THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019
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THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT PARIS JΑNUARY 2019 Rouge Incandescent Transformable Necklace by CHANEL in 18K white gold set with rubies and diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia . 5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA. www.chanel.com
Comparison between the gouache drawing and a work-in-progress, the Frosted Star Manchette by PIAGET; Sunlight Escape. www.piaget.com The January 2019 rendezvous for haute cou- ture and high jewellery has been quite surpris- ing in the sense that a few houses have intro- duced important collections that would usually fit July’s bigger event. As a result, we have been shown creations that warm both minds and hearts and can easily be categorised as excep- tional, in stark contrast with the snowy and gla- cial weather outside. We saw CHAUMET go back to its fundamentals with a superbly classic high jewellery collection, which is an extension of the Joséphine line and is centred on exploring the design of Empress Josephine’s tiara. CHANEL never has to go too far to find inspiration as delv- ing into the past of its founder always provides a successful outcome. This time the hero was the camellia flower, a favourite of Coco, which was the main motif in fifty pieces, of which twenty three were transformable. At CHOPARD, tech- nical prowess was the main focus with the of- ficial launch of the Chopard MAGICAL setting, a patented new way of bringing the most radi- ance and light from gemstones. Haute couture and haute joaillerie combined for REZA’s pre- sentation. By accessorising Alexis Mabille’s vi- brant dresses with their most recent creations, REZA contributed to a match made in heaven.
Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Diadem and matching Earrings both in 18K white gold, set with Akoya cultured pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA. www.chaumet.com At DAVID MORRIS, creations were grouped by co- lours so as to showcase one of their strong suits and the fact that their coloured gemstones are the real deal, i.e. unheated. BOUCHERON took the opportunity to open their refurbished flagship house (see my previous article: The reopening of 26, Place Vendôme or a home with a past poised to embrace the future, published earlier this year) to present their new fine jewellery line, Jack, as well as some new high jewellery renditions. It was a very private and secure affair at CINDY CHAO for the unveiling of both her 2018 Annual Butterfly and the dazzling Greenovia Brooch, a novelty with a 105-carat chrysoberyl cat’s eye. Delicacies were lavished on us at HARRY WINSTON, both literal- ly in the form of sweets and figuratively with one- of-a-kind cocktail rings from the new Candy col- lection. SUZANNE SYZ was once again a joy to meet, with great novelties especially earrings. At PIAGET, it felt like the end of a journey, the last chapter of Sunlight Escape and a beautiful con- clusion. Lastly, LYDIA COURTEILLE immersed us in a stylised reverie about the Dark Side of Marie Antoinette, and dark has never been more exqui- site in shades of blue.
Model wears Joséphine Aigrette www.chaumet.com Impériale Necklace in 18K white gold, set with one 3.28-carat pear-shaped pink sapphire from Madagascar, 21 pear- shaped EF VVS diamonds for a total weight of 10.87 carats and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Ring and matching Earrings also in 18K white gold, set with pear-shaped pink sapphires from Madagascar, pear-shaped diamonds and brilliant- Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Tiara in 18K white gold set with cut diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine pear-shaped pink sapphires and tsavorite garnets, pear- Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA. shaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA. Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Bracelet in 18K white gold set with pear-shaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA. Stepping into tradition and grand decorum is what Chaumet’s new collection, Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament, promises. It is the art of modernising jewels that are traditional- ly ceremonial and seen as the ultimate status symbols where the muse is none other than Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais, first wife of Napoleon, and whose parures for appearance in court were created by the French house. About one hundred pieces were presented, not in the Place Vendôme salons, which are be- ing refurbished, but in a temporary outpost, a grand house on the Saint-Germain-des-Prés boulevard. There on the first floor, the precious sets were showcased in a dark room so that the di- amonds and gemstones were all sparkling like a thousand stars. The Joséphine line was translated into three themes, the first being Joséphine Aigrette Impériale where the tiara emblem has inspired necklace, earrings and ring sets, an all-white diamond ensemble minus the central coloured stones (sapphire, ruby, em- erald, yellow diamond) or cultured pearls.
