Beauty Ingredients Worth Understanding - Sobel Skin
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Beauty Ingredients
Worth Understanding
I T S E E M S L I K E E V E RY D AY, A B E A U T Y B U Z Z W O R D P O P S U P ( C A N Y O U S AY
“ K A K A D U P L U M ” ? ) . T H AT ’ S W H E R E T H I S G L O S S A RY C O M E S I N . R E A D O N F O R G A M E - C H A N G I N G
I N G R E D I E N T S T H AT ’ L L M A K E S H O P P I N G A N D H AV I N G G O O D S K I N E A S I E R .
By Lisa D eSantis
To Smooth Wrinkles…
BUZZY INGREDIENT: Retinoid
appears as prescription-strength
retinoic acid and over-the-
counter retinol.
WHAT IT DOES: It acts as an
exfoliant, helping to shed flakes
and speed up skin cell turnover.
It can also boost collagen pro-
duction, helping to minimize
the appearance of fine lines.
Be careful, though: This stuff is
strong and can cause irritation.
Dermatologists suggest building
HAIR AND MAKEUP BY TROI OLLIVIERRE BEAUTY
up tolerance by applying it every
other night (never more than a
pea-size dollop) and layering it
over and under moisturizer.
TRY: L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Derm
Intensives 0.3% Pure Retinol
Serum, $37; at drugstores.
48 RE AL SIMPLE O CTOBER 2020 P h o t o g r a p h b y M e i Ta o
THE REALIST
To Hydrate…
BUZZY INGREDIENT: Hyaluronic
acid (HA for short) is a sugar
found naturally in the skin, and
when applied topically, it holds To Clear Acne…
1,000 times its weight in water.
WHAT IT DOES: It adds suppleness
BUZZY INGREDIENT: Salicylic
and delivers a dewy glow. While
acid is an oil-soluble beta hydroxy
a little can work wonders, it’s pos-
acid. It also plays the starring
sible to overdo it: When applied in
anti-inflammatory role in good
dry climates, it can pull moisture
ol’ aspirin.
out of skin. Avoid this by using
WHAT IT DOES: This guy deep-
an HA serum and topping it with
cleans pores and clears “visible
a moisturizer.
congestion” (that’s the polite
TRY: Neutrogena Hydro Boost
way of saying blackheads and
Hyaluronic Acid Serum, $24;
whiteheads).
at drugstores.
TRY: Dr. Dennis Gross DRx Blem-
ish Solutions Acne Eliminating
BUZZY INGREDIENT: Squalane is
Gel, $40; sephora.com.
a saturated lipid that’s produced
when the naturally occurring anti-
oxidant squalene is hydrogenated
To Brighten… (yes, it’s complicated).
WHAT IT DOES: This nongreasy
BUZZY INGREDIENT: An Australian emollient locks in moisture and
superfood, Kakadu plum (try prevents water loss without
to say that out loud and not gig- producing additional oil, so you
gle) reportedly has the highest get softer, smoother skin. If oils
recorded level of natural vitamin C make you break out, this is for you.
(100 times that of an orange). TRY: Naturium Plant Squalane
WHAT IT DOES: It can help fight Face Oil, $16; naturium.com.
dullness and reduce brown
spots in a gentler way than its BUZZY INGREDIENT: Watermelon,
lab-formulated counterparts, which is more than 90 percent
making it a no-brainer for sensi- water, is an all-star skin hydrator.
tive or acne-prone skin. WHAT IT DOES: It gently exfoli-
TRY: Kora Organics Noni Glow ates, hydrates, and brightens.
Sleeping Mask, $48; us.kora Plus, it’s more lightweight than
organics.com. creamier ingredients, so it’s a To Soothe…
great option for oily folks.
BUZZY INGREDIENT: Vitamin C, TRY: St. Ives Watermelon Glowing
BUZZY INGREDIENT: Honey is the
which goes by upwards of 35 (!) Oil-Free Face Moisturizer, $6;
queen bee of antibacterial and
monikers on labels, often called target.com.
antifungal benefits.
