Hilton Dinner, Bon Ton Bakery, remembered - The Tomato
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Take a bite of your city | thetomato.ca 01 02 2021 Hilton Dinner, Bon Ton Bakery, remembered
Contents
Editor
Mary Bailey
marybee@telus.net
Publisher
BGP Publishing
Copy Editor
Shauna Faragini
Contributing Writers
Peter Bailey
Features
Dylan Greenhough
Iain Ilich 6 Brunch worth doing
Illustration/Photography We asked several chefs for their favourite brunch dishes
Curtis Comeau Photography
Patrick Kerby 12 Getting to know pita
The simple yet extraordinary staple | Iain Ilich
Design and Prepress
Bossanova Communications Inc.
20 A young man’s quest
WebMeister Dylan Greenhough
Gunnar Blodgett, COPA Jurist
Printer 22 Hilton Dinner, Bon Ton Bakery, remembered
Friends and food people reminisce | Mary Bailey
Distribution
Greenline Distribution Departments
For editorial inquiries, information,
letters, suggestions or ideas,
contact The Tomato at 780.431.1802
5 Dish
or email production@thetomato.ca. Gastronomic happenings around town
For advertising information
call 780.431.1802. 14 Wine Maven
The Tomato is published
six times per year:
16 Beer Guy
Brewing love | Peter Bailey
January/February
March/April
May/June
18 Drinks
July/August Let’s get hygge: warm drinks for cold days | Mary Bailey
September/October
November/December
by BGP Publishing
9833 84 Avenue
Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1
780.431.1802
Subscriptions are available
for $25 per year.
On the cover: Illustration of Hilton Dinner by Patrick Kerby, workwithrye.ca.
thetomato.ca
The Tomato | January February 2021 3
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A monthly wine subscription SAT 9-3
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EDMONTON DOWNTOWN
Join now at www.goodgrape.ca INDOOR MARKET
10305 97 St NW
Dish gastronomic happenings around town
dalla tavola why not is no more
The beloved Zenari’s in Manulife closed due to fire
last March. But that was not the end of “My parents saw it on the news,” says
the Zenari story. Elisa Zenari, along with Levi Biddlecombe, owner of the second-
her brother Giancarlo and husband Ran floor eatery Why Not, about how he
Huget have opened Dalla Tavola Zenari learned his resto was gutted by a fire.
(10166 100A Street, 780-540-8920, dalla. “Apparently it started in the attic.”
ca). Enjoy Zenari’s classic breakfast bagel, While his sister has started a Go Fund
spinach risotto and the crostoni as well as Me (gf.me/u/zbtbnq), he’s confident he’ll
new items on the extensive menu of salads, be back. “I have no plan to stop owning
panini, pasta, risotto and mains. They restaurants. It will take more than a fire
also have an complete catering menu and to stop me cooking in Edmonton. We’ll
offer take-out. Check it out! And, check continue with @backstairsburger for
out Elisa’s recipe for an Italian-inspired now. It’s just a matter of time.”
shakshuka on page eight.
no freezing father this year
new chef at madison’s For the past four Januarys, Peter Burgess has spent a few
Chef Chris Hryniuk has joined the kitchen team weeks camping out at the Rainbow Valley campground.
at Madison’s in the Union Bank Inn (10053 Jasper He is the Freezing Father who has raised $148,881.11
Avenue, 780-401-2222, unionbankinn.com). People for the Stollery Children’s Hospital in memory of his
may remember his cooking and wry sense of humour daughter Elan. He committed to Freezing Father for
from Sorrentino’s, or Buco, or even The Butler Did five years. “I intend to keep that promise,” he says.
It. We look forward to tasting Chris’ classic French/ “But there are Covid complications. My mantra is no
modern Canadian take on the menu at Madison’s. one leaves without a hug. I can’t do that right now,”
says Peter.
bar bricco has reopened “Too much about this year is desperate. It’s harsh,
The supremely cosy Bar Bricco (10437 Jasper Avenue, people are battling for their lives, for their physical,
780-424-5588, corso32group.com) has reopened with mental, financial health. The restaurant community
a new socially distant layout and a no walk-in policy. especially, they are just getting crushed. They’ll support
Reservations are a must. What hasn’t changed? The the Stollery in a second, but I could not ask them to
charcuterie and cheese boards, the toothsome focaccia, help this year. It’s a different world.”
the egg in ravioli; not to mention the best Negroni in Many, many chefs made their way down to campsite
town, the vast selection of amari and the killer wine #29 to feed Peter and his guests: Serge Belair
list—oh, how we have missed you. (Edmonton Convention Centre); Steve Buzak (Royal
Glenora Club); Shane Chartrand and JP Dublado
(River Cree Resort); Clayton Folkers, Rylan Krause
just the thing for winter picnics with NAIT Culinary student teams; Ryan Hotchkiss
The Casus Grill Eco-barbecue was created by a Danish (Bündok); Gregg Kenney (Vivo Ristorante); Cindy
couple searching for a better alternative for cooking Lazarenko (Culina); chef Lindsay Porter; Doreen Prei,
on the move. It’s portable, sets up along with her kids Adelaide and Leopold (Zinc);
easily, is flameless, and all the materials Charlie Rothman (Gryfes Bagels); Todd Rutter, also a
used (cardboard and bamboo) are Stollery dad, (A Cappella); Paul
sustainable and biodegradable, except Schufelt (Workshop Eatery).
for the lava stones, which could be Next time you order curbside
turned into the garden and used to pick-up from their restaurants,
improve the soil. Each kit, which say you are doing it for the
weighs about a kilo, has 60 minutes Freezing Father.
burn time. Find at The Butchery
(12229 107 Avenue, 780-443-
0000, thebutcheryyeg.ca, closed From top: Dalla Tavola interior; what’s
left of Why Not; chef Chris Hryniuk’s
Sunday, Monday), $20 for a solo bouillabaisse blanc; a socially-
unit, four pack, $75. distant, but still cosy, Bar Bricco; the
ingenious eco-barbecue from Casus;
Todd Rutter (A Cappella Catering)
Mary Bailey (The Tomato) and Peter
Burgess cook breakfast (2019).
The Tomato | January February 2021 5
Brunch
worth
doing.
We asked several chefs
for their favourite
brunch dishes,
the kind you make
when you have
time and there’s
no pressure,
to enjoy by yourself
or with your people.
Curtis Comeau Photography
Workshop’s Chicken & Waffles
Chocolate Nut Butter Add to the pre-dough: To finish the loaf: liking. Steep with the tea bags for about 5
125 g egg (about 3 medium) 2 egg yolks minutes then discard. Puree slightly with
Stuffed French Toast with a hand blender or leave chunky. The jam
15 g salt 60 ml whipping cream
Cherry and Black Tea Jam should come nicely together.
15 ml rum, gin or vodka Combine and brush on the loaf just
Doreen Prei, executive chef Zinc, 125 g melted butter (about 1 stick) before baking. Bake until golden-brown, Chocolate Nut Butter
Art Gallery of Alberta, CBC Food Columnist 30-35 minutes.
