KAWAKAWA BAY A GUIDE FOR ROCK CLIMBERS - Opus Locus
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KAWAKAWA BAY A GUIDE FOR ROCK CLIMBERS February 2019 v6
KAWAKAWA BAY
A GUIDE FOR
ROCK CLIMBERS
February 2019 v6
CONTENTS
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Cracks Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Welcome Wall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Lower Bluff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Upper Bluff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Predator Pinnacle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Jugzilla gully . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Caveman Buttress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Dream Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Sesame Street Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Eagle Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Elephant Buttress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
The Tombstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
The Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Little Red Riding Hood Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Wall Of Sirens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
New Wave Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Odyssey Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Index By Name. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Index By Grade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Writers: Dan Head, John Pitcairn, Rob Addis, Gerard
Tarr, Stephen King, Cliff Ellery and others.
Editing, design & production: John Pitcairn.
Thanks heaps to Rosie for putting up with me.
Thanks to: Dan Head, Rob Addis, Cliff Ellery, Gerard
Tarr, Michael Donovan, Bryce Martin, Stephen King,
Grant Johnston, all the developers, photographers,
previous guidebook contributors and you!
Cover: (L to R) Dan ‘Caveman’ Head on Foo Fighter, photo by Dave
Michael Pavitt and Harrison Peacock on Hood; Becky ‘Flash’ Hart on Captain Caveman, photo by Dan Head;
Kawakawa Bay’s iconic trad multipitch route signs, photo by Ines ‘Indie’ Benlloch.
The Odyssey. Photo: Gerard Tarr.
Kawakawa Bay 2
INTRODUCTION
by John Pitcairn
tKawakawa Bay is on the northern shores of Lake
Taupo, 5km (as the tui flies) west of Kinloch. At the
eastern end of the bay are a number of rhyolite cliffs,
overlooking native bush and the lake. There is a mix of
trad and sport routes, both single- and multi-pitch,
which will appeal to climbers at most levels. With a
high number of easy and moderate trad climbs, and
generally trustworthy rock, the bay is a great place to
come and learn to climb on natural protection.
ACCESS
The Kawakawa Bay walkway and mountain bike track
is part of the Taupo Great Lake Trail and is clearly
signposted, starting from the western end of the beach
in Kinloch. Vehicles may be parked on the roadside in
Kinloch, but do not leave your vehicle parked in the
marina carpark. The 10km walk takes around 2 hours
and offers good views of the lake, bay and bluffs from
the summit saddle. The track is shared with with
mountain bikers – walkers should give way to bikes.
There is no drinking water available on the track.
CAMPING not put rubbish down the toilets. Leave the bay as you Since then, Dan Head and others have added many
Alternately, you can walk or bike in on the mountain There is a grassy campsite behind the main landing would wish to find it. trad, mixed and sport routes to the bay, opened up
bike trail from further along Whangamata Road, spot on the beach, with the mountain bike track run- entirely new walls and added new multi-pitch routes.
approximately 20km from Kinloch township. This ning through it. A large day shelter and toilet are about Mobile phone reception at the bay is generally poor. Dan has undertaken the rebolting of many older
approach is mostly downhill, though your car may be 30m further west of the campsite just off the track, The best signal close to camp is about 50m or more runout sport and mixed routes to provide a more con-
less secure if left at the track entrance. and the old but still usable toilet about 50m east. past the water-ski lane post on the beach to the west, sistent experience. These efforts have been supported
Additional small campsites are scattered through the better out at The Point, or on the ridge track to by the NZ Alpine Club bolting fund, Bryce’s Rock
Do not attempt to access the bay via private land, and do bush in both directions. Do not make more clearings. Odyssey Wall. As is typical of rural New Zealand, Climbing, AURAC and public donations.
not request access across their land from private phones on the Spark network (Spark, Skinny, etc)
landowners. Kawakawa Road does not provide access Fires are not permitted at any time of year. Please respect generally have better reception than those on the Please donate to help cover development and mainte-
to the bay. Stick to the track. this rule to avoid creating problems and potentially Vodafone network (Vodafone, 2Degrees, etc). nance costs – contact Dan Head via the Kawakawa
losing access to climbing in the bay. If you see some- Caveman Services facebook group.
Many prefer to avoid the walk (good as it is) and body with a fire, politely inform them of the fire ban HISTORY
travel to Kawakawa Bay by boat or kayak. Note that and ask them to put their fire out. The crags at the bay were initially pioneered by As of this edition of the guide, there are more than
conditions on the lake can be very changeable, severe Stephen King from 2004, beginning with Gecko 200 routes at the bay, with more development
chop may develop very fast if the wind comes up, and There is no water available at the bay except the lake Groove and Rohan’s Arête. In 2007 Stephen King, John expected through summer 2019.
landing at the bay may be difficult for small craft in water. Many people drink this untreated, but you may Pellew and others undertook extensive rebolting,
strong winds. A water taxi for up to 5 people and gear wish to filter, treat or boil the lake water for your own assisted by donations from www.freeclimb.co.nz. GEAR
can be arranged with Susan at www. fishher.co.nz. use. You should probably avoid taking water from any- Helmets are highly recommended for climbers,
where near ducks or boats, and check whether the In the summer of 2011, Dan Head, Rob Addis and belayers and anyone at the base of routes. There may
Dogs are permitted at the bay, but keep your dog Taupo District Council has any water quality warnings Matt Thom added over 50 new pitches to the bay, with be loose rock or windfall above.
under control at all times, there are many native birds for the bay. the majority climbed ground-up on gear. Dan added
(including kiwi) in the area. Please consider leaving many 45m+ bolted lines left and right of High Hopes at On multipitch routes leader and followers should
your dog at home. Environment Waikato are currently There is no rubbish collection at the bay, all rubbish The Point. Exploring further afield, the crew sent The carry prussiks or other ascending devices, know how
monitoring the impact of climbers, boaties and moun- must be carried out with you. Please do not leave any- Odyssey, an inspiring first line on what has now to use them, and the leader should know how to lower
tain bikers, don’t blow it for everyone. thing behind at the campsites or in the shelter and do become known as Odyssey Wall. or haul followers with the gear available.
INTRODUCTION Kawakawa Bay 3
Introduction continued…
For fully bolted pitches, the most you will probably range of equipment, and provides a delivery service ROUTE GRADES & DESCRIPTIONS Route names may include 1-3 stars:
need is a 60m rope and a rack of 14 quickdraws. Any- throughout New Zealand: shop.rockclimb.co.nz. Grades are given in Ewbank (18, etc) for each pitch. ★★★ An all-time classic route for the whole bay.
thing more is noted in route descriptions. Approximate equivalent French grades (6a+, etc) are ★★ An excellent route, must-do for the cliff.
DISCLAIMER given for sport routes, and Yosemite grades (5.10a, ★ A very good, interesting or popular route.
For trad routes, you should have a full set of nuts from The authors, publishers and landowners take no etc) for trad or mixed routes.
Wild Country or DMM #1 (Black Diamond #4) to responsibility whatsoever for the accuracy of any Routes are always numbered left to right, facing the
WC/DMM #10 (BD #13). Offset nuts and micro- information in this guide, or for any damages, injury, Ewbank French Yosemite Boulder
cliff. Route numbers use the following markers to
nuts (RPs and micro offsets) can also be useful. Bring disability or death resulting from the use of this guide, 8
indicate the type of route:
cams from BD #0.2 to #4, larger if mentioned in the and do not guarantee the safety of any access trails or 3 5.2
9
route descriptions. Hexes are often very handy if you of any fixed gear including any bolts, anchors, pegs or 1 A fully bolted sport route. The route can be
10 4a
have them, and there can be satisfyingly sneaky tricam fixed lines mentioned in descriptions or indicated on 5.3 climbed in full on bolts, with bolted anchors.
11 4b
or even ball nut placements on some routes. Extend- topos. All trails and fixed gear should be assessed by Some routes or pitches may optionally climb
able (alpine) quickdraws are useful, as are some you at the time you use them, and proceed at your 12 4c 5.4 well on trad gear, as noted in the description.
