JENA MAGAZINE Welcome to paradise.
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Welcome to paradise.
JENA MAGAZINE
W W W. V I S I T- J E N A . D E / E N
Attractions and experiences
Arts and entertainment
Sports
Events
2 0 21
Shopping
Food and drink
2020
JENA HIGHLIGHTS
—
LIFE IN PARADISE
—
JENA UNDER THE MICROSCOPE
—
TRACES OF HISTORY ON
Dear readers
A TASTE OF JENA
WINDKNOLLEN HILL —
30—33
— JENA HOTSPOTS
and visitors, THE SAALEHORIZONTALE TRAIL
GO WITH THE FLOW
—
—
FINE WINES WITH
welcome to
A LONG TRADITION
—
CHILD’S PLAY!
the city of light,
welcome to
paradise! 4—19
Light is life – and Jena is all about Light is nature. The beauty of the light
quality of life, as our visitors soon find reflected in the dew of the Saalewiesen
out for themselves. Join us on a tour of meadows in the morning, the sense of
discovery around our exciting, multifa- liberation and inspiration on a walk
ceted city. Get to know the vibrant arts along the SaaleHorizontale trail, the
and music scene, stroll through Jena’s blissful feeling of a day spent in Paradies
verdant Paradies Park, and retrace the Park – here in Jena we appreciate them
footsteps of Goethe, Schiller and other all. So grab your walking shoes or get on
20—24
famous individuals who helped shape your bike and explore the magnificent
the city’s history. And while you’re ta- countryside around Jena. There are even
king a well-deserved break in one of the exciting discovery trails designed espe-
cosy cafés and restaurants, make sure to cially for children. Our website www.
try the wine that has been grown in Jena visit-jena.de offers lots of suggestions
for some 800 years. for days out.
Jena is also about passion. This is not A CULTURAL EXPERIENCE
confined to the games of local football —
WHERE TO TODAY?
team Carl Zeiss Jena, or the ScienceCity —
basketball players, or to the many other THE SOUND OF JENA´S
sporting events that take place here. PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA
—
In Jena, we are also deeply passionate We hope you enjoy THEATRE SHOULD BE FUN
about research and innovation, which —
this information and
25—27
A DAY AT THE MUSEUM
have led to groundbreaking inventions
in the field of optics. To this day, light is have a wonderful
both the focus and the main ingredient stay in our city of
of the success enjoyed by our acclaimed
high-tech companies, prestigious rese- light and Jena’s
arch institutes and creative start-ups. very own ‘paradise’.
28—29
PASSION
— SHOPPING
Your JenaKultur MARKET DAY! —
tourism team — SHOPPING WITH A VISION
MARKETS AND FESTIVALS
2 3
Jena
SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES
highlights
7
Jena –
Discover arts and culture, get a bird’s
2 from history to
eye view of Jena or explore the city’s high-tech on
green oases. See our ten tips for ideas
8
a guided walk
and inspiration and get to know our
friendly university city on the Saale
river. And if you can’t manage to fit Goethe, Schiller, Abbe, Zeiss – what would Jena
everything into a flying visit, a week- be without the many historical figures who lived
end or a short break, you’ll just have and worked here? Jena University, founded in
1558, was often at the heart of things. Friedrich
to come again! Schiller taught here, and it is also where his
friend and fellow writer Johann Wolfgang von
Goethe indulged his interest in the natural
sciences. Ernst Abbe and Carl Zeiss developed
1 3 9 pioneering products in the field of optics in Jena.
This guided tour includes the Collegium Jenense,
where the university was founded, as well as
St John’s Gate and the Pulverturm tower, the
market square with the historical town hall,
St Michael’s Church, and many other significant
locations and buildings – the perfect way of
seeing several places of interest in one go.
4 5 6
1. Reaching for the stars 3. Jena – at the heart of nature 5. Falling in love with Jena 7. Discovering art for yourself
Back in 1926, it was hailed as the The much-acclaimed SaaleHorizon- Whether it’s our regular market Great works of international art TIP
‘marvel of Jena’, and thanks to the tale walking trail is a revelation for days, or the range of markets on history for Jena and its visitors.
latest technology the Zeiss Plane- nature lovers and hiking enthu- different themes – from Christmas The city’s Kunstsammlung gallery Public guided tours are free with the
JenaCard. Holders of the card will also benefit
tarium is still attracting thousands siasts. Over the course of 72 kilo- to crafts – there is no better way presents a programme of temporary
from discounts at museums and other attrac-
of visitors today. The highlight at metres it features castles, palaces, to engage with our products, our exhibitions intended to showcase tions, offers for events, and unlimited use of
the world’s oldest continuously op- parks, forests and meadows that creativity and our passion. Well, contemporary art and stimulate 10 public transport.
erating planetarium is a full-dome could be straight out of a fairytale, apart from watching a game of discussion. The gallery is part of
digital projection that shows the but above all it offers magnificent football played by FC Carl Zeiss Jena Jena’s municipal museum, housed
sky full of stars in incredible detail. vistas of Jena. perhaps, but that’s another story in a building that is an attraction in
altogether … itself. Don’t miss it!
2. On the trail of history 4. Experiencing culture live 9. Recharging your batteries 10. Becoming an insider OTHER GUIDED TOURS
Jena is bursting with history. Six weeks of music from around 6. Enjoying poetry and philosophy 8. Hitting new heights Our two green oases are must-see Eating, drinking and shopping are
Among its oldest monuments are the the world, innovative theatre, film Goethe and Schiller were two ex- The JenTower, affectionately known attractions. As you would expect among the most pleasant holiday Jena has a lot going on, and offers a wide variety of
Carmelite Abbey, Collegium Jenense nights, thousands of happy, smiling traordinary writers and intellectu- as the ‘stack of biscuits’, is our from a park called ‘Paradies’ activities. In the delightful Wag- guided tours. The different tours focus on a range of
and the remains of the city fortifi- people and a fantastic open-air als whose remarkable achievements most recent landmark, visible from (paradise), this green space on the nergasse – also known as ‘pub lane’ aspects of the city of light. Jena has a suitable tour
cations. The Schnapphans clock on atmosphere – that’s the Kulturare- left many traces in Jena. The spirit far and wide. Its handy observation river Saale is a wonderful place for – you can do all three. Before you for any occasion – from sightseeing walks, multi-
the historical town hall is one of the na festival. This is summer in Jena of their era is captured in Schiller’s platform at a height of 128 metres walks or simply to switch off. Jena’s know it you’ll be mingling with the media guided tours, guided tours for groups and
seven wonders of Jena. The Church at its best – make sure to book your summer house. offers splendid panoramic views of botanical gardens, meanwhile, locals, picking up tips and recom- children, themed tours, and even tours with guides in
of St Michael contains the original tickets early. Jena and the Saale valley. are the second oldest in Germany. mendations, and enjoying regional historical costume.
