THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019

THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019
THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT
PARIS JΑNUARY 2019




Rouge Incandescent Transformable
Necklace by CHANEL in 18K white
gold set with rubies and diamonds;
1.5 – 1 Camélia . 5 Allures collection,
CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.
www.chanel.com
THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019
THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019
Comparison between the gouache drawing and a
work-in-progress, the Frosted Star Manchette by
PIAGET; Sunlight Escape.
www.piaget.com




The January 2019 rendezvous for haute cou-
ture and high jewellery has been quite surpris-
ing in the sense that a few houses have intro-
duced important collections that would usually
fit July’s bigger event. As a result, we have been
shown creations that warm both minds and
hearts and can easily be categorised as excep-
tional, in stark contrast with the snowy and gla-
cial weather outside. We saw CHAUMET go back
to its fundamentals with a superbly classic high
jewellery collection, which is an extension of the
Joséphine line and is centred on exploring the
design of Empress Josephine’s tiara. CHANEL
never has to go too far to find inspiration as delv-
ing into the past of its founder always provides a
successful outcome. This time the hero was the
camellia flower, a favourite of Coco, which was
the main motif in fifty pieces, of which twenty
three were transformable. At CHOPARD, tech-
nical prowess was the main focus with the of-
ficial launch of the Chopard MAGICAL setting,
a patented new way of bringing the most radi-
ance and light from gemstones. Haute couture
and haute joaillerie combined for REZA’s pre-
sentation. By accessorising Alexis Mabille’s vi-
brant dresses with their most recent creations,
REZA contributed to a match made in heaven.
THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019
Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Diadem and matching
Earrings both in 18K white gold, set with Akoya
cultured pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine
Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.
www.chaumet.com




At DAVID MORRIS, creations were grouped by co-
lours so as to showcase one of their strong suits
and the fact that their coloured gemstones are
the real deal, i.e. unheated. BOUCHERON took
the opportunity to open their refurbished flagship
house (see my previous article: The reopening of
26, Place Vendôme or a home with a past poised
to embrace the future, published earlier this year)
to present their new fine jewellery line, Jack, as
well as some new high jewellery renditions. It was
a very private and secure affair at CINDY CHAO
for the unveiling of both her 2018 Annual Butterfly
and the dazzling Greenovia Brooch, a novelty with
a 105-carat chrysoberyl cat’s eye. Delicacies were
lavished on us at HARRY WINSTON, both literal-
ly in the form of sweets and figuratively with one-
of-a-kind cocktail rings from the new Candy col-
lection. SUZANNE SYZ was once again a joy to
meet, with great novelties especially earrings. At
PIAGET, it felt like the end of a journey, the last
chapter of Sunlight Escape and a beautiful con-
clusion. Lastly, LYDIA COURTEILLE immersed us
in a stylised reverie about the Dark Side of Marie
Antoinette, and dark has never been more exqui-
site in shades of blue.
THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019
THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019
Model wears Joséphine Aigrette
www.chaumet.com                                                        Impériale Necklace in 18K white gold,
                                                                       set with one 3.28-carat pear-shaped
                                                                       pink sapphire from Madagascar, 21 pear-
                                                                       shaped EF VVS diamonds for a total
                                                                       weight of 10.87 carats and brilliant-cut
                                                                       diamonds; Joséphine Aigrette Impériale
                                                                       Ring and matching Earrings also in
                                                                       18K white gold, set with pear-shaped
                                                                       pink sapphires from Madagascar,
                                                                       pear-shaped diamonds and brilliant-
       Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Tiara in 18K white gold set with   cut diamonds; Joséphine Joséphine
       pear-shaped pink sapphires and tsavorite garnets, pear-         Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.
       shaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds; Joséphine
       Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.




       Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Bracelet in 18K white gold
       set with pear-shaped diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds;
       Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament collection. POA.

Stepping into tradition and grand decorum is what Chaumet’s
new collection, Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament,
promises. It is the art of modernising jewels that are traditional-
ly ceremonial and seen as the ultimate status symbols where the
muse is none other than Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais, first
wife of Napoleon, and whose parures for appearance in court
were created by the French house. About one hundred pieces
were presented, not in the Place Vendôme salons, which are be-
ing refurbished, but in a temporary outpost, a grand house on
the Saint-Germain-des-Prés boulevard. There on the first floor,
the precious sets were showcased in a dark room so that the di-
amonds and gemstones were all sparkling like a thousand stars.
The Joséphine line was translated into three themes, the first
being Joséphine Aigrette Impériale where the tiara emblem has
inspired necklace, earrings and ring sets, an all-white diamond
ensemble minus the central coloured stones (sapphire, ruby, em-
erald, yellow diamond) or cultured pearls.
THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019
www.chaumet.com



                                                                          One-of-a-kind Joséphine
                                                                          Éclat Floral Earrings in
                                                                          platinum, set with 2 cushion-
                                                                          cut ‘Vivid Red Pigeon’s Blood’
                                                                          rubies (weighing 1.70 and 1.65
                                                                          carats) from Mozambique,
                                                                          2 pear-shaped D VVS2
                                                                          diamonds (weighing 0.73 and
                                                                          0.70 carats) and brilliant-
                                                                          cut diamonds; Joséphine
                                                                          Joséphine Chaumet au
                                                                          Firmament collection. POA.




