WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority

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WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority
Think                      See                       Do
Urban issues that matter   The city in new light   Tips on shaping the city

         WANDER
          MORE     What makes Chinatown Chinatown?

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WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority
We seek to stay                            Explore
                                           03                                07                                11                                 15

curious with                               Croc meat and
                                           calligraphy
                                                                             Birds’
                                                                             haven
                                                                                                               How do you
                                                                                                               revitalise a river?
                                                                                                                                                  What if you could
                                                                                                                                                  cycle this island?

wanderlust
                                           Step inside clan                  The birds are flocking            Re-experiencing Singapore’s        Photographer Joseph Nair
                                           associations and wet              back to Kranji Marshes,           longest river, we catch a          tries out 3 cycling routes
                                           markets to uncover what           Singapore’s largest               glimpse of its past and            unveiling stunning views that
                                           makes Chinatown feel like         freshwater marshland. We          future.                            entice us to step on that bike
                                           Chinatown.                        find out why.                                                        again.

and wonder in                              See

understanding
                                           21                                23                                26                                 28
                                           Drawing the                       If Tin Tin                        Physical spaces                    Who is
                                           city: batman                      visits                            are more                           that guy

our city.
                                           and dragons                       Singapore…                        than shells                        in white?
                                           4 out of 33 artists reveal        Inspired by Tin Tin and           Artist Koh Hong Teng tells us      How do you get people to
                                           personal glimpses of              Doraemon, illustrator Lee         why we need to tell stories        remember forgotten places?
                                           Singapore’s cityscape with        Xin Li draws us into an           about buildings and places.        By taking selfies…of a
                                           their works exhibited along the   alternate universe of this                                           different kind.
                                           sidewalks of the URA Centre       island.
                                           celebrating Singapore’s 50th
                                           birthday in 2015.

                                           31                                35
                                           Time                              Serangoon
                                           travelling with                   Road is not just
                                           Royston Tan                       ‘Little India’
                                           Filmmaker Royston Tan             4 photographers and 30
                                           on panda-hunting and              students delved deeper to peel
                                           preserving memories.              away the rich layers of this
                                                                             historic enclave in a year-long
The physical and living spaces around                                        documentation project.
us are “not just shells that encase us,
but are an extension of ourselves,” says   Think
comic artist Koh Hong Teng on what
fascinates him about buildings and         39                                43                                46                                 48
places. They are imprints in time and      Lessons from                      Designing for                     Making streets                     From cooking to
space that hold stories and secrets of     Tiong Bahru’s                     communities                       safer for the                      harvesting flies
what was before and what is to come.       block 55                                                            disabled
Intimately linked to who we are and
                                           What can a humble block           Enabling Village’s people-        Debra Lam, co-founder of           Meet Ng Jia Quan,
how we live, we seek to stay curious       teach us about our past and       centric design has been           Society Staples, wants to create   Singapore’s insect farmer at
with wanderlust and wonder in              future?                           bringing communities              more conversations and wider       Citizen Farm.
                                                                             together.                         sidewalks for people with
understanding our city. It begins with                                                                         disabilities.
telling stories about our urbanscape.
                                           Do
Wander More presents 16 stories from
the e-magazine, Going Places Singapore,    51                                54
that capture places in Singapore that      3 ways to live                    How to grow
move us, buildings that teach us,          waste free                        herbs at home
individuals who inspire us to rethink      Writer Michelle Ng                A novice gardener puts her
our physical spaces and ways we can get    challenged herself to live        green thumbs to the test
started as active citizens.                waste free for a week.            by growing her own herb
                                                                             garden. Here are 4 things she
                                                                             learnt from the process.

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WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority
Explore

    What makes Chinatown
     feel like Chinatown?
    How did Kranji Marshes
    attract the birds again?
     How do we revitalise                           Croc meat
       the longest river?                         and calligraphy
     What if we could cycle
                                               Step inside clan associations and wet markets to
                                             uncover what makes Chinatown feel like Chinatown.

      around the island?                                                 WRITER
                                                                     Daniel Seifert

                                                                      PHOTOGRAPHER
                                                                    Philipp Aldrup

    We walked, we cycled.                                                     local identity and traditions continue to
                               Pop quiz: my shoes smell like a pungent

       And we stopped.         mix of stingray, frog, rambutan and fresh
                               pork meat. Where have I been walking?
                                                                              evolve and fascinate us. Some businesses
                                                                              and stakeholders have found ways to
                                                                              retain its rich soft heritage.
                               The wet market at Chinatown Complex,

    To rediscover another      of course!
                                                                              Sink your teeth into traditions
                               We are on a mission to capture the

    side of familiar places    essence of one of Singapore’s most well-
                               known neighbourhoods. It is less about
                               physical buildings, and more about the
                                                                              What makes this place so evocative is that
                                                                              it still smells like the things it sells. You
                                                                              also get a free show whenever you visit, a

      around Singapore.        enclave’s ‘soft heritage’: an intangible mix
                               of traditions, crafts and businesses that
                               continues to make Chinatown intriguing.
                                                                              whirlwind of activities behind and around
                                                                              the counters. There is a butcher scraping
                                                                              a hog trotter free of its bristles, as lovingly
                               Contrary to some of our perceptions of         as a barber giving a high-class wet shave.
                               Chinatown as being highly sanitised, its       And in a corner, a cageful of frogs, placidly

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WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority
“We want to bring tea culture to people           help clans foster a more open mindset
                                                                                                                       here, which is exactly what the founder           that helps them put their message out
                                                                                                                       of Pek Sin Choon wanted. If we didn’t             to the world.
                                                                                                                       want that so badly, we could have given
                                                                                                                       up 20 years ago.” So how is the business          “One suggestion,” Yan Chang says,
                                                                                                                       managing to adapt to modern times?                “would be to open up private events
                                                                                                                       For one thing, it isn’t avoiding the online       to the public.” While some clans still
                                                                                                                       revolution — they now sell teas online,           harbour a more private air, others
                                                                                                                       and have become part of TimeTracks                have embraced opening up, and now
                                                                                                                       SG50, an interactive app that tracks a            even accept members of different
                                                                                                                       user’s GPS and tells stories behind               nationalities, races and religions.
                                                                                                                       local businesses.
                                                                                                                                                                         In fact one of our volunteer guides,
                                                                                                                       Cleverly, none of these changes interfere         signed up to be a member. I think she’s
                                                                                                                       with the vintage look and feel of the             American, but she can proudly say,
                                                                                                                       shop, allowing for a sweet balancing act          ‘this is my clan now’.”
                                                                                                                       between old and new. But at the end of
                                                                                                                       the day, “We have survived thanks to pure
                                                                                                                       perseverance and passion,” says Eng Wah.

