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WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU POWER 30 OCTOBER 2019 21
PRESENTED BY
The
Power
30
Who made the
cut this year?
22 OCTOBER 2019 POWER 30 WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU POWER 30 OCTOBER 2019 23
PRESENTED BY PRESENTED BY
30
“February was a pretty quiet time in the the partnership with BlockTexx forms just million investment in a systems overhaul.
market so it enabled us to spend a lot of one pillar of the sustainability strategy for “We know we need a new model, we know
money at that time and get a very, very the business. “We’re not looking at it like we need a new future.”
good reach,” Hard says. a trial. We’re launching with BlockTexx
The
The campaign reached 2.58 million and then refining and taking learnings
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Power
unique women across Instagram and to improve volumes with them. Launch- Peter Alexander
Facebook. It was delivered to one in three ing shortly in the seven capital cities will PETER ALEXANDER FOUNDER
women active on social media and one in be denim amnesty bins and we’ll take In a volatile retail climate, lifestyle
five women in Australia. Through that, learnings and apply it to scale to all stores. retailer Peter Alexander continues to be
Only For Women had 3.7 million inter- Customers can return denim to our stores a consistent performer. The brand is well
actions and a reach of 781,000 unique from any brand and they’ll be rewarded ahead of plans to deliver in excess of $250
women between 18 and 24. According for returning with a voucher. We’re also million in annual sales by fiscal 2020. This
to Hard, the result was a 23% increase in putting plans in place to eliminate plastic year, it delivered record half year sales of
revenue on the site and most importanly bags and installing LED lighting,” he says. $130.4 million, up 14.1% on 1H18. Part
These are this year’s most a foot into the younger women’s market.
“It is important to innovate and try new
of Solomon Lew’s Premier Retail Group,
the brand opened five new stores and con-
influential fashion leaders.
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ideas to test the waters,” she says. Clare Press tinued the expansion of its plus size and
VOGUE AUSTRALIA SUSTAINABILITY children’s sleepwear lines. It also contin-
EDITOR-AT-LARGE ued to deliver significant online sales
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Michael Gazal “Many of the conversations over the com- growth, vowing to grow investment
GAZAL CORPORATION ing days will be about the climate crisis in the channel. “You have to be
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR reaching crunch point,” Clare Press said as flexible and understand the ever-
This year, PVH Corp made a long-awaited she crossed to a panel of experts at the 2019 changing environment of the fash-
strike on Australia’s Gazal Corporation. Copenhagen Fashion Summit. Press’ in- ion industry,” Alexander says. “The
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Rod Levis Richard Facioni to leverage Catch’s infrastructure across Executive director Michael Gazal, who fluence in the sustainability space extends landscape has changed so dramati-
CUE CLOTHING CO-FOUNDER ALCEON RETAIL GROUP the entire network of brands. “We are ex- owns almost 40% of the company, was well beyond Australian shores, sitting on cally since I started.”
A commitment to local manufactur- EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR cited to work with the Catch team and the biggest winner in the meteoric deal Copenhagen Fashion Week’s Sustainabil-
ing allows his business to place new designs Alceon Retail Group executive director look forward to leveraging our capabili- with the US giant. Most of Gazal’s reve- ity Advisory Board and contributing to in-
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into stores within three to five weeks. And Richard Facioni has a number of brands ties to grow the business and accelerate nue is extracted through its joint venture ternational forums such as Global Fashion Michael Hardwick
after 50 years of supporting Australian in the investment portfolio: but it’s retail, the customer-driven, omnichannel ini- with PVH, PVH Brands Australia – on- Agenda. As an advocate for the circular COTTON ON GROUP CFO
