The people here as everywhere in Newfoundland
are very friendly. Once settled we all, headed off to explore. We went right out of the Yacht Club, and stopped
at the chandlery, then continued down the road to the post office, found a barbershop for Steve Kurlansky. The
chandlery owner took Capt. Steve to buy oil for an engine oil change.
Joe, Patty and Bill headed in the other direction to find the Ocean View B & B where Bob and Pete will be
staying tonight. It was further down the road than expected. On the way we saw the old fire house with
antique Ford fire trucks. And, it was lucky we stopped in at the bed and breakfast as it turned out they gave Bob
& Pete's room away last night. After making sure Pete and Bob would have accommodations for the night, Joe
left a welcoming bottle of Screech in the room for their arrival.
10LEWISPORTE 49 14.5N 055 03.3W The Joe, Patty and Bill team continued down the road looking for a place to have dinner. We stopped at the museum and craft store. The young people managing the store told us that we were a 20 minute +/- walk from the nearest restaurant. We turned around and stopped at the express liquor store to stock up on beer. After cocktails on the boat, we took a cab to Li's Chinese Restaurant. The food turned out to pretty good! (Hint: do not order white wine). Everything is very spread out in Lewisporte. It is not a quaint little village. While you would need a cab to get around, Dan across the dock lent us his extra pickup for the day which was much appreciated. As the guide book indicates, Lewisporte is a good place for a crew change because of its proximity to Gander and its protected harbor. Patty, Steve, and Bill will get off of the boat tomorrow morning. Patty and Steve will fly home from Gander and Bill is going to pick up a car and sight see from here to St. John's. Sat. Aug 2/3 Bob Field and Pete Dinan arrived on time Fri morning. We spent the day cleaning, doing laundry and fixing things. Capt. Steve was able to drill and tap a new hole in the mainsail headsail swivel which now allows us to use the main. He also replaced a circulating pump which will help us conserve water. This morning (Sat) it is raining and chilly with a light breeze from the north. We are about to leave for Morton’s Harbour which is about half way to Fogo Island. Hopefully it will clear as the day progresses. All for now - The reconstituted crew of Palawan. 11
Subject: Newfoundland #7
Monday, August 5, 2013
Hello everyone – We are now in Seldom Harbor, a small community on the south side of Fogo Island. Bob Field
has assumed the duties of scribe, consequently the different style. Off tomorrow to work our way down to St.
Johns. Hoping to go to Newport, as the first stop!
“Under-STAND; it’s Newfound-LAND”
Thursday, August 1, 2013—
With this short but helpful reminder, received from a couple of cab drivers upon our late evening arrival on
Thursday at Gander International Airport aboard an Air Canada JAZZ flight from Halifax, Pete Dinan and I met up
with Mike of Busy-Bee Taxi for our ride of about 45 minutes on the Trans-Canada Highway (“TCH”) to
Lewisporte and a night at Oceanview B&B.
Mike had just retired from thirty years’ service as a sixth grade school teacher, and his interests in Canadian and
Newfoundland social history, politics and geology were many and informative. He was especially helpful
explaining the struggle of confederation with Canada in 1949. More importantly, we could understand him.
With barely an ounce of persuasion, Mike located a TD Trust with an accessible, functioning and compatible
ATM, and an open convenience store (yes, they’re here too) for a purchase of an 8-pack roady of Molson
Canadian. The cab’s sway bar was a little iffy and Pete had a fit of angst (which he gamefully denied) when from
the shotgun seat he observed Mike averaging 100 on the speedometer while occasionally drifting across lanes
on the TCH. Once advised speed was measured in kilometers rather than miles he calmed down and sulked in
his beer knowing he’d been had.
We had to telephone the Oceanview to confirm its location which was across from the RCMP Barracks with an
obstructed harbor view, and met up with housekeeper Wanda, a first nation descendent from Conn River. Pete
and I were her first guests who had ever visited the reservation at Conn River, which we visited five years ago on
our South Coast Newfoundland cruise on board Palawan. Pete tactfully confirmed that she had her first nation
“green card” which qualified her for massive tax relief and social privileges. However, his efforts to marry her
and gain similar status failed. Don’t worry Janet, I’m not certain that it would have lasted.
The B&B was fine, but they had messed up our reservation. Space was at a premium. “Never matter,” said
Wanda from the protective confines and glare from a television showing a wrestling match, referring to Pete as
“Love”, and I got a comfortable first floor (basement) room with a queen sized bed, and Pete shared a bed (king
sized) with a queen. Heck, it was only for one night, and Toby and crew had left us with a welcoming fresh bottle
of Screech for just such an emergency. In spite of gaining 1-1/2 hours in Time Change, yes 1/2, you must recall
that we are in Newfound-LAND, the evening temperature was still surprisingly warm, with room fans we both
slept well.
