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May 2021
yours forever - download me please e-edition
Kagiso Lediga
(virtually)
pure
bunkum*
* Snorkel in Simon’s Town, savour the Wild Coast
+ Bliss out in a spa on Mother’s Day
Emigrate to Steyn City
STANDS FROM R3.3-18m
H A M I LT ON’S
PROPERTY PORTFOLIO
the boutique experience
gauteng | cape town | garden route
eastern cape | mauritius
CLICK HERE FOR ALL LISTINGS
w w w. h a m i l t o n s . c o . z a
View from THE TOP
M
others work so hard and have such a that their smart-arse offspring will demand an Xbox, be
reputation for being good that Hollywood permanently glued to a smartphone, and spend more
went and made a movie about what happens time communicating with some digitised algorithm than
when moms take a break. It’s called Bad having meaningful conversations with the woman who
Moms, and while it’s totally tongue-in-cheek and over-the- made it all possible in the first place.
top and full of moms-gone-wild shenanigans, it does hint Recently released on streaming television, Tali’s Baby
at a few things we should probably remember about the Diary gives another comedic perspective on motherhood
most important woman in all our lives. – being a mom in the context of the social media age.
Firstly, moms are people, too, and also deserve to live Today being a mom includes endlessly recording your
a little, let their hair down, swing from the chandeliers child’s every gurgle and fart for all the world to like on
occasionally. Moms should get a pink ticket from time to Instagram. Moms have to be mobile film studios and PR
time. And not just on Mother’s Day. agencies all rolled into one.
Secondly, while it’s safe to assume that our mothers This month, for one single day, moms everywhere
are perfect, that they can do no wrong, never stayed out take centre stage. Busy executives order flowers online,
late, never bunked school, never kissed boys behind the seldom-heard-from sons and daughters buy chocolates
library, and always finished all their vegetables, we should or treat their moms to wine-soaked lunches. There are
perhaps remind ourselves that almost every mom once picnics with grandchildren and happy group hugs and
upon a time had her wayward moments. Good for her! family-sized selfies. That’s great. But why should moms
Thirdly, our moms didn’t come into this world with a get this kind of attention only as a special treat? Surely
guidebook for raising us. the woman who gave us life deserves our love and
Moms have to figure out the nitty-gritty of motherhood gratitude every day.
on the job, exchanging their former lives for the dedicated, If the last year has taught us anything, it’s that life
round-the-clock, ‘always on’ task of nurturing another is unpredictable, and the amount of time we have with
human being. It is probably the world’s most thankless the special people in our lives is unknowable. We at
entrepreneurial endeavour, and the reward for their efforts kulula.com wish all moms a happy Mother’s Day, not only
in terms of love and attention from us – their offspring on 9 May, but every day. Because you are one-of-a-kind,
– is diminishing. Nowadays, it’s within a few weeks of and to us – your sons and daughters – you will always be
giving birth that moms must prepare for the likelihood the best mom.
@iflykulula @iflykulula @kulula kulula.com kulula.com
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 3
May 2021
yours forever - download me please e-edition
Kagiso Lediga
(virtually)
pure
bunkum*
All the web addresses
you see in this magazine
are clickable. Just hover
your cursor over the URL
and click.
* Snorkel in Simon’s Town, savour the Wild Coast
+ Bliss out in a spa on Mother’s Day
giso
PUBLISHED BY
Contents PICASSO HEADLINE
Me a
21
et K
a proud division of Arena Holdings
Hill on Empire, 16 Empire Road (cnr Hillside Road),
MAY 2021 Parktown, Johannesburg 2193
PO Box 12500, Mill Street, Cape Town, 8010
EDITORIAL
Editor Keith Bain
Copy Editor Nicci Collier
Content Manager Raina Julies – rainaj@picasso.co.za
Content Co-ordinator Vanessa Payne
ART
Head of Design Studio Jayne Macé-Ferguson
Senior Designer Mfundo Archie Ndzo
23 31 Junior Designer Bulelwa Sotashe
Production Editor Shamiela Brenner
Cover Photographer/Retouching Sven Kristian
EXPERIENCE
SALES
7 THE SOCIAL SPACE
Project Manager Merryl Klein –
Take care out there.
37
merrylk@picasso.co.za, +27 82 895 7260
11 NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK Sales Consultants Stephen Crawford,
Where to munch that isn’t at home. Richard White, Sameegha Wolhuter
Advertising co-ordinator Johan Labuschagne
EXPLORE
17 REST ASSURED management
Zhoosh sleeps in the City of Gold. Business Manager Lodewyk van der Walt –
23 BELOW lodewykv@picasso.co.za
Remember to clear your snorkel. Management Accountant Deidre Musha
General Manager, Magazines Jocelyne Bayer
31 STATE OF BLISS
Where to treat your beloved this Mother’s Day. Kulula.com
37 THIS AIN’T HOW YOU DO IT Chief Executive Officer Comair Ltd Glenn Orsmond
The Wild Coast is forever. Executive Manager Sales and Marketing, kulula.com
Brian Kitchin
DISCOVER Brand Communictions Manager, kulula.com
7 44 HER MOTHER’S DAUGHTER Luane Lavery
America’s first-ever woman VP, and the Comair Limited
woman she owes it all to. 1 Marignane Drive, Bonaero Park, Kempton Park, 1619
47 HOME AND AWAY Tel: 011 921 0111 | kulula.com | contact centre:
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53 A FEW GOOD BOOKS unsolicited material. khuluma is published monthly by Picasso Headline.
The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Picasso Headline, kulula
A pile of novels or Arena Holdings. All advertisements/advertorials and promotions have been
with women at paid for and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publisher. While
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uell
kulula, nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors,
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Crue ,
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SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE EXPERIENCE
1 Who let the dogs out?
Big-eyed Emma Stone plays
Cruella de Vil, one of Disney’s
vilest villains, in a new live-
action spinoff from the studio’s
THE
1961 classic, 101 Dalmations;
in the animated original she’s
an insane woman obsessed
with making a coat from
O C IA L
the fur of dogs she kidnaps
S
for this purpose. Cruella is
essentially the villainess’s origin
story. Stone brings to life the
AC E
young, rebellious, creatively
P
S IT SA FE
talented Estella whose haute
fashion ambitions compel her
to embrace her dark side. In
cinemas 28 May.