VE
additional 60cm and 120cm slings. own risk. At all times, climb entirely at your own risk. 13 4c+ 5.5
14 5a 5.6 1 A trad or mixed route. There may be some bolts,
For the more adventurous trad routes on Odyssey ABOUT THIS GUIDE 15 5b 5.7 but you will definitely need trad gear (and know
Wall etc, you will be building trad anchors. Bring a Assembled from a variety of sources, while not fully 16 5c 5.8 how to use it) to climb the full route, and you
cordelette or other suitable anchor-building material. complete this is the most comprehensive guide cur- 17 6a 5.9 will possibly need to build trad anchors (noted
A double set of cams is recommended, as are double rently available for Kawakawa Bay. More frequent 18 6a+ 5.10a in description if so). Some beta about protection
VM
ropes and additional extendable quickdraws. A short updates are planned with more/better topos and 19 6b 5.10b and anchors may be included, generally for gear
and long pre-tied prussik cord or other ascending other improvements. Apologies for any errors and 20 6b+ 5.10c that may not typically be carried.
V0
devices may help get you out of trouble. Take a head omissions. Complaints, corrections, suggestions, new 21 6c 5.10d
torch on multipitch routes. route details, better topo photos, etc, may be emailed 22 6c+ 5.11a/b V1 1 This route is currently a project, included to
to kawakawa@opuslocus.com, or posted to the 23 7a 5.11b/c V2 avoid confusion. Please stay off if closed.
If you need gear, Bryce’s Rock Climbing Shop is on Kawakawa Caveman Services facebook group. 24 7a+ 5.12a V3
the way south from Hamilton, stocks a comprehensive 25 7b 5.12b V4
ROUTE TOPOS
Topo photos are the best available at production time.
26 7b+ 5.12c V5
Area overview photos and route topos use the
27 7c 5.12d V6
following symbols:
28 7c+ 5.13a V7
29 8a 5.13b V8
Route line.
30 8a+ 5.13c V9 Project line. Do not climb if closed.
Scramble or fixed rope.
Grade consistency may vary somewhat depending on Access trail.
the age of the route, the developer and first ascen-
tionist, and the general difficulty of the area. 1 Route number, corresponding to the description.
No distinction is made between sport and trad.
Anything with “bouldery” in the description could be Linkups are generally not numbered.
1-2 grades harder or more at that point (a V-grade may
be given for that move or sequence). Where a split 1 Project route number. Please stay off if closed.
grade (16/18, etc) is given, this indicates alternate
possible paths may be taken. Bolted anchor you can rap from without leaving
gear – rings, chains, ram’s horns, etc.
Route and pitch lengths are in metres, where known.
The number of bolts is included in the route descrip- Bolted anchor you can’t rap from without leaving
tion (where known), separately for each pitch, and all gear – typically double hangers.
Shannon Greenfield and Shane Coulston arrive pitches have bolted anchors unless noted. Developer
at the bay in style. Photo: Michael Donovan. and first ascent details are included where known. Build a trad gear anchor, sling a tree, etc.
INTRODUCTION Kawakawa Bay 4
CRACKS WALL
21 routes, 21 pitches, pitch grades 14-26. 쏹 쏹 쏹
Summer shade until mid morning.
쏹 쏹 쏹 쏹 쏹
쏹 쏹
쏹
Cracks Wall is the most convenient of the cliffs at 쏹
Kawakawa, just 3 minutes from the lake, toilet and
campsite. Walk back on the mountain bike trail
towards Kinloch for about 100m from the signpost.
The track branches off right and heads uphill, arriving 쏹
at the cliff directly in front of Rohan’s Arête.
The climbing here is excellent, with a number of trad
routes and a handful of sport routes, generally on 쏹
fairly clean rock.
1 Anaphylaxis 12m, 5.10a 18
4m left of Jabba The Hut. Beware of the bees.
Climb the steep hand crack (crux), then traverse 1
right for pro. Finish up the arête to a tree belay,
2
walk off left. Gerard Tarr, Mr Colorado, Jan 2012.
2 Jabba The Hut 15m, 5.6 14
Start in the dirty corner near the kanuka tree. 3
Traverse right near the top and finish up The Slot
Machine. Heather Brockway, 23 Oct 2005. 4 16 18 19
5 12 13 15
3 The Slot Machine ★ 15m, 5.9 17 6
The obvious good hand crack. Stephen King, Cliff 17
Ellery, 6 Aug 2005.
7
8 21
4 Sunset Boulevard ★★ 18m, 5.10a 18 9
Packs a lot in. The left-trending chimney layback 10 11 14 20
turns into a right-trending flake and hand crack,
then finishes up the arête and thin face (save
some small cams). Matt Thom, 23 Oct 2005.
8 Flake 7 ★★★ 25m, 5.10a 18 nally climbed with no pro) to gain the corner 13 The Gecko Groove ★★★ 28m, 5.8 16
5 Coconut Bikini Arête ★ 19m, 6c+ 22 The flake/crack system with a low small roof. and small gear. Up the corner passing a suspect Excellent climbing up the right-hand crack
8 bolts. The blunt arête with continuous tech- Move to the right under this onto the face, up to block and exit left to a ledge or right to Great system. Save your big gear for the top. Stephen
nical climbing in the lower half will have you get established in the thin crack above (crux), Scott’s anchor. Stephen King, 30 July 2005. King, 3 Oct 2004.
singing for jugs. Gerard Tarr, Jan 2013. then easier climbing follows. Great moves, well
protected. Stephen King, 28 Aug 2005. 11 Great Scott ★ 27m, 6b+ 20 14 Rohan’s Arête ★★★ 28m, 6c+ 22
6 Outboard Crack ★★ 20m, 5.9 17 10 bolts. The thin face broken by a couple of 11 bolts. Wicked climbing in a stellar position
Fun climbing up the right-trending jam/layback 9 Get Back In TIme 25m, 7a+ 24 small ledges, with a crux getting onto the second on the long arête at the right of the cliff, staying
crack system. Matt Thom, Kevin Barratt, 6 Aug 8 bolts. The thin technical arête right of Flake 7. ledge above the arête. Veer left at the top. John right of the bolts. Stephen King, 3 Oct 2004.
2005. Contrive to stay on the arête, don’t use the crack. Dawkins, 23 Aug 2006.
Martyn Owen, Jan 2017. 15 Back To The Future ★ 15m, 7b+ 26
7 The Lizard King ★★ 22m, 7a+ 24 12 Blindman’s Bluff ★★ 28m, 5.8 16 7 bolts. The face to the right of Rohan’s Arête.
7 bolts. The steep and scooped face left of Flake 10 Critters Corner 27m, 5.10a 18 The left-hand crack line with a corner and over- Martyn Owen, 27 Aug 2006.
7. Crux between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Stephen The long open-book corner and thin crack. Start hang at half height, widening towards the top.
King, 24 Oct 2005. up the slab left of Great Scott (a retrobolt, origi- Matt Thom, 30 July2005.
CRACKS WALL Kawakawa Bay 5
Cracks Wall continued…
WELCOME WALL
2 routes, 3 pitches, pitch grades 17-22.
Summer shade until mid morning.
16 Crack To The Future ★ 15m, 5.12b 25
Traverse into Back To The Future via a trad crack
3m up on the right, skipping its first hard 2 bolts.
Dan Head.
The big wall high above and right of Cracks Wall. Take
17 Mr Bastard 15m, 5.10c 20 the path up from the left end of Cracks Wall and head
The thin seam at the back of the gully, up to the right when you are above it. There are a few (not
slab. Stephen King, 17 Sep 2006. enough) cairns leading to the right end of a vegetated
cliff and a spur. A hand line leads up the spur and back
18 The Crack Whore Next Door 12m, 5.7 15 left above the vegetation to reach the routes.
The bridge corner and serrated crack, moving
right to top out above the Rohan’s Little Sister 1 Fully Developed Frontal Lobes 35m, 6c+ 22
anchor. Excellent protection. Commit to the 12 bolts and a slung tree. Climbed to celebrate
crack lower if you want harder. John Pitcairn, Tim Donovan’s 25th birthday and the cheap car
Swain, Rob Addis, 6 Jan 2019. insurance that comes with it. Conceived as a
trad route, bolted on lead when Romain couldn't
19 Rohan’s Little Sister ★ 12m, 5c 16 find any gear. With some big rocks scaled in the
4 bolts. Shady much of the day. Traverse out process and still requiring some cleaning, this 쏹
over the drop (trad protection possible) to reach route isn’t for the 8a.nu aficionados. You’ll need 쏹
the first bolt and arête, then delicately up. long draws/slings and a 70m rope (or double
Heather Brockaway, 28 Aug 2005. ropes) to get off. Romain Albert, Michael Donovan,
25 Feb 2018.
20 Closed Project
A direct start to the Rohan’s Little Sister arête 2 Welcome To Kawakawa ★ 40m
from about 5m below. Please stay off. Rob Addis. 5.10c, 5.9 20, 17
The right facing clean corner. Take an extra set
21 Biggie Smalls 14m, 5.10a 18 of small/micro cams. 1) 30m: From the end of 쏹
Climbed ground-up but still being cleaned. The the rope scramble up 8m to a big ledge, then
corner leading up and left to the Rohan’s Little climb up to gain the arching undercling crack.
