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EXTENSION MASTER GARDENERS
A Program of the University of Tennessee Extension Sequatchie and Bledsoe Counties
Gardening News and Notes
May 2021
2021 SVMG Calendar
• Quarterly Meeting and Tomato Tasting, July 24, 2021 - Pikeville, Bledsoe County Extension office
• August 2021 County Fairs
• Quarterly Meeting November 6, 2021, 9:00 AM Central, Dunlap location to be announced
2021 Area Events and Programs
• Turf Tuesdays – Monthly, first Tuesday April-October, online at http://tiny.utk.edu/TurfTuesday
• June 15, 8 a.m. CDT, Fruits of the Backyard – Middle Tennessee AgResearch and Education Center at Spring Hill
• June 24, 2021, Central Region MG Meeting in Warren County
• July 8, 8 a.m. CDT, Summer Celebration – West Tennessee AgResearch and Education Center at Jackson
• August 26, Turf & Ornamental – TBA, East Tennessee AgResearch and Education Center Plant Sciences Unit at Knoxville
• August 31, 8 a.m. CDT, Fall Gardener’s Festival - Plateau AgResearch and Education Center at Crossville
• September 2, 8 a.m. CDT, Steak and Potatoes – Plateau AgResearch and Education Center at Crossville
• UT Arboretum Butterfly Festival – September 18, 10 a.m. EDT, Forest Resources AgResearch and Education Center – UT
Arboretum Auditorium at Oak Ridge
Friday Focus Series
• July 23- Cut flowers and MGs in TN
• Sept. 24- MGs and Arboretums in Lebanon and Ohio
Friday Focus Series Signup Form: https://forms.gle/bg6HaoSDSGHE5Dc4A
Playlist at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XEhPXe1-zw&list=PL1yNe3Yb9E37WrVhvEZnI07ID_ntc_G2s
UT Publications
D 141 Bermudagrass Lawn Care Calendar - Authored by Tom Samples and Jim Brosnan, Department
of Plant Sciences; Frank Hale and Alan Windham, Department of Entomology and Plant Pathology;
and Robert Florence, Soil, Plant and Pest Center
SP 341 Periodical Cicadas - Authored by Frank A. Hale, originally developed by Harry Williams and
Jaime Yanes Jr., Department of Entomology and Plant Pathology
D 143 Okra For The Tennessee Vegetable Garden - Authored by Natalie Bumgarner, Department of
Plant Sciences
Sequatchie Valley Master Gardeners April 2021
UT Gardens
Plant of the Month
Disease-resistant Basil: New Varieties Bring
Hope in the Fight Against Downy Mildew
Submitted by Holly Jones, horticulturist, UT Gardens, Knoxville
Have you noticed your sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum)
plants suffering from diseased leaves and stems in recent years?
If so, the chances are good that basil downy mildew
(Peronospora belbahrii) is the culprit. This fungus-like pathogen
has been plaguing farmers and home gardeners since it was
identified in the U.S. in 2007. Thankfully, scientists, farmers, and
home gardeners now have science-based tools and advice we
can put to use to save our basil.
One of the most exciting developments has been the recent
release of downy mildew resistant (DMR) varieties. At least six
new varieties from multiple independent breeding programs
Amazel Basil® is a promising variety in the fight against basil
downy mildew. Photo of a specimen in the UT Gardens, have become commercially available in the past few years. So
Knoxville, by H. Jones, courtesy UTIA. far, they are all pretty promising. From Rutgers University we
have ‘Devotion’, ‘Obsession’, ‘Passion’ and ‘Thunderstruck’.
Notice a theme here? They are all named in honor of the Italian tradition associating basil with love. Other varieties are also
available. The retail supplier Johnny’s Selected Seeds is marketing Prospera® from an Israeli breeder, and the Proven
Winners brand has trademarked Amazel Basil® from the University of Florida.
While choosing a resistant cultivar is a key part of a pest management strategy, it is not a silver bullet. Resistance does
not guarantee complete immunity; so, it is best to cover all the angles when trying to prevent this disease. This means
starting with disease-free seeds or plants from a reputable source, providing optimum growing conditions, and learning to
recognize disease symptoms so you can remove infected plants as soon as possible.
Cultural controls (i.e., providing an ideal environment) are important because they help keep the plants healthy as well
as discourage the establishment of pests and diseases. Basil is a warm-season annual that grows best in full sun with fertile
soil that is moist but well-drained. If possible, water at the soil level rather than overhead. Keeping the leaves as dry as
possible and providing good air circulation will create a less hospitable place for downy mildew to flourish. Chemical
controls such as organic and conventional fungicides can be effective if applied regularly. For up-to-date fungicide
recommendations and more detailed information on the disease refer to the Cornell University publication Basil Downy
Mildew (cornell.edu).
The main symptoms to watch for are yellowing leaves beginning toward the bottom of the plant; fuzzy gray spores on
the undersides of the leaves; angular black spots and disfiguration on the leaves; and leaf drop. If you see these
characteristic signs developing, you should harvest the entire plant. The healthy leaves are still safe to eat and removing the
plant will prevent the disease from spreading to other basil plants.
Though the DMR-resistant varieties may develop the disease eventually, they generally stay healthy longer than
traditional varieties, which means the grower can harvest basil for a longer period.
If you are open to a broader flavor palette, you can also opt to grow some of the less common basil varieties like
‘Sweet Dani Lemon’, ‘African Blue Holy’, ‘Spicy Globe’, and ‘Purple Ruffle’. These varieties, as well as a handful of other
licorice- and lemon-flavored types, showed good resistance to downy mildew during a 2018 basil trial at UT Gardens,
Jackson. At the UT Gardens Kitchen Garden in Knoxville, we have grown Amazel Basil® as well as ‘Devotion’ and ‘Obsession’
with decent results. Amazel Basil® showed no signs of downy mildew in 2019 but did develop symptoms towards the end of
the season in 2020. All three of these varieties will be on display for the 2021 growing season. The UT Gardens sites in
Jackson and Crossville have successfully grown Amazel Basil® with no signs of the disease.
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Sequatchie Valley Master Gardeners April 2021
Gardening Tips
“Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of perspiration.”
Lou Erickson
June Gardening
June, the most popular month for weddings, is also all about being outdoors and enjoying nature. June’s a great month
to enjoy the bounty of blooms in the garden.