80 g milk 100 g dark chocolate
In a stand mixer add all the ingredients Cherry and Black Tea Jam 100 ml whipping cream
Brioche (for the French toast) and mix with a dough hook. 2 T nut butter (peanut, cashew,
200 g frozen cherries
Make a pre-dough: almond or a combination)
Once mixed, add: pinch salt
50 g sugar pinch salt
450 g sifted flour sugar to taste
100 g flour dash vanilla In a bowl add the chocolate, cream and
Mix on medium-high for about 10
42 g fresh yeast a pinch of salt. Place the bowl over a
minutes. Cover with a kitchen towel and 150 ml dry red wine or port
simmering, not boiling, water bath to
90 g warm milk rest for 2 hours in a warm place. 1 whole star anise melt the chocolate.
Combine the yeast with the warm milk. Preheat the oven to 375ºF. 3 bags black tea or Earl Grey Once melted, remove from the heat
Combine the sugar and the flour. Add Shape the brioche dough into a loaf and Combine all ingredients but the tea and and add the nut butter. Combine well.
everything together and whisk well. place in a buttered loaf pan. Cover with place in a pot. Simmer over low heat for (For the drizzle afterwards, warm the
Cover with a kitchen towel and let it rest a kitchen towel and rest for 2 hours in a about 30 minutes, stir once in a while. chocolate and nut butter back up so it
for 15 minutes in a warm place. warm place until just doubled in size. Add more sugar at the end for your becomes fluid.)
6 January February 2021 | The Tomato
French Toast 1T sugar
4 slices brioche 300 g flour
4T chocolate nut butter 1T grapeseed oil for frying
1 egg Whisk the eggs, milk, sparkling water,
splash milk sugar, butter and salt until combined.
Slowly start adding flour whisking until
2T butter for frying combined and smooth. Refrigerate for 30
icing sugar for dusting minutes.
Beat the egg with a splash of milk. Apply grapeseed oil to a paper towel,
brush your frying pan and then preheat
Spread the chocolate nut butter on
the pan on medium-low heat. Fry the
one slice of the brioche and cover with
crepes until the surface is semi-set and
another slice. Push it down with a little
flip to the other side. Reserve.
bit of pressure and dip both sides of the
brioche into the egg mixture. Repeat. Fill the crepes with sweet ricotta cheese
filling and wrap (rouleau or triangular- 780-705-4928
Heat up a non-stick frying pan to shaped). Fry for a few minutes on low
medium heat and add the butter. Once 12539-102 AVENUE
heat or bake in the oven with brown
the butter is melted add the brioche and butter until heated through. EDMONTON, AB
fry golden brown on both sides.
Serve with your favorite topping—fresh
Cut in half and serve with the cherry fruit, fruit compote, chocolate, caramel,
and black tea jam. Dust with icing sugar, whipped cream.
drizzle a little bit of the warmed-up
chocolate nut butter on top and serve Serves 4-6.
hot. You can also add some crushed nuts,
such as walnuts or hazelnuts and sprinkle Buckwheat Pancakes
over top.
Serves 2. This is a go-to recipe for when we have guests
for brunch at home. This recipe makes regular
pancakes for four people (3 or 4 pancakes per
Crepes with person), or enough small ones (blini) to serve as
an appetizer with smoked salmon. Serve with
Sweet Ricotta Filling back bacon, caramelized onion, grated gruyere
and in-season asparagus, or wilted spinach.
This is a traditional Polish recipe. In Poland Especially nice with chorizo (instead of bacon)
ORDER ONLINE FOR
it is served for brunch, main or dessert. It can and a fresh tomato sauce. Top your pancake
also be adjusted to a savoury crepe by removing stacks with a fried egg to really impress. If you
the sugar and vanilla, adding some herbs and wish to make them gluten free don’t include
CURBSIDE PICKUP
OR DELIVERY
shredded Gouda to the cheese mixture, and the all-purpose flour—100 per cent buckwheat
served with a savory sauce. I have used both pancakes will be slightly more dense and dry.
versions over the years in different restaurants. –Chris Hryniuk, Madison’s Grill
It will be served at the Glasshouse for brunch
in the spring. –Julia Kundera, the Glasshouse 1c buckwheat flour
Kitchen & Bar
¼c flour shop.sherbrookeliquor.com
1t sugar
Sweet Ricotta Filling 1t baking powder
1 kg pressed ricotta cheese ¼t baking soda
(Polish twarog cheese or
pinch salt
farmer’s cheese, usually
available at Italian Centre). 1½ c buttermilk
If you cannot find use Mix all dry ingredients in a bowl. Beat
cream cheese eggs, buttermilk in another bowl.
4 egg yolks Add egg mixture to the dry and mix until
¾c granulated sugar it comes together into a thick batter.
2t vanilla paste or vanilla extract Allow to rest for 10 minutes. Batter will
hold overnight in the fridge.
Mix the cheese in a food processor until
smooth. Add egg yolks, sugar, and vanilla Melt some butter on a griddle or in a
and mix until well blended. well-seasoned cast iron frying pan over
medium heat.
Crepes Using a large spoon drop batter into the
pan and cook until bubbles form on
4 lg eggs
top. Flip and cook until browned, 2-3
500 ml full fat milk minutes. Repeat with remaining batter.
320 ml sparkling water Serves 4.
90 g butter, melted
½t salt Please see “Brunch” on next page
The Tomato | January February 2021 7
Bunch 2T chopped parsley
Roasted Tomato Gratin Shakshuka all’Italiana
Continued from previous page. ¼t baking powder
¾c flour
with Poached Eggs This dish reminds me of travelling in Morocco
with an Italian twist. It will be on the Della
dash salt Okay. I’m bringing out an oldie but goodie.
Tavola menu once we launch brunch. –Elisa
Scandinavian Mix squash, all seasonings and the egg
It really is a great one for late summer when
Zenari, Dalla Tavola Zenari
Rice Porridge
tomatoes are plentiful, but we get great
together. Add the flour and baking tomatoes now year-round and this is good for a
2T extra-virgin olive oil
powder. Divide mixture into ten soft cold day. –Brad and Leanne Smoliak, Kitchen
This is such a comforting and soul satisfying 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
balls. by Brad
dish. It’s incredibly simple to make, inexpensive,
and can be dressed up so many different ways. Heat sauté pan with small amount of oil, 1 sprig rosemary, chopped
4T extra virgin olive oil
If you haven’t had rice porridge, please, give drop each ball into the pan, leaving space 1c cannellini beans, rinsed
it a shot on the next cold day! It can also keep to flatten them. Cook for approximately 2 c good quality crusty baguette,
1 c tomato sauce (homemade or
in the fridge for a few days. If you don’t have hand-torn or cut into ¾-in.