Sister anchor. Rob Addis, 28 Jan 2019. Follow this into a big corner which steepens and
tightens, then escape left to a slab and anchor. 2)
More trad and sport routes are currently being developed 10m: Step up then move left into the corner,
in this area. If it looks like it is being cleaned or is bolted mantle to the anchor. Dan Head, Gerard Tarr, Jan
but not listed above, then it’s a project – please stay off. 2013.
1 2
Romain Albert on Fully Developed
Stephen King on The Gecko Groove. Frontal Lobes. Photo: Michael Donovan.
CRACKS WALL WELCOME WALL Kawakawa Bay 6
The Bluffs as seen from the beach in front of the main campsite.
UPPER
BLUFF
JUGZILLA
GULLY
To Upper Bluff
walk-off and
Odyssey Wall
LOWER BLUFF
PREDATOR
PINNACLE CAVEMAN
BUTTRESS
ELEPHANT BUTTRESS To Tombstone
and The Point
EAGLE
WALL SESAME
STREET WALL
To Campground
THE BLUFFS Kawakawa Bay 7
LOWER BLUFF
27 routes, 36 pitches, pitch grades 10-23.
Summer shade until mid morning and from mid afternoon 쏹
쏹 쏹
on many routes.
The Bluffs are the set of cliffs that can be seen from 쏹
camp. Sheltered from southerly wind and weather,
with a wide range of quality routes from easy sport or
trad beginner lines to harder test pieces, The Bluffs are
a great place to spend an entire day.
Follow the lakefront track east past the old long drop
toilet. Soon afterwards the track branches uphill and
follows cairns, passing a small rock overhang, then 쏹
steepens up to the Lower Bluff. The track arrives in
front of Peach Teats, Dirt Free and Reggae Shark. 쏹 쏹
7
1 Sugar Rush 15m, 5c 16
5 bolts. 5m left of Kykkeliky at obvious block 2 3 11
with layback start, to a well protected crux and
slab finish. Jono & Jess McDonald, 2015. 쏹
2 Kykkeliky ★★ 25m, 5.9 17
Pronounced KOO-kee-lee-KOO. Up the wide 9 13 14
chimney to a runout but easy cave then steeper
well-protected layback finish. Tree or gear belay, 1 4 4 5 6 8 10 12 15
walk off above to meet the Upper Bluff track.
Gerard Tarr, Mia Kvale Lovmo, Apr 2012.
4 Jug Addiction ★★ 20m, 5c 16 8 Pinch And A Punch ★★ 14m, 6b 19 11 Pink Fluffy Unicorns 6m, 5b 15
3 Bilingual 20m, 5.9 17 8 bolts. Super popular. Up the left face and arête 7 bolts. In the narrow gully, up the face left of 4 bolts. An extension continuing up the arête
Start as for Kykkeliky on trad gear then escape on juggy pockets. For an easier start, begin left Pimple. The low first bolt is to protect the above the My Little Pony anchor. An excellent
right to the 4th bolt of Jug Addiction. 5 bolts. and swing in after the first bolt. Heather Brockway, belayer (if you can reach it). Very sustained and option to teach multi-pitch basics. Dan Head,
Erick Johnnson, 5 Nov 2006. 29 Jul 2006. technical on sharp holds – stay right at the 3rd 2015.
bolt or get suckered off-route and stuck. Michael
5 Sundowning Syndrome ★ 20m, 6b+ 20 Donovan, 1 Jan 2018. 12 Dancing On Rainbows ★ 12m, 5a 14
7 bolts. Follow the crack and ledge system, 5 bolts. Some cool holds and moves. Was cams
veering right at the bulge to meet the top arête of 9 Pimple 12m, 6a 17 in pockets, now fully bolted. Dan Head, 2015.
Hugs Not Drugs. Was 19, still tricky for the grade 6 bolts. “A nice spot”. Start in the alcove to the
and may feel a tad run out. Andrew Whitemore. right of the arête, up through scoops to meet the 13 Little Miss Naughty 12m, 5.8 16
arête. Gerard Tarr, 2015. Start at Peach Teats, traverse left and up to meet
6 Hugs Not Drugs ★ 20m, 6c+ 22 Pink Fluffy Unicorns. Cams in pockets. Dan Head.
9 bolts. Has it all – slab, crack, face, slight over- Routes 10-15 are on the ‘beginner’s wall’. Short and well
hang, arête. Put your good shoes on, stay on the protected, anchors can be reached by scrambling up the 14 Peach Teats 12m, 4c 13
line of bolts and don’t use the jugs out right. Dan gully at left. An excellent option for top roping or teaching 5 bolts. Directly up the right end of the face. Was
Head, Stephanie Das, May 2018. sport, trad (with bolt safety close at hand) or even multi- trad (cams in pockets) now fully bolted. Matt
pitch basics. Wootton (solo), 1 Apr 2012.
7 Secret Squirrel 20m, 5c/6a+ 16/18
9 bolts. Technical climbing up the face and slab. 10 My Little Pony 6m, 4a 10 15 Dirt Free 12m, 5.7 15
Best start is direct up the face (18), but an easier 3 bolts. Climb the left arête. Was trad (cams in “Everybody deserves access to high quality dirt life”.
Dan Head on the first ascent of RH variation (16) starts around the arête on 3 pockets) now fully bolted. Dan Head, 2015. The gully with the twin cracks, finishing left to
Reggae Shark. Photo: Ines Benlloch. separate bolts. Dan Head, Stephanie Das, May 2018. the Peach Teats anchor. Robert Scott, 2017.
LOWER BLUFF Kawakawa Bay 8
Lower Bluff continued…
Right of the access track arrival point is a complicated cliff above the kowhai tree, but it is best to link 쏹
running all the way to the top of the Bluff. The first bolted straight into: 2) 12m, 7 bolts: Up the bolted
line right of the access track is Reggae Shark. arête to its anchor, then take the hand line down
and right. Beware of loose rock, the track and
쏹
16 Reggae Shark ★★ 80m Predator are directly below. 3) 15m, 6 bolts: Up 19
6a, 5a, 6a, 7a 17, 14, 17, 23 the wall onto the slab and shady belay. 4) 13m, 6
Vive la birthweek! Fully bolted, well protected bolts: Continue, be wary of ledge-fall potential.
fun and varied climbing, all pitches with rap P1, 3, 4: Dan Head, Rob Addis, Feb 2018.
anchors. P1-2 can be linked, and optionally pro-
tected on trad gear if desired. 1) 25m, bolted: 23 Don’t Hurt My Kowhai ★ 55m
17 18 쏹
Up the featured face. 2) 15m, bolted: Continue. 5.10a, 5.9 18, 17 쏹
At the top, scramble right a few metres. 3) 25m, 1) 35m, 11 bolts: Start past a bolt to the finger
bolted: Climb the exquisite corner. 4) 15m, crack, ledge and kowhai tree, then continue up
bolted: Drop down a few gears and crank up the obvious bolted arête. 2) 20m, 3 bolts: Climb
through overhanging teritory. Dan Head and Ines up and left on the pillar (bolt), then up to
23
Benlloch, 25 Feb 2017. another crack system and roof. Pull through on
the right (2 bolts) to finish on the ledge above.