makers, founder Rod Levis was formally particularly fashion retail, that has cap- tiatives across Kmart and Target,” Bailey selling its Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, economy and CSR, In May, Cotton On Group CFO
recognised in this year’s Queen’s Birth- tured the industry’s attention. The invest- says. “This will further drive best practice Van Heusen, Pierre Cardin, Trent Nathan she also presents a Michael Hardwick flew to Amsterdam on
day Honours List. Levis was awarded an ment firm has fast become one of the big- in supply chain, fulfilment and online ex- and Fred Bracks brands in Australia. The regular podcast se- an important mission. It was green in pur-
AM, a Member of the Order of Austra- gest apparel groups in the country, with ecution across our brands, including op- aggregate net purchase price for the deal, ries called ‘Ward- pose - but not the type the city is normally
lia, for his significant service to the fash- Noni B, Specialty Fashion Group, Pretty portunities for Target to secure online ful- which included approximately 78% of robe Crisis’, fea- associated with. He was there to accept
ion retail and manufacturing industry, as Girl Fashion Group, Ezibuy and Pumpkin filment capacity and productivity benefits. Gazal shares, was A$124 million. PVH turing the likes of an award for ‘Responsible Retailer Initia-
well as the community. It all started in Patch all acquisitions. This year, Facioni Catch will also benefit from the support already owned 22% of Gazal’s shares with Ellen MacArthur, tive of The Year’ at the World Retail Con-
1968, when Levis and his team introduced cast the net further afield with a major- of Kmart Group’s scale and capabilities to PVH Corp CEO Emanuel Chirico prais- Livia Firth, Roland gress. The Group’s green credentials were
trend-driven and fashion forward designs ity buyout of designer womenswear label drive its continued growth.” ing local management. “PVH currently – Mouret and Rosa- recognised on the international stage, with
to Sydney. Still Australian owned by Le- Ginger & Smart. “This is a strategic move and for many years – has had a successful rio Dawson. its sustainable cotton program in Kenya
vis and his family, Cue is the largest local to continue to diversify our portfolio and business relationship with our Australian the most notable achievement. Since its
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manufacturer of fashion in Australia and invest in highly desirable retail brands,” Rebecca Hard partners. Gazal has enhanced the market inception, the program has been the cata-
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is accredited with Ethical Clothing Austra- he says. “We plan to grow the business, SUSSAN GM position of our brands in Australia and Ian Moir lyst for major economic activity in the re-
lia. “This honour has come as a complete both online and through physical stores. How can a New Zealand and we believe the region WOOLWORTHS (SOUTH AFRICA) CEO gion, with the Kenyan Government now
surprise naturally,” he says. “I am not sure [Founders] Alexandra and Genevieve heritage womens- continues to offer significant growth over It’s been a mixed year for Woolworths announcing plans to replicate the model
why my nomination was successful – but I bring notable management and design wear brand like the next five years.” CEO Ian Moir. In February, local subsid- nationally. It launched with only 15 farm-
am both honoured and proud. The award calibre and we look forward to working Sussan, which iary Country Road Group reported total ers in 2014 and today has more than 2,500
strengthens my resolve to retain as much of together.” attracts 75% of sales growth of 2.3% for the half year to farmers engaged and 10,000 to be sup-
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our production locally as feasible.” overall sales from Sacha Laing December 30. The Group credited margin ported by 2020. “Over the last 27 years, we
560,000 members, GENERAL PANTS CEO growth to a strong focus around full-priced have developed our business through be-
3
Ian Bailey move into the As the industry pushes towards a sales, as well as good inventory manage- ing resourceful and finding a better way,”
KMART GROUP MD future without more sustainable future, one streetwear ment. Sales grew 0.5% on a like-for-like he says. “We’re committed to conducting
In June, Wesfarmers announced it alienating its ex- chain is promoting the ultimate solu- basis, with gross profit margin up 0.3% business ethically and sustainably.”
