PHIL ROSE VINTAGE VIEW - Wine Marlborough
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THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF WINE MARLBOROUGH
ISSUE NO. 292 / APRIL 2019
VINTAGE INVESTMENT ENVIRONMENT PHIL
VIEW BOOSTER AWARDS ROSE
Photo: Jim Tannock
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8
this issue...
Photo: Richard Briggs
10
REGULARS FEATURES
3 Editorial 10 Vintage Views
Vintage 2019 has been blessed
4 From Wine Marlborough - Jack
Glover
with kind weather, excellent
quality, low disease pressure
and breathing space between
6 Tasman Crop Met Report - Rob
varieties, says Hamish Clark. “I
think we are right up there with 14
Agnew some of the best vintages we
have ever seen.”
20 Industry Pioneer - Phil Rose
14 Booster
22 Generation Y-ine - Fenella
Tannock & James Bowskill
Investment in New Zealand
vineyards and wineries
resonates with Kiwis, says
the man behind Booster Wine
24 Biosecurity Watch - Sophie
Badland
Group, which owns four
wineries, 350 canopy hectares
and will process more than
26 Industry News
10,000 tonnes of grapes this
vintage.
28 ANZ Wine Happenings 19
18
Working for Workers
A Marlborough vineyard
contractor is taking a fresh
approach to labour shortages,
with positive outcomes for the
Cover:
Fenella Tannock has helped her father Jim region at large. “We have been
on vineyard photography shoots since she really impressed that people
was 10. This month the “mini viticulturist” genuinely did want to get into
is on the other side of the camera, as she work,” says Lucy Maclean from
works vintage at Framingham. Photo Jim
Hortus.
Tannock.
Winepress April 2019 / 1
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From the
General Manager:
Marcus Pickens
03 577 9299
Editor
marcus@wine-marlborough.co.nz
By the time you read this, the risk period for brown marmorated stink bug will
Editor: almost have ended for the season, and New Zealand Winegrowers’ biosecurity
Sophie Preece team will be analysing the number discovered at border and post border, as well
027 308 4455
as the pathways of introduction - where they have come from and on what. This
sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz
year there has been a bigger tally of live finds beyond border control, including
Advertising: high profile detections in Oamaru, Mt Maunganui and Auckland.
Harriet Wadworth That’s an alarming reminder of the danger the wine industry faces, and the
03 577 9299
need for rigour in deterring and detecting vineyard pests. If you haven’t heard
harriet@wine-marlborough.co.nz
the repeated warnings from Dr Edwin Massey and Sophie Badland - at Bragato,
at the International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration, and in this magazine, to name
Wine Marlborough Board: just a few of their soapboxes - it’s time to wake up and smell the bugs. Brown
Ben Ensor marmorated stink bug (BMSB) is a live threat to New Zealand’s wine industry,
ben.lisa@clear.net.nz
and industry members must be vigilant, and alert the Biosecurity NZ hotline if
Callum Linklater they think they may have one (hopefully a lone hitchhiker) or some (a potential
callum@csviticulture.co.nz biosecurity nightmare) of this (or any other) pest bug in their vineyard.
Sophie says a new Facebook group - NZ Wine Kaitiaki - is for anyone in
Jack Glover the industry who is interested in biosecurity and sustainability updates and
jack.glover@accolade-wines.co.nz discussions. “We’re hoping people will use it as another forum for engaging with
Nick Entwistle
us directly about biosecurity if they have questions or concerns or want more
nick@wairauriverwines.com info.”
Between now and the next high risk period, you should check your records
Simon Bishell are rigorous when it comes to the machinery and goods coming to or leaving your
simon@caythorpe.nz vineyard or winery. And the next time you hear Sophie or Ed speak, make sure
you pay attention. Your vigilance might make the difference between a warning
Stuart Dudley (Deputy Chair)
stuartd@villamaria.co.nz shot across the bow or something far more serious.
Now on to vintage 2019, which has been a wildy different beast to the two
Tom Trolove (Chair) preceding years. Poor Pinot flowering and a dry and hot late summer season
tom.trolove@framingham.co.nz led to lighter crops, an extraordinarily early start to harvest, and great flavours.
A spaced out ripening of varieties and valleys, along with low disease pressure,
Tracy Johnston
Tracy@dayvinleigh.co.nz
gave viticulturists and winemakers time to contemplate picking and pressing
decisions, instead of hurtling from one firefight to the next. “Yay for vintage 2019,”
Jamie Marfell says Villa Maria winemaker Helen Morrison on page 10.
Jamie.Marfell@pernod-ricard.com A shortage of water this summer brought pain to some, and has added
impetus to the argument for more water storage in the region. There will be more
Beth Forrest
Beth@forrest.co.nz
on that in the next edition. For now, I hope those of you facing the first Easter off
in many years get there with full tanks of great wine.
Printed by: SOPHIE PREECE
Blenheim Print Ltd
03 578 1322
Disclaimer: The views and articles that are
expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely
those of contributors and in no way reflect the
policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any
advice given, implied or suggested should be
considered on its merits, and no responsibility can
be taken for problems arising from the use of such
information.
Winepress April 2019 / 3
From the
Board
JACK GLOVER
I WAS reminded recently by one of version of a noble grape variety – often influenced by consolidated
our members about the importance of Sauvignon Blanc. Hand in hand with market places. Our pioneering history
understanding the contribution of our some of our pioneers, our wines turned is important in adding layers to our
industry’s pioneers, trailblazers and the heads and left traditional palates blown story and in turn our regional brand
significant, yet quiet, achievers. At the away by their forthright intensity and equity.
heart of their comment to me was the tenacity. We were new kids on the Brand equity is often underpinned
necessity of taking time to document block, not needing history to underpin by the depth of the story and the way
our young industry’s history, to ensure our unique selling proposition. in which this story is communicated.
we have it as a reference point for the Marlborough wines won’t always
future. be new or edgy, and along with the
I took this on board and, after “Our challenge significance of place and personality
a quick chat with Winepress editor we need to look to our history to enrich
Sophie Preece, the result is the is to ensure our region’s equity.