22
17 Inside Of You 10m, 5.9 17 Stephen McInally, Stephen King, 30 Jun 2006.
The leftmost short chimney, the crux is getting 쏹 쏹
out. Dirty, no anchor, getting off may be awk- 24 Iboga ★ 30m, 5.9 17
ward and loose. You’ve been warned… Blair As for Don’t Hurt My Kowhai, but at the ledge
Johnston, 10 Jan 2013. and kowhai (2-hanger anchor) traverse right to
reach the intimidating crack and layback flake. 쏹
23
18 Inside Of Me 10m, 5.10a 18 Take at least doubles of #2-3 cams. Beware of 22
The rightmost short chimney, with similar prob- loose rock, the track and Predator are directly
lems to Inside of You. Stephen McInally, 10 Jan 2013. below. Ryan von Haesley, Matt Thom, 25 Nov 2006. 쏹
쏹 24
19 Spanna In The Works 12m, 7b 23 25 Awesome Mixed Route Vol 1 55m 26
쏹
5 bolts. Left of Reggae Shark’s 4th pitch, easier to 5.9, 5.9, 5.9 17, 17, 17
second than rap-clean. Edwin Sheppard, 2017. A more natural linkup, AKA Honey, Ibogaed My
Kowhai. Climb Iboga, then take the hand line up
20 Closed Project and left to return to the top pitch of Don’t Hurt
5m right of Reggae Shark. To be cleaned and My Kowhai. Beware of loose rock, the track and
쏹
bolted. Please stay off. Dan Head. Predator are directly below. Dan Head.
쏹
21 Hood’s Easy Project 20m, 5c+ 16 26 The Medicine 45m, 5.10a 18 쏹
Open, bolted and climbed, needs a clean. 10m Originally climbed solo. As for Iboga to the flake
right of Reggae Shark, up the face before the but keep going right and finish as for Ayahuasca.
27
gully. Dave Hood, 2018. May need to be 2 pitches to avoid rope drag.
Ryan von Haesley (solo), 26 Nov 2006.
Climb the hand ropes to the left of Predator Pinnacle to
get to the next six routes. 27 Ayahuasca 45m
5.10a, 5.10a 18, 18 22 23
22 Guardians Of The Galaxy ★★ 60m The wall directly behind Predator Pinnacle. 1)
6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+ 18, 18, 18, 18 30m: Start in the corner, follow the crack up the
Adds 3 new bolted pitches to the original arête slab to the undercling flake (trad belay). 2) 15m:
of Don’t Hurt My Kowhai. Sustained with funky Follow the flake right then climb the thin crack
16 20 21
sloping features and interesting moves. 1) 20m, to the top (tree belay). Ryan von Haesley, Carsten
10 bolts: Follow the bolts to any possible anchor Rabe, 24 Nov 2006.
LOWER BLUFF Kawakawa Bay 9
UPPER BLUFF
11 routes, 13 pitches, pitch grades 16-27.
Early sun, summer shade from early afternoon.
쏹
쏹 쏹
To reach the Upper Bluff, walk to the left end of the 7 Tour Of Duty ★★ 30m, 7a+ 25
Lower Bluff then follow the track up the valley above 8 bolts. Up the first four bolts of Altar Of Mad-
until it branches right, arriving below Sex Panther. The ness, then straight up instead of traversing left.
left track leads to Recycling Nachos and the very top of First ascent unknown. 9 쏹
the Bluffs.
8 Morbid Visions ★ 25m, 7c 27
1 Spiddley Spooge 20m, 5.11a/b 22 8 bolts. The direct line of Altar Of Madness, 쏹
Left of Recycling Nachos. 6 bolts and one cam (to sharing its first two and last two bolts. Stephen
be retrobolted). Steven McInally. King, 12 Jan 2007. 쏹
2 Recycling Nachos 20m, 6c+ 22 9 Be Rude Not To 10m, 6c+ 22
6 bolts. On the track on the way to the top of the 3 bolts. A second pitch to Altar Of Madness.
Bluff is a bolted line, starting in a short corner. Continue up the right-trending line, finish left.
Steven McInally, 12 Jan 2007.
10 Sex Panther ★★ 40m
3 Selective Hearing ★ 25m, 5.10d 21 6b, 5.10a 19, 18
An abandoned trad route! That’s all Cliff heard. Best done as one pitch, but there is an anchor
The bit about thin gear in the middle, the hard halfway if you don’t do trad. 1) 20m, 6 bolts:
7 쏹
finish and the fact that John Pellew had been Move left after the 2nd bolt, through bulge then
cleaning the route in preparation for an ascent up to anchor. 2) 20m, trad: Up and then right
all got lost in the clanking of cams, wires and toward the obvious finger crack. Either finish on
quickdraws being slung onto Cliff ’s harness. the ledge with anchor and rap off, or traverse
One for the trad enthusiast, small to medium right around the exposed arête (bolt) and climb
cams and wires with an overhanging hand jam easier ground to the very top of the bluff for 6
crux to finish. Cliff Ellery, 8 Sep 2007. lunch with a great view, then walk off the back.
Jono McDonald, Stephen King, 22 Apr 2006.
4 Immaculate Conception ★★ 25m, 7c 27
Bolted. The impressive looking roof system and About 5 metres right of the base of Sex Panther is a fixed
steep headwall. Start under the overhanging rope which will lead you around to the wall facing the
roof, move right then left, then straight up lake.
through another roof to finish over a lip. John
8
Pellew, 15 Dec 2007. 11 The Sufferer And The Witness 37m
5.10a, 5.8 18, 16
5 Way Of The Dragon 25m, 7b+ 26 Begin at the right side of the wall beside a tree,
13 bolts. Right of Immaculate Conception. Dan below an obvious thread. 1) 28m: Say hi to
Head, Dec 2015. Ultraman on your way up. Follow the weakness 1 2 3
between 2 bushes about halfway. Climb past a
6 Altar Of Madness ★★★ 30m, 7b 25 bolt (crux) to more good pro and good holds on 11
7 bolts. Nice technical face climbing. Clip your steep rock, scramble up a ledge to anchor. 2)
4
belayer in, follow the line of ring bolts up and 9m, 2 bolts: Up to that sweet spot on top of the 5
right to a hand traverse left, then up to the 6th Bluff. Jono McDonald, Jan 2009. 10
bolt (which has seen plenty of air time). Stay left
of the bolt through the crux. Stephen King, 30 Aug
2007.
UPPER BLUFF Kawakawa Bay 10JUGZILLA GULLY PREDATOR PINNACLE
4 routes, 6 pitches, pitch grades 14-21. 6 routes, 6 pitches, pitch grades 15-24.
Gully shaded all day. Summer shade progressively through the day.
쏹
Climb the hand rope to the left of Predator Pinnacle
and you will find yourself in front of a narrow, steep
bushy gully. To the right the ground is loose and drops
away. Be careful. The obvious spike of rock at the right end of the
Lower Bluff track, before the track drops away down
The routes on the Lower Bluff directly above may the hill towards Caveman Buttress.
have some loose rock. Stay aware if anyone is climbing
on those, and everyone wear a helmet. The routes on the Lower Bluff directly above may
have some loose rock. Stay alert if anyone is climbing
1 Jugzilla ★ 42m on those, and everyone wear a helmet.
쏹 쏹 6a, 6b 17, 19
The very juggy featured arête at the mouth of 1 Pointy Bit 6m, 5b 15
the gully. 1) 30m, 10 bolts: Climb the gully side 2 bolts. The bolted line up the back of the pin-
2 3 of the arête, exit right onto the slab (a long sling nacle, accessed via the hand rope. Nice view
will help with rope drag) and up to the bolted from the top and the easiest way to set up a top
anchor. Many parties rap off here. Alternately: rope on the harder routes. Stephen King, 23 Oct
2) 12m, 3 bolts: Finish up the headwall. Dan 2004.
Head, Gerard Tarr, Feb 2012.
2 Rumble In The Jungle 12m, 7a+ 24
2 The Devil Has A Window 5 bolts. Do the first couple of moves of Predator,
Into Paradise 35m clip the left bolt of the first pair, then continue
쏹 5.6, 5.10a 14, 18 up the blunt arête. Move slightly right at the 4th Tysin Langridge prepares for abuse
on Predator. Photo: Dan Head.
A spiritual journey high on the right wall of the bolt then straight up. Martyn Owen, 28 Dec 2017.
gully. 1) 20m: Up the hand crack (double #3
cams useful), traverse right out of the chimney 3 Predator ★ 12m, 6c 22
around the corner to the Jugzilla belay ledge, 5 bolts. Beyond popular. Steep and sustained up
build a trad anchor 3m left of the bolts. 2) 12m: the middle of the pinnacle. Move right after the
As for pitch 3 of Thunder God (Caveman But- first (RH) bolt. Stephen King, 6 Nov 2004.
tress). P1: Nik Martinelli, Gerard Tarr, Apr 2012.