2-3 minutes. Turn over cook for another store bought)
time to heat it up every morning, it works as a pieces
2-3 minutes. Remove and season. ½ c heavy cream (or leftover
cold dish too. Just add a bit of extra milk, stir
1 clove garlic, smashed
it around, top with berries, honey, chia seeds, Makes 10 cakes. cream sauce)
preserves, whatever you want. –Kelsey Johnson 3½ c cherry tomatoes, whole
kosher salt, freshly ground
exec chef Typ Top Bakery and NAIT culinary ½t sugar
instructor Maple Buttered Squash pepper to taste
1 c cooked diced roasted ½t salt 2-4 large eggs
180 g short grain rice (arborio butternut squash pepper, few good grinds 4 slices prosciutto, or chopped
works well) ¼c white wine sliced prosciutto
½c butter
¼t salt 1 oz grated Parmesan flaky sea salt to finish
½c maple syrup
400 mL water 8 eggs Heat oil in a medium skillet over
pinch salt
800 mL milk 2T chiffonade/chopped basil medium heat. Cook the garlic and
½t lemon zest
rosemary, tossing until garlic is golden
Bring water to a boil in a medium-sized In a large sauté pan on low to medium
In a heated sauté pan, add butter and brown and rosemary crisps up slightly
pot over high heat and stream in the rice heat add 3 T of the olive oil and heat,
squash. When the butter has melted, add but isn’t browned, about 30 seconds for
and salt. Whisk often while cooking to add the bread and toss to coat. Stirring
maple syrup. Heat until simmering, add rosemary and 2 minutes for garlic.
avoid sticking to the bottom of the pot. regularly, toast until browned, about 5
Once most of the water is absorbed, lemon zest amd a pinch of salt, pour over Add the beans and tomato sauce to skillet
squash cakes as desired. minutes. Transfer to bowl. In the same
add the milk and continue to cook over and cook, stirring often, until coated,
sauté pan on medium-high heat add the
medium heat, whisking often, until about 1 minute. Mix in cream, season
rest of the olive oil and the tomatoes,
everything is absorbed. It should look like Typ Top Cinnamon Bun garlic, sugar, salt and pepper. The idea is
with kosher salt and lots of pepper and
a nice shiny porridge and have a balance bring to a simmer. Toss in prosciutto
of salt and natural sweet. Bread Pudding to blister the cherry tomatoes. This means
slices then crack eggs into bean mixture
the skin starts to break and the juices
and season them with kosher salt. Cover
Now that the base is made, the fun part This is a great way to use up any cinnamon start to come out. When that is done add
(a baking sheet works great if you don’t
of building your bowl comes in. At buns that have started to go a little crunchy on white wine and bring to a simmer over
have a matching lid) and cook until the
Café Linnea we used Bourbon-soaked the edges, if you’ve managed to keep them in the high heat for 1 full minute until flavours
white parts of eggs are set but yolks are
peaches that were preserved in the house that long. –chef Kelsey Johnson blend.
still runny, about 2 minutes. Remove
height of peach season, crunchy almond Add toasted baguette and transfer to from heat. Finish with sea salt if desired.
butter and lavender infused honey. 4 cinnamon buns
gratin dish or shallow casserole dish. Serve with bread.
Other great combos are the traditional ¾c heavy cream Sprinkle with Parmesan and put into a
cinnamon, butter, dried berries; Serves 2-4.
2 eggs preheated 350ºF oven for 10 minutes.
caramelized pineapple, coconut, ginger,
½c sugar To poach eggs, have a large pot of
lime; pistachio, blackberry, maple syrup;
water ready on simmer (at least 4” deep
Noble Premium Bison
banana, chia seeds, peanut butter. 1t vanilla
water). Add 1 T white vinegar to the Hash Cakes
Serves 4. ¼ c any add-ins you want,
water. Crack each egg in a ramekin first
think nuts, banana slices, This recipe will razzle dazzle your friends and
and then pour that egg into the water.
chocolate chips, etc. family and become your new brunch favourite.
Spaghetti Squash Brunch Only cook 4 eggs at a time. ALWAYS
To save time, braise the bison, bake the potato
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. use a timer. For a firm white and runny
Cakes with Maple yolk you want to poach 3-4 minutes.
and roast the pepper on the day before, then it’s
Slice the cinnamon buns into roughly 6 rock and roll the day of. Recommended with
Buttered Squash to 8 pieces and scoop them into a large
(the Smo’s like a 3- minute egg.). Once eggs of your choice, or a delicious side salad. –
the timer goes off, use a slotted spoon Chef Liana Robberecht
These cakes can be enjoyed solo, or they pair bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together to remove the poached egg and gently
well with friends and family. Recommended: cream, eggs, sugar, and vanilla. Pour the dab with paper towel. Put each egg on
listening to an amazing playlist while making. mixture over the sliced-up buns. Toss well a slightly buttered piece of parchment. Braised Bison
–Liana Robberecht, Calgary chef and culinary to combine and let it soak in. Mix in any Each egg must have its own piece.
artist 1c bison steak cubes
additional add-ins you want at this point.
Once all the eggs are done, take the canola oil for browning
1c cooked spaghetti squash Line a loaf tin with parchment paper gratin out of the oven and slide the eggs 1 carrot, rough chop
and tip the bread mixture in. Bake in off of the parchment on to the gratin. If
½ sm white onion sliced thin, ½ onion, rough chop
the oven for 20-25 minutes or until set the eggs got a little cool, the gratin will
rinsed in cold water, pat dry
in the center and slightly golden brown. heat them quickly. Sprinkle with basil 1 celery stalk, rough chop
1 egg Unmold and allow to cool before slicing. and serve immediately. This goes well 1 garlic clove, smashed
2 green onion, fine chopped Eat as-is or toast in a pan with brown with ham, sausage or good old-fashioned
1T garlic powder butter. Top with maple syrup and enjoy! bacon, Irving’s of course.
1T dried tarragon Serves 4. Serves 4. Please see “Brunch” on page 10.
8 January February 2021 | The Tomato
Brunch
cocktails.
Mixologist James Grant shares some favourites.
Caesar
I like my Caesar smoky, rich and spicy. I think mezcal works best,
but feel free to substitute gin, vodka, or even a peated whiskey.
1.5 oz mezcal
0.5 oz Ancho Reyes Verde chili liqueur
4 oz Walter Craft Caesar Mix or clamato
0.5 oz lemon juice
2 dashes Worcestershire
4 dashes Tapatío hot sauce
Rim a collins glass with caesar spice mix (recipe below), add
ingredients, add ice and stir to combine and chill. Don’t over-stir, as
you don’t want to overdilute the drink. Garnish with a stalk of celery.
Caesar Spice Mix
Combine the following in a non-reactive container:
½c celery salt
1/4 c white sugar
1T cayenne pepper
1T ancho chili powder
Seal container and shake to combine.
Irish Coffee
An all-time favourite of mine. Easy to prep and perfect for the holidays.
1.5 oz Irish whiskey (something rich and assertive like Power's
or Jameson Crested)
0.5 oz rich brown sugar syrup (2 parts brown sugar and 1part
water, heated)
4 oz freshly brewed hot coffee
Combine all ingredients in a coffee mug or Irish coffee glass and stir
briefly to combine. Top with freshly whipped heavy cream and freshly
grated nutmeg.
Garibaldi
EDMONTON’S ONLY
A perfect brunch cocktail that feels a little more exciting than the typical mimosa. RIVER VALLEY RESTAURANT
1.5 oz
4.5 oz
Campari
fresh-squeezed orange juice
OPEN YEAR ROUND
Combine both ingredients in a blender and blend on high speed until
aerated and fluffy. Pour into a collins glass and garnish with a wedge of
orange. It’s that easy.
THEGREENHOUSEYEG.COM
The Tomato | January February 2021 9
Bunch
How to
Continued from page 8.
¼t thyme 1t oyster sauce
2 whole star anise 1t sugar
cook a
2 bay leaf 3t corn starch
1c red wine ½t grated ginger
water to cover 1T whole egg
sausage.