Jason Reeves, a research horticulturist for the University of Tennessee Gardens in Jackson, says there’s several
things Tennesseans can do in June to benefit their gardens. One is to add annual plants to their beds.
“Just because it's almost summer doesn’t mean it is too late to plant annuals. I often don't get my annuals at home into
the ground until mid to late June. Plants such as sunflowers, zinnias, Mexican sunflowers, cosmos, marigolds, basil, and dill
can still be direct-seeded while purchased plants can be transplanted into the garden.”
Reeves says gardeners should also think about mulch. “During the hot summer months, mulch can be especially useful
for conserving water. Consider mulching your vegetable garden as well as your ornamentals. The mulch not only helps
conserve moisture, but it prevents the splashing of water, reducing the spread of disease. It also adds organic matter to the
soil and prevents many weeds.
Reeves has a few tips to share:
• Trim back catmint (Nepeta) after its first flush of flowers to promote new growth and a second flush of blooms.
• Harvest herbs early in the morning when the essential oil content is at its peak. The best time to harvest most
herbs is just before flowering. This time is when the leaves contain the maximum essential oils.
• Daylilies are in peak bloom in June. It is a good time to buy new daylily selections for your garden to ensure you get
the color you desire. Visit a daylily farm for the best selections, and plant them in full sun for the best flower
production.
• Once daffodil foliage has turned yellow, you can mow or cut it down. If you remove it while it is still green, you
decrease the amount of energy available for the bulb to store, decreasing flower size next year.
• To keep squash, cucumber, and bean plants abundantly producing, harvest them frequently.
• Store leftover vegetable and flower seeds in a cool, dry location to save them for planting next year.
• Water your plants in the morning, if possible, to conserve water and reduce evaporation. Infrequent, deep
watering is better than frequent, shallow watering, since deep watering promotes deep root growth. For best
results, deep-water trees and shrubs once or twice a week and flowers two to three times a week. Most plants
need 1 inch of rainfall per week. Pay attention to how much falls from the sky and water accordingly. If you have
an automatic irrigation system, consider installing a rain sensor that adjusts for rainfall.
• Scout for any issues with pests or diseases at least weekly. Continue cover sprays for fruit trees. If conditions
support disease infection or if you see signs of disease, a protective spray program may be needed for vegetables.
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/W316.pdfextension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/P
B1622.pdf
• Tip pruning of caneberries as well as early picking of small fruits.
• Be on the lookout for maturity in the first corn and bean plantings.
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/D58.pdf
• Manage soil after cool-season crops are removed. Those areas may be a location for a summer cover crop such as
buckwheat to prevent weed growth and add organic matter.
• If a warm-season crop is planted immediately after cool-season crops are removed, make sure to follow a crop
rotation.
• Apply fertilizer to blueberries and other small fruit.
• Some of the latest warm-season crops to be planted are often watermelons and pumpkins as well as sweet
potatoes.
• Make sure your irrigation system is functioning well and manage weeds.
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/W346-D.pdf
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Sequatchie Valley Master Gardeners April 2021
Simple Steps to Healthy Tomatoes
Getting Started
Now that the threat of frost has passed, it’s time to think
about planting tomatoes in your garden.
While botanically it is a fruit, tomatoes (Solanum
lycopersicum) are the most popular garden vegetable grown.
With a little tender loving care and planning growing tomatoes
can be a very rewarding endeavor.
Growing tomatoes successfully begins long before the plant
is in the ground. The first step is site selection. Choose a site with
good natural drainage and full sunlight. A site with medium-
textured, well-drained soil with a good level of organic matter
and supply of nutrients (see W 346-A “The Tennessee Vegetable
Garden: Site Selection and Soil Testing,” for more information on
garden site selection), is best. If you do not have a site with good
soil consider using raised beds (W 346-E “The Tennessee Vegetable Garden: Building and Using Raised Beds”) or containers.
Once a site is selected a soil test is in order. The soil pH and adequate fertilization can be adjusted accordingly based on
the test results (W 346-C “The Tennessee Vegetable Garden: Managing Plant Nutrition” for more information on soil
sampling and testing). Tomato gardens should have at least a 6.1 soil pH with an optimum target range of 6.5 to 6.8.
Keeping the soil pH at the optimum level will allow the plant to take up available nutrients, and minimize disease problems.
Soil test information is available at the Extension office.
Next, select the varieties you plan to grow. Selecting resistant cultivars will minimize disease problems. “The Tennessee
Vegetable Garden: Growing Tomatoes” publication number W 346-H, is a great resource for selection cultivars. The All
America Selections winners are also a great resource (all-americaselections.org/winners/index.cfm) As is the “UT Vegetable
Trial Report” found at https://www.uthort.com/category/trial-info/. Heirloom varieties may be less resistant to diseases
but with a little effort can be grown with success.
Tomato type is also important. Tomatoes can be determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes will “top
themselves” by forming a flower at the growing point. So, they are typically shorter and can be easier to manage in the
garden. The fruit is set over a shorter period. Determinate plants may be best for more concentrated yield for canning while
indeterminate plants may produce over a longer period for fresh eating.
Indeterminate varieties continue to grow and produce both new leaves and new flowers from their primary growing
point. Unless damaged by insects, disease, or stress, indeterminate tomatoes will produce until killed by low temperatures
in the fall. They will require taller stakes and more intensive management, so consider the time available to invest in plant
support, training, disease and pest control, and picking throughout the season.
Avoid purchasing varieties touted simply as “disease-resistant” the diseases should be specified, in the catalog or on
the label. Choose disease-free transplants from a reliable source or you can start your own (“Growing Vegetables From
Seed” SP 291-B).
Planting date can also be important. A date after the last possible frost (typically mid-April in the Valley and late April
on the Plateau) UT recommends April 10 – June 10 for transplants see (Growing Vegetables in Home Gardens PB901 for
dates or check out the Tennessee Vegetable Calendar at
https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/W436.pdf ) April 20 to May 5 depending on elevation is
recommended for this area.
Getting your tomatoes off to a good start is the first step in growing great tomatoes.
Caring for your tomatoes
Now that we have discussed selecting and planting tomatoes, let’s look at caring of your tomatoes.