4 Dirty Dancing ★★ 14m, 6b 19
3 Where The Wild Things Are 28m, 5.10a 18 6 bolts. “Nobody puts baby in a corner”. A pow-
The overhanging crack in the centre at the top of erful lift to start leads to some delicate and
1
the gully. Up a ramp, traverse the right wall to balancy holds with a fun end sequence. Dan
the top of a pedestal. Take a deep breath and Head, 2015.
head up the right trending overhanging crack.
Belay as for The Devil Has A Window Into Para- 5 Ducky Fuzz 15m, 6b 18
dise, or (better) don’t stop and make it a long 7 bolts. Does he? Around the arête and down a
28m linkup pitch at the grade. Owen Lee & Edwin little from Dirty Dancing. A bouldery start with a
Sheppard (linkup), 4 Jan 2014. sneaky jug to get started, then onto the slab.
4 Martyn Owen, 2018.
4 Aliens ★ 20m, 6b+ 21
9 bolts. Crumbs. The original single-pitch line 6 Fuzzy Duck 15m, 5c 15 Gerard Tarr on pitch 2 of Thunder
Predator God (Caveman Buttress), proving
Pinnacle up through the daunting overhangs. Traverse 10 bolts. Up the bottom right arête of the pin- full cans of baked beans make a
right to the first bolt and again after the last bolt nacle to meet the line to its left. Martyn Owen, cheap vegan alternative to
to the arête. Stephen King, 30 July 2005. 2018. camalots. Photo: Dan Head.
JUGZILLA GULLY PREDATOR PINNACLE Kawakawa Bay 11CAVEMAN BUTTRESS
17 routes, 31 pitches, pitch grades 14-23. 쏹
Summer shade progressively through the day.
7 1
The huge buttress facing the lake, with a deep cave 5 Redheads Not Warheads ★ 12m, 7a 23
splitting the middle. Continue down from the Lower 6 bolts. Follow the red streak in the middle of
Bluff, past Predator Pinnacle, to reach its leftmost the wall. Pockets down low lead to jugs up top. A 쏹
arête below Jugzilla Gully. fiesty little number that’ll have you begging for a
rest before you’re done. Dan Head, Emily Harding,
1 Aliens Resurrection ★★ 60m 25 Feb 2012.
6a+, 6b+, 6b 18, 21, 19
A great sustained route. It is possible to link the 6 Blonds Not Bombs ★ 15m, 7a 23
first 2 pitches. 1) 25m, 9 bolts: Follow the left 6 bolts. The easiest of the three pitches on the
1
line of bolts from the bottom of the arête, up wall but requires some hard and fast stamina.
towards the original Aliens. 2) 15m, 8 bolts: The Follow the white streak on the right then head
original pitch after its traverse (from Jugzilla left around the corner, up through overhanging
Gully), through the overhangs and right to the features to the arête then left after the 5th bolt. 쏹
arête. 3) 20m, 7 bolts: A bolt on the arête leads Alternately, for a bit more mileage, climb the 8
to the anchor of Jugzilla. Clip that and finish up fixed line left of Captain Caveman and follow the
the headwall. P1, P3: Dan Head, Jess Dobson, Mike the left line of bolts (Mr Mojo’s start) to gain the
Bakker, Jun 2012. start ledge. Dan Head, Emily Harding, 25 Feb 2012.
7
쏹
2 Foo Fighter! ★ 27m, 7c 27 7 Thunder God ★★ 52m 쏹
12 bolts. A photographer’s delight. Up the first 5.10d, 5.6, 5.10a 21, 14, 18
pitch of Aliens Resurrection until that splits off Start via the access rope left of Captain
left. Continue up the overhung arête on some Caveman. 1) 20m: Follow the crack right of Mr
wild holds to gain the slab, then onward to the Mojo’s first 3 bolts up to a ledge. From here a 5 6
anchor. Dan Head, 2013. crack cuts through steep rock above, between an 3
arête on the left and a pink wall on the right. 2) 쏹
3 Brunettes Not Fighter Jets ★★ 40m 20m: A three-star 14 up the easy hand crack,
6b+, 6c+ 21, 23 split by the Thunder God of the sky. First
1) 15m, 6 bolts: Follow the right hand line of climbed with a rack of baked bean cans, but you
bolts, climbing right of the bolts, to the colourful might prefer doubles of #2 & 3 cams. 3) 12m:
featured wall (Funky Sexy Lady wall). 2) 20m, 9 Move left of the Jugzilla anchors, follow a diag-
bolts: Follow the dark streak on the left, move onal seam for 5m, then up through featured
slightly right after the fourth bolt (crux) then rock. P1-2: Dan Head, Gerard Tarr, Feb 2012. P3: 1 2 쏹
back left after the fifth bolt. Dan Head, Emily Gerard Tarr, Isaac Tracey, Apr 2012.
Harding, Tom Adams, Pudding, 25 Feb 2012 (Dan’s
30th birthday). 8 Stairway To Heaven 30m, 5.10a 18
From the first anchor of Thunder God, go right
4 Sweet 16s Not M16s 16m, 5b 15 to the broken arête, then pull up onto the face
9 bolts. Such a sweet 16 it’s grade 15. Just above with good gear. Head straight up then left past a
the trail beyond the arête. Climb up and left past bolt. Another bolt and more gear leads through
a tree and ledge to the Funky Sexy Lady wall, a steeper section then onto the slab above. Tra-
3
where three beautiful 23s are waiting for you. verse left (bolt) to the arête for a final bolt, then
4 7
Dan Head, 2015. run it out up the arête or head up a little chute to
Thunder God’s anchor. Tim Exley, 2015.
CAVEMAN BUTTRESS Kawakawa Bay 12Caveman Buttress continued…
쏹
쏹
9 Mr Mojo (Risin’) ★ 55m 13 Captain Cavegirl ★ 15m, 6b+ 20
6c+, 6b 22, 19 6 bolts. Another great line. Ascends the featured
The beautiful pink wall right of Thunder God. wall between Cave Boy and Captain Caveman.
Take care abseiling from pitch 1. 1) 35m, bolted: Harder than the boys and men. Wendy Davis, Dan
Follow the left line of bolts to a ledge, right onto Head 2017.
the pink face. Awesome moves lead to an easy
slab and sweet belay ledge. 2) 20m, bolted: Fun, 14 Captain Caveman ★★★ 60m
technical climbing leads to the top of the but- 6a, 5c, 5c/6b 17, 16, 19 쏹
10 12 tress. Dan Head, 2014. One of the most popular routes at Kawakawa
Bay. Originally run-out trad, all 3 pitches are 14
10 King Of The Castle ★ 55m now fully bolted and well protected (P3 is still
7a, 6c 23, 22 optionally excellent on gear). 1) 30m, bolted:
Start 5m right of Mr Mojo below the aesthetic Start below the big cave, mostly straight up to an
쏹 쏹 쏹
쏹 pink wall. Interesting moves and funky features, anchor on the edge of the cave. 2) 12m, bolted: 쏹
a future classic? 1) 30m, 9 bolts: Up the slab Traverse the cave to the opposite corner. Climb
onto pocketed face, moving towards the arête up and exit out the person-sized hole at the top
above the 4th bolt, easing from here up the slab of the cave. 3) 18m, bolted: Up the obvious
to anchor. 2) 25m, 10 bolts: Climb the face on crack line to a ledge, then head out left to over-
13 big but spaced holds then tackle the slight bulge hanging fun town, population, you! Alternately,
with an interesting sequence. Exposed moves from the ledge, exit right as for Cave Boy (16). 14
reach the big ledge, then an even more exposed Dan Head, Rob Addis (ground-up trad), 2012.
top out. Sam Waetford, Gerard Tarr, 2015. 15 16
15 Groove Tube 8m, 5a 14 쏹
11 Thor’s Little Brother 36m 3 bolts. A fun little route to escape the queues or
5.9, 5.10b 17, 19 the heat! Left of Year Of The Monkey, quick-clip
1) 20m: Start up the fixed line left of Captain anchors. Dan Head, 2016.