Industry Pioneer piece that now
features in each monthly edition. we are sure of Individually we are very good at
telling our stories and ‘brandwashing’
To date, Sophie has spent time
discussing the personal stories of
the richness the trade and consumers with virtues
of our brands. Our challenge is to
Rengasamy Balasubramaniam (Bala),
Ivan Sutherland, Jane Hunter and Phil
of the region ensure we are sure of the richness of
the region collectively. Taking time to
Rose (pg 20) and the events that have collectively.” gather this knowledge now gives us the
shaped Marlborough as a premier chance to have access to these stories
global wine growing region. Jack Glover and lessons. That’s what the Industry
Marlborough’s wine history is Pioneers section of Winepress aims to
heavily skewed to the modern age collect and preserve.
of grape growing and winemaking. But in 2019 we are not the latest I would like to acknowledge
We shy away from talking about our thing and our global markets are the member who prompted me to
depth of history and expertise in the maturing. Compounding this is the approach Sophie about talking to our
presence of old world family dynasties, realisation that winegrowing and pioneers – my father Owen. A great
or the shadow of Australia’s phylloxera market dynamics have become initiative, and thanks also to Sophie for
free, gnarly old centurion vineyards. increasingly commercial. Our wines an enlightening read each month.
Our story has for a long time been are now growing up in a more price
told through the glass by an upstart sensitive consumer culture that is
4 / Winepress April 2019
2019x19 in 2019
There are 2019 vineyards in New
Zealand in 2019, with an average
area of 19 hectares. That quirk of
numbers and timing is captured
by the annual Vineyard Register
Report, which shows New Zealand’s
total producing area is 38,680
hectares, 2% up on last year. White
grapes make up 30,921ha of the Photo by Richard Briggs
vineyard area, with the remaining
7,758ha in reds. Marlborough remains the largest producing region at 26,850 ha - 69% of total producing area, and
Sauvignon Blanc remains the most significant variety, at 24,037ha - 62% of total producing area. In the red camp,
Pinot Noir is king with 5,625 ha - 15% of total producing area but 73% of the red vineyards. Marlborough Sauvignon
Blanc accounts for 55% of total production area, with 21,415ha. The full report is available on the New Zealand
Winegrowers website.
The Benge-
mark
TRACY BENGE, establishment “There are
manager at the Bragato Research already a lot
Institute (BRI), has been awarded of women Hayley McCairns, Vilma Martikainen, Tracy Benge, Claire Grose and
a 2018/19 AGMARDT Leadership in senior Jacqui Wood in the interim BRI Research Winery
Scholarship. She is using the $15,000 positions
to develop her leadership and in the wine industry and more are BRI’s research winemaker, along with
governance skills through the Agri- realising they can take on any position Hayley McCairns in a communications
Women’s Development Trust (AWDT) they want.” By coincidence rather than and marketing role. Plant & Food’s
Escalator programme, which has a design, the team working at the new Research winemaker Claire Grose is
vision of more women reaching senior BRI research winery, currently based overseeing the trials, with assistance
leadership and governance positions in at NMIT, is predominantly female. from NMIT winemaking student Vilma
the primary industries. Having led the project for the last year, Martikainen. To keep up to date with
Tracy says she has seen a “shift up” Tracy is now transitioning the research the BRI, check out the blog at https://
in recent years, as a new generation winery from project to operations. bragatoblog.wixsite.com/bragato
of women come into the workplace. Jacqui Wood has joined the team as
Engineering communities for over 80 years.
128 Montreal Street, Sydenham
PO Box 2373, Christchurch
T 03 379 2734
E solutions@babbage.co.nz
Structural | Civil | Geotechnical | Environmental | Building Services | Planning | Building Surveying | Fire | Ecology
Christchurch | Queenstown | Auckland | Hamilton | Melbourne
Winepress April 2019 / 5
MET REPORT
Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – March 2019 term average (LTA). This is the warmest
March March 2019 March Period March mean temperature since March 2007,
2019 compared LTA of LTA 2019 and the 10th warmest March for the 87
to LTA years 1933 to 2019.
GDD’s for: No frosts were recorded during
March 2019. The coldest temperatures
Month - Max/Min¹ 235.7 119% 197.7 (1996-2018) 219.0
were recorded on the morning of
Month – Mean² 231.6 119% 194.0 (1996-2018) 210.8
2 March, with an air minimum of
Growing Degree Days Total
6.4°C and a grass minimum of 3.1°C.
Jul 18 - Mar 19 – Max/Min 1401.8 114% 1224.5 (1996-2018) 1447.8
The hottest day was 4 March, with a
Jul 18 - Mar 19 – Mean 1433.0 114% 1252.9 (1996-2018) 1464.0
maximum air temperatures of 28.7°C.
Mean Maximum (°C) 22.6 +1.1°C 21.5 (1986-2018) 22.3
Mean Minimum (°C) 12.6 +2.0°C 10.6 (1986-2018) 11.8 Growing degree days
Mean Temp (°C) 17.6 +1.5°C 16.1 (1986-2018) 17.1 One year ago we thought that the
Grass Frosts (
Figure 1: Normalized growing degree days for Blenheim: days well above average rainfall in March
above (+) or below (-) the long-term average (1990-2017) for the is ideal for Marlborough’s dryland
period 1 September to 30 April farming properties after the very dry
latter part of summer. It should ensure
good autumn pasture growth before
winter. Had Marlborough received
well below average rainfall in March,
the province would have been facing
a serious autumn drought. Fortunately
this has not eventuated.
Botrytis risk
The very dry weather in January,
February and early March 2019 would
have led to very low Botrytis cinerea
spore numbers in the vineyard. In
order to get a build-up in spore number
it requires a number of Botrytis
infection periods over a couple of
weeks. The 56 mm rain from the 7th
Figure 2: Seasonal water balance for Blenheim: difference between 3-month to 9th March had the effect of causing
totals of rainfall and potential evapotranspiration small amounts of botrytis bunch rot to
appear. However, the fact that there
was relatively little rain from 10 to
30 March meant that further botrytis
infection periods were minor. Most
people in the wine industry were
wishing that vintage 2019 was not
going to be a repeat of the vintages
in 2017 and 2018 with the problems
that the rain over those two vintages
caused. It appears that those wishes
have largely been granted in 2019.
