EVENT REPORT - Flavourtalk 2020 Natural Flavours: Innovations, Technologies and Authenticity - ICATs
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EVENT REPORT
Flavourtalk 2020
Natural Flavours: Innovations,
Technologies and Authenticity
Deirdre Makepeace and Mandy Burns
This firm fixture on the flavour were able to make the most of some year.’ Thyme, rosemary, ginger,
industry’s calendar was sadly excellent product demonstrations and basil and habanero extracts were
impacted by the emerging COVID-19 specialist presentations. The event, demonstrated with a range of uses
crisis. The exhibition and conference run by Flavour Horizons, focused on across both food and cosmetics
started a matter of days before the key emerging themes such as defining from baked goods to beverages and
USA and many European countries ‘natural’, clean labelling, sourcing, confectionery with all products being
announced travel restrictions and purity, health and of course cost. both Kosher certified and organic. The
varying degrees of lockdown. Some As in the past the event ran on company also announced a number
delegates and exhibitors had taken a two-day format with the first day a new products under development
the difficult decision to pull out consisting of table-top exhibitions. including Strawberry Glycidate 2,
and others left early, unsure if their Advance Biotech’s presentation Pyrazine Mixture IX, with a nutty, coffee
return home would be hampered by stated that ‘derived herbal and chocolate odour, and Cocoa Hexenal.
restrictions. However, the reduced botanical extracts will experience Merck (Sigma Aldrich)
number of exhibitors and delegates some of the fastest growth this demonstrated seven scent samples,
Autumn 2020 ICATSNews 15
Above: Flavour Talk Amsterdam (hall) The three of which were also available Soft Extract. Obtained by aqueous
Barbizon Palace’s 15th century chapel, in tasting formats. Delegates were ethanol extraction and distillation of
Olof’s with day 2 presentations set to begin invited to smell, think and interpret the untoasted bourbon oak powder, the
aromas and flavours, checking against aroma presents a rich and woody
Above Right: Lionel Hitchen Ltd, ingredient the catalogued aroma and taste notes. vanilla scent.
demonstrations underway As always, a full table of developers The presentation by Essential Oils
and buyers will often pick up on of Tasmania was a measure of the
different nuances across the samples global opportunities that this event
and discussions around potential uses offers. Boronia, native to Australia,
The Flavour Raw was evidence of the shared innovation where 12 million yellow flower heads
that these sessions can offer. are used to create one kilo of absolute,
Materials Exhibition Omega demonstrated their is used in tobacco, spirits, juices and
and FlavourTalk kiiNote® natural extracts in a delicious also fragrance. The leaves of the
conference are non-alcoholic Bloody Mary recipe, Tasmanian native pepper, known as
re-imagined as a ‘Bloody Shame’. the mountain pepper, used to create
presented by Flavour Carrot flavours added a fresh diverse products, has an exotic
Horizons in association vegetable depth, beetroot a more scent and spicy top notes. Tasmanian
with the British Society earthy depth, unmani a complex and peppermint is harvested from
slightly smoked savoury note and paddocks that have been established
of Flavourists. tomato essence, created unusually for over 30 years and the oil has a
from English grown tomatoes, those strong fresh flavour and aroma with a
that don’t quite make the grade for clean, rich complex background. The
supermarket display. The final kick state of Tasmania is non-GMO and
of Sancho Pepper kiiNote® and has one of the lowest air pollution
Capiscum filled the alcohol gap. They ratings on the planet. Year to year
had replaced celery salt, a known product consistency was discussed,
allergen, with watercress. The ‘Bloody particularly in the light of Australia and
Shame’ was an entertaining showcase Tasmania’s recent climatic challenges.
of Omega’s drive for pure and natural Robertet, one of the oldest
ingredients. businesses in the sector, used a
Lionel Hitchin showcased a range historic theme to demonstrate the
of taste and aroma samples from both journey to today’s world of natural
their citrus ranges and their herb and products. Robertet presented as The
spice ranges, including some more Botanist with five healthy concepts
unusual extracts such as Bourbon Oak combining taste, active ingredients
16 ICATSNews Autumn 2020
and clean labelling. There was an ‘no-handshakes’ rule. The conference create a ‘natural flavouring substance’.
emphasis on certified organic and programme had been amended Traditional food preparation processes
with Gummunity, EFSA approval somewhat with some speakers joining include for example cooling, cutting,
for labelling as having benefits for remotely and others unable to join. drying, pressing, distillation, mixing
relaxation and respiratory disorders. The programme was nonetheless and macerating. The presentation
Besmoke highlighted one of the excellent with a range of technical and formed the perfect introduction to
latest trends in food flavouring with regulatory presentations of enormous the very complex field of definitions
significant growth in demand for value to the assembled delegates. surrounding the narrative of ‘natural’.
smoky flavours in products such as This year’s focus was on the regulatory David Baines continued with a
barbeque flavoured crisps. PureTech, landscape, the consumer landscape comparison between EU and US
the company’s revolutionary patented and the ongoing challenges of legislation on the subject summarising
smoke filtration technology, is being authenticating natural ingredients. the EU criteria that a natural flavour
used to create the ‘next generation’, of After welcoming remarks from must therefore be 1. made from
safe and clean smoky flavours for e.g. David Baines of Flavour Horizons, Jan natural source materials 2. prepared
rice pouches and crisps. Besmoke’s Verhoeven of the European Flavour using traditional processes and
Pure Tech processes enable the Association (EFFA) Working Group 3. found in nature. The UK will be
reduction of carcinogens and the use on Natural Processes, discussed the adopting EU regulations post-Brexit.