memorial plate for Martin Luther, Home to an amazing range of more delicacies such as Jena beer and
the man who started the Refor- than 10,000 types of plant, their Thuringian specialities.
mation. But the best thing is that tropical temperatures also make www.visit-jena.de/en
everything in Jena is just a short them an ideal retreat on cold and
4 walk away. Time to start exploring! rainy days. 5
Javelin thrower Thomas Röhler from Jena travels all over the world. He was Olympic
SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES
champion at the 2016 games in Rio de Janeiro and European champion in 2018 in
Berlin, and has regularly competed and trained in England, the US, South Africa
and Finland. There are challenges waiting everywhere, and everywhere is beautiful,
exciting and fascinating. But the only place the top athlete wants to live is in his
The botanical
home city. Why? Here he takes us to some of his favourite places in Jena. garden – an oasis
in the city centre
Life in Anyone interested in plants and nature should make sure to
visit Jena’s botanical garden. Where else can you find such an
attractive oasis so close to the city centre? Thomas Röhler always
recommends the captivating gardens, which are maintained
paradise
by Jena University, to young athletes and people visiting Jena
with their families. Thomas Röhler particularly likes the cacti
and succulents. Is that because they remind him of training and
competitions in warmer climes? “No,” he laughs, “it’s because
of the challenge to get them to flower!” Goethe himself played
a part in shaping the current form of the garden, which was
founded in 1586 as a medicinal herb garden.
6 7
SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES
Jena – a paradise for students
A natural high on the SaaleHorizontale Jena is a great place for students. Everything is close at hand. It’s just
Simply switch off the smart- ten minutes’ walk from the main campus on Ernst Abbe square to the old
university building. Over the next few years, a new campus is being built
The fabulous thing about Jena is that you’re never more than 15 minutes
away from the great outdoors. As far as Thomas Röhler is concerned, that
phone, enjoy the moment, on Inselplatz, directly opposite. Anyway keen to blow away the cobwebs
means the city offers an amazing quality of life. His destination of choice
is the SaaleHorizontale walking trail, which runs along the top of the
lower the adrenaline levels. between lectures can be in Paradies Park in next to no time. The students
certainly appreciate this luxury. For Thomas Röhler, who obtained his
limestone hills that surround Jena. It’s the perfect quick fix when you’re bachelor’s degree in sports and economics here, a typical university day
looking for relaxation. And in no time at all you’re back in the bustling begins at 6am. Lectures alternate with training until the evening. His sport
city centre to get on with the rest of your day. and his education – they are both important to the Olympic champion, who
is currently studying for a master’s in business administration.
Burgau bridge, a historical monument
For 500 years, the historical Burgau bridge has spanned the Saale river,
linking the districts of Burgau and Lobeda. Thomas Röhler regards the
attractive structure as one of the sights of the Saale valley. The fast-flowing
Burgau weir is right by the bridge. By the way, two beautiful long-distance
cycle routes lead directly past Burgau bridge – the Saale Cycle Route and
the Towns of Thuringia Cycle Route. Touring cyclists should aim to include
a detour through Paradies Park right into the centre of Jena.
There’s always time for an ice cream on Coffee – ideally freshly roasted
Holzmarkt!
According to Thomas Röhler, athletes love to drink coffee. And he ought to
“I love ice cream! And my favourite ice cream comes from know. The Olympic champion likes to drop in at the coffee roastery on Markt 11
Holzmarkt. After all, athletes don’t spend all day just eating whenever he’s in Jena. Sitting in the market square, with a delicious coffee on
rice and salad …” Thomas Röhler shares his passion for the table and sometimes even a slice of their wonderful homemade cake – yes,
delicious ice cream with many other locals. The long queue at athletes do eat cake! – that is relaxation at its best. It’s a sense of home that
the Riva ice-cream parlour is ample proof of that. Holzmarkt is the javelin thrower does miss when he’s travelling the world. But even relaxa-
Jena’s central transport hub, with buses and trams going off tion requires a bit of training – especially for athletes used to constantly per-
in all directions. In the spring, the square returns to its roots forming in top gear. Simply to switch off the smartphone, enjoy the moment,
as the venue of the Thuringian Wood Market, which spreads lower the adrenaline levels and add a bit of variety to the day, that is something
across the entire city centre. Thomas Röhler resolves to do on a regular basis.
A bird’s eye view of Jena and its surroundings Wagnergasse – a relaxed and friendly vibe An outing to Schleichersee lake Start your day in paradise
“The JenTower is the ideal place to explain Jena” – that is Lunchtime, and a break in training. So where are we going to eat? That’s a very Its official name may be Südbad, but the locals continue to refer to How many people can boast that they’ve got paradise
why Thomas Röhler likes to take visitors up to its 128 metre good question! Thomas Röhler normally recommends Wagnergasse to his guests. their swimming lake in the southern part of the city as Schleichersee. right on their doorstep? In Jena this is nothing unusual!
high platform. He’s pretty much guaranteed the ‘wow’ effect. It seems to be good advice, as they’re always happy to come back. With its blend The Schleicher family used to run a gravel pit here until the 1920s. When Thomas Röhler is in Jena, in between competitions
Nowhere else offers such panoramic views across Jena and the of the medieval and the modern, and its many restaurants, cafés and small The athletes’ training ground is next door to the lake. As he practises and training camps, he likes nothing better than to start
surrounding region. Even the locals never fail to be amazed by shops, the narrow street seems more like a cosy living room. Good coffee, diverse his javelin throwing, Thomas Röhler frequently has an audience of curi- his day with a gentle run through Paradies Park. The air
the magnificent vistas – of their city, of the Saale valley, Jenzig cuisine and food to go – Jena’s Wagnergasse offers something for all tastes. ous spectators – in swimwear and with ice cream in hand. What exactly is clean, his worries drift away, and his body feels as light
hill, Fuchsturm tower, and of the Hufeisen nature conservation is it that always draws the Olympic champion back to Jena, now that as a feather. Even the rain can’t spoil his fun! A few short
area, all the way to Leuchtenburg Castle. he’s at home all over the world? “I’ve come to appreciate the feeling of sprints get the circulation going. His five kilometre lap
The full story is available at belonging somewhere – and I like the nature, and the way that people takes about half an hour. So what next? Time for a healthy
INFO www.visit-jena.de/en here are so friendly and open with each other. Other places may be athlete’s breakfast.
terribly exciting, but I’m just a guest there. My roots are here in Jena.”
8 9
SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES
Taking the auditorium back 100 years
The German Optical
Museum is going The German Optical Museum closed in July 2019 for renova-
tion and conversion. It will take a good three years to gut
to be an interactive and refurbish the building, including the replacement of
all utility lines. One of the highlights of the museum, built
research museum. in 1924 as a school for opticians, is a 100-seat auditorium,
which will be restored to its original appearance, featuring
Jena under
old-style benches complete with inkwells, a lectern with a
slate blackboard and water access, and the original lights.