 One of-a-kind Soir de Fête
 Cocktail Ring in 18K white
 gold set with one 17-carat blue
 sapphire from Madagascar, pear-    One-of-a-kind Soir de Fête
 shaped white diamonds, and         Necklace in 18K white gold
 brilliant-cut white diamonds;      set with ‘pigeon blood’ rubies
 Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au     from Mozambique, pear-shaped
 Firmament collection. POA.         white diamonds, and brilliant-
                                    cut white diamonds; Joséphine
                                    Joséphine Chaumet au Firmament
                                    collection. POA.

From the second strand of the Josephine             for her wedding to Prince Sixtus of Bourbon-
theme, Joséphine Éclat Floral, comes a ring of      Parma. The fuchsia flower being an emblem
consummate beauty with a central cushion-cut        of enduring love, Chaumet extracted the mo-
gemstone (ruby, sapphire, pink sapphire, dia-       tif from the tiara to build the diamond-paved
mond or yellow diamond) supported by white          body of the necklaces. As one would expect,
round- or pear-shaped diamonds. Lastly Soir         the result is absolutely stunning, and two sets
de Fête pour Joséphine, the most precious           in particular deserve a nod. First, the Soir de
line-up of one-of-a-kind neckpieces and rings,      Fête necklace, set with ‘pigeon blood’ rubies
which are inspired by the fuchsia tiara, made in    from Mozambique, showcases the house sig-
1919 for Hedwige de la Rochefoucauld to wear        nature style, the fil couteau.
THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019
www.chaumet.com




Then the Joséphine Aigrette Impériale parure set with natu-     Joséphine Aigrette Impériale
                                                                Necklace, Ring, Earrings and Tiara
ral pearls that were once part of a Chaumet-designed tiara,     all in 18K set with natural pearls,
re-purposed at the request of the owners, in a necklace that    pear-shaped white diamonds,
was then bought back by Chaumet. Now the rare pearls have       and brilliant-cut white diamonds;
                                                                Joséphine Joséphine Chaumet au
been brought back to life in a necklace, earrings, tiara and    Firmament collection. POA.
ring. Let’s hope they are not going to be separated after be-
ing united for more than a century.
THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019
THE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REPORT - PARIS JΑNUARY 2019
www.chanel.com

                        Rouge Incandescent Transformable
                 Bracelet in 18K white gold and rose gold
              set with rubies and diamonds (the camellia
                   is detachable and becomes a brooch –
                     in its place a hidden cut-out camellia
                 motif appears); 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures
                       collection, CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.


It is said that the camellia motif made its
first appearance in 1913 in a Chanel collec-
tion. Since then, the alleged favourite flow-
er of Coco Chanel has been repeatedly used
in all areas of the French house, so much
so that it is now indistinguishable from the                   Rouge Incandescent Ring in
                                                               18K white gold set with one
luxury brand. As such, it was time to cele-                      ruby and diamonds; 1.5 – 1
brate the floral emblem in the most exclu-                    Camélia .5 Allures collection,
sive part of the Chanel business, the high                         CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.
jewellery realm. The 1.5 collection means 1
motif (the camellia) for 5 Allures, and the
50 pieces certainly deliver with 23 of them
being transformable – in most cases, the
camellia component can be detached and
worn as a brooch or hair clip, revealing in
its original place another motif. The simple
colour palette is reminiscent of the Coco
Avant Chanel high jewellery collection from
2017 with hints of soft pink (pink sapphires
or pink quartz), yet it takes a more passion-
ate turn with the incandescence of vivid red
rubies. A note to self, rubies have indeed
made a comeback in high jewellery collec-
                                                                                        Rouge Incandescent Asymmetrical
tions after a hiatus of a few seasons, partly                                           earrings in 18K white gold set
thanks to the rich Montepuez ruby deposit                                               with rubies and diamonds; 1.5 –
in northern Mozambique.                                                                 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection,
                                                                                        CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.
www.chanel.com



Quintessence Brooch in
18K white gold and rose
gold set with diamonds
and carved pink quartz;
1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures
collection, CHANEL
Joaillerie. POA.