Rob Agnew
Plant & Food Research /
Marlborough Research Centre
Exclusive
on Figure 1 is the +1.0°C projection. the sixth highest March rainfall total importers of
In reality the mean temperature from on record for Blenheim for the 90 years
December 2018 to March 2019 has 1930 to 2019 and the highest March
been 1.4°C above the LTA. The period total since 1984. A reminder that the suspension and
liquid fertilisers
from December 2017 to March 2018 three monthly rainfall totals to start
Th e M e t Re p o r t wa s s p o n s o re d by
was 1.6°C above the LTA, the top blue 2019 are as follow: January 2019 = 3.8
line mm, February 2019 = 8.0 mm, March
2019 = 94.6 mm. Total rain for the first Vi t i c u l t u r e S u p p l i e s S p e c i a l i s t s
Sunshine three months of 2019 is 106.4 mm,
0 80 0 855 2 55
Blenheim recorded 225.7 hours or 79% of the long-term average of
sunshine during March, 98% of the 134.5 mm. The January to March 2019
LTA. Total sunshine for the first three rainfall total of 106.4 mm was 209 mm
months of 2019 is 820.5 hours; 114% of less than the 315.4 mm recorded for
the long-term average. January to March 2018.
The March 2019 rainfall total has
Rainfall
made a start at recovering some of the
Blenheim recorded 94.6 mm rain large moisture deficit that occurred in
during March, 237% of the LTA. This is January and February (Figure 2). The
Winepress April 2019 / 7
Vintage 2019 – the first 24 hours of harvest for Constellation Brands. Photos by Jim Tannock Adverrse here! WINEPRESS IS OWNED BY WINE MARLBOROUGH, THE REGIONAL WINE BODY. Contact us SENT TO ALL MARLBOROUGH WINE COMPANIES & GROWERS & KEY INDUSTRY PERSONNEL. harriet@wine-marlborough.co.nz REGARDED AS THE MOST WELL READ & RECEIVED PIECE OF COMMUNICATION THAT WINE 03 577 2392 MARLBOROUGH SENDS TO MEMBERS. www.wine-marlborough.co.nz/news 8 / Winepress April 2019
Organic
Conference
The Organic and Biodynamic
Winegrowing Conference is on in
Marlborough from June 25 to 27.
Organiser Stephanie McIntyre spills
the (organic) beans on what to expect
The inaugural 2017 event was a hit. innovative and
How will you keep it fresh? informative speakers.
Honestly, it’s not difficult. Organics is
What’s one of the
a dynamic sector of the wine industry
highlights this year?
and every day I, and the conference
committee members, come across Just one? From
new research, data and trials that within New Zealand,
speak to the benefits of organic and I am going to say
biodynamic grape growing. Our job is it’s The Bugman,
to distil this info into a succinct list of Ruud Kleinpaste.
30 speakers. Our biggest challenge is He is such a personality and backs effort and an initial financial outlay to
ensuring that the conference engages it up with immense knowledge and convert, but the benefits to the land
the whole audience, as our delegates experience around entomology, the and the consumer absolutely outweigh
will include conventional growers study of insects and their relationship the short-term hardships. We have a
through to biodynamic pioneers. to humans, the environment and other couple of keynote speakers this year
Each year we work to a theme, which organisms. It is really fascinating stuff. who we hope will lessen concerns in
this year is Vitality, and this helps us this area.
What’s the biggest myth about For more information go to www.
streamline a programme that could organic and biodynamic
otherwise get unruly. We work hard organicwineconference.com
winegrowing?
to ensure balance between viticulture,
Probably that it isn’t viable at a
winemaking and marketing, and spend
commercial level. I know that it takes
more than a year sourcing charismatic,
Winepress April 2019 / 9Vintage
Views
Marlborough makes hay
while the sun shines
SOPHIE PREECE
Constellation Brands’ first day of harvest 2019 began at the company’s Spring Creek Vineyard. Photo Jim Tannock
VINTAGE 2019 has been blessed with has come on at once, so we are really on falling acids, to ensure they did
kind weather, excellent quality, low happy.” not lose that “key component” of the
disease pressure and breathing space Yields of Pinot Noir and wine’s balance. “We are definitely
between varieties, says Villa Maria Chardonnay are down due to cooler noticing flavours coming in pretty
viticulturist Stuart Dudley on March flowering conditions and the long dry early, especially in the Wairau Valley,
22, the day Villa launched into 24-hour summer, resulting in small berry sizes and grapes developing flavour at
mode in the vineyards and winery. “In and loose bunches, he says. “At this slightly lower brix than they might
general, from a quality point of view, stage winemakers are pretty happy normally.” That necessitated “some
things are looking great. Last year we with the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay smart picking decisions based on
were literally rushing around keeping being delivered in pristine condition flavour and acidity, rather than sugar”,
an eye on the condition of fruit and and low cropping levels. It’s exactly he says. “It’s about making sure we
making sure it was holding. Whereas what they want.” But it means tough stay ahead of that flavour and pick
this year we are just walking around economics for some. “Low yielding Sauvignon while it’s still fresh, with
looking at how good it all is.” Villa Pinot is really good for quality and good flavour and acidity.” Yields on
winemaker Helen Morrison puts it we didn’t have to do as much work most of Villa’s Sauvignon Blanc blocks
even more succinctly, when she says through the season. But you still want are tracking below average and some
“yay for Vintage 2019!” to know your cropping levels are high of the blocks that suffered water stress
Stuart says the vintage has been enough to make it viable to be growing during the summer were further
“the complete opposite” of 2017 and it.” Those who fell short of water when reduced. He anticipates three weeks
2018, when rain leading into harvest the Southern Valleys Irrigation Scheme of picking between the first day of 24-
resulted in disease and picking and other water rights were shut down hour operation and the end of vintage.
pressure. This year fruit was “pristine” in late January and early February, “I might get Easter off for the first time
and varieties were spread out, with have particularly low yields, Stuart in 12 years.”