The inscription ‘Per aspera ad astra’ – through adversity
to the stars, a quote from the philosopher Seneca, will
also enjoy pride of place once again. The original stairs
and floor tiles are going to survive too, but in the other
rooms nothing will remain as it was. They will receive a
the microscope
neutral décor that puts the focus firmly on the experiments
and display objects. Upon reopening, the German Optical
Museum will have just over 2,000 square metres of exhi-
bition space in which to display its treasures and offer an
interactive optics experience. This huge project is backed
by a foundation consisting of Carl Zeiss AG, the Carl Zeiss
INTERVIEW and Ernst Abbe foundations, Jena city council and the
Friedrich Schiller University.
Professor Timo Mappes is buzzing with enthusiasm on the topic of optical research. Professor Timo Mappes
Director of the German
In July 2018, he became the founding director of the German Optical Museum and Optical Museum
Professor of the History of Physics with a focus on science communication at the The full interview is available at
Friedrich Schiller University of Jena. In this interview he describes his vision for www.visit-jena.de/en
the future: to combine the latest science with the history of optics, and to transform
the museum into a showcase for optical research with international appeal. He is in
charge of the museum’s conversion and conceptional redesign that began in July 2019.
Professor Mappes, the German Optical Museum accompanying the displays. Important optical What will the museum be like after the relaunch?
We want to is being rejuvenated and will be closed for advances that everyone uses on a daily basis and Hands-on and interactive?
include them three years. Had it become outdated? that originate in Jena were not being explained.
That is about to change! We are in the process of developing an entirely new exhibition concept.
all and inspire From a global perspective the museum’s collection
is world class. Nevertheless, the exhibition had Let’s talk glasses – the museum is famous for
The German Optical Museum is going to be an interactive research museum.
We are planning a number of hands-on experiments. But we don’t want chil-
a passion for become a bit dated. We are planning to make its extensive collection of eyeglasses. Are there dren to become too overexcited and simply run from one interactive exhibit to
structural alterations and we’re also implement- any secrets that visitors might like to know? the next without having learned anything at the end. The experiments should
optics in them. ing a completely new exhibition concept. The last be interesting for everyone – kids, students and adults. We want to include them
substantial changes were made in the 1990s, and There are glasses in our holdings that haven’t even all and inspire a passion for optics in them. Until we reopen, we will be trialling
so our current presentation is no longer fit for been recorded yet – for example a collection of our new concepts with school groups, taking their feedback on board and using
purpose. We hold around 20,000 objects, and only 4,000 historical spectacles that were bought from a this to improve our plans. That will result in robust installations for the German
about 15 per cent of them were on display to visi- well-known ophthalmologist in the 1930s and only Optical Museum, which will provide the greatest possible learning impact.
tors. The new museum design will include a resid- finally paid off in the 1950s. And hardly anyone
ual collection, which will allow many more objects knows that the museum has glasses that used to Where will you be taking your own visitors while the museum is closed?
to be put on show than before. In the permanent belong to famous individuals, such as Friedrich
exhibition itself we will focus on presenting a few Hölderlin, Rudolf Virchow, Robert Koch and Helmut Jena has lots of attractive locations for visitors. I always recommend the
objects within an integrated, holistic context. In Kohl. We can paint quite the picture with these botanical garden, and the Museum of Phylogenetics with the Ernst Haeckel
addition, we will always be showcasing the latest by setting them in context. Glasses have always House, which is currently closed for renovation. These are scientific insti-
optical research findings in a way that is generally been a status symbol as well. Scissors-glasses, tutions, but still very enjoyable. However, the Zeiss Planetarium, another
accessible. Our mission is to show and explain the diamond-studded lorgnettes, glasses using smoky milestone in the global history of optics, is likely to be of particular interest
importance of optics in general, and of Jena as a quartz – they all showed that you could afford to many visitors. I would advise anyone wanting to explore the surrounding
global centre for optics in particular, in a relatable to spend money on your eyewear. They will form region when the weather is nice to head for the SaaleHorizontale walking trail
and entertaining way. The previous presenta- a very attractive part of our residual collection, and admire the city of light from above – or to hike up to Leuchtenburg Castle,
tion was very much rooted in the 1990s, with a which will allow visitors to see virtually our entire which can be seen towering in the distance. We are not planning to display
strong reliance on objects, and only German texts inventory. any exhibits at the German Optical Museum during the conversion, but we are
busy organising loans for temporary exhibitions at our partner museums.
10 11
SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES
Traces of
history on
Windknollen hill
A live battle experience An acoustic journey back in time
Every five years, the events of 14 October 1806 are If you are less interested in the tactical details of the battle but would
commemorated over the course of one weekend still like to experience history up close, you should consider the
Little did the people of Jena know in October 1806 that a battle here. The next time will be from 15 to 17 Octo- Windknollen memorial field 1806 audio walk. This interactive walk
ber 2021 – be sure to make a note in your diary! was created by artists Janet Cardiff and George Bures Miller, winners
on the hills above their city would play a decisive role in the More than 1,000 performers from around a dozen of the city of Jena’s 2004 Botho Graef Art Prize, as a memorial to the
course of European history. Napoleon’s victory in the famous countries will be gathering in the area. There will Battle of Jena and Auerstedt. It starts at Museum 1806 in Cospeda,
be plenty to see, from the three-day international from where visitors set out on a 45 minute round trip across the former
battle of Jena and Auerstedt established his supremacy in encampment at Vierzehnheiligen, the major histor- battlefield, equipped with an MP3 player and headphones. Shouted
Europe. Today, a trip to the battlefield is an ideal day out for ical re-enactment of the battle on the Saturday, in orders, screams, horses whinnying as they gallop past, shots and
the area between the villages of Cospeda, Closewitz explosions – the multi-layered soundtrack creates a vivid impression
families, nature lovers and anyone with an interest in history. and Lützeroda, or at the wreath-laying ceremony of events at the time. Listening to this rich combination of voices and
on the Sunday at the main memorial by Vierzehn- sounds provides a completely new way to experience the landscape
heiligen pilgrimage church. Farmers’ markets offer around you. Participants follow a set route based on instructions as
an opportunity for browsing and for sustenance they cross the field in step with the audio track. The audio walk is an
in the form of local specialities. The participating emotional and entertaining experience for history buffs, but equally
villages and the Jena 1806 association are looking fascinating for the whole family.
forward to welcoming thousands of visitors from
near and far.
