Accountability Matters - WWD
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ISSUE
#42
FEBRUARY 12, 2021
A Publication of WWD
Accountability Matters
Seven months after beauty companies vowed to step up diversity and inclusivity
efforts in the wake of the social justice movement, Beauty Inc looks at what firms
have done so far. For more, see pages 7 and 8. PLUS: Esi Eggleston Bracey on the
CROWN Coalition and a spotlight on Black gaming influencers.
ILLUSTRATION BY CAMILA GRAY
THE BUZZ 2
FEBRUARY 12, 2021
Beauty Bulletin
By the
Numbers:
Black-
Owned
Beauty
Businesses
On Yelp
Data from Yelp shows
heightened interest in
Black-owned beauty
businesses. BY JAMES MANSO
THE PUSH TO BUY Black isn’t just
hitting beauty products. Black-owned
professional beauty businesses
such as nail and hair salons, spas
and barbershops have seen a lift
in searches on Yelp, in spite of
challenges to the professional sector
caused by the pandemic.
Diverse brand According to Yelp, searches for
campaigns Black-owned service businesses
garner higher
engagement
skyrocketed 2,400 percent in 2020,
and and Black-owned businesses saw
conversion, a 232 percent increase in review
according to
reports from
mentions.
Eyecue and “We’ve seen our user show
MagicLinks. unprecedented interest in Black-
owned businesses,” said Tara Lewis,
Report: Beauty Brands Returned to senior vice president of community
expansion and trends at Yelp.
Posting Darker Skin Tones Over Holidays
Although momentum has
slowed — a statement from Yelp
in August 2020 pointed to a 6,520
¬ Data from Eyecue and diversity came from influencer- minimum in racial diversity, our percent growth in searches for
Black-owned businesses during the
MagicLinks suggests that racially and user-generated content, team has been able to, in most
summer months — the company
inclusive influencer campaigns with medium or dark skin tones cases, double that,” said Bryan
credits consistent growth to its own
perform better, with Black influencers accounting for two-thirds of this Mirabal, MagicLinks’ global creative
diversity commitments.
garnering a particularly high content during the 2020 holiday strategy and diversity, equity and “This year, we launched a
engagement and conversion rate. season — up from half in 2019. inclusion lead. “It's been great searchable attribute that gives
Following a spike in Instagram Eyecue applied its artificial to see from brands that there's businesses a way to identify
posts featuring darker skin tones, intelligence technology capabilities interest, there's cooperation.” themselves as Black-owned,”
and a steep regression that to analyze more than 170,000 Andrea Renee was the top- Lewis said. Here, the top cities and
suggested the initial increase images from more than 80 beauty performing influencer in a Sephora sectors for Black-owned beauty
was performative, beauty brands brands over the course of 2018 campaign run by MagicLinks. businesses in 2020.
returned to posting darker skin through December 2020 for its Influencers of color garnered a click Tk Caption
tones on their feeds throughout the newest report. The company rate three times higher than the TOP 5 CITIES FOR BLACK-
holiday season, a new report from identified at least one skin tone on norm in the campaign, which drove OWNED BEAUTY BUSINESSES
Eyecue found. 65,000 portrait and closeup images, an engagement rate 52 percent 1. atlanta
Presence of dark skin tones in accounting for nearly 40 percent of above goal. Additionally, the view- 2. st. louis
images grew by 25 percent over all of the content. through rate was 110 percent higher 3. philadelphia
the holidays in comparison to The report was created in tandem than expected. 4. washington, d.c.
2019, according to Eyecue's report. with one from influencer marketing In a Giorgio Armani Beauty holiday 5. baltimore
That growth was still less than the agency MagicLinks, whose diversity, campaign, Monroe Steele garnered
significant increase that came equity and inclusion team recently a conversion rate three times higher BEAUTY BUSINESSES
BY PERCENT GROWTH
in June 2020, though it is higher implemented a 30 percent minimum than her peers', as well as the
than the subsequent regression in requirement for racial diversity of
Tk Caption highest amount of engagement. 1. barber shops 1,122 percent
October. The trajectory suggests talent in all campaigns. In its report, The campaign drove an 2. hair salons 499 percent
that “brands (re)focus on inclusion the agency found brands that engagement rate of 8.5 percent 3. nail salons 164 percent
and diversity when planning content incorporated greater racial diversity — twice the industry average — and
4. spas 55 percent
for key times of the year,” Eyecue in their holiday campaigns saw a view-through rate of about
wrote in its report. better performance. 14 percent — four times the industry Source: Yelp
Time period: Year-over-year, 2019 to 2020.
The largest increase in content “With instituting this 30 percent average. —Alexa Tietjen
P O W E R E D B Y :
WINNING CHINA
MEANS PLAYING THE
LONG GAME
As China’s beauty regulations shift, GED helps beauty brands decode the
state of play and navigate opportunities to build and scale.
A
s China eliminates animal Jean-Philippe Benoist: Brands must be
-testing on many beauty clear on the strategic vision for their brand A beauty brand’s entry
products, ethically minded in China, and do their internal due dili- into China means
beauty brands are eyeing gence around appetite for risk, must-haves connecting with some of
the market in a fresh from their future partner, growth targets, the most discerning and
light. Cruelty-free brands, marketing support, and financial, opera- engaged consumers.
and especially indie tional and supply chain readiness.
brands, have long looked forward to the Brands must understand their target
potential opportunity. consumer, the products that will resonate
Entering China means connecting with and why, and how their brand will be ex-
some of the world’s most discerning and perienced and consumed. At the same
highly engaged beauty consumers. With time, it is helpful to understand the drivers
the beauty market projected to grow to of brand building – from seeding and or-
$60 billion in 2021 it will be the largest ganic engagement on social media, selling
beauty market in the world, according to through social commerce on RED, WeChat
GED. Though entering China will not be and Weibo, and increasingly on Kuaishou,
without its challenges as brands navigate Douyin and Bilibili, and eventually, harvest-
cross-border distribution and launch to a ing on e-commerce platforms like Tmall
broader audience. and JD.com .
