"The Road of Dante": cultural identity, experiential travel, and rural development - Il ...
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Scuola di Economia e Management Corso di Laurea Magistrale in Design of Sustainable tourism systems “The Road of Dante”: cultural identity, experiential travel, and rural development Relatore Prof. Benedetto Rocchi Candidato Costanza Nesti Anno Accademico 2019/2020
I hereby declare that this submission is my own work and that, to the best of my knowledge and belief, it contains no material previously published or written by another person nor material which has been accepted for the award of any other degree or diploma of the university or other institute of higher learning, except where due acknowledgement has been made in the text. Translation, adaptation in whole or in part, reproduction using any means (including media, microfilm and photocopy formats) and electronic storage are reserved in all countries. 2
Index Introduction 1. “The road of Dante” 6 1.1. The birth of “The road of Dante” 6 1.2. The stops of the itinerary 10 1.3. Old and new pilgrimage 13 2. Three territories with different identities 14 2.1. Parco del Delta del Po emiliano- romagnolo 14 2.2. Ravenna and Fiumi Uniti 16 2.3. Parco Regionale della Vena del Gesso Romagnola 18 2.4. Brisighella 20 2.5. Parco Nazionale delle Foreste del Casentino 22 2.6. San Benedetto in Alpe 25 3. Experiential travel 26 3.1 The meaning of experiential travel 26 3.2 “The road of Dante” as experiential travel 30 4. The case study: the influence of “The road of Dante” on the territories’ activities 35 4.1 Coronavirus outbreak impact on Italian tourism 36 4.2 Methodology 37 4.3 Results 38 4.4 Final considerations 52 Conclusions 56 References 59 Ringraziamenti 68 3
Abstract The concept of tourism has really changed and evolved in the last years, and nowadays it is more common to talk about experiential travel. Pilgrimages are associated to this new type of tourism, based on sustainability, the revalorisation of unknow territories and activities deeply in contact with local inhabitants and their traditions. The overall purpose of this thesis is to analyse the current impact of “The Road of Dante” - path developed in the last few years with the aim of celebrating Dante on his death anniversary - on the crossed territories, taking into consideration the fact that it is a young path, and that world has been facing a pandemic since 2020. The results are reached through interviews to hosting activities’ owners and local administrators. Keywords Experiential travel, pilgrimages, territories, Dante, path 4
Introduction Recently the concept of tourism has changed and will continue to change a lot. It remains the idea of “escaping from the daily routine” but nowadays it is not focused only on relaxation, entertainment and carefree, but also authentic experiences such as walking on ancient trails, tasting of local products, discovering new cultures or cooking classes. The experiential travel is a type of tourism based on emotions, something able to involve emotionally, physically, and mentally the customer. In fact, it is not important the destination, but the fact of living something memorable and immersive deeply in contact with the visited territory. Experiential travel is characterised by activities, enabling the tourist to interact with local inhabitants, their histories, and traditions, with the desire of living unique experiences to share and recount others. There has been a cultural evolution related to touristic consumption, shifting from a tourist package where tourists have a passive role, to a different one where costumers become the principal actors of their offer. The main concept is personalisation, allowing customers to create their own experiences based on their needs and tastes, totally different from the concept of mass tourism where the offered solutions are generalised and standardized. Since most of the activities related to experiential travel are sustainable and respect the environment, this new type of tourism is also a way to rediscover and valorise unknown territories, with the desire of attract tourists in marginal places and let them start an inner tourism economy. Italy has always been famous for its beautiful scenery, food, and artistic work, and nowadays people rediscover the pleasure of visiting these territories while walking on ancient paths or trails. Pilgrimage became one of the most suggestive way to live an authentic experience, considering that it crosses small villages and towns rich of Italian history and traditions. Walking on a route gives people the possibility not only to observe and appreciate carefully the surrounding, but also to meet other travellers and share each other cultures and past experiences. In fact as also an old member of CAI ( Club Alpino Italiano) says “ discovering Italy while walking is the best way to thank it for its beauty”(Erri De Luca). In addition, meeting local inhabitants enriches the walkers, leaving them something unforgettable and memorable. Following the model of experiential travel, “The Road of Dante” is an artistic, cultural, and natural itinerary, which follows the footsteps of the poet Dante Alighieri across Tuscany and Emilia Romagna after his exile. It is a mixture of 5
nature, art, history, and literature. During the path, wayfarers jump temporarily in the past, covering ancient paths and visiting medieval villages, where Dante really passed or slept. It is a young route, not so famous yet but with a great potentiality. This work aims at analysing the impact that for now “The road of Dante” have had on the crossed territories, on hosting activities and on the inner tourism of small villages. Through interviews to owners of dormitories or hostels and local administrators it has been possible to understand to what extent the route influences and maybe will influence the places in the future. Considering that the 2021 it is the year of anniversary of Dante’s death, and the path was included as the only Italian destination for the 2021 Best Travel by the famous guide Lonely Planet, the itinerary will surely become really covered after the pandemic. The first chapter of the dissertation is about the birth of “The road of Dante”, with the descriptions of all the stops and a comparison between old type of pilgrimages, only based on religious aim and new ones, driven by different reasons. The second chapter deals with the examination of the three most different territories crossed by the path, Parco del Delta del Po Emiliano- Romagnolo, Parco della Vena del Gesso Romagnola and Parco delle Foreste Casentinesi, with the explanation of their most important characteristics and the specific part that touches the trail. Later, the work focuses on the meaning of experiential travel, and the reason why “The road of Dante” can be described as a real experience, including the evidence of some trekkers that conclude all the itinerary. The last chapter is about the direct analysis, with the explanation of the methodology, the interviews, and the final consideration. This thesis has been written during a hard period for tourism and travels, but it can be a good starting point for the rebirth of a new type of tourism, based on sustainability, emotions and authenticity. 6