On 13 October 1806, Emperor Napoleon mustered Museum 1806 in Cospeda Among newts and larks
his troops on Landgrafenberg and Windknollen. On the windswept hills to the west of Jena, not far from the It’s pretty windy up here! But then the clue is
Overnight he moved his artillery up the steep former battlefield, lies the small village of Cospeda. It is home to in the name – Windknollen means ‘windy knoll’.
Museum 1806, which is dedicated to the historical events that This treeless hill, where Napoleon set up camp
slopes to the top of these strategically impor- took place right on the villagers’ doorstep more than 200 years with his army in 1806, is now a designated nature
tant hills. At dawn on 14 October the fighting ago. Today it is difficult to imagine what the fighting back then conservation area that is home to a diverse range
actually entailed. We can barely guess at the hardships local of plants and animals. Protected orchids, like the
began, which ended with the French army under people had to endure, or what the soldiers’ day-to-day life would bee orchid and the greater and lesser butterfly
Napoleon inflicting a devastating defeat on the have been like. At Museum 1806, a selection of authentic objects, orchids, thrive here. Endangered field birds, such
maps and dioramas gives visitors an idea of the geographical and as the woodlark and the barred warbler, sing their
Prussian and Saxon troops. tactical course of the encounter between the French army and the complex melodies, while rare butterflies flutter
troops of Prussia and Saxony. They can also discover what led to over the semi-dry grassland. And all despite,
the twin battle of Jena and Auerstedt, and learn about the impact or perhaps because of, the fact that the area Napoleon Stone
of Napoleon’s victory on the course of European history. continued to be used for military purposes after
Napoleon’s victory. This meant that nature was The Napoleon Stone is an essential stop on Windknollen hill. This pop-
The exhibition began as the small private collection of the left largely untouched. The compacted pits creat- ular destination for locals on a day out offers panoramic views across
landlord of a Cospeda inn, but these days the museum is run ed by the tanks quickly filled up with rainwater, the Saale valley. Many a stressed-out desk jockey takes a quick run
by the Jena Institute of Military History Research. On behalf providing an ideal habitat for indigenous newt up to the Napoleon Stone after work to clear his head. On weekends,
For more tips on day trips and information of the city of Jena, this association aims to unlock the battle’s species. For walkers and nature lovers, Windknol- families meet here to fly their kites. Napoleon had the letter ‘N’ carved
INFO about Museum 1806 please visit tourism potential, for example through guided walks, lectures, len hill offers a network of paths and trails where into the stone, originally the site of a boundary stone that marked the
www.visit-jena.de/en local information panels and the expert-led development of the they are undisturbed and can enjoy the fresh border between Jena and Cospeda, to commemorate his triumph. That
exhibition. breeze on their face – close to the city, yet right stone has been lost. The current version was put in place in 1992 and
at the heart of nature. shows the distances to important places in Napoleon’s life.
12 13
SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES
The Saale- Panoramic views
for walkers and
diners
INFO
Daniel Reichel
The man at the helm of the
Horizontale trail
Landgrafen restaurant
Read the hole story at
www.visit-jena.de/en
Walking is thirsty work! After such
exertions, a cold shandy, a bratwurst
or an ice cream are just the thing.
Walkers on the western part of the
SaaleHorizontale walking trail like
A walker’s paradise to stop off at the Landgrafen restau-
rant. Affectionately known as ‘Jena’s
up here,” Daniel Reichel laughs, with a nod to the
blue skies above. “In the winter we do get cut off
quite easily – just a few snowflakes seem to be all
it takes. But even then it is glorious at the top of
The chirping of birds, the rustling of leaves and nothing but fresh, clean air. That’s what you balcony’, Landgrafen hill with its the hill.” He recommends that guests call ahead if
can expect on the SaaleHorizontale walking trail around Jena. This is where you come to spectacular views across the city cen- they’re in any doubt.
switch off, recharge your batteries and have a complete change of scene. Olaf Schubert knows tre and the Saale valley is also pop- Walkers are very welcome at the Landgrafen. The
this area better than anyone. He has worked as the municipal forester in Jena for more than ular with wedding parties. Whatever beer garden adjacent to the restaurant is ideal for a
well-earned break. A shady spot, forest all around
20 years. Among other things, he is responsible for maintaining the walking trails. Even after brings them there, Daniel Reichel, the you, panoramic views across the valley, and food
so many years, he is still captivated by the landscape of fields, forests and hills surrounding proprietor of the Landgrafen restau- and drink on hand – what better way to top up your
energy reserves and return to the SaaleHorizontale
the trail. “Every section is special in its own right.” 72 kilometres of pure walking pleasure. rant, is always happy to welcome any walking trail reinvigorated. Parties with children
guests. should consider a detour to the nearby forest play-
ground. The beer garden opens on the first sunny
Daniel Reichel has been running the Landgrafen weekend of the year and welcomes visitors every
restaurant since 2014. A qualified chef with a Saturday and Sunday until well into the autumn,
degree in business administration, he spent several depending on the weather.
years managing a catering firm, but was always on
the lookout for a suitable venue for a restaurant. As soon as the sun is out, visitor numbers on
You walk through unspoilt A large part of the walking trail runs through nature conservation
areas. The SaaleHorizontale is a habitat for animals large and small.
When the Landgrafen became available, he didn’t
think twice. The concept, the location, the furnish-
Landgrafen hill shoot up, especially on weekends.
The beer garden fills up quickly, and there are
deciduous forests that Fascinating species such as eagle owls, wildcats, partridges, king- ings – everything was just perfect. barely enough tables and chairs in the restaurant
fishers and bats are all native to this area. The countryside around and on its terrace. The first and last sunny days of
are unparalleled in their Jena is also famous for its wealth of orchids, which are a highlight on Why a hilltop restaurant? Wouldn’t a city centre the year are particularly popular with walkers and
any spring walk. There is a good chance of seeing a particular kind of location have made things easier? “When it’s nice casual visitors keen to enjoy the fresh air and the
composition. Here, you find plant or a rare species of animal on a walk along the trail. out you get fantastic views across the city from magnificent vistas.
species of trees as they existed Climbing up to the SaaleHorizontale walking trail, you have some
thousands of years ago. stunning views. You can see far into the Saale valley, with its colour-
ful meadows, ancient rocks, pine groves and beech trees. The castles
and palaces make for very special vantage points: Kunitzburg, the Hilltop inns and restaurants Dornburg Palaces
Dornburg Palaces and the castle ruins of Lobdeburg are well worth
discovering. You never lose sight of Jena, which can easily be reached
from anywhere along the trail. Why not combine an excursion into the Situated on the edge of a limestone plateau,
countryside with a culinary experience? the park and palaces offer splendid views of the
INFO For Olaf Schubert, it’s very important that people develop an under- A number of wonderful inns and restau- Saale valley. The three palaces date from different
standing of nature: “A visitor who recognises the beauty of nature rants high above the Saale river offer tra- periods (Gothic, Renaissance and Rococo), and
Olaf Schubert will also treat it with respect. The most important thing for me is that ditional cuisine and a friendly welcome. are linked to Emperor Otto I, as well as Duke Carl
Municipal forester when people go walking they are encouraged to learn about nature. But it’s the magnificent panoramic views August of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach and his privy
Allowing the forest to follow its natural cycle is part of this. That of Jena that make the Lobdeburgklause, councillor, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. The
Read the hole story at means that there are also dead trees here. Owls, woodpeckers and Fuchsturm, Wilhelmshöhe, Jenzighaus surrounding park is laid out across five terrac-
www.visit-jena.de/en small mammals live in, with and from biotopes such as these. Animals and Landgrafen truly special. es, modelled on French and English examples.
and plants work in harmony together and create the natural cycle Among its splendid features are steep vineyards,
that also makes it possible for us to live,” he explains. more than 2,000 rose bushes, and shady pergolas.
