THE DISTILLED GUIDE TO: GLOBAL TRENDS - Carlsberg We Deliver More
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VOLUME 06
APRIL - JUNE
I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H
TOM SANDHAM & BEN MCFARLAND
THINKING DRINKERS
THE DISTILLED GUIDE TO:
G LO B A L T R E N D S
G LO B A L T R E N D S
WELCOME TO THE
SIXTH EDITION OF 2019 2 WELCOME
SPIRITS SUPPLEMENTS 4 THE THINKING DRINKERS
6 HIGHBALL
FROM DISTILLED. 8 A POSTCARD FROM
10 KENYA
Get ready to set sail on a globe trotting trip to bring you some
really exciting new brands to the Distilled range with our sixth 12 IRELAND
edition spirits supplement. 14 TURKEY
So let’s start with gin – believe it or not, gin isn’t just hot in the Across the Pacific, on to South America and our 16 UNITED KINGDOM
UK! The Spanish have been gin-mad for many years and the first stop is in Peru, not only a popular holiday
copa glass G&T serve has certainly spread much further afield, destination, Peru also produces some of the 18 USA
and one we are firm fans of here in the UK. Larios, now part of
the Edrington Beam-Suntory portfolio is creating quite a stir
world’s best Pisco, including our new Pisco in
the range – Barsol. Barsol is the number 1 Pisco
20 AUSTRALIA
this year in the UK and features in this edition. brand in the USA and it has topped the World’s 50 22 JOE SCHOFIELD
Best Bars Top Selling / Trending lists for the last 3
Now for a short hop across the Mediterranean to Italy’s years, so make sure it’s on your list to try. 26 SPIRIT OF SPAIN
Amalfy coast and the wonderfully zesty Malfy Limone.
The gin you all loved in last year’s gin range, is now joined by Think Brazil, think Cachaça! The Responsible
28 A DUTCH MASTER
the equally impressive Malfy Blood Orange and Pink Grapefruit Trading Company (RTC), who produce Abelha 32 SIMPLER TIMES
flavours – now this is a trio that deserve a place on any back Cachaça, are developing fair partnerships with
bar & gin menu. small holding farmers. They share with them their 34 JAPAN RISING SUN
values and organic teaching methods to enable
All the way down under, the gang at Four Pillars are celebrating farmers to grow sugar cane 100% organically on
the 100th anniversary of the Negroni with their very own Spiced the highland sandy soils. CHECK US OUT 38 KETEL ONE BOTANICALS
Negroni gin. Packed with peppery spice and blood orange, at
43.8% strength this gin really won’t disappoint. Now let’s spice things up with a hit of chilli
FOR FULL EXTENDED 42 APPLETON ESTATE 12 YEAR OLD
CONTENT PLEASE VISIT
Heading north on a slow boat to Asia, the next gin Tarsier (yes,
from Kahlua and their chili chocolate coffee
liqueur! What more can I say…spice, coffee,
DISTILLEDUK.COM 44 BARSOL PISCO
named after the small primate of Asia) not only has Asian chocolate…yum! 46 ABELHA CACHAÇA ORGANIC SILVER
influence in the liquid, they also donate 10% of their profits to
the Tarsia conservation project in the Philippines. Rum continues to create huge interest around
CALL US 48 FOUR PILLARS SPICED NEGRONI GIN
Silverback gin, the final gin to make it in this edition is a really
the world. From Jamaica, Appleton 12 is a great
addition to the Signature Blend. Appleton 12yr Old
CALL 0845 072 7092
TO PLACE AN ORDER
50 GORILLA SILVERBACK GIN
interesting brand from Gorilla Spirits. For every bottle they sell, is stocked in 1 in 4 of the most influential bars in WITH YOUR SALES 52 GORILLA MARABA
Gorilla Spirits donate £1 to The Gorilla Organisation charity. London and can be savoured as a sipping rum or MANAGER
There are only 880 mountain gorillas existing in the world and enjoyed in quality classic cocktails like this Estate 54 KAHLUA CHILI CHOC
the money raised by sales of Gorilla Spirits is used to support Old Fashioned. 56 LARIOS DRY GIN
ranger patrols and also fund local community projects in FOLLOW US
Rwanda, Uganda and DR Congo. Finally, a new entry and perhaps a new category.