                                                                 Révélation Diamant
                                                                 Transformable in 18K white
                                                                 gold set with diamonds (the
                                                                 camellia motif is detachable
                                                                 and becomes a brooch;
                                                                 the necklace can be short
                                                                 or long); 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5
                             Cristal Illusion Secret             Allures collection, CHANEL
                             Watch in 18K white gold             Joaillerie. POA.
                             with rock crystal and
                             diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia
                             .5 Allures collection,
                             CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.




                                   Rose Tendre Ring in 18K
                                   white gold and rose gold
                                   set with diamonds, carved
                                   pink quartz and cultured
                                   pearls); 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5
                                   Allures collection, CHANEL
                                   Joaillerie. POA.
www.chanel.com                                   Rose Poudré Transformable
                                                 Necklace in 18K rose gold set with
                                                 diamonds (the camellia motif is
                                                 detachable and becomes a brooch;
                                                 the camellia can also be affixed at
                                                 different places on the necklace);
                                                 1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures collection,
                                                 CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.




 Rose Poudré Earrings in
 18K rose gold set with
 diamonds; 1.5 – 1 Camélia
 .5 Allures collection,
 CHANEL Joaillerie. POA.



In order to demonstrate how versatile and
transformable the 1.5 pieces are, the scenog-
raphy for this collection was instructive with
a series of screens showing photographs of
a model demonstrating all the versions of
how to wear the most prominent transform-
able pieces. Dressed in elegant black Chanel
attires, the model – a dancer by trade – was
inhabiting the Chanel spirit and effortlessly
showing how to style the jewels. The most
precious necklaces were the long sautoirs,
lariats, or multi-strand pieces, while ‘young-
er’ versions (torque necklaces) with fewer                           Rose Intense Ring in
gemstones had the same appeal. Worth not-                            18K rose gold set with
ing once again are the secret watches – an                           one pear-shaped pink
                                                                     sapphire and diamonds;
area of expertise that Chanel has mastered                           1.5 – 1 Camélia .5 Allures
both in craftsmanship and desirability for                           collection, CHANEL
their watches all have perfect proportions.                          Joaillerie. POA.
www.boucheron.com



                                                                                       Jack Transformable
                                                                                       Bracelet (1 wrap)
                                                                                       in 18K yellow gold;
                                               Jack Bracelet or a Long                 Jack by Boucheron
                                               Necklace, 18K yellow                    collection. POA.
                                               gold set with diamonds;
                                               Jack by Boucheron
                                               collection. POA.




 Jack Bracelet (6 wraps) or
 Long Necklace – High jewellery
 version – in 18K white gold
 entirely set with 24 carats of                                                Jack Transformable Bracelet
 diamonds; Jack by Boucheron                                                   (1 wrap) in 18K yellow gold
 collection. POA.                                                              set with diamonds; Jack by
                                                                               Boucheron collection. POA.

In order to welcome the press into their mag-       place their own. A couple were playing a game
nificently refurbished mansion at 26 Place          of chess in the dining room, young girls were
Vendôme and present their novelties, the            chatting away on the sofa in the living room,
Boucheron team had the excellent idea to or-        further models were in the bedroom and one
ganise the presentation in the private apart-       was pausing in the bathroom. All were wearing
ment on the second floor (‘Le 26’ private apart-    pieces from the new fine jewellery collection,
ment is operated with the services of the Ritz      Jack, except for the last girl who was trying on
Paris, and is where the notion of family materi-    the few new high jewels. A fresh approach for
alises. The guests benefit from the full comfort    a playful and cool line, Jack is composed of a
of a private home and more, which means that        tubular gold wire inspired by audio cables and
they will be able to spend the night in this one-   sealed by a stylised jeweller’s clasp and that
of-a-kind sanctuary. Maison Boucheron collec-       can be worn on the wrist, the neck or the waist.
tors have always been treated as part of the        “In yellow or white gold, wrapped round once,
family; however, from now on, they will liter-      three times or six times, on its own or in multi-
ally be given the keys to the mansion), where       ple combination, Jack winds round and unfolds
the jewels were worn by models who made the         as the mood takes you”, they say.
www.boucheron.com




 Nara La Biche Ring in
 18K yellow gold set with
 diamonds and onyx;
 Couture collection. POA.




                            Ivy Point
                            D’Interrogation
                            Necklace in 18K
                            rose gold set with
                            diamonds; Couture
                            collection. POA.