For cross-border beauty accelerator,
GED, who has worked with brands includ- Fairchild Studio: How does GED work
ing Caudalie, GlamGlow, and currently with with brands to empower an omnichan-
Dr. Barbara Sturm, RéVive Skincare, Tocca nel experience?
Perfume, T3, and Clark’s Botanicals, among J.P.B.: Pre-cross border, brand building
others, to bring omnichannel experienc- was concentrated in a few specialty beauty
es to life in China, commitment to brand chains including Sephora where GED
building is paramount in the cross-border built several brands from the ground up in
journey. GED knows that to create a mean- China including Caudalie and GlamGlow.
ingful connection with China’s discerning Since the advent of cross border, the cus-
Gen Z and Millennial audience, brands tomer journey takes place on digital with
must build awareness by localizing brand the last mile experience managed by Tmall
DNA and enhancing cultural relevance. and local resellers who deliver to their Fairchild Studio: When launching a
Through education and social engagement, customers. Recently, with the emergence brand in China how does GED build
GED continues to establish brands’ lasting of online to offline luxury beauty stores, a strategy to maintain its DNA while
impact and long-term success. GED is creating a seamless online to of- enhancing cultural relevance?
Here, Jean-Philippe Benoist, found- fline experience for its brand partners in China’s beauty J.P.B.: Educating on brand story, value
er and chief executive officer of GED,
talks to WWD about the opportunity
luxury retail settings.
Now, with the elimination of animal market is proposition, ingredient story and product
performance through handpicked KOLs
in cross-border distribution, de-risking
market entry, and how to resonate with
testing, GED will help brands to prepare
and position for brick-and-mortar retail. fueled by avid and influencers who decode brand mes-
saging for their micro-communities of
China’s beauty consumer. Initiating product registration is the first
step in this process. Cross-border distri-
Gen Z and avid brand followers. In turn, they gener-
ate brand momentum and drive growth
Fairchild Studio: How do you work with
brands to know if they are ready to
bution allows brands that aren’t registered
in China to sell to customers in mainland
Millennial on leading social commerce platforms and
social media platforms.
launch in China? China. Distributors with warehouses within
free trade zones in China and Hong Kong
consumers Fairchild Studio: To that end, how are
sell these brands on digital platforms such as seeking the social media platforms in China simi-
RED, Taobao, and Tmall Global as well as lar or different than those in the U.S.?
in specialty brick-and-mortar beauty stores innovation, J.P.B.: China’s leading social media plat-
that integrate online to offline selling.
quality and foms optimize shopability. As a datapoint,
WeChat - China’s largest social messaging
Fairchild Studio: What is China’s beauty
consumer looking for today? performance.” platform – doubled total transactions in
2020 to $247 billion in and the goal is to
J.P.B.: China’s beauty market is fueled by Jean-Philippe Benoist grow this further through short form videos
avid Gen Z and Millennial consumers seek- Founder, chief executive to compete with leading short form plat-
ing innovation, quality and performance. officer, GED forms like Kuaishou and Bilibili.
The Chinese consumer takes their cue from To scale sustainably and build brand
the brand in its homegrown market – be it equity, GED avoids the peaks and troughs
the U.S. or elsewhere. They want to experi- of high-octane promotional selling by prior-
ence the brand on their terms and in their brand story with a value proposition based itizing organic engagement over live stream-
vernacular. For instance, we help some of on science-led innovation, a strong ingre- ing on Tmall. We help brands set up their
our partners customize sets and packaging dient story and performance driven prod- own channels on WeChat, Weibo, and RED
for Chinese New Year to amplify their cul- ucts. They do brand deep dives, extensive- in addition to driving micro-community
tural relevance. ly researching and reading reviews across building collaborations and activations with
The Gen Z and Millennial audience multiple platforms as part of their purchase key opinion leaders, influencers, and celebri-
Jean-Philippe Benoist
looks for a differentiated and authentic decision making. ties on leading social media platforms.
NEWS FEED 4
FEBRUARY 12, 2021
Carra Platform Gives Personalized So Carra was born.
“The textured hair industry — I like
Advice for Textured Hair to think of it is the last frontier, the
most underserved,” said Awa, of what’s
linked to the multicultural community
The U.K.-based beauty-tech service aims to scale internationally. making up 70 percent of the world’s
BY JENNIFER WEIL 7.4 billion inhabitants. “There is such
a huge chasm between [them and] the
CARRA, a new beauty-tech amount of knowledge consumers have
platform, aims to become the premier in the space. And also, many women
destination for personalized care have been made to feel like they’re
routines for Afro, curly and textured not worthy or not beautiful because of
hair, involving expert advice and beauty standards that maybe tell them
product recommendations tailored to their hair needs to be straight.
a client’s specific needs. “It was really about reframing that
It’s the brainchild of London-based narrative of negativity,” she said. “And
Winnie Awa, who started her career bringing love into the equation.”
as a software tester at IBM, after Carra users fill out a questionnaire
studying management and technology. about their hair and are encouraged
Growing up in Nigeria, Awa said to share a photo of it.
she was meant to pursue a traditional “That enables us to start to build
career, but each one (think doctor, a picture before they even have their
lawyer) was already snapped up by appointment,” said Awa.
her six older siblings. Carra People connect to a personal,
“So I was like, ‘I’ll do computer independent hair coach, who
science,” she explained. Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. “Again, What was a side gig became an understands products and formulations.
However, while at Ernst & Young in the capacity of digital-customer important learning tool. Users receive their customized hair
Awa got the itch to work in fashion. experience,” she said. “It really came “It pushed me to learn about other routine and product recommendations.