Water. Tomatoes need water, requiring 1 to 1.5 inches per week. Keeping the root zone moist enough to prevent
wilting is a good practice. But we have periods of dry weather when we do not get enough rain to supply the needed water,
so we need to supply the water. A rain gauge is handy to have, then you will know how much additional water you will need
to add. But don’t rely solely on the rain gauge, watch your plants and even dig a small hole in the garden to see if it is moist
or wet down in the soil. When applying irrigation, apply about 0.5 to 0.75 of an inch of water twice a week, this will reduce
runoff and provide consistent moisture levels in the soil. When watering avoid wetting the leaves, as this can cause
4
Sequatchie Valley Master Gardeners April 2021
diseases. Several irrigation systems can be used in a garden, drip
irrigation systems are the most efficient and best for the plants. If
sprinkler irrigation is the only option, apply at a time when leaves
will dry before nightfall to lower the risk of leaf disease.
Mulching around the plants can be a great way to conserve soil
moisture, control weeds, and protect the plant from soil-borne
diseases. Straw, leaves, grass clippings, or compost can be applied in
a 3 to 6 inches thick layer after planting, but with organic mulches,
you need to make sure the soil has warmed sufficiently, as the
mulch will insulate the soil.
Supporting your plants will help. There are several methods
from staking the tomatoes to cages. Make sure that the system you
use is strong enough to support the plant and that the materials
Mulched and staked tomatoes used will last the full season.
This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed under CC You will need additional fertilizer during the growing season.
BY-SA This is typically called ‘sidedressing’ since the application of fertilizer
is in a small furrow 2-4 inches to the side of the plant. Timing is
important. This is often done after the first cluster of fruit has set and young tomatoes are the size of a golf ball or slightly
smaller. Young tomatoes that are supplied with too much nitrogen will produce vegetative growth with abundant stem and
leaf growth, slowing or reducing fruit set and yield. Sidedressings can be repeated once a month while the plant is bearing.
The most common nutrients applied in a sidedressing are nitrogen and potassium. It is important to know what your soil
can supply, by soil testing, and know what your plant needs, and what you have applied previously.
With a little planning, work, and tender loving care you can grow healthy tomatoes. For more information and details
see: “The Tennessee Vegetable Garden: Growing Tomatoes” which can be found at
https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/documents/w346-h.pdf.
• Backyard Vegetables: The Tennessee Vegetable Garden - Growing Tomatoes W 346-H
• Plant Diseases: Tomato Wilt Problems
• Plant Diseases: Foliar Diseases of Tomato
• Growing Vegetable Transplants for Home Gardens
• Plant Diseases: Blossom-End Rot
• Home Vegetable Garden Disease Control W 316
• 2019 Vegetable Garden Variety Trial Report - Knoxville Location D 91
• 4-H Horticulture and Garden Project Outcomes: 6-9 Years W 413-C
• You Can Control Garden Insects PB 595 2020
• Tennessee Home Vegetable Garden Calendar 2021 W 436
The Extension Master Gardener Program is a program of the University of Tennessee Extension
Sheldon Barker J. C. Rains
County Director & Extension Agent County Director & Extension Agent
Sequatchie Co. Bledsoe Co.
170 Church St PO Box 289
Dunlap, TN 37327 Pikeville, TN 37367
423-949-2611 423-447-2451
UT Extension Sequatchie County web page UT-TSU Extension Bledsoe County Webpage
Sequatchie County Facebook Bledsoe County Facebook
5
MASTER GARDENERS
A Program of the University of Tennessee Extension Sequatchie and Bledsoe Counties
Gardening News and Notes
May 2021 Extra Edition
Extra Edition
Master Gardeners,
Since the May issue went out on May 4, I have gotten emails that contained information I thought you might need
before the June issue.
In the Extra Edition you will find:
The 17-Year Cicadas Can Damage Your Trees ...................................................................................................................... 1
The Spotted Lanternfly ......................................................................................................................................................... 2
Apiary Regulations ................................................................................................................................................................ 2
Sheldon
The 17-Year Cicadas Can Damage Your Trees
Young Trees, Especially Fruit Trees, Most Susceptible
By now you’ve heard the cicadas are coming. In
fact, they are practically here. Entomologists predict
the periodical cicada that are on a 17-year
reproduction cycle will start emerging from the soil in
mass within the next several days, and some early
emergence has been documented in parts of
Tennessee. What you may not have heard is that
those young fruit trees you planted this year, or
maybe in the last few years, are in danger if you have
a large cicada population in your area.
After all the noisy mating, the female periodical
cicada will select woody shoots on trees and cut slits
in the bark in which she will lay her eggs. The cicada
prefers woody growth from the previous year that has
relatively thin, smooth and soft bark and which is
about the same diameter as a pencil. “Even a single
FRUIT TREE GROWERS SHOULD WRAP YOUNG TREES WITH SMALL-GAUGE female cicada may cause a lot of injury,” says David
NETTING OR FABRIC TO PROTECT THE BRANCHES FROM PERIODICAL CICADA EGG Lockwood, a University of Tennessee Extension
LAYING DAMAGE. SHOWN IS AN APPLE TREE WRAPPED WITH NYLON TULLE specialist who works with fruit and nut tree growers.
FABRIC. IMAGE BY F. HALE, COURTESY UTIA. “However, the high cicada populations that are
expected to appear can magnify damage expectations immensely.”Lockwood says injury from cicadas on mature trees,
vines or bushes may result in death or breakage of shoot tips, which, while not pleasing to look at, may cause relatively little
actual damage. However, the potential impact on young plants is much greater. “Entire branches that would grow into
permanent scaffold limbs for fruit and bear a large portion of future crops may be severely injured by the damage to their
bark, thus affecting their productive potential throughout the tree’s life. Preventing damage from occurring on young trees
is much preferred over coping with damage after it has occurred.”
Sequatchie Valley Master Gardeners May 2021 Extra Edition
Frank Hale, UT Extension entomologist, adds that some insecticides can be used to protect plants, but physical
exclusion of cicadas is more effective. “Covering the canopy of young plants with netting having a mesh size of a quarter
inch or less and tying it around the trunk under the lowest limbs will provide a physical barrier to cicada egg laying,” he
recommends. Note that the gauge for most bird netting is too large to prevent cicadas from entering the netting. Hale
recommends mosquito netting, nylon tulle fabric or light-weight spun fabric such as tobacco shade cloth or floating row
covers. The coverings can be safely removed when the male cicadas have stopped their loud calling and all the cicadas have
died off — about six weeks after they emerge.
