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Looking in the mirror. A review of circularity in the clothing and textiles industry in Aotearoa. BY BERNADETTE CASEY AND BRIAN JOHNSTON The Formary, November 2020 / © All rights reserved – contains confidential information that is the sole property of The Formary
Contents
Executive Summary 3 Textile Flows in Aotearoa 27
The Case For Collaborative Change 6 Textile Industry Perspectives 35
Introduction 9 Conclusion: A Vision Of A Future State 47
Methodology 10 Acknowledgements 51
Global Context 12 Bibliography 53
Developing Technological Solutions 19 Appendices 56
Increasing Regulation 20 Appendix 1: Biographies 56
Rising Expectations 22 Appendix 2: Usedfully –
Textile Reuse Programme 57
NZ Context 23
What We Found 26
2
Executive Summary
When we started the research for this products. The industry’s linear production
report in April 2020 Aotearoa was in system is delivering more and more textile
Stage 4 lockdown in response to the global to market, while at the same time this textile
COVID-19 pandemic. The clothing industry is increasingly difficult to reuse, repair,
was in free fall, with long established supply- repurpose and recycle. Alternative routes for
chains ground to a stand-still. Brands unwanted textiles such as the rag trade, and
were left scrambling to secure alternative shipping to less affluent nations for resale
production, and priorities were upended are becoming less viable. The volume of
in response to the closure of retail stores. unsuitable textiles being donated to charities
For many the pandemic has also triggered is increasing rapidly, increasing sorting and
reflection on the non-financial impacts of the disposal costs, and hampering their ability to
industry’s underlying business model and generate income for their causes. In addition,
future direction. the rising trend for countries to restrict
imports of textile waste effectively puts the
In recent years the clothing industry, and
responsibility back on the source country.
to a lesser extent the wider textile industry
Already in Aotearoa the majority of textile
has come under considerable public
waste ends up in landfill - an estimated
criticism for conspicuous overproduction
220,000 tonnes every year.
and environmentally wasteful practices,
such as disposal of off-spec and unwanted
3
There is no doubt the world is on the the potential roles of each organisation,
threshold of a rapid and far reaching shift business, or person in the value chain. To-
across all of the foundational sectors of the date in Aotearoa there has been a lack of
economy: materials, information, energy, local information to develop an overview
food and transport. What is unfolding now of textile material flows - not only clothing,
is not incremental but era-scale change. but also linen, home textiles, and carpets. In
This includes a shift away from very large addition, the various efforts of stakeholders
scale centralised industrial production in the textile space to adopt more circular
systems which the textile industry has been and resource-efficient solutions, including
dependent on for several decades, towards product stewardship have so far been
distributed models and supply-chains. This fragmented. A strong and broad foundation
migration will create more autonomous is needed, in order for the industry to start
production regions, which combined with driving the necessary change to a circular
technology advances such as fibre-to-fibre, textiles system.
transparency platforms and sorting systems,
Clothing and textile waste in Aotearoa has,
and supported by organising systems such as
until recently, been viewed as fairly inert
laws and regulation, will facilitate the arrival
and unimportant. While much attention
of emergent circular systems.
and funding has been focused on the issue
If we are to transition to a new economic of plastic pollution, this has not included
model, we must understand the resources synthetic clothing - an important contributor.
in the system which are available to us - Nor does it address clothing in its own
both in terms of characteristics like volume right as a major contributor to waste and
and material type, but also in terms of climate impacts. Although there are signs of
4
consumer sentiment shifting away from ‘fast’ beyond the point of sale, as well as greater
use of textiles, the industry has so far failed collaboration between brands and between
to gain acknowledgement and support from sectors, between government, industry and
the government to implement change. community. As our reaction to the COVID-19
pandemic has shown, we have the potential
As a geographically remote small island
to pivot and to change our ways of working.
nation of approximately five million people,
The challenge now for the wider textile
our clothing and textile industry is very
industry is to turn towards a more circular,
small on a global scale, made up of even
resource-efficient way of making, using, and
smaller sub-sectors, from corporate fashion
reusing textiles in Aotearoa.
and commercial retailers, commercial and
domestic textile and flooring suppliers, We are grateful to the Ministry for the
garment manufacturers, designer and Environment’s Te Pūtea Whakamauru Para
bespoke brands and wholesalers. What – Waste Minimisation Fund and the Textile
we have discovered through this research Reuse Programme Foundation Partners,
is an industry highly aware of two of the Alsco NZ, Barkers Clothing, Deane Apparel
critical transitions the world needs to make – and Wellington City Council for their support.
transitioning to a low emissions living and the To everyone who has supported Usedfully
transitioning to a low waste society. We also - Textile Reuse Programme on our journey,
found an industry with a strong appetite for especially everyone who contributed to this
improved models that serve our communities report, thank you for sharing your insights,
and our environment better. To achieve this your knowledge and your time.
locally will require those who bring products
to market to take more responsibility
5
The Case For Over the past decade, the fashion industry
has demonstrated tremendous growth –
Collaborative a steady 4-5% economic increase each year
(though expected to dip in 2020 because
Change of COVID-19). By 2030, the industry is
expected to reach $3.3 trillion in value,
Jason Kibbey – CEO Higg Index with 102 million tonnes of merchandise
manufactured globally.1 As an ever more
inclusive and diverse industry, apparel
remains unsurpassed as the most personal
and expressive consumer goods industry
on the globe.
6
Yet, this growth has taken an environmental practices are beyond the scope of a single
and social toll. 80% of all apparel company, individual brand, or country.
merchandise ends up in landfills – a shocking
To tackle these systems-level issues at
figure, driven by accelerating consumption
the required scale, solutions must be
and the era of fast fashion. Because
collaborative – and I believe we’re beginning
of its energy intensive manufacturing
to see some promising developments within
processes, fashion contributes 10% of global
the apparel industry. In my own two decade
greenhouse gas emissions, and it can require
career in fashion, I’ve watched firsthand
more than 2,500 litres of water to produce a
as sustainability has moved from a niche
single cotton t-shirt.2 Taken together, rapid
concern to an overriding imperative. After
industry growth tethered to devastating
launching the upstart organic apparel brand
environmental impact have put fashion on a
Pact, I became the first employee of the
literally unsustainable path.