“I was so overjoyed when I got in to a head when I was spending time people’s experiences,” said Awa. Carra has an area where that
at Net-a-porter. They were still very building really exciting consumer Before the coronavirus pandemic information can always be accessed.
much a start-up at that stage, and it experiences … but when it came to hit, Antidote Street launched a pop-up The two packages on offer are
was an exciting opportunity to bring hair care, specifically my hair care, activation involving an Airstream van priced at 40 pounds and 100 pounds.
my experience there,” she said. “You I just struggled. It was a nightmare giving a “modern-day salon experience” Today Carra’s coaches are U.K.-
can imagine it was so hilarious when I — be it in terms of finding the right in various parts of London. Personalized based, but they’re meant ultimately to
have to tell my dad that I was leaving types of products, services. There was services became the most popular. be around the globe.
the well-worn path of technology always, as we call it, a k-leg, like an “People wanted more of that,” said The name Carra, if written with one
consulting to go to fashion. I irregularity, somewhere.” Awa, who added data she had culled “r,” means “beloved one.”
remember my sister counseling me: That led her to start Antidote pointed to that, too. “That led me “What we want to leave every single
‘Just tell him e-commerce.’” Street, an e-commerce platform of to start to think about how we can person that experiences [Carra] with
Next stop was Asos and LVMH curated products for textured hair. scale this.” is this feeling of love,” said Awa.
Bevel Enters Walmart,
“Sales in June were significantly by a Black man and a brand that
higher than previous years,” unapologetically embraces blackness
Cummings said. “We had very strong we are very vocal. The fight for social
Adds Products to Hair total business growth in 2020 over
2019. We are on an aggressive growth
justice had an impact and we made a
point to help the community.”
And Grooming
trajectory focused on growing the She admitted that still many men
brand quickly as possible. Direct- don’t know about the Bevel brand,
to-consumer will always play an and they’re devising ways to reach
Bevel is launching at 2,000 Walmart stores this important role where consumers new customers. The brand currently
can get the full lineup, but we’re uses a 360 marketing approach that
month, continuing the momentum of a positive continuing to grow in retail. Being on includes macro and micro influencers
business year in 2020. BY OBI ANYANWU the shelf helps.” on social media and over the top
Bevel also sought help for the Black ads on Hulu and Roku for example.
BEVEL IS heading to Walmart this new hair and body products and an community during lockdowns and “There is still a lot of runway,”
month with three new hair products experiential event in Chicago during after the killing of George Floyd by Cummings said.
to start the year. NBA All Star Weekend. Tia Cummings, the hands of the Minneapolis Police “We’re beginning to think about
This February, the men’s hair and vice president of marketing at Walker Department. The company supported what’s coming in the back half of
grooming brand will be available at & Company Brands said the new students of Urban Prep with laptops the year and focused on the next few
2,000 Walmart locations in the U.S. product launch was a huge success, so they can attend classes from home. months,” she added.
and online, expanding its retail reach and since then they had seen business They also helped consumers sign up for The 2-in-1 Hair and Beard Pomade
that already includes Target, CVS, grow “tremendously.” Headspace for free therapy sessions. by Bevel, one of three new products
launching at Walmart this month.
Sally Beauty and Amazon. “Sales are up over a year ago,” she Over the holidays, Bevel launched
The new products, a curl crème added, with April, May and June being a new campaign called Created for
and two-in-one pomade for waves very strong months for the business, Kings as a love letter to Black men,
and beard, serve the styling needs of especially with grooming products and the company is kicking off a
men with longer hair and beards, and like home trimmers as barbershops new campaign called Dads and
exfoliating pads aid shaving needs by were mandated to close due to the Grads to further support the men in
clearing clogged pores and dead skin pandemic. They also benefited from consumers’ lives.
reducing the likelihood of ingrown retail partners like Target and CVS “Because of all of the good we were
hairs. The products ranging in price being allowed to remain open at the doing, we were focused on helping
from $11.95 to $13.95 will also be start of lockdowns. June, in particular, others,” Cummings said. “It wasn’t
available on the Bevel website. was one of the biggest months for the about selling more product, it was
Bevel kicked off 2020 with 11 company. about helping. As a brand founded
NEWS FEED 5
FEBRUARY 12, 2021
Fearless
Fund Teams
With Steve
Madden
Fearless Fund and
Steve Madden have
come together to
provide resources
for women of color
entrepreneurs around
venture capital raising.
BY ALLISON COLLINS Arian Simone,
Keshia Knight Pulliam
and Ayana Parsons,
general partners at
FEARLESS FUND — the first
Fearless Fund.
venture capital fund built by women
of color for women of color — has Parsons are also general partners at resolution into the racial disparities. Additionally, for Women's History
teamed with Steve Madden for a Fearless Fund, which recently received With that being said, it's not just the Month, in March, the pair will
program meant to provide more a $1 million investment from Costco. lack of diverse investments, it's a lack launch the Walk in Her Shoes
resources and education for women “When we first started the venture of diverse investors,” she said. “The Campaign, where one woman of color
of color entrepreneurs. capital firm and we were raising, we industry is 80 percent white male, entrepreneur will share her story and
Interested entrepreneurs were noticed that there was a very big lack of and in order for the diversity to take win a fully-stocked shoe closet.
asked to compete a questionnaire education in the minority space for what place on the investment side, we need For Simone, who started a retail
in late 2020 in order to receive free venture even is. And we said, 'You know more diversity on the investor side.” business while she was in college,
enrollment to Fearless Fund's “Get what, as soon as we get this going, we Fearless Fund's partnership with providing and education around
Venture Ready” program, which is need to make sure that we educate our Steve Madden includes the Self Made fundraising for women of color is
designed to teach participants about community on what venture capital is x Fearless Fund Series, where Fearless personal. “I remember what that
corporate governance, product- and how to prepare for it,'” Simone said. Fund's portfolio company founder process to raise capital was like, and
market fit and pitching. The program Women of color receive less than stories will be highlighted across the I didn't like it,” she said. “I promised
selected 50 participants. 1 percent of venture capital funding, Steve Madden social channels. Madden myself…you don't worry — one day,
“We educate women of color and Black women receive .0006 will also privately provide mentoring you are going to be the business
entrepreneurs on venture capital and percent, Simone said. “Women to those companies over Zoom, Simone investor you are looking for.”
prepare them to be ready to pitch of color are the most founded said. Fearless Fund's investments include Fearless Fund invests in women
investors,” said Arian Simone, general entrepreneur demographic but the Range Beauty, founded by Alicia Scott; of color-led businesses seeking
partner and cofounder of Fearless least funded,” Simone said. Amp Beauty, founded by Angel Lenise, pre-seed, seed or Series A financing.