KEEP
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 7
EXPERIENCE SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE
3 4
2
4
2 Catch Kaalkop live 3 Monster ride 4 Take it outside
‘I entertained my family from On 5 June, the Fedhealth Galileo Open Air Cinema is
the day I could stand on two Magalies Monster MTB Classic expanding its footprint with
legs,’ says Nataniël, the singer, returns to the North West more film-going options. There’s
cookbook writer, TV host and Province for the 18th time. their VIP status Galileo Royale
wearer of dramatic outfits. He The event happens at the experience at several intimate
is also an unrivalled raconteur, ATKV Buffelspoort Resort and Cape Town venues, their classic
whose knack for dry, honest cyclists have three distances Galileo Picnic experience, with
storytelling has earned him (of around 16km, 33km or food vendors on site, and their
a cult following. You can 65km) to choose from. For tiny Galileo Drive In, which harks back
see Nataniël in a variety of children, there’s a sweet little to those days when you snogged
sumptuous outfits in a number 2½km ride as well. The event watched from inside your car.
of live performances this month. will strictly follow Covid-19 Movies start at sunset, and
Check the full line-up and book regulations and entries close there’s a packed programme of
on his website. on 31 May. cool flicks to check out.
nataniel.co.za stillwatersports.com thegalileo.co.za
8 M AY 2 0 2 1 kulula.comSOMETHING FOR EVERYONE EXPERIENCE
7
5
6
5 Schalk Sings Badly 6 Mountainous movie 7 Find your rhythm
Comedian Schalk Bezuidenhout The great Mary Twala passed Pictured above are Afro-soul
doesn’t take himself too seriously, away last July, leaving behind a songstress Sammy Bee and poet,
and his latest show – Schalk legacy of stellar performances, Gqobhozimbawla, two of the
Sing Sleg – is evidence of that. including her captivating role as an artists performing at Rhythm n’
Picking up from where he left 80-year-old widow in This is Not a Poetry in Gqeberha on 29 May.
off in the film Kanarie, in which Burial, It’s a Resurrection which this The event is a showcase of young
he had to sing, he has crafted a year became Lesotho’s first-ever comedians, poets, hip-hop emcees
show that combines comedy and official Oscar entry. The film’s feisty and neo-soul musicians who
singing. He’s accompanied by heroine halts arrangements she’s are using their talents to speak
Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: Supplied
multi-instrumentalist Wesley van making for her own burial in order out against challenges faced by
der Westhuizen, but the songs to drum up resistance against the today’s youth. The stage will be
are Schalk originals. Whether he building of a dam that will force her set up outside Heritage Café,
can sing them without audiences entire village to be resettled. It’s at 25 Constitution Hill; noon till
laughing at him is another story. cinemas from 21 May. 7pm, free entry. 073 597 6429,
computicket.com numetro.co.za, sterkinekor.com rhythmnpoetry68@gmail.com
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 9RR D
SE R N
A ND GR
The EASY-EATING-ALL-DAY-CAFE.
Welcome to the Morning Glory
Cafe - we’re serving up the best
www.m
Park C d, Johanne
brunch and the sexiest coffee on
Parkw
the block.
orner,
oo
orning n Smuts Av
Our menu is all about
146 Ja burg
easy-eating, and fun flavour
-gl
combinations that will make you
or y-ca
feel at home.
s
fe.com e,
en
uNEW TASTE SENSATIONS EXPERIENCE
New
kids
on the
block
Buck the order-in trend with flavours conjured up
at these tasty culinary newcomers
Meet the dumplings In the eye of the beholder
Dumpling is a catch-all At the V&A Waterfront Food Market,
for a family of wrapped The Ugly Dumpling has ‘cult food
or pocket-style morsels experience’ written all over it – chef
originating in China. Dim Sepial Shim serves up all kinds of fresh
sum, a Cantonese invention, dumplings and bao buns for takeaway
are typically made with (and delivery). While the traditional pork
rice flour and served in dumplings are evergreen favourites,
bamboo steamers. Those Sepial has a knack for experimenting
fan-shaped dumplings (also with available ingredients and coming
called pot-stickers) are up with frankly enthralling combinations
called jiaozi. Wontons are (Pak-choi and prawn? Yes, please!
the round dumplings with a Calamari and spring onion? Absolutely!),
thin pastry wrapper. Baozi, plus she does fried mushroom
or bao, are yeast-leavened dumplings, Korean-style fried chicken
(usually steamed) buns and bao (like little chicken burgers), pork
can be stuffed with almost katsu, chicken wonton soup, and maybe
anything, pork being a fresh seaweed and cucumber salad.
most popular. uglydumplingza.com
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 11EXPERIENCE NEW TASTE SENSATIONS
Rise and shine
Morning Glory in
Parkwood is basically
the golden retriever
of Joburg coffee
shops – easy on the
eye and destined to
always make you
feel warm and fuzzy.
Of course, here
the comforts are
caffeine-related, and
instead of golden
blonde, you’re in for
lots of white subway
tiles offset by pastel
pink. Plus, breakfasts
to kick-start your day
just the way a hug
from a doe-eyed dog
might do.
morning-glory-cafe.com
Table for one?
Look, we get it, everyone
has their thing. You don’t
do carbs because Tim
said ‘No!’ and that yoga
instructor you follow on
Instagram has taken you
to the edge of veganism,
while your trainer at the
gym is all keto-to-the-max.
Well, at Nadia Singh’s
Bespokery in Parkview
you can pick a different
dietary disposition for
every day of the week.
They are here to cater
to the fussy, the strict,
and the intolerant, and
everyone walks out feeling
satisfied by chef Michael
Hibbins’s food, no matter
how bespoke your eating
habits. bespokery.co.za
12 M AY 2 0 2 1 kulula.comNEW TASTE SENSATIONS EXPERIENCE
Art of the view
If you’re in Durban, head
north to Umhlanga’s Danté Swish, savvy,
for instant holiday vibes
thanks to the tropical
Swedish
A Swedish chef named
views through large picture
Jesper and a sommelier
windows. Plus, there’s a
named Mario. Put them
matching atmosphere inside
together in this chic space
of year-round beach-bum
on Kloof Street, and the
celebratory magic spread
result is ëlgr, a place of
across three floors of varying
serious culinary spoils.
degrees of elegance and fun.