Sustainable Apparel Coalition, which has
The world is waking up to this fact – and grown to be the largest industry cooperation
companies, brands, stakeholders, and of its kind. In parallel, collaborative initiatives
shoppers are asking: how can we change this like Fashion for Good, The Fashion Pact,
broken system? Can we transform the idea of the Clean Clothes Campaign, and Global
waste in fashion? How do we improve worker Fashion Agenda have made great progress
livelihood? What might fashion look like in creating industry forums for sustainability,
in a 1.5º world? But trying to answer these sparking innovation in materials and
questions alone can lead a single actor to processes, and scaling promising pilots to
feel a sense of despair. Restructuring global more parts of the industry. Now as CEO
supply chains and overhauling industrial of Higg, I’m helping to build software
7
tools that enable end-to-end sustainability Zealand to showcase its unique strengths: a
measurement, so that brands, retailers, and government committed to positive change,
manufacturers can make smart decisions an engaged citizenry, and an industry that’s
based on dynamic value chain data. These willing to roll up its sleeves and work together
are just some of the many emergent to create meaningful impact.
initiatives within fashion that are built upon
Without a doubt, our year has been a
collaboration and shared data in order to
tumultuous one in every category: politics,
drive progress on key issues.
health, environment, commerce. The whole
However, while collaboration within world is looking for practical examples
the industry is incredibly impactful, of collaboration on behalf of the greater
transformative change requires an even good, that can deliver meaningful benefits
deeper level of collaboration: between the now while also providing a positive path for
industry, its stakeholders, and government the longer term. It’s incumbent on all of us
as well. That’s why I’m so impressed with working in apparel, textiles and sustainability
the trends I’m seeing in New Zealand. to initiate and support these types of deep
New Zealand has long had a history of public/private sector collaborations.
environmental leadership at a government
level and strong collaboration amongst
its stakeholders. The recently announced
Usedfully® Textile Product Stewardship
Project for clothing and textiles is the latest
example. This sort of multi-stakeholder
programme is an opportunity for New
8
Introduction
This report forms the first part of the management, and ensuring the maximum – Sustainability Specialist at The Formary
‘Textile Product Stewardship Project’ possible volumes of textiles are diverted from (Coordinator), Juhi Shareef – Sustainability
(TPSP), delivered by The Formary under landfill. The concept of ’Product Stewardship’ Lead at Vector, James Griffin – General
the Textile Reuse Programme (TRP) which is that the responsibility and cost of product Manager Projects & Advisory at the
was established in 2016 as a cross industry waste, which currently sits with local Sustainable Business Network, Lauren
collaboration aligning industry players in authorities and ratepayers, is transferred Degenstein – Researcher from Alberta
a joint vision and commitment to a circular to producers and consumers in a user pays University, Canada.
economy for clothing and textiles in Aotearoa model. Adoption of a voluntary scheme can
This ‘Summary Report’ is a condensed
driving large-scale cross-value chain projects help industry to meet market expectation
version of ‘LOOKING IN THE MIRROR –
to develop and implement new systems, and to front-foot potential regulation and
A review of circularity in the clothing and
business models and technology at scale to policy changes.
textile industry in Aotearoa. Full Report’,
radically reduce the environmental impacts
The TPSP commenced in April 2020 and available at www.usedfully.com
of the current linear system and transition the
will run until early 2022, and is designed
market to a low carbon circular economy.
to inform a future Product Stewardship
The ultimate goal of the TPSP is to establish a Scheme. It is guided by an Advisory Board
national accredited voluntary textile product which reviews project planning and progress
stewardship scheme for textiles in Aotearoa, providing expert input into the TPSP. The
financing the costs of end-of-life textile Advisory Board comprises Brian Johnston
9
Methodology
The starting point for this research was the on-one interviews. A total of 36 interviews
relative lack of granular data on existing were completed between August and
textile flows, and existing stakeholder October 2020.
actions and intentions relating to circularity.
Priority stakeholder interviews generated
To further uncover the textile and clothing
rich but fragmented primary data and
landscape the researchers took a mixed
valuable real-world insights. These data
method approach generating both
sets were then combined with secondary
quantitative and qualitative data. The
data sourced through a number of
research methodology primarily involved
organisations and individuals - Statistics NZ,
the analysis of qualitative data collected
WasteMinz, Local Council Data, university
through in-depth structured stakeholder
and independent research were collected
interviews. To ensure a holistic view, industry
through direct approach to research owners
sectors were identified from across the textile
and internet research, data was then
value chain. Textile product categories were
compiled for analysis. Interview responses
identified as Clothing (both personal and
from all the participants were collated to
commercial), Textiles (home and commercial)
allow for comparison and analysis.
and Textile Flooring/Carpets. Over 70 priority
stakeholders were identified as targets for
interviewing and were approached for one-
10The interviews were structured to explore key aspects
of textile manufacture, use, and end-of-life in order
to characterise each stakeholder’s understanding of
textile flows and circularity, including:
– Whether textiles were included in the broader sustainability strategy
– Level of current (and planned) activity
– Drivers for getting involved, including key stakeholders
– Barriers to getting involved
– Understanding of textile volumes handled (and end-of-life destinations)
11Global Context
Textiles are so ubiquitous their presence price and bringing products faster to market.