www.chaumet.com One-of-a-kind Joséphine Éclat Floral Earrings in platinum, set with 2 cushion- cut ‘Vivid Red Pigeon’s Blood’ rubies (weighing 1.70 and 1.65 carats) from Mozambique, 2 pear-shaped D VVS2 diamonds (weighing 0.73 and 0.70 carats) and brilliant- cut diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA. One of-a-kind Soir de Fête Cocktail Ring in 18K white gold set with one 17-carat blue sapphire from Madagascar, pear- One-of-a-kind Soir de Fête shaped white diamonds, and Necklace in 18K white gold brilliant-cut white diamonds; set with ‘pigeon blood’ rubies Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au from Mozambique, pear-shaped Firmament collection. POA. white diamonds, and brilliant- cut white diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA. From the second strand of the Josephine for her wedding to Prince Sixtus of Bourbon- theme, Joséphine Éclat Floral, comes a ring of Parma. The fuchsia flower being an emblem consummate beauty with a central cushion-cut of enduring love, Chaumet extracted the mo- gemstone (ruby, sapphire, pink sapphire, dia- tif from the tiara to build the diamond-paved mond or yellow diamond) supported by white body of the necklaces. As one would expect, round- or pear-shaped diamonds. Lastly Soir the result is absolutely stunning, and two sets de Fête pour Joséphine, the most precious in particular deserve a nod. First, the Soir de line-up of one-of-a-kind neckpieces and rings, Fête necklace, set with ‘pigeon blood’ rubies which are inspired by the fuchsia tiara, made in from Mozambique, showcases the house sig- 1919 for Hedwige de la Rochefoucauld to wear nature style, the fil couteau.
www.chaumet.com Then the Joséphine Aigrette Impériale parure set with natu- Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Necklace, Ring, Earrings and Tiara ral pearls that were once part of a Chaumet-designed tiara, all in 18K set with natural pearls, re-purposed at the request of the owners, in a necklace that pear-shaped white diamonds, was then bought back by Chaumet. Now the rare pearls have and brilliant-cut white diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au been brought back to life in a necklace, earrings, tiara and Firmament collection. POA. ring. Let’s hope they are not going to be separated after be- ing united for more than a century.
www.chanel.com Rouge Incandescent Transformable Bracelet in 18K white gold and rose gold set with rubies and diamonds (the camellia is detachable and becomes a brooch – in its place a hidden cut-out camellia motif appears); 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA. It is said that the camellia motif made its first appearance in 1913 in a Chanel collec- tion. Since then, the alleged favourite flow- er of Coco Chanel has been repeatedly used in all areas of the French house, so much so that it is now indistinguishable from the Rouge Incandescent Ring in 18K white gold set with one luxury brand. As such, it was time to cele- ruby and diamonds; 1.5 – 1 brate the floral emblem in the most exclu- Camélia .5 Allures collection, sive part of the Chanel business, the high CHANEL Joaillerie. POA. jewellery realm. The 1.5 collection means 1 motif (the camellia) for 5 Allures, and the 50 pieces certainly deliver with 23 of them being transformable – in most cases, the camellia component can be detached and worn as a brooch or hair clip, revealing in its original place another motif. The simple colour palette is reminiscent of the Coco Avant Chanel high jewellery collection from 2017 with hints of soft pink (pink sapphires or pink quartz), yet it takes a more passion- ate turn with the incandescence of vivid red rubies. A note to self, rubies have indeed made a comeback in high jewellery collec- Rouge Incandescent Asymmetrical tions after a hiatus of a few seasons, partly earrings in 18K white gold set thanks to the rich Montepuez ruby deposit with rubies and diamonds; 1.5 – in northern Mozambique. 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.
www.chanel.com Quintessence Brooch in 18K white gold and rose gold set with diamonds and carved pink quartz; 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA. Révélation Diamant Transformable in 18K white gold set with diamonds (the camellia motif is detachable and becomes a brooch; the necklace can be short or long); 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Cristal Illusion Secret Allures collection, CHANEL Watch in 18K white gold Joaillerie. POA. with rock crystal and diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA. Rose Tendre Ring in 18K white gold and rose gold set with diamonds, carved pink quartz and cultured pearls); 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.