Friday, August 2, 2013—
We awoke to an even more majestic day of clear skies and temperatures well into the high 70’s. Pete
complained of the bright morning sun which had upset his fragile sleeping pattern; while I comfortably
showered and enjoyed a hearty breakfast prepared by no other than Wanda. Pete had earlier strolled into the
village and located Palawan at the marina. As you might expect Palawan dwarfed the competition on the dock,
12and, quite surprisingly to me, the marina was more active and populated with boats of all sizes than anticipated; and it drew a wealth of interesting boat owners and Lewisporte Yacht Club (LYC) members; all great conversationalists. Lewisporte is one of the principal recreational ports within the vast Notre Dame Bay archipelago which offers great cruising and convenient access to the Exploit Islands, a resettled ‘outport’ of times past. LYC serves as the official ‘Port Administrator’ pursuant to Canadian law and they really run a good program. Having taken a taxi, I arrived at the LYC dock before Pete, and immediately found and was greeted by Toby, Steve and Patty Kurlansky, Bill Morris and the Palawan professional crew of Captain Steve Lawson, Chef Mary and Mate Clarissa. The latter was a new face hailing from Jersey in the Channel Islands. Patty and Steve soon said adieu and debarked to Gander for a flight home. Bill also departed and was planning to rent a car and do some more exploring of the “Rock”, the affectionate term for the rock island, from shore. They had arrived the day before following their voyage from Newport, Rhode Island to St. Anthony’s, and then from several points northwest of Lewisporte. The Weather Channel broadcasts a reality show based on the St. Anthony iceberg fishermen and their unique attempts to harvest glacial ice for bottling. We were offered and accepted the loan of a Chevy cab and a half Silverado truck, equipped with legitimizing bait barrels, for the day and gave quick attention to some crew errands, before Toby, Pete and I began a little exploration of the environs. Of interest is a liquor store which doubles (or triples) as a convenience store and ESSO gas station. It was hard to decide whether it was a gas station w/ a liquor store attached or a liquor store with an attached gas station. As the cruising guides say, “People are resourceful up here”. We then checked out the Foodland Store, the Mall, Post Office, bought stamps and searched for some pubs or restaurants for the evening. Nothing was open late except for Li’s Chinese Restaurant which we eventually patronized later that evening with consternation. We did follow one lead and drove to the East Shore where we found a Fish Market and a symbiotic food truck which offered very good lobster rolls, French fries and onion rings but no beer. Worth the visit, but a disappointment for beer lovers. The Palawan crew had seen the place from the boat the day before and Toby was ecstatic that his prior identification of a large paper mache appearing advertising sculpture along the highway was indeed that of a lobster. On our return, Steve had managed to restore functionality to the mainsail and re-hoist it. Other boat work was being completed, stores stowed, and we were readying for departure the next morning. The day ended with a visit by Bob, Pete and Toby to Li’s, second visit for Toby, where we received a very solicitous, seemingly arrogant, and disturbingly and artificially ingratiating personal service from proprietor Li. He had arrived from Hong Kong at the age of 17, was now 22, and had become by any measure a successful local restaurateur and entrepreneur. Very strange. Back to Palawan, a nightcap of Screech, and to bed. Saturday, August 3, 2013— We woke to a very gloomy day with clouds sponge like and heavy with moisture. Foul weather gear was the uniform of the day. It didn’t take long to get under way once Toby retired his Kindle after absorbing the NY Times and Wall Street Journal. Notre Dame Bay is magnificent, and has been described as “Penobscot Bay on steroids”. There is more of everything and everything viewed is much bigger. During the winter most all of this water freezes and we were told that runs to the Exploit Islands are made by truck over the sea, often just on slush like conditions. But before starting the day’s journal, permit me to suggest that this is a good point to historically note that on 9/11 Gander became the unanticipated receiving airport for grounded incoming flights from Europe to the United States. At the high point, I believe 17 or 18 airliners were forced to land. Before international jets and during World War II, Gander had been an airport of great strategic importance for international flights needing to take on fuel, anti-submarine patrols, and is very large. However, it became quite a challenge for the region to 13
house, feed and care for the approximately 2,000 waylaid air passengers and crew. Lewisporte took in about
500 of the displaced, and cared for them for about four days. It strained the available resources of both the
town and its people, and passengers slept on pews in the church and at the school house. The people of
Lewisporte got the job done to great acclaim, and apparently David Rockefeller and his wife were among those
cared for. To this day the Rockefellers continue to be generous to the community and reportedly pay a visit each
year, along with many of the air crews, to renew friendships made and again say, “thank you.”
Now back to our story. We cast off and in the rain headed for Morton Harbor, which required a run back up the
bay, a turn east, and which was roughly half way to Seldom Island on Fogo Island, our next layover port. The
water was clear, and relatively warm at 63 degrees. We spotted a whale pod, but only from the blow spouts,
many. Sea gulls are fewer than down our way and there are no lobster ports at this time of year. That is a treat,
and the autopilot works well and is seemingly uninterrupted. What one does see, especially for about 5 weeks a
year, this year beginning on July 20, are “cod boats/outboard skiffs”, open, of about 20 feet. This is the “food
fishery” season when individuals, in spite of commercial and private bans on cod fishing, are permitted to stock
their freezers. Three can jig in any one boat, and the total daily catch is limited to 15 fish.