is profound, covering and protecting us The consequences of this approach are
from within moments of birth until we are numerous, including a decline in durability of
laid to rest. They adorn homes and offices, product, consumers wearing each item less,
provide protection from the elements and rapidly increasing volumes of textiles
and from disease. Unlike other consumer being disposed of. As Figure 1 from the Ellen
products, peoples’ relationship with clothing Macarthur Foundation shows, the clothing
(and therefore textiles) is deeply complex; industry has doubled its output in just 15
consumption is intrinsically bound to the years (faster than global GDP growth) to over
concept of self and to social identity.3 The 100 billions units per year, while clothing
textile industry is present in every country utilisation is on the decline.4
on Earth, materials and products criss-cross
the globe prior to reaching their intended
markets. But while the value chain is global
it has local consequences. The industry is
based on a linear production model geared
for growth transforming in recent years with
the adoption of the ‘fast fashion’ model;
offering consumers more choice for a lower
12FIGURE 1: Growth of Clothing Sales and
GROWTH OF CLOTHING SALES AND DECLINE IN CLOTHING UTILISATION SINCE 2000 Decline in Clothing Utilisation Since 2000
INDEX 100 IN 2000 NUMBER OF TIMES AN ITEM IS WORN1
‘A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning
WORLD GDP CLOTHING UTILISATION Fashion’s Future’, Ellen Macarthur
>100bn Foundation (2017)
CLOTHING SALES units
(2015)
200
2x
190
180
170
160
150
140
~50bn
130
units
120 (2000)
110
100
2000 2005 2010 2015
1 Average number of times a garment is worn before it ceases to be used
Source: Euromonitor International Apparel & Footwear 2016 Edition (volume sales trends 2005–2015); World Bank, World development
indicators – GD (2017)
13The model depends on taking more The textile industry is not alone in its
and more resources, processing them into adoption of a linear model cumulatively this
products, selling them to consumers and is leading to significant imbalances between
then encouraging them to buy more. The resources consumed, and the Earth’s
unintended environmental and social ability to renew resources. The organisation
consequences of this model have become ‘Earth Overshoot’ measures the short-fall
too big to ignore. of resources in comparison to population,
calculating that the world overshot its annual
Figure 2 illustrates the current global textile
ecological resources this year on August
value chain model. A linear system, with
22nd, in eight months instead of twelve.
some reuse, repair and repurposing occuring,
Drawing more from nature than the world
but the vast majority of textiles ending up
can replace in the whole year, leaving the
in landfill or incineration (depending on the
world in a resource deficit.
destination country). Research suggests that
the global clothing industry is currently 97%
linear i.e. 97% of materials used as input are
virgin, and only 12% of clothing at end of life
is recycled in any form. Only 1% of clothing is
recycled back into clothing.5
14FIGURE 2: (Current) Linear Textiles Model
© Usedfully®
Repair
Export
Reuse Repurpose
Overseas
Raw Materials Textile Garment & Product Retailers & Collectors &
Users
Manufacturers Manufacturers Resellers Aggregators
Landfill
15All types of textile fibre are resource intensive growth path, by 2050, it could be consuming
and have an embedded environmental cost more than 26% of the carbon budget
from the land, water, energy and chemicals associated with the 2°C pathway to limit
used. The industry is starting to bump up global warming.9
against the limits to growth. Natural materials
Landfilling textiles at their end of use creates
such as cotton or wool require a lot of
a further issue, the release of greenhouse
land and water for cultivation, the fashion
gases as they decompose. While the rate of
industry is projected to use 35% more land
emissions varies by geography (and level of
for fibre production by 2030 – an extra 115
research), there is alignment on the fact that
million hectares (or 4.3 times the landmass
after food waste, textiles are a hotspot for
of Aotearoa) that could be protected, left
emissions in landfill. This research estimates
for biodiversity, to preserve forest to store
that annually 220,800,000 kgs of textiles
carbon, or used to grow crops for food to
are landfilled in Aotearoa each year. The
help to feed an expanding population.7
Ministry for the Environment calculates
Synthetic fabrics are generally derived from landfilled textile emissions at 1.80 CO2e per
non-renewable fossil-fuels, research has kg.10 Equating to 397,440,000 kgs CO2e per
found that textile fibres make about 35% of annum. Vast amounts of money are spent
marine plastic pollution.8 Global warming, landfilling these valuable commodities, while
and the carbon emissions driving this, are virgin resources continue to be extracted
of increasing concern to society. The textile to supply the industry. According to recent
industry is a significant contributor with research in Australia by Eunomia,11 textiles
global textile production generating about were identified as having the second highest
1.2 billion tonnes of CO2e per year. If the potential both in terms of reduction of con-
industry continues on its current consumptive sumption, and improved recycling (Figure 3).
16FIGURE 3: Analysis of Differing
Carbon Impacts Per Waste Stream
Hazardous
Taken from Melbourne City analysis
Other
conducted by Eunomia (2019)
Inerts
Glass
E-waste
Ferrous metal
Non-ferrous metal
Wood
Textiles
Sanitary wastes
Food waste
Garden waste
Paper / card
Dense plastic
Soft plastics
-50,000 -40,000 -30,000 -20,000 -10,000 0 10,000
Tonnes CO2eq
Reduction Potential Recycling Potential Landfill Impact
17The interim secondhand ‘reuse’ route via the originating country. It does not address
charities is hugely beneficial for not only the volume of textiles we are consuming and
prolonging a textile product’s useful lifetime also does not meet consumer expectations
and helping the charity to raise funds for its of resource reuse and environmental
cause, but also to provide meaningful work stewardship. The issue is so significant that
for those who may be excluded from the in 2016 a block of East African Governments
job market. However, the increasing volume proposed a ban on the importation of
of donated textiles is testing the ability of secondhand clothes.
charities to sort and process efficiently, and
much of it is ending up in landfill (damaged
or soiled) or sent offshore (to be sold in less
affluent countries).
The export of our unwanted clothing has
a number of negative consequences - it
undercuts local clothing production resulting
in the loss of skilled jobs, and it replaces
localised clothing with used western clothing,
with the loss of local interpretation and
cultural expression through clothing design.