www.chanel.com Rose Poudré Transformable Necklace in 18K rose gold set with diamonds (the camellia motif is detachable and becomes a brooch; the camellia can also be affixed at different places on the necklace); 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA. Rose Poudré Earrings in 18K rose gold set with diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA. In order to demonstrate how versatile and transformable the 1.5 pieces are, the scenog- raphy for this collection was instructive with a series of screens showing photographs of a model demonstrating all the versions of how to wear the most prominent transform- able pieces. Dressed in elegant black Chanel attires, the model – a dancer by trade – was inhabiting the Chanel spirit and effortlessly showing how to style the jewels. The most precious necklaces were the long sautoirs, lariats, or multi-strand pieces, while ‘young- er’ versions (torque necklaces) with fewer Rose Intense Ring in gemstones had the same appeal. Worth not- 18K rose gold set with ing once again are the secret watches – an one pear-shaped pink sapphire and diamonds; area of expertise that Chanel has mastered 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures both in craftsmanship and desirability for collection, CHANEL their watches all have perfect proportions. Joaillerie. POA.
www.boucheron.com Jack Transformable Bracelet (1 wrap) in 18K yellow gold; Jack Bracelet or a Long Jack by Boucheron Necklace, 18K yellow collection. POA. gold set with diamonds; Jack by Boucheron collection. POA. Jack Bracelet (6 wraps) or Long Necklace – High jewellery version – in 18K white gold entirely set with 24 carats of Jack Transformable Bracelet diamonds; Jack by Boucheron (1 wrap) in 18K yellow gold collection. POA. set with diamonds; Jack by Boucheron collection. POA. In order to welcome the press into their mag- place their own. A couple were playing a game nificently refurbished mansion at 26 Place of chess in the dining room, young girls were Vendôme and present their novelties, the chatting away on the sofa in the living room, Boucheron team had the excellent idea to or- further models were in the bedroom and one ganise the presentation in the private apart- was pausing in the bathroom. All were wearing ment on the second floor (‘Le 26’ private apart- pieces from the new fine jewellery collection, ment is operated with the services of the Ritz Jack, except for the last girl who was trying on Paris, and is where the notion of family materi- the few new high jewels. A fresh approach for alises. The guests benefit from the full comfort a playful and cool line, Jack is composed of a of a private home and more, which means that tubular gold wire inspired by audio cables and they will be able to spend the night in this one- sealed by a stylised jeweller’s clasp and that of-a-kind sanctuary. Maison Boucheron collec- can be worn on the wrist, the neck or the waist. tors have always been treated as part of the “In yellow or white gold, wrapped round once, family; however, from now on, they will liter- three times or six times, on its own or in multi- ally be given the keys to the mansion), where ple combination, Jack winds round and unfolds the jewels were worn by models who made the as the mood takes you”, they say.
www.boucheron.com Nara La Biche Ring in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds and onyx; Couture collection. POA. Ivy Point D’Interrogation Necklace in 18K rose gold set with diamonds; Couture collection. POA. Even though Boucheron did not present a new high jewellery collection (the focus was on launching Jack by Boucheron, as well as intro- ducing a new colourway for Serpent Bohéme Delilah Necklace in 18K yellow gold set with with rhodolite garnets), they unveiled a few diamonds; Couture pieces: a re-edition (Delilah Necklace), a rose collection. POA. gold version of a previous creation (Ivy Point D’Interrogation Necklace) and an addition (Nara La Biche Ring).