                                                                                                                       Finding fresh faces
                                                                                                                                                                                     But for me, I’m fine
                                                                                                                       These small businesses still make up the                      with change. Things are
    Blogger Victor Yue
                                                                                                                       prominent face of Chinatown, but there
                                                                                                                       are other stakeholders that have faded                        always changing. All you
                                                                                                                                                                                     can do is work hard.
    shares his love for
    Chinatown:                                                                                                         into the background: clan associations.
                                                                                                                       When Singapore experienced an
                                                                                                                       immigration boom of mainland Chinese
                                                                                                                       people over a century ago, the clans
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                                                                                                                       were a vital support system, offering
    I have lived in or       staring out from a sign that reads “4 for     youngsters prefer to get out of the         protection and contacts in a new city.
    around this area all     $10”. They’re next to a stall that sells      business and find other work.” Chinatown    Nowadays, the government plays an                 A 21st century clan
    my life. As I grow
    older, I get more        “live snake head” and “freshwater eels”.      is changing, she admits.                    increasingly active role, says executive
    attached.                Behind the counter is Yvonne, the third                                                   architect Lee Yan Chang, from the URA’s           One clan that embodies just such
                             generation in her family to run this stall.   “But for me, I’m fine with change. Things   conservation management department.               a balance of tradition and openness,
                                                                           are always changing. All you can do is      He and other planners have been focusing          says Yan Chang, is the Gan Clan.
     2                       “Traditional dishes like this are still       work hard.”                                 more on outreach and place management             Cleverly, they started a programme
                             popular,” she says, proudly gesturing                                                     activities in conservation areas. It’s not        that encourages young schoolchildren
    I love the typical
    chatting of              to her mini-zoo of wares. “Do you             Things certainly are changing: a frog’s     just the built heritage that architects and       to serve as tour guides for a new
    Cantonese (like          sell crocodile meat too?” jokes the           leap from her stall is a beautifully        planners care for, it’s the soft heritage too.    heritage centre that tells the story
    old times) mixed         photographer. “Of course! It’s in the         antiquated shophouse next to a sign that                                                      of the Gan clan. It is a great way to
    with other Chinese
    languages. Of            fridge,” she laughs, kicking the humming      says “Free Wi-Fi. Log on to wireless@       As part of efforts to revitalise the profile of   nurture the next generation to share
    course, there’s          unit with wet sandals.                        chinatown.” – Chinatown’s delicate dance    Chinatown’s many still-existing clans, Yan        clan stories from a young age.
    English and the                                                        with tradition and modernity.               Chang led walking tours around several
    other foreign
    languages too.           Turns out she’s not joking. “Do you want                                                  associations. These tours are now led by          Such measures are largely thanks to
                             the address where I get the meat?” She        Yuen Eng Wah, assistant general manager     URA volunteers. Stepping inside these             Gan Ee Bee, vice honorary secretary of
                             whips out her mobile and promptly             at Pek Sin Choon, embodies the hard         fascinating associations, he said visitors        the association. Previously, the centre
     3
                             recites the location of a crocodile farm      work Yvonne espouses. Working at one of     “realised there are so many clans over            consisted of a quiet, austere room
                             based in Singapore. Who knew?                 Singapore’s oldest tea merchants takes      100 years old here, still actively serving        stuffed with thick curtains and solemn
    There is still the old   (It’s at 321 Neo Tiew Crescent, in case       motivation. For Eng Wah, that stems from    the community in terms of organising              ancestral portraits. Now, a S$500,000
    aroma of the typical
    hawker food,
                             you’re peckish).                              providing a service to everyday people.     events.” But, often clinging to traditional       redesign has seen the centre
    although more                                                          “It’s not about what Chinatown needs,       ways, these clan associations struggle to         brimming with audio-visual materials
    northern Chinese         Are other stalls here multi-generation        it’s about what the store can provide for   attract new members in a modern world.            and historic artefacts (like a roof tile
    food aromas are
    taking over.             too? Some, she says, but not all. “Many       customers,” he says.                        Hence one of Yan Chang’s remits was to            from Confucius’s grandfather’s house).

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WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority
“At the same time I feel we should work
                                                                       with social enterprises that support arts
                                                                       and crafts, maybe done by handicapped
                                                                       groups. I think that’s something that
                                                                       really engages the community and
                                                                       draws attention.”

                                                                       Havens of traditional skills

                                                                       Most importantly, perhaps, Ee Bee feels
                                                                       that clan associations embody age-old
                                                                       traditions that they can pass on to
                                                                       the younger generation. Like dialect
                                                                       language skills, music or calligraphy.
                                                                       “Chinatown has so many associations.
                                                                       If each clan could adopt a school by
                                                                       introducing some unique cultural
                                                                       programmes that would be great. That
                                                                       way a premise isn’t left vacant, and it
                                                                       helps clans survive,” he says.

                                                                       It’s worth pondering the link between
                                                                       Chinatown and the deep reservoir of

                                                                                                                                               Birds’ haven
                                                                       Chinese traditions and skills held by its
                                                                       residents. The clans are a bastion of this
                                                                       tradition, but if they don’t pass on their
                                                                       skills, the loss of Singapore’s soft heritage                    The birds are flocking back to Kranji Marshes,
                                                                       could be felt throughout the island. “For                         Singapore’s largest freshwater marshland.
                                                                       example the lion dancers: their art is                                           We find out why.
                                                                       passed through many generations,” says
                                                                       Yan Chang. “The father is a member of a
                                                                       troupe in a clan and brings his children to                                              WRITER
                                                                       events, which gets them exposed early in                                             Timothy Msir
                                                                       life. They’ll take part and pass on the art                                          PHOTOGRAPHER
    Image above: URA      Coupled with events that appeal to a         to the next generation.”                                                               Mark Teo
    executive architect
    Yan Chang leading
                          younger generation like networking and
    a tour at Ying Fo     wine tasting nights, the clan is hoping to   With organisations like the Gan Clan
    Fui Kun.              inject fresh blood into the group. “The      adapting to the modern era, whilst
                          current demographics of membership are       embracing their roots, Chinatown’s arts
                          quite worrying,” says Ee Bee.                and festivals should be able to survive
                                                                                                                       Stepping into Kranji Marshes in the early    overhead. It is a sanctuary for migratory
                                                                       and thrive. As we are about to leave the
                                                                                                                       morning is like entering another world –     and shore birds, and a respite from the
                          The clan has even rented out part of its     building, the photographer asks if we
                                                                                                                       new sounds, smells and sights. I imagine     city for the rest of us.
                          premises to a high-end restaurant, a         should close the rolling partitions which
                                                                                                                       this must be what Singapore’s landscape
                          clever way to reroute young professionals    Ee Bee rolled back to reveal the view of
                                                                                                                       looked like before it was transformed into   Marshes are waterlogged low-lying land
                          and families who come for a meal, and        Bukit Pasoh. “No, you can leave them like
                                                                                                                       a dense metropolis.                          areas that flood during wet seasons or
                          are then intrigued by the heritage tour      that,” she smiles. “Sometimes it’s good to
                                                                                                                                                                    during high-tide. They support a wide
                          right next door. There are even plans        open up.”
                                                                                                                       Lying on the northwestern shore of Kranji    range of aquatic plants, including reeds
                          to potentially work with designers who
                                                                                                                       Reservoir, there’s plenty to look out        and grasses that function as natural
                          imbibe the rich, 2,500-year-old history      URA has been collaborating with the
                                                                                                                       for in Kranji Marshes in the 20-minute       habitats and shelter for a variety of fishes,
                          of the Gan clan, then design attractive      community to organise free walking
                                                                                                                       walk through Neo Tiew Woods, from            amphibians, invertebrates and birds.
                          products that weave in that heritage. “I     tours and cultural activities at
                                                                                                                       the visitor’s centre at Kranji Gate to the   While the public might be familiar with
                          think it could be something meaningful       Chinatown. To find out more, visit
                                                                                                                       Marsh Station and core conservation          wetlands because of the Sungei Buloh
                          that people want to keep,” Ee Bee beams.     http://uraconservation.eventbrite.com.
                                                                                                                       area, including insects, monitor lizards     Nature Reserve, a brackish (saltwater)
                                                                                                                       and birds perched atop trees or flying       mangrove swamp, the freshwater Kranji

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WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority
4 things to do at
                                                                                                                                                                                                               Kranji Marshes:

                                                                                                                                                                                                                1

                                                                                                                                                                                                               Enjoy stunning
                                                                                                                                                                                                               sky-high views from
                                                                                                                                                                                                               Kranji Marshes’
                                                                                                                                                                                                               raptor tower. Look
                                                                                                                                                                                                               out for landmarks
                                                                                                                                                                                                               such as the Moorhen
                                                                                                                                                                                                               pond and the BBC
                                                                                                                                                                                                               shortwave relay
                                                                                                                                                                                                               station.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                2

                                                                                                                                                                                                               Have a one-of-
                                                                                                                                                                                                               a-kind outdoor
                                                                                                                                                                                                               learning
                                                                                                                                                                                                               experience at
                                                                                                                                                                                                               the Kingfisher
                                                                                                                                                                                                               Burrow. And climb
                                                                                                                                                                                                               to its arch for an
                                                                                                                                                                                                               instagram-worthy
                                                                                                                                                                                                               shot.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                3