Pinot coming on first, along with says. Over at Saint Clair Family Estate
quite a lot of Chardonnay. The valleys Villa Maria started harvesting in late March, winemaker Hamish
ripened at different rates too, with the “really good” Sauvignon Blanc more Clark is beaming amid gleaming tanks,
Wairau leading the Awatere. “That is than a week ahead of an average year. relieved to have a vintage of premium
what is expected, but in the past few The impact of warm days without fruit and unpressured picking. “It feels
years it has seemed like everything cool nights called for a careful watch a bit like the old days where we can
10 / Winepress April 2019pick and choose, and pick the exact days, at the exact
ripeness. We can go and take a bite, then go back a few
days later and take another bite.”
The winery crew has been working hard but has not
had to “push the hammer down” on anything, he says.
“Flavours and concentration are incredible… Across the
board it is jam packed with flavour.” Lower yields could
help correct the market, making it “hungry again”, he
says. “And hopefully it will stabilise the grape pricing
a little.” Meanwhile, the excellent quality will go a long
way in “reinvigorating” consumer faith after a few tough
years. “It’s been a couple of years since we’ve have some
amazing, amazing flavours come out.”
Pinot Noir is heading for a “top notch vintage” and
there are some very concentrated blocks of Sauvignon,
Hamish says. “I think we are right up there with some of Stuart Dudley, Mark Udy and Helen Morrison, with Rocco, brix
the best vintages we have ever seen.” And while rain was sensor, and Dita, rabbit chaser
heading Marlborough’s way when this Winepress went
to print, Hamish was sure that the “squeaky clean fruit”
would come through unscathed.
Constellation Harvest. Photo Jim Tannock Forrest Harvest
Vintage # 40
“V2019 = Small but amazing,” says Anna Flowerday of Te
Whare Ra’s 40th vintage. “We were hoping for great things,
and the old vineyard here has not let us down.”
Rainfall over flowering impacted earlier varieties,
including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer,
and yields are down by about 30% on those varieties. The
hot and tinder dry summer that followed led to small
bunch sizes and small berries “across the board”, she says.
“So this very dry, warm summer -in combination with our
low crops - has led to 2019 being our earliest harvest ever,
Handpicked Sauvignon Gwertzraminer
in 15 years at the helm of Te Whare Ra, with our first fruit
into the winery on March 1.”
Te Whare Ra’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay was in continues to make a big mark. “Our mantra is a quote I
before the drought broke in mid-March, but that rain was pinched from chef Marco Pierre White and it is written up
great for the later ripening varieties, ensuring healthy in our lab - ‘Perfection is a lot of small things done well’.”
and active canopies to ripen the grapes and concentrate But her personal favourite also gets a lot of air time at Te
flavours. Whare Ra: “It is not how big it is, it is what you do with it
Anna says 40 years in, the small wine company that counts.”
Winepress April 2019 / 11Grape
Solution
Grape marc at Bankhouse Estate
SOPHIE PREECE
NEARLY HALF the grape marc The quantities
produced in Marlborough this vintage are well beyond
will quickly be spread over cropping that allowed for
land at Bankhouse Estate. That’s a in the MDCs
win-win for the wine industry and plans, so the
soil health, says Matt Oliver, the company worked
Marlborough District Council’s (MDC) proactively with
Environmental Scientist for Land council staff and
Management. “Having a really big farm a soil scientist
that is willing to spread the marc in to ensure the
huge volumes, like Indevin is now, is a nitrogen loading
major advantage for the wine industry of the grape Sandy O’Connell with the spreader brought in by Big Bale
and the farmer.” marc would not Contracting
Indevin’s project manager for impact on soil
green spreading at Bankhouse, Sandy health, before applying for resource year, while others are composting
O’Connell, says the company has consent. Their research revealed that grape marc or sending it away for stock
received resource consent to spread the spreading of grape marc to the feed.
up to 33,000 tonnes of grape marc land, which is cropped for barley and Sandy says the Bankhouse gate
this season. It is now working with sweet corn during the year, would be fee is the same per tonne as they were
David Brydon of Dave & Phil Big beneficial to soil health, even in the paying previously. Transport cost is
Bale Contracting, who leases the land higher quantities, Sandy says. additional, “but the wineries have
for cropping, to spread somewhere Matt says the grape marc’s certainty and know that this is being
between 20,000 and 25,000 tonnes of potassium content will replace that handled in a well thought out manner
grape marc from Indevin and six other lost through cropping and the marc that is being monitored closely”.
large companies. “We believe we will will also provide slow release nitrogen The company will monitor the
deal with somewhere between 40% and for the crop and carbon to feed soil impacts of the spreading on the soil,
45% of all of the grape marc produced microbes. “They also developed a very and report back to council at the end
in Marlborough this year,” says Sandy. detailed management plan to deal with of the season, he says. “It will all be
The grape marc is delivered by adverse events such as bad weather or analysed before any 2020 grape marc
wineries to the farm gate, where it is breakdowns which was a major factor is spread.”
weighed and a gate fee charged. Big in gaining consent.” Indevin is also running a pilot
Bale then spreads it using the biggest He says one of the key things the project at the winery, investigating
“muck spreader” they could find and region has learned about grape marc “is the potential of transforming grape
imported specifically for the job. A don’t concentrate the stuff in one place marc into bio-nutrient fertiliser using
loaded Degelman M34 can carry more without good facilities or management a fully contained anaerobic digester.
than 30 tonnes of grape marc and plans”, referencing disastrous cases Sandy says the Remarc project, which
spread it in less than three minutes, of grape marc storage in 2016, which is a joint initiative between Indevin
says Sandy, who recognises that the led to several prosecutions. Last year and renewable energy company
Big Bale team’s love of machinery GrowCo, a company with consent Energy3 Limited, is working to answer
makes them perfect for the job. to process 40,000 tonnes of marc, a range of questions that will feed into
The spreader is towed by a GPS- closed its doors, leaving many wine the investment case for a full scale
guided self-steer John Deere tractor, companies grappling with grape marc project.
which will record the location and plans. A number of companies are
quantity of marc spread. spreading straight to vineyards this
12 / Winepress April 2019Hungry
Harvest
Vintage work never
tasted so good
SOPHIE PREECE
A THOUSAND meals a day, dozens of
different menus, three tonnes of meat
and 30,000 sweet treats. The numbers
around vintage catering are mind
boggling, but Karaka Cuisine is taking
harvest hunger in its stride.