www.chopard.com Pendant in 18K white gold set with Model from the Giambattista Valli Spring Earrings in 18K white gold diamonds and featuring a central 2019 Couture Show wearing the Earrings set with diamonds; Magical 3.4-carat diamond; Magical Setting in 18K white gold set with diamonds from Setting collection. POA. collection. POA. the Magical Setting collection. POA. Beside their Place Vendôme flagship store, in- hereby unleashing the full potential of the said side a salon whose entrance was entirely cov- gems in terms of light and lustre. “The collec- ered with fresh flowers and roses, Chopard tion offers a choice of jewels set with diamonds, unveiled not only new creations, but a revolu- sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Each cluster is tionary patented setting, the Magical Setting centred on a significant single stone and encir- (also the name of the new collection). The prin- cled throughout with unusually large stones”, ciple is based on redefining the traditional floral the teams explains. “The cluster is underpinned cluster motif by eliminating any sign of metal by a pioneering structure where the light can between each stone (“barely-there claws”) and flow freely in and out and around the gemstones, from the front and above; the stones seem held unimpeded by the opacity of metal constraints, together by none other than their counterparts, unfettered by demarcation.”
www.chopard.com A cluster of colourful Magical Setting Rings all in 18K white gold and set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds; Magical Setting collection. POA. What impresses most is how tightly arranged the gems are. This provides such lavishness and brilliance in one mass that the effect is quite tantalising even in the smallest ring. In other words, the Magical Setting multiplies the wow factor of the piece. When in an all-white dia- mond version, the rings come either in white or rose gold, and only in white gold when they in- clude coloured gems. In the latter case, the per- mutations between the central and surround- ing stones are endless as seen in the nine rings that mix the triumvirate of the most sough-af- ter coloured gems that are rubies, sapphires and emeralds with white diamonds. Magical Setting is the modern re-invention of a clas- sic, the most romantic pattern of all, the floral cluster.
www.harrywinston.com Original gouache, loose pink tourmaline stone and final Winston Candy Ring in 18K yellow gold and platinum set with the rare 11.22-carat oval- shaped pink tourmaline (impeccable colour saturation), 16 pear-shaped turquoises (1.98cts), 16 round pink sapphires (1.27cts), and 16 round brilliant-cut diamonds (3.72cts); Winston Candy by Harry Winston. POA. The presentation of Winston Candy by Harry shades. It could be seen as a new attempt by Harry Winston was heaven for anyone with a sweet Winston to extend their offering on the market of tooth. Let’s just start with the salon on the first precious coloured gems, since they are notably floor of Harry Winston’s Avenue Montaigne flag- best known for their white diamonds expertise, ship boutique, where jars filled with all the imag- but it would be missing the fact that the “inspi- inable candies of our childhood were taunting us ration for the collection began with a series of ar- from their counter along the main wall. It is in this chival sketches dating back to the 1950s and 60s very place (fitted with a bubble pink carpet for that featured brightly coloured cocktail rings in un- the occasion) that the other – non edible but pre- expected shades. The jewellery aesthetic at that cious – candies were displayed under domes. The time was about magnificence and grandeur and fact that there was just one cocktail ring under for Harry Winston that meant creating the most ex- each dome reinforced the notion of special deli- traordinary jewels, using signature techniques such cacy. Winston Candy rings feature rare fancy-co- as the pairing of fancy shaped stones with round loured central stones paired with a combination brilliants and the use of intriguing colour combina- of diamonds and vibrant gems in complementing tions”, the team says.
Archival gouaches from the 1950s www.harrywinston.com and 60s and inspirational basis for Winston Candy by Harry Winston. Winston Candy Ring in platinum set with one 19.67-carat cushion-cut green tourmaline (intense green and one of the most desirable shades), 8 round yellow sapphires (4.12cts), Winston Candy Ring in platinum set with 8 pear-shaped peridots (3.75cts) one 5.48-carat cushion-cut aquamarine and 76 round brilliant-cut diamonds (perfect ‘sea’ blue hue), 14 round blue (2.54cts); Winston Candy by Harry sapphires (1.29cts), 14 round aquamarines Winston. POA. and 14 pear-shaped diamonds (2.10cts); Winston Candy by Harry Winston. POA. The 28 displayed rings are all one-of-a-kind, the house’s history. Each ring is indeed a kind of showcasing bold colour contrasts, varied specimen for rare gemstones (the finest manda- stone-cutting techniques, and different propor- rin garnets, rare tourmalines, pastel sapphires, tions. Two of those rings were featured in my and lively spinels) and as a result, are a dream last year’s November and December DeluxePad for collectors. That said, the importance and Holiday Season Wish Lists, therefore it is worth quality of the gems does not overshadow the noting that whenever a ring is sold, it is replaced designs – seen from the back the setting is all by another completely unique one, featuring about lightness with bridges that let the light another colour combo of extraordinary gems, through – and the playfulness inherent in cock- which perpetuates the line of Winston Candy tail rings. In any case, these rings have all the by Harry Winston anchoring a new tradition in hallmarks that grab attention.