MORETON'S HARBOUR, NEW WORLD ISLAND 4934.8N 054 52.0W
While on the trip to Morton, the skies brightened; we had lunch followed shortly thereafter by home-made
chocolate chip cookies of Mary which disappeared in a heart-beat. Toby only wanted a half, but managed
eventually to eat four halves after much persuasion. One passes two very bold headlands entering Morton. And,
following two attempts to drop and set our anchor on the eastern side, we gave up and moved to Cross Cove
where Steve found better holding in spite of the risk of a surge should the wind shift to the north which was
unlikely given the forecast.
We showered and prepared to hunker down for an evening of cocktails and dinner on board; when we were
abruptly greeted by three revelers in a very small inflatable who invited those on board to come ashore and join
his father, Carl Knight, and his hours old bride, Lois, ages 70 and 60 respectively, at a wedding reception then
14underway. Really!!! The invitation seemed to be made in earnest, and with a little hesitation we collectively
decided to go. With wedding presents of Palawan Crew Shirts in hand the tender was launched by Clarissa and
off we went to a home and wedding tent across the harbor. It was an unexpected and fabulous party, with
music provided by a signing group that Carl was a member of and has been singing together for the last 50
years; food featuring cod au gratin, cabbage rolls, mussels and every other thing one could think of. Guests
included family who returned from places as far away as Yellowknife; Hamilton, Bermuda; Toronto; and
Montreal. The Knight family had lived, fished, and traded there forever; even when it existed as an out-port
before roads. The evening is embedded in our collective and individual memories forever.
Subject: Newfoundland #8
Thursday, August 8,2013
Hello everyone – Hope you enjoy Bob’s latest report. We’re having a good time w/ great weather. Did a 7k hike
this pm in 2 ½ hours!
Toby
“UnderSTAND; Its NewfoundLAND” Continued.
Sunday, August 4, 2013—
Ah, what a morning, perfect for a quick tour of Cross Cove and Moreton's Harbor in the dinghy. It becomes
quickly obvious to the eyes from some of the old, decaying and worn buildings, flakes and fishing stands
(platforms) that there was another more prosperous era. Schooners plied between Labrador and Moreton's on
a regular basis carrying goods, food stocks, and other equipment being transshipped which they exchanged for
salted and dried cod bound for the world market in St. Johns, and, then, on to Europe. Grand fortunes were
made for some. As it was, is, and will be.
Our next port of call will be Fogo Island, specifically Seldom-Come-By Harbor, or now, just Seldom, on the south
coast. The passage offered some amazingly rough and rugged geological features. Great cliffs crowned by
majestic lighthouses, whose originally brilliant red roofs and tower stripes have faded from lack of fresh paint to
a soft salmon color in these times of world austerity. Again there was evidence of whales but no real sightings.
The trip was short, good weather, and it was difficult to imagine what it would be like in an angry North Atlantic.
Greenland is about 700 miles away to the northeast, just a hard three day sail. Worthy of at least six ice lollies,
or so; but, no signs of icebergs, stray ice or calves.
We passed the still operating Fogo Island ferry arriving at Chance Island as we made our way to Seldom. Long
lines were queued at the dock. We were later told that people establish a place in line for their cars hours, if not
days, ahead of their intended trip. The ferry crews then load around unoccupied cars leaving a place in tact for a
later trip. Same story around the world.