                                                                                                                                                                  Construction began in 2014, and it took      Bird-watch from
                                                                                                                                                                                                               blinds and hides.
    Image above:          Marshes is dominated not by trees but by     to return, they need the area to have a                                                    almost 2 years to clear and develop          Spot shy birds
    Second Minister
    for National
                          grasses, sedges and ferns, resulting in an   good balance of exposed water area and                                                     the area.                                    like the Common
                          open landscape.                              vegetation,” Tuan Wah explained.                                                                                                        Moorhen or the
    Development,
                                                                                                                                                                                                               marshes’ signature
    Desmond Lee,                                                                                                                                                  Former URA executive architect Lim Chu       bird, the Purple
    spotted many birds
    at the opening of
                          “Freshwater habitats are very rare in        Opened to the public in 2016, Kranji                                                       Hwai who worked on the project said the      Swamphen.
    the Kranji Marshes.   Singapore, and at 57 hectares this is the    Marshes is substantial and harbours a                                                      agency approached the site differently
                          biggest one accessible to the public, so     very rich array of marshland wildlife, in                                                  from how it plans parks or its other
                                                                                                                                                                                                                4
                          you’ll see a lot of interesting birds not    particular birds. The area is an important                                                 projects, as the primary user at Kranji
                          found anywhere else”, National Parks         roosting and feeding area for migratory                                                    Marshes is nature – birds in particular.     Indulge in your
                          Board (NParks) director of conservation      shorebirds between August and April,                                                       “In this rather urbanised setting, parks     inner child with
                          Wong Tuan Wah said. The marsh was            and is home to more than 170 species                                                       are usually man-made where you can           sticks and stones.
                                                                                                                                                                                                               Kids and adults
                          created in the early 1970s with the          of birds, 54 species of butterflies, and 33                                                put in structures and plant lots of things   alike love the many
                          damming of the Kranji River that flooded     species of dragonflies. One can also find                                                  to recreate nature. But here is a natural    twig structures
                          the low-lying catchment area. It functions   threatened species of birds like the Purple                                                landscape formed over time, left intact      lying around the
                                                                                                                                                                                                               marshes. Think
                          as a natural filtration system, cleaning     Swamphen, Red-wattled Lapwing and                                                          and nature has claimed it back, so the       of all the fun
                          and filtering sediment-heavy water from      Purple Heron here.                            consultants and engineers to restore         primary idea is to keep and sensitively      possibilities.
                          several canals that flow into the marsh                                                    and enhance the existing habitats,           restore this old and pristine landscape
                          before draining into the Kranji Reservoir.   A concerted effort                            provide public amenities and facilitate      for the natural inhabitants. And only
                          Left untouched for many years, the                                                         visitors to learn more about the area’s      after achieving that, to provide public
                          area became a habitat for many types         Nature Society (Singapore) has managed        biodiversity. “This is a very good example   amenities and access so that the public
                          of wildlife, but the vegetation has since    2 ponds in the area since 2008, when          of the ‘three-Ps’ model where nature         can enjoy this area,” he said.
                          become overgrown, cutting off the            it adopted the marsh under Public             conservation involves the engagement of
                          water surface and preventing birds from      Utilities Board (PUB)’s Active, Beautiful,    the three sectors of the community – the     The project team also engaged nature
                          foraging and hunting for food sources.       Clean Waters Programme, but the               public, private, and people, resulting in    conservationists and ornithologists. “This
                                                                       restoration of the marshes saw the            the successful long-term conservation        is important because there are some very
                          “If not maintained, the water surface        involvement of public agencies like URA,      of a substantial nature area,” Nature        rare species here, and freshwater marshes
                          areas will not be left open for long, as     NParks, PUB, and groups like Nature           Society (Singapore) vice-chairman of the     have birds that are disappearing from
                          water weeds grow very quickly. For birds     Society (Singapore), as well as experts,      conservation committee Ho Hua Chew said.     Singapore altogether. Once the baseline

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WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority
of the flora and fauna of the area was set,   the scarcity of land, the government
               we determined where the important areas       has set aside about 10 percent of the
               are, and fine-tuned the development           country’s land area for nature, including
               plan: where to put the footpaths, bridges     nature reserves and parks. “In terms of
               and hides, as we know where the sensitive     biodiversity, it is important to have a
               areas are to avoid,” wildlife consultant      variety and network of different habitats
               Subaraj Rajathurai, who also monitored        complementing and supporting each
               the bird and wildlife population of the       other to form a rich and complex whole,
               habitat monthly during its refurbishment,     otherwise, fragmented parks and greens
               said. “We made sure not to cut down           are generally weaker and have less
               certain trees, like the albizias, which are   biodiversity on their own,” Chu Hwai said
               very good for birds,” he added.               about the importance of wetlands in
                                                             Singapore’s urban fabric.
               To minimise disturbance to wildlife and
               the marsh, an amphibious excavator was        To minimise visitor and human impact on
               used to clear overgrown vegetation in         the reserve, parts of the core conservation
               the ponds and to form new islets. They        area will gradually be opened for public
               created different habitats in the area,       access, depending on how the birds react.
               such as islands for birds and other places    “We’re not just talking about a dense city
               for them to perch, what Sungei Buloh          itself, but a dense city with lots of greens,
               Wetlands Reserve deputy director How          and different types of greens. Success for
               Choon Beng calls “mixed-use housing”.         this particular project is how much nature

                                                                                                                                How do you
                                                             we retain, and how many birds we’ll be
               The amenities and facilities, mostly          able to keep at the end of the day,” URA
               pre-fabricated offsite, include the 11-m      director (projects) Teo Chong Yean said.
               tall lookout tower, floating boardwalks
               and 8 blinds and hides for bird watching      Subaraj said he noticed a rapid increase                        revitalise a river?
               and observing wildlife at close quarters.     in bird life and other biodiversity as
               The eco-friendly and sustainable              soon as the habitat was cleared. “So far,                           Re-experiencing Singapore’s longest river,
                                                                                                                                  we catch a glimpse of its past and future.
               infrastructure and amenities – skylights,     based on the variety I’ve found – I’ve
               green roofs, and benches made from            just did a survey a few weeks ago and
               recycled tree trunks – blend seamlessly       found 68 species of birds in one morning
               into the natural surroundings.                – indicates that it’s been successful,”
                                                                                                                                                      WRITER
                                                             he said. “The fact that URA is willing to                                          Jennifer Eveland
               Giving wildlife a boost                       come to a nature area to do planning and
                                                                                                                                                  PHOTOGRAPHER
                                                             design here, and got us [Nature Society]
                                                                                                                                                  Wilson Pang
               Singapore has proven that a high-density      to give advice and consultation shows the
               living environment does not have to           government’s commitment to preserving
               come at the expense of nature – despite       this place as a nature area for the public
                                                             to enjoy, which is a good thing. The
                                                             enhancement they’ve done will definitely
                                                                                                             From Lower Pierce Reservoir in the           the steady flow of time and the ever-
                                                             bring a larger variety of wildlife, birdlife
                                                                                                             centre of the island, the Kallang River      changing nature of life itself, the Kallang
                                                             especially, to the area,” Hua Chew said at
     Success for this                                        the opening of
                                                                                                             begins its journey, winding its way past
                                                                                                             high-rise heartland neighbourhoods
                                                                                                                                                          River is it.

     particular project is how                               the reserve.
                                                                                                             and low-rise industrial estates. It flows    We re-experience the river’s rich history
     much nature we retain,                                  According to him, the best times to
                                                                                                             dutifully through lush parks and concrete
                                                                                                             canals alike, under massive bridges and
                                                                                                                                                          and biodiversity and learn how it can
                                                                                                                                                          continue to stand the test of time.
     and how many birds                                      visit are at the crack of dawn and in the
                                                             evenings, as there are more chances to
                                                                                                             expressways with ubiquitous acronyms
                                                                                                                                                          Otters and purple heron
                                                                                                             like CTE (Central Expressway) and PIE
     we’ll be able to keep at                                spot the rare birds then.
                                                                                                             (Pan Island Expressway) and a heritage
     the end of the day.                                     Visit   Kranji Marshes 11 Neo Tiew Lane 2
                                                                                                             bridge named for merdeka, the call for
                                                                                                             the nation’s independence. Singapore’s
                                                                                                                                                          An oasis of lush growth amid the
                                                                                                                                                          cityscape, Bishan-Ang Mo Kio Park is
                                                                                                             longest river is 10 km long, but if ever a   more than just an idyllic site for a river
                                                                                                             river symbolised the power of nature,        to run. It’s a testament to the will and