Fund. Actress Keshia Knight Pulliam “We got involved in this space, Montre Moore and Phyllicia Phillips; and The company initially invests between
and former CPG executive Ayana of course, to play a solution and HairBrella, founded by Tracey Pickett. $250,000 to $500,000.
Clean Makeup Brand Lys Beauty Launches at Sephora
Founded by Pur Cosmetics alumna Tisha Thompson, Lys Beauty aims to diversify the clean beauty space.
BY JAMES MANSO
FIRST MAKEUP ARTIST, then Serum Foundation with Hyaluronic wasn’t until around 2015, Thompson
marketer, now brand founder: Acid + Turmeric + Ashwagandha, as said, that she thought of venturing
industry veteran Tisha Thompson is it epitomizes the brand’s purpose, off on her own. “When I was getting
diversifying the clean beauty space. Thompson said. In addition to up the ladder at Pur, I wanted to
Thompson’s skin care-oriented functional ingredients, it is available have full autonomy to create what
makeup brand, Lys Beauty, launched in 36 shades. I wanted. It helped me see it’s
this month at Sephora with seven Although Thompson has worked in what I was born to do,” she said.
stockkeeping units. Prices for the several areas within beauty, first as a Thompson’s time at Pur also solidified
clean, Black-owned range from $16 makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics and her own values in building a brand.
to $22, and industry sources estimate later in marketing at Pur Cosmetics, “I used to execute marketing campaigns Triple Fix Serum Foundation with
Hyaluronic Acid + Turmeric + Ashwagandha.
the brand to do between $5 million she’s always had an affinity toward and not see myself in them. You want to
and $8 million in retail for its first business. “When I used to be in be able to have that voice to say, ‘What beauty,” she said. With access as an
12 months. training sessions at MAC Cosmetics, if we use a plus-size model, or someone imperative, Thompson said the brand
The products include Higher I’d be so inquisitive about how with deeper skin tones?’” Thompson will never price a product above $30.
Standard Satin Matte Cream Blush, products were made, what made said. Correspondingly, the brand’s Education is another key
No Limits Matte Bronzer, Secure them come up with this collection, name, Lys, is an acronym for the phrase component of Lys. “If you know
Skin Gripping Serum Primer with 5% and the tactical stuff behind the “Love Your Self.” better, you do better,” Thompson
Niacinamide + AHA, Speak Love Glossy business,” she said. “Then, I always Thompson also gains purpose from said. “We want to educate people of
Lip Treatment Oil, Triple Fix Serum had feedback.” the homogeneity of clean beauty color on why it’s important to use
Foundation with Hyaluronic Acid + Thompson solidified her desire to founders. “It’s staggering to me how clean beauty products. Educating
Turmeric + Ashwagandha, and Triple launch a brand during her career at few founders of diversity there are, and on ingredients is also important to
Fix Translucent Pressed Setting Powder. Pur Cosmetics, where she gained her I wanted to be a leader to bridge the benefit the skin, and that’s uncommon
The line’s hero will be the Triple Fix expertise in product development. It gap and give everyone access to clean at the price point I’m in,” she said.
DIGITA L EV EN TS
PRESENTED BY:
JA N UA RY 14 11AM E T
OWN YOUR NATURAL:
Empowering Beauty from Grande Cosmetics
FEBR UA RY 18 / 3 P M EST
A C O N V E R S AT I O N W I T H
ALICIA GRANDE
FOUNDER AND CEO OF GRANDE COSMETICS
Alicia Grande, founder & CEO of Grande Cosmetics,
discusses the brand’s #OwnYourNatural campaign and its
powerful messaging to help consumers radiate unshakable
confidence and become the truest version of themselves.
Through simple daily habits, one can unlock the inner confidence
ALI C IA GR AN D E
to achieve a meaningful transformation of self-love and
appreciation, amplified by beauty products that truly perform.
R E G I S T E R T O D AY
For assistance or attendee questions, please contact Joy Eisenberg at jeisenberg@fairchildfashion.com
DEEP DIVE 7
FEBRUARY 12, 2021
inclusivity, experts said. The process
will take much longer than the seven
months it has been since many beauty
companies revamped efforts following
the police killing of George Floyd and
the swell of racial justice protests, and
it’s important for companies to keep
diversity at the top of the priority list.
“I don't think that you can put a
timeline on progress. It has to be a
continuous, concerted effort,” said
Munroe Bergdorf, the model and
activist who joined L’Oréal U.K.’s
diversity board in June, three years
after the company fired her for
speaking out about white supremacy
demonstrations in Charlottesville, Va.
“The reality is that it's not becoming
racially progressive, it's making sure
that you represent all kinds of people
— and there's lots of different kinds
of people in the world,” Bergdorf
continued. “So when you've mastered
one area, you’ve still got another area
to focus on. Instead of looking at a
timeline of inclusivity, it has to be a
commitment to inclusivity. It needs to
be seen as an open dialogue.”
Esi Eggleston Bracey, executive vice
president and chief operating officer
of Unilever Beauty and Personal Care,
North America, said via statement
that businesses play a “critical role”
in achieving racial parity.
“Racial issues are human rights
issues and business has a critical
role to play in creating an equitable
society which is intolerant of
intolerance,” Bracey said. “As a
company committed to addressing
social inequality as one of the
most important issues facing the
world, Unilever believes it is our
responsibility to take action to
create systemic change and address
institutionalized racism and social
injustice. Businesses are not separate
from society, but integral to it, and
we can only prosper together if our
society and planet are healthy.”
Neal Semel, managing partner at
Diversity Matters LLC, said the overall
Here's Where Beauty Stands in
culture needs to undergo a shift toward
“‘we do this because it is good for us’”
— not “‘because it is good for them.’”
Its Progress Toward Racial Equity
Corporate motivation should not
be “to get out of trouble,” but to
understand that diversity is critical to
a successful and sustainable business,
In January, WWD Beauty Inc reached out to more than a dozen major beauty companies
Semel said.
to track whether internal progress had been made toward diversity. “Don’t do this because it’s altruistic,
BY ALLISON COLLINS AND ALEXA TIETJEN PORTRAIT BY DAVID CLIFF do it because it’s good for business,” he
said, holding up incoming Walgreens
IT’S TIME TO bring transparency diversity. For some, it had: numbers Diversity inside Unilever, Shiseido chief executive officer Roz Brewer as an
all the way through the corporate of Black employees inched up at the Co. Ltd., Revlon Inc., Huda Beauty example of a leader who acknowledges
structure. Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and E.l.f. Beauty; and Tatcha remained the same, and improves inequity issues.