Brown bison in a medium sized pot, 1t red wine
then add the rest of the ingredients. Add 1t dark soy sauce
enough water to cover the steak cubes. 1t corn starch
Cover with a lid then simmer until the
2t oil
cubes are fork tender approximately 3-4
hours (or longer). When tender and cool Marinate the beef in the first six
We asked Mike Popowich at Popowich Meats enough, pull apart with two forks into ingredients for 1-2 hours. Mix in the red
the best way to cook a sausage. strands. Dispose of the braising liquid. wine, dark soy sauce, corn starch and oil.
There are a few good ways to cook a sausage. Satay Sauce
Bison Hash Cakes
I’ll start with how not to—high heat. The biggest 2T minced shallot
braised bison, shredded
mistake people make is they crank up their 1t minced garlic
1 russet potato, baked,
barbecue or frypan and toss in the sausage. It will
peeled, cooled and grated ¼c finely slice green onion
tighten up and make the casing chewy.
8 green onion stalks, chopped 1 T Lee Kum Kee brand
Instead, cook on low to medium heat on the finely (green part only) Sa Cha sauce
barbecue or in a fry pan. Don’t puncture them and ½ sm white onion, sliced thinly 1 T Lee Kum Kee brand
turn them often. It will take a bit of time, however, Curry sauce
2T garlic powder
you’ll be rewarded with a nicely cooked casing and 150 ml water
2T onion powder
a moist sausage inside. ½t salt
2T chipotle Tabasco
Or, fill a fry pan with water and bring it to a simmer 1t soy sauce
1 T Highwood Crossing canola
(about half-way up the thickness of the sausage). oil 1T oyster sauce
Cook the sausage by turning it over in the water 1 red pepper, roasted, seeded ½t dark soy sauce
until it’s about 2/3 of the way done, then empty the and diced 3t sugar
water and finish the sausage at medium heat with 1 egg 1 T slurry (corn starch
some oil. 1T apple sauce and cold water)
dash salt and pepper Heat 3 tablespoons vegetable oil in a pan
Or, bake them in an oven at 350-375ºF for about
and sear beef tenderloin until golden
20-30 minutes depending on the thickness of the canola oil for frying
brown. Reserve. Sweat the shallot, garlic
sausage. You’re shooting for an internal temp of Preheat oven 350ºF. and onion until soft. Add the Lee Kum
160ºF. Let them rest for about 5 minutes before Kee sauces and blend. Add the water,
Mix all ingredients including the pulled
diving in. oyster sauce, the soy and dark soy and
bison together in a bowl. Divide into four
sugar. Add the slurry until you have nice
Elyse Chatterton says the best way to eat a sausage and make four oval patties. Heat sauté
sauce consistency. Add the beef back into
pan and add canola oil. Place the bison
is in a full English breakfast (black pudding or a the sauce and season to taste. Set beef
hash cakes in the pan and cook for 2-3
Cumberland sausage, baked beans, grilled tomato, satay aside.
minutes. Flip and repeat. Gently remove
and fried egg). Irving’s makes a great blood pudding cakes, put on a sheet pan and cook in the
Toast
that Elyse helped them develop. Cumberland is our preheated oven for 15 minutes. Remove
best-selling sausage, but I like our fresh chorizo from the pan, sprinkle with salt and 2 slices sourdough bread
sausage in this dish. It has lots of flavour and serve. 2 eggs
medium heat to provide a bit of spice. Makes 4 cakes. Pan fry the bread with olive oil until
golden brown. Fry eggs sunny side up
until egg whites are crispy. Set aside.
Chorizo with Peppers, Mushrooms, Malaysian Beef Satay on
Onions and Eggs Toast with Fried Egg To serve:
Cook the sausage 2/3 of the way, then cut it up. Reserve. The beef satay can be made ahead and frozen. Lay toast on the plate. Spoon beef satay
Heat up before use. –chef Andrew Fung, XIX on the top. Lay crispy egg on top of
Pan-fry some peppers, onions and mushrooms. Add the sausage
the beef satay. Garnish with fresh herbs
and some eggs you scramble along with all the other goodies.
(cilantro, basil, Italian parsley) tossed
Finish with a splash of Meuwly’s Fermented Chili sauce. Beef Satay with extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper
1 lb sliced beef tenderloin to taste.
1T soy sauce Serves 2.
10 January February 2021 | The TomatoPlace all of the dry ingredients in a bowl
Workshop’s and whisk to combine.
Chicken & Waffles In a pot, slowly heat the milk and butter,
just enough to melt the butter. Let cool
Corso at home.
This has to be one of my favourite indulgent slightly (this is the key, do not let the
dishes on any of our menus. This isn’t exactly milk be over 100ºF when adding to the
something I would eat every day, but it is
dry ingredients or you’ll kill the yeast).
definitely something worth consuming a week’s
worth of calories in one sitting. It’s become When cool enough, add the milk and the
so popular that when we opened for brunch egg into the dry ingredients, whisking corso32group.com
at The Greenhouse at Victoria we just had well, until smooth. Let stand at room
to bring it there too! While the dish at the temperature about 20-30 minutes.
restaurant features a couple of poached eggs,
rich hollandaise, and house-made hot sauce, I’m
only going to focus on the two key recipes here,
Chicken Dredge
the fried chicken and the waffles. I’m assuming 2c flour
if you’re ambitious enough to prepare this dish,
2T garlic powder
you’re likely skilled enough to poach an egg
or whip up some hollandaise. This is a good 2T onion powder
combination dish, that both items could be 1t cayenne
prepared separately.
1t paprika
Let’s start with the chicken. I like to use
Morinville Colony chickens for this. We usually 2t salt
use the breast for entrees and save the leg for 1t pepper
fried chicken. Use your preferred chicken, and
your favourite cuts. I like the drum and the Place all of the dry ingredients in a bowl
thigh, because they are juicy and tend to cook a and whisk to combine well.
little more quickly. I elect to brine the chicken.
Listen, if you don’t want to have to prepare this
a day ahead, then don’t sweat it, but, if you To finish the dish:
want amazingly moist and delicious chicken, 2c buttermilk
then do the right thing. –Paul Shufelt, exec chef
Workshop Eatery, Woodshed, the Greenhouse at oil for deep fryer (preferably
Victoria. in a proper deep fryer)
oil for waffle maker
Brined chicken Preheat the deep fryer to 350ºF.
1 chicken, cut up into 9 pieces
Preheat the waffle maker to medium-high
1 lemon, halved (about a 7 or 8 out of 10).
2 bay leaf
Place the buttermilk in another small
4 sprigs fresh parsley bowl, next to the dredge.
4 sprigs fresh thyme
Starting with the larger pieces, take the
2T honey brined chicken and place in the chicken
2 cloves garlic, peeled, smashed dredge, coat all sides, then tap off excess
5T kosher salt flour and set aside. Repeat this process
until all pieces are dredged.
1.6 lt. water
Quickly take a piece of chicken, place it
Make the brine: in a pot combine all
in the buttermilk and coat all sides, then
of the ingredients, except the chicken.
quickly back into the flour, coating all
Bring to a simmer and let the salt and
sides again, and then gently place piece
honey dissolve. Let cool completely, then
into the fryer.
pour over the chicken and ensure it is
all submerged. Let the chicken brine for Fry the chicken in batches, so as not
at least 2 hours and up to 12, but no to overcrowd your fryer. Large pieces
longer than that. Once brined, remove will take 12-14 minutes, smaller pieces
and refrigerate the chicken until ready to 8-10 minutes, but I highly recommend
cook, and discard brine. using a probe thermometer for safety.