14 15
SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES
Explorers
and
adventurers
Enjoy a complete change of Cycling
in the Saale
scenery and simply let yourself
drift away, in a canoe or a rubber
dinghy. All types of water tourers
are well catered for in Jena.
There are few other cities that can rival Jena when
it comes to taking to the water – in a canoe, kayak,
rubber dinghy or on a stand-up paddle board – and
enjoying the views. On this quiet stretch of the
valley
Go with
Saale river you can explore Jena itself, along with
many other destinations in the surrounding region.
The options on offer range from short tours of the
city to half-day or full-day excursions venturing
further afield. The various waterways lead through
pretty valleys, past steep limestone cliffs, with
the flow
picturesque picnic areas, castles, palaces and other
attractions. Depending on the type of tour, the
price may also include transfers, equipment and Explore Jena by bike – as a sporting activity Saale Cycle Route
luggage containers as well as an induction to get
you started. or on a leisurely bike tour. An extensive net- First launched at the 1994 Bavarian Regional Garden Show in Hof,
work of cycling trails runs right through the the Saale Cycle Route has been linking the federal states of Bavaria,
Thuringia and Saxony-Anhalt for more than a quarter of a century.
heart of the city, with routes branching off Reason enough to get on your bike and explore it! The Saale Cycle
in every direction. Cyclists can combine sev- Route runs for a total of 403 kilometres, from the source of the
Saale in the Fichtel Mountains to Barby near Magdeburg, where the
eral attractions on one route and enjoy mag- Saale flows into the Elbe. Along the way it follows one of Germany’s
If you are spending more than just a Leuchtenburg Castle Naumburg Cathedral
nificent vistas along the way. Jena lies at most romantic rivers. This delightful route allows cyclists to com-
bine the pleasures of nature with cultural and culinary highlights.
weekend in Jena, we would strongly
the crossroads of two long-distance routes, Magnificent panoramic views across the Fichtel Mountains, the
recommend that you also explore the
The ‘Queen of the Saale Valley’ – for nearly
a thousand years, Leuchtenburg Castle
Naumburg’s Cathedral of St Peter and St
Paul is one of Europe’s most important
the Towns of Thuringia Cycle Route and the Franconian Forest, Thuringian Forest and the Saale Canyon reward
cyclists for conquering the sometimes steep inclines. The moun-
neighbouring towns and cities, as well has been sitting in splendour almost 400 cultural monuments from the High Middle attractive Saale Cycle Route. These connect tainous section near the source of the river is particularly popular
as the surrounding region. We just
metres above the Saale valley. Here, the
Middle Ages meet modern architecture,
Ages, and attracts large numbers of visitors
to the town. The cathedral, built in the
to other cycle paths that can be combined with more athletic riders. Further north the hills are gentler and
the cycling becomes less strenuous. The Saale Cycle Route leads
know that you’ll love this very special design, and above all porcelain. Artisans late Romanesque and early Gothic styles, as required to form individual circular tours. through the heart of glorious landscapes, but also right through
from around the world have created seven is renowned for the remarkable statues of German history. Museums, castles, palaces and ruins line the
part of Thuringia. You will be surprised porcelain experiences that combine to form its founders in the west chancel, created by route, which also crosses the former border between East and West
what else you can find and explore in a memorable interactive exhibition. There the Naumburg Master. In the treasure vault, Towns of Thuringia Cycle Route Germany. Jena, the city of light, in its idyllic setting between lime-
are also festivals, guided tours, and food you can embark on a journey back through stone cliffs and the Saaleaue plain, is definitely worth an extended
addition to the city of light. Enchanting and drink – every aspect of the castle is almost a thousand years of cathedral This cycle route combines some of Thuringia’s most beautiful stopover. No matter which direction you choose from Jena, both the
worth a visit in itself. And on the 20-metre history, and the cathedral garden is a lovely countryside, towns and cities. For around 230 kilometres it takes
villages along the Saale river, towns ‘skywalk’ dreams may come true. place for a stroll.
stage to Naumburg and the one to Saalfeld in the opposite direction
you to historical centres, visitor attractions and cultural highlights. are sure to be worth your while. The cycle route is divided into nine
and cities like Weimar and Erfurt, and Retrace the steps of two towering intellectuals on a tour from Schil- stages, each one a cycling adventure in its own right.
also many castles, palaces and muse- ler’s summer house in Jena to Goethe’s summer house in Weimar
Park on the river Ilm. Or head eastwards to discover one of the
ums are just waiting to be discovered. prettiest sections of the route, the idyllic scenery of the Zeitzgrund
More information on water-based activities on the river Saale, conservation area. The entire route is served by excellent rail links,
INFO and on other days out, is available at www.visit-jena.de/en making it very easy to access individual sections.
16 17
SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES
Child’s
play!
Discovering nature
with children
For families with children, Jena’s amenities make the city something close to paradise.
The vast Paradies Park on the river Saale is only a few minutes’ walk from the centre
of Jena, with extensive lawns, adventure playgrounds, cycle paths, slacklining and a
skatepark. Jena prides itself on being a family-friendly city. Visitors and newcomers are Trixi Trias dinosaur trail A specially developed smartphone app
often surprised by the sheer variety of facilities on offer. There are local youth centres, brings dinosaurs to life – simply download it
Did dinosaurs once roam in Jena? This and off you go! Your mobile phone becomes
child-friendly leisure activities, comprehensive childcare options and a wide range of educational trail is sure to convince any a time machine. The red dino mascot Trixi
different schools. So perhaps it’s not all that surprising that Jena has one of the highest doubters. The many informative and enter- Trias is your guide along the 2.2 kilometre
taining way stations make it easy to follow discovery trail which starts in Jena Ost
birth rates of any town or city in Thuringia. in the footsteps of the dinosaurs. Along the at the foot of Jenzig hill. By the way, the
way, you also learn what the local landscape developer of the virtual dinosaur world –
used to look like during that period, and Jena-based company Rooom – was awarded
which parts of it still remain today. the 2019 Thuringian Tourism Prize.