Companies should be planning Ulta Beauty reported 4 percent more per company-provided data. The “She admits problems, she dialogues
updates for employees, business employees of color, and Coty Inc. now following businesses did not provide with the people who were offended
partners and customers on the has a female-majority board. Milk WWD Beauty Inc with updated and then she tries to create sustainable
diversity and inclusion commitments Makeup’s Black workforce is up to figures: L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble, longer-term solutions,” Semel said,
that many beauty operations 13 percent from 9 percent in June, Sephora, Glossier, Anastasia Beverly referencing Brewer’s work at Starbucks,
promised last summer. and Biossance said it has increased Hills, Kylie Cosmetics and Morphe. where she led the company through
In January, WWD Beauty Inc reached its number of Black employees by Both Sephora and Coty said they plan policy changes and racial bias training
out to more than a dozen major beauty 40 percent in three months. to release updates midyear. after two Black men were arrested
companies to track whether internal Still, progress at many beauty Transparency is crucial in making while waiting in a Philadelphia shop
progress had been made toward companies remains unclear. progress toward diversity and for a business associate. 
DEEP DIVE 8
FEBRUARY 12, 2021
Companies are often too quick to focused solely on founders of color. brand founders, though it is not a rewarding the transparency.”
become defensive when a misstep Along with other in-store and singular solution, Tksaid
Caption
Sharon Chuter, As transparency talks continue, all
occurs, Semel said. “The idea that internal action items, Sephora said it founder of Uoma Beauty and Pull Up parties — brands, consumers and the
apologizing somehow is an admission of would establish an inclusivity-based For Change. media — should remain “solution-
guilt, we’ve got to get better at admitting performance metric for employees “Black founders are very often based, rather than outrage- and
when we do something wrong just as and expand recruitment and career over-mentored and underinvested,” scandal-based,” said Bergdorf.
a step toward healing. You can’t fix a advancement efforts for people of Chuter told reporters in a recent “The reality is that we're all moving
problem if you don’t call it a problem. color in its workforce. Zoom conference unveiling her Make on different timelines and people do
“Starbucks didn’t go out of Supporting businesses and It Black campaign. get things wrong,” she said. “Some
business,” he added. potential employees early on is “Everybody has a mentorship people do things that are offensive,
Conversations about racial parity key, according to Semel, who said program for Black founders,” she said. but the most important thing is that
are shifting, as companies and companies’ mentoring initiatives “Has anybody ever thought about we're talking about it with a view to
consumers see the value in speaking should be applauded and that they what happens to these people when change and progress. If we're caught
transparently about the topic. Those are important to talent retention. they come out of the mentorship up on people not getting things
conversations are taking place K-beauty business Glow Recipe set up program? I can tell you: nothing.” right — rather than people getting
publicly on social media platforms a mentoring program last year that has Chuter’s campaign pledges to deploy things wrong and helping them get
and privately, such as in retailer-to- worked with 54 Thrones, Skin Gourmet between $25,000 and $100,000 to it right — we're going to be stuck in
brand founder discussions. and Hama Beauty on scaling their Black brand founders via live pitch a circle of clickbait and outrage. It’s
Ron Robinson, the founder of businesses. For the next few months, contests. The effort is meant to important that we work together, and
vitamin-C-focused skin care line Glow Recipe’s team will work with Coup combat the industry-wide lack of that brands listen to the people but
BeautyStat, said he has received de Coiff, Stay Fresh and YGV Collective. investment in Black-owned businesses. also that people listen to the brands
support from new retail partners Each mentoring round is tailored Cara Sabin, CEO of Sundial Brands, and allow them the chance to grow
Nordstrom Inc., Neiman Marcus to what the mentee needs, Christine has spoken with WWD about the and change.” ■
Group and Saks Fifth Avenue, Chang and Sarah Lee, Glow Recipe notion of community commerce and
and that each has offered free cofounders, said. “A lot of times it’s SheaMoisture’s financial investments
email placements or Robinson’s digital expertise, knowledge about in Black women. PERCENTAGE
participation in live, virtual events for digital ad scaling, very often operations, “At SheaMoisture, we believe the
Black History Month. The retailers how to talk to retailers and negotiate path to true equality is through
OF BLACK
have continued communicating with and partner the right way,” Chang said. economic equity. That’s why we are so EMPLOYEES AT
him about how they plan to support Companies have also ramped up focused on centering entrepreneurs, MAJOR BEAUTY
the Black community. internal mentoring. and in particular, women of color and COMPANIES
“Some retailers do have emails that Fabrizio Freda, president and CEO Black female entrepreneurs,” Sabin The most recent figures
go out to partners updating them on of the Estée Lauder Cos., said the said at WWD’s Virtual Beauty Summit. available for the total
what’s going on,” Robinson said. “I’d company has created a new leadership Similar to its “It Comes Naturally” percentage of employees
love to have updates in terms of what development program meant to campaign for Black women, at beauty companies who
they’ve done to show their commitment ensure Black employees have support SheaMoisture pledged this week $1 identify as Black.
to the cause and the movement.” and advocacy from senior executives, million worth of investments in Black
Ulta publicly unveiled a plan in as well as mentorship and career men, along with a docuseries and coty
February that detailed intentions to development opportunities. collection of hair and body products. 17.2% Employees
double the amount of Black-owned In June, Lauder established a five- The new U.S. presidential Identify as Black
brands in its assortment, pledging year plan to reach U.S. population administration’s focus on unity and
$4 million in marketing support. The parity — around 13 percent — for healing has ignited hope among elf beauty
company also established a Diverse Black employees across all levels brands and consumers that racial 8% Employees
Leaders Program to give future of the business, and that it would justice will be a priority. Already, Identify as Black
leaders in the organization CEO and double sourcing from Black-owned President Biden has signed executive
huda beauty
executive mentorship, and appointed businesses over the next three years, orders underscoring his commitment 13% Employees
activist, actor and Pattern Beauty and work more closely with Noble, its to equity, which could trickle down to Identify as Black
founder and CEO Tracee Ellis Ross as Black employee resource group. the corporate world, Semel said.
diversity and inclusion adviser. “Last year, we formed a racial equality Accountability is key, especially estée lauder cos.