180ºF internal temperature is a nice safe
Waffle Batter number.
21/3 c pastry flour While the chicken is frying, lightly
¼c malt powder grease your waffle maker and then place
1T sugar a generous ladle of batter in, covering all
of the maker. Close the lid and let cook
2t dry active yeast
until crispy on both sides, about 3-4
1t salt minutes, depending on your maker.
1t baking soda
Serve the fried chicken and waffles with
1½ c milk some hot sauce and real maple syrup and
1T butter you’ll be in heaven!
1 egg Serves 4-6.
The Tomato | January February 2021 11Getting to know pita
Iain Ilich
All photos: Curtis Comeau Photography
Writing about pita is a surprisingly fawn over perfect baguettes made
difficult task for one simple reason: with the perfect starter, others are
there is no one type of pita bread and just as devoted to the simple yet
everyone has an opinion. extraordinary pita.
“Not even from country to country, but The most common type features a
from town to town within country to hollow interior space that can be easily
country, it differs,” explains Wajih Araji, pulled apart and stuffed. Then there is
general manager at Al Salam, a popular the pocketless Greek style, which, as
southside Edmonton restaurant and the name suggests, lacks the pocket.
pita bakery. They serve a wide range of It is generally puffier and is perfect
clients who hail from a wide range of for folding around souvlaki or cutting
backgrounds—Lebanese, Palestinian, up for dipping. And that’s not even
Egyptian—all with their own views on counting the huge number of similar
pita. For many, it’s not just an occasional flatbreads that could easily be counted
treat, but a daily staple. If some cultures as a type of pita.
Top: pitas in the oven. Above: Al Salam general manager Wajih Araji
12 January February 2021 | The TomatoStrictly speaking, pita is a flatbread. Like for something like five or seven seconds.
many breads, it’s generally made with And after that, it’s on another 40-foot
yeast, water, flour, salt and sugar. What conveyer that takes it all around the
makes pita special is the technique. space that we make it in, just to cool
It’s rolled out fairly thin, then cooked it down.”
quickly at a relatively high temperature,
From there, they manually count and
either in a pan or in an oven. This burst
pack the pitas while they're still warm.
of heat causes the water in the dough
“If you come and buy pita fresh in the
to turn to steam, making it puff up
mornings, if you come before 9:30am
impressively as it cooks from both inside
you’ll still see the steam in the bag,”
and out, resulting in the typical hollow
he says.
inside pocket structure that can be used
for filling. Depending on how they’re
The freshest pita you’ll ever have
made, they can be small and puffy or flat
For those who want a taste of pure pita
and easier to use for wraps.
heaven, right out of the oven, you can
“The most popular one would be the buy fresh pita on the spot at Al Salam,
traditional Lebanese pita bread,” says baked to order. The pieces of flattened,
Araji of his own shop’s offerings. “It stretched dough go into a stone pizza
comes in three different sizes: 10-inch, oven that’s hot enough to singe your
three-and-a-half and seven-and-a-half eyebrows off (there are stories). About
inch. It comes in white and whole
wheat. Not only do we sell it retail to
40 seconds is all it takes to get the job
done. As soon as they’re done, they’re
Great things to do with pita
Sometimes you buy a fresh bag of pita with one thing in mind, but
our customers, we also supply to donair yanked from the oven, placed briefly
you wind up with extra. Or maybe you love pita and just need a good
shops and a lot of grocery markets. onto racks then into the bag, ready to
excuse to pick some up and use it. Here are some easy ideas.
Anyone that uses pita in their dish, per be taken home.
se, they usually get a hold of us and we
While they make fresh pita at the front Wraps Pita Pizzas
supply them here in Edmonton.”
of the shop all day, it’s still subject to Flour tortillas are great and An excellent option for pitas
availability. tend to keep for longer than that are maybe a few days old.
A little old world, a lot of new
pita, but have you ever made Let your kids grate the cheese,
When you walk through the doors at “We operate a restaurant as well as the
a wrap with a pita still warm spread some sauce on, add
Al Salam, don’t be fooled by the pita bakery, and that baked to order bread
from the oven? Some shells some toppings, then top with
operation in the front, where they we use for the restaurant side,” he
can be pulled apart and filled, the cheese and bake. It’s a fun
make and bake pita by hand. In the explains. “Sometimes we’ll get an order
then wrapped. Flimsier shells way to experiment with different
back, behind the scenes, there’s a full for 100 plates out of nowhere, which
or those that have torn are pizza toppings without having
commercial bakery facility to meet the requires 100 pieces of bread. But 95 better to just fill and roll like a to commit to using dough from
sizeable demand for fresh pita in the per cent of the time, it’s available. But donair. They’re also fantastic scratch.
Edmonton area. the five per cent of the time it isn’t we for packing in a school lunch.
get really scolded for it, so we always You’re on notice, sandwiches.
“On an average day, when it’s not too Bread Crumbs
try to keep it available. People from the
busy and not too slow, we’ll probably Pop it in a blender, give it a
north side come into the south just to Homemade Falafel
make 2,000 pieces of pita,” says Araji. whirl and you’re good to go.
buy it. People from Leduc. People from The best way to eat falafel is
“It’s a lot of pita bread.”
Wetaskiwin come. People can drive in a pita wrap. Make falafel
Pita Chips
“The pita that you’ll see on the shelf, all the way from Red Deer, sometimes at home from scratch and
When all else fails, you can turn
that one is probably 70 to 80 per cent without calling, just to pick it up, so customize it to your liking. If
those extra unused pita shells
automated,” he explains. we always try to keep it as available as you don't have a ton of time,
into pita chips. Season as you
possible.” you can use a pre-mixed
Their crew of about seven people comes ingredient pack that you like or keep them plain. Just
in at 5:00am to make the dough by During times like these, when money is hydrate and cook, or you can pay attention if you’re baking
hand. After that, the process becomes tight and comfort food is helping us all buy pre-made falafel balls in them in the oven, as they can
more mechanical, and sounds just a get through, it’s nice to know that the the vegetarian aisle of your go from perfect to burned in no
little bit like Willy Wonka’s factory. The little luxuries don’t have to break favourite supermarket. time.
machinery cuts the dough into portions, the bank.
flattens each piece, places it on a Freeze Them Kitchen Experiments?
“It’s super affordable,” says Araji. “$3.50
conveyer and sends it off through a very While pitas are meant to be “You can wrap a Twix bar in
for five pieces baked fresh in front of
hot oven that is filled with flames. eaten fresh, preferably within pita bread and deep fry it,” Araji
your eyes. For the other one, we sell it
three days of being made, says, noting they tried this the
“We don’t turn on the heater during for $2.25 for six pieces. Destroys grocery
you can pop any extras in the other day. “It’s a little too sweet
winter. We just light up the bakery market prices. And we’re local.” for me, but some people prefer
freezer and they'll hold up well
and that gets it burning in here,” Araji for a month or two. stuff like that.”
laughs. “That oven is at 800 degrees, so Iain has spent the past nine months
it’s piping hot. The pita goes through slowly embracing life as a shut-in.