Even though Boucheron did not present a new
high jewellery collection (the focus was on
launching Jack by Boucheron, as well as intro-
ducing a new colourway for Serpent Bohéme         Delilah Necklace in 18K
                                                    yellow gold set with
with rhodolite garnets), they unveiled a few          diamonds; Couture
pieces: a re-edition (Delilah Necklace), a rose          collection. POA.
gold version of a previous creation (Ivy Point
D’Interrogation Necklace) and an addition (Nara
La Biche Ring).
www.chopard.com




 Pendant in 18K white gold set with      Model from the Giambattista Valli Spring   Earrings in 18K white gold
 diamonds and featuring a central        2019 Couture Show wearing the Earrings     set with diamonds; Magical
 3.4-carat diamond; Magical Setting      in 18K white gold set with diamonds from   Setting collection. POA.
 collection. POA.                        the Magical Setting collection. POA.


Beside their Place Vendôme flagship store, in-          hereby unleashing the full potential of the said
side a salon whose entrance was entirely cov-           gems in terms of light and lustre. “The collec-
ered with fresh flowers and roses, Chopard              tion offers a choice of jewels set with diamonds,
unveiled not only new creations, but a revolu-          sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Each cluster is
tionary patented setting, the Magical Setting           centred on a significant single stone and encir-
(also the name of the new collection). The prin-        cled throughout with unusually large stones”,
ciple is based on redefining the traditional floral     the teams explains. “The cluster is underpinned
cluster motif by eliminating any sign of metal          by a pioneering structure where the light can
between each stone (“barely-there claws”) and           flow freely in and out and around the gemstones,
from the front and above; the stones seem held          unimpeded by the opacity of metal constraints,
together by none other than their counterparts,         unfettered by demarcation.”
www.chopard.com


                        A cluster of colourful Magical
                   Setting Rings all in 18K white gold
                       and set with rubies, sapphires,
                    emeralds and diamonds; Magical
                             Setting collection. POA.




What impresses most is how tightly arranged
the gems are. This provides such lavishness and
brilliance in one mass that the effect is quite
tantalising even in the smallest ring. In other
words, the Magical Setting multiplies the wow
factor of the piece. When in an all-white dia-
mond version, the rings come either in white or
rose gold, and only in white gold when they in-
clude coloured gems. In the latter case, the per-
mutations between the central and surround-
ing stones are endless as seen in the nine rings
that mix the triumvirate of the most sough-af-
ter coloured gems that are rubies, sapphires
and emeralds with white diamonds. Magical
Setting is the modern re-invention of a clas-
sic, the most romantic pattern of all, the floral
cluster.
www.harrywinston.com             Original gouache, loose pink tourmaline stone and final Winston Candy
                                 Ring in 18K yellow gold and platinum set with the rare 11.22-carat oval-
                                 shaped pink tourmaline (impeccable colour saturation), 16 pear-shaped
                                 turquoises (1.98cts), 16 round pink sapphires (1.27cts), and 16 round
                                 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.72cts); Winston Candy by Harry Winston. POA.




The presentation of Winston Candy by Harry                 shades. It could be seen as a new attempt by Harry
Winston was heaven for anyone with a sweet                 Winston to extend their offering on the market of
tooth. Let’s just start with the salon on the first        precious coloured gems, since they are notably
floor of Harry Winston’s Avenue Montaigne flag-            best known for their white diamonds expertise,
ship boutique, where jars filled with all the imag-        but it would be missing the fact that the “inspi-
inable candies of our childhood were taunting us           ration for the collection began with a series of ar-
from their counter along the main wall. It is in this      chival sketches dating back to the 1950s and 60s
very place (fitted with a bubble pink carpet for           that featured brightly coloured cocktail rings in un-
the occasion) that the other – non edible but pre-         expected shades. The jewellery aesthetic at that
cious – candies were displayed under domes. The            time was about magnificence and grandeur and
fact that there was just one cocktail ring under           for Harry Winston that meant creating the most ex-
each dome reinforced the notion of special deli-           traordinary jewels, using signature techniques such
cacy. Winston Candy rings feature rare fancy-co-           as the pairing of fancy shaped stones with round
loured central stones paired with a combination            brilliants and the use of intriguing colour combina-
of diamonds and vibrant gems in complementing              tions”, the team says.
Archival gouaches from the 1950s
www.harrywinston.com                                              and 60s and inspirational basis for
                                                                  Winston Candy by Harry Winston.
 Winston Candy Ring in platinum set
 with one 19.67-carat cushion-cut
 green tourmaline (intense green and
 one of the most desirable shades),
 8 round yellow sapphires (4.12cts),                                 Winston Candy Ring in platinum set with
 8 pear-shaped peridots (3.75cts)                                    one 5.48-carat cushion-cut aquamarine
 and 76 round brilliant-cut diamonds                                 (perfect ‘sea’ blue hue), 14 round blue
 (2.54cts); Winston Candy by Harry                                   sapphires (1.29cts), 14 round aquamarines
 Winston. POA.                                                       and 14 pear-shaped diamonds (2.10cts);
                                                                     Winston Candy by Harry Winston. POA.