You cannot go wrong.
Each space affords a slightly
elgr.co.za
different hit – so whether
you want to be around cigar
smokers, spirits sippers or
the languid lunch crowd,
there’s a spot catering to your
prevailing mood. There’s a
gin garden, too and another
bar on the roof – views and Keep on turning
a dreamy crowd will follow Proud Mary in Rosebank, Joburg, turns
you around. Also, importantly, heads with its bold colours, rich fabrics,
there is head chef Kyle wood and brass, but it’s the food by one-
Govender’s kitchen expertise time Jamie Oliver HQ chef, Christo Nortier,
– applied to the likes of that really makes Mary proud. Order several
his surf-and-turf espetada small plates to share: tender sticky pork
(linefish, prawns, and belly with teriyaki, perhaps prawns in XO
30-day aged beef skewered butter. Something slightly bigger? The
and served with house-cut porchetta – oven-roasted pork belly stuffed
chips, roasted garlic and with pistachio and mortadella – is a favourite.
seaweed butter). Plus, epic breakfasts like the spread
thedanteexperience.co.za below. From zhooshed-up beans-on-toast,
to green shakshuka, or a good old ‘Proud
English’ breakfast, nothing here is average.
proudmary.co.za
Embark for adventure
In Parkhurst, Embarc affords ‘fine
dining’ sans pretence. The menu
has hints of decadence but the
flavours (pork belly served with
Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: Supplied
polenta; ostrich fillet with Malay
pumpkin wontons) are down to
earth. Sweets? If you’re at all
adventurous, you’ll need to try
the onion caramel tart with blue
cheese ice cream at least once.
embarcrestaurantza.com
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 13Only Fedhealth allows you to choose
how, and how much, you pay
for day-to-day benefits.
In times like these, you do need medical aid. And you need to know exactly what
you pay for, and what you get.
Take Fedhealth for example. It’s the only medical aid that lets you choose between a FIXED
contribution for your day-to-day savings, so you pay the same every month like every other
scheme, or FLEXIBLE, where you can save thousands upfront by only paying for day-to-day
savings when you actually need it.
With Fedhealth, YOU create your perfect medical aid. From the benefits you want, to how…
and how much… you pay. It’s all YOURS to control.
Want to switch to medical aid that YOU create and YOU control?
Call Fedhealth today on 0860 002 153
or visit fedhealth.co.za to find out more.
Create your aid.MARINE ADVENTURE EXPLORE
EXPLOREHere. There. Everywhere.
Jackass Pampered to within Uh, no, scratch that.
symphony? an inch of your life… They’re not donkeys,
Epic breakfasts with they’re jackass penguins,
dizzying sea views, or – more accurately
cushy sofas in dreamy – African penguins.
lounges, a heated Tintswalo Boulders,
plunge pool… Plus, a gorgeous luxury
the plushest linens, guesthouse in Simon’s
perfectly contouring Town, overlooks their
Ultimate pillows and bathrobes protected colony at
penguin lookout! that’ll stave off the Foxy Beach, setting you
cruellest cold of the just metres from the
coming winter. And, shore. All through 2021,
should you leave your they’re offering a two-
windows open, you’ll night Marine Exploration
be serenaded by the package, with snorkelling
mellifluous sound and kayaking among
of the sea, and the other inclusions; read
vaguely perceptible more about the
braying of donkeys… guesthouse and the
Wait! What? adventure on
page 23.
Words: Keith Bain, Picture: Supplied
Designer digs in Jozi 17 How wild can you go? 37
kulula.com
PLUS Spa daze 31 M AY 2 0 2 1 15LILIAN LOFTS
WELCOMES YOU
Lilian Lofts, in the heart of Johannesburg’s CBD, is a contemporary hotel
committed to delivering excellent personal service
Lilian Lofts offers superb luxury modern FEATURES SHOPPING
contemporary loft-style accommodation. • Wi-Fi • Dragon City
The executive apartments are fitted
with all the comforts of a modern hotel.
• Spa • China City
Lilian Lofts is focused on service and
• 16 two-bedroom self-catering rooms • The Oriental Plaza
tailor-made packages to accommodate all • 6 twin rooms • Fordsburg Flea Market
travellers’ requirements. • 7 loft units
• 12 one-bedroom apartments
• Portuguese Restaurant ENTERTAINMENT
Centrally situated in the heart
of Fordsburg with Newtown, • Conference venue • Joburg Theatre
Braamfontein and Mayfair within • Tours and transfers • Gold Reef City
walking distance, the hotel’s location • 30 min to O R Tambo • The Orbit Jazz Club
is perfect. Its proximity to the Oriental International Airport
• Township Tours
Plaza and China City makes it an
ideal choice of accommodation
for travellers, wholesalers and ATTRACTIONS
business people. Fordsburg is a • Apartheid Museum
multicultural suburb filled with a wealth • Cultural Attractions
of history, offering visitors a truly • Local Oriental dining experience
special experience. • Arts on Main
Contact: Lilian Lofts
48 Lilian Road, Fordsburg, Johannesburg 010 109 7788 Cell: 076 202 1450
info@lilianlofts.africa www.lilianlofts.comSLICK SLEEPING SPACES EXPLORE
A BITE OF AFRICA’S BIG APPLE
REST ASSURED
1. Fine design in Sandton
Boutique in scale, yet
oozing wit, imagination and
a clear sense of knowing
how to stand out from
the crowd, The Mighty
Fine is Joburg’s most
anticipated 2021 hotel
opening. Due to launch
in Strathavon, Sandton,
there’s a timelessness in
the way this swanky new Looks-wise, a stunner,
61-room hotel has been but the hotel is set to be
put together under the eye a scene-stealer beyond
of award-winning interior merely being easy on the
designer Tristan du Plessis. eye. It’s conceived of as
part-hotel, part hang-out,
with all sorts of cosy
spaces in which to work,
meet, or share a moment.