Off-shoring used garments also pushes the
associated environmental and social impacts
to countries with less infrastructure and less
social and environmental protections than
18Developing Technological Solutions
Recycling technology lags well behind the Mechanical recycling operations exist Technologies that loop textile resources
‘fast fashion’ phenomenon. This is in sharp in Europe and North America, however back into fibre and enable the transition to
contrast to the situation in the mid 20th many are only able to ‘down-cycle’ textiles a lower emissions industry are being piloted
century. During World War II there was a to lower quality forms e.g. clothing to in various locations around the world but
global shortage of textiles due to military insulation material. In recent years there still need further development to achieve
demand (for uniforms, blankets, tents, has also been a large increase in blended commercial scale. This has been referred to
parachutes, bandages etc). In that period, textile production, i.e. textiles made from a as the Achilles heel of the industry and is a
the textile recycling business boomed combination of natural and synthetic fibres. hurdle to a lower impact industry. Research
meeting the demand for scarce fabrics This presents a huge challenge to current and development of automated, or partly-
and yarn. Once the war finished demand (limited) recycling processes, as the blended automated solutions is underway, a good
for textile reprocessing plummeted textiles cannot easily be separated back into recent example being the ‘Fibresort’ pilot
and technology stalled. Research into their fibre types. US-based business Renewal facility opened in The Netherlands in 2020.13
technological solutions to the ‘textile waste’ Workshop’s research showed over half of the
problem is belatedly gearing up, but it is products they assessed for Brands contained
already clear that we cannot rely on these blended textiles.12
solutions to ‘solve’ everything.
19Increasing Regulation
Non-financial impacts are increasingly being its diversion from landfill to reuse and
factored into the requirements of doing recycling from 18% in 2009 to 36% in 201715
business, particularly in Europe where the Fees charged are based on quantity of
European Commission is expected to start textiles brought to market, with a discount
developing a new comprehensive strategy for for more sustainable materials. The income
textiles. Stakeholders have been lobbying in from fees charged is allocated to fund
this space for some time, including releasing sorting operations, community education,
a shadow strategy14 to bring the textile communication, research and development
industry in line with other industries. and efficiency projects. Although the scheme
is driven by waste reduction goals, through
Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)
the creation of employment it has also
has been applied in Europe to many
contributed to increased social and economic
product categories. The term is often
opportunities.
used interchangeably with ‘Product
Stewardship’. The leading example of Not all countries with an interest in EPR
EPR in textiles has been running in France are adopting a formal product stewardship
since 2008 administered by the Producer approach. Research in Nordic countries
Responsibility Organisation ‘Eco TLC’ suggests that such schemes focus on
(‘Textiles d’habillement, Linge de maison collecting, sorting, and recycling, and do
et Chaussures’ i.e. clothing, household not adequately address the sustainability
linen, and shoes) The scheme has doubled of the system.
20’EPR systems have a big tonnes of recovered textile waste 296 new
jobs are created in sorting, disassembling
impact on collection of and re-use and approx 2000 additional work
training, internships and community service
used textiles, but little opportunities.17
impact on upstream The Finnish approach is also of interest
as it applies the EPR concept without a
stages i.e. design. regulatory framework. The ‘Telaketju
Conversely, new business project’18 involves a broad engagement of
retailers, waste businesses, municipalities,
models like leasing/ investors, central government, charities, and
research organisations, with the ultimate goal
reselling have a clear to build an ecosystem to drive circularity.
upstream effect but little Each stakeholder is focused on supporting
progress in its part of the ecosystem.
impact on collection etc’ Although not a regulated EPR scheme, the
approach of ‘Telaketju’ is strongly influenced
The research also found ‘A mandatory EPR by two regulations at national level: The
system embodies the potential to integrate 2016 ban on organic waste being sent to
a range (combination) of complementing landfill (which technically includes organic
policy measures’16 creating a good systems textiles), and the upcoming EU member state
foundation. The research found social and requirement to start separately collecting
economic opportunities beyond waste textile waste by 2025.
diversion, estimating that for every 10,000
21Rising Expectations
Through COVID the fragility of the world’s
economic model suddenly became more
“Collectively we have be flipped into revenue generation and job
creation in the textile sorting and recycling
apparent. A recent report by environmental created a world where sector. Encouragingly, there are signs that
consultancy Trucost19 found that of the top global textile businesses are becoming
20 region-sectors ranked by environmental our emissions have aware of the need to adopt a more circular
impacts, none would be profitable if
environmental costs were fully integrated
destabilised the planet’s approach and to lighten the burden on
the Earth. For example, around 12.5% of
(paying their full costs). Herein lies the climate and our waste the global fashion market made a public
conundrum for business adopting more commitment to circularity in 2019 by signing
sustainable behaviours competing in the has disrupted every the Circular Fashion System Commitment.20
same marketplace. The current distributed
costs model is a society pays model, ecosystem on the globe.” Consumer sentiment is changing, and
expectations of textile businesses and
although appearing cheaper to the consumer, – Dr Stephanie Pride
government are rising. People have an
many costs are none-the-less present but are
In the world’s current linear model, goods affinity with the textiles that they wear,
absorbed by society and the environment.
become a waste cost borne by the holder, and do not want to feel guilty when they
Sustainable models represent a user pays
the environment and society at their end purchase products. The viewpoint that textile
model where all costs are internalised, from
of use. Through the establishment of a businesses are the cause of environmental
paying workers living wages to paying for
more circular model, used resources that and social impacts is a major risk to the
environmental impacts of products and
are currently incurring a cost could instead entire industry.
services offered.
22NZ Context
The local textile industry has undergone also occur offshore also e.g. water pollution,
significant change since it was founded carbon emissions and social impacts.
over 150 years ago. Deregulation of the However, once the textiles are onshored they
textile industry in the 1980s led to the loss tend to remain here. Export of secondhand
of a mass-manufacturing, encouraging textiles to less affluent nations does occur,
specialisation within the industry but at typically to Pacific Island nations, in particular
a much lower level of activity. Wool fibre Papua New Guinea.
dominates local fibre production, with
A good understanding of the Aotearoa
Aotearoa the third largest producer in the
context in this space is prevented by a lack
world in 2019, producing over 9% of global
of data. With only high-level data available in
production.22 Very little other textile fibre
terms of textile volumes being disposed of in
manufacture occurs. Local manufacture of
landfill. MfE estimates that textiles comprised
textiles also tends to be focused on wool due
4% of total waste volumes to landfill in 2008
to the availability of raw materials, however
(126,240t).23 Auckland Council estimates that
manufacture of high-value woollen textiles
textiles are currently 9% of their landfills, and
such as super-fine merino occurs offshore.
that at current growth rates this would rise
The majority of the textiles that enter the to 14% by 2040. Better quality data capture
market originate offshore. Much of the non- would enable better management
financial impacts of these textiles therefore of resources and issues.