The 28 displayed rings are all one-of-a-kind,         the house’s history. Each ring is indeed a kind of
showcasing bold colour contrasts, varied              specimen for rare gemstones (the finest manda-
stone-cutting techniques, and different propor-       rin garnets, rare tourmalines, pastel sapphires,
tions. Two of those rings were featured in my         and lively spinels) and as a result, are a dream
last year’s November and December DeluxePad           for collectors. That said, the importance and
Holiday Season Wish Lists, therefore it is worth      quality of the gems does not overshadow the
noting that whenever a ring is sold, it is replaced   designs – seen from the back the setting is all
by another completely unique one, featuring           about lightness with bridges that let the light
another colour combo of extraordinary gems,           through – and the playfulness inherent in cock-
which perpetuates the line of Winston Candy           tail rings. In any case, these rings have all the
by Harry Winston anchoring a new tradition in         hallmarks that grab attention.
www.alexandrereza.com




 Cascade Earrings (also worn by model – photograph      La Danse Earrings (also worn by model – photograph
 courtesy of Fançois Lollichon) in platinum set with    courtesy of Christian Tarro Toma) in platinum and
 28 marquise-cut D IF diamonds (47.26cts), and 10       18K rose gold set with 10 Colombian Min to Sign
 marquise-cut diamonds (7.84cts); all diamonds are      Oil emerald-cut emeralds (36.11cts); 8 oval-shaped
 free to move. POA.                                     diamonds (3.70cts) and 32 brilliants (7.13cts). POA.



What a chromatic extravaganza! Alexis Mabil-           peppering the models’ hair and appearing on
le’s Spring 2019 Haute Couture collection was          their cheeks. A divine tableau that would not
all about long silhouettes with sharp cuts, the        be complete if it were not for the REZA jewels
occasional jaw-dropping all-over embroidery,           that illuminated each passage. It is also worth
the ruching of tulle fabric from shoulders and         pointing out that the Place Vendôme high jew-
sleeves and most of all saturated vivid colours.       eller revels in designing sharply constructed
This background was the perfect set-up for             pieces where the quality of the unheated stones
REZA high jewels to shine. Each model was in-          or flawless diamonds goes hand in hand with a
deed wearing riveting creations from the high          fierce look. Most earrings are indeed abstract-
jeweller, and their make-up and styling could          ly floral and thus were a match made in heav-
not have been more befitting: delicate flowers         en with the styling.
www.alexandrereza.com




 Branches Saphir et Emeraude Earrings (also worn by          Birmanes Earrings (also worn on model – photograph
 model – photograph courtesy of Fançois Lollichon) in 18K    courtesy of Christian Tarro Toma) in 18K white gold set
 polished and brushed white gold set with one 4.77-carat     with Burmese sapphires (respectively 18.49 and 20.34
 emerald-cut unheated Burmese sapphire, one 2.67-carat       carats) and 116 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.42cts). POA.
 pear-shaped Brazilian emerald, 18 marquise-cut
 diamonds (5.42cts); 6 pear-shaped diamonds (1.60cts)
 and 10 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.09cts). POA.


It appears that more high jewellers are inclined            Birmanes Earrings with their extremely rare
to partner with a couturier during the haute cou-           pear-shaped Burmese sapphires that come
ture weeks, so that their renditions can be seen            from the private collection of gemstones that
worn live by the most discerning clientele thus             the late Mr Alexandre Reza amassed, the di-
clearly reach a wider audience. REZA did not                vine Nuage Perlée Earrings with flawless
have to look very far since their outpost in the            pear-shaped diamonds and round-cut pink
merchant gallery of the Ritz Paris is next door             diamonds, the majestic Duchesse Necklace
to that of Alexis Mabille. The catwalk show took            set with natural pearls… so many exception-
place at the Pavilion Place Vendôme, and it was             al pieces that one could fantasise about on
the opportunity for REZA to open its vaults. The            that day.
www.cindychao.com

                      2017–18 Black Label Masterpiece I
                     “Red Diamond Butterfly Brooch” in
                     titanium and 18K gold set with one
                  10-carat octagonal-cut fancy orangey
                 red diamond, 993 fancy-cut diamonds
                    (97.38cts) and 1,584 fancy coloured
               diamonds (67.11cts); Butterfly Collection
                         (original gouache shown). POA.