www.alexandrereza.com Cascade Earrings (also worn by model – photograph La Danse Earrings (also worn by model – photograph courtesy of Fançois Lollichon) in platinum set with courtesy of Christian Tarro Toma) in platinum and 28 marquise-cut D IF diamonds (47.26cts), and 10 18K rose gold set with 10 Colombian Min to Sign marquise-cut diamonds (7.84cts); all diamonds are Oil emerald-cut emeralds (36.11cts); 8 oval-shaped free to move. POA. diamonds (3.70cts) and 32 brilliants (7.13cts). POA. What a chromatic extravaganza! Alexis Mabil- peppering the models’ hair and appearing on le’s Spring 2019 Haute Couture collection was their cheeks. A divine tableau that would not all about long silhouettes with sharp cuts, the be complete if it were not for the REZA jewels occasional jaw-dropping all-over embroidery, that illuminated each passage. It is also worth the ruching of tulle fabric from shoulders and pointing out that the Place Vendôme high jew- sleeves and most of all saturated vivid colours. eller revels in designing sharply constructed This background was the perfect set-up for pieces where the quality of the unheated stones REZA high jewels to shine. Each model was in- or flawless diamonds goes hand in hand with a deed wearing riveting creations from the high fierce look. Most earrings are indeed abstract- jeweller, and their make-up and styling could ly floral and thus were a match made in heav- not have been more befitting: delicate flowers en with the styling.
www.alexandrereza.com Branches Saphir et Emeraude Earrings (also worn by Birmanes Earrings (also worn on model – photograph model – photograph courtesy of Fançois Lollichon) in 18K courtesy of Christian Tarro Toma) in 18K white gold set polished and brushed white gold set with one 4.77-carat with Burmese sapphires (respectively 18.49 and 20.34 emerald-cut unheated Burmese sapphire, one 2.67-carat carats) and 116 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.42cts). POA. pear-shaped Brazilian emerald, 18 marquise-cut diamonds (5.42cts); 6 pear-shaped diamonds (1.60cts) and 10 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.09cts). POA. It appears that more high jewellers are inclined Birmanes Earrings with their extremely rare to partner with a couturier during the haute cou- pear-shaped Burmese sapphires that come ture weeks, so that their renditions can be seen from the private collection of gemstones that worn live by the most discerning clientele thus the late Mr Alexandre Reza amassed, the di- clearly reach a wider audience. REZA did not vine Nuage Perlée Earrings with flawless have to look very far since their outpost in the pear-shaped diamonds and round-cut pink merchant gallery of the Ritz Paris is next door diamonds, the majestic Duchesse Necklace to that of Alexis Mabille. The catwalk show took set with natural pearls… so many exception- place at the Pavilion Place Vendôme, and it was al pieces that one could fantasise about on the opportunity for REZA to open its vaults. The that day.