Emphasis will be on how
it looks after guests,
making you feel at home,
fawned over like a VIP
with all the fun of being
part of the family.
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 17EXPLORE SLICK SLEEPING SPACES
Starvin’,
Marvin?
Things about The Mighty Fine a co-working space in the lobby.
Rather than fine dining,
that’ll make you smile? Swish The aim, say its creators, is to
The Mighty Fine has
studios and suites that feel like forge a sense of community.
partnered with the
home-away-from-home hideaways. OMG factor? There’ll be a
team from Parkwood’s
Thoughtful touches and bespoke podcast studio that you can hire.
Morning Glory (see
everything – artworks hand-picked Not for you if… you prefer old-
page 12) to provide a
by Latitudes, chairs by David world nostalgia, clunky antiques
chic, delicious café-
Krynauw, furnishings and fittings and doilies on the tables. There’s
style experience at the
from the likes of Dokter and Misses a chic, clean contemporary
in-house restaurant,
and The Urbanative. Plus, a mix of aesthetic here.
Hank Marvin – good,
tip-top, locally sourced amenities How deep are your pockets?
wholesome, creative,
for spoiling yourself, as well as The hotel’s scheduled March
flavour-focused food
smart digital enhancements to opening didn’t happen, but like all
without pretence and
make you feel like you’re part of good things, it’ll be worth waiting
open all day. Plus,
the future. for, and pocket-friendly pricing is
there’s an out-of-the-
And laugh? Among the promised. themightyfine.co.za
ordinary ‘treehouse’
creative collaborators involved in
watering hole. Because
conceptualising the hotel’s art and
ordinary won’t cut it.
design is the frankly very funky
creative duo Jana + Koos whose
sense of playful ingenuity will add
another layer of daring fun to what
guests can expect, both in their
rooms and throughout the hotel.
Expect sophisticated humour and
bold touches designed to raise
a chuckle.
Good to know? It’s designed to
feel intimate and personal with a
community buzz, a public pool, and
18 M AY 2 0 2 1 kulula.comSLICK SLEEPING SPACES EXPLORE
2. An oasis in Fordsburg
Fordsburg, near Jozi’s CBD, has
a long and significant place in
It’s where you can escape into a
the city’s often bruised history.
chic, clean-lined oasis of subdued
Apart from once housing mine
colours and moody lighting. Its
workers and later becoming a site
grey, dark-hue palette is offset
of apartheid resistance, it’s where
by black metal, blonde recycled
Gandhi and 3 000 supporters
wood, smatterings of colour, and
burned their ‘pass’ documents
plush seating. It’s a human-sized
at the Hamidia Mosque in 1908.
hotel, with just 38 suites in a
Today it’s known as a vibrant multi-
variety of categories according to
cultural hub – public art, Indian
how much space you require. You
restaurants, and endless shopping
can even have your own in-room
for fabrics, bridal outfits, silk
kitchenette, with steps leading
flowers, almost anything… Now this
from your cushy lounge to a loft-
colourful suburb can also claim one
style bedroom. Book an executive
of the city’s newest, funkiest hotels,
suite if you crave every possible
Lilian Lofts.
comfort (and need space for four
Things about Lilian Lofts that’ll
people) – it’s like having your
make you smile? Done out in
own apartment.
an audacious industrial style, the
Good to know? Most places
hotel affords instant access to
in Fordsburg observe Muslim
the adventure of Fordsburg. And
prayer times on Fridays. The hotel,
it is also a refuge from the bustle.
including its kitchen and soon-to-
Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: Supplied
launch restaurant, is fully
halaal; there’s also an on-site
Namaaz room.
How deep are your pockets?
We found a twin room from just
R791 in mid-May; a family-size
suite that sleeps four was R1 620,
including breakfast. lilianlofts.com
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 19KAGISO LEDIGA MEET
Brave
new
world You’re never too
old to learn
Hello! Dumelang! It’s me, Kagiso Lediga!
Something I’ve figured out since becoming a father
is that everything we parents say and do gets
absorbed by our children. Whether we speak and
act mindfully, or furnish their young minds with
garbage, a lot of what goes in is on us.
I’m a storyteller, that’s my thing. And as South
Africans, we always have a lot of stories to tell.
Funny stories, gripping stories, a lot of tragic
stories. That’s South Africa – a weird and wonderful
place that was dropped on its head as a baby.
Some of the damage is because of the garbage
drummed into us early on – dodgy beliefs that
became our reality. Most of us can afford to unlearn
quite a lot. In the process, we’d make space for new
ideas, new ways of seeing the world. This month
I turn 43, and – eish! – saying that out loud might
sound old if you’re still in your twenties, but there
comes a point when you realise that ‘old’ isn’t a
number, it’s a state of mind.
The older you get, the more you realise you don’t
know it all. Last year, just as the thrill of dropping
my Netflix action series, Queen Sono, was washing
over me, there came a global crisis that brought us
all to our knees. At such times, it makes sense to
Picture: Sven Kristian
make space for new ideas, new ways of thinking.
Because, in the blink of an eye, everything can
change and when it does, you don’t want to be
weighed down by garbage.
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 21ADVERTORIAL
Whale View Manor Guesthouse lies among three of the
Cape’s ecological treasures: Cape Peninsula Nature
Reserve, Boulders Beach (famed for its Jackass Penguin
colony), and False Bay (calving ground of the Southern
Right Whale). Overlooking a beautiful swimming beach
from where guests can watch penguins, seals and, of
course, Whale.
Whale View Manor Guesthouse is ideally located,
nestled between Fisherman’s Beach and the mountains,
it is only three minutes away from historical Simon’s
Town and forty minutes from Cape Town International
Airport by car.
The constant motion of the sea or the still calmness of
the surrounding mountain are the privileged views from
the en suite bedrooms.
CONTACT US
402 Main Road, Murdoch Valley, Simonstown 021 786 3291
reservations@whaleviewmanor.co.za www.whaleviewmanor.co.zaA WATER WONDERLAND EXPLORE
Below
Keith Bain embraces
the chill and snorkels
with Simon’s Town
coolest creatures
What is it? One
degree? Minus two?