would acquire Australian eCommerce isting customer tion: a circular economy with customer to 64%. The picture was much bleaker for
group Catch for $230 million. While base? For Rebecca Hard, the answer is a rewards. General Pants CEO Sacha La- its most recent acquisition David Jones,
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the business will continue to operate as creative revitalisation backed by a digital- ing commenced a trial this year with however. In the second writedown since its Christine Centenera
an independent unit, it will be overseen first marketing strategy. The brand un- full-circle fashion waste solution firm $2.2 billion purchase in 2014, its value was WARDROBE NYC CO-FOUNDER
by Kmart Group MD Ian Bailey. Com- leashed a directional winter strategy in BlockTexx. The Sydney-based business reduced to $985 million this year. Blam- Long-known for her reputation
bined with his stewardship of discount February, underpinned by its ‘Only For uses a process called separation of fabric ing “unprecedented” economic pressures as a global style force – centrally through
department stores Myer and David Jones, Women’ campaign. The creative featured technology (SOFT) to break down poly- for the move, Moir vowed a comeback was her work with Vogue Australia – Centen-
this makes him a serious operator in the high-end editorial looks, communicated cotton textiles into raw materials to be re- still on the cards following a $200 million era has added retail disrupter to her re-
value space. In fact, Bailey says he aims digitally and via an in-store campaign. purposed in various industries. Laing says overhaul of its Sydney flagship and a $350 sume. Her fashion venture with designer
24 OCTOBER 2019 POWER 30 WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU POWER 30 OCTOBER 2019 25
PRESENTED BY PRESENTED BY
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Josh Goot, Wardrobe NYC is becoming Peter Mitchley-Hughes Sydney with an opening speech delivered after years of stewardship under CEO Raju as Yd, Connor, Johnny Big and Tarocash.
a pioneer in the direct-to-consumer re- POLITIX MD by industry powerbroker Naomi Milgrom. Vuppalapati. The brand, backed by the Under Novis’ leadership, the brand house
tail model. Designed in NYC and made There’s a lot to be said for a pow- Born in Kyoto, Japan, Akira arrived and private equity arm of LVMH, was looking continues to deliver with TFG looking at
in Italy, Wardrobe NYC produces small er team – and with the support of recent introduced his signature East–West fusion. to go under the hammer for as much as double-digit toppling growth this year.
collections throughout the year in packs hires, Politix MD Peter Mitchley-Hughes Manipulation of fabric, form and distinctive $500 million. The Singapore-based L Cat- “Retailers that have not reinvented them-
of around four and eight pieces, ranging is playing a solid game. Since joining the ‘fold’ design elements have captivated fash- terton Asia brought in investment bank selves and made sure their product is right
from $500 to $3000 in price. The re- business, he has focussed on ensuring its ion audiences around the world. “One can Goldman Sachs to look for buyers and run aren’t going to do well,” he says. Retail Ap-
leases are themed - streetwear, tailoring, end-to-end supply chain is fit for purpose. come and one can go and it could happen an auction for the Adelaide-based compa- parel Group operates around 400 stores
denim - and produced in limited quan- “I am driving the team very hard towards very quickly,” he says. “So actually having ny later this year. Vuppalapati scaled the nationally, as well as eCommerce plat-
tities as a rebuke to the industry’s con- a dynamic fashion model for men,” he a solid business for more than two decades business to around 50 retail shopfronts, forms and activewear label Rockwear.
sumption cycle. “Our experience in the says. “We’ve worked hard to create an ef- Your Fit and Follow the Brand features. for me is actually a thing that I feel that I’m including outlets in New York, London,
industry has led us to think about a bet- ficient supply chain which goes from de- The Iconic has achieved over two million proud of.” He attributes his lengthy time in New Zealand and Scandinavia and 500
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ter and more egalitarian way to practice sign to stores in less than 90 days, and our mobile app downloads, making it the most the industry to his rejection of trend-driven department stores. R.M. Williams’ sales Theo Onisforou
the elements of design and communica- repeats will happen in 40-50 days. We are downloaded fashion app in Australia, and designs and instead focussing on timeless have been growing thanks to his global THE INTERSECTION FOUNDER
tion that we love, and at the same time, constantly challenging the way we work.” receives 13 million online visits per month. pieces. “We believe in slower fashion rather push, coming in at $142 million last finan- “The great threat to Australian
improve the business model so that it’s Backed by head of creative and design The Iconic’s mobile-first strategy continues than faster fashion,” he says. cial year. That was up from $126 million fashion retail is the homogeneous chain
more efficient and less wasteful.” Paul Burden and head of marketing Rich- to hit new targets, with seven out of every in 2017. “We wanted to be sure we’re being stores trying to sell a $100 disposable gar-
ard Dalke, the trio are also refreshing the 10 visits to the site via mobile. The Iconic deliberate and not too quick – do it prop- ment. They want everyone around the
brand with a modern fashion edge. “Suit- offers a range of delivery options and made erly,” he says of the brand’s growth. “This world to buy the same garment at that
ing is actually about 30% of our business. history last month for unleashing drone brand deserves that respect.” price point. From my point of view, I am
Casual is growing and really establishing deliveries across Canberra. “At The Iconic repulsed by homogenous fashion, but it’s
itself as a big part of our business. Most we learn, build and test features based on a reality you can’t stop and it’s here. The
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people don’t go to the office or to events what our customers tell us,” Ghani says. Elizabeth Abegg main reason why we are at The Intersec-
in a suit and tie anymore, it’s now a mix of “The need for urgent delivery is something SPELL & THE GYPSY COLLECTIVE tion is that we aren’t competing with H &
different styles,” he says. most people can relate to. Drone deliv- – CO-FOUNDER M and the Zaras.” For close to 20 years,
ery will be an incredible solution for life’s It’s situated outside the fashion capitals The Intersection founder Theo Onisforou
tricky situations,” she says. of Melbourne and Sydney. But for By- has leased his Paddington precinct to lo-
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Stella Smith Stevens ron-based Spell & The Gypsy Collective, cal designers and independent labels only.