“It’s our responsibility that we steering committee,” said Tracey Travis, as corporations may have been 13.4% Employees
continue to drive this forward,” said executive vice president and chief sidetracked by the ongoing pandemic, Identify as Black
Dave Kimbell, Ulta’s president and financial officer at Lauder. She is on the mob that stormed the capitol and
l’oréal
chief merchandising and marketing that committee, which she said leads the election. Semel said he’s hearing
9% Employees
officer. Doubling its assortment of progress against Lauder’s diversity fewer conversations in the business
Identify as Black
Black-owned brands would account initiatives. The company also had community about diversity, but is
for about 4 percent of Ulta’s overall “greater transparency on our inclusion seeing more job listings for diversity- revlon
brand mix. Kimbell said the company and diversity information” in its latest related executives. 27% Employees
plans to continue efforts to diversify ESG report, Travis said. “The employee “I’m not seeing a whole lot of Identify as Black.
its offerings in the coming years and response is very encouraged,” she said. forward movement,” Semel said.
“will update periodically as we move Lauder employs 1.4 percent more Beauty companies should aim for sephora
forward and make progress or don’t.” Black employees now than it did in granularity and think through all 14% Employees
Identify as Black
Other retailers, including Sephora June, according to a company report aspects of their business, including
and Macy’s Inc., have committed to from November. Black employees the “far-reaching tentacles” — all the shiseido
Aurora James’ 15 Percent Pledge, make up 5.9 percent of Lauder’s way through the supply chain — he 10% Employees
which works with organizations to add corporate base, 16.4 percent of its said, and suggested companies be Identify as Black.
Black-owned brands to their shelves retail base and 15.3 percent of its willing to provide updates — even if
and to build up a business ecosystem manufacturing and distribution base. not all updates are good updates. tatcha
that supports Black-owned companies. Black employees hold nearly 4 percent “I’m a big believer in transparency 4% Employees
In its “Racial Bias in Retail” study, of vice president-level positions, 4 — that’s the right approach. At the Identify as Black
published in January, Sephora said percent of director and executive same time, I’m concerned with how
ulta beauty
it would double its assortment of director positions and 6.9 percent of that gets used in the public sphere,”
10% of Employees
Black-owned brands — it stocks 10 manager-level positions and below Semel said, referencing cancel
Identify as Black
of 327 total brands — by the end of in corporate. Nearly 20 percent of culture. “That environment is not
2021. Sephora revealed this week Lauder’s board are people of color. inviting for me to share my less-than- unilever
the participants for its Accelerate External mentorship can be glorious numbers if it’s going to be 8% of Employees
program, which, as of last year, is integral to the trajectory of aspiring used against me. We’ve got to start Identify as Black
ANALYZE THIS 9
FEBRUARY 12, 2021
The CROWN Act Is
Esi Eggleston Bracey
Pushing to Protect,
And Value, Black
Women's Hair
“Hair discrimination is a really critical issue in
how racism gets manifested.” BY TARA DONALDSON
IT WAS A CORPORATE training and breakage. It’s a look inaugural
on women’s conformity in the poet Amanda Gorman recently
workplace that made Esi Eggleston immortalized with a red padded
Bracey realize the straightened bob headband set atop her braids like a
she was sporting was its own kind crown of its own. And though these
of conformity — one that saw her styles have been passed down by
shrinking to fit into longstanding ancestors and lines that would have
norms of “professionalism” that didn’t long valued their beauty, many Black
accommodate her natural hair. women have forced their hair, often
But that, she said, “is not OK.” “Hair against its will, into looks more
discrimination is a really critical issue “acceptable” to the Western world.
in how racism gets manifested.” “When we talked to women, we
And that’s why the executive vice heard over and over again some
president and COO of personal care at horrible, painful stories about lack
Unilever North America — apart from of acceptance of hair, things our hair
committing to wearing her hair in its were called, torturing our hair to
natural state throughout her 30-year make it acceptable,” Eggleston Bracey
corporate career — has a personal said. “We’ve been at a journey of
commitment to ending race-based our hair, that we can love our hair,
hair discrimination by pushing legal celebrate our hair.”
protection through the CROWN Act, In her own journey of growing out a on an issue that has been there
which is bolstered by the CROWN relaxer and embracing the big chop to “Instead of and gave the call to action to help
Coalition in fighting for the cause. let her natural hair grow in, Eggleston and mobilize, but it is a power of
The CROWN — Creating a Bracey said, “It was like freedom.” just highlighting the people. We’ve got grassroots
Respectful and Open World for “I didn’t want to conform. I didn’t what was wrong, organizations, we’ve got legislative
Natural Hair — Act, created in want to believe that I was just like officials. Every legislator that’s been
2019 by Unilever brand Dove everybody else. And as an advocate, we wanted to part of the Act has been a person
and the CROWN Coalition, is a activist, champion for diversity… make it right.” of color, and a Black person and,
law that ensures protection from I couldn’t be the poster child for disproportionately, Black women.”
discrimination because of race-based physical conformity,” she said. “I did —ESI EGGLESTON BRACEY , While some brands have lobbied
UNILEVER NORTH AMERICA
hairstyles. It means no one can be it to show who I am but what I got for change, Unilever, via Dove and
sent home from work for wearing was incredible freedom.” the CROWN Act, has manifested it
braids, dreadlocks, twists, knots or It’s a freedom she wants everyone two employees, to the largest of at a legislative level — which may
any protective style, a reality Black — anyone — to enjoy. businesses and the best chance of prove a key differentiator in effecting
women are 1.5 times more likely to So far, the CROWN Act has been those being covered if you have both transformational change.