15SELDOM HARBOUR, FOGO ISLAND 49 36.6 054 11.1W Seldom Harbor is a working harbor, and shrimp is the catch. A processing plant spews shrimp shells and guts into the harbor from an active discharge pipe. There were about six or seven shrimpers docked near us; but, we were able to get pier space at the transient wharf operated by the Fisherman’s Union Trading Company (F.U. Trading) which proved also to be the face of a historical museum and Harbor Management office. Fogo is one of the oldest named features on the coast of Newfoundland and the name appears on French maps of the 16th to 18th centuries. It then became a thriving part of the British mercantile system of fisheries. Early on the people of Fogo formed the Fisherman’s Protective Union to break the stranglehold of the British, and they then anticipated being resettled after Confederation with Canada in 1949, but long before the directive came from Premier Smallwood they had wisely worked together to create fishing co-ops which provided greater economic security and stability for many local people. With the co-ops in place they successfully resisted resettlement; however, pressure is still being placed on them to do so today; and ever increasing monetary offers are received from the provincial government. Help and support for Fogo’s independent existence has also come from a Fogo islander, Zeta Cobb, who has returned from a career in fiber optics in the United States where she is reputed to have made > $300,000,000 from the sale of her interests in her company. She has designed and built a “space age” science fiction appearing international inn on stilts and jutting out over the Atlantic. Rooms start at $800/night, but, the prices include tip. It opened in May, and has provided employment for many. The governments of Canada and Newfoundland are also said to be involved. We, Bob, Pete and Toby, are less sanguine about the prospects for success five years out after the novelty has passed. We had drinks there after being denied dinner reservations. Weird!!!! We were able to borrow a GMC Sierra 4x4 to drive around in consideration of a museum donation, and saw much of the island; Joe Batt’s Arm, Fogo Central, and the Irish village of Tilting. We were initially a little disappointed with what we found, or didn’t find, No Pubs; and retreated back towards Seldom when we found Kenna’s Pub, had beers and pizza. We were very hungry and concluded that it was delicious. We chatted up a 16
Hydro-Quebec supervisor who was on island to manage the rebuilding of the electrical distribution system. He confirmed our assessment of Fogo Inn’s prospects. Nice chap, and he did nothing to change our favorable view of Newfoundlanders. Then home to our bunks. Monday, August 5, 2013--. Awoke to clear skies, and discovered that the day was a legal holiday here in Fogo. Clarissa fished, chased Puffins and sought whales with new friends made at the Joe Batt’s Festival. We later discovered from Brian (her new friend) that they had witnessed the killing of a whale by a 60 foot Thrasher, shark family, which aggressively defends its territory by swatting the whale with a sharp barb on its tail and then lets the sword fish lance the wounded whale with upward thrusts to its heart. He claimed that the sea was red with blood and the Thrasher surfaced and leaped about 100 yards from their small boat. Apparently such events are not rare, and fishermen are lost, lucky for Clarissa; but Clarissa has doubts. Toby, Pete, Steve and Mary hiked all over from the trails leading out of Fogo town base, Brimstone Head at 273 feet was one accomplishment. Later I joined them, and we saw much more, including, the landing strip, Fogo village, other villages, Beaches Restaurant, and the Marconi Wireless Museum. Fogo was an important wireless center and communications link for Labrador and Newfoundland in past years. Before a great dinner at Nicole’s later this evening, Toby and I completed our tour of the island and returned to base station. Rain became increasingly heavy, and we all visited the Museum. Shortly thereafter Brian and his wife, (Clarissa’s fishing friends) came by to visit Palawan. On the fishing trip Clarissa managed to jig up one cod which she later soaked in batter, fried, and shared with Steve for lunch. Brian and his wife had first met in Labrador City, where he worked as a heavy equipment operator at the mine, she as a security inspector. Now he runs the island’s heavy equipment. ( the following morning he showed up on his huge Caterpillar road grader to send us off.) They too filled us in on the Fogo Inn deal, skeptical, and not big fans as yet. Brian had known Zeta in school. Her family had accepted resettlement. I can’t avoid getting back to Nicole’s. She is open for business only seasonally and has a very sophisticated kitchen with a Toronto trained staff; which, at closing, Toby inspected and verified while I stood waiting by the truck out in the rain. It’s a Hoopes thing with which I’m familiar. We had steak, a Jigg dinner (boiled cabbage, potatoes, carrots, and corned beef), pulled pork, and a little turtle soup; reputed to be better than Fogo Inn. Beer and rum too! We met a couple from Montreal who agreed, having previously tried the Inn. Avoiding RCMP roadblocks, we arrived back at Palawan safely. Tuesday, August 6, 2013— Up early, we received a morning horn blast from our dock companions visiting from St. Johns in a rather uniquely appointed craft that some described as a floating Winnebago. Nice retired couple, ex merchant marine and lady friend of 28 years. He couldn’t hear, but made up for it with loud, boisterous and constant communication. Toby invited him to visit and have coffee, but he never received this message. Among other things, and in very salty language known to most mariners, he made clear that he had no use for the boat and owner berthed across the harbor. Following breakfast and data charging of the Kindle, we cast off to engage a beautiful sea on a perfect morning. The sun is high above cottony clouds and sunscreen is the order of the day. We’re heading for Newport Harbour as we continue to make way towards the Bonavista Bay and the Bonavista Peninsula. Sails are flying for the first time in three weeks, double reefed, wind at 21 knots, boat speed 9 to 11 knots and while underway we saw real, bona fide, authentic whales up close at about 50 feet, rolling, playing and blowing mist from their blowholes. This is truly life at its best! 17
