2021 TOURIST GUIDE BESANÇON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - www.besancon-tourisme.com

Page created by Steve Ayala
 
CONTINUE READING
2021 TOURIST GUIDE BESANÇON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - www.besancon-tourisme.com
TOURIST GUIDE
    BESANÇON AND
    ITS SURROUNDINGS

2021

 www.besancon-tourisme.com
2021 TOURIST GUIDE BESANÇON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - www.besancon-tourisme.com
OFFICE DE TOURISME
      La cave aux fromages,                                     ET DES CONGRÈS
   Gourmandise & authenticité !                                 DU GRAND BESANÇON
                                                                52 Grande Rue
                                                                                                                                                                        Paris
                                                                                                                                                                                                   Strasbourg

                                                                Place du Huit Septembre
                                                                25000 Besançon                                                                                       BESANÇON                                Geneva
                                                                Tel. + 33 (0)3 81 80 92 55
                                                                Fax +33 (0)3 81 80 58 30
                                                                info@besancon-tourisme.com                                                                                                   Lyon
                                                                www.besancon-tourisme.com

                                                                High Season – July and August
                                                                From Monday to Sunday -10am
                                                                to 6pm
                                                                Low Season
                                                                From Monday to Saturday
                                                                10am -12.30 and 1.30-6pm
                                                                On Sunday from 10am to 1pm
                                                                during school holidays and on
                                                                June and September

                                                                Closed
                                                                Closed on Bank holidays, except                                                  !      Opening times may change
                                                                                                                                                        during the year.
                                                                on High Season

                                                                GROUP TOURS,                                                                  BESANÇON GROUP
                                                                                                                                              TOUR SERVICE
                                                                CONVENTIONS                                                                   You want to organise an excursion
                                                                AND SEMINARS:                                                                 or a stay in Besançon for at least
                                                                                                                                              20 people? We will arrange it all,
                                                                WE ORGANISE THEM                                                              with you, coordinating sightseeing,

             Plus de 3000 références !                          WITH YOU                                                                      meals, accommodation, an expert
                                                                                                                                              tour guide…

       Fromages - Épicerie fine - Vins et spiritueux            BESANÇON CONVENTION                                                           Contact:
                                                                                                                                              Tel + 33 (0)3 81 80 92 69
                                                                SERVICE
            Crèmerie - Produits du terroir.                     You would like to organise
                                                                                                                                              Fax + 33 (0)3 81 80 58 30
                                                                                                                                              groupes@besancon-tourisme.com
                                                                a convention, seminar or conference?
                                                                Let us customise it with you from start
                                                                to finish. This is a free service.
                                                                Tel + 33 (0)3 81 80 92 00
                                                                Fax + 33 (0)3 81 80 58 30
                                   Boutique en ligne            congres@besancon-tourisme.com
                               www.lacaveauxfromages.com

2, rue Gustave Courbet - Place du Marché - 25000 BESANCON
Tél. : 03 63 18 33 81 - Email : contact@lacaveauxfromages.com   Avril 2021 — Réalisation : Office de Tourisme du Grand Besançon — Photo Credits: Direction de la Communication Ville de Besançon: Jean Charles
                                                                Sexe, Eric Chatelain — Regional Tourism Committee of Franche-Comté, Casino JOA, Clap 35, CIGC Images et Associés, CIGC Szewczyk, D. Bringard, H.

               site : www.lacaveauxfromages.com                 Guenat, L.D. Hughes, Yves Petit, J-F Berne, Jack Varlet, Le Criollo, M. Pierre, Métiers d’Art en Franche-Comté, Musée des Maisons Comtoises, Nicolas
                                                                Waltefaugle, Salins-les-Bains Tourist Office, MTCC-cl. Y. Goux, La Rodia, City of Besançon, Besançon Visitor and Convention Information Centre, FRAC

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 3
2021 TOURIST GUIDE BESANÇON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - www.besancon-tourisme.com
Besançon is the City of Time.
    It has a rich clockmaking and historical past.
    Besançon clockmakers continue to exercise
    their craft and art today, and traces
    of their history can still be seen here
    and there in the streets of the city.
    There are also many architectural treasures
    (Renaissance facades, outdoor staircases,
    buildings of blue-beige stone) which will delight
    all heritage and history lovers.
    Besançon, with its tourist, heritage
    and clockmaking attractions, has made
    it into the ranks of the best!
    In 2020 the UNESCO inscribed on its list the
    know-how in watchmaking mechanics and art
    as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

    It consistently comes in first, of all the “green”
    cities of France, thanks to its extensive network
    of green park areas. Life is good in Besançon
    and you can feel it in its daily rhythm of special
    events, festivals and exhibitions.

              IMPORTANT:
              COVID-19 information
              As the tourism sector is still strongly impacted,
              our information may change daily. Please
              check our website regularly, or contact us for
              up-to-date and verified information.

    Photo opposite, photograph : Emmanuel EME
4   Copyright/Crédits : Grand Besançon Métropole
                                                                  5
2021 TOURIST GUIDE BESANÇON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - www.besancon-tourisme.com
P.8 FAMOUS PEOPLE            P.44 VILLAGES AROUND
                             BESANÇON
P.14 CULTURAL HERITAGE
                             P.49 GOING OUT
P.16 VAUBAN
                             P.50 BESANÇON OUTDOOR
P.18 THE CITADEL
                             P.53 OPEN-AIR MARKETS/
P.21 THE GAULS               ANTIQUE MARKETS
AND THE ROMANS
                             P.54 USEFUL ADDRESSES
P.22 MUSEUMS
                             P.56 COMING AND GOING
P.25 AS TIME GOES BY
                             P.58 CITY CENTRE MAP
P.26 RELIGIOUS HERITAGE
                             P.64 MAP OF GREATER
P.28 ARCHITECTURE            BESANÇON

P.31 FOUNTAINS               P.67 THE RIVERS AND
                             VALLEYS OF LOUE-LISON
P.32 THE DOUBS               AWAIT YOU!

P.36 THE SURROUNDING AREA

P.38 FAMILY AND CHILDREN     all prices are quoted
                             for 2021 and may be modified
P.42 AN INTERNATIONAL CITY

P.43 UNESCO SITE

                                                            CITÉ DES ARTS - CITADELLE

6                                                                                   7
2021 TOURIST GUIDE BESANÇON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - www.besancon-tourisme.com
BESANÇON
                                                                                  4
FAMOUS PEOPLE
1

                         2                                3                                               5                                            6

WRITERS                                  VICTOR HUGO 3
                                         (1802–1885)
                                                                                  ARTISTS                                    JENS BOETTCHER 6
GABRIELLE SIDONIE                                                                                                            This sculptor, born in Essen, Germany
“COLETTE” 1                              Due to one of the military postings      CLAUDE GOUDIMEL                            in 1933, came to live in France in 1968.
                                         of his father, then General of           (ca 1520–1572)                             He was appointed professor at the
(1873–1954)
                                         the Empire, the Hugo family settled      Born in Besançon, Goudimel was             School of Fine Art of Besançon in 1975;
Colette was a novelist, journalist
                                         in the Doubs for a time. Hugo was born   a musician and a composer who put          he taught there until retirement.
and music hall artist. In September
                                         on February 26th, 1802 in Besançon       several of Ronsard’s odes and sonnets      He now lives in Barjac in the Gard
1902, her husband Henry Gauthier-
                                         at No. 104, Grande Rue. He was a poet,   to music.                                  Department. He created The Minotaur,
Villars (Willy), descendant of an old
                                         playwright and novelist and is                                                      the huge fountain sculpture in bronze
Franche-Comté family, bought a house
                                         considered one of the most important                                                you can see in the river at the Denfert-
and property at Monts-Boucons.
                                         writers of the French language.
                                                                                  OUSMANE SOW 4                              Rochereau Bridge. The Minotaur
She spent several summers there,                                                  This sculptor from Senegal created
                                         He was also involved in politics                                                    is 7m high and weighs 10 tonnes.
using some of her time to write some                                              the statue of Victor Hugo for the
                                         and was an intellectual who played                                                  Another of his sculptures is at Victor
of her novels. Some titles: Claudine                                              Refusal of Exclusion and Poverty Day
                                         a major role in 19th century history.                                               Hugo square. The St. Quentin
at School, Claudine in Paris, Claudine                                            in 2002. It stands in the Rights of Man
                                         His birthplace is now a museum, which                                               Fountain dates from 1756: it forms
Married, Seven animal’s conversations                                             plaza in Besançon’s city centre.
                                         celebrates his talents and influence.                                               the background for Boettcher’s
                                         Some of his most well-known novels       In 2013, Sow sculpted Man and Child        La Source.
JEAN-CHARLES                             are: The Misérable, The Hunchback        for Besançon’s new memorial to
EMMANUEL NODIER 2                        of Notre-Dame, The Last Day of           the dead at the Memorial Space
                                                                                                                             GUSTAVE COURBET
(1780–1844)                              a Condemned Man, The Legend of           at Les Glacis Park.
                                                                                                                             (1819–1877)
Nodier was a journalist, writer and      the Ages.                                                                           Born on June 10th, 1819 in Ornans, near
leader of the Romantics. He frequently                                            LUC BRETON 5                               Besançon, Courbet was a painter and
mentioned the charms of his native                                                (1731–1800)                                one of the leaders of the Realist School.
province in his writings. He was born                                             Born in Besançon, Breton was a             He is known for the raw realism of
on April 29th, 1780, in a house – no
longer extant – on Victor Hugo Square
(site of the current No. 7).
                                         “I am one                                sculptor, who made his career in Italy.
                                                                                  He returned to Besançon in 1771
                                                                                                                             his works, in particular, The Origin
                                                                                                                             of the World (1866), which was