Imaginata Clever little Ux
See, hear, touch and experiment – the Imaginata is an ideal place to
TIP At 18 points of interest along this exciting
explore scientific phenomena, and stimulates all of our senses in a variety family walking trail, children learn fascinat-
There are lots of activities for children, young
of ways. This large activity park puts science at your fingertips. Take to the ing facts about Jena’s Stadtwald forest from
people and families in Jena throughout the
tightrope for some high wire cycling, explore the Hörbar (audible bar) and year. Energetic, creative, educational or just the clever little fox Ux and his mother Lyn.
the Tastbar (tactile bar), grow from a dwarf into a giant over a short dis- fun – it’s all here. The family walking event, The forest is home to a wide variety of ani-
tance, or wind your way through the light labyrinth – there are fascinating a reading marathon and the family festival mals, trees and other plants, all just waiting
things to investigate all around you. At every interactive station there is ‘Your day in paradise’ are just some of the to be discovered. Children learn why a fox’s
something new to think about. highlights. The Jena Philharmonic Orchestra burrow has different passages, why wild
and the Theaterhaus have special children’s boar like to wallow in mud, and what exactly
programmes in their repertoire. Fascinating a forester does. They can climb up into a
How do the triangular Reuleaux wheels roll? What is Leonardo’s bridge,
shows at the Zeiss Planetarium transport raised outlook or hide inside the witch’s
and why is it such a stable construction? What makes it impossible to catch you to the far reaches of the cosmos. Sitting
a ball on the Coriolis Carousel? Independent experimentation stimulates den. And even the grown-ups can learn a
bored at home or in your hotel room? No way!
visitors’ imagination and creativity. All sorts of phenomena are made much thing or two. The ‘Schlauer Ux’ walking trail
easier to understand thanks to their accessible presentation. Children of More information is available at is lots of fun for all ages. It is two kilometres
every age, and their parents too, discover the limits of our perception and www.visit-jena.de/en long and runs through the forest from Bis-
explore how our senses help us relate to the world around us – all while markturm tower to Otto-Schott-Platz.
having lots of fun! There’s guaranteed to never be a dull moment!
18 19CULTURE
A cultural Where
experience to today?
Culture buffs will be in their element in Jena, with events at the Kulturarena, a visit to the
Kunstsammlung gallery, an entertaining evening at the theatre or a concert by the Jena
Philharmonic Orchestra. The cultural encounters on offer will transport you to exciting new
worlds. That’s how we do culture in Jena.
To the Kulturarena! To the TRAFO!
The sound of Jena’s Philharmonic Orchestra Concerts do not 50 days, over 30 events and more than 70,000 visitors: Engage with contemporary art in a
the Kulturarena Jena open-air festival takes over the former electricity substation in Jena.
necessarily have to city during the summer months. It’s pretty much a From substation to arts venue – TRAFO
Simon Gaudenz is an award-wining conductor, nature enthusiast and separate season in itself, when the locals and visitors
last two hours, and to the city of light join together to celebrate one long
on Nollendorfer Strasse represents
transformation and change. A grand
Jena newcomer, but he’s still Swiss at heart. Since the start of the
2018/2019 season he has also been Music Director Designate of the
you don’t always party through July and August. This event has featured
numerous stars over the years, from Patti Smith and
piano takes centre stage, surrounded
by comfortable cinema-style seating,
Jena Philharmonic Orchestra. Gaudenz is excited about connecting with need to turn up in John McLaughlin to Rubén Gonzáles. The schedule
contains everything from plays, classical concerts and
and there’s an improvised bar in the
foyer – a most congenial meeting of
audiences, moving beyond the mainstream, and creating a unique Jena formal wear. intimate acoustic gigs to children’s activities, a club Germany’s late 19th century industrial
night series and film nights on days when no concerts architecture and modern art. Since
sound with his orchestra. are taking place. the building was refurbished in 2015,
TRAFO has become an integral part of
Jena’s artistic and cultural life, hosting
solo musicians and bands, and staging
What musical ideas would you like to imple- What was the attraction of working in Jena art projects, workshops and exhibi-
ment? as a conductor? To the Philharmonic! tions of all kinds. It’s a great place for
visitors, artists and other partners to
I am contemplating a repertoire of yearning: First and foremost, the musicians. After all, it is Passion, total commitment and a sheer love of playing develop ideas, bring them to life or
a selection of works that are – for many people – all about playing music with other people. We – an encounter with the Jena Philharmonic Orchestra simply to admire them.
the very reason for coming to a concert. They are play for people but we also play together with is quite an experience. The orchestra opens up a
pieces that they know and love. And the trick is people. The potential, the passion for playing, breathtaking musical world to its audience. The varied
then to be able to surprise visitors as well with and the high calibre that this orchestra already programme ranges from baroque to jazz, with a focus
a repertoire that is rarely played. possesses – those were the things that persuaded on classical pieces, the Romantic period and the music
me to come to Jena. I also see great potential of the 20th and 21st centuries. Hardly surprising then
INTERVIEW How would you like to make the orchestra for creating things that we don’t yet have. Being that concerts are not just held in the newly restored art To the Kassa!
more relevant? flexible, going out to the people – there are many nouveau hall of the Volkshaus, but also at more unusual
Simon Gaudenz opportunities open to us, as nothing is set in venues, such as former substation TRAFO, the Volksbad Kassablanca Gleis 1 is one of Jena’s most popular clubs thanks to the wide range
General Music Director One of our goals is to bring people to us, into the stone. There is a lot of momentum right now. arts centre or the town hall. Resounding works with of events it hosts. ‘Kassa’ attracts the type of act that you might expect to see at a
Volkshaus. But that cannot be the only solution. Young people usually bring new momentum with choirs and full orchestra, chamber concerts, the Sound bigger venue, and also provides a stage to unknown talent that often turns out to
The full interview is available at We also need to actively reach out to people. them, as well as the hunger, desire and will to of Jena festival and concerts for children and families be a real find. Club nights such as Schöne Freiheit, Überschall and Blue Night of-
www.visit-jena.de/en
Find out where they like to go, and then meet bring about change. – immerse yourself in the inspirational musical world of fer the perfect contrast to the concerts and ensure that there’s plenty of musical
them there. the Jena Philharmonic. variety for you to enjoy.
20 21CULTURE
We try to
put together
evenings that
are fun and
moving, that
energise people.
Mr Bart, you have been living in Jena Your plays deal with local issues, with – spend time with family?
with your family since the summer of the arrival in Jena and in Thuringia. We like to run from the Napoleon Stone
2018. And your partner Lizzy Timmers The view from outside challenges to Cospeda and along the Leutra river, or
also appears on stage at the Theaterhaus. ingrained habits and provokes the up Jenzig hill on the dinosaur path with
Does the city feel like home to you? audience. How have Jena audiences our son.
reacted?