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WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority
3 things to know        the ability of people to reclaim their       our natural heritage by literally digging
     about Kallang
     river’s history:
                             natural heritage. Where the river once       deeper under the river itself.
                             passed through a gaping concrete gash        In the NSS 2007 feedback on Bishan-Ang
                             of a canal, it now feeds 62 hectares of      Mo Kio Park ABC Waters Programme, in
      1                      parkland frequented by wildlife, thanks      which Hua Chew was involved, the society
                             to the Active, Beautiful and Clean Waters    advocated for the removal of concrete
     The Kallang river
     in its early days was
                             Programme (ABC Waters) by the Public         from the entire river bed and not just the
                             Utilities Board (PUB) and National Parks     banks. “The uncovering of the mud-bed
                                                                                                                                                                                                        The greening
     home to different
     communities, one        Board (NParks).                              of the former canal, even to some extent,
                                                                                                                                                                                                        of the river
     of which was the
     orang laut (sea
                                                                          would attract wildlife that haunts the
     gypsies), who lived     “The greening of the river along this        softer mud-beds at the shallow waters
     in the vicinity
     until 1848.
                             stretch is very effective in terms of        as well as the river-bottom,” he says.                                                                                        along this
                                                                                                                                                                                                        stretch is
                             biodiversity and aesthetics,” says Dr Ho     “This will make the river more alive
                             Hua Chew, vice-chair of the Conservation     and interesting as well as ecologically
      2
                             Committee at the Nature Society
                             (Singapore) (NSS). Speaking from his own
                                                                          beneficial.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                        very effective
     “Kallang” could
     be a variant of the
                             experience, he’s noticed more marshland      Living by the river’s edge                                                                                                    in terms of
     Malay word, kelang,
     meaning “mill” or
                             birdlife feeding along the river and the
                             marshy banks.                                More than 800,000 residents live within                                                                                       biodiversity
     “factory”. Industrial
     activities were
                             “Very significant is the appearance of a
                                                                          2 km from the river. Gently down the
                                                                          stream in Geylang Bahru, residents
                                                                                                                                                                                                        and aesthetics.
     prevalent near the
     mouths of various       family of smooth otters, and the nesting     can be seen fishing every day and, on
     rivers in the 1820s.    of a purple heron on an angsana tree by      rare occasions, kayaking. When the Ng
                             the riverside,” says Hua Chew. “Frequent     family moved here in 2007 they had no          and that’s enough.”                          conservation in 2008. The airport was
                             and regular otter sightings indicate that    idea how much they would enjoy the                                                          Singapore’s first purpose-built civil airport
      3
                             they have made their home here and not       river. They chose their block, which is        Rich with landmarks                          commissioned by the British colonial
     Kallang River           just visiting or exploring. The nesting of   nestled in a fork where a canal branches                                                    government in the 1930s. When it first
     became highly           the purple heron is a first for Bishan-Ang   off towards Whampoa, in part for the
     polluted until the                                                                                                  To see Kallang Basin now, it’s hard to       opened, it was touted as one of
     clean-up in the         Mo Kio Park and is very important, as        unobstructed view that follows the path        imagine the swamplands where early           the most modern airport of its time
     1970s and 1980s.        nesting sites of this species are rare in    of the river where it runs to the sea. On      Javanese settlers, the orang kallang,        with revolutionary facilities. Its runway
     Untreated waste         Singapore. It’s a good sign of the health    a clear day you can spy tiny cargo ships
     and sewage from                                                                                                     lived on boats over 200 years ago. They      is now Old Airport Road; its control
     hawkers and             and viability of the wetland at this         on the horizon. This wouldn’t be possible      were resettled long before decades of        tower vacant.
     market vegetable        stretch.”                                    if not for the river, says Bernard Ng. He      land reclamation began in the 1930s,
     vendors used to                                                      spends time with his family by the river
     be dumped into                                                                                                      permanently changing the river’s course.     Remembering the old Kallang Gasworks,
     the river.              Hua Chew believes we can dig further into    jogging, scooting and fishing.                 The 1960s saw kampong houses making          Lim Leong Seng, the sculptor created
                                                                                                                         way for Housing & Development Board          The Spirit of Kallang, using pipes
                                                                          “In Singapore, there is so much water          flats and industrial blocks. By the late     and other fittings from the gasworks.
                                                                          around us, but there is comparatively very     1970s, the water had turned to filth,        Kallang Gasworks was built in 1862 by
                                                                          little interaction with the water,” he says.   prompting a clean-up that would spark        the Singapore Gas Company to supply
                                                                          There’s a lot of safety concerns about         Singapore’s water story.                     piped gas for street lighting. Many locals
                                                                          getting into the water but that issue can                                                   would avoid the Kallang area due to the
                                                                          be explored progressively. “There’s no         Over time, the area grew rich with           strong stench of gas and fears of the plant
                                                                          need for planned water activities, either,”    landmarks. Still today, the circa-1888       exploding, giving it the name “fire city”,
                                                                          he adds. “Just go in and dip your feet in      Sri Manmatha Karuneshvarar Temple            or huay sia in Hokkien. After over 130
                                                                                                                         welcomes Hindu devotees, and the             years of service, supplying the nation’s
                                                                                                                         Merdeka Bridge, built in 1956, connects      first piped gas to fuel streetlights and
                                                                                                                         the riverbanks via Nicoll Highway. The       employing generations, it was phased
                                                                                                                         former Kallang Airport that hasn’t seen      out in 1998. “Preserving memories of
                                                                                                                         a plane since 1955 is now used for           these public places is important since
                                                                                                                         sports, recreation, offices or other forms   it highlights the social obligation of
                                                                                                                         of community uses in the interim. The        the citizenry and gives them a sense
                                                                                                                         terminal building has been gazetted for      of belonging despite a relative short

12                                                                                                                                                                                                                        13
WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority
historical heritage,” says Leong Seng.               The river’s future

     The kallang wave                                     The river offers fresh possibilities for more to enjoy its
                                                          meandering streams, strolling, cycling and mingling
     As the river nears the sea, its banks widen          through neighbourhoods and communities and living and
     to form the Kallang Basin, a large body of           working close to the water’s edge. And for more to come
     water made fresh after the construction              out to play, with a wider range of sporting activities and
     of the Marina Barrage in 2008. It’s hard             community spaces, celebrating its spirit and beauty.
     to miss the Singapore Sports Hub, the
     massive complex built to house virtually             URA planners reimagined the river’s future with these top
     every sport facility Singaporeans can                10 ideas revealed in 2017.

                                                                                                                                     What if
     imagine. Kallang has been synonymous
     with sports since the 1973 opening of the            Green Corridor
     original National Stadium. The new mega
     sporting complex which replaced it in          1. Bishan-Ang Mo Kio Park to Gardens by the Bay – greenery along
     2014 will build on that legacy.                   the river can be enhanced, tapping on the rich biodiversity within
                                                       these two parks.