The Tomato | January February 2021 13Wine Maven
Rita and Rudolf Trossen are wonderful
small producers in Kinhein-Kindel (middle-Mosel). They have been biodynamic
since 1978. We met them on a trip to the Mosel not so long ago, and the wines
are now available in Alberta via the small but mighty import agency Garneau
Block. So happy about that. The wines all share a sense of vitality and clarity and
appropriate alcohol (no 15 per cent ABV bruisers here). The Trossecco Pet Nat
is fun and lively, slightly sweet, ideal for Prosecco lovers. The Purellus Pur’us
(Langfuhr vineyard, grey slate) is a more serious bubble, with deep and vibrant
flavours of honey and apple. It’s a gorgeous rosy colour too. There are several
Riesling in this shipment including the sprightly Schieferblume (flower
of the slate), a blend of four different vineyards and the single vineyard
Madonna Pur’us, glorious.
Let’s not forget the reds. The Trossen Rot (Dornfelder and Pinot Noir)
is a generous wine, suitable for hearty dishes. The Pinot Noir Pur’us is a
silky-textured, gentle and delicious Pinot. This vintage is made by carbonic
maceration (grapes are not crushed, the initial fermentation happens
within the grape) allowing for superb flavours and balanced acidity. All the
wines are fermented naturally and the Pur’us wines have no intervention
at all, no sulphur added, and are unfined and unfiltered. Check out the
full selection and find your favourites at Color de Vino, Highlands Liquor,
121 Jasper Liquor and other fine wine shops; in Calgary at Bricks Wine,
Kensington Wine Market and Vine Arts.
The Hungarian grapes Furmint, Hárslevelű
and the red Kadarka (sometimes called Gamza) not well known yet make some
wonderful wines you will want to get to know, from Zsirai, a small sustainable
producer new to our market. All the wines are well priced, actually, for the quality are
bargains, especially the dessert wines. The Tokaji Furmint is fragrant with honey and
lemon zest, has a lovely beeswaxy texture, a slightly salty, lemony character and a long
finish. Chardonnay lovers, give this wine a try. The Tokaji Hárslevelű is a little spicy,
meatier, with some weight and lots of freshness. The Villányi Múzsa Kadarka is a
fetching cherry colour, super fresh. Gamay-ish aroma, has presence.
Then there are the sweet wines. The Tokaj region has long been known as the
home of incredibly luscious, long-lasting sweet wines painstakingly made by
hand. The beauty of these dessert wines lies in their balance. Although they
are decadently sweet, they are always fresh in the mouth due to the naturally
high acidity. The 2012 Tokaji Szamorodni has beautifully complex spice
notes, well-integrated sweetness and a finish that goes on for minutes. Have
this with the leftover Christmas cake. The Aszu category of Tokaj wines have
grapes affected by noble rot added to the must, giving the the wines even more
complex and unique flavours. They are rare wines and last for decades. The
2009 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos is heady, yet the freshness is astounding.
14 January February 2021 | The TomatoMary Bailey
Prosecco you know.
But do you know Franciacorta? Italy’s answer to Champagne?
They are high-quality traditional sparkling wines (made from
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and some Pinot Blanc is allowed)
from a small hilly region in Lombardia. Barone Pizzoni,
one of the best producers in the region, grow their grapes
organically and use sustainable practices. The Barone
Franciacorta wines were featured in Bar Bricco’s NYE Box.
New to Alberta is the Brut Nature. The blend of Pinot and
Chardonnay grown on limestone-rich soil has no dosage.
It has spent up to 40 month on the lees which results in
a bone dry, elegant wine, structured, with a long finish.
The beautiful acidity contributes to the freshness in
the mouth. Just a delicious wine. If you are a lover of
bubbles this is must try.
Solo cocktails for solo times.
Since we are spending so much time alone, it’s individual cocktails to the rescue.
And the Fort Distillery make delicious bottled cocktails. There are five available,
two made with the Fort’s craft vodka: the Shaft (Alberta honey and cold brew coffee)
and the Cosmo (BC raspberries, cranberries, citrus). The Daiquiri is made with the
Fort’s cane spirit, lime and sugar. And they have two Old Fashioneds: the Classic,
with the Fort’s whisky, brown sugar, aromatic bitters and orange and the Maple Old
Fashioned with Fort’s gin, aromatic bitters and Ontario maple syrup. Shake and pour
over ice, and it’s done. No muss no fuss. Recycle the glass bottle and aluminum cap.
Available at Color de Vino, Sherbrooke and other fine shops.
All prices are approximate. Not all wines and spirits in all shops.
Mary Bailey is the editor of The Tomato.
The Tomato | January February 2021 15Beer Guy
Brewing love
The couple that brews together, day (‘Did you know you pace a lot? Like,
stays together. a LOT.’). I know now that when my
wife said she spends all day in meetings
I thought this one evening in the before
she was not kidding. This is old hat to
times, when we gathered in the taproom
brewing couples like Patrick Schnarr and
of Endeavour Brewing in St. Albert to
Krysten Arlt of Outcast Brewing. Like
celebrate a 25th wedding anniversary.
other beer couples, they have different
Family and friends packed elbow to
but complementary roles, with Patrick
elbow, talking and laughing loudly across
the brewer and Krysten the taproom
long, narrow tables, sharing beers—
‘Here, try the saison, so good’—hugging, manager. But with three young kids,
high-fiving. Remember this? Oh my god working together is more like working
I miss it. apart as they stagger hours so one of
them is always at the brewery and one is
I looked towards the bar and there
always at home with the kids. Parker and
behind the beer taps were Endeavour co-
Andrea Pysyk of S.Y.C. Brewing say “you
owners, Matt and Georgia Atkins. They
get to know your partner in a different
looked like proud parents, beaming at
each other and the cheerful crowd. And way by working together”. Andrea notes
in a way, they are parents, married for 19 they both “have more grey hairs but also
years, birthing the brewery in 2018 and more wrinkles from laughing”. Wade
seeing their baby grow into a delightful and Erin of Born Colorado Brewing told
youth. They had fallen in love with craft me working together means, “you see
beer culture at a Houston the best and worst in each
brewery and vowed to other, which makes us
bring that culture home. closer as a couple”. Matt
Looking around the busy and Georgia of Endeavour
taproom I knew they had said, “Starting our business
The latest Edmonton been successful, creating
a community space full of
was the most difficult thing
either of us have ever done. We
food & drink news conversation fuelled by great
craft beer.
rely on each other. Most days we are
best friends, other days...well, we make
delivered The loss of community when shared
spaces like taprooms had to close has
up quickly.”