www.cindychao.com 2017–18 Black Label Masterpiece I “Red Diamond Butterfly Brooch” in titanium and 18K gold set with one 10-carat octagonal-cut fancy orangey red diamond, 993 fancy-cut diamonds (97.38cts) and 1,584 fancy coloured diamonds (67.11cts); Butterfly Collection (original gouache shown). POA. A beautiful suite at the Ritz Paris was the lovely setting for Cindy Chao’s Annual Butterfly, 2018 edition. Compared to previous iterations, the new brooch looked more abstract – a hybrid between a six-winged butterfly and an opu- lent bow. Its carefully planned design also suc- ceeds in creating a sense of motion and live- liness, where the extremely rare red diamond in the centre seems to be the pulsating heart of the creature. The latter could have easily overshadowed the ensemble, yet Cindy Chao preferred to make it a full part of the compo- sition by nesting the red centre in a surround of white diamonds. The main upper and lower wings are entirely and tightly paved with myri- ad yellow diamonds of different sizes and cuts intermixed with white ones. The sheer num- ber of diamonds can send one’s head spinning, and make you wonder how on earth the ate- lier could achieve the setting on curved and rolled surfaces. The result is an almost three dimensional texture that plays into the phan- tasmagorical nature of the creation.
www.cindychao.com Aside from the Butterfly, another masterpiece was revealed: the 2018 Black Label Masterpiece XVII “Greenovia Brooch”. A succulent plant as found in nature, the Greenovia becomes some- thing else in the hand of the Taiwanese artist. For a start, it morphs into a flower that has all the right parts but still feels otherworldly. The attention to detail is once again sensational with nearly 2,500 pieces from six varieties of green gemstones that have been used to create six- teen silk-like chromatic grades and shades on the petals. These include tsavorites, alexandrite, green sapphires and emeralds. This exceptional receptacle hosts an astonishingly large Cat’s eye 2018 Black Label Masterpiece XVII “Greenovia chrysoberyl of utter chatoyancy, whose smooth Brooch” (accompanied by the original gouache) in surface contrasts with the faceted gems around. titanium, 18K white gold, 18K yellow gold and silver set with one 105.37-carat Cat’s eye chrysoberyl, The ‘milk and honey’ effect and the fine line that 468 diamonds (22.48cts), 485 fancy-coloured delimits the two sides of the chrysoberyl are both diamonds (11.37cts), 52 emeralds (10.46cts), 5 impeccable. demantoids (7.10cts), 1,993 tsavorites (95.59cfts), 367 alexandrites (28.75cts) and 81 green sapphires (2.61cts); Tango in the Garden Collection. POA.
www.davidmorris.com Ring in 18K white gold set with one 16.59-carat oval Exclusive Chandelier sunset ruby and 4.92 carats Earrings in 18K white of marquise- and pear-shaped gold set with 25.91 white diamonds. POA. carats of rubies and white diamonds. POA. Fan Earrings in 18K white gold set with 6.86 carats of oval-cut rubies and 14.58 carats of round and pear-shaped white diamonds. POA. Not one to launch ‘collections’ when it comes glamourous, lavish and oh so feminine as seen to haute joaillerie, but rather one-of-a-kind in the exquisite bangle set with highly rare pieces, the London Jeweller decided to fo- large conch pearls or the blue sapphire and cus on its main strength, namely rare unheat- diamond princess-style necklace. But if your ed gemstones, and as a result, the paint-by- favourite stones are rubies, you can pick be- numbers presentation, called Chromatophore, tween an interesting choice of shades depend- was organised around colour groups: rubies ing on the origin of the stone, and the bonus in one cabinet, sapphires and Paraiba tour- is that it is the place where you will be able to malines in another, emeralds in a third and find the rarest ones. The same goes for em- so on. A paradise for collectors and a con- eralds, Paraiba tourmalines and coloured di- firmation that at David Morris, they can pro- amonds. The marked diversity of stones and vide you with the best in all categories. Of designs is what makes David Morris the go- course, the designs are also second to none: to-place for the connoisseur.
www.davidmorris.com Open Ring in 18K white gold set with 7.75 carats of pear-shaped Paraiba tourmalines, round- cut Paraiba tourmalines and pear-shaped white diamonds. POA. One-of-a-kind Earrings in 18K white gold set with 47.38 carats of oval- and pear-shaped sapphires, pink and white diamonds. POA. Fringe Necklace in 18K white gold set with 73.88 carats of cushion-cut blue sapphires and 36.12 carats of oval- and round-cut white diamonds. POA.