1. The road of Dante 1.1 The birth of “The road of Dante” “Midway upon the journey of our life, I found myself within a forest dark, for the straightforward pathway had been lost.” Dante Alighieri Figura 1.1. Route’s map ( Source: https://www.camminodante.com/) “The road of Dante” is the first itinerary organised through the paths and the medieval ways crossed by the poet Dante Alighieri after his exile from Florence, his birthplace, to reach Ravenna, where he died and where his tomb is. The route follows exactly the footsteps of Dante, during the years when wrote his most famous work Divina Commedia, one of the first poems written using the vernacular language, divided in Canti which depict Hell, Purgatory and Paradise in an unconventional way. The path was born from an idea developed in 2011 by his founder and pioneer Giordano Bezzi together with a heterogeneous group of people passionate about the poet, such as Oliviero Resta, who became the reference point for the walkers during the route. The itinerary is the result of studies and field explorations, supported by the work of historians and scholars, especially 7
Pietro Barberini, journalist and expert of the history of Ravenna and Romagna, and the writer and historian Osiride Guerrini. The research started in 2011 from the Centro Dantesco dei Frati minori Conventuali di Ravenna, a library which gathers the “codici, incunaboli, edizioni a stampa delle opere di Dante e su Dante” (Centro Dantesco, 2020), in order to collect all the information about the life and the passages of Dante during his exile. Over the same period, they began both the analysis of the road network related to the Early and Late Middle Age and the exploration of the Apennines mountains between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna, with field research and excursions. In 2012 the first stops were decided and tested, some routes were excluded from the itinerary, while others were included and carefully studied in Summer and Autumn, also identifying parish churches or castles as reference points for the walkers. After one year, the examination of the territory was expanded from Romagna towards Tuscany, exploring Sieve’s valley and Casentino’s area, including CAI (Club Alpino Italiano) paths and following old medieval roads and bridges. Firstly, there were some problems of communications and misunderstandings with the cities touched by Dante’s roads. Later it started a collaboration with the aim of presenting and promoting the future itinerary. The 2014 was the year of the birth of the Association Il Cammino di Dante, a no- profit organization founded by enthusiast members and volunteers, and there was the revision of the examined territory, signing dangerous sections or complicated passages. When the different stops were defined and the final route was almost finished, the association began creating posters with different parts of the Divina Commedia. After a constant and daily effort of the association across 20 stops and 395 km, the installation of all the thematic panels, the GPS tracking, and the delineation of agreements with hostels and eateries, in 2015 the itinerary was finally consolidated and presented on occasion of special conferences dedicated to the poet. With the aim of supporting the Association, people need to pay an inscription to walk on the itinerary, getting some useful materials, such as the map, the pilgrim’s credentials, and the list of all the hostels and rest stops affiliated with the organization. The walkers inaugurated “The road of Dante” in 2016. At the beginning the itinerary was followed only by acquaintances of the association’s members, and this was also a useful way to get a feedback of the path’s state in order to improve and maintain its conditions. From 2017, “The road of Dante”, reaching almost 100 walkers every year, was covered not only by wayfarers with a great passion for Dante and who could repeat 8
by heart the Divina Commedia but also by the ones who wanted to enjoy little-known landscapes and forgotten places. While new panels related to the Divina Commedia were fixed, the association intensified the collaboration with local agencies in charge of hosting pilgrims to present a wider offer and attract more people. In 2019 the itinerary was followed by about 500 pilgrims, who, according to their preference, decided to cover all the length of the route or only a part. The effort of the Association is; not only to contribute maintaining feasible the path for pilgrims, but also to spread the culture of Dante all around the world, especially in the youth and in new generations. For this reason, a lot of schools collaborate with the members to organise cultural events and small trips through the itinerary of Dante, to sensitise young people in valorising local culture and to involve them in developing and supporting new tourist projects. For the anniversary of Dante’s death, many initiatives were planned, such as “Le 7 meraviglie di Dante”, an original walk across the paths with theatrical actors, “SicCome Dante”, a collaboration with the schools of Brescia or “Borghi Danteschi”, lectures, exhibitions, or concerts in the medieval places of the Apennines. A lot of tour guides help the Association in spreading all around Italy the culture of Dante and in reviving the unknown localities where he lived or just passed. Especially Riccardo Starnotti, a guide who lived in Casentino, fell so in love with the poet that decided to wear his custom in every tour. In 2015 he also created “The roads of Dante in Casentino”, an itinerary of 14 stops from Florence to Poppi, following the footsteps of the poet across the Casentino’s valley. 9
1.2 The stops of the itinerary Figura 1.2 Following the red sign CD( Cammino di Dante) “The road of Dante” is a circular route from Ravenna to Florence across the Apennines and from Florence to the Ravenna coming back along the Casentino’s Valley. The itinerary is articulated between Emilia- Romagna and Tuscany, through medieval villages, woods, and parish churches, with a total of around 400 km and 20 stops to cover counter- clockwise. It starts from Ravenna, exactly from the burial monument of the poet in the church of San Francesco. Leaving the city centre and following the bank of the river Montone, wayfarers can reach the bridge of the second stop: Passo Vico. Then, across the famous Via Emilia, a roman way built to connect Piacenza to Rimini more than 2000 years ago, pilgrims can reach the third stop: Oriolo dei Fichi, a rural village dominated by a military tower to check enemy’s approach. The tower can be visited and from the top it is possible to enjoy a special view ranging over fields, farmsteads, and vineyards, including the crops of an old grapes, cultivated only in the surrounding of the village, which produce the Centesimino wine. Through the Parco Regionale della Vena del Gesso Romagnola, known for the karst systems, the walkers can find the fourth stop: Brisighella. It is considered one of the most beautiful rural villages of Italy, certified also by the Orange 10