Building a brewery together is a test
to your been one of the toughest hits from
Covid-19. Community is a common
which not all relationships pass. There’s
the happy story of Neil and Lavonne
inbox thread that runs through craft beer, and
it is especially notable at breweries with
Herbst, whose marriage survived and
thrived during the 25 years they co-
couples in charge. Partners Andrew
weekly. Bullied and Erica O’Gorman founded
Annex Ales to make people happy by
owned Alley Kat Brewing. Jason and
Laurie Griffiths of Folding Mountain
Sign up at bringing them together in a community have been together 23 years. But there’s
also the story of a Calgary-area couple
space. Launching in 2016, they told
thetomato.ca Haydon Dewes (now of Cabin Brewing) who broke up under the strain of
that, “we feel that we can effect change brewery-owning. All the couples I talked
by making beer.” Born Colorado to said it isn’t easy but they have no
Brewing co-founders Wade Brown and regrets. Parker at Outcast said, “It isn’t
Erin McQuitty say “community is the as fun as you’d think and it’s going to
backbone of everything we do” and that be hard. But do it.” Matt at Endeavour
their taproom “is a place where strangers gave some advice: “Be prepared for a lot
become friends over good brews.” of struggles but perseverance is the key.
For many couples, the pandemic Eventually you will win. The best part of
has meant working from home and owning a brewery is seeing people come
sharing the same workspace, gaining an in, make new friends and try new beers.
appreciation for what their partners do all It is worth it.”
16 January February 2021 | The TomatoPeter Bailey
Love is brewing six pack
Alberta beer couples recommend love potions sure to win the heart of your Valentine.
S.Y.C. Good as Gold Dortmunder Lager, Edmonton
Parker and Andrea Pysyk, part-owners and co-founders, picked this as their
favourite of all the dozens of great beers S.Y.C. has produced over the years. The
Dortmunder style balances the sweetness and malt of the Helles style with the
hop crispness of the Pilsner style. Good as Gold hits the balance perfectly - a
malty, golden lager with spicy hop bite.
Folding Mountain Afternoon Social Hazy IPA, Hinton
Jason and Laurie Griffiths. Jason is co-owner and co-founder, Laurie a
designer who helped design the spectacular Folding Mountain Taproom.
Jason suggests this bright and tropical hazy IPA will remind you of raising
a glass on a sunny afternoon with the best of friends, sharing stories and
laughter. Cross your fingers and hope that time will come again.
Born Colorado Arm Candy Milk Stout, Lacombe
Wade Brown and Erin McQuitty, co-founders and co-owners. Popular since
day one, Arm Candy won the Gold Medal at the 2020 Alberta Brewing
Awards as the best stout in Alberta. Arm Candy is a creamy, medium-bodied
milk stout with notes of chocolate and espresso and a touch of sweetness from
the added milk sugar (lactose).
Annex Zenosyne North American Black Ale, Calgary LOOKING FOR DELICIOUS
Andrew Bullied and Erica O’Gorman, co-founders and co-owners.
Zenosyne is the sense that time keeps going faster, entirely appropriate as DINNER IDEAS? LET US HELP!
the name for a Covid-era beer. A black ale or Cascadian dark ale balances
dark maltiness with hop bitterness. Zenosyne is dark in colour with a light READY-TO-COOK MEALS
body and features fruit and pine on the nose with a subtle roasty taste. We offer a wide selection of delicious options prepared in-house and
ready to pop into your oven. Some favourites include Chicken Cordon Blue,
Sausage Rolls, Herb and Garlic Rolled Pork Loin, Fresh Sausages,
Outcast The Forgetful Brewer Double IPA, Calgary Pork and Chicken Schnitzel, Stuffed Portabellos, Creative Cream Cheese
Stuffed Chicken Breasts and Pork Tenderloins.
Patrick Schnarr and Krysten Arlt, co-founders and co-owners. The story of
the name comes from when Patrick had a lot on his plate as a new father and
forgot to order enough malt for a batch of Outcast’s breakfast stout. He did
LOCAL PANTRY CUSTOM-CUT PROTEINS
We are proud to partner with local We are also a traditional butcher
have copious hops at hand, so brewed this monster of a double IPA, redolent producers to offer delicious pantry shop and offer the highest quality,
of grapefruit and pine and hiding its 8.2% ABV dangerously well. items to complete your meal—from locally-sourced steaks, roasts, chops,
fresh pasta and locally grown potatos and those unusual cuts you
to curries and sauces. may be looking for.
Endeavour Daily Jolt Porter, St. Albert
Matt and Georgia Atkins, co-founders and co-owners, share a love of
the outdoors. The name Daly Jolt comes from a time hiking the Iceline COME IN AND
Trail in Yoho near the Daly Glacier when they got caught in a serious
SAY HELLO!
thunderstorm, with a bolt of lightning striking nearby gave them a jolt.
We love meeting new people,
Daly Jolt is nicely balanced, with a complex malt profile plus a touch of
talking about food, and
citrusy hops. sharing favourite recipes.
Peter Bailey runs a community space where people gather: a public library. It’s like a taproom
but without the beer. He’s on Twitter and Instagram as @Libarbarian. CALL OR EMAIL US TO ORDER CURBSIDE PICKUP
6853 170 Street • popowichmeatcompany.ca • 587.462.8926
Wolf Willow Shopping Centre • Lots of parking available
The Tomato | January February 2021 17Drinks
Let’s get hygge:
warm drinks for cold days
JOIN OUR Stock up on thermoses. This is
PINT CLUB
how we stay warm this winter. Glühwein (Mulled Wine)
We may be outside six feet apart The best mulled wine ever was at a Christmas
but we will be able to enjoy a hot Market in Munich. Maybe it was the setting
AND GET FREE DELIVERY* drink (with or without alcohol) or the cute mug you were able to keep, but it
was so delicious—not bitter, not too sweet, just
*CONDITIONS APPLY, SEE SITE FOR DETAILS with friend and family. warm and winey. Use something fruity with
ripe tannins. Don’t let it boil. No overt oak.
Gamay, Grenache, Syrah blends or Tempranillo
WWW.LITTLEBEARGELATO.COM Amari Caldo would be great, or you could try a rosé for
something different. Think cinnamon sticks,
Amari are the Italian aromatized wines drunk cloves, star anise or cardamom and black
after dinner to aid digestion. Every region pepper. Or, try the Zinter Brown Mulled Wine
makes their own style. We can thank Daniel Spice Mix (Italian Centre Shops, Sunterra,
Costa at Corso 32 who introduced regular Save-On), it’s local and it’s really good.
Edmontonians to the whole concept. He was the Adapted from a Punch recipe for glögg.
first to encourage drinking amari and stocks a
wide selection for after dinner. Cibo Bistro has 750 ml red wine (we used El
Each of our Vitaliteas Teas a good selection too. To buy for home, check out
Bonhomme, Cune Crianza
the amari section at Color de Vino. Nonino
and Spicy Chai Mixes are with its citrusy flavours would be delicious, would also be good choice)
100% locally made in Nardini is a classic, Montenegro and Averno 1c aquavit
Edmonton, Alberta. are easy to find. Or try the less-known Alpine
1 c port (we used Taylor’s 10 yr
amari such as Braulio, with notes of pine and
juniper, it’s like you are drinking the forest— old Tawny)
Call or visit us online to how wonderful after a walk in the woods. 1c water
order any of our naturally
1/2 c brown sugar
delicious blends. three parts amaro (we used the
excellent Antico Amaro di 3 sticks cinnamon
Serravalle from Piedmont) 6 cloves, whole
five parts hot water 5 pods cardamom, crushed
780.461.3176 | vitaliteas.ca
Pour into a glass and twist lemon peel 2 star anise
VitalyTeas Ltd. Edmonton, AB
over. Easy peasy.