                                         of the paving
                                                                                  and in 1773, with the Swiss painter        considered scandalous at the time.
                                                                                  Jean Wyrsch, founded the Besançon          Courbet was anticlerical, had anarchistic
                                                                                  School of Painting and Sculpting.
                                         stones on                                He is considered to be the best
                                                                                  Franche-Comté sculptor of the 18th
                                                                                                                             leanings, was a friend of the socialist
                                                                                                                             theoretician, Pierre-Joseph Proudhon,

                                         the road of
                                                                                                                             and one of the elected members of
                                                                                  century. His works in Besançon include     the Paris Commune of 1871. He lived
                                                                                  The Pieta in Saint Peter’s Church,         at No. 140, Grande-Rue in Besançon.
                                         humanity.”                               the Angels in Adoration behind
                                                                                  the high altar at Saint John’s Cathedral
                                                                                                                             There is a trompe-l’œil of him at
                                                                                                                             the windows giving onto Victor Hugo
                                         In a letter from Victor Hugo             and the decor of the Fountain of the       Square. He died on 31 December 1877
                                         to the people of Besançon, 1880          Ladies at 8 bis, rue Charles Nodier.       in La Tour-de-Peilz in Switzerland.

8                                                                                                                                                                   9
2021 TOURIST GUIDE BESANÇON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - www.besancon-tourisme.com
2                                                                                         6

1                               3                      4                                   5                              7

MILITARY AND                                NICOLAS PERRENOT
                                            DE GRANVELLE 2
                                                                                      VAUBAN (SÉBASTIEN
                                                                                      LE PRESTRE DE VAUBAN) 5
                                                                                                                                 SCIENTISTS
POLITICAL PEOPLE                            (1486–1550)                               (1633–1707)                                AND ENGINEERS
                                            De Granvelle was a lawyer,                Louis XIV owed much to Sébastien
CHARLES FOURIER 1                           who became the Holy Roman Emperor         Le Prestre de Vauban. From 1668            AUGUSTE AND LOUIS LUMIÈRE 6
(1772–1837)                                 Charles V’s First Advisor in 1524.        onwards, as the King’s Engineer,           (1862–1954) (1864–1948)
After working in trade and banking,         He built the Granvelle Palace             he designed and built the first defence    The Lumière brothers were
Charles Fourier, philosopher and            in Besançon.                              system for France’s land and maritime      the inventors of the technology
utopian economist, designed plans                                                     borders. He studied attack procedures      and the commercial exploitation
for a harmoniously built city,              ANTOINE PERRENOT                          and created a method of siege that         of cinematography. They also made
a Phalanstère (Phalanstery), whose                                                    was used for 2 centuries. He provided      significant improvements to
                                            DE GRANVELLE 3
citizens would find personal and                                                      the brilliant strategic and military       photography. They were born at No. 1,
professional fulfilment in their work.      (1517–1586)                               advice that was largely responsible        Saint Quentin Square (now Victor
This economic, social and human             Son of Nicolas, Antoine de Granvelle      for the destruction of the Besançon        Hugo Square). There is a sculpture
reform project aimed at ensuring            became a cardinal and succeeded           (and Franche-Comté) forces, both           illustrating a scene from their film,
an ideal life for mankind, but attempts     his father in service to the Hapsburgs.   in 1668 and in 1674. After the conquest    The Sprinkler Sprinkled, done
to bring this to fruition failed. Fourier   He was a great statesman, patron          in 1668, he designed the plans for         by Pascal Coupot* in the courtyard
was born in a 16th century house,           of the arts and a collector. He added     the Citadel. And then, with the treaty     of the Pierre Bayle Centre, rue
today Nos. 81 and 83, Grande Rue.           to art and literature collections begun   of Aix-la-Chapelle, Franche-Comté          de la République, in the city centre.
                                            by his father and thanks to him,          was returned to the Spaniards,
                                            the Besançon Municipal Library
LOUIS XIV                                                                             who continued to build according           PASCAL COUPOT 7
                                            has a formidable collection.              to his plans. From 1674 to 1688,
(1638–1715)                                                                                                                      Born in 1960 in Haute-Saône
In 1674, Louis XIV conquered Besançon                                                 he continued building and reinforcing      (Franche-Comté), Coupot followed
                                            PIERRE-JOSEPH PROUDHON 4                  the Citadel. From 1689 to 1695,
for the second and final time.                                                                                                   artistic training at the Regional College
It remained the capital of the province.    (1809–1865)                               he reinforced Fort Griffon, Besançon’s     of Fine Arts in Besançon. He describes
On June 16th, 1683, he, Queen Maria         Born on January15th, 1809 in Besançon     “second Citadel”, and rebuilt strong       himself as largely self-taught.
Theresa and the dauphin arrived             at No. 23, rue du Petit-Battant,          defensive bastions around the Loop.
in the city and spent several days with     Pierre-Joseph Proudhon was the author     As garrison for the troops, barracks
the governor at Granvelle Palace.           of internationally recognised socialist   were built: another innovative idea.
                                            theories. A sculpture honouring him
                                            stands in Sarrail Square. His letters
                                            are archived at the Besançon Municipal
                                            Library.
                                                                                      “If Louis XlV had listened
                                                                                      to him, Vauban would
                                                                                      have in many ways
                                                                                      forestalled the Revolution.”
                                                                                      Adolphe Thiers, 2nd president of the French Republic

10                                                                                                                                                                     11
2021 TOURIST GUIDE BESANÇON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - www.besancon-tourisme.com
4

1                     2                            3                                                                             5

LOUIS PASTEUR 1
(1822–1895)
                                           ARCHITECTS                                  CLAUDE-NICOLAS LEDOUX
                                                                                       (1736–1806)
                                                                                                                                     KENGO KUMA 5
                                                                                                                                     Born in 1954 in Japan, Kuma
Born in Dole, Pasteur spent his            RENÉ TOURNIER 3                             A visionary architect from the Age            is a world-renowned architect.
childhood in Arbois. While he studied      (1899–1977)                                 of Enlightenment, Ledoux’s work               His goal in his structures is to
in Besançon for his baccalaureates,        Tournier came from the Jura,                was the precursor to functional               reinterpret Japanese tradition
he worked as a teaching assistant          and was an architect for civilian           architecture. He designed                     in 21st century terms, putting nature
at the Royal Grammar School (today,        buildings and historic monuments,           the Municipal Theatre, built between          at the centre of his works. He designed
the Victor Hugo Secondary School,          an art historian and writer. He came        1778 and 1784 by Claude-Joseph                and built the Centre of the Arts,
8, rue du Lycée) from 1839–1842.           to Besançon in the 1930s after getting      Bertrand. It was a totally new concept        inaugurated in 2013.
He was very interested in drawing          his diploma from the College of Fine        of design for the times. Ledoux created
with pastels and did the portrait          Arts in Paris. In 1929, he won              the auditorium in the form of
of the head teacher. You can see           the competition for the university halls    an amphitheatre, got rid of the boxes,
a trompe-l’œil of him on one               of residence which line Vieil Picard        gave the parterre audience seats and
of the houses on Pasteur Square            Quai: one of the first in France. He also   created the first orchestra pit in
(No. 5). Jean-Joseph, his father, born                                                 the world, a century before Bayreuth.
at No. 53, rue d’Arènes in Besançon,
was a tanner. (The house was rebuilt
                                           designed the Notre-Dame Liberation
                                           Monument at la Chapelle des Buis,           The auditorium was destroyed by fire
                                                                                       in 1958, and it was renovated in 1994
                                                                                                                                     “Architecture
in the 19th century). Pasteur’s
birthplace in Dole and his home
                                           a village which overlooks Besançon.
                                                                                       in a contemporary style. He also
                                                                                       designed the Royal Saltworks
                                                                                                                                     is to masonry
and laboratory in Arbois are open
to the public.
                                           MICHEL DEMENGE
                                           Demenge is an architect from
                                                                                       at Arc-et-Senans.
                                                                                                                                     what poetry
CLAUDE FRANÇOIS
                                           Besançon: he designed the former
                                           Besançon Visitor and Convention
                                                                                       HUGUES SAMBIN 4
                                                                                       (ca 1520–1601)
                                                                                                                                     is to literature.”
                                           Information Centre, situated in Micaud
DOROTHÉE, MARQUIS                          Park. The building is integrated            Born in Gray, Sambin was                      Claude-Nicolas Ledoux
DE JOUFFROY D’ABBANS 2                     seamlessly into the park and melts into     a Renaissance man; he was
(1751–1832)                                the greenery because of its lightness       an architect, decorator, carpenter,
 The Marquis Jouffroy d’Abbans             and transparency.                           engineer and designer. He designed
was a naval engineer who built the first                                               the facade of the former Town Hall,
steamboat, using the improved                                                          which is today the Courthouse.
steam-driven machine by James Watt.
His Pyroscaphe sailed on the Doubs
in 1776. There are 2 statues erected
to his memory: one on the Helvétie
Promenade and the other at the Battant
Bridge, cast in bronze in 1998 by
Pascal Coupot.