“ascorbic” something or other.
WHAT IT DOES: The sweet stuff
WHAT IT DOES: Technically, it
may help reduce the redness
neutralizes free radicals to limit
and swelling that result from
damage from UV rays and envi-
acne, and it could even help fight
ronmental pollution. Oh, you
acne-causing bacteria. It can be
mean in English? It diminishes
more effective if it’s infused with
discoloration and splotchiness.
propolis, a combo of beeswax
TRY: Ole Henriksen Banana
and tree sap. It gets bonus points
Bright Vitamin C Serum, $65;
for soothing eczema.
sephora.com.
TRY: Naturopathica Manuka
Honey Hydrating Gel Mask, $58;
naturopathica.com.
Illustrations by Marisol Or tega O CTOBER 2020 RE AL SIMPLE 49
THE REALIST
To Even Discoloration…
BUZZY INGREDIENT: Niacinamide,
which also goes by vitamin B3.
WHAT IT DOES: It regulates
sebum production (so long,
excess grease) and decreases
inflammation. It’s key for bright-
ening discoloration—which
tends to be more prominent in
those with darker skin tones—so
reach for it if you have melasma
(brown patches).
TRY: Paula’s Choice Clinical
Niacinamide 20% Treatment,
$48; paulaschoice.com.
To De-stress…
BUZZY INGREDIENT:
To Firm Up Lax Skin… Ashwagandha is an herb that has
been used in Ayurvedic medicine
BUZZY INGREDIENT: Collagen for thousands of years to fight
is a protein that provides the fatigue and boost immunity
scaffolding to keep skin plump, (sign us up!).
tight, and wrinkle-free. Scan WHAT IT DOES: Perhaps the ques-
labels for “hydrolyzed collagen,” tion is what doesn’t it do. When
To Improve Texture… applied topically, it soothes
which is easily absorbed.
WHAT IT DOES: It helps skin reactive skin, fights free radicals,
BUZZY INGREDIENT: Glycolic acid, brightens, helps retain moisture,
look and feel bouncier, but the
made from sugarcane, shows up and has antimicrobial and anti-
molecule is typically too big to
in toners and peel pads because inflammatory effects.
penetrate skin. A better option:
of its liquidy texture. TRY: Ranavat Imperial Glow Facial
microneedling, a DIY or pro treat-
WHAT IT DOES: If sugar is bad Polish, $42; ranavat.com.
ment that pokes tiny holes in
because it erodes your teeth,
the skin to trigger healing and
glycolic acid is good for a similar
more collagen production.
reason—it eats away at dead
TRY: BeautyBio GloPro Facial
skin cells to reveal a brighter,
Microneedling Tool, $199;
smoother complexion. To reduce
beautybio.com.
irritation, use it at night and
O U R E X P E RT S
apply sunscreen in the morning.
BUZZY INGREDIENT: Peptides, DAVID E. BANK, MD,
For a more intense treatment, DERMATOLOGIST AT THE
short chains of amino acids,
opt for a professional glycolic CENTER FOR DERMATOLOGY,
are the building blocks of COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY
acid peel, which leaves skin look-
proteins like collagen and elastin. IN MT. KISKO, NEW YORK
ing radiant after a few days of
They have names such as Y. CLAIRE CHANG, MD,
redness and peeling. DERMATOLOGIST IN
acetyl hexapeptide-3, palmitoyl
TRY: Sobel Skin Rx 30% Glycolic NEW YORK CITY
tripeptide-1, and Peppa Pig
Acid Peel, $46; sephora.com. PRUDVI MOHAN KAKA,
(don’t quote us on that last one). CHIEF SCIENTIFIC OFFICER
WHAT THEY DO: Some types sig- AT DECIEM
nal muscles to relax; others cue RON ROBINSON,
COSMETIC CHEMIST IN NEW
cells to create more collagen.
YORK CITY AND FOUNDER OF
TRY: M-61 Hydraboost Collagen + BEAUTYSTAT COSMETICS
Peptide Water Cream, $74;
bluemercury.com.
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