23There is currently little to no local operational The Waste Minimisation Act (2008) is
textile recycling in Aotearoa. The Textile the foundational legislation at central
Reuse Programme has explored some of government level for waste management.
the emerging fibre-to-fibre technologies at After many years with few changes to the
pilot stage; trialing Moral Fibre’s technology Act, the 2018-2020 Government triggered
converting Air NZ polyester uniforms into multiple reviews and a strengthening of its
recycled PET (commonly referred to as ‘rPET’) approach to waste management. In 2020 the
and BlockTEXX technology separating cotton government confirmed its plan to increase
and polyester textiles. Worn Again in the the waste levy charged at landfills that take
UK is further potential technology which is household waste, taking the levy from $10
being explored. As these technologies are per tonne to $60 per tonne over successive
developed to commercial scale the business years and expanding the scope to cover
case for implementing them onshore can additional landfill types (previously there was
be advanced. There is some promising no levy on almost 90% of landfills throughout
technology developed locally which the country). It is expected that this change
can support more efficient textile waste will make disposal less favourable for
identification and sorting - a key component textiles, and increase the level of reuse and
in the development of commercial textile recycling. Government has also committed to
sorting infrastructure. Waikato based improved data collection for better resource
technology provider Sagitto combines management which will assist stakeholders
miniature spectroscopy with machine to implement improvements and monitor
learning models to scan, test and validate progress. The Act includes provision for
the composition of textiles. product stewardship schemes, both voluntary
24and regulated schemes. Although it has Expectations are rising in Aotearoa,
been in place for 12 years, it was only recently particularly amongst younger consumers,
(in 2020) that the Government designated that the textile industry must adopt a
certain products as ‘priority products’ textiles more circular approach. Most awareness is
were not included. The following product centred in the fashion industry which has
categories have been defined for inclusion in established reuse pathways of donating to
a regulated pathway: charity or op-shops, and in recent years the
growth of resellers (selling on behalf) such
– Plastic packaging
as Recycle Boutique. Significant changes
– Tyres to the global recycling export market have
also had an indirect effect on the textiles
– Electrical and electronic products industry in Aotearoa, with many stakeholders
(e-waste) increasingly looking to the industry to
– Agrichemicals and their containers develop local solutions to its end-of-life
textile challenges.
– Refrigerants
– Farm plastics
25What We The textile industry in Aotearoa comprises many
subsectors. Fashion clothing has a high profile, with much of
Found the focus on sustainability, environment and social/ ethical
considerations on this sector, However businesses in other
textile subsectors are also under increased pressure from
customers to provide more sustainable offerings, solutions
for end-of-use and greater transparency. Until now, no
overview of the textile flows in Aotearoa has been available
to inform stakeholder of the scale of the challenge. Given
the small size of the local industry and market, a clear
overview of the state of current textile flows is an essential
starting point for building consensus and collaboration in
order to gain better scale.
26Textile Flows in Aotearoa
HIGH-LEVEL OVERVIEW OF
FABRIC AND TEXTILE FLOWS
Aotearoa is a net-importer of fibre, fabric and
textiles. Over 380,000 tonnes of fibre, fabric,
and textile products are imported into the
country every year. This is significantly higher
than the volume of fibre (mostly wool) and
textile products produced locally. Importing
and local production is mostly for local
consumption, excluding the majority of wool
which is shipped offshore. Landfill is the main
destination for end-of-life textiles in Aotearoa.
27265,351t/yr FIGURE 4: Overview of
FIBRE & FABRIC IMPORTED
(1.6% WOOL) Textile Flows in Aotearoa
4,242 t/yr
118,870 t/yr EXPORTED APPAREL REUSE Refer to ‘LOOKING IN THE MIRROR –
TEXTILE PRODUCTS IMPORTED
A review of circularity in the clothing and
textile industry in Aotearoa’ Full Report for
further detail. © Usedfully®
COMMERCIAL USE
CONSUMER USE
137,600 t/yr
FIBRE & FABRIC PRODUCTION
(100% WOOL – GREASY)
123,997 t/yr
TEXTILE PRODUCTS
PRODUCTION
141,531t/yr 220,800 t/yr
FIBRE & FABRIC EXPORTED FIBRE, FABRIC &
(74% WOOL) TEXTILES SENT
TO LANDFILL
39,305 t/yr
TEXTILE PRODUCTS EXPORTED
28CARPET TEXTILE FLOWS A limited amount of carpet reuse and
recycling is occurring currently in Aotearoa.
Aotearoa still maintains a local carpet
In the commercial space this is mostly via
manufacturing industry, mostly linked to the
the ‘Re:Entry’ accredited voluntary product
availability of wool fibre for use in carpets.
stewardship programme, which diverts 329
Local manufacture of carpets is a similar
tonnes of carpet tiles per year to reuse, and
volume to imported carpets, although
121 tonnes per year to be recycled back
imports are likely to be mostly synthetic in
into carpet tiles. In addition, some reuse of
composition. Over 112,000 tonnes of carpet
residential carpets does occur at a low level,
and carpet tiles are installed in Aotearoa
including repurposing for uses such as weed
per year, with typical lifetimes varying from
mats. The vast majority of end-of-life carpets
6 years for commercial use (linked to typical
are sent to landfill.
space lease contracts) through to an average
of 15 years for residential carpets.