12                                                                                                                                                                       13
2021 TOURIST GUIDE BESANÇON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - www.besancon-tourisme.com
BESANÇON
CULTURAL HERITAGE
                                                                                     5

                                                                                                            6                             8

1                    2                                  3          4                                        7                             9

FROM VESONTIO                             IDEAS AND MEN                              ARCHITECTURAL                              OUT-OF-THE-ORDINARY
TO BESANÇON                               THEY MADE FILMS!                           ORIGINALS                                  THINGS
                                          Auguste and Louis Lumière 1,               OUTSIDE STAIRCASES 5                       THE MOST COMPLEX WATCH
A historically fascinating city,          physicists and DIY enthusiasts,
Besançon is on the UNESCO                                                            All the courtyards in the old town         IN THE WORLD 8
                                          filed more than 193 patents.               have one! Spiral or straight flight,
World Heritage List because               They were born in Besançon, in Victor                                                 This watch, the Leroy 01,
                                                                                     these staircases are mostly in stone,      manufactured between 1900 and 1904,
of its Vauban fortifications.             Hugo Square; they are the inventors        decorated with wrought iron
                                          of cinematography and made significant                                                is one of the jewels of the collection
Located in an exceptional natural                                                    to the first floor and then wood           at the Museum of Time. It is a showcase
setting, Besançon has a rich              contributions to the development           balusters for the upper rental floors.
                                          of photography.                                                                       of mechanical knowledge: it performs
and diverse past.                                                                    The outside stairs in the inner            24 complications besides indicating
                                                                                     courtyards are specific to the urban       the seconds (as a unity of measure):
A proud city of a Gallic people, the      FRENCH LITERATURE                          architecture of Besançon.                  a record that is still unbeaten!
Sequanes, it became Gallo-Roman           CHANGED FOREVER
under Julius Caesar, and was, for         Besançon, capital of Franche-Comté,        TIME AND SUNDIALS 6                        TELL TIME DIFFERENTLY
a long time, a free and imperial city,    is proud to be the birthplace              In the City of Time, many building         AT SAINT MADELEINE’S CHURCH 9
functioning as a small republic. After    of Victor Hugo 2 (1802-1885). Hugo         facades are decorated by sundials.
it was conquered by Louis XIV, Vauban     was a playwright, poet, writer and                                                    This church, a splendid example
                                                                                     These sundials show the sun’s              of the beauty of Neo-classical
constructed strong defensive bastions     intellectual. Through his personal life,   movements in the morning
on its high, surrounding hills, making    by the quality of his work, his fight                                                 architecture, has an astonishing
                                                                                     or the afternoon and are perfect           sundial, which is a large noon mark
it impregnable. It became the new         against poverty and commitment             examples of the rigorous expertise
capital of Franche-Comté.                 to the freedom of mankind, Hugo                                                       sundial whose hour lines are carved
                                                                                     of the artisans who created them.          into the paving stones in the church.
                                          brought French literature to its apogee.
Here, history greets you at every         In Besançon, two schools are named         THAT PALE BLUE-BEIGE
turn on your walks, and Gallo-Roman       after him and there are two statues
archaeological remains, Renaissance
palaces, bastioned fortifications and
                                          which pay him homage.                      LOCAL STONE 7
                                                                                     The city centre owes its sense
                                                                                                                                “Plût à Dieu”
private mansions with classical facades   STEAMBOATS                                 of harmony to both its architectural
prepare to delight you.
                                          The Marquis Jouffroy d’Abbans 3
                                                                                     unity and to the stone used for its        THE MOTTO OF BESANÇON
                                                                                     buildings. This stone, called Chailluz
                                          was a naval architect and engineer,                                                   Or UTINAM (in Latin) is the official
Besançon is also the birthplace of                                                   stone (from the old quarries in Chailluz
                                          and constructed the first steamboats.                                                 motto of Besançon. It was a favorite
many writers, artists and philosophers.                                              Forest) is a limestone of blue
                                                                                                                                expression of Holy Roman Emperor
Victor Hugo, Charles Nodier,                                                         and ocher tones, lending a soft light
                                          SOCIOLOGY AT WORK                                                                     Charles V, and it means “God Willing”.
Auguste and Louis Lumière,                                                           to the old town.
                                                                                                                                It is carved above the fountain at Jean
and Pierre-Joseph Proudhon have           Pierre-Joseph Proudhon 4,
                                                                                                                                Cornet Square.
contributed strikingly to the prestige    philosopher and sociologist, was born
of Besançon.                              in Besançon. He is one of the main
                                          theorists of French socialism and
                                          was the father of the Mutualist
                                          Movement and a pacifist. He was an
                                          activist for social revolution through
                                          peaceful means and not class struggle,
                                          putting him in opposition
                                          with Karl Marx.

14                                                                                                                                                                      15
2021 TOURIST GUIDE BESANÇON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - www.besancon-tourisme.com
BESANÇON                                                                                                                        1 TOUR NOTRE-DAME
                                                                                                                                  Notre Dame Tower - This mediaeval
                                                                                                                                                                              10 TOUR BASTIONNÉE DE RIVOTTE
                                                                                                                                                                              Rivotte Bastioned Tower - At one time,
  VAUBAN                                                                                                                          tower was part of the fortified entryway
                                                                                                                                  called Notre Dame Gate. It allowed
                                                                                                                                                                              it was connected to the Rivotte Gate
                                                                                                                                                                              by a defensive wall with a gun gallery
                                                                                                                                  access to Besançon from the South.          to defend the perimeters of the gate.
                                                                                                                                  Vauban had the gate dismantled
  Besançon was established                                                                                                        and then had it rebuilt nearer the bank     11 PORTE RIVOTTE
  on an exceptional site that has marked                                                                                          of the Doubs, adding a bastion in 1691.     Rivotte Gate - This is one of the gates
  its destiny. The old town nestles                                                                                                                                           into the old town of Besançon.
                                                                                                                                  2 BASTION DE LA VILLE                       It dates from medieval times and
  in a loop of the Doubs River,
                                                                                                                                  City Bastion - This defence structure       had a drawbridge to guard the road
  surrounded by hills and dominated
                                                                                                                                  once encircled the old mill.                to Switzerland via Pontarlier. It was
  by the rocky outcrop upon which                                                                                                                                             renovated in 1546 under Emperor
  stands the impressive citadel,                                                                                                  3 TOUR BASTIONNÉE DE CHAMARS                Charles V, and other changes were made
  designed by Sébastien Le Prestre,                                                                                               Chamars Bastioned Tower -                   in the 17th century. Vauban reworked
  Maréchal de Vauban.                                                                                                             This bastioned tower was built by           the central portion, giving it a protruding
                                                                                                                                  Vauban between 1688 and 1695 and,           avant-corps. On the upper part,
                                                                                                                                  except for some modifications made          you can see the coat of arms of France,
                                                                                                                                  around 1840, is still largely intact.       with the Royal Sun symbol above it.

                                                                                                                                  4 TOUR DU MARAIS                            12 PORTE TAILLÉE
                                                                                                                                  Marais Tower - In the 19th century,         The Stone-cut Gate - This gate dates
  A NETWORK                                                                         In 2008, Besançon, along with
                                                                                    the 11 other network member cities,           an extension to the Tower was removed       from medieval times. The tower was
  OF MAJOR VAUBAN                                                                   became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
                                                                                    There are, in all, 18 key fortification
                                                                                                                                  and an outside staircase was added.         redesigned by Charles V and again in
                                                                                                                                                                              the 17th century by Vauban, who added
  SITES                                                                             sites in Besançon.                            5 BASTION DE L’ARCHEVÊQUE                   a guardhouse. Modifications made
                                                                                                                                                                              in the 19th century can be seen in
                                                                                                                                  The Archbishop’s Bastion -
                                                                                                                                                                              the passage above the vault when
                                                                                                                                  This bastion encircled the mill
                                                                                                                                                                              you come from the South.
                                                                                                                                  belonging to the Archbishop
                                               GARE                                                                               of Besançon until the 18th century.
                                               SNCF
                                                                                                                                                                              13 + 14 FORTIFICATIONS
                                                                                                                                  6 TOUR DES CORDELIERS                       DE BATTANT
                                                                                                                                  Cordeliers Tower - In the 19th century,     Battant Fortifications - The Arenas
                                                                                                                                  a part of the tower was removed             and Charmont Gates, which
                                  16                                                                                              and an outside staircase was added.         were identical, no longer exist. Only
                                               17                                                                                                                             the guardhouses remain on either side.
                                                                                                   ue

                                 15                                                                                               7 QUAI VAUBAN
                                                                                                 bliq

                                                         18
                                                                                               épu

                                                                                                                                  Vauban Embankment - Designed
                                                                                                                                                                              15 FORT GRIFFON
                                                                                            la R

      13
                                         t
                                       attan

                                                                                                                                                                              Built by Vauban between 1680 and 1695,
                                                                                          t de

                                                                                                                                  by the engineer Robelin, the Quai
                                      Rue B

                                                                                         Pon

                                                                                                                                  Vauban was built between 1690               it is the second citadel of Besançon.
       au
      nce

                                                                                                                                  and 1695. Its only defence structures       It protected the area outside the city
                                                     7                                                      8
    me

                                                                                           Av
                                                                               e

                                                                                               .A

                                                                                                                                                                              walls and watched over the newly
                                                                               qu
 Clé

                                                                                                                                  are at its ends: the Cordeliers, Poitune,
                                                                                                 rth
                                                                          bli

            14
                                                                                                   ur
                                                                       pu
Av.