DISTILLEDUK
58 MALFY GIN
Ketel One have really ticked the innovation box
Alongside the gin, take a look at the Maraba Coffee liqueur with their botanicals range. At 30% ABV, this gives DISTILLEDUK 60 TARSIER GIN
from Gorilla. Gorilla Spirits have teamed up with local
Hampshire coffee specialists Moonroast Coffee and sourced
a great option for a slightly lighter and refreshing
spritz serve with soda and plenty of fruit.
62 SUNTORY WHISKY TOKI
some superlative Single Estate Maraba Red Bourbon Arabica
coffee beans from Rwanda. This makes an amazing sipping So, you know what to do by now – try the range,
liqueur for a perk-up after dinner or of course in an great all the brands will be available until the end Distilled is a trading name of Carlsberg All products are supplied subject to our standard terms and conditions of sale; copies are available
Espresso Martini of June. For those you really like, there’s a fair UK Limited. at www.carlsberguk.co.uk/termsandconditions. By law, we cannot sell or supply alcohol to anyone
Customer Contact Centre: 08456 013 432 who isn’t over 18. By placing an order you confirm that you are 18 or over and have accepted
chance they will be here to stay for the rest of the Carlsberg UK Limited. Registered office: and agreed to be bound by all applicable terms and conditions. Whilst any recommendations or
Japan has become a real hot-spot in the world of Whisky. Toki year, Bon Voyage! Jacobsen House, 140 Bridge Street, representations in this guide or otherwise made by Distilled are given in good faith, you should not
from Suntory takes a blend of carefully selected whiskies from Northampton, NN1 1PZ rely on them in place of your own independent professional advice. All images are for illustration
Company number: 00078439 only, product packaging may differ. Details correct at time of going to print. We reserve the right
the House of Suntory’s globally acclaimed Hakushu Distillery, Katie Hewitt CARLSBERG UK IS A MEMBER OF THE to change details without notice. Errors and omissions excepted. These terms and conditions and
Yamazaki Distillery, and Chita Distiller. Category Manager Spirits PORTMAN GROUP – PROMOTING any dispute or claim arising out of or in connection with them shall be governed by English Law and
RESPONSIBLE DRINKING subject to the exclusive jurisdiction of the courts of England and Wales.
G LO B A L T R E N D S THE THINKING DRINKERS THE THINKING DRINKERS G LO B A L T R E N D S
G L O B A L T R E N D S
Welcome to our trends the customers perception of highball was mentioned in almost For those who haven’t seen it, the of themes that were apparent now. If you only take a few tips
supplement, a glance at drinks, but it’s also important to every case. So we pay tribute to the previous special edition magazine amongst all of them, but perhaps away, we hope it might help spark
bartender behaviour in a host of stay on top of the more general drink on page 6 and throughout the gave the Classics a rigorous going the most significant proved to be something on a menu and bring in
cities around the world. It’s nice trends, particularly in spirits. pages you’ll hear other bartenders over, please seek it out online at sustainability, foraging and local. new customers, because one trend
to see what other people are up talking about whisky and how they DistilledUK.com, it’s packed with In Japan the foraging work of that isn’t going away is the need to
to, isn’t it? Yes, it is. But the main So, in this magazine, we’ll dip into are using it in drinks right now. great advice. But we return to the emerging bartender legend make money.
reason for us doing it here, in this some of the more niche local subject here because, classics, Hiroyasu Kayama takes things
magazine, is to inspire you with foraging of rosehips and sorrel Then there’s gin. Another and more specifically a return to a step further, read about his
your spirits. wood; take a sip of a drink with staggering revelation for you, gin simplicity is a key trend for bars extraordinary approach to
Buffalo Clotted Cream Fat Washed is popular right now… But whether right now. Australian bartender, bartending on page 34.
To that end we have travelled far Dry Vermouth; and try a garnish of you have embraced the rise and owner and all round super star
and wide to gather some of the Anise Myrtle laced Corella pear. rise of the spirit or not, you should Tim Philips gives his strong views And while vodka continues it’s
most significant trends in spirits But we’ll also focus on some of the know this isn’t going away. One of on page 32. renaissance with a connection to
and bartending right now. Safe to more generic trends that will help the most innovative bartenders in provenance and flavour, the equally
say, boundaries in drink are being you with loading the back bar. Spain, Diego Cabrera, talks about In a bid to cover off as many of the interesting project at Ketel One
pushed beyond anything that once all sorts of interesting trends on trends as we could in a confined has been its development of the
seemed sensible. Fermentables For example, the tried and tested page 26, but when it comes to the space, we spoke to the regional Botanical spirits. Lower in abv and
in the form of kombucha and kefir highball is on trend right now. As is number one spirit of the moment winners of the last World Class packed with botanical punch, these
have earned an unlikely cool, Midori Scotch. Hold the front page, right? there, it’s still gin. While we all look cocktail competition. The logic could fast become an essential in
is apparently making a return to Granted, it might seem a little like to rediscover forgotten spirits, here was that these people are the bar.