11 12 Caveman then follow the obvious crack into the
cave. 2) 16m, 4 bolts: Extend the anchor to 16 Year Of The Monkey ★★ 20m
10 쏹 belay outside the cave. Up a slabby corner, 6c, 6b 21, 19
follow the obvious crack until you link up with Great potential for epic photos! Start in the cave,
the King Of The Castle. Owen Lee, Petrouchka above Captain Caveman’s 1st anchor. 1) 3 fixed
Steiner-Grierson, 2 May 2015. draws: A short but steep pitch leads to a rad little
9 11 belay spot. 2) 3 bolts: head right, then up to join
12 Cave Boy ★ 55m Pyschedelic Freeway’s 2nd pitch. Dan Head, 2016
5c, 5a, 5c 16, 14, 16
1) 7 bolts: Start up the fixed line, left of Captain 17 Psychedelic Freeway ★★ 42m
11 10 12 Caveman. Follow the right line of bolts, leading 5.9, 5.10a 17, 18
into the left side of the cave. 2) 7 bolts: The left Epic position with plenty of air beneath you! 1)
line of bolts, leading out through the obvious 22m, 7 bolts: Start 5m right and up from Cap-
line of weakness. 3) Bolted: Follow Captain tain Caveman. Climb blocky ground through an
Caveman’s 3rd pitch to the ledge where it goes overlap. 2) 20m, 4 bolts: Past a bolt to the heady
left into the overhang. Instead, climb straight up exposed finger- to hand-sized crack, then 3 bolts
17
through jug city, traversing left at the very end to on the arête. A third pitch to top out is possible,
the top anchor. Dan Head, 2017. past a bolt to join pitch 3 of Captain Caveman or
Cave Boy. Dan Head, Rob Addis, 2012 (ground-up 14
trad). Retro bolted and cleaned in 2015.
CAVEMAN BUTTRESS Kawakawa Bay 13DREAM WALL EAGLE WALL SESAME STREET WALL
2 routes, 2 pitches, pitch grades 19-21. 5 routes, 5 pitches, pitch grades 20-24. 5 routes, 5 pitches, pitch grades 8-24.
Summer shade until late morning. Summer shade until late morning. Fairly shady most of the day.
The newest wall at Kawakawa Bay. From Eagle Wall,
head north towards Welcome Wall, slowly climbing
the hill as you go until you come across a big fallen
mamaku (black tree fern) in front of two bolted lines.
1 Bay Dreams 18m, 6c 21
4 bolts. Up the right hand face to a double bolt
belay (shared with Sweet Dreams). Put your
game face on for a Whanganui-style bolt placed
at the end of the opening boulder problem, A small newly-developed cliff on the way to the Lower Below Predator Pinnacle and Caveman Buttress,
cruise some jugs then battle your way over the Bluff, tucked away in the bush, with a selection of down in the bush is a small wall with good access to
last bolt to the easy (still filthy) slab to finish. short, harder routes. the top and bottom.
Shaun Brown, 1 Jan 2019.
Take the first left branch after the Lower Bluff track 1 Black Climbs Matter 8m, 6c+ 22
2 Sweet Dreams 16m, 6b 19 heads uphill, which will lead you to the wall you can 3 bolts. A bouldery start, the grade is height
From the fallen block head up the arête (don’t glimpse through the bush. dependent – 21 if you’re tall, 22 if you’re an
fall clipping the 2nd bolt). Enjoy the no hands average height, 23 if you’re fun-sized. Still has
rest before the stiff crux. Michael Donovan, 1 Jan 1 Queen of Diamonds 8m, 6c+ 22 some business after the start. A potential high-
2019. 5 bolts. The left-most line. Climbs up and right. ball? Dan Head, 2017.
Best to rap in and place your draws if you’re not
6ft tall. Dan Head, Becky Hart, Dec 2017. 2 Pickpocket 8m, 6c+ 22
3 bolts. Another one that’s harder if you are not
2 Life in the Fast Lane 8m, 6b+ 20 tall, rap down to see where the holds are. Pre-
5 bolts. The warm up. A bouldery start leads to clip the 1st draw to save your butt/ankles.
nice and easy moves, curving left, then right. Michael Donovan , 2017
Dan Head (solo), Jan 2018.
3 Mariposa 8m, 5c 16
3 Queen of Hearts ★ 8m, 6c 21 3 bolts. Spanish for ‘butterfly’. Has two anchors,
5 bolts. The classic. Well protected, cool moves top hangers to practice multipitch and lower
lead to a thought provoking crux. Fun sized! Dan ones for top-roping laps. Ines Benlloch, Dan Head,
Head, Becky Hart, Dec 2017. 2017.
4 Desperado 8m, 7a 23 4 Toutouwai 8m, 6a 17
4 bolts. Another bouldery, technical start with 4 bolts. Te Reo name for The North Island
some space between the bolts. Balancy and pow- Robin. One of our friendliest native birds. Same
erful. Dan Head, Becky Hart, Dec 2017. anchors as for Mariposa. Ines Benlloch, Dan Head,
2017.
5 Tequila Sunrise 8m, 7a 23
4 bolts. A good V3 highball once you know the 5 Sesame Street 8m, 3a 8
moves. Recommend rapping in to pre-place the Top rope only. Take a brush to clean off the
draws. Dan Head, Martyn Owen, Jan 2018. fallen kowhai leaves that accumulate regularly.
Dan Head (solo), 2016.
6 Smash And Grab 8m, 7a 23
3 bolts. Jump for the jug-like thing if you are
Above: Becky Hart on Captain Caveman’s cave short or find the crimps if you are tall. Smash it Dan Head plugs in a cam on Cicada Death
pitch (Caveman Buttress). Photo: Dan Head. to the top. Shaun Brown, Dec 2018. March (Elephant Buttress). Photo: Gerard Tarr.
DREAM WALL EAGLE WALL SESAME STREET WALL Kawakawa Bay 14ELEPHANT BUTTRESS
14 routes, 15 pitches, pitch grades 10-23.
Summer shade until late morning.
쏹 쏹
쏹
Follow the track around right 20-30m from Caveman 5 The Nose 30m, 5b 15
Buttress as it heads downhill toward the lake. The next 9 bolts. The easy slab/arête between Elephant
significant outcrop is Elephant Buttress, with Taniwha Hunting and Flight Of The Pachyderm. Much
Crackdown on the very left. easier and shorter than its Californian cousin.
Gerard Tarr, Dec 2014.
1 Taniwha Crackdown ★ 30m, 5.9 17 쏹
A few metres left of the Elephant Hunting crack is 6 Trunk Line 30m, 5.8 16
a fun line that follows a random crack system. Beware the huge detached flake at the top. The 11
9
Start up the left leaning slab just off the ground big corner right of Elephant Hunting. Take plenty
for a while, then veer straight up through the of slings for the stumps and a full range of cams, 12
cracks to join Elephant Hunting at the manuka hexes and wires. Finish on the ledge above the 쏹
10
tree belay. Named in honour of Nathan sur- big tree. David Garrity, Bryce Martin, 14 May 2016.
viving the cave collapse. Gerard Tarr, Nathan Kelly, 13
Dec 2012. 7 Flight Of The Pachyderm ★ 40m, 7a 23
9 bolts. An impressive line up a slab then 쏹
2 Elephant Hunting ★★ 35m through two overhangs right of the first pitch of
5.10b, 5.7/5.5 19, 13/15 Elephant Hunting. A tough onsight. Lower off 쏹 쏹
An overwrought expedition into the darkest the 30m anchor above the second overhang, or
depths of the unknown. Pitch 1 and the left belay on a shady ledge at the top and scramble
hand grade 13 finish can be linked. Descend by off at the back to the left. Long draws useful. 쏹
the fixed rope down the gully at the back of the Gerard Tarr, Jan 2013.
climb or in two abseils via the manuka tree
belay. 1) 25m: Aesthetic slab with a left slanting 8 Claim Jumper 28m, 5.8 16 쏹
seam into a flaring chimney corner, exit this The corner and crack system right of Flight Of
(crux) then climb up and right to belay at the The Pachyderm. Take a full range of cams, hexes
manuka tree. Spaced but adequate protection. and wires. Traverse a couple of metres left to
2) 10m: Traverse right to a ledge then follow a reach the trad belay or scramble off up. Bryce
crack on the left up to a flax bush (13) or finish Martin, David Garrity, May 2016.
right up a right facing corner crack (15). Gerard
Tarr and a very patient Jenny Byrne, Feb 2012. 9 Irrelephant 8m, 5.7 15 3
The flaring chimney up and left of the top of Ele- 4
3 Nogasang 30m, 5.9 17 phant Hunting. Gerard Tarr (solo), April 2012.
Climb the slab between Elephant Hunting & The
Nose. You may want to rap down and do some 10 Hooptedoodle Slab 7m, 5.2 10
light gardening before climbing – impeccably The very dirty low angle slab is gained by a
cleaned, but a low traffic area so far. Cams in mantle off the ledge, some protection at the top.
pockets, 6 bolts. Gerard Tarr, Dec 2014. Gerard Tarr, Nikolas Martinelli, Mar 2012.