A beautiful suite at the Ritz Paris was the lovely
setting for Cindy Chao’s Annual Butterfly, 2018
edition. Compared to previous iterations, the
new brooch looked more abstract – a hybrid
between a six-winged butterfly and an opu-
lent bow. Its carefully planned design also suc-
ceeds in creating a sense of motion and live-
liness, where the extremely rare red diamond
in the centre seems to be the pulsating heart
of the creature. The latter could have easily
overshadowed the ensemble, yet Cindy Chao
preferred to make it a full part of the compo-
sition by nesting the red centre in a surround
of white diamonds. The main upper and lower
wings are entirely and tightly paved with myri-
ad yellow diamonds of different sizes and cuts
intermixed with white ones. The sheer num-
ber of diamonds can send one’s head spinning,
and make you wonder how on earth the ate-
lier could achieve the setting on curved and
rolled surfaces. The result is an almost three
dimensional texture that plays into the phan-
tasmagorical nature of the creation.
www.cindychao.com




Aside from the Butterfly, another masterpiece
was revealed: the 2018 Black Label Masterpiece
XVII “Greenovia Brooch”. A succulent plant as
found in nature, the Greenovia becomes some-
thing else in the hand of the Taiwanese artist.
For a start, it morphs into a flower that has all
the right parts but still feels otherworldly. The
attention to detail is once again sensational with
nearly 2,500 pieces from six varieties of green
gemstones that have been used to create six-
teen silk-like chromatic grades and shades on
the petals. These include tsavorites, alexandrite,
green sapphires and emeralds. This exceptional
receptacle hosts an astonishingly large Cat’s eye          2018 Black Label Masterpiece XVII “Greenovia
chrysoberyl of utter chatoyancy, whose smooth         Brooch” (accompanied by the original gouache) in
surface contrasts with the faceted gems around.      titanium, 18K white gold, 18K yellow gold and silver
                                                         set with one 105.37-carat Cat’s eye chrysoberyl,
The ‘milk and honey’ effect and the fine line that         468 diamonds (22.48cts), 485 fancy-coloured
delimits the two sides of the chrysoberyl are both         diamonds (11.37cts), 52 emeralds (10.46cts), 5
impeccable.                                            demantoids (7.10cts), 1,993 tsavorites (95.59cfts),
                                                      367 alexandrites (28.75cts) and 81 green sapphires
                                                          (2.61cts); Tango in the Garden Collection. POA.
www.davidmorris.com
                                                                    Ring in 18K white gold set
                                                                    with one 16.59-carat oval
             Exclusive Chandelier                                   sunset ruby and 4.92 carats
             Earrings in 18K white                                  of marquise- and pear-shaped
             gold set with 25.91                                    white diamonds. POA.
             carats of rubies and
             white diamonds. POA.




                                                     Fan Earrings in 18K
                                                white gold set with 6.86
                                                carats of oval-cut rubies
                                                     and 14.58 carats of
                                                 round and pear-shaped
                                                  white diamonds. POA.


Not one to launch ‘collections’ when it comes   glamourous, lavish and oh so feminine as seen
to haute joaillerie, but rather one-of-a-kind   in the exquisite bangle set with highly rare
pieces, the London Jeweller decided to fo-      large conch pearls or the blue sapphire and
cus on its main strength, namely rare unheat-   diamond princess-style necklace. But if your
ed gemstones, and as a result, the paint-by-    favourite stones are rubies, you can pick be-
numbers presentation, called Chromatophore,     tween an interesting choice of shades depend-
was organised around colour groups: rubies      ing on the origin of the stone, and the bonus
in one cabinet, sapphires and Paraiba tour-     is that it is the place where you will be able to
malines in another, emeralds in a third and     find the rarest ones. The same goes for em-
so on. A paradise for collectors and a con-     eralds, Paraiba tourmalines and coloured di-
firmation that at David Morris, they can pro-   amonds. The marked diversity of stones and
vide you with the best in all categories. Of    designs is what makes David Morris the go-
course, the designs are also second to none:    to-place for the connoisseur.
www.davidmorris.com




                                                                      Open Ring in 18K white
                                                                      gold set with 7.75 carats
                                                                      of pear-shaped Paraiba
                                                                      tourmalines, round-
                                                                      cut Paraiba tourmalines
                                                                      and pear-shaped white
                                                                      diamonds. POA.




                                            One-of-a-kind Earrings
                                              in 18K white gold set
                                               with 47.38 carats of
                                            oval- and pear-shaped
                                                sapphires, pink and
                                             white diamonds. POA.




     Fringe Necklace in 18K white gold
     set with 73.88 carats of cushion-cut
     blue sapphires and 36.12 carats of
     oval- and round-cut white diamonds.
     POA.
www.davidmorris.com
                                      Sprung Bangle in 18K white gold set
                                      with 72.52 carats of rare baroque
                                      conch pearls mounted with pear-
                                      shaped pink and white diamonds.
                                      POA.