Karaka chef and owner Sander de
Wildt bought and rebranded BV’s café
and catering kitchen at Riverlands
in November, and has ramped up his
From left, Bianca Zucchetto, Sander de Wildt and Chris Pearce
vintage orders from 115 meals a day
last year, when they were prepared
out of his mobile kitchen for a handful these to the staff so they have at least In addition, while Sander and
of wineries, to 1000 meals and 24 one healthy meal in their day, to keep Bianca had 28 menus planned before
companies this year. everyone going for four weeks.” the onslaught of vintage, they look
Around a third of those meals He gets feedback that once the to adapt to feedback and the weather
are vegetarian or vegan and plenty meal deliveries end, the instant forecast. They know cooler days, for
of others have food restrictions, example, call for hearty meals like
including dairy and/or gluten free. Malaysian lamb curry with basmati
Add to that the fact that Sander “They have rice.
Karaka isn’t the only kitchen kept
wants every day’s meal to be different
throughout vintage, and the logistics at least one busy through vintage, with Burleigh
Gourmet Pies experiencing a big
around ordering, planning, preparing,
packing and delivering require military
healthy meal production boost too. Owners Jane
precision.
A packing team of 10 starts at 5am
in their day, to Dickenson and Rod Burdis did their
biggest ever day on Friday, March 11,
and meals are delivered to wineries keep everyone when 545 hot pies and more than 100
frozen ones headed out the door. “I
between 8.30am and 11.30am. The
vegetarian team starts at 5am too, with going for four would have thought we were at the
650 mark,” says Rod, on another busy
three to four chefs led by head chef
Bianca Zucchetto. Then Chris Pearce weeks.” morning.
comes in at midday and sets up his He says the Burleigh tends to be
team of six chefs to work on meats and
Sander de Wildt busiest early and late in the vintage,
side dishes until evening, when all the rather than at the height of harvest,
food needs to be chilled down for the when meals are catered at wineries.
next day’s packing and delivery. noodles come out. It’s a swift “And it will go stupid again when they
All the meals are designed to be nutritional dive from the likes of go back to normal.”
delicious, but also to be balanced and spinach and ricotta ravioli with
healthy, with between 120 and 150 pumpkin Alfredo sauce, chicken
grams of vegetables in every 500g dish, cacciatore, Thai green chicken curry
Sander says. “It’s kind of an incentive with roti, and chermoula eggplant with
for the wineries really. To provide Moroccan quinoa.
Winepress April 2019 / 13Business
Booster
KiwiSaver provider invests
$80 million in wine industry
SOPHIE PREECE
INVESTMENT IN New Zealand fold, and Allan
vineyards and wineries resonates announced the
with Kiwis, says the man behind formation of
Booster Wine Group, which owns four an overarching
wineries, 350 canopy hectares and corporate entity,
will process more than 10,000 tonnes Booster Wine
of grapes this vintage. “The wine Group. Now the Allan Yeo
industry is one of New Zealand’s most wine operation
successful exports,” says Booster’s has enough scale - with 350ha of of what proportion of the managed
managing director Allan Yeo, having planted land and a production capacity funds will be invested in the wine
recently added the site of Nelson’s of seven million litres of wine this industry. “That amount will depend
Mahana winery to the portfolio. “We’re year - there will be a consolidation into on what returns are achievable for
pleased to be keeping a piece of it in “one unified group”, he says. The goal is our clients and what competing
local ownership and giving everyday to reduce the duplication of resource, investment opportunities are there,”
Kiwi investors the chance to share in with four platforms, but rationalised Allan says.
its success.” activities “where that makes sense”. But “stepping into the breach” as a
Booster is one of the government- Allan says Booster’s approach long-term Kiwi owner of New Zealand
appointed default KiwiSaver scheme changes the investment landscape for wine companies is not just great
providers, and manages $3 billion for Kiwis, because Tahi’s direct investment for Booster, but also resonates with
125,000 clients, including KiwiSaver in local companies supplements listed investors, he says, describing a “degree
and other investment funds. Booster shares. Meanwhile, it offers capital of empathy” that is bolstered when
Tahi - an investment fund limited to to small independent businesses they see their wines on supermarket
privately owned, small to medium- previously challenged by a lack of shelves.
sized New Zealand companies - has scale, while keeping them in Kiwi It’s an empathy he feels himself,
invested $80 million in wine since ownership and operation. quick to ask questions when he reads a
it bought into Awatere River Wine New Zealanders collectively have wine list that neglects Booster’s labels.
Company in July 2017, followed by the more than $50b in their KiwiSaver “Put it this way, I only drink other wine
purchase of Waimea Estate in Nelson, accounts, and if just 5% of that was labels now for research.”
including 350ha of vineyards in the invested in small and medium New
Awatere Valley, Nelson and Hawke’s Zealand businesses, “that $2.5b would
Bay. make a huge difference”, he says.
In June last year it bought the Booster has no objective in terms
Bannock Brae business, including
that and the Goldfield’s brands, and OIO Impacts
all the related wine stock. And in
Booster managing director Allan Yeo, who has overseen investment in four
September Tahi purchased Sileni
wineries and 350 hectares of developed vineyard, says the tightening of
Estates, including the winery and
Overseas Investment Office rules does have some benefits for New Zealand
vineyards, while also taking on some
investors. That is largely because it will stop a lot of “trophy hunters” -
of the company’s leasehold land in
overseas owners swooping in to buy an asset they like. “We feel like we are
Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay.
in a better position to compete for these assets,” he says, although guarded
In January this year, the former
about “celebrating too prematurely”.