We are really happy here, thank you. We Do you have a tip for people on short
love the mix of city and nature, and we go Jena audiences are very curious and breaks? What should definitely be on
everywhere by bike, just like in Amster- open-minded. It does feel a bit odd for a their to-do list in Jena?
dam. So far, the people here have been Dutch person to explain to a Thuringian
just great. We have been welcomed with what dumplings are, but it’s a lot of fun. In the summer you really ought to have
open arms. It is lovely to be playing to people who a picnic on the Saale river, or a drink at
are not yet familiar with our work. Strand 22. And Café Wagner, Trafo and
You were born in Rotterdam, have lived Kassablanca are not to be missed. With
and worked in Berlin, and you also run If you had to persuade new ensemble children, we find that the Imaginata is
another venue with Wunderbaum in members to come to Jena, what would hard to beat.
Milan. Those are all big cities with a you tell them? What makes life in Jena
Theatre
diverse cultural life. What prompted so appealing?
you to come to a smaller city and apply
to run the Theaterhaus in Jena? Jena is green. The city is small, but really
vibrant. It has forests and good cafés.
We were keen to work here because the At the moment we wouldn’t want to live
mindset and the whole climate at the anywhere else!
theatre are fantastic. Theaterhaus Jena
should be fun
has been working with collectives for years. What are your favourite places in Jena?
Its history inspired us. In the 1990s, they Where do you go to
ran this ‘Yes’ campaign here. Our dream
is for all of Jena to think: “Yes, theatre, – find new ideas?
that’s cool.” For us, making theatre means To parties hosted by Freude am Tanzen,
creating something that’s alive. We try to to friends’ homes.
put together evenings that are fun and
moving, that energise people. – blow away the cobwebs?
To Landgrafen hill, into the woods.
Jena Theaterhaus is renowned for its experimentation and its young ensemble. In October 2018, The Wunderbaum performances in
Jena are receiving rave reviews. They – eat or drink something really good?
the Dutch collective Wunderbaum took over its artistic direction. Outspoken or with tongue mention humour, self-depreciation For cake at Café Immergrün.
firmly in cheek, the plays they stage offer plenty of variety – sometimes gloriously entertaining, and Dutch charm. How do you do it?
What is the secret of entertaining – enjoy nature?
sometimes critical and thoughtful. Definitely worth a look. theatre? We go for a run in the woods every week;
Lizzy likes to ride her bike, for example
We always work with current political top- to Weimar or along the Saale river.
ics, and we write our own plays, because
we believe that this way of working allows – meet friends?
us to create a direct connection to our With children to the garden at Café
The full interview is available at
INFO www.visit-jena.de/en
audience. We have a young and talented Grünowski, and to the theatre café,
ensemble, and that inspires us! of course.
22 23SPORTS
A day at the museum
How about a museum tour? Jena’s many museums bring the city’s rich and varied history vividly
to life – and not just on a rainy day. Goethe and Schiller, the philosophers Schelling and Fichte,
the scientist Haeckel and the notable industrialists Zeiss, Abbe and Schott are just some of
the famous individuals whose work has made Jena the vibrant and exciting place it is today.
Embark on a journey of discovery!
1 3 6
Passion
1. Schiller’s summer house 6. Schott Villa
Numerous ballads and large parts of the The Schott Villa, once the home of
Wallenstein trilogy were written in the influential scientist, technologist and
quiet seclusion of Schiller’s summer industrialist Otto Schott, has an exhibi-
house. As well as the house where Schiller tion documenting his rich and varied life.
lived, you can also see his garden house Other exhibitions give visitors insights
and kitchen house. The garden still into the eventful history of the Schott
has the old stone table where Schiller company, now a global technology group. From keen athletes to those who favour a more hands-off approach
and Goethe often sat and exchanged
thoughts. 4 to sports, all comers are well catered for in Jena. Sport is something
7. Goethe Museum of a passion here. And there are plenty of opportunities to achieve
2. Museum of Phylogenetics The great poet is closely linked to the city new personal bests, and to burn off some energy by running, rowing
of Jena. He would normally stay at the or climbing, or simply by cheering on your team in the stadium.
The Museum of Phylogenetics explores the 4. Jena Municipal Museum ducal palace, later also at the Grüne Tanne
evolutionary development of a wide range & Art Collection inn, and between 1817 and 1822 at the
of species, including sponges, corals, inspector’s house in the botanical garden,
lobsters, tigers and even humans. The Jena Municipal Museum is housed in a his ‘retreat on the hill of flowers and
500,000 or so exhibits and series include late-Gothic building on the north side plants’ as he called it. Objects of his sci-
fossils and other evidence of extinct of the market square. Its permanent and entific work can be seen there, as Goethe
animal species, as well as a whole host of one-off exhibitions have been exploring also dealt with geology, botany, chemistry
birds and mammals. Today, the biodiver- aspects of Jena’s history since 1986. Ex- and anatomy. Football male counterparts, and FF USV Jena has Running
sity of insects is a key area of research for hibits include the first black, red and gold been among the best clubs in German wom-
the museum, which was founded in 1907 flag, the colours of which were to become Carl Zeiss Jena beating Roma four nil? Abso- en’s football for years. Kernberg Run, Jena Duathlon, triathlon,
by zoologist Ernst Haeckel. the symbol of the democratic movement lutely! This legendary cup tie in 1980 is one relay races, mountain runs and a 100km
in Germany. —
of Jena’s finest footballing hours. Back then, in 24 hours challenge. There are few cities
3. Romanticist House thanks to their creativity and fighting spirit, Basketball that offer as many different attractive and
5. Archaeological Collection Carl Zeiss Jena overcame the astonished demanding running events as Jena. For
The world’s only museum on Early Roman- PLEASE NOTE Italians, who were three nil up from the first Basketball is gaining popularity with fans many sports enthusiasts these events are
ticism is a memorial to a famous Roman- The Schwarz‘sches Haus, which dates leg of a European Cup Winners’ Cup tie, and in Jena – thanks to the success of the local what first bring them to Jena, where they
ticists’ meeting in 1799. The exhibition back to the 16th century, hosts regularly Jena Municipal Museum will be closed made it all the way to the final. In 2020, it is team. The team of Science City Jena has been are often surprised to discover the impres-
depicts the intellectual climate that changing exhibitions that feature items for renovation from April 2020 for the 40th anniversary of this ‘game of games’. playing in the German national basketball sive natural scenery all around the city.
allowed Early Romanticism to flourish. from Jena University‘s antiquity collec- approximately six months. The Goethe To this day, the faces of football-loving locals league since the 2016/2017 season. Home
It conveys Jena’s paramount importance tion or that focus on current topics in Museum is also being renovated. Please still light up as they recall the details of this games take place at the Sparkassen Arena in
check with Jena Tourist Information to ‘miracle of Jena’ – even if they’d barely been Jena-Burgau, which holds more than 3,000
in the period around 1800, but also the archaeology. find out details about closures or see
connection between the Early Romanticist born at the time! Jena’s women’s football spectators – just the right size for getting
www.visit-jena.de/en for information. team also has many devoted fans. The team
interpretations of nature, poetry, philoso- swept up in the sporting excitement and the
phy and art. is considerably more successful than their great atmosphere.