          Important Fan Necklace
          in platinum and 18K rose
          gold set with 103.43
          carats of oval- and pear-
          shaped white diamonds,
          and pink diamonds. POA.




                                                                Drop Earrings in
                                                             18K white and rose
                                                             gold set with 77.35
                                                            carats of rare conch
                                                          pearls, white and pink
                                                                diamonds. POA.
www.piaget.com                                                         One-of-a-kind Night Illusion Necklace
                                                                       in 18K white gold set with one cushion-
                                                                       cut green emerald from Colombia
 One-of-a-kind Green Aurora                                            (approx. 10.76cts), 18 marquise-cut
 Cuff in 18K rose gold set with                                        green emeralds (approx. 5.23cts),
 one cushion-cut greenish-blue                                         230 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx.
 tourmaline (approx. 14.53cts)                                         6.44cts), 33 marquise-cut blue
 and 152 brilliant-cut diamonds                                        tourmalines (approx. 6.22cts) and 42
 (approx. 3.49cts); with straw and                                     baguette-cut green emeralds (approx.
 wood marquetry by Rose Saneuil;                                       15.21cts); Sunlight Escape. POA.
 Sunlight Escape. POA.




                                                                  One-of-a-kind Night Illusion Ring in 18K
                                                                  white gold set with one cushion-cut green
                                                                  emerald from Colombia (approx. 5.95cts),
                                                                  60 marquise-cut green emeralds (approx.
                                                                  9.24cts) and 32 round-cut green emeralds;
                                                                  Sunlight Escape. POA.


In my last July 2018 report – post Paris Couture      is expert at (signature goldwork, inclusion of
week – I wondered about Piaget and whether            the unique artistry from renowned artisans
Sunlight Escape was the final chapter of a tril-      that are experts in other domains, out-of-the-
ogy, which started with Sunlight Journey and          box creative approach) in new iconic pieces.
was followed by Sunny Side of Life…or not.            Take the Night Illusion Necklace whose ba-
Well, It seems Sunlight Escape, and hereby the        guette-cut emeralds have been used as crys-
trilogy, deserved a conclusion, and what a con-       tals jutting out of the main frame, reminiscent
clusion it is! The chapter II of Sunlight Escape is   of a bird of paradise in the thick of a mating
a mini collection, yet one with powerful stunts.      dance. The emerald ‘sticks’ look deceptive-
For one, it encompasses everything that Piaget        ly like natural crystal formations. Beyond the
www.piaget.com                               White Sun Earrings in 18K white gold set
                                             with 2 cushion-cut Paraiba tourmalines
                                             from Mozambique (approx. 3.03cts), 2
                                             cushion-cut blue tourmalines (approx.
                                             6.48cts), 8 marquise-cut diamonds (approx.
                                             1.48cts), 30 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx.
                                             1.32cts) and 2 sculpted white quartz
                                             (approx. 32.88cts); Sunlight Escape. POA.




                                                                                            One-of-a-kind Frosted Star Cuff
                                                                                            in 18K white gold set with one
                                                                                            cushion-cut blue sapphire from
                                                                                            Madagascar (approx. 5.12cts),
                                                                                            8 square-cut black opals, 24
                                                                                            marquise-cut diamonds (approx.
                                                                                            3.36cts), 56 baguette-cut
                                                                                            diamonds (approx. 1.70cts) and
                                                                                            8 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx.
                                                                                            0.80ct); Sunlight Escape. POA.
 White Sun Cuff Watch; Case in 18K white
 gold set with 12 mixed-cut diamonds
 (approx. 3.24cts) and 81 brilliant-cut
                                                                                      White Illusion Ring in 18K white
 diamonds (approx. 1.25cts); Dial in white
                                                                                      gold set with one pear-shaped
 mother-of-pearl; Piaget Manufacture
                                                                                      diamond (approx. 3.01cts),
 56P Quartz movement; Interchangeable
                                                                                      49 brilliant-cut diamonds,
 white satin strap (black colour for the
                                                                                      5 baguette-cut diamonds
 2nd); Ardillon buckle in 18K white gold
                                                                                      (approx. 1ct) and 34 marquise-
 set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds;
                                                                                      cut diamonds (approx. 3.40cts);
 Sunlight Escape. POA.
                                                                                      Sunlight Escape. POA.

illusion, the neckpiece is light, fresh and re-                   frost. Lastly the Green Aurora Manchette,
sembles nothing that you have seen before.                        whose matching Earrings were presented last
There is also the fabulous Frosted Star Cuff, an                  July, with its phenomenal wood and straw
instant heirloom, whose certainly magnificent                     marquetry by Rose Saneuil. Imagine the com-
blue sapphire from Madagascar – the central                       plexity of working on a curve and confronted
stone – is just one component of an incredibly                    with two types of resistance (hard wood and
precise goldwork that succeeds in mimicking                       pliable straw)!
www.lydiacourteille.com                                                 Ring in 18K white gold set
                                                                        with sapphires (5.55cts),
                                                                        aquamarines (5.3grs),
 Earrings in 18K white gold set                                         and blue enamel; Marie
 with sapphires (5.2cts) and                                            Antoinette Dark Side. POA.
 aquamarines (1.9grs); Marie
 Antoinette Dark Side. POA.