Flag from the Touring Club. The village is surrounded by 3 chalky hills on which there is the Rocca Manfrediana, a medieval fortification built at the beginning of the 14 centuries, The Clock Tower and the Church of Monticino, where is venerated an old holy terracotta image. Another suggestive architecture in Brisighella is la Via degli Asini, an old, elevated street used for the transport of chalk on donkeys, now incorporated into adjacent buildings. The route continues towards the successive stop, the small medieval town of Gamberaldi and its abandoned church. Then going through the regional border, the path enters in Tuscany reaching the next stop: Marradi, a village framed by the Apennines, where the noble palaces and the uncontaminated atmosphere receive the travellers. Passing the following stop, L’ Eremo dei Toschi, a local company who also hosts pilgrims, the route returns to Emilia- Romagna, to reach one of the hardest stops: the mountain village of San Benedetto in Alpe, in the heart of the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi. The waterfall of Acquacheta, created by the river Montone, which falls 70 metres on a sandstone face, is one highlight of the itinerary. In the Divina Commedia it was compared by Dante to the Flegetonte, a blood river where thieves and murders had to spend their time. Next stop is the abbey of San Godenzo, where in 1302 took place a meeting between the White Guelfs of Dante and Ghibellines exiled from Florence. After moving across a dirt road, and climbing along the ridge of Monte Campaccio, pilgrims begin walking downhill to reach the subsequent stop: the Etruscan area of Dicomano. Following the bank of the river Sieve, “The road of Dante” meets Pontassieve, last stop before Firenze, the birthplace of Dante where the Museo Casa di Dante is located, must- see for walkers. The way back overcomes the Arno river near Rignano, and enters the Casentino’s valley, dominated by the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste del Casentino. 11
Figura 1.3 Walking towards Pieve Pitiana The park connects Toscana to Romagna and is covered by centuries-old beeches and fir trees. After crossing the woods, it crosses cobbled streets until Pieve Pitiana, a Romanesque parish church. It climbs between olive fields, it overpasses the fir woods of Vallombrosa and moves on across cobblestones to reach the small village of Prato di Strada. Poppi is a deviation that is worth doing, in order to explore the wallet city and the Castle of Conti Guidi. Continuing across the Casentino’s wood, the successive stop is Fiumicello near Premilcuore, a very small village, frozen in time and connected to other cities by windy streets. Located near the village wayfarers find the Grotta Urlante, a waterfall dropping in a mirror of water surrounded by rocks, with the name recalling the noise produced by the water falling on stones, like an infernal scream. After 8 km the route encounters an old mill and the Ponte della Maestà, a one-arch medieval bridge with the original paving, until Portico di Romagna, a small town enclosed with mountains, woods, and waterfalls. The following stop is Dovadola, the oldest village of the itinerary, next to the Eremo di Montepaolo, where Sant’Antonio from Padova lived for some years. Leaving the Apennines, “The road of Dante” proceeds downhill, across the thermal city of Castrocaro and his fortification, to reach Forlì, a city located along the Via Emilia. 12
Following the bank of the river Montone towards the Parco Fluviale of Ravenna, it passes across the bridge Passo Vico and finally arrives back to Ravenna. Figura 1.4 Funeral monument of Dante in Ravenna (Source: https://www.camminodante.com/) 1.3 Old and new pilgrimage The contemporary phenomenon of walking along famous routes, such as “The road of Dante” or Via Francigena, dates back to the religious pilgrimage of the medieval period. It was an intentional journey where the pilgrim, usually alone, walked toward a church or a sanctuary to feel his God closer, or to reach the salvation of the spirit and the purification. Since the nature and the vegetation of the medieval period were not already acclimated by man, the journey was harder and more difficult, so it was rare for a walker to come back safe or alive. Still today, the act of walking is a challenge against each one’s own limits, in order to find himself through meditation, which is always present during a pilgrimage, especially when travelling alone. Nowadays, the motivations for departing are in part different, since pilgrims are not only driven by religion but also by the simple curiosity of discovering new places and territories, different cultures and traditions and sometimes also testing their physical abilities. It is said that the act of walking has a healing power, with the capacity of disconnecting temporarily the walkers 13
from their daily routine and regular concerns, in order to enjoy the landscapes and reach the destination. In modern times, many studies outline that the religious pilgrimage no longer exists, but there is only the secular one (Collins- Kreiner ,2010). Generally, travels have undergone significant changes, which contribute to evolve the paradigm of pilgrimages and religious tourism, since now people search for a new physical and psychological wellness and authentic touristic experiences, which focus on the spiritual and cultural dimension of the journey. For these different interests and points of view, tourism and pilgrimage converged and create new touristic offers, which adopt external form of pilgrimages, losing at the same time the religious experiences and the holy idea (De Salvo, 2016). In this new approach the pilgrim and the tourist are closer, and during the experience the individual looks for a different spirituality which, without being religious, helps the wayfarer to find him\herself (Eberhart, 2005). Today walking is an alternative way of travelling, based on slowness, the opposite of the hectic everyday life and mass tourism. Travelling on foot provides the time required to understand, observe, and get in contact with nature and local inhabitants (Canestrini, 2001). Slow Tourism is a philosophy of life also related to tourism, which promotes the quality of the experience, the focus on local products and typical characteristics of places, taking care about sustainability. Especially during the 2021 year, due to the pandemic, a tourism of proximity is to be preferred, such as the outdoor, rural and Eno gastronomic ones, to relaunch small village, unknown places and forgotten territories. For all these reasons, “The road of Dante” was included in the Best in Travel 2021 of the Lonely Planet Guide, rewarded as the only Italian stage in the sustainability section. It is a way to rediscover the beautiful territory of two regions, Tuscany, and Emilia Romagna, valorising the figure of the poet considered “the father of the Italian language” where the wayfarers embark not only in a cultural and natural itinerary but also in a literature one. The route stops in several places directly mentioned in the Divina Commedia or experienced during Dante’s road, such as medieval castles, Romanesque churches, forgotten woods or waterfalls. It passes through steep or gentle climbs, reflecting the opposite feelings of each man that crosses this authentic path, physically demanding and emotionally rich. 14