29121 t/yr 3,083 t/yr
COMMERCIAL RECYCLING CONSUMER REPURPOSE
329 t/yr
COMMERCIAL REUSE
76,231t/yr
CARPET IMPORTED
2,055 t/yr
CONSUMER REUSE
15 yrs
112,029 t/yr CONSUMER USE 148,341 t/yr
CARPET INSTALLED 6 yrs CARPET SENT
TO LANDFILL
86,935 t/yr COMMERCIAL USE
NZ CARPET
MANUFACTURERS
FIGURE 5: Carpet Textile
Flows in Aotearoa
Refer to ‘LOOKING IN THE MIRROR –
12,448 t/yr
CARPET WASTE
A review of circularity in the clothing and
38,689 t/yr 504 t/yr textile industry in Aotearoa’ Full Report for
CARPET EXPORTED PRE-CONSUMER RECYCLING further detail. © Usedfully®
30APPAREL TEXTILE FLOWS This volume excludes the proportion of
donated apparel which is not of sufficient
The local apparel industry has declined in
quality and condition to be resold (typically
recent years due to increasing competition
50% of the donated volume).
offshore, however it remains a significant
manufacturer of apparel entering the market Commercial reuse of apparel via a rental
Local apparel production tends to be in model does occur in Aotearoa, at a relatively
niche specialised categories, and less so in low level (in comparison to commercial
mainstream categories. A small proportion of linen rental). In recent years there has
apparel made onshore is exported, reflecting been a growth in consumer apparel rental
the local industry’s niche approach. The vast businesses. While this trend is positive, it
majority of textiles end up in landfill at end- was not possible to calculate the actual
of-life, before that nearly 7000 tonnes per volume of textiles flowing through this
year are channeled via secondhand stores category at this stage.
and charities and into the reuse cycle.
31FIGURE 6: Apparel Textile
CONSUMER RENTAL
Flows in Aotearoa
CONSUMER REUSE Refer to ‘LOOKING IN THE MIRROR –
(INFORMAL SHARING)
A review of circularity in the clothing and
textile industry in Aotearoa’ Full Report for
143 t/yr
CONSUMER REUSE (CONSIGNMENT) further detail. © Usedfully®
CONSUMER REPURPOSE
COMMERCIAL REPURPOSE
6,795 t/yr
19,881t/yr CONSUMER REUSE (CHARITY)
APPAREL IMPORTED
4,242 t/yr
EXPORTED
8,750 t/yr APPAREL REUSE
COMMERCIAL RENTAL
Worn 144 times
COMMERCIAL USE
34,922 t/yr
18,531 t/yr Worn 98 times APPAREL SENT
NZ APPAREL CONSUMER USE TO LANDFILL
MANUFACTURERS S
78 t/yr 423 t/yr
SECONDHAND APPAREL EXPORTED
APPAREL IMPORTED 32OTHER TEXTILE FLOWS little data was available on rental textiles at
end-of-life. Stakeholders reported that most
The flows of the remaining textile types e.g.
textiles in this condition were unsuitable for
linen, towels, curtains, home textiles were
further reuse, and were cut into rags. No
also mapped in order to characterise this
data was available on the volume of rags
category and enable some comparison with
produced via any textile category locally, but
the others. Much less data was available for
there was sufficient evidence from interviews
this category, and in many cases it was not
that it is a common end-of-life ‘repurposing’
possible to estimate data to fill gaps. Again,
for linen and towels in particular. Regardless,
a similar volume of textile is imported versus
the majority of these textiles still find their
manufactured locally.
way to landfill.
Commercial textile rental is a significant
and mature circular activity in Aotearoa,
and particularly popular with the hotel and
healthcare industries. Perhaps linked to this,
33CONSUMER REUSE
FIGURE 7: Other Textiles
(INFORMAL SHARING) Flows in Aotearoa
CONSUMER REUSE Refer to ‘LOOKING IN THE MIRROR –
(CHARITY)
A review of circularity in the clothing and
textile industry in Aotearoa’ Full Report for
further detail. © Usedfully®
91,933 t/yr
COMMERCIAL RENTAL
CONSUMER REPURPOSE
COMMERCIAL REPURPOSE
22,680 t/yr
TEXTILE PRODUCTS
IMPORTED
EXPORTED TEXTILE
PRODUCT REUSE
COMMERCIAL USE
37,466 t/yr
TEXTILE PRODUCTS
CONSUMER USE SENT TO LANDFILL
18,531 t/yr 194 t/yr
NZ TEXTILE PRODUCT TEXTILE PRODUCTS
MANUFACTURERS EXPORTED NOTE: These visualisations are based on the best data available at the time, however they are indicative as
significant data gaps remain e.g. available data has in some cases been extrapolated in order to present an
overview of the current situation. The intention is to inform the reader and stimulate discussion and thinking
about how to both improve the accuracy of this picture, and move from the linear model to a more circular one. 34Textile From the analysis and distillation of
data from the 36 participant interviews,
Industry six main themes emerged:
Perspectives
– Waste and end-of-life
– Resource and opportunity loss
– Infrastructure and regulation
– Competition and collaboration
– Reputation and willingness
– Expectation and opportunity
35Waste and End-of-Life
While Aotearoa does have limited onshore – “Textile waste is a priority
manufacturing, by far the vast majority of environmental issue”
textile products are imported fully made up,
– “Mixed waste is difficult to address
placing the market at the end of the value
because it is mixed, better separation
chain. Not surprisingly, waste and end-of-
is necessary to unlock better outcomes”
life were dominant and consistent themes
presented by interviewees: – “Waste is a big problem, the lack of
processing facilities and technology
“Far too much is made, to deal with textile waste”
consumed, used and – “The environmental challenge is keeping
the stuff out of landfill. The unsold
thrown away without unwanted clothing from our charity shops.”
having a decent life”
36A number of participants focused directly on With the rise of the secondhand, reseller
the issue of post-consumer product end-of- market, more used clothing flows first
life (EOL): through resellers before donation to charity
stores. Charities are being left with lower
– “Lack of solutions for EOL clothing, lots of
quality goods, attracting lower returns and
people and brands interested in EOL”
higher volumes of waste and disposal costs.