NEWPORT HARBOUR 49 02.5N 053 38.4W We also saw magnificent offshore lighthouses painted with brilliant red colors guarding the coast and protecting mariners. However, still no ice to be seen, and, now that we are more south, it is increasingly unlikely that we’ll see any. Newport Harbor is a small cove protected by rocky shores on all sides. There are about a dozen seasonal cottages and there appear to be four or five people on shore. Access is only by sea or over the ice in winter. My guess is that people come out here during the Food Fishing season to be closer to the fishing grounds. We see flakes of fish drying on shore. There is also a narrow passage between the rocks that invites our attention but only by the tender. We’re going to attempt access now that the thunderstorm which hit during anchoring has abated. Shortly after the mini-storm ran its course we spotted 5-6 men and women eyeballing Palawan and preparing for a go at fishing. They were pleasant but not dotingly so, and they later presented us with a gift of fresh cod and offered some advice on entering the “cove”. It’s like a “mini” Piscataqua River; a very narrow channel leading to, and draining, a large inland body of water creating a fast moving current. Our first attempt to penetrate the pool at mid-tide in the tender failed and we grounded slightly on some kelp covered rocks. We retreated and may try again tomorrow. Following evening showering, we sat in the cockpit admiring nature’s works: unlimited sky, clouds, ethereal colors, granite shore, hawks, gulls, solitude, quiet, reflection, permanence. We humans really are just visiting this earth. Mary prepared and Clarissa served a roast lamb dinner accompanied with fine Argentine Malbec wine. Earlier in the day I wrote that life couldn’t be better. I was wrong. Now is that moment. Conversation, tired eyes, to bed. Wednesday, August 7, 2013— 18
It’s becoming habitual, life does get even better. Today’s example is a presentation by Mary for Bob and Steve of
fresh cod, double poached eggs, served hot on wheat toast. However, Toby and Pete declined this opportunity
which I declare will be to their everlasting regret. Cod is Newfoundland, and Newfoundland is cod. When
visiting family and friends, I suspect that every Newfoundlander guest presents a fillet or two of cod rather than
flowers, as a gift to his/her host. Annie Proulx’s book of a few years ago, “The Shipping News”, really captures
the spirit, uniqueness and anomalies of this place. Try reading it.
I now hear some stirring and restlessness on the lower decks . My guess is that we’re about to fire the engine
and see where this day leads. The sun is out, but the morning is still chilly and commands heavy shirts. My guess
was correct, and we promptly set off from Newport bound for Bonavista Bay and Terra Nova National Park at
Saltons in Newman Sound. Our fishing friends started their day at the same time and bid us adieu on their way
to fishing grounds. The total trip was about 35 miles, and took about a leisurely 6 hours of motoring. Towards
the end we lost the sun and overcast and clouds predominated. Chilly! Burr.
SALTON'S WHARF, TERRA NOVA NATIONAL PARK 48 34.7N 053 56.7W
While on route we observed many puffins and porpoises, but no whales and still no ice. More people were out
on the water and we even saw a couple of sandy swimming beaches. It is good to recall that we think of
Newfoundland as being very far north, when in fact it is on a latitude with London, England, and many miles
south of Oban, Scotland. But it does extend far eastward into the North Atlantic and the Labrador Current has a
thing or two to say about water temperature.
We altered our course at one time to take in Arch Tickle, and after some searching and repositioning, we were
able to locate the arches which had been “lost” behind a rock formation. They were interesting geologically, and
they were but one site along a coast having several dramatic features. Uplifted sediments, igneous extrusions,
crashing plates, and metamorphic rock were all mixed together and boldly on display. Pete was almost certain
19that he had the terminology correct. Bob contributed his recollections from Dartmouth Geology 101 of fifty
years ago, but we really needed Betsy Dinan, Pete’s resident family petro-geologist for an accurate assessment.
Having energized their juices and competitive spirits, Pete and Bob next debated the meaning of “I have the
con.”, and, whether or not we were ”in” Palawan or “on” Palawan. Pete over engineered and limited the scope
of the “con” question and was resistant to a comprehensive answer which Bob was ready, willing and able to
provide based upon his exhaustive Navy experience; but, they agreed that “in” related to a ship’s company, and,
“on” to passengers or guests on board a vessel. They, therefore, were “on” Palawan. Mary found a “Glossary" of
Sea Terms” in one of Palawan’s many libraries, and the “con” question was definitively resolved. Pete eventually
found an insipid solution that let him save face.
Thinking back, I have not yet addressed the “anchor ball” hoisting evolution and its dramatic loss of élan and
artistic qualities since my balance issues have barred me from working the foredeck. All I’m willing to say
publicly, is that the precision pas de deux of past years has lost much, as others have been enlisted to assume
the task. What had been “Balanchine-like” in its grace, timing, and beauty of execution is now performed quite
mundanely. However, with a little practice, hard work, and physical devotion, I’m certain that this critical and
timeless nautical evolution can be restored to its former glory and once again meet the standards of your
author, the NYYC, CCA and Palawan. Thank God for a training year!
The Palawan “ins “and “ons” are now out hiking in the Park, and we’ll all be awaiting another of Mary’s dinner
extravaganzas in about two hours. Time has passed, and it’s now 6:30 p.m., and all are home from various hikes
and visits to Natural Wildlife displays here at Terra Nova National Park. Toby and Pete set the standard and hiked
high and low always making plenty of noise to scare off the local bear and moose. But, plenty of moose scat
was later found clinging to the heels and soles of shoes, now declared by its owner to be unfit for Palawan.