But wait! Netting alone is not enough to prevent damage to young trees. Lockwood says that unless a frame is used to
suspend the netting so that it does not touch the plant canopy, some young limbs may be damaged where the net lays
directly on small branches. “These areas should be pruned off once nets are removed as this could cause problems for the
trees as they grow,” he says. “These branches should be removed during fall and winter dormant pruning and new shoots
encouraged to grow and take their place. Even if just the terminal portion of a new scaffold limb is damaged, removing the
entire branch and encouraging the growth of a new replacement shoot is preferable to heading a branch back to just below
the damaged area as this could cause problems in developing a good scaffold limb.”
Lockwood adds that owners should remove and destroy damaged tips from branches within four to six weeks following
egg laying. This will prevent nymphs hatched from eggs on the infested tree from entering the soil and feeding on tree
roots.
Both experts say that over time the slits made by the egg-laying cicadas can serve as openings to a number of diseases
and pests that can damage the tree or fruit. Secondary issues that may develop include woolly apple aphids on apple trees
and lesser peach tree borers on stone fruit trees.
Through its land-grant mission of research, teaching and extension, the University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture
touches lives and provides Real. Life. Solutions. utia.tennessee.edu.
The Spotted Lanternfly
The Tennessee Department of Agriculture is asking folks to be aware of
the spotted lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula). The invasive planthopper,
native to China, likely arrived in North America hidden on goods imported
from Asia. According to the USDA: “Juvenile spotted lanternflies, known as
nymphs, and adults prefer to feed on the invasive tree of heaven (Ailanthus
altissima) but also feed on a wide range of crops and plants, including
grapes, apples, hops, walnuts, and hardwood trees. The insects suck sap
from stems and branches which can weaken and damage the plant. This
feeding also leaves behind a sticky, sugary residue called honeydew that
attracts other insects and promotes the growth of sooty mold, which can
further damage the plant.”
Learn more at:
https://extension.psu.edu/spotted-lanternfly
https://www.aphis.usda.gov/aphis/ourfocus/planthealth/plant-pest-and-disease-programs/pests-and-
diseases/sa_insects/slf
Information sent to me is attached at the end of this newsletter
Apiary Regulations
Attached is a handout containing some of the main points from Tennessee’s Apiary Law. There is also a direct link to
the state apiary webpage so regulations can be viewed in more detail.
2
United States Department of Agriculture
Pest Alert Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service
Plant Protection and Quarantine
Spotted Lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula)
The spotted lanternfly is an invasive
pest, primarily known to feed on tree
of heaven (Ailanthus altissima) but
has many other host plants, including
grape, hop, apple, stone fruit, maple,
poplar, walnut, and willow. The insect
changes hosts as it goes through its
developmental stages. Nymphs feed
on a wide range of plant species,
while adults prefer to feed and lay
eggs on tree of heaven (A. altissima).
Spotted lanternflies are invasive and
can spread rapidly when introduced to
new areas. While the insect can walk,
jump, or fly short distances, its long-
distance spread is facilitated by people
who move infested material or items
containing egg masses. If allowed to
spread in the United States, this pest
could damage the country’s grape,
orchard, and logging industries.
Distribution
Adult spotted lanternfly
The spotted lanternfly is present in
China, Japan, South Korea, Taiwan,
and Vietnam. In 2014, the insect was Description Life Cycle
first detected in the United States in
Pennsylvania. Since then, spotted Adult spotted lanternflies are about The spotted lanternfly lays its eggs
lanternfly infestations have been 1 inch long and one-half inch wide, on smooth host plant surfaces and
detected in Delaware, Maryland, New and they have large and visually on non-host material, such as bricks,
Jersey, and Virginia. striking wings. Their forewings are light stones, and dead plants. Eggs hatch
brown with black spots at the front in the spring and early summer, and
Damage and a speckled band at the rear. Their nymphs begin feeding on a wide
hind wings are scarlet with black spots range of host plants by sucking sap
Both nymphs and adults of spotted at the front and white and black bars from young stems and branches.
lanternfly cause damage when at the rear. Their abdomen is yellow Adults appear in late July and tend
they feed, sucking sap from stems with black bars. Nymphs in their early to focus their feeding on tree of
and branches. This can reduce stages of development appear black heaven (A. altissima) and grapevine
photosynthesis, weaken the plant, and with white spots and turn to a red (Vitis vinifera). As the adults feed,
eventually contribute to the plant’s phase before becoming adults. Egg they excrete sticky, sugar-rich fluid
death. In addition, feeding can cause masses are yellowish-brown in color, (honeydew). The fluid can build up on
the plant to ooze or weep, resulting and most are covered with a gray, plants and on the ground underneath
in a fermented odor, and the insects waxy coating prior to hatching. infested plants, causing sooty mold
themselves excrete large amounts of to form.
fluid (honeydew). These fluids promote
mold growth and attract other insects.
Where To Look
Spotted lanternfly adults and
nymphs frequently gather in large
numbers on host plants. They
are easiest to spot at dusk or at
night as they migrate up and down
the trunk of the plant. During
the day, they tend to cluster near
the base of the plant if there is
adequate cover or in the canopy,
making them more difficult to Spotted lanternfly nymphs are black with white spots in early stages of development and turn red before
see. Egg masses can be found on becoming adults.
smooth surfaces on the trunks of
host plants and on other smooth
surfaces, including brick, stone,
and dead plants.
Report Your Findings
If you find an insect that you
suspect is the spotted lanternfly,
please contact your local Extension
office or State Plant Regulatory
Official to have the specimen
identified properly.
To locate an Extension specialist
near you, go to the U.S. Department
of Agriculture (USDA) website
at nifa.usda.gov/Extension. A Covered and uncovered egg masses
directory of State Plant Regulatory
Officials is available on the
National Plant Board website at
www.nationalplantboard.org/
membership.
Cluster of adults on the trunk of a tree at night
APHIS 81-35-024
Revised August 2019
USDA is an equal opportunity provider, employer, and lender.