                             es

                                                                                                                                                                              conquered city.
                                                                     Ré

                                                                                                       Ga
                           èn

                                                                                                                                  the Holy Spirit casemates. The Battant
                                                                                                        ul
                                                                    la
                             r
                          ’A

                                                                                                        ar
                                                               de
                     ed

                                                                                                            d
                                                                       Ru

                                                                                                                                  casemate no longer exists.
                                                           e
                     Ru

                                                         Ru

                                                                         e
                                                                          de

                                                                                                                  9                                                           16 PORTE BATTANT
                                                                               sG

                                                                                                                                  This harmonious architectural ensemble,
                                                                                ra
                                                                                    ng
                                                               Gr

                                                    HÔTEL                                                                         set back from the embankment,               Battant Gate - This gate was demolished
                                                                                     es
                                                                  a nd

                                                   DE VILLE
                                                                       e

                                                                                                                                  was what Jean-Jacques Rousseau saw          in 1872 and rebuilt in 1873 with two
                                                                         Ru

                                  6
                                                                           e
                                                   Ru

                                                                                                                                  in 1733 when he came to Besançon.           entries and a new guardhouse. In 1957
                                                    e
                                                     Mé

                                                                                                                                                                              it was demolished, but the guardhouse
                                                        gev
                                                             an

                                                                                                                        10
                                                              d

                                                                                                                                  8 BASTION DU MOULIN SAINT-PAUL              is still there.
                 5                                                                                                 11             Saint Paul’s Mill Bastion -
      LA CITY
                                                    Ru
                                                        eC
                                                                                                                                  This bastion originally encircled a mill    17 BASTION DE BATTANT
                                                          ha
                                                              rle                                                                 belonging to Saint Paul’s Abbey             Battant Bastion - This bastion is intact.
                                                                  sN
                 4                                                   od
                                                                         ier                                                      and in the 19th century it was leased to    Montmart Tower was built in medieval
                                                                                                                                  a professional miller who supplied          times and was kept by Vauban
                             3                 2                                                                                  the garrison with bread.                    and used as a powder magazine.
                                                                                     1                          CITADELLE
                                                                                                                                  9 TOUR BASTIONNÉE DE BREGILLE               18 TOUR DE LA PELOTE
                                                                                                                             12   Bregille Bastioned Tower -                  Pelote Tower - Vauban kept this
                                                                                                                                  In the 19th century, one part was           medieval tower; he built a bastion
                                                                                                                                  removed; in the early 20th century          around it, defending the eastern end
                                                                                                                                  it became a dovecote for the military.      of the fortification.

  16                                                                                                                                                                                                                 17
2021 TOURIST GUIDE BESANÇON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS - www.besancon-tourisme.com
BESANÇON
CITADEL

                                                                                                                                            JARDIN ZOOLOGIQUE

                                                                                MULTIMEDIA                              CHOOSE YOUR TOUR…
                                                                                IMMERSION SHOW
                                                                                                                        The Citadel offers a number
                                                                                Experience a total immersion
                                                                                                                        of different tours, depending on what
                                                                                into the past. This show takes
                                                                                                                        you want to see and the time you have
                                                                                you through time and space
                                                                                                                        available. Unguided tour (explore
                                                                                to explore the moments that
                                                                                                                        the site, the museums and animal areas
                                                                                have marked the history
                                                                                                                        on your own). Actor-accompanied
                                                                                of Besançon and the Citadel.
                                                                                                                        tour (An actor will accompany you,
                                                                                                                        combining performance with history).
                                                                                It is all in Saint Stephen’s Chapel
                                                                                                                        Interactive tours (accompanied
                                                                                at the Citadel, where the walls,
                                                                                                                        by a multilingual audioguide (French/
                                                                                the chancel and the vaulted ceiling
                                                                                                                        English/German). Guided tour
                                                                                become huge expanses of historical
                                                                                                                        (French/English/German). Children’s
                                                                                image and sound: exciting episodes
                                                                                                                        tour (a booklet for children provided
                                                                                of history are related for your eyes
                                                                                                                        for the 7-11 year-olds).
                                                                                and ears. In 15 minutes, experience
                                                                                key events of the Citadel’s past
                                                                                                                        Let the app Ma Citadelle
                                                                                that will make the rest of your visit
                                                                                                                        (6 languages :(F/E/G/I/S/D) be your
                                                                                that much richer.
                                                                                                                        guide as you discover the Citadel. It’s
                                                                                                                        interactive and fun! Circuit around the
                                                                                MUSEUM
VAUBAN                                 Besides the beautifully restored
                                       architectural ensemble of 11 hectares,   The museum demonstrates biodiversity
                                                                                                                        Museum and investigation game for
                                                                                                                        family tours.
FORTIFICATIONS:                        the Citadel is home to three Museums
                                       of France, all of which offer exciting
                                                                                and helps preserve endangered species
                                                                                in its Zoological Garden, Aquarium,
UNESCO WORLD                           tours.                                   Insectarium, Noctarium and a small      A REALLY
HERITAGE SITE                                                                   farm. Nowhere else in France can you    DIFFERENT TOUR
                                                                                find a place with so many species of
                                                                                animals on the same site.               Guided tour only.
One visit won’t be enough!             GPS N 47°13°55” E 6°1’54”                                                        Go into one of the Citadel tunnels,
                                       Tel 03 81 87 83 33                                                               dug into the earth, that was used
The Besançon Citadel, a Vauban                                                  MUSEUM OF FRANCHE-COMTÉ
                                       www.citadelle.com                                                                for troop movement within the Citadel;
masterpiece, is one of the most                                                 This museum is all about Franche-       it was especially useful for protection
                                                                                Comté. You will see exhibits on many    during an attack.
beautiful citadels in France.
                                                                                of its traditions (clothing, tools…).
Towering more than 100 metres                                                                                           PLAYS, CONCERTS,
over the old town which is enclosed                                             THE RESISTANCE
in the loop of the Doubs River,                                                 AND DEPORTATION MUSEUM                  EXHIBITIONS, SHOWS...
it offers spectacular panoramas                                                 The Museum is closed for renovation.    The Citadel is a place where culture
from its ramparts. The Citadel
                                                                                                                        comes alive. All year long, things
is an important cultural and tourist
                                                                                                                        are happening!
centre and it makes heritage come
alive for all who visit.                                                                                                For more details, visit
                                                                                                                        www.citadelle.com

18                                                                                                                                                             19
BESANÇON
                                                                                  THE GAULS
                                                                                  AND THE ROMANS

                                                                                                                                                     THE BLACK GATE

CITADEL                                    OPENING PERIODS
                                           Annual closure from Monday,
                                                                                  PORTE NOIRE                                 GALLO-ROMAN
Recommended length of visit                January 1st to Friday, February 5th    The Black Gate                              MOSAICS
at the Citadel: at least one half-day      2021
on your own, and at least 2 hours for      From February to December, every       This Roman triumphal arch was               Julius Caesar wrote of Besançon
a Discovery Day.                           day except 25 Dec., 1st Jan.           erected around 175 CE, during               (Vesontio in those days) in his
                                                                                                                              “Commentary on the Gallic War”,
                                                                                  the reign of Marcus Aurelius,
ACCESS                                     OPENING HOURS                                                                      calling it “oppidum Sequani” (town
                                           Low season from February 6th to        at the southern entrance to the city,       of the Sequanes). His strategist’s
From the Besançon city centre.
Park your car in the city-centre at        March 27th and from October 31st       where the road from Italy became            mentality was attracted to the site
Chamars car park and from there, take      to December 31st : 10 am – 5 pm        a major north-south crossroads.             where the Sequanes had built their town
the bus marked Chamars-Citadelle.                                                 The original architecture and               for its superior strategic possibilities.
                                           Middle season from March 28th to                                                   The town, protected by its ramparts,
                                                                                  sculptures are basically intact.
                                           July 2nd and from August 30th to                                                   occupied the entire loop where
      +                                    October 30th : 9 am – 6 pm                                                         neighbourhoods were set up. Its streets
                                                                                  Its proportions were uncommonly high.
Bus line Chamars-Citadelle daily from      High season from July 3rd to           It has lost 3 metres in height, since its   were lined with wood frame buildings.
April to October                           August 29th : 9 am – 7 pm              foundation is buried more than a metre
For more information                                                              underneath the modern road, and             When Vesontio became an
www.ginko.voyage                           PRICES                                 its attic, which supported the imperial     administrative town under Roman rule,
                                           Adults 10,90 €                         statue at the top, is missing.              it changed. Affluent neighbourhoods
                                           Adults during Low season: 8.80€        In Roman times, the arch stood on           and open squares were marked by
                                           Students, apprentices, job seekers     its own, and its short sides, now hidden    masonry architecture, richly decorated
Low season: Up near the Citadel            8,80 €                                 by the Archdiocese and the Rectorat         with sculptures, frescoes and mosaics.
Follow the “Citadelle” signs from the      Disabled and carer free entrance       (local education authority) were entirely   The mosaics were discovered by chance
city centre. There is a car park up near                                          decorated with images, such as those        during the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries;
the entrance. The number of places         Children:                              on the facades, drawn from mythology        today archaeological excavations
is very limited.                           Under 4 Free entrance                  and religion. There are only a few          are programmed whenever construction
                                           From 4 to 7 5,10 €                     scenes of war, which can be seen            requires digging.
                                           From 8 to 17 8,80 €                    in the passage. Thus the arch, a part
                                           Family day pass (2 adults              of local history, transmits a political     The mosaics discovered over the last
                                           + any number of children) = 33 €       message via philosophy and the analogy      30 years have been restored, and either
Board the Little Tourist Train in the
Rivotte quartier! On your way to the                                              made between the worlds of the gods         preserved in museums or replaced at,
Citadel, you’ll go through the                                                    and human beings.                           or nearby, the site where they were
city-centre: the commentary will give                                                                                         discovered. If you go to the corner
you a glimpse into Besançon’s history.     EATING FACILITIES                      At the time of the Later Roman Empire,      of the rue d’Alsace and rue de Lorraine,
                                           Brasserie-restaurant ‘Le Grand         when danger threatened and inhabitants      you will see a beautiful mosaic under
For more information                       Couvert’ and snack bar ‘La Taverne’:   had to flee to the slopes of the hill,      glass in front of the Lumière Middle
www.citadelle.com                          open seasonally. Please contact        the arch became a town gate, defending      School, right in the heart of Besançon!
www.besancon-tourisme.com                  beforehand.                            the town. Neglected for centuries,          It has a geometric design and dates
www.bateau-besancon.fr                                                            the arch was saved from destruction         from the 2nd century CE.
                                                                                  by P. Marnotte in the 19th century.
                                                                                  Thanks to its recent restoration,
                                                                                  its original elegance can be appreciated
                                                                                  once more.