of Puremani reduces sugars. complex definitions of what is meant In the US natural flavourings must
Finally delegates were invited by ‘natural flavours’, whether those be derived from natural starting
back into the seventies for a flavours come from food or non-food materials and must also be Generally
colourfully themed presentation sources. The starting point for the Recognised As Safe (GRAS) listed. The
by Mane, evoking the ‘limitless discussion is that consumers regard FDA (Food and Drug Administration)
happiness’ of the decade with its ‘natural’ as ‘good, desirable and safe’ in fact discourages the food industry
vintage themed table. and that this is not necessarily always from using the word ‘natural’ on
Although travel and working true. ‘The industry cannot follow the labels because of its ambiguity. They
restrictions are changing working (undefined) consumers’ opinion but gave up on attempts to formally
and conference habits the benefits is bound by the regulations, primarily define the term ‘natural’ in 1993.
of bringing product innovations EC 1334/2008’. The EU definitions state The IOFI guidelines determine that
and creative flavourists together for that a natural flavouring substance natural flavouring substances are
practical flavour and aroma session is one that is identified in nature i.e. derived from natural materials using
cannot be underestimated. identified in materials of plant, animal, permissible processes. There are
On day two the usual conference microbial or mineral origin. It also many oxymorons surrounding the use
health and safety briefing had the, states that such substances can be of ‘natural’ as a description that can
now familiar, instructions on using processed by appropriate physical, be confusing to the consumer and
biocide wipes and a reminder of the enzymatic or microbial processes to Baines called for clearer definitions.
Autumn 2020 ICATSNews 17
In summary the simple concept of and well defined labelling. In a • Veganism – the rise of PLNT PWR,
‘natural’ in the mind of the consumer, Sentient survey of 5,000 Americans, now a lifestyle cornerstone
is far from simple from the perspective 61% strongly agreed that ‘when • Under the sea – sustainability vs.
of regulators and therefore producers. buying new products, ingredient plastic
Delegates were then introduced labels impact my food and beverage • Question everything – trust and
to the area of authentication of purchasing decisions’. For example traceability – it’s all part of the story
natural products with three detailed the terms ‘natural ginger extract’, • Traditional ‘good and proper’
presentations covering specific ‘natural ginger flavour’, ‘ginger extract’, • ‘Hyperlocal’
research projects. Christina Ramos, ‘ginger flavour’ and ‘artificial ginger Eskins contrasted that historically,
European Operations Manager for flavour’ were compared for their ‘clean savoury snacks primarily involved
Beta Analytic, presented by live label’ perception with the results two key flavours - salt and MSG but
video, having returned to Spain clearly demonstrating the weight today’s market is far more complex
after day one of the event. Her placed on the words ‘natural’ and with people vociferously demanding
research has focused on identifying ‘extract’. There was some variance traceability, healthier options and
the mis-labelling of products and across generations with Boomers redefined food. The company has
detecting (economically motivated) being the most likely to pay a premium observed a number of new food
adulteration using carbon 14 analysis. for foods that contain extracts instead concepts emerging from changing
Sandrine Bodin a Flavourist for of flavours. tastes and buying behaviour including
Solvay, discussed her research into Nick Eskins of Taste Connections savoury twists in Danish pastries
the authentication of natural vanillin. Ltd, stepping in with just 14 hours and yoghurts, conversely combining
Sophie Lavoine-Hanneguelle, R&I notice, presented further research fruit and sweet flavours with things
Manager for Robertet, presented into complex consumer taste drivers that are traditionally savoury and
research into the authentication of the with geographic provenance as vegetables being cooked like
Zanthoxylum genera of peppers with part of the story and introduced meats e.g. vegetable terrines and
cryomilling and DNA analysis as two delegates to the concept of ‘small but ragout. Delegates were introduced
methods trialled. perfectly farmed’. Taste Connection’s to a relatively new product, Salmon
Lewis Jones, Innovation, Analytical research has identified a number of Crisps, made from the often-wasted
& Sensory Manager for Sensient contemporary trends: but nutrient-rich by-product of fish
continued the natural labelling theme • Food production revolution – skin and asked to ponder the future
and the topic of clean labelling, changing attitudes to farming and concept of edible jelly fish – a massive
stressing the market appeal and animal welfare – ‘it’s cool to be potential food source.
consumer demand for more complex kind’
18 ICATSNews Autumn 2020
Far Left: Omega Ingredients
inviting delegates to
discover the flavours
in their ‘Bloody Shame’
alcohol-free cocktail
Left: Sea Chips, the UK’s
first salmon skin crisps.
Credit Nick Eskins,
TasteConnection Ltd
Below: Mane Caption Mane
- imaginatively evoking the
‘limitless happiness’ of the
seventies through flavour
ingredients
The focus returned to authenticity to strengthen integrity through the
as John Points of John Points supply chain. Analytical testing
Consulting explored the role should be more about building a
of analytical testing in ensuring case, sharing intelligence and data in
authenticity. Around 20% of global a collaborative, non-competitive way
food scares related to food fraud, to mitigate risk of false claims and
representing around 2000 cases in interpretation.
2019, but only eight of these related So from Salmon crisps to savoury
to flavouring. ‘Should everything yoghurts – the 12th annual FlavourTalk
be subject to analytical testing? If exhibition and conference did
so, where in the food chain should indeed offer food for thought on
testing take place?’ The reality is that both adventurous consumer-driven
analytical testing is very expensive food trends and the challenges of
and is therefore likely to be used as a appropriate product labelling and
small element of a range of sources authentication of those increasingly
of intelligence that can combine diverse food stories.
Autumn 2020 ICATSNews 19
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