                                                                                                                                    you could
     “It’s unlike other stadiums which are built    2. Underpass below the Central Expressway (CTE) – this space
     for the sole purpose of hosting major             could be turned into a vibrant community space with better
     games,” says Chin Sau Ho, Singapore               headroom, lighting and seating.
     Sports Club senior director of corporate
     communications and stakeholder                       Bridging Neighbourhoods
     management. “We have a long-term

                                                                                                                                    cycle this
     vision of serving as a catalyst for the        3. Across Kallang Bahru and Upper Boon Keng Roads – possible
     emergence of sport in Singapore.”                 underpasses could be developed across these roads for seamless
                                                       access for pedestrians and cyclists.
     Around the shores of the basin, joggers
     run through shady parks and kayakers           4. Below Sims Avenue – a possible underpass link can be developed
     launch their boats from palm-lined                for greater connectivity along the riverfront to the Sports Hub.
     beaches, and not a day passes without

                                                                                                                                     island?
                                                    5. Across the Pan Island Expressway (PIE) – What if you can cycle or
     spotting a dragon boat plying the calm
                                                       jog across the PIE? A possible cyclist-friendly crossing over the PIE
     waters. “Kallang is the main venue for            can make this a reality.
     our events,” says Jason Chen, founder of
     Dragon Boat Innovate, an events company
     that organises corporate dragon boating              New Homes & Communities
     activities. For over 20 years Jason has        6. Kallang Distripark – close to the upcoming Geylang Bahru MRT,
     been a competitive paddler, coach and             this private industrial estate can be transformed into a quality
     dragon boat advocate. “I live for dragon          residential precinct in future, with park and recreational spaces.
     boating,” he says. He launches his events
                                                    7. Kallang Industrial Estate – this 73 ha estate can be turned into
     from a few of the parks surrounding                                                                                            Photographer Joseph Nair tries out 3 cycling routes unveiling
                                                       a vibrant mixed-use precinct with high-rise facilities to meet
     Kallang Basin, which he says are very             modern industrial needs, closely integrated with future residential            stunning views that entice us to step on that bike again.
     impressive to his clients, meetings,              developments along the waterfront and parks.
     incentives, conferences and exhibitions
     (MICE) travellers. “They also get to see the   8. Kampong Bugis – a stone’s throw away from the Lavendar and
                                                                                                                                                          WRITER / PHOTOGRAPHER
                                                       Kallang MRT stations, the area is planned to be an attractive                                          Joseph Nair
     Central Business District from the middle         precinct that supports active mobility and environmental
     of the Kallang Basin, and the natural side        sustainability.
     of Singapore they don’t get to see from
     the inside of a hotel room,” he says.
                                                          Enlivening the River
                                                    9.
     Jason remembers when paddlers had the                Kallang Riverside – this area is envisioned to be a vibrant mixed
     freedom to travel upriver all the way to             use district in the longer term. In the interim, the conserved
     Bishan, exploring the network of canals              Kallang airport terminal can be re-used for community sports and
     that go through distinct neighbourhoods              recreational activities.
                                                    10.
     from the water’s vantage point. It is an             Waterfront along Jalan Benaan Kapal – a possible 8 ha play zone
     unforgettable experience for him.                    with recreational and sporting facilities for all ages is being studied

14
WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority
Route 1
                            I don’t own a car, so getting from point A
                            to B always meant a bus, taxi or MRT ride.
                            Cycling has never been an option for me.
                            Cycling, or so I thought, was only for the
                            Dutch and the Lycra-clad.

                            But with LOOP, an app designed by
                            students from the Singapore Management
                            University, a journey planner and route
                            tracker designed for recreational and
                            newbie cyclists like me, I borrowed a
                            foldable bike, dug up a helmet and hit the
                            streets. Thankfully, one cannot forget how
                            to ride a bike.                                  1                                              2                                                            3

                            The commute test (route 1)

                            The first step: test how practical LOOP
                            is for a commute. Queenstown and
                            Aljunied seemed a reasonable distance,
                            so off I went. I fired up the app, entered
                            the coordinates, and picked between
                            the ‘shortest’ or ‘safest’ route. The latter
                            felt more suitable for me, the almost-
                            never cyclist, but I went a step further
                            and divided the route into two: from
                            Queenstown to Raffles Place, and then to         4                                         5
                            Sims Drive, where I had arranged to meet
                            a friend. Once everything was keyed in,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         4
                            off I went.                                 The map on LOOP marked the shop out                the moon”) is popular for those seeking
     6 things you                                                       at a corner of a HDB block nearby. So I            love. A few photographs later, I set for                                                     From the eastern
     can see/do on
     cycling route 1:       Unfortunately, there wasn’t a ‘Scenic       wheeled the bike over and accessorised,            Sims Drive to Marina Barrage before                                                          bank of Kallang
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Basin, take a photo
     Queenstown,            Meander’ mode on LOOP – but that’s          happy that the app creators added                  crossing over to the eastern side of the                                                     of Marina Bay
     Raffles Place,         where my photographer’s instincts kicked that very useful little touch. Soon, the              Kallang Basin.                                                                               Sands, Art Science
     Sims Drive:
                            in. So for my first scenic stop, I climbed  skyscrapers of the Central Business District                                                                                                    Museum, the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Singapore Flyer,
                            up to the roof garden on the 47th floor     (CBD) loomed over me. I decided to pay a           Here, I found an amazing, and little-known,                                                  with office towers
      1                     of SkyVille @ Dawson. From this vantage     visit to Yueh Hai Ching Temple or “temple          vantage point: from the eastern bank of                                                      in the backdrop –
                            point, Indonesia’s Riau Islands peeked out of the calm sea”.                                   the Kallang Basin, you can capture the             6                                         all in one frame.
     Catch glimpses         from behind the blocks of Telok Blangah,                                                       Marina Bay Sands, Art Science Museum
     of Indonesia’s
     Riau Islands from      and to the north, the city of Johor Bahru   Tucked in a corner off Raffles Place, this         and the Singapore Flyer, with the CBD
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         5
     the 47th floor of      was visible.                                small temple has been standing here                towers lined up behind them – all in one
     SkyVille @ Dawson.
                                                                        since the 1820s. It’s now dwarfed by office        frame. Even the Geylang River and its wide in time.                                          Enjoy the beautiful
                            After scouting out the rooftop – there’s    towers, but back then it was the first port-       park connector were unexpectedly pretty.                                                     Geylang river
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and its wide park
      2
                            a jogging path encircling it – I took       of-call for migrants from the Chaoshan             Once home to boatyards and traders, the        I stopped at the junction of Lorong           connector.
                            the lift down, hopped on the bike and       region of Guangdong, China, after their            river is now a lined canal.                    Bachok and Geylang Lorong 19 to see this
     Check out the          continued my journey. Or at least tried to. long sea voyage.                                                                                  shophouse, with its iconic painted plaster
     jogging path also on
     the 47th floor.        The seat of my bike was too hard, and I                                                        I also got to meet, by chance, the people      reliefs. A Sepoy sergeant in pre-World War     6
                            knew I needed to do something about it.     Figures from Chinese mythology stand on            who keep the waters clean. The Waterway II puttees and a Sikh guard adorn the front
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Stop by the
                            Fortunately, I met a bicycle courier while  the temple’s roof – these were only added          Watch Society organises regular clean-ups, of this well-maintained 1929 shophouse. A         junction of
      3                     waiting for a traffic light who pointed me  after the temple underwent renovations             like this one with students from Damai         strange menagerie of animals plays across     Lorong Bachok
                            to a bike shop nearby where I could find a in 2014. Among the deities the temple               Secondary School. Leaving the slick park       its beautiful façade. That was my last stop   and Geylang
     Visit the Yueh Hai                                                                                                                                                                                                 Lorong 19 to
     Ching temple at the    padded seat cover.                          honours, Yue Lao (literally “old man under         connector and entering Geylang, with           before dinner and a train ride home – so      admire a 1929
     corner off Raffles                                                                                                    its five-foot-ways, small temples and          far, so good. Tomorrow, I would test out      shophouse with
     Place, around since                                                                                                   labyrinth of back alleys, was like a trip back the cycling routes that LOOP users have       its iconic painted
     the 1820s.                                                                                                                                                                                                         plaster reliefs.
                                                                                                                                                                          contributed to the database.

16                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            17
Route 2
     4 things you can
     see/do on cycling                                                                                                                                                                                              The air was
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    much cooler
     route 2: Punggol
     Park, Sungei
     Serangoon,
     Lorong Halus:                                                                                                                                                                                                  here, thanks to
                                                                                                                                                                                3                                   the casuarina
      1
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    woodlands, and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    is filled with
     Enjoy the popular
     Punggol Park, with
     Pokémon hunters,
     #fitspo people
     and instagram
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    birdsong in the
     boyfriends.
                            1
                                                                                                                         2                                                      4                                   evening. The
                          Route 3                                                                                                                                                                                   sandy main trail
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    crunched under
      2

     Check out the
     iconic Lorong
     Halus bridge and                                                                                                                                                                                               my tyres.
     take a shot at the
     popular photo spot
     amongst the reed
     wetlands.