Cocktail hour has commenced and a barbequed tenderloin steak is evening’s the dinner entrée. Can’t wait.
Tomorrow we travel to Cape Bonavista, to spend the night at Bonavista Harbor, and prepare for another
adventure on the open water, just before our final “slide” leg to St. John’s. We picked up some great maps of St.
John’s this afternoon which contain lots of history and local information bits. That’s all for now. Toby is about to
send this as soon as reliable Wi-Fi contact is established. Don’t take any of this too seriously. All is well and no
one is sulking in the corner.
St. Johns and George Street, which incidentally holds the Guinness record for most bars on a single street, get
ready, here we come!!
Subject: Newfoundland #9
Saturday, August 10,2013
“UnderSTAND; Its NewfoundLAND”
Thursday, August 8, 2013—
Conflicting observations from the reading public call for both more and less information in the text. Some would
say that response means it’s just about right as it is; but, I shall try and limit my observations a bit more.
However, there is a lengthy and important story to tell about our neighbor to the North, and not many
Americans either appreciate or know anything about it.
In any event, let’s get going keeping word economy in mind.
Terra Nova National Park, the first established in Newfoundland, was so intoxicating with its natural resources
that many arose early and reengaged its trails for supplementary hikes in the morning. Toby used the Wi-Fi
20resources again, and waited for the paperboy to load his Kindle. Having done so, he was lost in news for the rest
of the morning and became our resident Brit Hume only under intense and persistent questioning.
He broke from his reading just long enough to help us get underway, and direct Palawan’s bow towards
Bonavista Harbour, located at the tip of the Bonavista Peninsula and Cape Bonavista. John Cabot reputedly
“discovered” this location in 1497 and laid claim for England. Most all of the North Coast fishing was contested
by English and French interests; although the French generally confined themselves to the more westerly
located fishing grounds near Quebec. We broke out the sails again, retraced some steps, made good time, and
arrived in Bonavista Harbour, a fishing port, at a floating dock with grass growing on the walkway, in mid-
afternoon.
BONAVISTA 48 39N 053 06.9W
Toby and Pete walked the town, toured the replica of John Cabot’s ship ‘Matthew’, and made dinner
reservations. Mary, Clarissa, and I hired a taxi for both site seeing and shopping. Bill, our driver, was a “good
soul” but a bit unimaginative. With prodding from us, we did see the Giovanni Caboto statue, the world
acclaimed Bonavista Lighthouse, puffins in a rookery, the Dungeon (caves, sinkhole and arches eroded from 200
million years old pre-cambrian rock), Spillars Cove, and, on a later trip, Elliston, the ”root cellar capital” of the
world. In town we saw large wooden framed churches and the “Orange” Meeting House. Clarissa and Mary
shopped, and claimed more cod from a fellow shopping gentleman, who later visited Palawan and told of his
cable and telephone maintenance responsibilities for the entire peninsula. He also shed light on the work
“stamp” system (unemployment) and just how the fisherman survive with all the regulatory cutbacks.
We all re-gathered for early evening libation, went to dinner, and patronized a local pub where we met the
proprietor who had spent time in Salem, Massachusetts, and a very informed customer on vacation and back
from Alberta who provided us with good insight into western Canada’s oil tars and the mechanics of mining
same. Then back to Palawan carrying a bag of “ice “cubes for Toby. We have now seen ice!!
21Friday, August 9, 2013—
The harbor came to life early, ‘food fishing’ “punts” were darting about, again with groups of three. We received
several visitors, including our Wichita Lineman”, more cod and “salt cod” was offered. The former Chief of Staff
to the local MP came by, and filled us in on the politics of marine and fisheries regulation. There is still some bad
aftertaste from Confederation and resettlement.
Time to leave, and our next port of call was Trinity Harbour, a well to do historical fishing community, restored
and gentrified. During the sail, Pete and I passed the time playing word games while I had the “con”. Pete’s
Master’s Degree in “Word Jumble” proved to be my downfall and he trashed me. I like to think that it was my
laser like focus on the “con” that claimed my attention and enabled his wins. He claims superior intellect was
the cause. Peter has improved his self-esteem.
TRINITY HARBOUR 48 22.3N 053 21.4W
Trinity Harbour is mecca for up-scale tourists, vacation homes, a summer theater, and United States license
plates on some cars. We docked at the pier, walked around, bought some gifts, and waited for the Canadian
Coast Guard/Marine Fisheries Research 110’ Cutter “Vladykov”, a Russian émigré researcher and environmental
hero to Canadians, to arrive. While waiting we met a retired Coast Guard captain, who told us all about ice-
breaking, the Northwest Passage, the Russian territorial claims, oil and security, and environmental work. It
turned out that he grew up on “Francois”, an outport we visited three years ago on the south coast. There were
500 or so people in the village when he lived there, and now there might be just 50. They are resisting
resettlement.