Somewhere in the freeze-my-butt-off
zone, that’s for sure.
We’ve been in the water just a few
minutes and I am shivering. A typical
Durban-born ninny, spoiled by a
childhood spent in the Indian Ocean. I’ve
been assured (and had this corroborated
by a meteorological website) that it’s
actually a balmy 13 degrees. Celsius. It
strikes me that numbers are meaningless
when it comes to physical experience. My
blood is warm and I feel the cold.
Still, I suck down the sense of rising
anxiety, slough off the shivers, prime
myself for the joyous act of underwater
discovery; it is, after all, a beautiful
day in Simon’s Town and the little cove
we’re snorkelling in is presumably full
of wonders waiting to be glimpsed just
below the surface.
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 23EXPLORE A WATER WONDERLAND
Besides, we’re in good hands, being
guided by conservationists from Shark
Warrior Adventures, an eco-exploration
outfit based on Seaforth Beach.
I recall my water-baby friend Pippa’s
consoling words: ‘A cold internal fire will
keep you warm; your body just needs to
remember how to withstand the cold.’
Apparently, withstanding the cold just
requires a bit of Zen-like mastery. Mind
over matter.
It works. For a while, at least. But I do
find myself wondering if I should resort
to that old scuba trick and wee in my
wetsuit, put a little bit of warm liquid
between myself and the cold Atlantic.
I hang in there, though, because our
guide, Terry, is showing us one curious
creature after another. Between the
gigantic kelp fronds, it is indeed another
universe. Fish dart this way and that,
sunlight glinting off their silvery scales,
some with vibrant patterns in splendid
colours, others designed to blend in with
the green kelp or the dark rocks. When
Terry shows us a spiny starfish and lets
us hold it, I feel it shaping itself to grip
gently around my fingers and I’m in awe.
At one point, I turn to face a little patch
of beach and mentally convince a pair
of penguins to join me in the water. True
as anything, they hop into the water
and swim to within metres of my face. I
almost forget to clear my snorkel.
I tell myself that if these little birds
can withstand the cold for hours at a
stretch, I can manage for a while longer.
Surely? ‘See the penguin,’ I tell myself.
‘Be the penguin!’
Of course, my newfound spirit animals
have their own agenda and have more
important things to do than help me
regulate my internal thermostat. Without
warning, they duck below the surface
and are heading towards their fish
hunting grounds far out to sea.
24 M AY 2 0 2 1 kulula.comyour safety is our number 1 priority
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Open Source IntelligenceA WATER WONDERLAND EXPLORE
When penguins hop into the water and
swim to within metres of my face, I almost
forget to clear my snorkel
Things get even more We try to swim
exciting, though, when after it for a while,
Terry signals watching it glide
our group effortlessly between the
to rally in his rocks and seaweed, and
direction. Half then it disappears.
of us are thinking this will be the moment when I stick my head above the
we meet some distant cousin of the mollusc surface, feeling my heart racing
who starred in My Octopus Teacher. The rest with excitement; seeing this creature
of us assume we’re about to see the sharks in the wild like this had felt otherworldly,
Terry is trying to find. When we catch up with like I’d been exploring another planet.
him, though, the thrilled expression on his Suddenly I hear one of the other snorkelers,
face tells me there’s something altogether more someone who surfs and dives regularly,
unusual below the surface. turning to Terry and shouting out: ‘Do you
I dip down, my lower jaw now chattering mind if we start heading back? I’m getting
uncontrollably from the cold. There’s a large really cold!’
shadow-like something down there, dead still, Only then do I remember my body, as though
but somehow too perfectly shaped, too thin and I’d temporarily left it behind. I’m jolted back
flat to be a rock. And then it moves, glides, starts into reality, and realise that my knuckles are
to soar. It flaps its enormous wings, drifting white. I am managing, but very cold and it’s a
like some alien spacecraft set adrift among the relief when I finally walk out of the water back
stars. As it takes off through the water, streaks on to Seaforth Beach. Even after someone
of white on its underside become visible. It is helps peel the wetsuit off my body, I am still
utterly gorgeous. And reasonably deadly if it shivering and shaking like the Durban ninny
should lift its tail – a sting ray, Terry tells us, one I am.
of the biggest he’s ever seen. But at least I haven’t peed in my wetsuit.
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 27EXPLORE A WATER WONDERLAND
And also above… Alliance) to stave off the ravages Bed down with penguins
They don’t call themselves Shark of human-manifested destruction. Cradled within a fynbos-covered
Warrior Adventures because They keep beaches clean, protect landscape and with just ten suites,
they’re out there fighting sharks. penguin-occupied boulders and Tintswalo Boulders puts you
Quite the opposite. They’re here nesting areas, and take visitors right in the heart of the penguin
– on penguin-inhabited Seaforth on walks along the coast so they action – plus all those dreamy
Beach in Simon’s Town – to can learn more about the birds views of the ocean and a heart-
educate humans about the worth that have made this part of Cape thumping soundtrack of crashing
of marine life, and that includes Town such a draw. They also run surf that continually reminds
the apex predators that are so land-based adventures, always you just how close to the water
badly misunderstood. Apart from with an eco-sensitive mind-set. you really are. Don’t mistake
snorkelling adventures, they run These include day tours of Cape this for any ordinary beach
guided kayak and SUP tours of the Point, fynbos mountain hikes, and bungalow B&B, though – it comes
locality, and the conservationists also multi-day sea kayaking tours with every imaginable luxury,
who mind this eco-venture do all up the West Coast and five-night including scrumptious beds in
sorts of work (in collaboration kayaking missions on the Garden individually styled, graciously laid
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dining for when you don’t head
out to explore the local culinary
landscape. What you will want
to do while you’re here is sink
Pictures: Shark Warrior Adventures, Lesley Rachat, Jon Monsoon, Supplied
your toes into the sand, watch
the African penguins waddling
across the rocks, and meet the
folks at Shark Warrior Adventures
(they’re a short stroll beyond the
garden gate). You can also curl up
and simply witness it all from the
intimate rooftop terrace where
there’s a heated pool and views
that go on forever. Downstairs,
a variety of lounges, terraces,
nooks, huge picture windows
facing the sea, and quiet garden
spaces provide opportunities
for deep reflection.
tintswalo.com
28 M AY 2 0 2 1 kulula.com01 - 30 MAY ‘21
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‘D
o you have a massage for me?’ is probably were of panpipes wafting in through cleverly hidden
not the best question to ask when you find speakers. Though, to be honest, I could have done
yourself outside a backstreet pummel with less of the panpipes and more of the silence.
parlour in Cape Town’s wildlands. But The massage was bliss, the therapist expertly
throwing caution to the wind, and looking for a good yarn, rolling my aching muscles under her strong hands.