      3

     Pedal along Sungei
     Serangoon to reach     1                                                            2                                   3
     Coney island with
     cooler air, filled
     with birdsong and
     sandy trails.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                3 things you can
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                see/do on cycling
      4                   The crowdsourced route test (route 2)            Over the Lorong Halus bridge, the                     The navigation test (route 3)                      Sidled alongside the reservoir, the golf    route 3: Yishun,
                                                                           temperamental sky almost forced me                                                                       course of Seletar Country Club makes        Seletar Country
     Encounter monkeys                                                                                                                                                                                                          Club, Punggol
                          In addition to recommending routes based         to call off my trip. Further down from                To test the navigation capabilities of LOOP,       for some surreal night photography.
     along the way                                                                                                                                                                                                              Barat island:
     via the western      on coordinates you key in, LOOP has a            the bridge, the reed wetlands of Lorong               I decided I’d go on a night ride around            LOOP has no robotic voice squawking
     causeway.            library of cycling routes that have been         Halus are a popular photo spot when                   somewhere unfamiliar: Yishun. I set the            out directions, which I appreciated for
                          crowdsourced from other cyclists. Users          dry. They serve as natural filters of water           app for Khatib MRT and set off. Crossing           not disturbing the quiet of the night. It    1
                          can rate and comment on these routes, and        that flows out the now-disused Lorong                 Pulau Punggol Timur, I passed migrant              did give me a clear path to follow, but
                          the app ranks them by popularity. I picked       Halus landfill into the Sungei Serangoon.             workers as they made video and phone               didn’t call me back to the route when       Discover the lesser
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                known Punggol
                          the “North Eastern Riverine Loop”, a 16-km                                                             calls or brought groceries back to their           I did wander off, which was often the       Barat island.
                          route across park connectors in Sengkang         I pedalled down from the wetlands                     dormitories. Directions on the app brought         case on these 3 routes.
                          and Punggol.                                     to emerge on Coney Island. The air                    me to a long, lonely path along Seletar
                                                                           was much cooler here, thanks to the                   North Link, over to Punggol Barat Island           As a photographer in search of new           2
                          Starting at Punggol Park, I weaved around        casuarina woodlands, and is filled with               and near Seletar Airport. I had no clue            places and angles to shoot, the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Relax at Yishun
                          Pokémon hunters, #fitspo people and              birdsong in the evening. The sandy                    islands like that existed until I saw them         recommended routes feature let me           Dam, where many
                          Instagram boyfriends. The route traced a         main trail crunched under my tyres.                   marked out on the LOOP map.                        plan (at least a little) in advance. And    families and
                          portion of the length of Sungei Serangoon, a     After cycling about 2.4 km around                                                                        the fact that the app displayed nearby      couples sit and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                mingle.
                          river dammed up to form a reservoir. Pandan      the island, I made my way off it via                  I took a break to enjoy the strong breeze          services – like the bike store on my
                          plants along the park connector made for a       the western causeway while a troop                    at Yishun Dam, where many families and             first trip – meant that maybe, cycling
                          pleasant ride. However, the popularity of the    of moneys watched. And then it was                    couples had driven to sit in the quiet and         might not only be for the Dutch and          3
                          route was also its undoing – I found myself      back to the Sunday throng on the park                 take in the view. The navigation LOOP              Lycra-clad.
                          stuck in pedestrian and bicycle traffic. I       connector. My final stop on the route:                provided was surprisingly accurate so far,                                                     Indulge in some
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                surreal night
                          decided to test the journey-tracking function    Punggol Point, to catch the last rays of              taking me around the area without much             Download LOOP on Google Play and            photography at
                          of the app, so I turned off the suggested path   sunlight dancing across the surface of                fuss. From the Dam, I followed the tree-           iTunes.                                     Seletar Country
                          into the quieter Lorong Halus.                   the water.                                            lined Yishun Avenue 1 to Lower Seletar                                                         Club’s golf course.

                                                                                                                                 Reservoir Park.

18                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    19
Drawing the city:
                    See                   batman and dragons
                                          4 out of 33 artists reveal personal glimpses of Singapore’s cityscape with
                                          their works exhibited along the sidewalks of the URA Centre celebrating
                                          Singapore’s 50th birthday in 2015.

        “I wanted to just draw places,
                                          WRITER
                                          Serene Tng

      people and memories that I have
      of Singapore. It makes me realise                                                    How did you get started?

     how much I miss home,” says artist
                                                                                           It was my mum’s drawing of a Power
                                                                                           Ranger for my birthday and finding a
                                                                                           stack of old (maybe hidden?) comic

      Andre Wee who reconstructed a
                                                                                           book superhero sketches by my dad that
                                                                                           inspired me to pick up the pencil to draw.
                                                                                           My time in the army has also helped. They

     version of Singapore from memory
                                                                                           used to say in Hendon Camp, “the only
                                                                                           easy day was yesterday!”

            in a whimsical piece.         Andre Wee
                                          ARTIST, ILLUSTRATOR, VIRTUAL REALITY WORLD BUILDER

                                          Tell us more about this piece. You have

      Real and imagined, from Batman      included Batman! Why?

                                          I wanted to just draw places, people

      to Tin Tin and carpark wardens,     and memories that I have of Singapore.
                                          Without a fixed plan of the drawing
                                          in mind, there was room for nuance

         6 artists, 1 filmmaker and 5     and play. I reconstructed a version of
                                          Singapore out of memory, as I had been
                                                                                           Elliot
                                          away for some years, depicting both the

     photographers are doing more than    real and factual with the imagined and
                                          playful. Working on this image has been
                                                                                           STUDENT, PATHLIGHT SCHOOL

                                          therapeutic, making me realise how               Tell us more about this piece and what

       just capturing poignant aspects    much I miss home! Batman is a reference
                                          I associate with Singapore. Whenever I
                                                                                           inspires you.

                                          walk pass Parkview Square, it reminds            This is a Merlion. I used the Singapore flag

          of our evolving cityscape.      me of Gotham City, home to the comic
                                          character Batman. I always imagine
                                                                                           colours of white and red, as well as blue to
                                                                                           represent the sea, befitting of Singapore’s
                                          Batman perched at the top. Not many              origins as a trading port. I am inspired by
                                          people know its actual name but smile            anime and cartoons. Drawing helps me to
                                          instantly with clarity when the ‘Batman          relax but sometimes I just draw because I
                                          building’ is mentioned.                          feel like it in the moment.

20                                                                                                                                        21
If Tin Tin visits Singapore
                                                                                                           Inspired by Tin Tin and Doraemon, illustrator Lee Xin Li
                                                                                                           draws us into an alternate universe of this island.

                                                                                                           WRITER
                                                                                                           Serene Tng

                                                        Alice Lim
                                                        REGULATORY SPECIALIST (LET’S DRAW! SINGAPORE)

                                                        You drew a familiar scene from a HDB
                                                        flat. What’s the story there?

                                                        I wanted to share this gorgeous view from
                                                        a nearby Housing & Development Board
     Don Low                                            (HDB) flat in Marine Parade where I live.
     ILLUSTRATOR AND DESIGNER (LET’S DRAW! SINGAPORE)   This is the view you enjoy while waiting
                                                        for the lift. I slightly distorted it to include
     Why did you draw this particular                   things that residents keep outside their
     location?                                          flats like potted plants, clothes hangers
                                                        and bicycles. It is a way of revealing a
     It’s where I grew up. I walked this street         peek into people’s lives.
     to school every day when I was a student.
     Back then, the shophouses were mostly              What inspires you to draw?
     residential and they looked pretty old. My
     mum still lives nearby at Block 6 Everton          I just need a pen and some paper
     Park, which sits on a mound overlooking            to start drawing. It is a great use of
     this street. It was where I stood to draw          waiting or traveling time. I like to seek
     this place, which explains the higher              out interesting shop fronts, signages
     vantage point on this sketch. The white            and buildings with unusual facades in
     building on the left has remained fairly           historical areas. Details excite me because
     the same till now despite going through            I love to capture everything I see. My
     several refurbishments. I like how the             philosophy is “If I can see it, I will draw it.”
     current owner lined the five-foot-way              I like it when people look at my sketches
     corridor with pots of plants, giving the           and comment how they had left out these
     building a human touch against its white-          details even though they had known the
     washed walls.                                      place all along.