20                                                                                                                                                                  21
BESANÇON
MUSEUMS

                                                                                                                                             MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND
                                                                                                                                                        ARCHAEOLOGY

BIRTHPLACE                                  OPENING HOURS
                                            Every day except on Tues.
                                                                                    MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS                          MUSEUM OF TIME
OF VICTOR HUGO                              From the 1st Apr. to the 31th           AND ARCHAEOLOGY                              Granvelle Palace is a beautiful example
                                            of Oct. 10.30 am to 6 pm                                                             of Renaissance architecture in
The house where Victor Hugo                 From the 2nd of Nov. to the 31st        After a four-year closing to carry out
                                                                                                                                 Franche-Comté. It was restored
was born is on the same square              of March 10.30 am to 5.30 pm            renovation work, the Besançon
                                                                                                                                 (1988-2002) so that it could house
                                            During school holidays and              Museum has reopened its doors in the
where Charles Nodier and                                                            heart of the city.
                                                                                                                                 the Museum o Time, which
the Lumière brothers were born              on the week-end 10.30 to 6 pm                                                        combines Besançon history, science
                                            Closed 1st Jan., 1st May, 1st Nov.,     The expanded spaces, new showcasing
and where Gustave Courbet lived.                                                                                                 and clockmaking. Time, which
                                            25 Dec.                                 of two existing architectures (Pierre
                                                                                                                                 encompasses history and clockmaking,
Its doors were opened                                                               Marnotte, 1842 and Louis Miquel, 1970)
                                                                                                                                 is the link that connects the rooms on
to the public in 2013.                      PRICES                                  and importance given to incoming
                                                                                                                                 your tour. From the collection of Abbot
                                            Full price 2,50 €                       daylight by the firm Architectures A.
                                                                                                                                 Boisot in the 17th century, to the
Hugo’s battles and his commitments          Reduced price 1,50 €                    Scaranello, offer visitors the opportunity
                                                                                                                                 historical one of time measurement
come alive through sets designed with       Free entrance under 18 years            to truly rediscover the site and its
                                                                                                                                 objects, to the collections of clocks
the latest technology. No. 140, Grande      and every Sunday and bank holidays      collections.
                                                                                                                                 reflecting Besançon as the capital
Rue is the place to learn about and         for all the visitors.                   Part of the French and international
                                                                                                                                 of watchmaking… your tour presents
reflect upon the extraordinary heritage,                                            cultural landscape, the oldest public
                                            Guided tours with audio guide are                                                    time from the broadest sense,
both literary and political, that he left                                           collection in France, born in 1694, can
                                            available (in French, English and                                                    to its most technical and scientific, to its
for us. Objets d’art, some of them                                                  take pride in the breath and depth of
                                            German).                                                                             most universal and poetical.
major, and some that belonged to him,                                               its collections. In addition to the
are also on display. Ten years after                                                international renown of its European         OPENING HOURS
                                            Combined tickets with the Museum
the celebration of the bicentenary                                                  graphic arts collection (more than 6,000     Every day except on Mon.
                                            of Fine Arts and Archaeology:
of his birth, the City of Besançon                                                  drawings), it also boasts significant        From 2nd. Nov to 31st March
                                            Full price 8 €
now has a ​​permanent tribute                                                       archaeological holdings (Egyptian,           (except during school holidays):
                                            Reduced price 4 €
to Victor Hugo.                                                                     Mediterranean and regional                   from Tues. to Fri. from 2 to 6 pm
                                            Obtained the «Qualité Tourisme» label   collections), numerous sculptures,           From 1st. April to 31st October, and
For more information                                                                ceramics, goldsmiths’ pieces and an
Maison Victor Hugo                                                                                                               during school holidays: from
                                                                                    exceptional collection of paintings          Tuesday to Friday from 10 to 12:30
140, Grande Rue                                                                     representative of the main currents of
maisonvictorhugo.besancon.fr                                                                                                     am and from 2 to 6 pm.
                                                                                    Western art history from the end of the      All year on Saturdays and Sundays
                                                                                    15th to the 20th century.                    from 10 am to 6 pm.
                                                                                                                                 Closed 1st Jan., 1st May, 1st Nov., 25 Dec.
                                                                                    OPENING HOURS
                                                                                    From 2nd. Nov to 31st March (except          PRICES
                                                                                    during school holidays): Mon., Wed.,         Combined tickets with the Museum of
                                                                                    Thu., Fri. from 2 pm to 6 pm                 Fine Arts and Archaeology
                                                                                    From 1st. April to 31st October, Wed.,       Full price 8 €
                                                                                    Thu. Fri., 10 am to 12:30 and 2 pm to        Reduced price 4 €
                                                                                    6 pm.                                        Free entrance on first Sun. of the
                                                                                    Every day except on Tues.                    month.
                                                                                    All year on Saturdays and Sundays            Free guided tour every Sun. at 3 pm
                                                                                    from 10 am to 6 pm.
                                                                                                                                 Palais Granvelle - 96, Grande Rue
                                                                                    For more information                         www.mdt.besancon.fr
                                                                                    1, place de la Révolution
                                                                                    www.mbaa.besancon.fr
22                                                                                                                                                                        23
BESANÇON
                                                                                                          AS TIME GOES BY

                                                                                                          1                         2                               3

                                                                                         @ C. Monterlos
                                                                           THE FRAC

THE FRAC                                    ARCHITECTURAL                                                 THE ASTRONOMICAL                             BESANCON
The Franche-Comté FRAC is a unique          AND HERITAGE                                                  CLOCK AND SAINT                              OBSERVATORY 2
venue created to introduce audiences
to contemporary artistic creation. It is    INTERPRETATION                                                JOHN’S CATHEDRAL 1                           The observatory opened
intended as a place where people from
all walks of life can meet and interact.
                                            CENTRE (CIAP)                                                 The Astronomical Clock was classified        on August 5th, 1885; it celebrated
                                                                                                                                                       its 130th anniversary in 2015.
                                                                                                          an historic monument in 1991. It was
The Frac is located in the Cité des Arts,   The CIAP’s purpose is to give                                 designed and built (1858 to 1860)
a building created by architect Kengo       Besançon residents and visitors                               by the master watchmaker, Auguste-           It was originally designed to be a
Kuma, with the agency Archidev              an understanding and appreciation                             Lucien Vérité.                               chronometric, astronomical and
(Hervé Limousin and Séverine Fagnoni)       of the heritage and identity of the city                      It has its own special room in the lower     weather observatory. Adapting to the
and landscape architect Jean-Marc           (its urban changes, its history,                              part of St. John’s bell tower, and one       times, chronometry gave way to
L’Anton. The building, with its             its people, its architectural features...)                    of its functions is to operate the outside   time-frequency analysis and astronomy
personable feel and soft, luminous          There is a permanent exhibition at the                        and inside clocks of the cathedral           to astrophysics. The observatory and
aesthetic, was designed to facilitate       Town Hall. Discover the architecture                          and those in 2 Comtois bell towers.          its grounds were classified as an
visitors’ first experience of the works,    and heritage of Besançon.                                     The upper part of the clock displays         historical monument on 3 May 2012.
as they amble through the spaces. They      Watch some films on the history, from                         automatons. They come alive every
are offered an ever-changing range of       the times of the Gauls and the Romans                         hour and perform scenes inspired
programming, with an ambitious mix          until today.
                                                                                                                                                       GUIDED TOURS ONLY
                                                                                                          by the Catholic Bible.                       Besançon Visitor and Convention
of temporary exhibitions and
                                                                                                                                                       Information Centre
multidisciplinary cultural offers.
                                                                                                          OPENING HOURS                                www.besancon-tourisme.com
The programming is built around the                                                                       Every day except on Tues.
Frac’s collections, rich with 626 works
by 316 artists, giving prime status since
                                                                                                          from the 1st Apr. to 30 Sep.
                                                                                                          Every day except on Tues. and Wed.
                                                                                                                                                       SUNDIALS 3
2006 to works that take on the vast                                                                       from the 1st Oct. to 31 March                “The sun lies; the clock tells
question of Time, an issue chosen for                                                                     Closed during Jan., 1st May, 1st and         the truth” was the watchmakers’
its permanence in the history of art, its                                                                 11 Nov., 25 Dec.                             motto. The Besançon sundials
latest news and its anchoring in                                                                          Guided tour 9:50 am, 10:50 am, :
                                                                                                                                                       testify to this.
regional history.                                                                                         11:50 am, 1:50 pm, 2:50 pm, 3:50 pm