face because of their hair, according passed and accepted as law in seven state and federal legislation.” “Instead of just highlighting what
to a Dove CROWN research study states — California, New York, The CROWN Coalition, which counts was wrong, we wanted to make it
done in 2019. It means the 80 percent Washington, Colorado, New Jersey, the National Urban League, Color of right,” Eggleston Bracey said. With
of Black women who say they have Maryland and Virginia. California Change and the Western Center on the pandemic seeing legislative states
to change their hair from its natural Sen. Holly J. Mitchell (D) was the first Law and Poverty, alongside Dove as closed, 2020 proved some setback
state to “fit in at the office” won’t to introduce and name the CROWN its members, has been on a mission for the Act's legislative agenda,
have to. It also means no one can Act (SB188) in 2019. In late January, to support legislative officials in but momentum has recovered. “It
be denied educational opportunities the Act passed Delaware’s House and their efforts to see greater adoption continues to give us an engaged
because their hair doesn’t meet a is now en route to the state’s Senate. of the CROWN Act. And an ongoing platform to talk about it.”
non-inclusive school dress code. Taking things to the federal level, petition designed to urge legislators Beyond hair discrimination
“Dove has a life passion as a brand the Act passed the U.S. House of to vote “yes” on the Act, has made it a being “one element of systemic
and it really is championing and Representatives last year, though it “movement of the people,” according discrimination,” she said, “there are
campaigning for real beauty for will have to be reintroduced this year to Eggleston Bracey. So far, the petition so many more.”
women and girls, and that means and be cleared through the Senate. has amassed 247,731 signatures out of “There’s the issue of inequity in
truly beauty inclusivity, how we can be “We’re really hopeful and the 300,000 it’s seeking. health care. Being in the beauty
confident and comfortable in who we optimistic about passing in the “We're on the ground and and personal care business, that
Photograph by Victoria Stevens
are,” Eggleston Bracey told Beauty Inc. House and the Senate,” Eggleston committed. Dove is committed for manifests itself as an inequity in
“When we look around, that just is not Bracey said. “With that, though, the CROWN Coalition to just make skin care. Fifty percent of derms
the case. And if you really go deeply we're still committed to going state sure everyone has the right to wear say they don’t get an education or
into Black women, it's our hair.” by state, because you maximize their hair their way without fear understanding of how to care for
Black women have worn protective protection when you have both and trepidation of having their skin of color, and today 40 percent
hairstyles, like braids and twists, federal legislation and state employment taken away or being of America is people of color,” she
for centuries, endeavoring to keep legislation. You have from the sent home from school,” she said. said. That's one reason Unilever is
their coiled crowns from damage smallest of businesses, just one or “We inspired a spark with Dove “championing for skin equity and 
ANALYZE THIS 10
FEBRUARY 12, 2021
Marcella Cacci, Esi Eggleston
Bracey, and Brook Harvey-Taylor
health care.” stereotypes of Black men,” Eggleston $5 million over the next five years the world is at present when it comes
As a result of that commitment, Bracey said. “We're advocating for the for the ongoing support of the Black to racial equity and where it needs
Unilever said over the summer that George Floyd Justice in Policing Act community. It will also facilitate to be, according to Eggleston Bracey,
it would make its skin care portfolio that helps eliminate bias in the police investments in organizations like the it’s going to take greater societal and
more inclusive, starting with and gets rid of harmful chokeholds National Black Child Development economic inclusion, for one, as well
eliminating words like “fair/fairness” and a number of other things, so Institute and mentoring program Save as ending harmful stereotypes —
“white/whitening,” and “light/ that directly comes out of that, along a Girl, Save a World, among others, to which the beauty industry can play a
lightening” from its packaging. The with showing Black men in all their support their work for the community. particularly critical role in.
company changed the name of its humanity, the players as husbands Beyond that, Eggleston Bracey “In beauty, we shape those images
Fair & Lovely brand sold across Asia, and community leaders and not just a added, “We’re evolving…the Dove so we can be responsible for the
which had long been associated, super power athlete or as criminals.” Self-Esteem Project and we’ve images,” she said. “And these are
with skin lightening, to Glow & She added, “There's a lot of action really supercharged it to explicitly issues I think we should address,
Lovely. While the shift caught social that through our purpose at Unilever, address racial justice and inequities ending harmful stereotypes.”
media backlash for being cosmetic we're committed to taking.” in appearance bias…In this we’re Increasingly, brands and businesses
only, Unilever maintains that “Fair While George Floyd’s killing last are being called on to be driven by a
& Lovely has never been, and is year didn’t quite directly impact the purpose that extends beyond profit.
not, a skin bleaching product,” CROWN Act’s momentum, it did “More and more “If you look at the Edelman Trust
that it, instead, works to “improve resurface centuries-old systems of [Barometer], it shows that more and
skin firmness and smoothen skin oppression and get more people on people are looking more people are looking to business to
texture — all of which help enhance board with pushing for progress. to business to take take action because of trust. They have
radiance and glow.” “What I think it did was that it greater trust in business,” Eggleston
The company also launched made everyone more woke and it
action because Bracey said. Purpose, she added,
Mel in September, with the aim made much more people a captive of trust.” was the reason she joined Unilever
of offering “science-led skin care, audience to change,” Eggleston three years back. “Each and every
—ESI EGGLESTON BRACEY ,
designed to nourish the magic of Bracey said. “Because of George brand has a purpose and, out of that
UNILEVER NORTH AMERICA
melanin-rich skin,” according to the Floyd’s sacrifice we saw that we purpose, we take action to be people
brand's website. could do more on Dove…As we and community positive and we
On the men's side of the business, thought about CROWN, creating a increasing representation of Black think we’re leading the way for all of
Dove Men+Care also announced respectful, open world for natural voices on our platforms and just business to make that impact because
in September a partnership with hair, we could also stand for no continuing to work overall, even at we are rewarded with consumers
the National Basketball Players racism, creating a respectful, open Unilever, at more inclusivity and buying our products. We help them
Association called Commit To world with no racism.” more diversity in our workplace.” through our products, but I believe we
C.A.R.E. (Care About Racial Equity) With that, the Crown Coalition, As it stands, Unilever says 17 have an obligation to help them with
Now to protect Black men. endeavoring to expand its purview percent of its leadership is Black, and more because we can. And it’s through
“Our mission is to change the and its impact, developed the among its overall employees, that their investment in us and their
way the world sees and treats Black CROWN Fund, with which the number is 8 percent. dollars that we profit, so we should
men and put an end to harmful group has committed to donating To bridge the divide between where have their communities profit.” ■VIRTUAL
DIVERSITY
FORUM
THE NEW FACE OF
FASHION AND BEAUTY
MARCH 24
This forum will explore where things are
for fashion and beauty versus where they
need to be, as well as address head on
the hot-button discussions the industry
must have in order to effectively and
authentically turn promises into action.”