State
I plunged in. The oil used was a secret blend and
I should have walked on by. Led into a the aroma was hard to place. There
back room, far from the essential oils and was a pepper, a mint, and a wild
aromatherapy calm one expects of a spa, the sage to it. At least, that is what it
of
bouquet was one of dirty feet, sweaty socks. smelled like.
It turned out to be the best thing about the Afterwards, in a state of consummate
whole experience. The toupee-wearing relaxation, I slid down the hall to the
therapist – let’s call him Bruce – splashed recovery room, my legs a liquid shade
bliss
oregano oil on to my back and told me it of comfort. Here, the tasty, healthy,
was a good liver detox. Then he proceeded nibbly bits and fizz were designed
to, well, pummel me, accompanied by the to be the bridge between the sheer
trills of the harmonica coming from the flat indulgence of a massage and the
upstairs and what sounded like a bar brawl real world.
outside. It took a week for my bowels to settle. For a state of calm mindfulness and repose, there is
It took about a year before I ventured near a spa again. little better than a full-body massage under the expert
But venture I did, and this time around it was a far more hands of a properly trained and qualified therapist.
delicious affair. Walking into the sun-drenched lobby, I Everything should be designed for your pleasure, from
was consumed by the aroma of fynbos – surely from the the muted colours of the spa and the dimmed lighting,
oils and unctions used in the treatments. The serenity to the thick carpets muffling the sounds of walking.
was instantly calming. This was going to be good – but Even the low murmur of other voices dialled down to
it was better than good. Disrobing in my own cubicle, I almost inaudible. This is how a spa experience should
buried myself in the soft, fluffy gown neatly folded on the play out, a soundtrack to a zen-like peace.
chair. And was led to the therapy room. Here the sounds If you love someone, send them to a spa.
Leave your stress zone behind with the
Lorraine Kearney spa guide
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 31EXPLORE BEYOND THE PUMMEL PARLOUR
Beach, please!
Since there are few
more relaxing places
A spa safari Like it hot? on earth than the
Looking to spoil mum In Chintsa, on the Wild Wild Coast, you may
Rewild in Ballito this Mother’s Day? Coast, Crawfords Beach be tempting a coma
The thing about the The signature Luxury Lodge offers a blissful by going in for the
Esse Concept Store in Mini Package at The hot stone massage at its ‘bathing ritual’ at the
Ballito is that it only Gwahumbe Spa – at the Senses Spa – the warmth Umngazi Spa. Perched
uses Esse products, Gwahumbe Reserve in and muscle tingles will on a hilltop – the highest
designed in Richmond, Illovo, KwaZulu-Natal – leave you feeling refreshed point of the entire
KwaZulu-Natal. They’re includes a 45-minute spa and rejuvenated. And then Umngazi resort (more
organic, they’re vegan, treatment, a two-course there’s that glass of bubbly about that on page
they’re probiotic, and lunch with wine, and a and an indoor Jacuzzi 41) – the spa offers the
they’re beautiful. The game drive, so the most to remove any residual opportunity to relax in
Esse Experience and important woman in your stress. Afterwards, take a bath overlooking the
the Ultimate Esse life will get to experience a walk on the beach beach and the ocean.
Experience are the the whole of Gwahumbe. and watch the Indian With sliding doors flung
two signature facial Located in the African Ocean crash against wide open to allow the
treatments, and both bush, the spa overlooks the shore. It’s about an sounds of the sea in, it’s
use pre- and probiotics stunning valley views. hour from East London. pure magic. And then
to improve the microbial It’s a relaxing, peaceful crawfordsbeachlodge.co.za there are all those well-
balance of the skin. Talk spot totally immersed in trained hands offering
these days is often about nature. And it is just an extensive therapies and
rewilding. Well, Esse is hour from Durban – an treatments combined
on a mission to rewild easy day trip. with delicious aromas
your skin, by helping gwahumbe.co.za (and sublime sea views)
to imbue you with a – the allure of perfect
healthy skin microbiome. pampering is ceaseless.
esseskincare.com umngazi.co.za
32 M AY 2 0 2 1 kulula.comBEYOND THE PUMMEL PARLOUR EXPLORE
Spa in a stable
It made its mark thanks
to the curvaceous roof of
its pretty chapel, and now
Bosjes – a guest farm at
the foot of the Waaihoek
Mountain in the Breede
Valley, some 28km from
Ceres – has added a spa.
Located in the farm’s
Seaside shhh… The spa journey original stables, Die
The Sea Whisperer The Saxon Spa, at
Stalle has two treatment
treatment at the Suncoast Joburg’s Saxon Hotel,
rooms, a sauna and
Hotel Spa in Durban is an oasis of calm in a
offers a fusion of different city known for its buzz.