Spotted Lanternfly Management
for Residents
E. Smyers
Introduction
Quick Facts
Spotted lanternfly (SLF), Lycorma delicatula, is an inva-
• SLF is a destructive invasive pest threatening
sive planthopper, native to Asia, that was first detected in
agricultural and ornamental plants.
southeastern Pennsylvania in 2014. It feeds on many plants,
• As of May 2020, 26 counties in Pennsylvania are
including economically important crops like grapevines and
under quarantine for SLF. SLF has also been found
ornamentals. If you think you have SLF, do not panic! First, in 5 other states in the northeastern U.S.
make sure the insect you are seeing is the spotted lanternfly.
• SLF does not bite or sting.
Second, learn about its life cycle and habits. Third, determine
• SLF does not kill all trees it feeds on. SLF is a plant
what plants it is infesting and what it is not. Fourth, employ
stressor that, along with other stressors, can cause
effective management strategies at the proper time of the year. significant damage to its host.
• Stop the spread of SLF by checking your car and
Identification and Life Cycle any outdoor equipment (grills, mowers, firewood,
etc.) when going in and out of the quarantine zone.
There is one generation of SLF per year. The eggs are laid in the
fall and hatch in the spring. Egg masses are laid on hard sur- • Manage SLF on your property by scraping and
destroying eggs, carefully using bands or traps on
faces (trees, decks, houses, outdoor equipment, rocks, etc.) and
trees, removing preferred hosts, and using regis-
protected with a mud-like covering. Each egg mass contains tered insecticides for control when appropriate.
30–50 eggs. After hatching and before reaching adulthood, SLF
goes through four nymphal stages. Nymphs are small (⅛ to ½
inch) and can be hard to find. The first three stages (instars) are and are active until winter. This is the most obvious and easily
all black with white spots, and the last instar is red with white detectable stage because they are large (~1 inch) and highly
dots and black stripes (Figure 1). SLF adults emerge in July mobile. Adults have black bodies with brightly colored wings.
A. Egg mass
Found September—June
B. E
arly nymph (actual size = ¹/8")
Found late April—July
C. L ate nymph (actual size = ½")
Found July—September
D. Adult, wings closed (actual size = 1")
A B ACTUAL SIZE: ¹/8" C ACTUAL SIZE: ½" D ACTUAL SIZE: 1" E Found July—December
E. Swackhamer PA Department of Agriculture PA Department of Agriculture PA Department of Agriculture PA Department of Agriculture E. Adult, wings open
Figure 1. The life stages of SLF, including an egg mass on a tree.Only the adults can fly. SLF wings remain closed while they are become coated with honeydew and sooty mold. This mold
feeding and walking. SLF forewings are gray with black spots, is generally harmless to people but can damage the plant. If
and the tips of the wings are black with gray veins. you see sooty mold or sticky areas on a plant or tree, it may be
infested by SLF, but it could also be infested with other insects
Current Distribution that produce honeydew, such as aphids, leafhoppers, or scales.
Therefore, it is important to identify the cause of the mold, as
and Reporting control measures may differ for pests other than SLF.
An SLF quarantine is currently in effect for 26 counties in There is no way to prevent SLF from moving onto your
Pennsylvania (Figure 2). More counties may be added to the property. Be aware that SLF is very mobile and management
quarantine if additional populations of SLF are confirmed. If actions must be continuous to keep them controlled.
you find a spotted lanternfly, kill it and report it immediately Consequences of direct feeding damage to the host trees
with the Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture’s online have not been quantified. SLF does not kill every tree on which
reporting system at extension.psu.edu/spotted-lanternfly or it feeds. Some plants are at more risk than others. Plant death
by calling 1-888-4BAD-FLY (1-888-422-3359). has only been observed in grapevines, tree-of-heaven, and
some tree saplings. SLF is a plant stressor that, in combination
with other stressors (e.g., diseases, weather), can cause signif-
icant damage to host plants. Following high infestation levels,
flagging and canopy dieback of black walnut, willow, staghorn
LUZERNE
sumac, and maple have been reported. It is possible that after
COLUMBIA
MONROE
heavy feeding, multiple years of sustained damage, or particu-
CARBON
NORTHUMBERLAND
NORTHAMPTON larly dry years, SLF may cause significant damage to ornamen-
BEAVER
tal and shade trees. However, currently SLF is predominantly
MIFFLIN SCHUYLKILL
LEHIGH
JUNIATA
ALLEGHENY BLAIR
considered a nuisance pest for residents, and death has not
BERKS
PERRY DAUPHIN BUCKS
LEBANON
HUNTINGDON MONTGOMERY
CUMBERLAND
LANCASTER
CHESTER
been reported in any ornamental tree.
DELAWARE
YORK
PHILADELPHIA
Not found Present
Seasonal Host Phenology
Figure 2. The counties under quarantine for SLF in Pennsylvania as
of May 2020, indicated in blue. Check the Pennsylvania Department SLF has a broad host range and has been recorded feeding on
of Agriculture’s website for updated distribution information. over 65 different plant species. Despite this broad host range,
some plants appear to be more favorable to SLF than others.
Numerous variables appear to determine the attractiveness
Feeding Damage of a particular plant, including what other plants species are
SLF is capable of causing serious damage to host plants, available in the nearby landscape, the health of the plant, the
including oozing sap from the trees, wilting, leaf curling, and time of year, the SLF population size, and how long SLF has
tree dieback. SLF feeds using a piercing-sucking mouthpart been present in the area. We emphasize that not every tree
tapped into the plant like a straw. When SLF feeds, it excretes needs to be treated. Scout the area first, and then consider
honeydew, a sugar-rich liquid waste product. Honeydew serves treating if high populations are found. Nymphs, in particular,
as a substrate for sooty mold, fungi that thrive in sugary envi- seem to have an especially large host range, whereas adults
ronments. SLF expels significant amounts of honeydew, and seem to depend more on certain hosts. Table 1 lists the key
often the plant surface and the area around infested plants plant hosts of SLF and the time at which SLF are most likely
Table 1. Key plant hosts of SLF throughout the growing season.
Nymphs Adults
Host
May June July August September October
Rose (cultivated, multiflora, etc.)