www.davidmorris.com Sprung Bangle in 18K white gold set with 72.52 carats of rare baroque conch pearls mounted with pear- shaped pink and white diamonds. POA. Important Fan Necklace in platinum and 18K rose gold set with 103.43 carats of oval- and pear- shaped white diamonds, and pink diamonds. POA. Drop Earrings in 18K white and rose gold set with 77.35 carats of rare conch pearls, white and pink diamonds. POA.
www.piaget.com One-of-a-kind Night Illusion Necklace in 18K white gold set with one cushion- cut green emerald from Colombia One-of-a-kind Green Aurora (approx. 10.76cts), 18 marquise-cut Cuff in 18K rose gold set with green emeralds (approx. 5.23cts), one cushion-cut greenish-blue 230 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. tourmaline (approx. 14.53cts) 6.44cts), 33 marquise-cut blue and 152 brilliant-cut diamonds tourmalines (approx. 6.22cts) and 42 (approx. 3.49cts); with straw and baguette-cut green emeralds (approx. wood marquetry by Rose Saneuil; 15.21cts); Sunlight Escape. POA. Sunlight Escape. POA. One-of-a-kind Night Illusion Ring in 18K white gold set with one cushion-cut green emerald from Colombia (approx. 5.95cts), 60 marquise-cut green emeralds (approx. 9.24cts) and 32 round-cut green emeralds; Sunlight Escape. POA. In my last July 2018 report – post Paris Couture is expert at (signature goldwork, inclusion of week – I wondered about Piaget and whether the unique artistry from renowned artisans Sunlight Escape was the final chapter of a tril- that are experts in other domains, out-of-the- ogy, which started with Sunlight Journey and box creative approach) in new iconic pieces. was followed by Sunny Side of Life…or not. Take the Night Illusion Necklace whose ba- Well, It seems Sunlight Escape, and hereby the guette-cut emeralds have been used as crys- trilogy, deserved a conclusion, and what a con- tals jutting out of the main frame, reminiscent clusion it is! The chapter II of Sunlight Escape is of a bird of paradise in the thick of a mating a mini collection, yet one with powerful stunts. dance. The emerald ‘sticks’ look deceptive- For one, it encompasses everything that Piaget ly like natural crystal formations. Beyond the
www.piaget.com White Sun Earrings in 18K white gold set with 2 cushion-cut Paraiba tourmalines from Mozambique (approx. 3.03cts), 2 cushion-cut blue tourmalines (approx. 6.48cts), 8 marquise-cut diamonds (approx. 1.48cts), 30 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.32cts) and 2 sculpted white quartz (approx. 32.88cts); Sunlight Escape. POA. One-of-a-kind Frosted Star Cuff in 18K white gold set with one cushion-cut blue sapphire from Madagascar (approx. 5.12cts), 8 square-cut black opals, 24 marquise-cut diamonds (approx. 3.36cts), 56 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 1.70cts) and 8 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.80ct); Sunlight Escape. POA. White Sun Cuff Watch; Case in 18K white gold set with 12 mixed-cut diamonds (approx. 3.24cts) and 81 brilliant-cut White Illusion Ring in 18K white diamonds (approx. 1.25cts); Dial in white gold set with one pear-shaped mother-of-pearl; Piaget Manufacture diamond (approx. 3.01cts), 56P Quartz movement; Interchangeable 49 brilliant-cut diamonds, white satin strap (black colour for the 5 baguette-cut diamonds 2nd); Ardillon buckle in 18K white gold (approx. 1ct) and 34 marquise- set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds; cut diamonds (approx. 3.40cts); Sunlight Escape. POA. Sunlight Escape. POA. illusion, the neckpiece is light, fresh and re- frost. Lastly the Green Aurora Manchette, sembles nothing that you have seen before. whose matching Earrings were presented last There is also the fabulous Frosted Star Cuff, an July, with its phenomenal wood and straw instant heirloom, whose certainly magnificent marquetry by Rose Saneuil. Imagine the com- blue sapphire from Madagascar – the central plexity of working on a curve and confronted stone – is just one component of an incredibly with two types of resistance (hard wood and precise goldwork that succeeds in mimicking pliable straw)!