Tara Donaldson
Executive Editor, WWD
Head of Diversity, Equity & Inclusion,
Fairchild Media Group
BUY TICKETS
For more information, visit fairchildlive.com
Attendee Inquiries Event Sponsorship
Lauren Pyo lpyo@fairchildfashion.com Amanda Smith asmith@fairchildfashion.com
FA I R C H I L D M E D I A G R O U PMATTER OF INFLUENCE 12
FEBRUARY 12, 2021
creators who understand where the
market’s gaps are. Lopez liked the
Levi’s x Super Mario collaboration,
with customized jackets and
dungarees that could be purchased
in the real world.
“It was just so cool and
fashionable,” she said. “Sometimes
companies try a little bit too hard.
They’re not really listening.”
Lopez was part of a T-shirt
collaboration with Asos’ Collusion
and Space Invaders, where one could
use a Snapchat filter making a design
on a T-shirt virtually come to life.
She’s partial to Fenty Beauty, due
to its extensive shade range. For
cosplayers, watercolor eyeliners —
like from By Melolops — are key since
they allow people to paint their faces
like game characters, Lopez said.
“Glossier [Perfecting] Skin Tint
is my savior, because I love a glowy
look,” Lopez said. “And then Milk
[Makeup], their Hydro Grip Primer.”
Black Women Gamers Talk Beauty, STEPHANIE IJOMA,
FOUNDER OF NNESAGA
Opportunities and Challenges “I have been a gamer since I was
four years old,” said Stephanie Ijoma,
founder of NNESAGA. “Sometimes life
ColourPop Cosmetics, MAC Cosmetics and Urban Decay are among the is stressful, and you just want to be in
beauty brands entering into the video gaming sector. BY JENNIFER WEIL your own world. That’s where gaming
takes me.”
she’s really badass, she does parkour In 2015, she created NNESAGA,
BEAUTY BRANDS ARE just what they like to play and challenges
and martial arts. Enter the Matrix is “to champion diversity and inclusion
starting to wake up to the lucrative being faced.
a game that focused on two diverse within gaming,” she explained.
video gaming industry, which has a
“Growing up as a gamer, I never
massive female following. JAY-ANN LOPEZ, FOUNDER OF leads: an Asian man and a Black
really saw video game characters
Within that, various platforms BLACK GIRL GAMERS female. So those were my favorite
that necessarily look like me. There
— such as Black Girl Gamers and Jay-Ann Lopez began gaming at a games back in the day, and nowadays
a lot of social games are my favorites. were one or two characters here and
NNESAGA — have emerged to give very young age and began Black Girl
Currently, I’m playing a game called there, but it was very scarce. My role
voice and support to Black women Gamers in 2015.
Spellbreak.” in this industry is to make sure that
gamers, a powerful subset. “I started it because there was a
Lopez lauded the first Sims and we’re visible and granted the same
ColourPop Cosmetics, MAC need,” she said. “I didn’t have any
MAC Cosmetics tie-in, when they opportunities as everyone else.”
Cosmetics and Urban Decay are other Black women who were my
offered new makeup skins. Ijoma’s favorite game is Grand
among the brands starting to enter friends who played games. Gaming
“Sometimes, though, brands are Theft Auto: Vice City. “That’s what
into the gaming sphere, which in can be very toxic because there’s a lot
2020 was estimated to be worth of non-amenity when the people play. Jay-Ann Lopez Stephanie Ijoma
$159.3 billion, according to Newzoo. They can say racists and sexist things
In the U.S. last year, nearly 41 to you — and get away with it for a
percent of gamers were female, Statista lot of the time.”
data shows. Yet, despite the high Black Girl Gamers has not only
proportion of women, gaming is still grown to include more than 7,000
largely considered a white man’s game. members now, but it also hosts
“Gaming mirrors the real world,” events, such as Gamer Girls Night
said Jay-Ann Lopez, founder of Black In, created with the gaming and
Girl Gamers. “For a long time, the entertainment platform NNESAGA.
default in a gaming advertisement “We had beauty brands, gaming
was white men. What does that say to brands, women of all different
the other consumers?” shapes, sizes, creeds, religions and
“It’s never been a thing for men,” backgrounds there as a safe space,
contended Stephanie Ijoma, founder but also a women’s gaming event
of NNESAGA. “Gaming is gaming, because a lot of gaming events are
whether you’re a man, woman — formed from the male perspective,”
anything. Growing up as a gamer, I Lopez said. Sponsors included
never saw it as being a guy’s hobby. Makeup Revolution and Palmer’s.
I just saw it as something that I loved. Lopez has also cofounded a
“There’s a lot of gatekeeping that, platform called Curlture, focusing on behind the curve what it comes helped me mold my branding
unfortunately, a lot of men do within natural hair and beauty. to what creators can create by aesthetic,” she said. “It really opened
the games industry,” she continued. “My favorite games have always themselves,” she said. “Sometimes a new world when it came to beauty,
“I try to ensure that gaming should be had a kind of fantasy element or they try to offer the official brand fashion and music, in particular.”
an equal playing field for everyone.” an element of diversity,” she said, thing in a game. It’s like we can Growing up, she loved Final
Here, some prominent members of naming among them: Guild Wars 2 create this as well. Why do we need Fantasy VII, while more recent games
the Black female gaming community and Mirror’s Edge — “because it has to pay for this?” Ijoma enjoys are Spider-Man: Miles
share insights on beauty brands, an Asian American female lead, and Lopez suggests brands work with Morales, starring an Afro-Latino You can also read