                                                                               Ring in 18K white gold set
                                                                               with sapphires (4.75cts)
                                                                               and aquamarines (0.85gr);
                                                                               Marie Antoinette Dark Side.
                                                                               POA.




Last July, I wrote that “each of Lydia Courteille’s   the creations that represent her earlier years
collections is clearly an invitation to explore and   at the French court are all auspicious and radi-
at times time travel”. This time we are transport-    ant, whereas the renditions for the later years,
ed to the 18th century, invited to delve into the     even though still delicate, include ‘dark’ ele-
psyche of none other than Marie Antoinette,           ments (spiders, spider webs and skulls) that
the last Queen of France. Marie Antoinette Dark       hint at her terrible fate. All through the collec-
Side is indeed an exploration of her mindset at       tion though, there is a common element: the
different stages of her tumultuous life. And so,      specific blue hue that Lydia Courteille used
www.lydiacourteille.com
                                                         Ring in blue titanium set with black
                                                         diamonds, brown diamonds, sapphires
                                                         (11.4cts), and aquamarines (11grs);
                                                         Marie Antoinette Dark Side. POA.




 Earrings in blue titanium
 set with diamonds (3.9cts),
 sapphires and aquamarines
 (2.6grs); Marie Antoinette                                                      Earrings in 18K yellow
 Dark Side. POA.                                                                 gold and titanium set
                                                                                 with brown diamonds
                                                                                 (0.73ct), blue & yellow
                                                                                 sapphires (6cts),
                                                                                 aquamarines and
                                                                                 yellow quartz; Marie
                                                                                 Antoinette Dark Side.
                                                                                 POA.




to plate the gold or in titanium. This provides   Most pieces are delicate with lace-like effects
an enchanting cohesive tone to the ensem-         and the proportions are unusually ‘subdued’
ble – the artist indeed often elects one driv-    for Lydia Courteille usually revels in bolder at-
ing colour for each collection – soft and mys-    tempts. Marie Antoinette Dark Side is noth-
terious at the same time. Yellow sapphires and    ing to be afraid of; it is actually a compassion-
quartz highlight some motifs and mostly for       ate and non-judgmental tribute to “the woman
the ‘early years’ creations, notably when it      whose charm and seductiveness was gradually
comes to evoking the sun and moon symbols.        degraded to unpopularity and disgrace”.
www.suzannesyz.ch                     Robinets Earrings in              Arctic Ice Ring in
                                      white gold set with 36            silver and enamel set
 Almond Green Ring                    diamonds and 10 green             with one 8.80-carat
 in gold and ceramic                  tourmalines (9.69cts).            Paraiba tourmaline from
 set with one green                   POA.                              Mozambique. POA.
 tourmaline. POA.




Another plethora of unique rings and ear-             Collection Earrings. The idea is to offer col-
rings were on show at the Suzanne Syz pre-            lectors the opportunity to have their own
sentation at the Ritz Paris. It is true that these    favourite artworks reproduced onto titani-
two product categories are her forte when             um earrings. The ultimate wearable art offer.
it comes to combining innovative ideas and            Other head-turning pieces are the Star Ship
playfulness. Colours have also always been            and the Robinets Earrings, two sensational
a passion for Syz and this has certainly in-          takes on Pop Art and humorous clin d’oeil.
fluenced the nature of her personal contem-           As for rings, Syz has a knack for large carat
porary art collection, from which she rou-            central stones once again in vibrant colours
tinely finds inspiration. Taking the concept          as seen in the hot Orange Velvet spessartite
of marrying art and jewellery to a higher lev-        garnet or Grass Green Velvet peridot rings,
el, she has designed the We are Your Art              a redefinition of what solitaires can be.
www.suzannesyz.ch


                        Andy Warhol, We are Your
                                                      Star Ship Earrings in
                        Art Collection Earrings in
                                                      gold and titanium set
                        gold and titanium set with
                                                      with diamonds. POA.
                        16 diamonds. POA.




                    Orange Velvet Ring in gold
                    and enamel set with one
                    11.89-carat spessartite garnet.
                    POA.
Next part ... Cancel