24 25EVENTS
Bric-à-brac and second-hand
Markets and market
There has been a growing interest in flea
festivals markets in recent years, with some real
treasures to be found among the objects
on sale. The popularity of the bric-à-brac
and second-hand markets in Jena’s city
centre extends beyond the local region,
and they attract many thousands of visitors
Strolling, browsing, exploring, tasting and chatting: to the city every month. Known as the
Markets provide a most agreeable setting for a host Trödelmarkt and Jahrmarkt in German,
they offer everything from antiques and
of different social interactions. In Jena, the various collectors’ items to books, textiles, shoes
markets present both locals and visitors with a dizzy- and accessories.
Market day!
ing array of products, crafts and tastes. —
Christmas market
It’s not surprising how many visitors make
their way to Jena in the run-up to Christ-
mas. At more than 100 seasonally decorated
Old town festival Pottery market stalls they can obtain all the large and
small treasures, gifts and treats guaranteed
Dance and shows, live music from blues and From traditional and modern crockery to to get them into the festive spirit. Jena’s
rock’n’roll all the way to brass bands – for one-off pieces, ornaments, musical instru- Christmas market has a history going back
Flowers and plants, traditional Thuringian sausages, honey, eggs, organic produce and ten days every year Jena’s historical market ments and toys, the Jena pottery market 200 years, and is one of the most beautiful
square is transformed into a party zone. The (Töpfermarkt) is a remarkable showcase markets in Thuringia. In time-honoured
plenty more besides – when the traders from the surrounding area set out their varied spreads annual old town festival, the Altstadtfest, for the pottery trade. Around 70 potters tradition, it opens with the first cut into
of regional products around the Hanfried statue it must be market day in Jena. Today, we’re attracts tens of thousands of people from present a broad spectrum of their creative a giant, four-metre-long stollen cake, fol-
near and far. Eichplatz square buzzes with output on the historical market square. As lowed by carols from a brass band. With the
following a loyal market customer on his rounds. Come and join us at the ‘Green Market’. activity – the funfair with a towering big well as opportunities to look behind the huge, brightly illuminated Christmas tree in
wheel is an absolute must. There is also a scenes, there are many hands-on activities the middle of the historical market square,
mouthwatering selection of regional and – including for children. the region’s tallest Christmas pyramid on
international food and drink. — Eichplatz square, and the historical Christ-
— mas market between St John’s Gate and the
Market days Pulverturm tower, Jena’s Christmas market
Spring fair is perfect for browsing or simply whiling
Also known as the ‘green markets’, Jena’s away the hours.
Weekend at last! Every Saturday, is quickly made: some pineapple sage with a asparagus from Kutzleben, vegetables from As the merry month of May begins in the market days offer a wide variety of products
fresh, fruity scent ends up in his cycle pannier. Gera and Erfurt, fruit from Gierstädt – and all
keen cook Wolfram Lützner cycles at a reliably high quality. This is the place to go
Thuringian city of Jena it signals the start from the surrounding region. An extensive
of the spring fair in the historical old range of organic foods, seasonal fruit and
to the market, as early as pos- The route then goes via the bakers’ vans with for anyone looking for seasonal ingredients. quarter. Jena’s spring fair, the Frühling- vegetables and a large selection of dairy INFO
their tasty traybakes, and via the butchers Currants, plums, gherkins, sauerkraut – the
sible, when there are few people offering typical Thuringian specialities. A loaf small but diverse product range encourages
smarkt, is a celebration for all ages and all products, along with the Thuringian meat
For more information see
backgrounds – a festival for everyone. The and sausage specialities that are popular
around and the stalls are still of bread from an organic stall here, a jar of spontaneous purchases for the weekend. programme is captivating, varied and guar- throughout Germany, attract large numbers
www.visit-jena.de/en
summer-harvested honey there, and some eggs
offering their full range. He is big from a local farmer – our guide takes his time A quick chat at the Tultewitz cheese stall.
anteed to entertain. You can look forward of shoppers every week.
to fantastic food and drink, live music, a
on products that are fresh, locally as he ambles through the market and looks for Volker Rieke and his wife Berit have devoted film night at the open-air cinema, and a
inspiration. themselves to sheep’s cheese. At their cheese
sourced and of the highest quality. dairy in Tultewitz near Naumburg they produce
lively funfair.
The next stop is Günter Töteberg’s vegetable excellent unpasteurized cheese, cream cheese, —
His first stop is Jena gardener Jürgen Müller. stall. The friendly trader is always ready with yogurt, feta and ricotta – all made from the Wood market
Müller’s colourful assortment of plants is set up a joke and soon has his customer engaged in milk of their own sheep. The cheese specialists
outside the town hall, and his broad-rimmed conversation. He gets his produce locally – like to experiment with herbs and olives, and Wood is an incredible natural material
hat makes him easy to spot from a distance. He regularly surprise their customers with new that often doesn’t get the appreciation it
doesn’t just sell bedding and balcony plants, flavours. Our market guide samples a full-fla- deserves. That was the original idea behind
but also perennials, vegetables and herbs. voured Tomme de Brebis. Simply delicious! the Jena wood market – the Holzmarkt.
Above all, he provides excellent advice. Müller There is plenty to see and do, including
takes his time with his customers and expertly For Wolfram Lützner, the Saturday market exciting demonstrations, hands-on activi-
answers any questions. Hardy tarragon, old tour is his start to the weekend. By now he ties, and an introduction to traditional and
Peruvian tomato varieties, artichokes – anyone knows the entire product range and most of modern occupations involving wood. Craft
looking for something a bit special is sure to the stallholders. Chatting to traders, meeting stalls from a range of exhibitors invite you
find it at his stall, and they can rely on the gar- friends and like-minded people, drinking an al to browse, buy or have a go yourself. There
dener’s hints and tips, because Müller knows fresco coffee in the sun, enjoying the relaxed are also plenty of activities to keep younger
how the plants will react to local conditions and atmosphere and taking life as it comes – that’s visitors happy.
what care they require to thrive. His parti- the market vibe in Jena!
cular speciality are herbs. Lützner’s decision
26 27You can also read