     Tell us more about yourself. What
     inspires you to draw?

     I used to be an engineer but my love for                                                                                                     Illustrator Lee Xin Li’s works draw you in with his imaginative
     art compelled me to become an artist. I                                                                                                      layers of Singapore, blending the real and the dreamlike.
     am currently self-employed as a freelance                                                                                                    Self-taught, he started producing illustrations in 2013. He has
     illustrator and designer, working in both                                                                                                    drawn iconic buildings from the former Kallang Airport, the
     digital and traditional mediums. I also                                                                                                      National Theatre, to Tanjong Pagar Railway Station. Perhaps
     teach part-time as a drawing and painting                                                                                                    his most poignant work is of a jubilant Mr Lee Kuan Yew at the
     instructor. Drawing provides me a means to                                                                                                   Commonwealth Close Estate, based on a photograph taken by
     express myself freely without having to find                                                                                                 photographer Larry Burrows from LIFE magazine.
     words for my thoughts or feelings. I like how
     my drawings can help record a moment in                                                                                                      We catch up with him on his drawings and how we can we keep
     time in our ever-changing world.                                                                                                             our heritage alive.

22                                                                                                                                                                                                                  23
Why do you draw?

     Drawing enables me to go deeper to
     rediscover colours, shapes and flavours;
     from the seemingly common kueh (local
     snack), to going on an imaginative journey
     back into an alternate Singapore where
     Neo Tiew remains a quaint little estate, or
     if Tanjong Pagar Railway Station became a
     high-speed railway station.

     Who is your inspiration?

     Herge’s Adventures of Tin Tin and the
     Fujiko Fujio’s Doraemon series.

     Tell us about your favourite drawing.

     It’s Neo Tiew (image on the top right) –
     because it meant so much to me when
     I was a child. Neo Tiew is a small public
     housing estate in Lim Chu Kang built in
     1979. The estate is now being used for
     military training. But back in those days,
     my mum and relatives used to work at
     the coffee shop there, selling drinks and
     food such as chicken rice. My dad would
     drive my siblings and I in his van to Neo
     Tiew where we would play at the circular
     playground. It has a small village feel,
     quite like Changi Village. It is a pity that
     the place is no longer inhabited after 2002.
     The drawing itself is an alternate universe of
     what Neo Tiew could have been.

     How do we balance between managing
     change in our landscape and keeping
     our heritage alive?

     We need to continue to be sensitive
     to the historical context and present
     circumstances beyond pragmatic needs
     and superficial applications. There is also a
     need for active and effective engagement
     with stakeholders like architects, historians
     and residents. I am envious of what I see
     in Kyoto in Japan or Yilan in Taiwan, but
     I don’t think it is possible to simply take
     their model and plant it in Singapore. We
     need to develop our own unique model
     for Singapore that can accommodate both
     our development aspirations and create a
     landscape with a soul at the same time.

24                                                    25
Physical spaces are                                                                                      Tell us about your growing up years.

     more than shells
                                                                                                              I grew up in Kampong Chai Chee in the
                                                                                                              early 1970s, living in a big compound,
                                                                                                              in wooden houses with attap and zinc
     Artist Koh Hong Teng tells us why we need to tell                                                        roofs. When I was 6, I moved to Bedok
     stories about buildings and places.                                                                      New Town where my family operated
                                                                                                              a provision shop. That was where I
     WRITER                                                                                                   first came across a hawker centre as
     Serene Tng
                                                                                                              it was situated just next to the row of
                                                                                                              shophouses I lived in. It was there that I
                                                                                                              had the wonderful experience of eating
                                                                                                              Mee Rebus for the first time.                imprints in time and space.
                                                                                                                                                           We ask ourselves why a particular
                                                                                                              How has your neighbourhood                   building was designed this way. We can
                                                                                                              influenced your work?                        also learn to identify the period when it
                                                                                                                                                           was built by looking at the architectural
                                                                                                              There was a tailor living next to our        style. It gives suggestions to the type of
                                                                                                              shophouse and I remembered playing           dwellers and users of this space and how
                                                                                                              hide and seek with his son and other         they maximise their use and comfort.
                                                                                                              kids in the neighbourhood. He had a full     What is interesting to me is that these
                                                                                                              length window that displayed his clothes     spaces are not just shells that encase us,
                                                                                                              on half torso mannequins dressed with        but rather an extension of ourselves.
                                                                                                              ‘洋服’ (yang fu), meaning Western-style
                                                                                                              clothes. There were other fascinating        You say it’s important to tell stories
                                                                                                              shops in the neighbourhood which was         about our buildings and places. Why?          Image above:
                                                                                                                                                                                                         A drawing of the old
                                                                                                              the major influence when I created the                                                     National Stadium
                                                                                                              painting series “BLKS&NOS” depicting         It is important because it is not just your   as remembered
                                                                                                              these unique shop spaces. Sadly, some of     personal memory when you tell them,           by ex-national
                                                                                                                                                                                                         footballer Malek
                                                                                                              the shops I painted like the watch shop      but it becomes a collective memory when       Awab, featured in
                                                                                                              and television repair shop are no longer     others get to read them. And we can grow      the book, “Building
                                                                                                              around.                                      as a community only if we share and care      Memories – People
                                                                                                                                                                                                         Architecture
                                                                                                                                                           for one another. So I would say the best      Independence”
                                                                                                              What is one building you would like to       way to get started is the willingness to      and a No. 01-667
                                                                                                              bring back?                                  share. Of what tools and techniques to        (BLKS&NOS Series),
                                                                                                                                                                                                         Acrylic on Canvas,
                                                                                                                                                           employ are secondary. The important           900 x 1200 mm
                                                                                                              Definitely the old National Stadium. It      thing is the authenticity of your story and   (bottom)
                                                                                                              holds wonderful memories for two of my
                                                                                                              passions: football and art. I remembered
                                                                                                              watching Au-Yeong Pak Kuan, Terry
                                                                                                              Pathmanathan and Malek Awab playing
                                                                                                              when my grandfather brought me to the
                                                                                                              stadium for the first time. As for art, it
                                                                                                              was the venue for the art competition
                                                                                                              hosted by Singapore Airlines that I took
     Image above:                                Comic artist and illustrator Koh Hong Teng is known for      part in when I was in the second year of
     Comic pages from
     “The Prodigy”, with
                                                 tackling issues close to Singaporeans’ hearts from hawkers   Junior College.
     writer Dave Chua.                           to generational gaps between parents and children. He
                                                 combines fact and fiction in thought-provoking graphic       Architecture is the backdrop where
                                                 forms that reflects our changing urban landscape. He talks   things happen. What fascinates you
                                                 about how the neighbourhood he grew up in influences his     about it?
                                                 work and suggests that telling stories about our physical
                                                 spaces can help us grow as a community.                      When we look at an architecture, we see

26                                                                                                                                                                                                                              27
Who is that guy in white?
     How do you get people to remember forgotten places?
     By taking selfies…of a different kind.

     WRITER
     Serene Tng

                                                                                                            Tell us about your 50th shot.
                                                                                                            (image on the left)

                                                                                                            This is my grandparents’ old Housing &
                                                                                                            Development Board block at Bukit Merah
                                                                                                            View. I was raised by my grandparents
                                                                                                            for the first 2 years of my life, spending
                                                                                                            my childhood at this very block. My
                                                                                                            time was spent playing games of chase
                                                                                                            and catch, and hide-and-seek with my
                                                                                                            brother and cousins along the corridors. I
                                                                                                            even remember riding my bike down the
                                                                                                            stairs and falling, resulting in a very bad
                                                                                                            swollen bump on my forehead. I started
                                                                                                            the Yesteryear project inspired by my
                                                                                                            grandparents’ flat, wanting to recapture
                                                                                                            such places with vivid memories. It is
                                                                                                            apt that I am ending the series with this
                                                                                                            personal space. This single image sums
                                                                                                            up the entire series.