2. Three territories with different identities The road of Dante is a heterogeneous itinerary that crosses a great variety of territories, such as riverbanks, hills, mountains, woods and valleys. Each area has its own rural characteristics, economy, specific features, and way of interacting with the route. Especially, there are three zones with distinctive identities: Parco del Delta del Po Emiliano- Romagnolo, Parco Regionale della Vena del Gesso Romagnola and Parco Nazionale delle Foreste del Casentino. 2.1 Parco del Delta del Po Emiliano- Romagnolo Figura 2.1 Parco Delta del Po (Source: https://www.travelemiliaromagna.it/autunno-slow-delta-del- po/) “Enter the Po Delta Park on tiptoe, open your eyes, open your ears, and clear the nostrils. If you have forgotten, you will learn again to go slowly, to observe, to listen, to smell. Get closer with respect to the world of nature and you will be respected. Amazement, wonder, curiosity will be your travelling companions in the woods and pine forests, along rivers and canals, and in the lagoons between cultivated fi elds, until you reach the sea, where it rests on the sand dunes and slips into the flooded meadows.” (Massimo Medri, 2013) 15
Parco del Delta del Po Emiliano-Romagnolo has unique environmental and ecological characteristics. It extends on a surface of more than 52.000 hectares, not only environmentally rich but also economically developed, since it has been a cultural and economic crossroad between the East and the West from the past. The park was instituted in 1988 and its fundamental element is water. Delta del Po is the set of the fluvial branches which allow the river Po, born from the Monviso, to flow through all the Pianura Padana and emerge into the Adriatic Sea. The habitat of the park is made of natural environments and ecosystems attesting the remarkable richness and biological variety of the territory; they can be classified into six macro categories: coastal lagoons and halophytic vegetation, dune’s systems, freshwater habitats, prairies, peatlands, and woods. Due to the different types of territories of the park, the flora is characterized by a great diversity of species, like Salicornia radicans and halophytes in coastal lagoons, common oaks or holm oaks in woods, sea buckthorns in dune’s systems, calcareous fens with sedges in prairies and wheatgrass in peatlands and freshwater areas. All these zones are inhabited by different faunistic communities, marked by a unique variety, from invertebrate species to mammals, becoming one of the greater values of the park. The park was recognized as “Riserva di Biosfera” in the programme “Man and Biosphere” UNESCO, a scientific programme with the aim of promoting a balanced relationship between men and environment through the protection of biodiversity and the development of sustainable tourism. Over the years, man added his work, such as many water drainages plumbing and reclamation, some of them finished recently. All these measures made the Delta del Po a very anthropized territory, with production plants, road networks and a population, living mainly in big cities as Ravenna and Ferrara, of forty thousand residents. Since the human intervention can be found more in the upstream part than in the downstream one, the small urban settlements are present more in that anthropized area than in the wild one. The main productive activities, thanks to the old drainages and wetlands, are agriculture, mainly cereals corn and rise, and fishing. Fish farming, raising and reproduction of fish usually for food, and acquaculture, the rearing of aquatic organisms, are some of the other businesses. There are different salt pans for salt production, a very profitable good for the park. The Salina of Cervia uses an artificial way of harvesting, while the old Salina Camillone, integral part of the Salt Museum, remains the last original one where salt is harvested 16
by hand to preserve the labour of saltworkers. Regarding tourism, Parco del Delta del Po emiliano-romagnolo was recently appreciated again as a slow destination, for its extraordinary landscapes, enabling people to enjoy experiences totally in contact with nature and based on authenticity. Above all, it is one of the most famous places for birdwatching thanks to the numerous species of water birds, finding a perfect habitat where eating, seeking refuge, and building a nest. Especially during the migratory routes, from July to October and from February to April, it can become a paradise for naturalists, photographers and biologists who can join exclusive experiences such as boat ride at sunrise or sunset with an environmental guide, who can provide all the required information. The park is also known for the cycle tourism, since there are many unique routes along river’s bank and woods both for adults and children to discover the hidden beauties of the heterogeneous area. Besides bikes, there are different ways to cross the park: people can book motor vessels to move closer to the typical wildlife, excursions on horseback or make a trip with an electric minibus to respect the environment. This area is full of different types of museums, artistic, ecologic or historical ones, and Centri Visita, centre where tourists can experience didactive and recreational initiatives to study not only the naturalistic characteristics of the territory but also its authentic history. 2.2 Ravenna and Fiumi Uniti Ravenna is the starting point of “The road of Dante”, which begins exactly from the funeral monument of Dante located in the church of San Francesco in the historic centre. The city has always been characterized by the water element that created seas, swamps, and rivers. Originally Ravenna stood on islets directly in contact with the sea, which, after moving away from the inhabited area, caused a landfill of the city. This outcome is due to the presence of several rivers which flow into the surrounding of Ravenna, and during seasonal floods carry soil and debris from the Apennines towards the sea. The three most important rivers for the history of the city are: Lamone, Ronco and Montone. In particular, Ronco and Montone are interesting for our itinerary, since in the first part the walkers follow the bank of these rivers. During the thirteenth century the courses of the two rivers surrounded the wall of Ravenna, respectively the first in the south, and 17
the second in the north west, to then gather towards Adriatic Sea. On one hand, both rivers were important as water supply and as protection of the walls from enemies, but on the other, Ravenna was usually inundated due to repetitive break of the embankment system. In order to solve this problem, at the beginning of the eighteen century it was created a tract of manmade stream bed where was diverted the confluence of Ronco and Montone about 3 km away from the city, creating Fiumi Uniti, which changed the hydrographic asset of the ravennate territory. In the same period, it was realized the Chiusa di San Marco with the aim of regulating the flow of the two rivers and of diverting the water for the mills of the city. Next to the Chiusa it was created also an artificial canal towards the Panfilio: the old port channel, where it is possible to see the convergence of Ronco and Montone. The river system of Fiumi Uniti is strategic to create an area of fluvial tutelage, in order to develop sustainable tourism allowing the ravennate population to live it properly. The best course of action is to make enjoyable a unique environmental patrimony, building a model of integration between man and nature, to hand down to future generations. So, the project includes not only engineering measures, but also the recovery of the historic memory, valorisation, fruition, conservation, and maintenance of the area. The programme, hold by the municipal administration of Ravenna, is called “Progetto partecipativo Fiumi uniti per tutti”, with the other aim to create a connection between two zones environmentally important: Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi and Parco regionale del Delta del Po. The project is a starting point for promoting and supporting the natural heritage, involving not only institutional bodies but also all the surrounding population. 18