                                                                                                          PRICES                                       The vertical noon mark sundial
                                                                                                          Full price 3,50 €                            at the Town Hall, made in 1786,
OPENING HOURS                                                                                                                                          uses the sun’s movement in
Closed on Mon. and thu.                                                                                   Reduced price 3,30 €
                                                                                                          Free under 18 years and for persons          the morning. It is a perforated disc
From Wed. to Fri. 2 pm to 6 pm                                                                                                                         supported by three legs, and it gives
On Sat. and Sun. 2 pm to 7 pm                                                                             from UE, disabled, on each first Sunday
                                                                                                          of the month.                                the local time according to the sun
Closed 1st Jan., 1st May, 24, 25 and                                                                                                                   from 10.00 am to 12.30 pm. Sundials
31 Dec. and during the (dis)assembly                                                                                                                   often have sayings engraved on them,
of exhibitions                                                                                                                                         which give food for thought.
                                                                                                          GPS N 47°14.016’ E 006°01.849’               Something functional has
PRICES
                                                                                                          St. John’s Cathedral - Rue du Chapitre       a philosophical or moral message.
Full price 4 €
                                                                                                          www.horloge-astronomique-besancon.fr         “Gaudium et luctum fero”
Reduced Price 2 €
                                                                                                                                                       (I bring joy and pain), the inscription
Free under 18 years and on Sunday
                                                                                                                                                       on this sundial, is a good example.

24                                                                                                                                                                                           25
BESANÇON
RELIGIOUS HERITAGE

                                                            OUR LADY OF REFUGE                                                                               SAINT JOHN’S
                                                                        CHAPEL                                                                                CATHEDRAL

ÉGLISE SAINT-PIERRE                        CHAPELLE NOTRE-DAME                         CATHÉDRALE SAINT-JEAN                       SYNAGOGUE
Saint Peter’s Church                       DU REFUGE                                   Saint John’s Cathedral                      Quai de Strasbourg
Place du 8 Septembre                       Our Lady of Refuge Chapel                   10, rue de la Convention                    Of all the synagogues built in the east
In 1780 the architect C.J. Bertrand        18, rue de l’Orme de Chamars                Construction was begun in the 12th          of France under the Second Empire,
presented the plans for a new church       The chapel, begun in 1739 and               century (the pillars and large              this is one of the most markedly
in a royal square in the heart             completed in 1745, is the work of           Romanesque arches of the nave) and          influenced by the Middle Eastern style
of the city. The church, in the shape      the Besançon architect Nicolas Nicole.      completed in the 13th century               of architecture.
of a Greek cross, was built between        It was initially part of the Convent        (cross-ribbed vaults), according to an
1782 and 1786. The French Revolution       of Refuge and was annexed                   unusual plan, which featured two            GALERIE DU SAINT-ESPRIT
interrupted the completion                 to St. Jacques Hospital in 1802.            opposing apses.                             Holy Spirit Gallery
of the project.                                                                                                                    1, rue Goudimel
                                           ÉGLISE DE LA MADELEINE                                                                  Established in Besançon in 1203,
                                           ET LE JACQUEMART                                                                        the Hospitaller Order of the Holy Spirit
The painting The Resurrection                                                                                                      began the construction of a chapel
                                           Saint Madeleine’s Church
of Lazarus by Martin de Vos,                                                                                                       and hospital buildings as of 1207,
                                           and the Jacquemart
1580, from the Granvelle collection,                                                                                               thanks to the generosity of Jean
                                           Rue de la Madeleine
and The Pieta, a group sculpted                                                                                                    de Montferrand. Their main mission
                                           (right bank of the Battant Bridge)
by Luc Breton, 1787.                                                                                                               was the reception and care of the sick,
                                           Saint Madeleine’s Church is the magnum
                                           opus of architect Nicolas Nicole.                                                       the poor, pilgrims and abandoned
BASILIQUE DES SAINT-FERRÉOL                Work on it began in 1746 and                                                            children. Over the centuries
ET SAINT-FERJEUX                           continued for the rest of the century.                                                  architectural changes were made
                                                                                       From the end of the 17th century            on the buildings and in the chapel,
Basilica                                   The two towers were completed in 1830.      until the Revolution, the Holy Shroud       and a tower was built in
Rue de la Basilique                        The church is divided into three naves,     of Besançon, a relic venerated
                                           harmoniously proportioned by paired                                                     the 15th century. Later, a gallery
The basilica, begun 1884 and finished                                                  throughout region, was kept in
                                           columns, standing on imposing                                                           was built, carved in wood. Its decor
in 1901, is the work of architect Alfred                                               the Holy Shroud apse. The decoration
                                           stylobates. The architectural unity                                                     is a harmonious blend of Mediaeval
Ducat, with the collaboration of artists                                               of the apse, baroque-inspired, is, today,
                                           makes this church a model of Neo-                                                       and Renaissance styles.
of the late 19th century. It contains                                                  the background for an iconographic
many Besançon and Franche-Comté            classical architecture.                     ensemble of paintings and sculptures,
works of art.                              A jacquemart is a special antique           representing the passion, death
                                           automaton sculpted in wood or metal         and resurrection of Jesus Christ.
                                           whose job is to tell the time by striking   There are paintings by J.F. Detroy,
                                           a bell with a hammer.                       Natoire and Vanloo, The Madonna
                                                                                       with Saints, a masterpiece of the Italian
                                                                                       Renaissance by the Florentine
                                                                                       Fra Bartolomeo (1512), and the tomb
                                                                                       of Ferry Carondelet (1543).

26                                                                                                                                                                      27
BESANÇON
ARCHITECTURE

                                                               COURTHOUSE                                                               THE CENTRE OF THE ARTS

                                                                                 CONTEMPORARY                              LA CITY
                                                                                                                           Rue Gabriel Plançon
                                                                                 ARCHITECTURE                              Both a business centre and
                                                                                                                           a communication hub, La City,
                                                                                 PALAIS DE JUSTICE                         designed by the architectural firm
                                                                                 The Courthouse                            Studio, symbolises Besançon’s
                                                                                 1, rue Mégevand                           commitment to state-of-the-art
                                                                                 The modern section of this courthouse     technologies.
                                                                                 was designed by Henri Gaudin.
                                                                                 The preserved old section, entrance       THE HISTORIC PAVILION OF THE
                                                                                 at Hugues Sambin Street, houses           CONVENTION AND TOURISM
                                                                                 the Court of Appeal.
                                                                                                                           BUREAU.
                                                                                                                           Place de la 1re Armée Française
                                                                                 IN MEMORIAM
                                                                                                                           The centre is located in Micaud Park,
                                                                                 Glacis Park                               and is the work of Besançon architect
                                                                                 The monument to the dead was moved        Michel Demenge. It is integrated
                                                                                 to Glacis Park where a new memorial       seamlessly into the park and melts into
                                                                                 site has been created that honours        the greenery because of its lightness
                                                                                 soldiers who died for France. We offer    and transparency.
                                                                                 a guided tour for the sculptures
                                                                                 from the old war memorial and
INTERIOR                            Buildings, mansions and rentals, were
                                    separated by courtyards or indoor            the contemporary creation by
                                                                                                                           LA RODIA
                                                                                                                           4, avenue de Chardonnet
COURTYARDS                          gardens. To gain space, the stairs were
                                    built outside, affixed to the party walls.
                                                                                 Ousmane Sow: Man and Child.
                                                                                                                           La Rodia, built on stilts, is located
AND SPLENDID                        Flights were coupled to serve two main       DELTA DU DOUBS                            near the city centre of Besançon.
                                                                                                                           It was designed by the architecture
STAIRCASES                          buildings. Most staircases were made
                                    of stone, and decorated with wrought
                                                                                 At the Neuchâtel Roundabout
                                                                                 and the Huddersfield-Kirklees
                                                                                                                           firm of Denu et Paradon.
                                    iron up to the first floor; wood             Roundabout (at each end
In the heart of the city,                                                                                                  THE CENTRE OF THE ARTS
                                    balusters were used for the upper            of the Citadel Tunnel), you can
mansions and bourgeois homes        rental floors. The outside stairs                                                      12, avenue Arthur Gaulard
                                                                                 see half of one huge sculpture.
line the main streets. The high     in the inner courtyards are distinctive                                                It was designed by the Japanese
                                                                                 Created by the artist François Morelet,
rocky crags of the Citadel          to the city centre of Besançon.              it was erected in 1996, to commemorate    architect Kengo Kuma, whose design
and the loop of the Doubs River                                                  the drilling of the tunnel under          symbolises “the place where nature
which surrounds the old town                                                     the Citadel.                              and the city meet, where inhabitants
were constraints the builders                                                                                              and river banks meet and where people
                                                                                                                           meet with culture in its multiple
of the past had to deal with.
                                                                                                                           forms.”
Building space was limited, which
is why the houses in Besançon
were built on narrow but long
parcels.