                                                                                                            What are some of your most
                                                                                                            memorable shots?

                                                                                                            The 41st image is one of them. This
                                                                                                            place has one of the last un-dammed
                                                                                                            rivers in Singapore. It used to be a
                                                                                                            kampung before the villagers were
                                                                                                            evicted in 2007. It is a mangrove forest
                                                                                                            and the villagers used to build their
                                                                                                            houses along the mudflats and river,
                                                                                                            rearing prawns and fish. It was quite an
                                                                                                            experience for me to navigate my way
                                                                                                            through in the mangroves, with my feet
                                          What started out on just a simple whim to ‘cure boredom’ has      completely submerged in the mud. It
                                          turned into a memorable Yesteryear project that has captured      felt like it took forever just to walk a few
                                          people’s imagination about forgotten places in Singapore. A       steps forward. It was slippery and there
                                          liberal arts student from the Nanyang Technological University,   were shells, rocks, and crabs that made
                                          Sean Cham took 50 surreal photographs of abandoned places         walking in the mud much harder. I had my
                                          in 2015 as a tribute to Singapore turning 50. Why surreal? Sean   toe stubbed in the process of taking the
                                          places himself in all of the photos, dressed in all white from    photo, standing in my own pool of blood
                                          head to toe. He does everything by himself, from researching      as I viewed the images on my camera.
                                          and selecting each place to planning and capturing each shot.
                                          The project has helped him gain a new appreciation for places
                                          and spaces as vessels of memories.

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Any interesting stories behind
     the places?
                                                  So places to you are like vessels
                                                  of memories.                                  Time travelling
     Each place has its own unique story and
     contributes to the larger Singapore story.
                                                  The success of Singapore in transforming
                                                  from a third-world country to a first-world
                                                                                                with Royston Tan
     There was a shoot-out between the police     metropolis in a mere span of over 50          Filmmaker Royston Tan on panda-hunting
     and 2 convicts in the cemetery featured      years is an incredible one. We owe this       and preserving memories.
     in the 44th photograph. Both convicts        success to our forefathers and the pioneer
     subsequently committed suicide with          generation, without which we would not        WRITER
     gunshots to their heads. As for the 31st     be able to enjoy gleaming skyscrapers,        Vicki Yang
     shot, it was rumoured that the Japanese      beautiful streets and greenery in our city
     soldiers used prisoners of war as chess      today. We have progressed so much as a
     pieces; hence I recreated this in the        nation. But as with progress, there will be
     photograph. And in my 43rd image, it         change. It is important for us to strike a
     was actually taken within the National       balance between embracing change and
     University of Singapore campus, right        preserving the old. Every single building,
     behind the Science block. I doubt many       place, and space has its own unique story,
     students will know about that. This place    a story forged by the people who live
     witnessed the grotesque battle of Bukit      and work there, a story of the change it
     Chandu where the Malay Regiment fought       has undergone, a story of the events and
     against the invading Japanese army.          happenings revolving around it.

                                                                                                                                   Filmmaker Royston Tan is charged with a mission:
                                                                                                                                   to document the passing of things before they become history.

                                                                                                                                   His feature-length film, 3688 (2015), gives the much-maligned
                                                                                                                                   local parking attendants their day in the sun — for the first half
                                                                                                                                   of the film at least. Parking attendant Fei Fei, played by singer
                                                                                                                                   Joi Chua, is constantly undermined by a wily band of ‘summon
                                                                                                                                   aunties’, as parking attendants are known in local lexicon, as
                                                                                                                                   they patrol in the Dakota Crescent neighbourhood. Soon, the
                                                                                                                                   plot unfurls the uneven road to stardom as Fei Fei joins a singing
                                                                                                                                   competition. But it isn’t about the transformative dreams of
                                                                                                                                   a girl from the suburbs (or car park) that takes precedence on
                                                                                                                                   screen. The film’s preoccupation is with the forceful march of
                                                                                                                                   time — the reminiscences of Fei Fei’s dementia-ridden father,
                                                                                                                                   his ritual of hawking Rediffusion radios as a former door-to-door
                                                                                                                                   salesman and the ‘summon aunties’ retrenched and replaced
                                                                                                                                   with electronic gantries.

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“A lot of people summarise the film as the   of time came to Royston during a lunch          something Royston repeats constantly as       when the 7-year-old left the kampong life
     passing of an era and the ownership of       at Maxwell Food Centre. “This parking           we chat and chronicle his filmography.        of Lorong Kinchir, today Lorong Chuan in
     the past generation,” surmises Royston.      attendant came in and everyone ran away         From documentaries of old landmarks           the Serangoon district, to HDB life in the
     One scene that found particular favour       very fast, screaming ‘Fong Fei Fei’ and         and suburban shops in Old Places (2010)       early 1980s.
     with the older generation was what he        all kinds of names, but she only went to        and Old Romances (2012), to a short
     called ‘the simple sound design’ of the      the toilet to change into another outfit        film on the oldest Hokkien opera troupe       “I was from the transitional period — the
     Rediffusion radio knob being turned by       so that she can buy lunch!” says the            like Sin Sai Hong (2006), one might infer     last generation to stay in the kampong,
     Fei Fei. “It triggered something in many     filmmaker, almost desperately. “A lot of        that Royston’s filmography is deeply          the transition from non-digital to digital,”
     people.”                                     times, I find them sitting in the back alley,   entrenched in nostalgia. However, he          says the filmmaker. “It was traumatising
                                                  eating lunch where I like to go to shoot for    doesn’t shoot with rose-tinted lens. To the   for me to move. The air was different, the
     Race against time                            my Instagram. If not, they will be getting      filmmaker, these works aim to highlight       people would not talk to each other, the
                                                  stares and all kinds of verbal abuse. I         one’s roots for those who have forgotten.     doors were always closed. I grew up with
     Included in this archive of sounds from      thought: “they do have a story to tell.”                                                      fresh water from the well, and when there
     long ago in 3688 is the yelling of the                                                       “I cannot fight the change but I can          was water coming from the tap, it felt very
     name, “Fong Fei Fei”, a reference to         Co-written with writer Lim Fong Wei,            document these things before they are         strange,” he recalls.
     the famous Taiwanese songbird from           saw the shadowing of 2 parking                  gone,” says Royston. “Right now, people
     the 1970s, known for her multitude of        attendants to observe their day-to-day          in Singapore are very desensitised, like      From one generation to another, the
     hats. More importantly, it’s yet another     encounters. That was when Royston               it’s better not to feel. But when you stop    reminiscences of kampong life have been
     name hat-clad parking attendants             realised that these female street wardens       feeling, that’s the moment you start          passed down verbally (aside from a visit
     are known by. It’s also used as a            were being replaced by machines and             dying. That’s why I’m doing this.”            to Pulau Ubin or Lorong Buangkok), so
     call in neighbourhoods to warn the           men. “Those we spoke to had the attitude                                                      I ask him to draw the village map from
     unsuspecting public who are away             of ‘let’s take one day at a time’. A lot of     The village boy                               his memory.
     from their cars, a trait of “a distinctive   things were changing, so I thought I have
     Singapore culture” to Royston.               to archive this as soon as possible, don’t      The loss of places is something Royston       Under a pen dripping ink, the lines of the
                                                  wait already!”                                  feels most keenly about, in part due to a     houses and trees blur into each other, but
     The idea to create a film around a parking                                                   consequential episode in his childhood        Royston is only too happy to go into the
     attendant haplessly against the march        This ‘don’t wait already’ phrase is                                                           details of the sketch (image below) from
                                                                                                                                                left to right: the communal toilet that was
                                                                                                                                                very scary to visit in the dark (“sometimes
                                                                                                                                                got pervert”); the Teochew neighbour
                                                                                                                                                who sold tau suan and other desserts
                                                                                                                                                with the use of fresh tapioca from the
                                                                                                                                                trees around; Royston’s family provision
                                                                                                                                                shop fronted by tables surrounded by
                                                                                                                                                old uncles drinking beer, “just chatting

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