1
4 Pet Shop Shark Attack 1981 30m, 5.9 17 The following routes are all on the upper tier of Elephant
Right of Nogasang and slightly bolder, sharing its Buttress, best reached by climbing Irrelephant or
first 2 bolts, then goes right up the centre past Hooptedoodle Slab (it is possible to scramble up the
2 5 6 7 8
another. Worth it just for the name! 3 bolts. bushy gully left of Taniwha Crackdown to reach the
Gerard Tarr, Dec 2014. bottom of these, or to carefully scramble off).
ELEPHANT BUTTRESS Kawakawa Bay 15Elephant Buttress continued…
THE TOMBSTONE
9 routes, 11 pitches, pitch grades 15-24. 쏹
Summer shade until late morning.
쏹
11 Elephant’s Revenge ★ 15m, 5.9 17 8
Ten meters right on top of Irrelephant is a lay-
back off width splitter to left facing corner on 쏹
excellent clean rock. Take #2-5 cams. Gerard Tarr,
Nik Martinelli, Mar 2012.
쏹 7
Beyond Elephant Buttress and around a big corner is 6
12 Cicada Death March ★★ 22m, 5.11a/b 22 an area dominated by a huge rock resembling a tomb-
Superb! 5m right of Elephant’s Revenge is a stone, not visible from camp.
snaking crack through three slightly steep bulges
with gear-at-waist cruxes. Gerard Tarr, Mia Kvale Continue right along the cliff from Elephant Buttress 쏹 쏹
Lovmo Mar 2012. for a few minutes on a vague trail. Alternately, from
the Point trail (after the rock ravine and small beach),
13 Lions, Tigers And Bears 17m, 5.10d 21 once you leave the shoreline the track winds through
쏹
Further right of Cicada Death March. Traverse in blocky ground until you come to a flat area with a rock 쏹
from the right to a manuka tree at one third cairn that leads up the hill. Follow this to a blank wall.
height, then up a funky steep hand crack Continue up and left for another few minutes until
corner/flake. Dan Head, Ruth Sayger, Mar 2012. you come to a massive body crack – this is Fibula.
14 Open Project 1 The Prow ★ 32m, 6b 19
AKA The Golden Sling Project. On the buttress 12 bolts. The big prow left of Fibula. A bouldery 5
about 20m further right and down is a 2-pitch start gives access to ledges before the arête is 3 4
line which may have gold slings on it. Nick gained and climbed on the left hand side to the
Gordon. top. Andrew Scott, Rob Addis , Jan 2013.
1 2
2 Closed Project
The face right of The Prow. Rob Addis.
3 Fibula 18m, 5.7 15 6 Rafiki ★ 20m, 5.10a 18 the arête is the original finish up a corner. P1, 2b:
쏹 쏹
Adventure caving experience slightly similar to Start as for The Tombstone. After gaining the Dan Head (solo) Jan 2011. P2a: Dan Head, Ruth
쏹 Tibia at Whanganui Bay but much shorter. small ledge approximately 7m up, continue up Sayger, Mar 2012.
Climb the yawning body crack/chimney split- the left hand finger cracks following the path of
ting the face. Rob Addis, Dan Head, Feb 2011. least resistence, then head to the right, up to the 8 We We Nugu Mi Mi Apana ★ 15m, 5.10c 20
same belay. A wandering, fun, adventurous line. “You’re a baboon, and I am not”. The parallel
4 Closed Project Get your monkey on and use the tree near the hand crack and arête, right of pitch 2a of The
The line of bolts right of Fibula. top. Dan Head, Myke Bakker, Jun 2012. Tombstone. Unique climbing, finishing 5m
higher on Pride rock. Take large cams. Dan Head,
쏹 5 Snake Charmer 30m 7 The Tombstone ★★ 35m Ruth Sayger, Mar 2012.
5.9, 5.10b 17, 19 5.10d, 5.9/5.8 21, 16/17
11 10m right of Fibula you should see a clean sec- Right of the first pitch of Snake Charmer. There About 40m to the right of The Tombstone is a lone arête
tion of rock with a horizontal tree to belay off are three alternative second pitches (option 3 is with a single bolted route:
12 5m up. 1) 15m: Follow wandering crack systems We We Nugu Mi Mi Apana). 1) 25m: Follow the
up and right, traverse the slab up to a slab belay. series of hand cracks up to a small ledge and 9 Arachnophobia 7a+ 24
10
2) 15m: From the belay, traverse left onto the right into a traversing finger crack. Take a long 7 bolts. Bouldery through the steep section, then
13
buttress, then climb the crack onto the head sling and doubles of #1–3 cams. Trad belay on easier from the dihedral. A 2nd pitch could be
wall. Tricky moves for the grade guard the top. the arête, 10m below the next ledge. Then either added. Iron Grizzle, 2014.
P1: Dan Head, Ruth Sayger, Myke Bakker, Jun 2012. 2a) 10m, 17: The thin finger crack, two meters
P2: Stephen Burrows, Cliff Ellery, Nov 2006. right of the arête, or 2b) 10m, 16: 5m right of
ELEPHANT BUTTRESS THE TOMBSTONE Kawakawa Bay 16LITTLE RED THE POINT
RIDING HOOD WALL 64 routes, 95 pitches, pitch grades 12-25.
4 routes, 4 pitches, pitch grades 19-22.
Summer shade until around noon. 쏹
Summer shade until around noon.
쏹
A small overhanging wall between the Tombstone and The Point is a spectacular place to climb, with many
The Point. Keep traversing right from the Tombstone. long exposed routes starting on narrow ledges
Alternately, from The Point trail past the cairn perched above the lake. On a clear day, the
marking the Tombstone track, continue uphill and Whanganui Bay cliffs and Mounts Tongariro, Ngau-
then down a bit until you come across a large cairn. ruhoe and Ruapehu are visible. In summer, trout can 2
Next to the cairn is an uphill path leading to a small be spotted in the lake below and you may find yourself
steep cliff with a large roof. climbing for an audience of boaties or kayakers.
쏹
The roof which is split by a crack is Naturally Well The walk to the start of The Point from camp takes
Hung. The start of the Point (Mellow Yellow, Sunday about 15 minutes. Follow the track at the east end of
School etc) is about 2-3 minutes further from here. the lakefront past the old long drop toilet, staying
down close to the shore when the track branches off 2
1 Bouldering On Trad 6m, 5.10b 19 up for the Lower Bluff. Continue through a rock
Follow the vertical seam with RPs/micro-wires. ravine and onto a small beach with a sandy cliff on the
Poorly protected with a potentially nasty drop left (don’t hang around here, the cliff has collapsed in
onto the boulder behind you. Wear a helmet. the recent past).
There is potential to extend this line through
cool looking terrain. Matt Natti, Nov 2006. After leaving the beach, the track winds up through
blocky ground then past cairns until you begin to walk 3 4
2 Ring Bolt Roof ★ 8m, 6c 22 up a hill and reach an access rope. At the top of this
3 bolts. Steep. Steven McInally, Nov 2006. first access rope is a bolted rock buttress in the bush,
with Sunday School the bolted line on the front.