28                                                                                                                                                                 29
BESANÇON
                                                                                  FOUNTAINS
                                                                                  In 1559, the spring in the small          FONTAINE BACCHUS
                                                                                  Bregille valley was harnessed             Rue Battant
                                                                                  to feed six fountains in the heart        The very name of this fountain
                                                                                  of the city, and from 1560 to 1580,       commemorates not only the wine
                                                                                  the Franche-Comté sculptor                industry which existed in the Battant
                                                                                                                            section of Besançon, but also the
                                                                                  Claude Lullier, commissioned
                                                                                                                            existence of an old fountain decorated
                                                                                  by the city, decorated each               with a stone Bacchus, sculpted by
                                                                                  of them. In a niche, the Fontaine         Claude Lullier in 1579. Alphonse
                                                                                  des Carmes with its stone basin           Delacroix, a city architect, designed
                                                                                  embellished by a sculpted                 the present fountain in 1854. He also
                                                                                  Neptune astride a dolphin                 designed the impressive Arcier
                                                                                  is a testimonial to his talent.           aqueduct in 1850. To celebrate
MANSIONS                                HÔTEL GAUTHIOT D’ANCIER
                                        15, Grande Rue
                                                                                                                            the arrival of the water supply from
                                                                                                                            Arcier, the city voted to create three
                                                                                  FONTAINE DES DAMES                        new fountains, one of which was
“Hôtel particulier”, shortened          This mansion was built in the early
to “hôtel”, in this section,            16th century by Simon Gauthiot                                                      the Bacchus Fountain.
is a mansion.                           d’Ancier, co-governor of Besançon
                                        and rival of Nicolas de Granvelle.                                                  LE MINOTAURE
HÔTEL DU CHAMBRIER                      The facade on Grande Rue, with                                                      This modern fountain, The Minotaur,
11, rue de la Convention                its ogee-arched bay windows, is Late                                                built near the Robert Schwint Bridge,
This mansion, with a mediaeval past     Gothic. It was in this house that Simon                                             is right in the middle of the river. It was
and rebuilt in the 18th century         Gauthiot d’Ancier hosted the Supreme                                                designed by the Besançon artist Jens
by François Gaspard de Grammont,        Commander of the French Armies,                                                     Boettcher and is 7 m high, in bronze.
Bishop of Arethusa and suffragan        Charles III, Duke of Bourbon,                                                       Boettcher also designed the statue,
to the Archbishop of Besançon, today    who offered his services to the Holy      Fountain of the Ladies
                                                                                  Rue Charles Nodier                        La Source, which stands in the basin
houses the Regional Council.            Roman Emperor Charles V.                                                            of Saint Quentin’s Fountain.
                                                                                  This fountain, in its stone niche at
                                                                                  a corner of the Prefecture, was created
HÔTEL DU BOUTEILLER                     HÔTEL DE TERRIER-SANTANS                  in 1785 after the designs by architect    LA SOURCE
                                        68, Grande Rue                            Claude Joseph Bertrand. It was            This fountain is at Place Victor Hugo
2, rue des Granges
This mansion was built in 1582                                                    decorated by the sculptor Luc Breton.     (Victor Hugo Square): its background
by Claude de Jouffroy, Lord Marchaux.   HÔTEL DE COURBOUZON                       Against a background of stone, treated    and lighting enhance its presence.
Its facade is decorated similarly       20, rue Chifflet                          to resemble limestone formations,
to the Courthouse, built at the same                                              two intertwined dolphins support          L’ARROSEUR ARROSÉ
time. Some sentences engraved on        HÔTEL BOITOUSET                           a shell: a lovely setting for a little    The Tables Turned on the Gardener
the facade, such as “No opted laudari                                             bronze mermaid. Claude Lullier            or The Sprinkler Sprinkled
                                        5, rue de la Convention
sed factors laudanda” (Do not wish                                                sculpted the little mermaid, who first    Rue de la République,
                                        This mansion was built in the second
for praise: be worthy of it), convey                                              graced the courtyard of Granvelle         Centre Pierre Bayle
                                        half of the 18th century for Canon
philosophical or moralistic thoughts                                              Palace in the 16th century.               This sculpture, by Pascal Coupot,
                                        Boitouset, and is today the residence
of the humanism of the Renaissance.     of the Archbishop of Besançon.                                                      pays tribute to the Lumière brothers.
                                                                                  FONTAINE DE LA PLACE                      It depicts a scene from their film,
                                                                                  JEAN CORNET                               Tables Turned on the Gardener.
                                                                                  The Jean Cornet Square Fountain           It was the first fiction film
                                                                                  This monumental fountain, which           and what may be the first sight gag
                                                                                  is at an intersection, was sculpted       in cinema history.

“Do not wish
                                                                                  by Albert Pasche in 1900,
                                                                                  after the designs by the architect
                                                                                  E-B St. Ginest. It replaced a fountain

for praise:                                                                       which was built in 1740 and destroyed
                                                                                  during the Revolution. “Utinam”,
                                                                                  the inscription engraved under

be worthy of it.”                                                                 the pediment, is the motto of Besançon,
                                                                                  in Latin. On other monuments,
                                                                                  this motto appears in French “Plût
                                                                                  à dieu” (“God Willing”).

30                                                                                                                                                                  31
BESANÇON
THE DOUBS

                                                                                                                                 VEDETTES PANORAMIQUES DU SAUT DU DOUBS

Other ways to discover the charm of           BATEAU DE BESANÇON                         At Villers-le-Lac, visit the river
our city and our river: sightseeing boat      BOAT LE VAUBAN                             basins and the Falls of the Doubs             MONSIEUR CANAL
rides or small rental boats,                                                             River (le Saut du Doubs) by boat.             Lock 56 at Thoraise: a river tunnel
with or without a driver..., they will take                                                                                            with magical lightworks! Created
you, moving with the current,                                                            CNFS VEDETTES PANORAMIQUES                    by Jeppe Hein (artist) and Olivier
to a waterfall, a lock or a tunnel...                                                    DU SAUT DU DOUBS                              Vadrot (architect/design).
                                                                                         2, place Maxime Cupillard
VEDETTES DE BESANÇON                                                                     25130 Villers-le-Lac
BOAT LE BATTANT                                                                          www.vedettes-panoramiques.com

                                                                                         BATEAUX DU SAUT DU DOUBS
                                              Discover Besançon differently!             DROZ-BARTHOLET COMPANY
                                              Our boat, Le Vauban, takes you             Les Terres-rouges
                                              all around the Loop of the Doubs. You      25130 Villers-le-Lac
                                              pass through two locks and through         www.sautdudoubs.fr
                                              the impressive, 375-metre-long
                                              underground canal, dug under the           CNFS Vedettes Panoramiques
Take the Loop of the Doubs Cruise,            Citadel. From the boat, you have a         and Bateaux du Saut du Doubs
passing through locks and through             stunning view of the Vauban                provide cruises with and without
the Citadel Tunnel. Learn about Besançon      fortifications and the Citadel (both are   dinner on the Doubs River basins
during the live commentary. Length            on the UNESCO World Heritage List).        at Villers-le-Lac and include a visit
of tour: about 1 hour and 15 min.             Take Le Vauban for a dinner cruise, or     to the Falls. Reservations essential
Departure from the Pont                       as a venue for your corporate seminars,    for dinner cruises.
de la République (Republic Bridge)            weddings, parties with shows.

www.vedettesdebesancon.com                    Departure from the Pont
Christmas Cruise (reserve at the Visitor      de la République (Republic Bridge)
                                                                                                                                                                MONSIEUR
and Convention Information Centre).           info@visitezbesancon.com                                                                                             CANAL
                                              www.visitezbesancon.com