Mahana winery in Nelson joined the
14 / Winepress April 2019Domestic buyers buoyed as rules tighten on foreign ownership
SOPHIE PREECE
Overseas investment has been “very Mike brokered the January sale of
significant” in Marlborough’s wine the former Mahana winery in Nelson
sector, with a large chunk of vineyard to Booster Tahi, the New Zealand
area in foreign ownership, says investment arm of KiwiSaver scheme
Bayleys Marlborough viticulture and provider Booster (see main story). He
winery expert Mike Poff. “We need says domestic investors have plenty
to respect that they have been really to choose from right now, as an
instrumental in establishing the New ageing population looks to get out of
Zealand wine industry.” business, either through succession
Mike emphasises that changes or sale. “I think we are definitely
to the Overseas Investment Office seeing consolidation within the wine
(OIO) rules won’t “shut the door” on industry”, he says, adding that as well
international buyers, as properties as investment funds, large family Mike Poff
not deemed sensitive or too large businesses are adding to their portfolio
may still go through. But it may make of property, and there’s interest from pool, there have been some vineyards
it more challenging to grow for the wealthy expat Kiwis looking to put not reaching vendors expected prices,
international companies already down roots in New Zealand. “We are due to a few high value properties
invested in bricks, mortar, land and seeing people increasing their asset selling in 2017, which skewed the
grapes in the region, “which may base to provide economies of scale rateable valuations in 2017 and 2018,
be a concern when you have big while they can. A good number of Mike says. “We are seeing the market
multinationals, who have really taken these assets are shifting from one determining value on the financial
our wine to the world”. generation - the baby boomers - to return from the properties and this is
The tightening of rules is likely the next, with the likely next shift a often below the rateable valuation.”
to see international wine companies generation or two away.” Businesses need to be able to
become more reliant on growers, Marlborough has 140 vineyards make money from the vineyard,
bolstering the fortunes of domestic of 20 to 50 hectares, mainly run not rely on the capital gain over
vineyard owners, who have seen the by couples aged 50 to 70 years old, time, he says. “The last couple of
balance tip against them in recent according to figures at a Succession generations have made significant
years, he says. “And off the back of Planning workshop last year. At the increases in property values on the
that, we will see more investment same meeting, the audience heard that way through, and we may struggle
companies buying vineyards to 61% of the country’s business owners to see the capital gains they enjoyed
supply wineries. It will be less are aged 50 plus. Those numbers over recent times. Now it needs to be
mum and dad investors and more mean Marlborough is going to see a profitable… you need to see a return
commercial investment groups, who “migration” of baby boomer businesses that is better than just putting money
will then have a contract with a large and land over the next 10 years. in the bank.”
multinational company.” Despite the strong domestic buyer
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Winepress April 2019 / 15Tangible - Romance of wine helps hook investors
The ability to “farm your investment” is part of the beauty regarding
of owning a vineyard, says Tangible director Steve Stuart. the purchase
“It’s not like a commercial building, where if your tenant and lease of
takes off you have to find another one. If your tenant takes land, and a
off in a vineyard environment, you can farm it.” subsequent
Investment company Tangible Ltd has purchased preference
more than $70 million worth of vineyards for syndicate toward
owners since 2011, with most of that in Marlborough grape supply
Sauvignon Blanc vineyards and bare land for agreements from
development. “We then either lease these vineyards long- the international
term or farm them on a rolling Grape Supply Agreement companies, says
From left, Paul Mead, Steve Stuart and Lyn
through a limited company or partnership, owned by a Steve. Williams
syndicate of investors and managed by us,” Steve says. When it
The investor gets direct joint-ownership of a land-based comes to investors, Tangible fishes for big players, with
asset, with a target return of between 7% and 9%, excluding each property owned by fewer than four investors, and
capital gains. most of them by syndicates of just two or three investors.
Tangible’s model revolves around having a lessee in They tend to be wealthy individuals with an affinity with
place right through the process, so that land is purchased the industry, says Steve.
according to what a winery needs, whether that’s filling a Despite the limitation of land in Marlborough, he says
missing flavour profile or supplementing vineyards in a retiring baby boomers are likely to release more vineyards
certain area, Steve says. “Effectively we like to work closely to the market. “A lot of the people who first planted were
with the wineries we have a relationship with. They are the sheep and beef farmers who took an opportunity, and
experts in where demand is growing and what they need.” they have lived through the good times and the bad times.
Tangible farms nearly 80 hectares of its total 527 They are probably reaching an age of succession…From
canopy hectare portfolio. That ratio may step up with an investment point of view that’s something we can help
the tightening of the Overseas Investment Office rules effect.”
MyFarm - Lease-based model rewards vineyard investors
MyFarm has syndicated three vineyard properties since
2016, and has a total of 185 planted hectares owned by 54
investors. Business partnerships with the property lesees
- Sacred Hill, Misty Cove and Marlborough Vintners Ltd
- were established before the land was purchased, along
with agreements setting out the wine companies’ roles in
any planned capital development projects.
The properties generate a regular return of 7% to
8% to investors, “with the underlying security of capital
preservation”, says MyFarm’s Grant Payton. “To achieve
this, we maintain lower debt levels than many private
investors with loan to value ratios of 30-40% depending on
the nature of the business.”
This Misty Cove vineyard is one of MyFarm’s three Marlborough
He says the tightening up of Overseas Investment
Sauvignon Blanc vineyards
Office rules had slowed foreign interest in the vineyard
sector and created opportunity for others, including
MyFarm, to make these vineyards more available to New “Since 2015 we have welcomed 502 investors into
Zealanders. new primary sector investment opportunities of which
MyFarm has been involved in farm syndication since less than 10% would be foreign investors,” Grant says.
1990, predominantly with New Zealand investors. Whilst MyFarm is now looking at the option of a diversified fund,
initially focused on the dairy industry, the business has offering investors access to a cross section of the sector.
recently diversified into vineyards, hops, apple, kiwifruit “Vineyards, where we run a leased based model, will make
and avocado orchards. up an important component of this fund,” he says.