Grape (wild and cultivated)
Tree-of-heaven
Black walnut, butternut
River birch
Willow
Sumac
Silver/red maple
-2-to be found on these hosts. This table does not represent a Steps of Spotted Lanternfly Management
comprehensive list of the plants on which SLF feeds; rather, 1 Stop the spread
it shows the patterns of SLF feeding that have been observed
through the season. Plants are less likely to serve as hosts for 2 Scrape egg masses
SLF as they begin to senesce at the end of the growing season. 3 Use tree traps to catch nymphs
The patterns in host use may change with varying weather
conditions, region, and other undetermined factors. 4 Remove host plants
5 Apply insecticides
Management
Stop the Spread
PA Department of Agriculture
When you travel in and out of the quarantine zone, check your
car and any outdoor items you are moving (grills, outdoor
furniture, landscaping supplies, mowers, etc.). Check for SLF
Elizabeth Finlay
egg masses from September through June. Remember that egg
masses may be underneath your car or in your wheel wells.
During all other times of the year, check for nymphs and adults, Figure 3. Scraping SLF egg Figure 4. A banded tree covered
and keep your windows rolled up when you park. Don’t store masses from a tree. in chicken wire to prevent mam-
mal and bird bycatch.
things or park under infested trees, and don’t move firewood.
any tree, but we recommend only banding trees where SLF is
Egg Scraping abundant. You can use either sticky bands or a funnel-style
Walk around your property to check for egg masses on trees, trap. Sticky bands may be purchased online or from your
cement blocks, rocks, and any other hard surface. If you find local garden center. Push pins can be used to secure the band.
egg masses on your property from September to May, you can While some bands may catch adults, banding trees is most
scrape them off using a plastic card or putty knife (Figure 3). effective for nymphs. Be advised that birds and small mam-
Scrape them into a bag or container filled with rubbing alco- mals stuck to the bands have been reported. To avoid this,
hol or hand sanitizer and keep them in this solution perma- you should cage your sticky bands in wire or fencing material
nently. Egg masses can also be smashed. Remember that some wrapped around the tree. Alternately, try reducing the width
eggs will be unreachable at the tops of trees, in other well-hid- of the band, so that less surface area is exposed to birds and
den areas, and throughout your neighborhood and commu- other mammals. Both of these methods will still capture SLF
nity. Be aware that this method may not reduce the number of effectively. To eliminate the risk of catching birds and mam-
nymph or adult SLF you see later in the year. mals, you can use funnel-style traps that consist of mesh
wrapped around the tree that leads into a container to trap
Tree Traps SLF (Figure 5). Some companies may be producing these traps
After the eggs hatch, nymphs will walk up the trees to feed on commercially, or you could also make your own. The mesh
the softer new growth of the plant. Nymphs frequently fall to (e.g., plastic netting) should be wrapped around the entire
the ground, walk to trees, and walk back up the trunks. Take circumference of the tree and funnel into a container (e.g.,
advantage of this behavior by wrapping tree trunks in tree inverted peanut butter jar or plastic bag) with a hole in the lid
traps to catch the nymphs (Figure 4). Traps can be used on to allow SLF nymphs and adults to pass through. Read more
Table 2. Select management options appropriate for the time of year.
Control Options Jan. Feb. March April May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec.
Don’t move any life stage
Scrape/smash eggs
Use tree traps (e.g., sticky bands with wildlife barrier)
Contact insecticides (after hatch and avoid bloom)
Systemic application of imidacloprid (after bloom)
Systemic application of dinotefuran (after bloom)
-3-PA Department of Agriculture
Emelie Swackhamer
Figure 5. A funnel-style trap wrapped around a tree to capture SLF. Figure 6. Early instar SLF feeding on the invasive plant tree-of-heaven.
about trapping SLF in “Using Traps for Spotted Lanternfly removing the tree. Failure to apply herbicide will result in new
Management” at extension.psu.edu/using-traps-for-spotted growth from the stump and/or roots. Even when treated with
-lanternfly-management. Check and change traps at least herbicide, multiple applications may be necessary over time to
every other week (or more often in highly infested areas). Be completely kill the tree. These trees can get very tall, so seek
aware that this method may not reduce the number of nymph the help of a tree care service if necessary.
or adult SLF you see later in the year. Other undesirable invasive species, such as oriental bit-
tersweet, can support populations of SLF and can also be
Host Removal removed. While tree-of-heaven is a preferred host, SLF feeds
Tree-of-heaven (Ailanthus altissima) is an invasive plant that on a large variety of plants, including many of the ornamental
is common in landscapes and disturbed areas, such as along trees commonly found in residential landscapes. Removing
the sides of roads (Figure 6). This is a preferred host tree for these may not be preferred and may not help reduce SLF on
SLF, and current management efforts are focused on remov- your property; refer to the next section for further guidance.
ing it or using it as a trap tree by treating it with insecticide.
Tree-of-heaven grows rapidly; it can reach up to 100 feet tall Chemical Control
and 6 feet in diameter. The bark of mature tree-of-heaven Only use insecticides that are registered by the Environmental
looks similar to the outside of a cantaloupe. When crushed, Protection Agency (EPA) to treat any insect on your prop-
the leaves and stems have a foul odor that many describe as erty. All EPA-registered insecticides have an EPA registration
rotten peanut butter. They spread by seed and will also pro- number and a label for safe, appropriate, and legal use. Home
duce “clones” by their roots. This tree can be mistaken for remedies should not be used against SLF because they may be
other native species, including black walnut, hickory, and unsafe to humans, pets, and plants and could be illegal.
staghorn sumac. For help identifying and controlling this Insecticides can kill insect pests on contact and/or by
plant, visit extension.psu.edu/spotted-lanternfly. being present systemically in a plant on which they feed. The
Use recommended methods to apply herbicide to the duration of control that remains after application (i.e., resid-
tree from July to September and wait at least 30 days before ual activity) varies depending on which type of insecticide is
-4-used. Contact insecticides kill SLF when the chemical con- idents). Systemic insecticides can work well and have residual
tacts the insect as a direct spray. Some contact insecticides activity that lasts from several weeks to several months. Prop-
have long residual activity and can continue killing SLF when erty owners should consider hiring a certified pesticide appli-
they walk over a surface covered with insecticide residue. Sys- cator to make insecticide applications. Professional applicators
temic insecticides are absorbed by tree roots, bark, or leaves have specialized training and equipment to treat trees.