discerning drinks and bourbon yesterday’s news tomorrow, but or to create something new, this currently at the top of their game,
rested in coffee beans is catching when we spoke to the leading is evidence that you ignore the so if they’re embracing a trend, Lots to digest then, some new,
the eye of some. These are pioneers in bartending across the customer’s favourite at your peril. it’s worth you knowing about it. some old, all important to
admirable attempts at changing planet about trends, the whisky Interestingly, there were a selection bartenders around the world right
6 7
G LO B A L T R E N D S HIGHBALL HIGHBALL G LO B A L T R E N D S
SCOTCH APPEARANCE
& SODA We err on the side of a small and simple
glass, standard size is around 350ml but
One of the earliest mentions of this drink experiment. Ratios depend on customer taste,
appears in the 1900 Bartender’s Manual by but in a whisky soda, two parts whisky to
Harry Johnson and suggests two or three lumps three parts soda works for us. If you use a straw,
of clear ice, a ‘wine glass’ measure of Scotch make sure it isn’t plastic and the garnish will help
(roughly 60ml) and ice cold soda. Also check justify its inclusion on the cocktail menu. Jorge
out Patrick Duffy in the history books, who is Meyer is the bar legend who created the gin basil
widely attributed with the invention of the name. smash. He’s behind Le Lion and Boilerman bars,
in Hamburg, that focus on the long drink serve.
Whisky doesn’t have an illustrious They serve up long drinks in smaller glasses and
cocktail history, the list of
creations using it as a base spirit
is considerably shorter than that
BUCKS they look incredible.
of gin. But the whisky highball, or
whisky and soda, was one of the
most common mixed drinks serves
The highball emerged with from the popular
cocktails of the late 18th century, think Old
Fashioned, Martinez, Sazerac and Pink Gin.
BUILD
of the 20th century and is a drink The buck grew from it and it subsequently The Japanese have made an art into theatre,
as strong on a menu as many other inspired the Dark ‘n’ Stormy so this will help to their whisky highball, or Mizuwari, is slowly built
classic. And the good news is, the expand a highball menu. with a little whisky poured over ice, stirred,
HIGHBALL
highball is a trend in the best bars topped with a little of the chilled water, stirred,
across the world. and so on until complete. That said, if you’re
The gin and tonic helped drive
customers back to this classic
MULE using soda water, the drink doesn’t need much
stirring, a metal spoon and interaction of
bubbles with ice can diminish the carbonation.
and as gin drinkers move on to The highball also gave us the mule family, the
explore the complexities of whisky, most famous being the Moscow Mule, a blend
it seems Scotch, Irish, Japanese
and American whiskey can benefit
from a bit of care and attention to a
of vodka and ginger beer. Other incarnations
include tequila and brandy. One of the simplest
and most successful serves we’ve encountered
DILUTION
highball menu. Highballs appeared is the Jameson Irish Whiskey Ginger and lime. Quality ice is essential for all your cocktails, but
on menus as early as the early 19th Simple but incredibly drinkable. particularly in a drink like this. A single column
century, so if an appreciation of of large cubes or even large single piece of ice
history is your thing, this fits that Ingredients running through the spine of the drink makes it
bill too. 50ml of Jameson Irish Whiskey feel proper. Too much wet ice is a crime, floating
Ginger Ale ice looks a bit rubbish. The ice will make the
It’s a simple drink in terms of recipe Large wedge of lime drink look great but also avoid over dilution.
spec, and easy to knock out with And if you have fridge space, go the extra yard
speed on a busy night, but this is a Method and frost the glasses for visual impact and
drink that still requires respect and Fill a highball glass with ice. optimum temperature.
with a very small amount of Add Jameson. Top up the glass with ginger ale
bespoke invention, like an inhouse Take a large wedge of lime, give it a squeeze and
syrup infusion or garnish, you drop it into the glass, roughly 1 part Jameson to
can present plenty of creative 3 parts ginger ale.
ownership. The long, lightly
carbonated profile makes it
refreshing and drink-able, but don’t
be sloppy, it needs to look clean,
sleek, refined and properly chilled
to justify the price tag.