Rasul chamber, all Sip and spa
imaginatively rendered In the foothills of Cape
types of massage styles Its Signature Journeys
by interior designer Town’s gentle Steenberg,
from around the world. are utterly unique
Liam Mooney to create next door to the Norval
The signature treatment experiences, and the
a seriously sublime Foundation art gallery,
uses aromatic oils and Digital Detox Journey
sanctuary. While you the Steenberg Spa is on a
a relaxing massage is the first of its kind in
can make a day of it, wine farm, so there’s an
technique that trades in the country. It includes
you could also dip into inherent understanding
long strokes, thumb and a mindfulness exercise,
one of their packages of the role played by
palm pressure to relieve a full-body exfoliation, a
Pictures: Claire Gunn, Supplied
– two nights in the nature and the elements
stress and recharge your combination of silicone
boutique guesthouse, in making us feel at
body, mind and spirit. cupping and deep tissue
breakfast, dinner, full- peace. The setting is
Finish with a cocktail on massage and finally a
body massage, hydrating totally sublime and so,
the pool deck or hit the lymphatic drainage. It
facial, and a hydrotherapy in addition to serene
Promenade for a stroll. sounds like a lot, but no
session. A perfect indoor therapy rooms,
tsogosun.com doubt it is worth every
Mother’s Day treat. Steenberg offers (weather
minute. Round it off with
bosjes.co.za permitting, of course)
a high tea in the Piano
outdoor spa treatments in
Lounge. saxon.co.za
its scented garden, as well
as poolside manis and
pedis. It even has mini spa
treatments for your mini
me. Don’t forget to take a
turn at the Norval when
you’re done; or perhaps
you’ll simply want to
settle in for lunch on the
estate or grab a suite for
the night.
steenbergfarm.com
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ESCAPE TO PARADISE
e: requests@umngazi.co.za | t: +27 (0)47 564 1115/6/8/9
w w w. u m n g a z i . c o . z a
@umngaziA WILD AND AN UNTAMED THING EXPLORE
This I
did the Wild Coast. And I did
it all wrong. Well, perhaps I
didn’t do it all wrong but if I did
it again, I’d do a couple things
ain’t
differently.
For one, I’d only venture ankle deep
into the sea. Provided I could resist
the call of these endless oceans,
how
that is. I say this after hearing about
someone being mauled by a shark in
knee-deep water in a gentle estuary
stream somewhere along the coast,
and about dangerous Wild Coast
you
riptides. These ferocious seas have
claimed countless nautical victims.
There was the ill-fated Oceanos
in 1991: Captain Yiannis Avranas
do it
famously abandoned ship, leaving
rescue operations to the vessel’s
musos and magician who managed
– abracadabra – to heroically help
save all 571 people onboard.
Nicci Collier does th
eW
ild C
oa
st
all
wro
kulula.com M ay 2 0 2 1 37
ngEXPLORE A WILD AND AN UNTAMED THING
And the ostensibly ‘unsinkable’ Waratah
steamship, the ‘Titanic of the South’,
which lived up to the same fate and
disappeared off the Wild Coast in 1909, its
wreckage never found.
Make no mistake, the Wild Coast is
not so-called for the long-horned bulls
plodding (and pooping!) unattended
across the beaches. The famous
Pondoland cattle, kept in kraals at vessel returning from India in 1608. Clockwise from top left
night and released at dawn, return Shards of Chinese Ming porcelain and The famed Hole-in-
the-Wall near Coffee
around midday for milking, then carnelian beads can still be scavenged
Bay; Wild Coast
stroll beachwards in the afternoon. near the Quko River mouth at low tide. I beachcombers will share
Photographer Christopher Rimmer, who returned empty-handed, but with a full the shore with Pondoland
studied and documented the cattle, says heart. Nothing compares to having an cattle; the riverside
of this mysterious habit, ‘As resistant as I immaculate wilderness like this practically bar deck at Umngazi;
am to anthropomorphising, I could come to oneself. a wild beach ride with
to no other conclusion than: the bulls visit My second mistake? Driving to Double Wild Coast Horse Riding
Adventures; endless
the beach daily because they simply enjoy Mouth in a Yaris. It’s doable, but a four-
views from Prana Lodge
being there.’ wheeler would certainly navigate the
On a cow-free morning, I hiked the rocky, ditch-riddled road better. I make it to
Double Mouth Nature Reserve (from the ‘the cliffs’ for sundowners that evening but
inviting Morgan Bay campsite to Bead only thanks to the kindness of strangers:
Beach) in search of treasure from the Alex, who offers a lift. Warren provides
Santo Espiritu – a doomed Portuguese the G’nTs, and his cousins host me for a
braai that night. I’d already suspected that
there’s just something different about Wild
Coast-ers. In a really good, unbelievably
kind, ultra-hospitable way. And these new
friends only confirm it.
From the Umngazi River boat driver
whose convincing fish eagle cry lures the
magnificent birds into sight, to Nikki and
Erica at Morgan Bay Hotel’s reception desk
(they print dinner menus each day
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Love exclusive deals? Sign up to kulula.com/fanmailA WILD AND AN UNTAMED THING EXPLORE
with a personalised message to each
guest), everyone here feels like family.
Perhaps it’s because this is the land
of my forebears? Granny Wendy grew
up in the Transkei – her father was the
magistrate, and Freemantle High School
in Lady Frere was named in his honour
(whether this honour was for his habit of
performing headstands on bar counters
or his magisterial work, we will never
know). Mount Ayliff, Lady Frere, Mthatha,
Queenstown… All place names I recall my
grandmother bandying about when she
spoke of her childhood. Several of them
went hurtling past the Yaris’s window as Serene sleeps Morgan Bay Hotel
it dodged goats, donkeys and potholes Morgan Bay is a dream
on this road trip. It made me think of my Umngazi River for nature lovers, with
Pictures: Keith Bain, South African Tourism, Wild Coast Horse Riding Adventures, Supplied
Granny as a baby, traversing these same Bungalows and Spa a mile-long stretch of
green hills almost a century ago – To sample the Wild beach and magnificent
by ox-wagon! Coast’s pleasures without cliffs crisscrossed with
It wasn’t all giddy sessions on bumpy roughing it at all, check hiking and MTB trails.
roads, though. There was the pure joy in at this charming family Select from a variety
of fattening myself on the Morgan Bay resort on the Umngazi of bed combinations to
Hotel’s generous meals and reading to the River mouth. Set within its suit your group in the
sound of crashing waves in the beautiful own nature reserve and spacious, tastefully
‘Quiet Lounge; No Children’. And all that flanked by dense coastal decorated rooms,
gracious time spent at Umngazi, a slice vegetation, it overlooks and enjoy a plethora
of tropical paradise whose natural good an estuary and beach, of activities on offer,
looks are matched by the resort’s raft of with boats for hire, and from rock climbing
endlessly fun activities – plus beach walks, waterskiing on offer. to fishing, canoeing
outdoor showers, unbeatable feasting Thatched bungalows (like to horse riding, bird
tables… Total escape. the beautiful Honeymoon watching to poolside
Ultimately, though, I think my biggest suite pictured above) have tanning.