2.3 Parco Regionale della Vena del Gesso Romagnola Figura 2.2 Calanchi ( Source: https://www.camminodante.com/) The “Parco regionale della Vena del Gesso Romagnola” preserves and fosters a high- value area, standing out in the northern Apennines as an incomparable example of mountain range made up only of chalk. In the Lamone’s valley, the hills are crossed by a silvery grey ridge 25 km-long, becoming the longest chalky relief in Italy and ensuring a unique aspect to the landscape. The Vena is composed of one type of chalk, and due to its glint, totally different from the surrounding rocks, it is known as “moonstone” or “selenite”. Its rocky formation is called gypsum sulfurous, which is present from Piedmont to Sicily and can be compared to a big fossil salt-mine deposited after the Gibraltar closure and the draining of the Mediterranean Sea. There is a superficial and underground karstification caused by the partial solubility of the rock, originating sinkholes, blind valleys, and a lot of caves, some of them enormous. The diversity of Parco Regionale della Vena del Gesso Romagnola compared to the Apennines, enables to find a distinct morphology with a specific microclimate, flora, and fauna. Although the usually harsh and irregular habitat, the flora is very varied, from the orchids in spring and the lilies in June, to the carnations in autumn. The park is inhabited by many animal species, such as invertebrates and bats in the dark and quiet caves, wild cats and wolves and different types of birds. In some parts of the area, there are visible signs of 19
the past mining activity, especially the mine of the Monte Tondo which is still active today. Since the chalk represented a fundamental element for the mining activity, the economy of this territory was strongly linked to this business since Roman times, and nowadays it is considered an essential feature to define the identity of the local community. Due to the harness of the territory, the karst phenomena and the frequent landslides, the water shortage and the poor fertility of the soil, the relationship between men and environment was complex and variegated. In proto-history caves were used as shelters, for burials of rich families, or as places of worship and votive offerings. Thanks to the discovery of rural building, the presence of men has been demonstrated also in Roman times; later, in medieval period, religious and military settlement (Brisighella and Tossignano) raised exactly on la Vena del Gesso, thanks to the development of mining activity and to the processing of chalk as a material for construction. It was a unique technique: the chalk was cut in blocks, then processed, and put together with mortar, realised by cooked chalk re-arranged with water as binder. The chalky territory did not permit a great variety of agriculture, it was only possible to cultivate chestnut fruits. The only exception are the areas close to the Vena, where the south-facing rocks generate a particular microclimate, ideal for some specific Mediterranean crops such as olive or apricot trees, the most common cultures of northern Apennines. With the improvement of communication and the industrial growth of the Padana area, peasants of the Apennines moved towards to the valley, with the aim of looking for better jobs and more convenient houses, creating a rapid and consistent de-population of mountains. All the traces left by human presence are a great value and important for the development of tourism. Firstly, the value of the Vena del Gesso was only quantified in terms of economy and money, to bring profits and economic prosperity. At a later stage, all the mining sites were closed due to the mechanization of the quarries, and to the pressure coming from ecological associations for environmental damages. The old extraction and industrial centres, their machines and work tools, have then become a very important heritage to be preserved and respected. The Parco Nazionale della Vena del Gesso provides a great variety of touristic offers, based on the seasonality and that suit different preferences and targets. Sporty people can enjoy four circular trails run by the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI), partly accessible by bikes or on horseback, to explore each sector and discover hidden 20
sceneries. Near the Centri di Visita, especially Rifugio cà Carnè at Brisighella and “I Gessi e il Fiume” in Tossignano, people can experience guided tours inside geologic museums, didactive class on specific subjects or ask all the needed information to discover the park autonomously. There is also the possibility to visit two caves with excursionist guides: the cave of Re Tiberio and the cave of Tanaccia, both characterized by karst systems and suggestive habitats. Since the park protects and promotes a big area, including inhabited centres with their own products and activities, the Ente di gestione per i Parchi e la Biodiverità, which managed the territory since 2012, began to create a brand to promote the quality production on the territory. The aim is to open the park to the economic world and try to sell products linked to the history of their land. In this area can be found the extra virgin olive oil of Brisighella, the chestnuts of Castel del Rio, apricots of Santerno’s valley, moretto artichokes, wines of Romagna, and a lot of typical cheeses and several types of meat. The idea is to create an image of the park and launch the products on the market with this specific brand, reflecting the authenticity and genuineness of the productions, in order to attract also more tourists interested in local food and goods. 2.4 Brisighella After walking between plantations, pilgrims begin climbing on the ridge between vineyards, calanchi and wild vegetation, enjoying one of the most beautiful panoramas of “The road of Dante” until they reach the fourth stop of the itinerary: the rural and hospital village of Brisighella in Lamone’s valley, celebrated as a slow travel destination. Its origin is related to the thirteenth century when the lord Maghinardo built a defence tower, instead of the current Clock tower, to control the passage from the Ghibelline Romagna to the Guelf Florence. Brisighella is a hidden gem, rich in traditions, typical food, artistic and scenic beauties, and it has also been recognized with prestigious certifications, testifying an excellent quality of life. The territory of the village, characterized by three surrounding chalky hills, belongs to Parco Regionale della Vena del Gesso Romagnola, and shows singular landscapes and naturalistic peculiarities, such as calanchi. Calanchi are a geomorphologic phenomenon, present from Sillaro’s to Ronco’s valley, with a particular conformation, creating a harsh land, furrowed by small 21