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COUNTRY ROAD MENSWEAR Mark Teperson which draws 80% of its revenue via direct- Situated in the heart of Sydney’s style
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DESIGNER Daniel Agostinelli ACCENT GROUP CDO to-consumer sales, it’s possible to run a district, it houses brands such as Bassike,
It’s no secret Country Road has a sweep- ACCENT GROUP CEO There’s a reason Accent Group profitable business and stay true to your Dion Lee and Ginger & Smart. Onisfo-
ing sustainability strategy in place, with a Another financial year. Another CDO Mark Teperson receives so many roots. “From our factories to our manu- rou is a strong advocate for local design-
time-bound target to make each product record result. Accent Group reported a industry accolades: when it comes to digi- facturing methods to our everyday foot- ers, with an Australian Fashion Walk Of
more sustainable by 2020. It’s also design- 22.5% increase in statutory net profit to tal, he’s the best in the business. Digital print here in Byron Bay, our vision is to Fame recognising leading lights.
ers such as Stella Smith Stevens who are $53.9 million for fiscal 2019, with earnings group sales grew 93% during fiscal 2019 continue to create beautiful garments that
translating these targets into reality. “In- increasing 22.5% to $108.9 million. Ac- and are on track to achieve 20% digital also inspire change towards truly sustain-
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ternationally our industry is making mas- cent Group CEO Daniel Agostinelli said sales within the next three years. A range able fashion,” Abegg says. The brand’s bo- Nelson Mair
sive strides in improving our production new store formats, reduced discounting of new initiatives were implemented this hemian designs have attracted a cult celeb- LUXURY RETAIL GROUP DIRECTOR
practises,” she says. “Country Road has and surging online sales helped deliver the year, including new websites launched for rity following, which includes Alessandra While middle-market retailers
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Daniel Bracken made a commitment to ensure all products result. “Our retail business continues to go Subtype, The Trybe and Vans NZ and Ambrosio, Elsa Pataky, Jessica Alba and struggle to combat sluggish conditions,
MICHAEL HILL CEO have a sustainable attribute by 2020. We from strength to strength. We continue to the rollout of endless aisle and same day Chrissy Teigen. It started as many Austra- the luxury category continues to grow. In
This year, jewellery chain Mi- feel passionately that denim is an area of evolve our in-store design and [introduce] delivery. Today, the profitability of the lian fashion brands do: with a market stall recent years, Luxury Retail Group has ex-
chael Hill revealed it underpaid staff by focus within our brand that needs to lead new customer experience elements includ- digital channel continues to grow and is selling hand-made wares. panded the local footprint of brands such
as much as $25 million over the past six the way.” This includes the introduction ing shoe cleaning, monogramming services now equivalent to the profitability rate of as Furla and Folli Follie before handing
years, joining a list of companies to admit of its mainline denim which uses Refibra and permanent DJ booths in the Platypus stores. The integrated inventory model, back the profitable businesses to their par-
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wage discrepancies. But it was the action (recycled cotton scraps and wood pulp) megastores. TAF has commenced the roll- enabled through click-and-collect, click- Gary Novis ent companies. It has a number of premium
taken by freshly appointed CEO Daniel and green label wash which uses 35L wa- out of MyFIT 3D, the latest foot scanning and-dispatch and endless aisle, provides RETAIL APPAREL GROUP CEO brands in its portfolio, including Sneaker-
Bracken that deserves recognition. It was ter (compared to average 70L) per pair of technology that scans a customer’s foot and customers access to Accent’s entire inven- Retail Apparel Group CEO boy, Balenciaga and Mulberry. The luxury