– “EOL is too hard” The alternative, exporting clothes for reuse
and recycling is perceived as increasingly
– “End of cycle stuff, one of the major issues risky. With the closure of borders due to
especially for us as a business reselling COVID-19 and the added environmental and
clothing” financial costs of transporting used resources
– “EOL, there’s been charities and things across borders, international shipments of
that we’re giving clothes to, but that’s not used textiles are decreasing. Waste textile
sustainable” volumes in Aotearoa are forecast to continue
increasing, along with their associated
environmental impacts and costs.
37Resource and Opportunity Loss
Several charitable organisations observed – “Volume. Too much stuff, it’s
that the sheer volume and seemingly endless overwhelming and time consuming”
supply of clothes and large amount of waste
– “Low value textiles are not valued by
was creating “eco-anxiety” amongst staff
the user, so unlikely to be looked after
members:
or kept long”
“Lack of product design – “Donation of textiles at end of life is not
for recyclability” sufficient to support repair, repurposing or
recycling activity at scale”
– “Commercial fitouts are linked to lease
term, and not product lifetime”
38A perceived skills and knowledge loss (of Further observations included how the lack
how to use, mend and reuse the resources of onshore circularity of resources results
people have) plays into the high level of in a continued over-reliance on virgin raw
donated goods. materials. Also that mixed / blend textiles
are not designed with their end in mind and
Corporate and other donations of textile
pose a barrier to recycling. The focus on
products to charities do not come with
recycled material to market, while positive,
financial assistance to convert the donations
without the product being designed to
into saleable products, leaving the costs
be recycled at end-of-life is adding further
and risk of repair or re-engineering, stock
obstacles to circularity.
holding and resale to be borne by the charity
The larger brands in Aotearoa perceive
“It is time consuming and themselves as small on the global scale,
labour intensive. Majority and too small a part of a global supply
chain’s customer base to have leverage
of donations are junk, with suppliers.
cheap manufacturing”
To re-engineer donations that are not
saleable as is into good quality products
requires a high level of skill not readily
available in charity’s volunteer staff or within
the community skills programmes offered by
some charities.
39Infrastructure and Regulation
Multiple respondents noted a lack of “You’ve got the government passing
government strategy for textile waste as a legislation, even down to the plasticisation of
pain point. Government’s focus on plastics the labels that go on apples, there’s nothing
not extending to, or even including synthetic like that in the clothing space. That’s the sort
textiles (a significant contributor to plastic of focus that we need to get government to
pollution), and a lack of understanding and have, we need to seriously look at building a
recognition of the seriousness and impact plant here for end of life garments. We want
of textile waste were seen as hindering clarity on approval levels, we want tax breaks,
policy and access to funding to support and a strategy in place so that we can drive it
and drive change. forward for New Zealand. Similar to what the
tyre industry has done here, that would then
“Government is a pain point, textile waste has
provide some strong traction.”
been pushed to the background, don’t pay
attention to how big the scale of the problem “There is a clash of ideology, council revenue
is in NZ. Legislators when they think about generation from landfills versus impact
the environment they focus on clean water, of waste.”
food waste but ignore textiles, the elephant
in the room.”
40Lack of infrastructure for post-consumer “Being able to source and to understand
textile goods was viewed as leaving little the impact of the textiles that we’re buying.
alternative to landfilling. Lack of aggregation, You can’t make decisions if you don’t have
sorting and access to clean sorted resources the information. If you compare it to food,
is a common issue. The lack of awareness nutrition, you can look on a packet and go,
of textile flows and management at landfills, it’s got this much fat. We can’t make that
due to most arriving as mixed waste, and the decision around clothing and that’s what we
cheap cost of landfilling compared to the were lacking, information to drive informed
costs of repurposing were also identified as decision making.”
barriers to progress.
From a corporate procurement perspective,
although wanting to make more holistic
decisions, the lack of standardisation and
information on textiles leaves businesses
procuring textiles and uniforms focused
solely on price point decisions.
41Competition and Collaboration
The level of industry fragmentation is notable, In the evolution of the industry to a
and while there are lots of small players their lower emissions model, greater strides
ability to scale up sustainability initiatives on can be achieved at a faster rate through
their own is limited and challenging. The lack collaboration, the pooling of resources and
of industry collaboration, within sectors and the sharing of knowledge. While this may be
across sectors increases the inefficiencies. A counter to how the industry usually operates,
number of brands in this highly competitive the overheads that would need to be carried
market have established, or are being for advancement are too great to be carried
encouraged to establish individual initiatives by one single organisation alone.
to improve circularity and gain market
Collating data for this report proved difficult
advantage. However, individual initiatives
due to a lack of impact measurement in the
each with one-off overheads, attract low
sector, but perhaps more importantly, the
volumes and result in minimal overall impact.
absence of measurement and available data
indicates there is limited oversight
over resources.
42Reputation and Willingness
Risk to reputation was perceived from an 43% of respondents expressed a willingness
organisational and industry perspective to be more active, to engage in initiatives
but also from a macro, country perspective. to improve the current linear system, or
Open source research and availability to actively advance the development of
of information from global initiatives left local solutions.
some respondents frustrated by what
“Want to go to government to drive forward
they perceived as a lag between what was
a (fibre-to-fibre) solution in NZ. Time is right.
happening globally and the state of play
That would enable some serious traction.”
within their own country.
“So how can we do things better? What does
“Understanding that if NZ best practice look like? What opportunities
are there?”
doesn’t do something, we
will fall behind what is
happening in the world,
we have to catch up.”
43Expectation and Opportunity
Both B2C and B2B businesses are under
increasing pressure from customers to
life cycle out of it, to reduce landfill. And
just really make the most of what someone
“It’s the reason we’re in
provide greater stewardship and EOL doesn’t really want, I guess is probably the this industry, to provide
solutions. Some participants described best way to put it because people do want it.”
how they used sustainability as a platform people with the most
An increase in the awareness of the impacts
to express their organisational and
personal values system. Participants that
of clothing production has led to increased convenient way to recycle
demand for second hand and vintage
were engaging in circularity and product
clothing as a more environmentally friendly their clothing to make the
stewardship initiatives also recognised the
opportunities for leadership, consumer
alternative to new clothing. Globally over the
longest life cycle out of it,
last three years second hand markets grew
loyalty, innovation, impact, collaboration
or all of the above.