After dinner at the Dock Restaurant, we returned to finding the crew engaged in animated conversation with
the Coast Guard crew (5) and scientists (3). BUT, they had “ice” from a bergie-bit, we’ve now SEEN “ice”, which
they broke apart and shared with us, with rum. Toby has a bag of frozen berg ice stored on Palawan to bring
22home. The usual “Snap, Crackle, and Pop” was present. Incidentally, the Fogo Thrasher shark story, has been
definitively debunked, just as Clarissa and we thought.
I almost neglected to report that on rounding Cape Bonavista we were able to immediately set a reefed foresail
and enjoy the 25 knot southerly winds on a reach to Trinity Harbour (about 8-9 knots of boat speed). We sailed
along a beautiful coastline and on entering the Harbour passed a grand head lands, named “Horse Chop,” which
was crowned by a massive fog horn than one could hear from miles away at sea; which is exactly what is
intended. The whole scene reminded me of Long Beach’s arrival at Sydney Head (Australia) about 50 years ago,
with a Royal Australian Navy Band welcoming the ship with a spirited rendition of “Waltzing Matilda”. However,
no band was in sight this time.
Tomorrow is supposed to bring rain and strong winds, so we’re planning to hunker down for 24 hours or so.
Maybe, as the weather permits, we’ll do some hiking or truck touring, if Cory’s (the dock master) offer to lend a
truck is proven real.
Bon soir. Bob
Subject: Newfoundland #10
Monday, August 12,2013
“UnderSTAND; Its NewfoundLAND”
Saturday, August 10, 2013—
Sometimes one just has to put some stock in weather forecasting, and this morning is one of those times. As
predicted, we got some rain, but little of the anticipated wind, during the night. The conditions are gray and
heavy as I speak, VLADYKOV got underway very efficiently and silently to do a day of pulling pots and
conducting laboratory tests on crab in Trinity Bay, we are tempted to move on towards St. John’s with a possible
bail out option at Old Perlican Harbour should conditions deteriorate. Three forecasts were in agreement,
however, and Palawan remained idled at the Trinity Harbour dock. It proved to be the correct decision and the
day brought increasing winds and rain.
Trinity Harbour is not a bad place to “kill time.” The town is gentrified and there are many restored buildings.
Green’s Forge was one that Toby really enjoyed and it had been in operating for over two hundred years using
the original tools and equipment. There were craft and gift shops, open only in summer, and several of the crew
found desirable items; for me, an interesting wood hiking stick. During our morning walk, Pete, Bob and Toby
visited an old wooden Anglican Church, Aunt Sarah’s chocolate shop (Sarah and her husband are from Toronto
and have recently taken up the trade after leaving more traditional office jobs); and checked out a restaurant,
Twine’s Loft, that had been recommended. It offered sort of a French country menu, had fine wines, and dinner
was fixe price. Quidi Vidi Honey Brown Beer, Lamb shank and Hazelnut Crusted Salmon were the two entrees
for the evening. Pete swallowed hard but figured salmon would be ok and we made reservations. The
restaurant proved to be a good choice. To no surprise, I chose the lamb shank.
Meanwhile, back at the dock, Palawan continued to attract visitors, many with children. One such couple was
here on vacation from Bahrain visiting family in St. John’s. We have received many offers of assistance and
suggestions as to how and what we should see and do in St. John’s. Many members of the Royal Newfoundland
Yacht Club have also stopped by. Should be fun when we get get there. More loaner car offers; one from a
former Commodore.
With a truck, and a Suburu temporarily now in our fleet, afternoon plans were cast. Toby, Mary, Pete and I took
the truck and drove Pete and Mary past aqua-culture farms (mussels) to the Skerwink Trail Head across the bay
in Trinity East. Mary had identified the Trail as one of the “best three walks in the world”. Though daunting at
times along the cliffs, with multiple signs imploring care and caution and with eyes closed at many points, Pete
somehow made it with Mary guiding him by hand. Both affirmed the earlier reports and said it was great. Toby
23and I drove to the Trinity Head lighthouse and Fort Point. Good views of Skerwink Head. We couldn’t see any
sign of Mary and Pete but did run into Clarissa and Steve and the Suburu. Rain started falling in earnest and we
retreated to Palawan after a stop for provisions packaged in 16 oz. cans.
VLADYKOV, skippered by Cory Jones’ cousin our host here in Trinity, returned as we were leaving for dinner, and
somehow our crew managed to get more Bergi Bits and crab samples from them during our visit to the
restaurant. We enjoyed very good food with Aunt Sarah’s chocolate, but we collectively agreed. Nicole’s in Jim
Batt’s Arm was just a tad better. Did have a great Merlot, desserts extraordinary, and our waitress was engaging
and told us much about how she has to manage to get through winters. Everything shuts down, no work, money
is at a premium. Back to Palawan, and to bed, hoping the storm blows through during the night.