3 Naturally Well Hung ★ 8m, 5.10d 21
The crack which splits the roof. Climb past the 1 King Country Boys 35m, 5.7 15 3 Sunday School 12m, 6b+ 20
roof for about 5m then traverse far left to the Dirty, feel free to clean it up or call up Gee Rad 4 bolts. Weave your way up the buttress, fol-
anchors of Ring Bolt Roof. Gerard Tarr, Dan Head, and ask him to come back (and show us where it lowing the ring bolts to a crux after the 3rd bolt,
Nathan Kelly, Feb 2012. is). Gerard Tarr (ground-up trad), 2012. to the Mellow Yellow anchors. Stay left between
3rd and 4th bolt. A tough onsight! Dan Head, Rob
4 I’ve Had Better 20m, 5.10b 19 2 Mellow Yellow ★★ 35m Addis, Feb 2011.
The smaller roof crack to the right of Naturally 5b, 5b, 5a 15, 15, 14
Well Hung. Dan Head, Nathan Kelly, Feb 2012. A good first multi-pitch. Start on the left wall of 4 Yellow Submarine ★ 12m, 5.5 13
the buttress. P2-3 may be easily combined if Climb the easy jam crack on the right of Sunday
desired. 1) 8m, 3 bolts: A short right tending School, continue past a small tree until standing
pitch to gain the ledge. 2) 12m, 3 bolts: Ascend on a large block. Exit up the left crack to the first
the slab, traversing right after the third bolt. 3) Mellow Yellow anchor. Rob Addis, Dan Head,
Ruth Sayger on Elephant’s
15m, 4 bolts: Climb straight up the slab past a Savannah Joseph, Feb 2011.
Revenge (Elephant Buttress). ledge to reach the top. Stephen King, Steven
Photo: Gerard Tarr. McInally, Apr 2006.
LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD WALL Kawakawa Bay 17The Point continued…
5 The Sweet And The Savage ★★ 30m powerful crux sequence with perfect clean falls.
5.10b, 5.8 19, 16 After this, climb left into Survival Of The Fittest 쏹
The wide corner crack with the large arching for a few metres up to the last bolt, then tackle 쏹
roof section, 10m right of Sunday School. 1) the overhanging arête direct to the large ledge.
20m: Bring doubles of medium cams. Follow Dan Head, May 2011.
the crack up and right, being careful not to use
your big gear too early, then mantle onto the 12 Shoot Your Gun ★ 50m, 5.8 16
ledge for a trad belay. 2) 10m: Climb the The obvious long corner 8m left of High Hopes. 11
obvious corner up to a cosy ledge. Combining Climb the corner, move left at top (watch the 쏹 9
both pitches as one only results in hideous rope rope drag). Take doubles of mid-size cams. Matt
drag. Stephen King, Matt Thom, Nov 2005. Thom, Jess Dobson, 2010.
6 Fistula 28m, 5.10b 19 The next two routes are below the main track. Either
The direct start to The Sweet And The Savage. abseil down or make your way back along the main track
Straight up to the ledge (optional belay), con- and sidle around and down to the lake. 10
tinue as for P2 of The Sweet And The Savage.
Daniel Joll, Ruben Hull, 27 Aug 2006. 13 Le Gopena 12m, 5.4 12
Abseil off the tree below All Aussie Adventures.
7 All Aussie Adventures 35m The top move may feel staunch for solid grade
5.7, 5.7 15, 15 11 climbers. Dan Head (solo), May 2011.
The crack left of the bolted arête. 1) 27m, 5
bolts: Start up the crack moving left onto the 14 La Petite Sirenes (& Cavemen) 18m, 5.5 14
쏹
arête after 10m. Climb the arête past the bolts 2 bolts. Starts just above the lake. Traverse right 쏹
and a large wire placement then finish up the top on big holds to the crack and up to the track fin-
crack of The Sweet And The Savage. 2) 8m, 3 ishing below Temple Of The Stone Pilots. Christina 8 9
bolts: A short pitch gets you a little higher. Berbece, Daniela Bruetting and Dan Head, Mar 2011.
Stephen King, Ben Scrimgeour, Mar 2006.
8 Raw Umber 15m, 5b 15
5 bolts. Climb the bolted arête then move left to
the anchor. Don’t be fooled into accidentally
climbing Survival Of The Fittest. Heather Brockway,
쏹
Stephen King, Mar 2006
9 Survival Of The Fittest ★ 40m, 6b 19
14 bolts. As for Raw Umber then head right up
the arête. John Pellew, Stephen King, Sep 2007.
5 6 7
10 Counter Intuitive ★ 20m, 6b+ 20
13
7 bolts. Gain the ledge halfway up Survival Of
The Fittest then head right up the arête. John 쏹
Pellew, Jess Dobson, Sep 2007.
11 12
Abseil to
11 Temple Of The Stone Pilots ★★ 25m, 7b 25
13 & 14
9 bolts. Climb the easy start left of Shoot Your 14
Gun then after 15m attack an overhanging face.
Make use of a mini rest before launching into a
THE POINT Kawakawa Bay 18The Point continued…
쏹
15 Ezy Ryder ★ 45m 21 Year Of The Snake 20m, 5.9 17 쏹 쏹 쏹
6b+, 6b+ 20, 20 Start as for Pimps Don’t Cry and escape to the 쏹
16
1) 22m, 8 bolts: Follow the grey ring bolts to the anchors of Make My Blue Rat Dance. Will prob-
belay ledge in the middle of the face. 2) 26m, 8 ably be retro bolted in the next few years. Dan
bolts: Follow the first four ring bolts then tra- Head, Dylan Ball, Aprl 2011.
verse right, through the roof, to join the top of
Highway Child. Dan Head, 2011. 22 Black Yoda ★★ 48m
6c+, 6c+ 22, 22
16 The Will To Live ★ 29m, 6a 17 “Excellent, this is” – Yodan. 1) 25m, bolted: Start 15 23
10 bolts. Starts at the top of the first pitch of Ezy as for Make My Blue Rat Dance, then continue
Rider. From the mid-way belay, climb past the straight up the steep face direct to the High 17 18 19 25
first 3 ring bolts then head up and left onto the Hopes midway anchor. 2) 23m, bolted: From the
hangers. Alpine style rock climbing. Dan Head anchor, head up and right through some wild 쏹
(solo), Mar 2011. terrain with increasingly harder moves until you
gain the slab. Dan Head, Mar 2011.
17 Highway Child ★★ 47m, 6c 21
22
15 bolts. Highly recommended. Climb the 23 Jedi Master ★★★ 48m, 7a 23 쏹
direct ring bolts between Ezy Rider and High 14 bolts. Link Pimps Don’t Cry into P2 of Black
Hopes. Excellent as one long pitch, borderline Yoda for a classic European enduro pumpfest!
21/22. Dan Head, Dec 2011. Take some hand sized cams if you don’t like run-
outs. Bolts will be added in the near future, take
18 Soul Train ★★ 45m, 6a+ 18 2 extra draws in case they’re there! Dan Head,
19 20 22
11 bolts. Start up High Hopes. At the 3rd ring Mar 2011.
bolt move left and climb the line of bolts with
쏹
hangers, straight up through the tricky crack 24 Make My Blue Rat Dance ★ 18m, 6a+ 18 쏹
(crux). The top moves are run-out on easier 7 bolts. Named after a high-diving rat with big 21
ground. Dan Head, Dec 2010. gourds. Start by the tree before the first exposed
hand line traverse. Wandering and bold. Head
19 High Hopes ★★★ 45m right at the end. Solid 18 most of the way. Dan
5c, 5c 16, 16 Head, Kerl van den Heuval. Mar 2011.
Awesome as one long pitch. Super classic. 1)
23m, 8 bolts: Head up and right, carefully to the 25 Resolution ★★★ 55m
1st bolt. A short bouldery VM crux leads right to 5.10a, 5.11c/d 18, 23
the arête and easier climbing after the 3rd bolt, Originally done ground-up, in one pitch.
then step right to the belay ledge. 2) 22m, 7 Requires a cool head, a helmet and a photogra-
bolts: Climb left back to the arête, then up the pher. 1) 22m: Start in the shallow corner crack
face trending right. Stephen King. Dec 2005. leading to an epic featured face (head left), then
wander right into another corner to finish at the
15 17
20 Pimps Don’t Cry ★ 25m, 6c+ 22 Make My Blue Rat Dance anchor. 2) 33m: The
Start just to the right of High Hopes. Traverse crux section is technical face climbing without 24
right past 2 bolts to an arching crack. Follow the protection for 5m. Take a double set of finger
crack up then head out left toward the arête, sized cams for before and after the crux (may get
through slightly overhanging terrain, towards a bolt or two sometime to save people's ankles). 25
another bolt and a final gear placement before Abseil to the anchor of Have A Cigar if you don’t
the High Hopes anchor. To be retro-bolted. Dan have double ropes. Dan Head, Rob Addis, Jan 2011.
Head, Andrew Scott, Apr 2011.
THE POINT Kawakawa Bay 19You can also read