21 times faster than the retail apparel market. to reduce landfill.”
The secondhand market, currently worth
“It’s the reason we’re in this industry, to USD$24 billion, is expected to reach USD$51
provide people with the most convenient way billion in five years.24
to recycle their clothing to make the longest
44FIGURE 8: Transitional Textiles Model
© Usedfully®
Garment & Product Retailers &
Manufacturers Resellers
Reuse
Textile
Raw Materials Users Repair
Manufacturers
Repurpose
Collectors &
Aggregators
Export
Landfill
Overseas
45Some front-footed designer clothing brands The reseller market is positioned between
have moved into the reseller space offering retailing of new products and the charity
their own product as preloved, generating donation sector, and is changing the retail
a new revenue stream without the draw landscape. It is acquiring market share from
of virgin resources. This also provides the both quarters with some retailers offering
opportunity to re-engage with customers both new and second hand clothing in
and further build loyalty. The addition of response, to enhance their offering to
mending services builds on established environmentally conscious consumers.
sustainability positioning. Coupled with an increased interest in repair 25
and reuse, the linear model is moving
towards improved reuse loops and greater
potential for circularity (as illustrated in Figure
8), albeit currently operating at low levels.
IMAGE: Kowtow 46Conclusion: A Vision of a Future State
Futurists predict a rapid move away from Ten years from now there will be little
the current centralised extraction, the tolerance for waste in the value chain.
breakdown of resources and large physical Research company McKinsey and Co suggest
scale production, to a model of localised that “By 2030, we need to live in a world in
creation. Arbib and Seba in their book which 1 in 5 garments are traded through
‘Rethinking Humanity’ calls this fundamental circular business models”.27 At today’s global
shift not simply an Industrial Revolution, scale that equates to 20 billion garments
but the beginning of the Third Age of produced and reused through a circular
Humankind. Foreseeing a migration away system. Pride describes a future state where
from a world built on coal, oil, steel, livestock, “waste is an unnecessary burden on us all”
and concrete to one built on “photons, and where “low emissions are a key part of
electrons, DNA, molecules and (q)bits”26 marketing and a source of pride for business
A future production system that relies on and community.”28
technologies we are already using today,
Bending the current linear system into a
and new technologies like fibre-to-fibre that
closed loop means collecting and sorting
take used textiles back to their molecular
used textile resources in Aotearoa and
parts and regenerates them for reuse in new
feeding them back into the start of the value
filaments and products. Moving industry
chain (Figure 9). When most production
away from one of extraction to a world
starts offshore this seems unlikely to be
of creation.
47feasible or economic. However, in the midst Current uncoordinated initiatives can be
of the pandemic, disruption in supply chains harnessed to create meaningful impact
resulted in a degree of near-shoring and on- through multi-stakeholder collaboration
shoring of production. Predictions of more between sectors and between private
distributed and autonomous production business and the public sector. This is an
regions suddenly began to seem more imperative given the small size of the textile
realistic. To further their adoption Aotearoa sub-sectors – let alone the textile industry
would need to re-believe in its potential as as a whole – and will provide an opportunity
a manufacturing country. for Aotearoa to move away from high risk,
competitive individual activities, to more
resilient and scalable collaborative systems.
48FIGURE 9: (Future) Circular Textiles Model
© Usedfully®
Garment & Product Retailers &
Manufacturers Resellers
Reuse
Textile
Raw Materials Users Repair
Manufacturers
Repurpose
Recyclers Collectors &
Aggregators
Other
Industries
49Improved data capture and better quality Product Stewardship has been identified by
data on textiles and the waste entering the Government as a foundational element
landfills in Aotearoa will provide the missing of a low emissions future. If applied to the
information needed to support investment textile industry, there is huge potential
decisions in new technologies and physical to accelerate the transition to a circular
infrastructure. Although technological textiles model.
solutions on their own cannot achieve the
What this research uncovered in Aotearoa
transformation needed to reach a low carbon
is a textile industry no longer satisfied with
future. What is also needed is the support
business as usual. Business owners and
of the organising system, society and its
employees committed to creating a better
institutions, the laws and regulation, to unlock
future, with the drive and the tenacity to
the potential to reduce environmental and
make that future a reality.
social impacts in the value chain.
Mā pango, mā whero ka oti te mahi
Through cooperation, objectives can be achieved 50Acknowledgements
We are grateful to the Ministry for the Paul Edgar Bird – Edgar and Bird Vanessa Thompson – Unravelled Consultants
Environment’s Te Pūtea Whakamauru Para
Anna Ford – Glassons & Hallenstein Brothers Adele Dubarry – Waste Not Create Space
– Waste Minimisation Fund and the Textile
Reuse Programme Foundation Partners, Lynette Fielding – Glassons & Hallenstein Zoretta Rose – Recycle Boutique
Alsco NZ, Barkers Clothing, Deane Apparel Brothers
and Wellington City Council for their support. Mark Cowie – Recycle Boutique
James Walker – Mindful Fashion
Thank you to all those who participated in Nadine Koruna – Accor Group
interviews and shared their knowledge and Jacinta Fitzgerald – Mindful Fashion
Manjula Sickler – ADHB
perspectives: Geraldine Tew – The Recreators
Parul Sood – Auckland Council
Gavin Smith – Alsco NZ Caroline O’Reilly – Vinnies Resew
Julie Dickenson – Auckland Council
Selva Ganapathy – BOP Regional Council Rob Ward – Beverley Productions
Ben Kepes – Cactus Outdoor
Dylan Ford – Circular Store Emily Miller-Sharma – Ruby
Rochelle Flint – Cavalier Bremworth
James Stonyer – Deane Apparel Toby Clark – Toby Etc
Kay Murray – Connections Trust
Joanna Hehir – Danu Natural Sarah Lei – Trevelyan
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