16 / Winepress April 2019Forgotten
Corners
Environment Award entrants
boost biodiversity
SOPHIE PREECE
TARGETING ZERO waste to landfill environmental
by 2020 is just one of the initiatives scientist Matt
that won Pernod Ricard Winemakers Oliver, who Nic Dann with Environment Award judges Nigel Sowman and Matt
the Wine Industry category at last helped judge Oliver
month’s Cawthron Marlborough the wine
Environment Awards. Add to that category, says the company was This season, she has also planted
the company’s “carbon accounting”, recognised for the example it set for industial hemp as a trial cover crop
vineyard biodiversity programme, other large players in the industry. But between the vines (see sidebox).
and dedicated teams to predict and the competition was tough, with four Over the past 10 years, Kirsty has
tackle environmental challenges of the entrants all making a significant effort planted 500 natives, made and
future, and Pernod Ricard is “paving to improve the environment. spread a mountain of compost, used
the way for other wine companies to They included Takaki Okada seaweed fertiliser, cleared gorse, put
follow”, judges said. at Folium vineyard, who dry farms in place beehives, and kicked off a
Pernod Ricard’s sustainability 6 hectares of organic Pinot Noir pest eradication programme to rid the
business partner Nic Dann says the and Sauvignon Blanc, with a rich property of rats, stoats and possums.
zero waste work, which includes biodiversity of plantings amid his Meanwhile, Steamtech Systems
waste audits, reusable packaging, vines. “Essentially his whole vineyard is saving a huge amount of water at
grape marc initiatives, conversion to is a forgotten corner,” says Matt, Marisco winery by steam cleaning
steel posts, and pressuring suppliers referencing vineyard land that can be wine barrels, says Matt. “They were
to help them reduce or eliminate planted instead of sprayed or mown, all really contrasting entrants, which
waste, is “aspirational”. The targets mitigating the monoculture of wine made it really hard to choose.”
can seem daunting, but there’s plenty country. Dayvinleigh Vineyard also
of expectation from the company’s Another entrant, Kirsty Harkness, represented the wine industry in
Paris headquarters to ensure progress has made the most of any areas not the competition. They entered in the
is made on environmental goals, she in vines on the 69ha vineyard she co- Landscape Enhancement section
says. “It is more than a nudge, it’s a owns in the Waihopai Valley. Mount for work to clear a 4ha corner of the
reasonably big push, and it has totally Base Vineyards has 53ha of Sauvignon vineyard and restore and replant
made us think, even down to the level Blanc, as well as an orchard, olive its spring fed waterways, creating
of individuals and the packaging on grove, wildflowers for bees, and trees a habitat for native fish and bird
their lunches.” to attract native birds. species.
Pernod Ricard also won the
2015 Wine Industry Award at the
Industrial hemp cover crop trial
competition, with its company-wide
approach to continuous improvement. Mount Base Vineyards is the first grape grower in New Zealand licensed
Nic says last month’s win will add to grow industrial hemp in a vineyard. Thanks to legislation passed in
to the team’s motivation, “because November 2018, hemp seed can now be sold as a food product, and Kirsty
it makes us very accountable to the hopes the crop will ultimately provide another income stream for the
community. We have made this grand company. The January trial saw hemp planted as a vineyard cover crop in
statement that ‘this is what we do’, so every second row in certain areas. Once the seed was harvested in March,
we had better make sure this is what the remaining plant matter was mulched into the vineyard. With support
we continue to do”. from Callaghan Innovation, Kirsty has engaged scientist Mark Kraznow to
Marlborough District Council write a research paper on the trial.
Winepress April 2019 / 17Women
in Wine
The love of being brave
ANNABELLE LATZ
ERICA CRAWFORD was an aspiring landed in New
young scientist in cardiac medicine Zealand with
in Cape Town, South Africa, when my suitcase and
she became “distracted by life”. That a few degrees. I
distraction was a young Kiwi man am still here.”
called Kim Crawford, and their These
meeting led to 25-year groundbreaking days, brand
career in the Marlborough wine and market
industry, first as Kim Crawford Wines development
and now as Loveblock. “We founded keep Erica
Kim Crawford Wines in a spare room very busy,
of our little cottage - and first home particularly as
- with $20,000 between us,” she says. Loveblock is
“We had two babies 13 months apart, well on its way
which was one of the factors that to becoming
propelled us to start Kim Crawford.” established in
They pioneered a ‘virtual’ business North America.
model, which is now the “grower based, The diversity Erica Crawford
contract winery” model, she says. and vastness of
With Loveblock, their focus is on the US and its pure scale is exciting, the small and committed team at
organic farming. Estate based, they and Erica says they’re always upbeat Loveblock farm, means life is busy,
use grapes only from family-owned and willing to listen. She has a soft fun, and never stops, she says. “I’m just
vineyards, which are in the Awatere spot for Canada too, describing the two credits away from a post-graduate
Valley. “I have worked really hard to Viticulture Diploma, and juggling time
establish Loveblock over the past five for this can be tricky. I’m also a reader,
years and sometimes feel all I do is “Self-doubt and enjoy going to concerts.”
work and sleep,” Erica says. “With
family-owned companies, you are is present in Erica was also a mentor in the
Women in Wine pilot programme, and
never really off duty, and you have to
cover all job areas when needed.” most. I admire saw the opportunity as a “tremendous
gift”. Formalised mentoring allows
She loves the camaraderie of the
industry, including people helping
people who for easy access to experiences and
wisdom, she says. “For most of us it
each other with the exchange of don’t have just happened, mostly unintended, so
information and experiences, and the
lend of a hand when needed. “It is that.” we never really focussed on it.”
Seeing young people being brave
quite unique.” And it’s a life Erica may and growing in stature is her favourite
never have known had she not met Erica Crawford part of mentoring. “We so often think
Kim at a wine festival in South Africa, that we are not good enough for a job.
where he was carrying out a vintage Self-doubt is present in most. I admire
job. The pair did some to-ing and Canadians as having “the same people who don’t have that.”
fro-ing for about three years, but now delicious tentativeness as Kiwis”.