and are moved through its vascular system to other parts of Insecticides that are available to home gardeners can be
the tree. When systemic insecticides are used, SLF is killed used as soil drenches, bark sprays, or direct sprays. They must
as it feeds on any part of the tree, even if it was not sprayed be used according to the directions on the product label.
directly (e.g., spraying the lower part of the tree will protect Direct sprays of contact insecticides are applied directly to
the treetops). Systemic insecticides work best when applied SLF and surfaces where they feed and walk, which is often
from July to September. However, systemics can also be the base of a tree where spotted lanternflies are abundant.
applied at other times of year, depending on the application Systemic insecticides can be applied using any of the meth-
method and the product used. For example, a soil drench con- ods listed on the label, but keep in mind that systemics take
taining imidacloprid should be applied earlier in the summer. time to move into the tree. Systemic insecticides should only
There are four main methods to apply insecticides: tree be applied to actively growing trees, so they should not be
injection (usually applied by professional applicators), bark applied in late fall or winter. You may apply systemic insec-
sprays, soil drenches, and direct sprays (can be applied by res- ticides as a soil drench around the base of the tree, as a bark
Table 3. Contact insecticides to control nymph and adult SLF.
Toxicity Toxicity Toxicity Activity Residual
Active Ingredient
to Birds to Fish to Bees Against SLF Activity
Bifenthrin M H H Excellent Excellent
Beta cyfluthrin S H H Excellent Excellent
Carbaryl S N H Excellent Good
Zeta-cypermethrin S H H Excellent Poor
Malathion M H H Excellent Poor
Natural pyrethrins1 N H M Excellent Poor
Tau fluvalinate + tebuconazole H H N Excellent Poor
Neem oil1 — H H Good Poor
Insecticidal soaps1 N N N Good Poor
Essential/botanical oils1, 2 — — — Good Poor
Paraffinic oil or horticultural spray oil1 — — — Good Poor
Spinosad1 S S H Variable Poor
Beauveria bassiana N N S Under evaluation Poor
N = nontoxic; S = slightly toxic; M = moderately toxic; H = highly toxic; — = data not available.
1. Some products allowed for organic production.
2. T here are many products containing essential oils which vary widely for efficacy against SLF. The two products tested against SLF were “SLF Killer 2” and
“Purely Green.”
Note: The listing of any products in this table is not an endorsement or specific recommendation of the product or the company. Other products with the same
active ingredient should also work in the same way, but they may have different rates or formulations. For use in Pennsylvania, be sure the product is registered
for the site and purpose of use (e.g., vegetable garden versus ornamental trees). This table is based on the experiments we have done to date and should not be
considered final or complete.
Table 4. Systemic insecticides to provide longer periods of control on adult SLF.
Toxicity Toxicity Toxicity Recommended Activity Residual
Active Ingredient Application Method
to Birds to Fish to Bees Timing Against SLF Activity
Dinotefuran — — H Soil drench July to September Excellent Excellent
Dinotefuran — — H Trunk spray July to September Excellent Excellent
Dinotefuran — — H Trunk injection July to September Excellent Excellent
Imidacloprid M M H Soil drench After flower to July Variable Variable
Imidacloprid M M H Trunk injection July to September Good Excellent
N = nontoxic; S = slightly toxic; M = moderately toxic; H = highly toxic; — = data not available.
Note: This table is based on the experiments we have done to date and should not be considered final or complete.
-5-spray on the trunk of the tree, or as a direct spray on the ticide goes directly into the tree. Soil drench applications should
leaves of the tree. Systemic insecticides can also be injected only occur directly adjacent to the trunk of the tree, as directed
into a tree, but this requires special equipment by tree care on the label. Soil drenches should not be applied to sandy soils
professionals. Bark sprays have been shown to work well for or where the water table is shallow. Both dinotefuran and imi-
SLF control, but some of these products also require being dacloprid can persist in groundwater for extended periods.
mixed with a penetrant, which allows the insecticide to pene- When exposed to sun, both of these compounds break down
trate the bark and move into the tree. You must read the label readily. To protect surface water, systemic insecticides should
of the insecticide you purchase to determine whether it should not be applied near open water sources (ponds, lakes, streams).
be used as a soil drench, bark spray, or direct spray.
Soil drenches of systemic insecticides are applied into the Pollinators and Other Insects
soil around the trunk of the tree. The insecticide is taken up Many of the trees on which SLF have been observed feeding
by the roots and moved into the rest of the tree. Ideally, soil in high densities are also pollinated by bees (e.g., maples and
drenches work best when applied in the early summer to oaks). It is possible that trees treated with systemic insecti-
trees that had high SLF populations in the past and are likely cides could have insecticide residue in the flowers and nectar
to have them again. To protect pollinators, soil drenches of the following spring. Neonicotinoid insecticides, in particular,
systemic insecticides should be applied after a tree’s flowers have been associated with bee health decline. Additionally,
have faded. Soil drenches and bark sprays of systemic insec- there are many native insects that utilize these trees at the
ticides may take several days or weeks to move within the same time as SLF (e.g., caterpillars, beetles, lady beetles, lace-
entire tree; so, unlike contact sprays, you should not expect wings, parasitoid wasps) and could be affected by the treat-
immediate results. Depending on the product and rates ment. Pyrethroids can also be damaging to beneficial insect
used, soil drenches, bark sprays, and injections have the populations and could cause populations of secondary pests,
advantage of longer residual activity (several weeks to sev- such as mites and scale, to increase. Generally, systemic insec-
eral months) over contact insecticide applications. ticides are considered to have a reduced impact on beneficial
In Tables 3 and 4 on the previous page, the name of the insects compared to broad-spectrum foliar-applied insecti-
product is listed, along with the mode of exposure, legal use, cides. We are currently conducting research to determine the
activity ranking against SLF, and residual activity (how long effect of SLF treatments on pollinators and other nontargets.
it stays active). Specific products listed are not an endorse-
ment. Note that most available insecticides registered for use These recommendations are current as of May 2020 and
in Pennsylvania will not have SLF listed as a target pest on the may change as we learn more. We encourage you to stay
label. If the intent is to treat ornamental plants infested with up to date by visiting extension.psu.edu/spotted-lanternfly.