narrow valleys with sharp rocky peaks. The structure of these pinnacles is caused by the friable territory, made of clay and impermeable rocks, and by the erosion of the atmospheric agent, especially meteoric waters, without a defined course and following the slopes of the relief. Calanchi were originated when the Padana hollow was covered by the sea, becoming the Golfo Padano, and as a proof of this phenomenon we can find some marine fossil species. Thanks to these unique characteristics Brisighella is really appreciated by both walkers and tourists. 2.5 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste del Casentino 2.3 Following the sign CD (Cammino di Dante) into the Casentino’s forest Parco Nazionale delle Foreste del Casentino, located in the Apennines between Tuscany and Romagna, through the city of Forlì, Arezzo, and Florence, was instituted in 1993. It is one of the most prestigious and old forest areas in Europe, with fascinating woods of different shades of colours, with a great variety of flora and fauna, and full of inhabited villages rich of history and artistic heritage. The story of the park started with Etruscan population and in the medieval period it was used as a crossroad by pilgrims from North 22
and East Europe. In the Renaissance period it was controlled by Opera del Duomo di Firenze, a secular institution (still existing) which used to run the forest using its wood for the construction of the Dome of Brunelleschi in Florence and the ship shafts of the naval fleets of Livorno and Pisa. The landscape of Parco Nazionale delle Foreste del Casentino is marked by sedimentary rocks, and while in the Romagna side it presents steep slopes covered by a thick forest canopy together with layers of living rock, in the Tuscany part the scenery is gentle, with woods, pastures, chestnut trees and cultivated fields. Considering the natural conditions of the park, its territory has been preserved until now thanks to the monastic settlements of San Romualdo, the foundation of the Eremo di Camaldoli in 1212, and the presence in the sanctuary La Verna of San Francesco from Assisi. Both constructions represent an interesting centre, full of spiritual and symbolic importance. Due to the extension of the forest, the variety of the vegetation and the low population density, the area stands out also for the faunistic richness. Wolves and hoofed animals are the most common mammals in the park, the birdlife is full of raptors such as the honey buzzard and the sparrowhawks, and the feared Vipera the invertebrate species. The park is covered mostly by centuries-old forest, but the flora is constituted by herbaceous species, which can be examined and studied in the botanic garden of Valbonella at Corniolo. It gathers and provides information on the principal local vegetation environments with more than 400 species. Due to the variety of habitats and the protective regime, the territory of the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste del Casentino is divided in 4 areas. Each area, thanks to its varied environmental characteristics, allows different authorizations for human interventions. The “Zona A di Riserva Integrale” includes some excellent naturalistic treasures, such as the Riserva Naturale Integrale di Sassofratino and Riserva di Monte Falco. Here the man’s work is almost absent, in order to preserve integrally the environment. The “Zona B” allows activities with the aim of improving its specific ecosystem, but it’s necessary to maintain the characteristics of the park unaffected. The natural and environmental resources present in the “Zona C” comprises areas transformed by men, which require an equilibrium between the settlements and the natural environment. Therefore, it needs not only to be protected but also to be valorised. The “Zona D” represents the more anthropized area, with inhabited villages, centres destinated to traditional productive activities and places with historic and touristic value. The territory of the park was experienced by several communities, as 23
evidenced by muleteers, ruins, and parish churches reminiscing of a world, made of simplicity and sacrifices, that nowadays has totally changed. In the past there were inhabitants proud of their lands, which, at the end of the twentieth century, have undergone a big depopulation because of historical and cultural changes, and due to the urbanization of the Post-War period. Even today there is a low population density, a higher average age, and little birth-rates. Thanks to the project “I Popoli del Parco”, it is possible to restore, conserve and valorise the patrimony of knowledge of this communities, in order to freeze their experiences and lives in books, interviews, photos or exhibitions. In modern times, the productive activities of the territory took inspiration from the ones from the past. For example, the woodworking has always been an important activity for Casentino’s valley, and while before they used to create rural objects and tools for animals, now the processing of wood has become a real art and it is used for great quality furniture. The manufacture of flax and wool is a profitable business, and the area is famous for the “Panno Casentino”, a typical wool manufacturing characterized by a curly surface finish. Casentino’s zone can boast a variety of chestnuts and mushrooms, which are sold to the surrounding cities and regions. In the last year, due to the pandemic and the rediscover of open spaces, the park has experienced a raise in both Italian and foreigner’s tourists arrives, making the tourist sector a fruitful industry. The best way to cross the park is on foot, in fact there is an infinite variety of thematic itineraries, from the simple to the hardest ones, which can be covered also by bikes or on horseback. A lot of schools collaborate with the park to organise trips for scholars and explain them the importance of preserving the forest focusing on a more sustainable tourism inside didactic and informative structures. Moreover, the Parco Nazionale delle Foresta del Casentino has been individuated by the island of Shikoku (an island in Japan famous for spiritual pilgrimage itineraries) as an ideal forest for Shinrin- Yoku therapy, “bagno di foresta”. This cure is a way to fight the negative effects of technology on humans, and let people experience all the benefits coming from the contact with nature and improve their wellness, through several practises. With doctors, environmental guides, and experts, it is possible to go through the park with a programme of sensorial activities such as walking, listening of noises produced by water or wind, tasting of specific culinary excellences and discovering floral composition. 24
2.6 San Benedetto in Alpe Leaving Marradi, “The road of Dante” meets the mountain village San Benedetto in Alpe in the middle of Parco Nazionale delle Foreste del Casentino, between Emilia Romagna and Tuscany. The leg to reach this stop is one of the longest and most physically demanding, but pilgrims are rewarded by the fascinating landscape. San Benedetto in Alpe is located on two levels: the first part called Molino, for the mills that can be found along the stream Acquacheta, and the second where the Benedictine monks erected their abbey. The name and the history of the village derive exactly from this homonym construction founded by San Romualdo and his disciples at the beginning of the eleventh century, assembling all the small groups of hermits that lived in the areas. Later the ruling abbots made the monastery one of the richest and most important of the Tosco-emiliano Appenines together with properties between Forlì, Faenza, and Florence. In this flourishing period, it is said that the poet Dante Alighieri during his exile passed near the village and was impressed by the waterfall of Acquacheta, comparing its noise to the Flegetonte, the river mentioned in the Divina Commedia. The richness of the flora and the fauna, the unique scenery, and the fame of the poem made the waterfall a heritage that deserves to be protected, valorised and known by everyone. After one hour of walking, the wayfarers encounter the famous waterfall, whose water, falling from the summit, covers almost seventy metres before joining the river Lavane. Due to the surrounding landscape, such as a big rock outcrops, and thanks to the disposal of the water and the enormous jump, this spot has a picturesque and evocative beauty. 25