Mulled wine, Amanda LeNeve photo
18 January February 2021 | The TomatoMary Bailey
1 orange peel, wholel
1-inch fresh ginger, peeled
Caffè Corretto
1 bean vanilla, split lengthwise Corrected coffee—espresso with alcohol.
Add all ingredients to a large sauce pot. Ask for one at the Italian Centre Shop
Bring to almost a boil, then reduce heat cafés and you will get an espresso with a
to low. Do not let it boil. Simmer over slug of Sambuca. Ramazzotti (sometimes
low heat for 30 minutes. Strain and serve called black sambuca) is very good in a
into individual glasses. caffè corretto or you could try grappa or Take out • Limited seating • Reservations recommended
Makes 5-7 servings. eau de vie. 780-757-2426 • 11244 – 104 Avenue • cibobistro.com
Hot Chocolate Hot Toddy
Most mixes are way too sweet and have
The lobby bar at the Marriott makes an
I MEAN, YOU’RE
too much stuff in them, but a good one
excellent hot toddy—easy to make at
is Baru in a fun striped cylinder. You home too. I would use Eau Claire’s new
can make your own with cocoa powder, Rupert’s Whisky, it’s round and rich
milk and a mug. The key is to make a
paste first with a ¼ c milk and the cocoa
flavour and reasonable price make it a
natural.
ALREADY
COLD
powder, then add the rest of the milk. Add an ounce of whisky (or bourbon) to
Whisking gives you some frothiness. Top a cup of hot water. Add a squeeze of fresh
with whipped cream, marshmallows— lemon juice, some honey (smoked honey
the kids might like their hot choc would be fun) and a cinnamon stick and
star anise. Stir and serve. RITCHIE
garnished with a candy cane. Tip in a 9551 76 Avenue
splash of brandy, Grande Marnier or For the garnish, you could go full open all winter HIGHLANDS
peppermint schnapps to make an adult mixologist by using dried orange peel (or ice cream
OPENING SPRING 2021
a circle of dried orange) then burn it over
beverage. In the name of research I also
the glass.
had a beautiful hot chocolate at Cococo
on 124 Street, similar to the following: Makes 1.
Hot Buttered Rum
Parisian Hot Chocolate
My Dad would sometimes make hot
artisan food market
Adapted from a recipe by David Lebovitz.
Use the best quality chocolate you can find to buttered rum after winter sports.
make this luscious hot chocolate. It improves if He would boil water, add a healthy splash
made ahead and allowed to sit for a few hours. of rum, add a teaspoon of brown sugar,
Shop Online for Delivery or Curbside Pickup
Rewarm before serving. stir, grate on some nutmeg and a jot of Cured Meats & Sausages, Preserves, Dairy, Eggs, & More
butter on top. He would make it for the
2c whole milk
kids with apple juice instead of the rum.
www.meuwlys.com
130g bittersweet chocolate, best-
quality, finely chopped Use a high-quality rum such as Appleton’s
or Mount Gay. Your ratio of rum to
2T light brown sugar, optional water is one-part alcohol to six parts hot
Heat the milk in a medium-sized water.
saucepan. Once the milk is warm, remove
from heat and whisk in the chocolate, Remember that alcohol doesn’t really warm
stirring until the chocolate is melted. you up, so be careful to not overdo it and 10706 124th st. Edmonton | 587.786.3560 | @meuwlys
For a thick hot chocolate, return to heat don’t drink and drive.
and cook at a very low boil for about 2-3 are you in on the secret?
minutes, whisking constantly. Be careful The Tomato editor Mary Bailey stayed
and keep an eye on the mixture, as it may warm researching this article.
boil up a bit during the first moments.
Taste and add brown sugar if desired.
Serve warm in demitasse cups, small
coffee or tea cups. Garnish with a
sprinkle of Maldon or other good flaky
salt. Charcuterie, Sausages, Pickles, & Preserves
Makes 4 Parisian-sized servings. Use promo code "TOMATO20" to receive 25% off your first order.
www.secretmeatclub.com
The Tomato | January February 2021 19A young man’s quest
Dylan Greenhough
I, like many of you, have been stuck at Stumbling across the street, I
home. At the time of writing this, I am approached the vendor. The woman at
still existing in the endless in-between, the till eyed me curiously. I pointed at
eager to return to cook in a restaurant, the pizza in the window and handed
but unsure of when it will be safe to do over a large fold of bills, happy to pay
so. To keep my spirits up I’ve used this whatever it cost to fill my aching belly.
time to retrace the journey that my love Cautiously, she slid my feed across the
of food has taken me on. counter, giving me one last funny look
My initial venture seems like a distant before disappearing.
echo from what we’re experiencing
I collected my spoils and slithered
today, and was in an uncertain period
towards the open patio. Collapsing in
of my life. I was churning my way
a chair, I devoured the pizza in quick,
through university and unsure what
calculated bites. The stranger erupted
it was leading to. I felt lost in who I
with laughter, rubbing his belly and
was, tirelessly trying to reinvent myself
to explore the city for something to over when I lurched across the room. shouted “much better!” I smiled back
with a rotating cast of new hobbies and
eat. I eventually stumbled across a little An employee started shouting at me, weakly before sinking into my seat, my
declarations. In the midst of that mania,
restaurant with a rustic sign swinging crawling around on his hands and knees mission fulfilled, my mind at ease.
I decided that I wanted to become a
in the window, assuring me that they to clean up my mess. Instead of helping
pizzaiola. Never being one to do things From that first meal I began to recognize
carried something tasty. him I ran out the door, the baker’s barks
half-way I booked a solo trip to Italy,
bellowing behind me as I retreated into that something was different about the
believing that I might uncover some Bursting through the glass doors, an
the unfamiliar city. food I was eating. Not just in taste,
ancient culinary secret that would unexpected gust of cold air made me
but in the surrounding culture too.
kickstart my career before I knew how shiver. The employees watched with I put several blocks between me and
It encouraged me to take my time
to hold a knife. lazy suspicion as I scanned the room, the commotion before pausing to catch
and breathe the air. I was fascinated,
searching for clues that would tell me my breath. Having fumbled over the
A few weeks later I landed in Torino. indoctrinated, eager to uncover whatever
how to proceed. first hurdle on what was supposed to be
A short bus ride from the airport took secrets there were to uncover.
the adventure of a lifetime, I was crest-
me to the central metro station, a Then I saw it.
fallen, unsure if I could survive this city After exploring Italy for a few more
magnificent, imposing building crowded
Glowing behind a glass window, a piece alone. weeks, I went to Barcelona, where I met
with strangers trying to escape the hot
of pizza called out to me. two French travellers who invited me to
summer sun. People shouted at one My anxiety was interrupted by a
another in Italian, puffing cigarettes and Waddling towards the counter, my stranger’s hearty laughter, cackling from join them in a whirlwind tour of France.
bumping past me, trying to catch a train cause was interrupted by a crash from the shade of an unseen corner. Looking I accepted, that youthful impulsivity
or a bus or a criminal, I couldn’t tell. To behind me. I turned around to see a up from my misery, I saw the stranger disregarding any dangers that might
escape the noise, I veered off from the cart of pamphlets scattered across the watching me between sips of beer under await, with our destination set for
directions to my lodging, opting instead floor, my backpack having knocked it the canopy of a food truck. Ablain-Saint-Nazaire.
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