he who instigated an initial review of store jean. Country Road is also working with delivers real-time product recommenda- tory base. So what’s next for Teperson and Gary Novis is delivering for new owners retailing industry has grown at a rapid pace
staff contracts and found “non-compli- other bodies such as the Better Cotton Ini- tions.” The Group is one to watch in 2020: his league of digital innovators? Growth The Foschini Group (TFG). It bought out over the past five years, with revenue grow-
ance” with the applicable award rates. The tiative to include more sustainable fabrics it has plans to roll out a new footwear con- will be driven through continuing to the menswear retailer for $302 million ing an annualised 10.2% over the five years
historic misapplication of the retail award and treatments in ranges. cept, Pivot, aimed at providing value-con- evolve its 17 brand websites, improving two years ago, snapping up brands such through 2017-18 to $2.1 billion.
had been unerring for six years – with scious families with branded goods. customer experience on digital platforms
Bracken taking immediate action to recti- and better targeting customers by leverag-
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fy the oversight. A more detailed review by Zoe Ghani ing a 4.8 million strong database and new Mark Baartse
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auditors PricewaterhouseCoopers is being THE ICONIC CTO Akira Isogawa web-based, AI-driven CRM technology. SHOWPO CMO
undertaken “with urgency” to determine She was hired in September 2015 AKIRA ISOGAWA FOUNDER With over three million social
exactly how much each worker is owed. as director of product - and just three years Proving longevity exists in design- media followers, Showpo makes millions
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“We have self-discovered this issue, we’re later, Zoe Ghani was promoted as CTO er fashion, Akira Isogawa has a career span- Raju Vuppalapati in revenue via search, Facebook, email
going to resolve this matter as a priority, of The Iconic. Since her appointment, the ning over 25 years. In fact, at the turn of last R.M. WILLIAMS CEO and other digital channels. Baartse, who
we’re going to pay affected team members etailer has pioneered a number of technolo- year his work was celebrated in an exclusive In May, iconic Australian boot- has led the brand’s marketing strategy since
what is owed to them,” Bracken says. gy innovations such as Snap To Shop, Find exhibition at the Powerhouse Museum in maker R.M. Williams was placed for sale 2016, has enacted a range of digital initiatives
26 OCTOBER 2019 POWER 30 WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU
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to almost double Showpo’s sales in 12 Blake Williams and that our clients wanted, all of a sudden
months. “The team has done a lot of work AUSTRALIAN FASHION LABELS CEO had massive visibility,” she says. “They were
over the last few years on the complete There are many reasons Aus- on Net-A-Porter, ShopBop, delivery was
customer journey, from our increasingly tralian Fashion Labels CEO Blake Wil- free to door, it gave us massive restrictions
heavy investment in artificial intelligence liams could be recognised for leading the with margin.” And so commenced another
to our deep focus on the customer experi- group. It’s his knack for cracking the Chi- overhaul: discovering niche designer brands
ence,” he says. “We now have AI solutions nese market which lands him in the Power which aligned with the Husk customer.
behind our CRM, search, social and visual 30 this year. The brand house, which in- “The discovery brands also allowed us to
merchandising. Despite the hype of AI, we cludes labels Keepsake and C/Meo Collec- protect our margins because those brands
are still seeing the need for more people. It’s tive, has seen revenue in China grow from weren’t easily shoppable online, so we could
exciting to expand the team across a range zero to $7 million in four years. It is now deliver them when we wanted to at the price
of areas including brand, CRM, social and stocked in 300 retail stores and doing cross we needed to and protect the bottom line in
digital,” he says. border eCommerce from Hong Kong. It’s the business,” she says.