3. Experiential travel 3.1 The meaning of experiential travel “After all, the only rule of travel is, don’t come back the way you went. Come a new way”. Anne Carson Recently the concept of tourism and travel has changed a lot. Destinations are no longer seen only as physical subjects, but as a combination of tourism products, being able to provide an integrated experience to consumers (Buhalis, 1999). Once people travelled with the aim of leaving the daily routine and taking a short break, nowadays it is more common to talk about experiential travel. Research shows that experiences are one of the most important trends in the tourism industry (Lagiewski, Zekan, 2006). In the last decade, the experiential travel became one of the people’s most appreciated ways of travelling. In fact, TripAdvisor ,comparing 2018 to 2017, sees an increase of 45% in selling experiences globally and of the 59% in Italy only, when experiences are defined as artistic, literature or eno-gastronomic tours, enabling tourists to immerse themselves in the local culture of the chosen destination. In addition, the global market of experiential travel reached 254 billion dollars in 2019, as estimated in a research of Arival, a company dedicated to advance the business of creating amazing in-destination experiences. What does experiential travel mean? For some, experiential travel means doing anything that falls outside of a standard sightseeing, museum-going itinerary. For others, it is defined by interactions with locals or by going to places that might not be considered tourist attractions at all (Josh Lew, 2017), while Schneider (2004) describes it as a “travel that enriches the soul while broadening the mind”. The experiential travel is based on the assets of authenticity and sustainability, similar to the concept of slow travel and far from mass tourism. Travellers can rediscover their own localities, change perspective and immerse themselves in the life and traditions of local inhabitants, without visiting remote destinations only to follow actual trends. In fact, many 26
consumers look for local attributes and consider everyday life of local people an authentic experience (Richards, 2011). Especially the so called “last and third generation tourists” search for unique and personalised experiences, which enable them to feel, discover, and learn something unknown and off the beaten tracks (Hence, 2018). It is connected to the idea of conscious “travellers”, who do not choose a journey for the destination but for the intimate experience it provides them, - far from the idea of “tourists”, who sometimes are just interested in taking pictures and sharing them on social networks. This turns passive viewers to active ones, who instead of only observing, they travel to “do” things and interact with the culture of the destination (Hence, 2018). Shedroff (2001) thinks that there is also a specific segment of tourists, only looking for unique experiences, called “experiential”. The twenty-first century tourists are known by their sophisticated taste, they favour less exploited tourist products in order to discover new original experiences (Hence, 2018). So, the idea is to provide personalised experiences tailored to the guest, different from the other offers and unique, preserving the authenticity of the territory in a simple and natural way. The consumer should be engaged in the design of the experience, developing an interactive tourism, where travellers have different ranges of options based on their preferences, emotions, tastes or whatever they search for (Alvarez, 2015). According to the Travel Market Report (2016), tourists know what they want and became more expert in explaining their needs to the tourist agencies, that is why they turned to be more autonomous subjects, creating their journeys instead of buying already built itineraries (Hence, 2018). The offer, less standardised, focuses on the emotional aspect and it is intended to teach something about a place, allowing the person to understand its deep soul through experience of daily life. Local population is always engaged, helping the traveller to play the game in first person, stressing the concept of “doing” instead of “seeing”. That is why websites, travel agencies or private company started selling on the market alternative types of offers, from culinary or wine classes, to excursions on famous itineraries or the possibility to immerse into some activity passionate about. Research suggests that experiences can contribute to differentiate a destination’s offer and to provide new original services (Lagiewski, Zekan, 2006). Generally, destinations aim at 27
increasing customers loyalty, building an emotional bond and providing reasons for them to want to come back. Competing with experiences is a more recent approach used by destination management organizations, which started offering activities available only in visiting that place, in order to create interest for that specific destination (Banff Lake Louise Tourism, 2005). Consumer experiences is described by LaSalle and Britton (2003) as “interactions between a customer and a product, a company, or its representative that leads to a reaction”. Especially Lagiewski and Zekan (2006) in their paper explain the concept of diversification through experiences analysed by Pine and Gilmore (1999). Nowadays since the market demand shifts from commodities to experiences, companies must invest and propose a new type of offer, based on experience as a form of differentiation (Pine, Gilmore, 1999). Pine and Gilmore consider experiences as events that personally involve everyone, who is able to create a memory, constituting the value of these specific experiences. As mentioned above, individuals are engaged in a personal way, so it could not be possible that two people live the same experience (Pine, Gilmore, 1999). Since experiences are absolutely sensory and it is important what the person sees, hears, smells, touches and tastes, Pine and Gilmore (1999) states that “the more effectively an experience engages the senses, the more memorable it will be” (Lagiewski, Zekan, 2006). According to Ritchie and Crouch (2003), the tourism experience is composed by four dimensions that should be all taken into consideration when creating the offer. The first dimension is the hedonics, such as doing something memorable or challenging; the second one is the peace of mind, meaning to have physical comfort and safety along privacy and relaxation; the third one is the involvement, and the fourth one is recognition (Lagiewski, Zekan, 2006). Since Nugraha in a study (2019) showed that tourist satisfaction influences revisit intention, he believes that customer satisfaction should be used as a benchmark in the achievement of the company’s performance ( Lee, Chang, 2014). Satisfaction is strictly related to the value of the experience and it can grow in the customer after comparing the perceived performance with the expected one (Kotler, Keller, 2016). Also Hyunjin(2013) states that satisfaction is the key to companies’ success and satisfied tourists are the ones who will surely come back. Sangpikul (2018) determines four indicators to measure travellers’ satisfaction: products and services, people and culture, safety and cleanliness and overall satisfaction. Products and services are related to tourists’ attractions and services 28