www.lydiacourteille.com Ring in 18K white gold set with sapphires (5.55cts), aquamarines (5.3grs), Earrings in 18K white gold set and blue enamel; Marie with sapphires (5.2cts) and Antoinette Dark Side. POA. aquamarines (1.9grs); Marie Antoinette Dark Side. POA. Ring in 18K white gold set with sapphires (4.75cts) and aquamarines (0.85gr); Marie Antoinette Dark Side. POA. Last July, I wrote that “each of Lydia Courteille’s the creations that represent her earlier years collections is clearly an invitation to explore and at the French court are all auspicious and radi- at times time travel”. This time we are transport- ant, whereas the renditions for the later years, ed to the 18th century, invited to delve into the even though still delicate, include ‘dark’ ele- psyche of none other than Marie Antoinette, ments (spiders, spider webs and skulls) that the last Queen of France. Marie Antoinette Dark hint at her terrible fate. All through the collec- Side is indeed an exploration of her mindset at tion though, there is a common element: the different stages of her tumultuous life. And so, specific blue hue that Lydia Courteille used
www.lydiacourteille.com Ring in blue titanium set with black diamonds, brown diamonds, sapphires (11.4cts), and aquamarines (11grs); Marie Antoinette Dark Side. POA. Earrings in blue titanium set with diamonds (3.9cts), sapphires and aquamarines (2.6grs); Marie Antoinette Earrings in 18K yellow Dark Side. POA. gold and titanium set with brown diamonds (0.73ct), blue & yellow sapphires (6cts), aquamarines and yellow quartz; Marie Antoinette Dark Side. POA. to plate the gold or in titanium. This provides Most pieces are delicate with lace-like effects an enchanting cohesive tone to the ensem- and the proportions are unusually ‘subdued’ ble – the artist indeed often elects one driv- for Lydia Courteille usually revels in bolder at- ing colour for each collection – soft and mys- tempts. Marie Antoinette Dark Side is noth- terious at the same time. Yellow sapphires and ing to be afraid of; it is actually a compassion- quartz highlight some motifs and mostly for ate and non-judgmental tribute to “the woman the ‘early years’ creations, notably when it whose charm and seductiveness was gradually comes to evoking the sun and moon symbols. degraded to unpopularity and disgrace”.
www.suzannesyz.ch Robinets Earrings in Arctic Ice Ring in white gold set with 36 silver and enamel set Almond Green Ring diamonds and 10 green with one 8.80-carat in gold and ceramic tourmalines (9.69cts). Paraiba tourmaline from set with one green POA. Mozambique. POA. tourmaline. POA. Another plethora of unique rings and ear- Collection Earrings. The idea is to offer col- rings were on show at the Suzanne Syz pre- lectors the opportunity to have their own sentation at the Ritz Paris. It is true that these favourite artworks reproduced onto titani- two product categories are her forte when um earrings. The ultimate wearable art offer. it comes to combining innovative ideas and Other head-turning pieces are the Star Ship playfulness. Colours have also always been and the Robinets Earrings, two sensational a passion for Syz and this has certainly in- takes on Pop Art and humorous clin d’oeil. fluenced the nature of her personal contem- As for rings, Syz has a knack for large carat porary art collection, from which she rou- central stones once again in vibrant colours tinely finds inspiration. Taking the concept as seen in the hot Orange Velvet spessartite of marrying art and jewellery to a higher lev- garnet or Grass Green Velvet peridot rings, el, she has designed the We are Your Art a redefinition of what solitaires can be.
www.suzannesyz.ch Andy Warhol, We are Your Star Ship Earrings in Art Collection Earrings in gold and titanium set gold and titanium set with with diamonds. POA. 16 diamonds. POA. Orange Velvet Ring in gold and enamel set with one 11.89-carat spessartite garnet. POA.
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