no easy feat either. “There’s a lot of bu-
reaucracy and
25 29
Sally Lennox a lot of licenses Angela Langmann
TARGET AUSTRALIA HEAD involved,” he AMAZON FASHION AUSTRALIA GM
OF DIGITAL EXPERIENCE says. “This is to Australian shoppers love to
At a 2018 strategy day for Wesfarmers, enable you both shop local brands, according to analysis
legendary department stores CEO Guy to trade and to by Amazon Fashion Australia GM Angela
Russo praised the steady progress in Tar- hold an internet Langmann. Langmann has been push-
get’s online business. In addition to a cen- content provider ing for greater representation of domestic C
tral distribution centre to pick, pack and license, which labels on the international platform and M
ship orders to customers, it was reducing you have to have says local markets are a great place to find
delivery times to customers through in- before you can Australian brands. “We’re known for be- Y
store fulfilment of digital purchases. For even have an ing a tech company, but what’s interesting CM
head of digital experience Sally Lennox, internet web ad- is that we have some very low-tech, grass
MY
it was about progressively rolling out the dress beyond the roots way of finding brands,” she says. “So
service to stores rather than a blanket so- Great Wall of China. That takes six to nine alongside looking at the data, we also go to CY
lution nationally. “We started very slowly months to secure, so it’s all about work- local markets, and just see what’s trending CMY
- you don’t need to turn on every single ing within the challenges of that market.” there. Paddington Markets is a great place
store to begin with.” It is just one pillar in It has paid off, with 20% of users logging to go, some great Australian brands have K
a full turnaround strategy for the discount in from a Chinese language computer to their roots there.” In 2017, she attended
department store, which is using loyalty access the company’s online store BNKR. the Finders Keepers Market and sourced
data to drive a customer-led omnichannel headwear brand Will and Bear for the
strategy. How far can the data drill down? Amazon platform.
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It knows the average Target customer is Kirrily Johnston
a mother who spends 15 minutes in the HUSK CREATIVE DIRECTOR
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store and is most likely to shop for (in or- How do you reinvent a boutique Emily Rice
der) her home, kids and, finally, for herself. brand with over two decades of trade, with- PETA AUSTRALIA OUTREACH
out disrupting loyal customers? That was AND PARTNERSHIPS LIAISON
the question facing creative director Kirrily In a year when Prada Group ditched
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Shane Fallscheer Johnston, when she designed her first full fur and the issue of animal welfare
LOVISA MANAGING DIRECTOR collection for the brand in autumn 2017. reached headlines, Emily Rice ensured
Despite describing fiscal 2019 as Fast forward to today and her directional the movement hit local shores too. Fol-
one of the most difficult trading periods designs now contribute 60% of revenue, lowing a PETA video exposé, Austra-
in recent times, Lovisa managing director fusing the brand’s rich tapestry of influenc- lian Fashion Labels and One Teaspoon
Shane Fallscheer still delivered a solid re- ers with a modern aesthetic. “The biggest both confirmed cashmere would not ap-
sult. Revenue was up 15.3% year on year challenge for Husk was online because the pear in future collections. The decision
to $250.3 million, bolstered by the addi- well-known brands that we’d been heroing came after PETA provided the Austra-
tion of 64 new stores throughout the year. lian businesses with video footage of the
While same store sales were down 0.5%, killing of cashmere goats in China and
Fallscheer says softer trading conditions in Mongolia, which produce 90% of the
the first half and the lack of major trends world’s cashmere. “By committing to
in the fashion jewellery space dented the policies banning cashmere from future
result. Lovisa draws the majority of its collections, both Australian Fashion
revenue from Australia, which has 154 lo- Labels and One Teaspoon have made
cations, with a move into the US market not only a compassionate decision but
currently sitting at 28 stores in California, also a savvy business move,” Small says.
Texas, Florida and Illinois. Lovisa report- “Nowadays, consumers are looking to
ed a 2.8% in earnings before interest and buy from ethical brands that are kind to
tax to $52.5 million. animals – and the planet.” ■
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