provided by the agencies; people and culture linked to the friendliness of locals and their culture; safety and cleanliness is connected to the protection of customers during the journey and tourist destinations environmental hygiene and the overall satisfaction is a picture of tourist satisfaction as a whole (Nugraha, 2019). Memorable aspects, directly related to feelings of customers, are essential elements in shaping tourists’ satisfaction and consequently impact on revisit intention, affecting traveller loyalty (Sangpikul, 2019). So, in order to provide an unforgettable experience and fulfil the desire and demand of tourists, the company can also use the experiential marketing’s strategy ( Zhang, 2017). The concept of experiential marketing is the marketing concept of transformation, which focuses not only on the benefits of the physical product, but mostly on customer’s emotional side ( Schmitt, 2010). It is a tourist-based approach which tries to involve emotions and feelings with facilities and services aiming at creating a deep impression, to obtain the result of revisit intention (Schmitt, Zarantonello, 2013; Tsaur, 2007). Krishna Yadav and Krishnan ( 2014) affirm that the idea of using experiential marketing in tourism sector refers to the 1980 when Krippendorf affirmed that the marketing tactics used by some heritage destinations is in some way a sale of experiences (Leighton, 2007). While the first businesses that started selling experiences were theme parks and theatres, nowadays that concept is spreading in every area (Pine, Gilmore, 1998). Generally, experiential marketers consider consumers as rational and emotional human beings who search for pleasurable experiences (Schmitt, 1999). The major task is to empower the guest to feel as a local, for example cooking with the owners in a farmhouse, harvesting grapes directly on fields, walking surrounded by nature or going fishing with a real fisherman. It is important to propose unique experiences, which cannot be found in other places since strongly associated with that specific location. The experiential travel can impress the traveller, who will remember an experience over times, thanks to the emotions felt. Indeed, Krishna Yadav and Krishnan (2014) remarked that the experience and its value do not end as soon as the customer come back home, but “it is the immediate pleasure as well as the memories that the client gets after the trip”. 29
3.2 “The road of Dante” as an experiential travel Figura 3.1 First stop from Florence Pilgrimages studies have emerged in the last years as a new field of investigation going beyond basic definitions that boxed sacred travels into religious or historical paradigms (Greenia, 2014). In their study (2019) Wu, Chang and Wu wrote that pilgrimage is one of the most known religious and cultural phenomena. Once it was described as a journey driven only by religious motivation, nowadays is defined differently, “as a traditional religious or modern secular journey” (Collins- Kreiner, 2018). According to Barber (1993), pilgrimage is a trip resulting from religious purposes externally to a holy site, and internally for spiritual aims and inner understandings. During the pilgrimage, walkers receive a narrative skeleton dealing with their past, and after the journey, all of them have experienced emotional healing related to their past pain (Warfield, Baker, Foxx, 2014). Greenia in his paper (2014) analyses the benefits that pilgrimage-travel offers and affirms, “it fulfils the quest for authenticity, being a genuine experience of another age or belief system by replicating the lifestyle of those who sought it before us”. The experience of pilgrimage is considered able to create lasting memories, being something to recollect and something that resist time itself. It is said that pilgrims, after their return ,“ acquire status as living souvenirs that a community holds as keepers of 30
memories of what’s been achieved, validated and given human form” ( Davidson, Gitlitz, 2002). In addition, off-trails form of ego definition, such as uniform dress code, level of education, money, or specific costume, usually disappear during the walk, since all the pilgrims are equal (Davidson, Gitlitz, 2002). The journey obtains an imprecise “transactional value”, meaning that a major effort may have a major reward in terms of cure, healing, expiation of guilt or sin or a type of protection ( Greenia, 2014). Moreover, when wayfarers arrive at the end of the journey, reaching a site, considered by others meaningful for non- material reasons, they will feel enriched, changed, and connected to values that go beyond the normal ones of individuals. The memory of that journey, the identity it confers to each travellers and the need to live an authentic experience should be powerful motivators that encourage people onto the trail ( Greenia, 2014). As mentioned above, the new forms of tourism are characterised by active experiences enabling the customers not only to rediscover the cultural and spiritual dimension of the travel but also to immerse themselves into the real atmosphere and live the charm evocated by the places (De Salvo, 2016). Although in the contemporary society the motivation for visiting holy places is changing and people are mainly driven by cultural, etic, or social reason, recently there has been a revival of religious sites (Digance,2003). In addition, the visit of holy places coexists with the demand of traveling on historic itineraries, such as old pilgrimage routes, empowering tourists to live experience based on authenticity, spirituality, culture and to build a strong connection between people and places. For this reason, De Salvo in her paper (2016) mentions the concept of “pilgrimage landscape” of Alderman ( 2002) : an experiential cultural space which involves many material and immaterial elements, strengthening the importance of the relation between the religious attraction and the visited territory ( Andriotis, 2011). In fact, tourists who usually choose destinations or paths with a religious connotation and a mystic significance, not necessarily are driven by religion, but also by cultural or artistic motivation together with the desire of visiting that specific territory. Every cultural and religious itinerary can be a form of sustainable tourism, which can offer new opportunities to meet different cultures, a mode of socializing and a way to create relations with local communities, focusing on the relational dimension (Parkins, 31
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