DEPARTURE TIMES
Daily in July and August: 10am,               DEPARTURE TIMES
11:15am*, 2:15pm, 3:30pm, 4:45pm              For individuals, scheduled departures
and 6pm**.                                    in season: for precise times, go to
From April to June, and from Sep.             visitezbesancon.com
to Oct., 2:15pm and 3:30pm                    For groups, daily (except in winter),
(+4.45pm on weekend and bank                  reservation necessary
holiday).
                                              PRICES
                                              Full price 13 €
PRICES                                        Children (from 4 to 16 years) 10 €
Full price 13 €                               Combined ticket
Children (from 4 to 16 years) 10 €            Boat + Little Tourist train 19,50 €
* cancellation in case of a meal cruise       and 14,50 € children
- updating on the website.
** only with reservation
32                                                                                                                                                                           33
GREATER BESANÇON                         THE CENTRE OF THE ARTS
                                         MARINA IN BESANÇON
RIVER PORT AND                           Flowing water marina
MARINAS: 3 SITES,                        20 moorings for boats up to 20 metres
                                         + 2 berths for big boats (passenger
75 MOORINGS                              boats, boat hotels... reservation
                                         required for boats over 20 metres long).
If you are transiting or want to rent    Facilities: floating pontoons for
a short- or long-term mooring at any     moorings, power and water hook-ups,
of the 3 marinas:                        a pump-out station, and a gangway to
Doubs Plaisance                          the dock for people with reduced
www.doubsplaisance.com                   mobility.
contact@doubsplaisance.com               Maximum Draught: 1.80 metres
0033 3 81 81 75 35                       Maximum Air Draught: 3.50 metres
                                         The marina accommodates vessels
ST. PAUL’S RIVER PORT                    for short-, medium- and long-term
AND MARINA IN BESANÇON                   mooring during the summer season.
Location: on St. Pierre’s Island         Because the marina is on flowing water,
(Ile Saint-Pierre) in the heart of       it is closed in winter. See St.Paul’s
Besançon. Open year-round. Harbour       Marina for winter moorings.
Master’s Office of Greater Besançon.
25 moorings for boats up to 14 metres.   PETROL PUMP                                DOUBS PLAISANCE                          RIVER CRUISES
                                                                                                                             Cruises organised for disabled adults
Facilities: reception office, showers
and toilets, floating pontoons for
                                         (diesel only)
                                         Call to 06 71 17 91 29
                                                                                    BOAT RENTALS                             (approved by Vacances Adaptées)
moorings, power and water hook-ups.      www.grandbesancon.fr/
                                                                                    ELECTRIC BOAT
Maximum Draught: 1.30 metres             portdagglomeration                                                                  OPENING TIMES
                                                                                    Electric boat rental: so you can see
Maximum Air Draught: 3.50 metres                                                                                             April to September
                                                                                    Besançon from the Doubs, safely
During the summer season, priority       DELUZ RIVER MARINA                                                                  www.grandbesancon.fr/
                                                                                    and at your own rhythm. Allow
is given to transiting boats.            Accommodates all types of boats                                                     portdagglomeration
                                                                                    2 hours for reception, getting settled
During the winter, medium- and           up to 15 metres long, 30 moorings.         in the boat and to tour the Loop.
long-term moorings available: location   Full-service marina (painting and          You will go through 2 locks
is well-protected from flooding.         mechanical service, winter berthing…)      at Tarragnoz and Moulin St Paul
                                         Facilities: floating pontoons for          (St. Paul’s Mill).
                                         moorings, power and water hook-ups,
                                         a pump-out station, access ramp,
                                         picnic tables.                             OPENING TIMES
                                                                                    15th April to 15th October

34                                                                                                                                                                   35
BESANÇON                                                                               CHATEAU DE MONCLEY
                                                                                       The château, a listed historical
                                                                                                                                     21 Avenue de la Résistance
                                                                                                                                     39800 POLIGNY
                                                                                                                                     +33 (0)3 84 37 78 40
THE SURROUNDING AREA                                                                   monument, is a prime example of French
                                                                                       neo-classical architecture.                   maisonducomte@comte.com
                                                                                       Far from the distractions of modern life,     www.maison-du-comte.com
MUSEUM                                       and its historic and pre-historic
                                             treasures make it one of the most         yet just 10 minutes from the Franche-
MAISONS COMTOISES DE NANCRAY                                                           Comté TGV station and 20 minutes from
                                             amazing caves in the world. It was also
                                             a place of celebration for Voltaire, a    Besançon, it is a unique and elegant
                                             place of worship under The Terror, a      venue for weddings, events or weekend         MUSEE DES ARMEES LUCIEN ROY
                                             historic monument, and a geological       breaks. Guided tours organised by the         Twelve rooms depicting the great
                                             gem that sheltered visitors from the      Besançon Tourist Office.                      imperial wars, the two world wars and
                                             summer heat.                                                                            the colonial wars. 250 uniformed
                                                                                       Route de Moncley                              models, along with weapons and
                                             42 route des Grottes                      25170 MONCLEY                                 ammunition, paint a picture of what
                                             25410 ROSET FLUANS                        +33 (0)3 81 80 92 55                          those wars were really like, and
                                             +33 (0)3 81 63 62 09                      chateaudemoncley@gmail.com                    illustrate the courage of those fighting
                                             grotte.osselle@yahoo.fr                   chateaudemoncley.fr                           for freedom.
AN OPEN-AIR MUSEUM AND
PARK UNLIKE ANY OTHER IN                     https://grotte-osselle.fr                                                               70 rue de Besançon
FRANCE! The Musée des Maisons                                                          CHÂTEAU DE VAIRE LE GRAND
                                                                                                                                     25720 BEURE
Comtoises is an ideal place to stroll and                                              This 18th-century château is famous for
                                                                                                                                     +33 (0)3 81 52 60 30
explore. Enjoy a unique blend of                                                       its French gardens and their panoramic
                                                                                                                                     museelucienroy@orange.fr
heritage, activities, exhibitions and        MUSEUM                                    views over the Doubs valley.
                                                                                                                                     museelucienroy.e-monsite.com
events!                                                                                Visitors are welcome.
                                             LE HAMEAU DU FROMAGE
Architectural interest - The Musée des
Maisons Comtoises comprises 35 17th-,                                                  10 rue de Charmont
                                                                                       25220 VAIRE ARCIER
18th- and 19th-century buildings from                                                                                                MUSEUM
all over the Franche-Comté region,                                                     +33 (0)6 81 87 41 38
                                                                                       vairelegrand@gmail.com                        LA MAISON DE LOUIS PASTEUR
including farmhouses, workshops, a                                                                                                   Louis Pasteur (1822-1895), the man who
communal oven and a chapel.                                                            v.l.g.free.fr
                                                                                                                                     invented the rabies vaccine, returned to
They are typical of rural architecture in                                                                                            Arbois regularly throughout his life. His
Franche-Comté, with each building                                                                                                    house has been kept intact. From the
representing a specific local area. Each                                               GOUFFRE DE POUDREY                            billiards room to the laboratory, it offers
testifies to the unique connection                                                     Deep in the bowels of the earth, a full 70
                                                                                                                                     a glimpse into the scientist’s private life.
between a society and its environment.
                 Cheese makers from past and present                                   metres below ground, the Gouffre de
                                                                                                                                     The house now belongs to several
Get a real insight into how local people
                 spin the most beautiful stories as they                               Poudrey is a cave so colossal it could
                                                                                                                                     organisations, including the Maison des
and communities lived between 1750
                 take you on a thrilling, one-hour tour of                             hold Notre-Dame. It is the largest
                                                                                                                                     Illustres and Jura Musées.
and 1950!        the great Franche-Comté cheese                                        underground chamber open to visitors
Rue du Musée     exhibition, featuring big-screen films,                               in France.
                                                                                                                                     83 rue de Courcelles
25360 NANCRAY    live cheese-making sessions, exhibition                               During the tour, you will see stalactites,
                                                                                                                                     39600 ARBOIS
+33 (0)3 81 55 29 77
                 galleries, giant slide shows, cheese                                  stalagmites and other limestone
                                                                                                                                     +33 (0)3 84 66 11 72
musee@maisons-comtoises.org
                 tasting, a cheesemonger’s shop, a wine                                concretions, in what is a veritable city of
                                                                                                                                     maisonarbois@terredelouispasteur.fr
www.maisons-comtoises.org
                 cellar and regional products, among                                   darkness. The guided tour and the
                                                                                                                                     www.terredelouispasteur.fr
                 other things. An extraordinary journey                                Sound and Light show bring this
                 through time, for children and adults                                 magnificent setting into sharp relief.
                 alike.
                 Restaurants and shops on site.                                        1 lieu-dit Puits de Poudrey
				                                                                                                                                 MUSEUM
                 Groups welcome.                                                       25580 ÉTALANS
GROTTE D’OSSELLE                                                                       +33 (0)3 81 59 31 31                          MAISON NATALE DE PASTEUR
                 A farmer’s market in the summer                                                                                     France’s first ever Louis Pasteur
                 months.                                                               contact@gouffredepoudrey.com
                                                                                       www.gouffredepoudrey.com                      museum has been continually improved
                 Arts and crafts.                                                                                                    since it opened in 1923. Today the
                                                                                                                                     museum, which is located in the house
                                             25330 CLERON                                                                            where Pasteur was born, introduces
                                             +33 (0)3 81 62 41 51                      LA MAISON DU COMTÉ
                                                                                                                                     visitors to the man himself, his artistic
                                             commercial@hameaudufromage.               Come enjoy a four-step guided tour on
                                                                                                                                     and (above all) scientific work, and his
                                             com                                       Comté Cheese and emerge an expert! A
                                                                                                                                     legacy. It hosts permanent collections
                                             www.hameaudufromage.com                   model and a fully automated tour
                                                                                                                                     and temporary exhibitions.
                                                                                       programme explain the PDO rules
                                                                                       applicable to Comté and showcase
The cave, with its sparkling stalactites                                                                                             43 rue Louis Pasteur
                                                                                       various professionals and their passion
and stalagmites and its strange, shifting                                                                                            39100 DOLE
                                                                                       for the industry, the job and the world
colours, houses the largest collection of                                                                                            +33 (0)3 84 72 20 61
                                                                                       of milk production, cheese making and
cave bear bones in Europe. Its wealth of                                                                                             maisondole@terredelouispasteur.fr
                                                                                       ripening.
crystals and colours, its rock formations,                                                                                           www.terredBESANÇON

36                                                                                                                                                                            37
You can also read