Sunday, August 11, 2013—
The storm from hell finally arrived during the night as predicted and as it had been clearly displayed on the
weather radar. Wind and rain beat down on our deck and canvas, and seas had lots of time to build on Trinity
Bay. VLADAYKOV had more testing and, being Sunday, got underway at 8:30 in the morning. The rain has mostly
stopped, but thick fog has rolled in, and there is much radio and dock talk about the fog, swell, and residual
wind which is still blowing in the twenties and powerful. Some marginal clearing in the skies, maybe we’ll be off
later. Decision made, we’ll be sailing at 10:00 heading for the Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club at Long Pond
across the peninsula from St. John's.
ROYAL NEWFOUNDLAND YACHT CLUB, LONG POND, CONCEPTION BAY 47 31.3N 052 58.1W
We thanked and paid our respects to friends made; returned cars; and prepared to sail under clearing skies, but
still lots of sea fog beyond harbor entrance. We motored for a short while and then set sails on a reach in fog
and high seas, heading for Bay de Verde, Baccalieu Island and Conception Bay. On the way out, we passed
VLADAYKOV, unseen in the fog, activated the fog horn, while making 9 knots of boat speed under two reefs. We
24continued sailing right through the ”tickle” at Baccalieu Island where currents, winds and surge all converged.
Pete and Toby engaged in a classic debate as to the height and direction of the surge. Neither would give in.
After a short while, the wind and course shifted to place the “wind on the nose”, Lesley, and once again we
reverted to motor to reach the RNYC, at Long Pond, before dark and dinner. On the way we needled ourselves
between ferryboats plying to and from Bell Island and navigated a narrow man made channel into the RNYC
docks. There were many Club members present for our arrival. As usual, they were universally wonderfully
welcoming, helpful, friendly and engaging. Muriel, the Club Manager and cook, was especially helpful and held
dinner for us.
Toby set Palawan right on the mark at the RNYC dock with nary an excess or wasted move or shout; we had a
soap laden fresh water wash down; hoisted the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club burgee; had a beer; ate a hearty
dinner at the RNYC; and then returned and went to sleep.
Our plans are to scope out St. John’s city, the capital of the province, by car tomorrow (the RNYC is located on
Conception Bay about 25 minutes to the west of the city), after we receive an anticipated visit from the current
Commodore and meet the dock master Steve. Logistics are still being worked out about the next crew change,
as Lloyd Miller, Dick Pendelton, and a friend of Toby’s from Bermuda, James Watlington, arrive, and we depart.
Not many more of these to be written, at least by me. I hope you’ve enjoyed them to date as much as I have
enjoyed writing them. It’s impossible for us to thank Toby enough. :>) Bob
Subject: Newfoundland #11 (FINAL MISSIVE from Bob)
Wednesday, August 14,2013
“UnderSTAND; Its NewfoundLAND”
Monday, August 12, 2013—
When spending any extended period of time on or near the sea one quickly recognizes that flexibility and
fluidity (get it) in decision making becomes a daily event. Here at Long Pond this morning under sunny and
cloudless skies and very mild winds we get a taste of imposed flexibility when we discovered to our dismay that,
although we enjoy a gracious and wonderful host in the members and staff of the Royal Newfoundland Yacht
Club, our needs for services transcend and conflict with those of the area’s providers. To wit: no laundry, no
provisioning and no rental car services are conveniently available in capacity to meet our needs at or through
Long Pond, as nice as it is. Response, get on the phone, call St. John’s Harbour Control and determine if Palawan
can be accommodated a day early at the pier. We do, it could, and as soon as Pete returned from his stroll
around the RNYC, we gathered up the canvas cabin sole covers already shore side to be washed and got
underway. The tide was high and we had plenty of turning space and water to reorient Palawan for a swift
departure to Conception Bay. Toby was excellent at the helm, and once in the Bay we set the foresail and
headed north at 8-10 knots for Cape St. Francis which we rounded three hours later bound for a St. John’s
Harbor arrival at 3:00 p.m. The sail was joyous with lots of wind on the tail, sometimes gusting to 35 knots, and
we all agreed that this trip seemed to provide some of the best under sail experiences that any of us have had
on Palawan.
It proved to be a very bold coast, marked with lots of sea caves eroded by timeless sea action, and lighthouses
perched perilously on soaring rock outcroppings high above the boiling ocean. We encountered a cable ship
exiting the harbor, and saw several helicopters flying in to St. John’s from drilling and production rigs 60 miles
out in the Hibernian Oil Fields. We later discovered from Steve Marshall, a barrister, former Port Authority
Chairman, and member and former Commodore of RNYC, that one of the servicing helicopters crashed a few
years ago with considerable loss of life and that one of the platforms had collapsed and sunk to with even
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