SLF on the property, select insecticides specifically labeled Check for the newest version of this fact sheet and always
for use on ornamental trees and shrubs. Pennsylvania law look for the most up-to-date information. When using any
allows the application of an insecticide for control of a pest pesticide, follow the pesticide label for directions, applica-
not listed as long as the site is included on the label. Research tion rates, methods, and appropriate protective equipment.
is ongoing to identify the insecticides that are most effective
on SLF while posing the least risk to humans, pets, beneficial Revised by Heather Leach, Emelie Swackhamer, Amy Korman, and
insects, and the environment. Additional field trials are being Brian Walsh. Originally prepared by Heather Leach, David Biddinger,
and Greg Krawczyk.
conducted to test the efficacy and residual activity of a wider
range of the insecticides that are available to residents. We
have not yet evaluated nontarget effects of listed insecticides This fact sheet was produced by Penn State Extension in collaboration with the Pennsylva-
nia Department of Agriculture and the United States Department of Agriculture.
on beneficial insects, including pollinators. We do not recom-
mend treating your entire property since these insecticides extension.psu.edu
are not specific to SLF and beneficial insects may be affected Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences research and extension programs are funded
in part by Pennsylvania counties, the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, and the U.S.
as well. Only treat areas where SLF is abundant. Department of Agriculture.
Where trade names appear, no discrimination is intended, and no endorsement by Penn
State Extension is implied.
Potential Nontarget Effects of Insecticides This publication is available in alternative media on request.
Penn State is an equal opportunity, affirmative action employer, and is committed to pro-
Water Contamination viding employment opportunities to all qualified applicants without regard to race, color,
religion, age, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, national origin, disability, or pro-
Every precaution should be taken to protect surface water and tected veteran status.
Produced by Ag Communications and Marketing
groundwater from pesticide contamination. Trunk injections
© The Pennsylvania State University 2020
pose the smallest risk to contaminating water because the insec- Code EE0225 Rev08/20pdf
-6-Spotted Lanternfly: What to Look For
Spotted Lanternfly, Lycorma delicatula, is a new
threat to Pennsylvania and the United States,
and experts are still learning how to combat it.
Life Stages of Spotted Lanternfly All life stages of the
spotted lanternfly, from egg to adult.
Spotted Lanternfly Egg Masses - Fresh Freshly laid egg
masses, which are about 1” long and laid on hard surfaces,
including trees, stones, patio furniture, etc. The egg masses
are covered in a white putty-like substance, which age over
time to look like cracked mud. Image by Erica Smyers.Spotted Lanternfly Egg Masses - Old Old egg masses, which Late Stage Nymph of Spotted Lanternfly A late stage nymph
have the putty or mud-like covering worn off. Here, you can see (4th instars). These are the last nymph stage before becoming
each individual seed-like egg. Image by Pennsylvania adults. They are ~1/2 inch long, and are bright red, covered in
Department of Agriculture. black stripes and white spots. They are strong jumpers, and will
jump when prodded or frightened. Image by Dalton Ludwick.
Early Stage Nymph of Spotted Lanternfly An early stage
nymph (1st-3rd instars). These hatch from the eggs and are Late Stage Nymphs and Adult Spotted Lanternfly A group
just a few millimeters in length. As they age, they grow to be of the late stage 4th instar nymphs, and an adult. Photo by
~1/4 inch long. The have black bodies and legs, and are Steve Ausmus.
covered in bright white spots. They are strong jumpers, and will
jump when prodded or frightened. Image by Dalton Ludwick.
Early Stage Nymphs of Spotted Lanternfly Feeding Several
early stage nymphs feeding on a tree-of-heaven. Early instars
tend to feed on the new growth of a plant, such as the stems
and foliage. Image by Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture.
Page 2 Spotted Lanternfly: What to Look ForAdult Spotted Lanternfly- Open-wings An adult spotted
lanternfly with its wings open. While spotted lanternfly adults
can fly, they often prefer to jump and glide. You will see their
wings when they are flying and gliding. You may also see them
when they are frightened, or when they have been poisoned
with an insecticide. Photo by Pennsylvania Department of
Agriculture.
Adult Spotted Lanternfly - Top-view The top-view of a
spotted lanternfly adult. Adults are about 1” long. The females
tend to be slightly larger than the males. Photo by Mike Houtz.
Adult Spotted Lanternfly - Group feeding A large group of
spotted lanternfly adults, feeding at the base of a tree. Photo by
Emelie Swackhamer.
Adult Spotted Lanternfly - Side-view The side-view of a
spotted lanternfly adult. Photo by Dalton Ludwick.
Page 3 Spotted Lanternfly: What to Look ForLife Cycle of Spotted Lanternfly The life cycle of spotted lanternfly, beginning from egg to adult. There is one generation per year in Pennsylvania. Adults die in the winter, and the eggs overwinter and hatch in the spring. Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences research and extension programs are funded in part by Pennsylvania counties, the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Where trade names appear, no discrimination is intended, and no endorsement by Penn State Extension is implied. This publication is available in alternative media on request. Penn State is an equal opportunity, affirmative action employer, and is committed to providing employment opportunities to all qualified applicants without regard to race, color, religion, age, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, national origin, disability, or protected veteran status. © The Pennsylvania State University 2020 Code: ART-3725 Page 4 Spotted Lanternfly: What to Look For
• Beekeepers must register their hives with TDA • There are over 6,000 registered beekeepers in TN • TDA has a state apiarist and apiary inspectors to inspect bees • Bees must be inspected before being sold or moved For more information, Go to the link below: https://www.tn.gov/agriculture/businesses/bees.html Plants for Pollinators or call 615-837-5342 for more information Red maple, Tulip Poplar, Pussy willows, Coreopsis Honey bee Facts: Coneflowers, Joe-Pye weed, Rudbeckia, Beebalm, The Honey Bee is the official state agricultural insect in Tennessee Allium, Helianthus, Baptisia, Gaillardia and Salvia. All worker bees are female For more information on planting for pollinators: A Queen can lay up to 2,000 eggs a day www.pollinator.org Are you interested in Beekeeping? UT Extension Pub. 1745 is a great place to start https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/documents/PB1745.pdf UT Apiculture – Entomology & Plant Pathology (tennessee.edu) Tennessee Beekeeper’s Association
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