mistake by far was that my Wild Coast outdoor showers and are morganbayhotel.co.za
adventure was too short. Next time, I’ll set amongst indigenous
stay forever. gardens on the bank of Prana Lodge
the river, which is crossed In Chintsa, Prana Lodge
by boat for idyllic beach is a family-owned luxury
walks (ring the gong to hotel on a 17-acre
be fetched in time for private beach estate –
tea and cake). Explore just 40 minutes from
mangrove swamps, cast East London in a dreamy
a line, boat or canoe up dune forest. Top-notch
the river, unwind at the cuisine; private plunge
pool, indulge heartily at pools; restful, Persian-
mealtimes, join a torch-lit carpeted suites; and
crab hunt with the kids. direct beach access.
And don’t miss the spa. Plus a pamper-perfect
umngazi.co.za spa. pranalodge.co.za
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 41KINGJAMES 52135
ep
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dy
ut tu
at io es
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Add flight
tickets to your
shopping list.
Go to your nearest Pick n Pay supermarket or Hypermarket
to book your next kulula.com domestic flight in-store.
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Travellers must adhere to the Covid-19 travel protocols stipulated by government to be allowed to fly.
Ts and Cs apply. E&OE.SHORTS THAT MATTER DISCOVER
DISCOVER People. Ideas. Things.
What’s the buzz?
Forget the navel-gazing, these
swimming shorts are doing their bit
to give bees a chance. Having seen
from the inside how South Africa’s
garment industry took a tumble,
conservation-minded Jeff Liss
has applied his textile and fashion
know-how to create Chasing
Bees, a family business producing
a sustainable range of casual-
but-buzzworthy clothing and
accessories such as kikois. Aside
from doing their bit to support
local producers and crafters, a
percentage of their earnings goes
to Ujubee, a research organisation
studying wild bees and other
pollinators. Their research feeds
into a global initiative to protect the
planet’s biodiversity by preserving
Words: Keith Bain, Picture: Supplied
the genetic integrity of pollinating
species. The bees will be happy, but
so will you with your shorts made
from durable, comfortable, quick-
drying fabric and put together with
triple-stitched seams. Lovely prints,
too – check out more designs on
page 51.
Kamala’s mom 44 Briefs, bras, cups and saucers 47 Novel heroines 53
kulula.com M AY 2 0 2 1 43DISCOVER THE VP’S BELOVED
Her In this intimate extract from
her book, The Truths We Hold,
US Vice President Kamala
mother’s Harris highlights the part her
mother played in making her
who she is today. It’s dedicated
daughter to all the moms who are with
us, and those who are no more
44 M AY 2 0 2 1 kulula.comTHE VP’S BELOVED DISCOVER
M y mother’s condition worsened, she
needed more care than we could
provide. We wanted to hire a home
healthcare aide to help her – and me. But she didn’t
want help.
‘I’m fine. I don’t need anybody,’ she’d say, though
* From Penguin
Random House,
Kamala Harris’s
autobiographical The
she could barely get out of bed. There was a Truths We Hold: An
fight to be had about it, but I didn’t want to have American Journey
Extract courtesy of Penguin Random House, Picture: Lawrence Jackson, courtesy of the White House and the Office of the Vice President of the United States
it. Cancer – the disease she’d devoted her life to has recently been
defeating – was now wreaking havoc on her. Her republished in a new
body was giving out. The medication was making soft-cover edition.
it difficult for her to function – to be herself. I didn’t
want to be the one who took her dignity away. were all in a great state of delusion – especially
So we muddled through. I cooked elaborate me. I couldn’t bear to tell my mother no – not
meals for her, filling the house with the smells because she couldn’t take it, but because I couldn’t.
of childhood, reminding us both of happier times. Whether it was a question of bringing a nurse home
When I wasn’t at the office, I was usually with her, or staying in the nursing home or going to India, I
telling stories, holding hands, helping her through didn’t want to accept what saying no to her meant.
the chemotherapy misery. I didn’t want to accept that she was running out
I bought her hats after she lost her hair, and soft of time.
clothes to improve her comfort. One night, Maya, Tony, Meena, and I were all
at my mother’s house when Aunt Mary and Aunt
Lenore came for a visit. I cooked. I’ll never forget
that night – I was making beef stew. While the meat
She knew who she had raised. She knew her was cooking down in red wine, all of a sudden my
fighting spirit was alive and well inside me brain figured out what was happening around me. I
began hyperventilating – short breaths in and out. I
felt I might faint. Suddenly, the delusion was gone.
I had to face reality. I was going to lose my mother;
At one point, I had just gotten into the attorney there was nothing I could do.
general’s race and she asked me how it was going. We had called our uncle in India to let him know
‘Mommy, these guys are saying they’re gonna she was too sick to travel. He flew from Delhi to
kick my ass.’ see her. She waited for him to say goodbye. She
She’d been lying on her side. She rolled over, passed away the next morning.
looked at me, and unveiled the biggest smile. She One of the last questions she asked the hospice
knew who she had raised. She knew her fighting nurse, the last concern on her mind, was ‘Are my
spirit was alive and well inside me. daughters going to be okay?’ She focused on being
When it was time for hospice care, we took her our mother until the very end.
home and, finally, she let a hospice nurse come I miss her every day, carry her with me wherever
with us. Maya and I still didn’t believe that she could I go. I think of her all the time. Sometimes I look up
die, to the point that when she said she wanted to and talk to her. I love her so much. And there is no
go to India, we booked plane tickets and started title or honour on earth I’ll treasure more than to
planning her trip. We worked out how to get her on say I am Shyamala Gopalan Harris’s daughter. That
a plane, arranged for a nurse to accompany us. We is the truth I hold dearest of all.
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