Erica has been in New Zealand longer That marketing, plus vineyard work
than she’s spent in her homeland. “I and organics, and working with
18 / Winepress April 2019Working for
Workers
Flexible employment initiative heads
into second year
SOPHIE PREECE
A MARLBOROUGH vineyard that it led to an
contractor is taking a fresh approach engaged temporary
to labour shortages, with positive workforce “and we
outcomes for the region at large. have been really
Hortus and the Ministry of Social impressed that Lucy Maclean from Hortus, left, and Lianne Nichols from MSD
Development (MSD) launched a new people genuinely
programme for part-time jobseekers did want to get into
last winter, with 15 recruits offered work”.
work three days a week from 9am to MSD labour market manager as possible to ensure jobseekers do get
2.30pm, transport and gear supplied, Lianne Nichols says the “supportive and stay in long-term jobs.”
on vineyards close to town with cell and engaging” industry-led Lucy says the 2019 programme
phone coverage. That programme will initiative was the catalyst for a new has a focus on helping people to get
be extended this winter, with even programme starting in May, with three into sustainable work. “We want this
more support for employees as they components. Recruits will be taught to be a clear pathway for them, so they
transition to full-time work. about time commitments, personal can see themselves in the workforce
Hortus people and performance motivation, exercise, nutrition, over the long term.” That’s of benefit to
partner Lucy Maclean says in last health and finances for two days a the region at large, which is grappling
year’s programme, team members week in the four weeks leading up to with widespread labour shortages, but
could take school holidays off pruning. Hortus will then offer them also to the individuals involved, giving
where necessary, went through a employment four days a week over the them a greater sense of confidence,
comprehensive induction process, and winter pruning season, with the goal she says. “I also think this could be the
had supervisors on hand at all times of being ready for fulltime permanent start of different industries working
to support and train. “We created an work from summer. together a bit more. I think that is
atmosphere where we were friendly Lianne says MSD is keen to super exciting.”
and approachable. And in return we see other employers engage with Hortus is also establishing an
had expectations of our own,” she says. jobseekers before they start work, intern programme, in cooperation with
“They had to get better every day. We so potential employees understand WineWorks. The programme will see
had to see an improvement so they had what is involved and “employers can a new or recent school leaver offered
to be focussed and committed. That look at what will make this employee one year’s work, during which they
meant calling if they couldn’t come in, successful”. Patience is required when will spend four months in the vines
listening to the supervisor and buying someone starts work, such as giving with Hortus, four months in a winery,
into the work.” And everyone did get a new staff member time to settle in, and four months with WineWorks.
better, she says. “With our ability to be she says. “Putting that time into an “They will learn about the different
flexible, along with our expectations, employee’s knowledge and wellbeing companies and cultures and jobs that
we created a cohesive programme… will foster loyalty and motivation.” exist within the wine sector,” says
In the time they were with us, they Some jobseekers have their “own Lucy. “We are really excited about
surprised themselves with how much perception” of vineyard work, while that as a way for someone to get a
they enjoyed the work, the routine and some employers have a perception of full appreciation of the opportunities
being with colleagues.” jobseekers referred by MSD, she adds. available.”
Lucy says the evaluation of the “We need to dispel these myths. MSD
trial programme clearly indicated will support good employers as much
Winepress April 2019 / 19Industry
Pioneer
Rapaura’s first grape grower remains
grateful to the oil crisis
SOPHIE PREECE
WHEN RETURNING WW1 soldiers stones dominated
were given property at ‘Moorlands’, soil. But in 1975 the
the arid Rapaura land “barely grew a Marlborough County
rabbit”, says Phil Rose. Fast forward Council decided
100 years and Phil’s Wairau River grape growing was
winery sits on that same land, “not the thing” for the
surrounded by a sea of vines on the region, and it became
aptly named Golden Mile. a controlled activity,
The barren landscape that perhaps except in the three
appalled returned soldiers has proved areas Montana had already planted, 16 in Müller-Thurgau and the rest in
rich for the wine industry, with the says Phil. “Outside of that you had to Palomino, which was intended for
combination of low fertility, low frost go for a change of land use. And we the South Island sherry market. But
risk and access to artesian water were the first guys to do it.” that never happened, says Phil. “The
creating one of Marlborough’s most The Roses had the support of industry grew at such a rate that they
hallowed stretches of wine land. Montana, who wanted to buy grapes couldn’t fill the casks fast enough
But in 1973, when Phil and Chris from them, and from the then Ministry down at Riverlands. It didn’t matter
Rose bought 100 hectares at Giffords of Agriculture, which saw potential in what they put in it, basically, and if it
Rd, they were excited by lucerne, not the land. But their neighbours, many was Palomino, it was Palomino. And it
vines. It was the year Montana planted of whom were using hormone sprays tasted alright, mixed with the Müller-
its first vines in Marlborough, with that were deadly to vines, were either Thurgau,” he says with a smile. “It was
“half of them probably upside down” lukewarm or vigorously opposed to a huge market and that is how a lot
and suffering in a “huge drought”, Phil the plan, Phil says. “It was 56 against of New Zealanders got into drinking
says. “I remember it vividly because one basically, so they declined our wine.”
I had been living in Europe for three application.” Other growers were soon active
years. I got back in 1972 and don’t The Roses still had the right to in the neighbourhood, including
remember any rain of significance plant one acre, so they did (“just for Penfolds, and everyone was learning
until the winter.” Even in the typically the hell of it”), ensuring it was up tight through trial and error, Phil says. “We
lush Spring Creek area, where his against the boundary of a neighbour were just grape farmers really. We had
family farmed, “if you dropped your who had fought them. Then, after a no idea what the market wanted, which
pocket knife you would lose it down a long wait, they argued their case to an locally was very little other than plonk.”
crack”. appeals board, by which time grapes In the early 1980s, Corbans established
He continued to focus on lucerne in the permitted areas were doing well a winery at the end of Jacksons Rd,
that first year, supplying the meal and chemical companies had replaced with Cloudy Bay and Hunter’s setting
factory owned by a cooperative of hormone sprays with alternatives, says up soon after. Meanwhile, the Roses
farmers, while using a heap of diesel Phil. were being approached by companies
to operate irrigators. So when the oil The council switched sides, now throughout New Zealand for grapes,
price rose from $2 a barrel to $11, they supporting the Roses, “so it was almost including Hunter’s, and also sold fruit
and other farmers were hit hard, and a fait accompli”, he says. “Although, to Australian producers who wanted a
the meal factory swiftly shut up shop. there was still some vigorous high acid base for their sparkling wine.
Forced to adapt, the Roses decided opposition, especially from forestry.” In 1986, the government-funded
their land looked a bit like that they’d By 1978, the Roses had permission vine pull marked the beginning of the
seen on French vineyards, where and planted their first 24 hectares - modern wine industry, says Phil. “We
20 / Winepress April 2019You can also read