8 9
G LO B A L T R E N D S A POSTCARD FROM A POSTCARD FROM G LO B A L T R E N D S
POSTCARD Thanks to
FROM
A
affordable travel
and the sharing
of information
through social media, In recent years the true wealth of
innovation has been showcased
cocktail culture is now a through the World Class
Bartender of the Year contest, an
global phenomenon.
almighty gathering of bartending
talent that is highly revered.
As many as 10,000 bar
From Australia to Africa and professionals compete in World
Class over the year, and with so
Aldershot to Accrington, many great minds gathered it offers
an incredible focus for great ideas
new skills and approaches and global spirits practices.
to spirits and cocktails are With so much on offer, we spoke
to some of the countries winners to
emerging in every town learn more about progressive bar
practices and present these
that has a bar. postcards from around the planet
in a bid to inspire your approach to
spirits in your bar.
10 11
G LO B A L T R E N D S A POSTCARD FROM - KENYA A POSTCARD FROM - KENYA G LO B A L T R E N D S
“Having been brought up in a coffee growing
community, I have seen a lot of changes in
coffee farming and also in the lifestyle of
farmers. Coffee is a big trend in cocktails
and as something so close to home, I have
been inspired to come up with a twist on
a classic espresso martini cocktail, which
I designed to showcase my appreciation
and recognition for our hard-working
coffee farmers. The interpretation honours
coffee production methods of years gone
by, as well as more modern styles and
approaches. It has also been created to Ketel One Vodka
highlight the lifestyle of coffee farmers, the
industry is not what it used to be and due to Espresso Martini
increasing pricing pressures and
the short life span of the coffee once it has
been harvested, they now make less profit INGREDIENTS
from their sales. 45ml Ketel one vodka
30ml Homemade coffee liqueur
30ml Sugar cane juice
K E N Y A
30ml Kangundo arabica coffee
Atomized citrus flavours
METHOD
Combine all ingredients in a
mixing glass. Shake with ice
and fine strain into a chilled coupe
glass. Garnish with three coffee
“I spent time with local farmers to try and beans on top.
Coffee cocktails have been on many menus understand the issues they face, then used
for a while now, the espresso martini now an this interaction to inspire a drink. I started
an online funding programme to purchase a
essential addition to every spirits-led bar. coffee pulping machine, which can be used With the espresso martini
by farmers to pulp their coffee, now a ubiquitous modern
But for Patrick Kempinski, Reserve World Class grade it, and store it. This relieves pressure
on the farmers to sell quickly at a low price. classic, it’s great to experiment
Bartender of the Year 2018 for Kenya, the
As coffee is such a big cocktail trend, I with locally sourced coffee, but
ingredient has a very significant connection knew I needed to raise awareness in the those looking to play around
bartending community too, so I started to with the coffee liqueur, try
in that he can source it from down the road. share the story with the Nairobi bartending
network and ask for them to support my
Maraba who teamed up with
As a result, he has been able to showcase fresh
work by buying coffee to use in cocktails a local coffee specialist in
and vivid flavours, and bring a new spin to the directly from farms, to ensure a fair Hampshire (see page 52).
price and help raise further awareness of Or spice it up with Kalhua Chili
idea of an espresso martini. But perhaps more the issue.” Choc, more on page 54.
inspiring is hearing how his work with the drink
�
also encouraged him to go beyond the cocktail and
contribute to the community of coffee makers.
12 13
G LO B A L T R E N D S A POSTCARD FROM - IRELAND A POSTCARD FROM - IRELAND G LO B A L T R E N D S
“Ireland has over 400,000km of hedgerows -
that’s over eight times the length of the Great
Wall of China, bursting with ingredients ripe
for the picking, not to mention the woodlands
↗
and wild and diverse coastline. At Cask, we
base our menus on what Mother Nature has to
offer, designing four menus per year based on
Ireland’s seasonal offerings.
“Foraging and sustainability is a very prominent
trend in Ireland at present. At Cask, we use as
much Irish foraged ingredients or local suppliers
as possible to keep transport to a minimum and
support our local economy. This is as simple as
finding alternatives to exotic flavours that do not
grow in our unpredictable (rainy) climate.
Four Faced Liar
INGREDIENTS
40ml Ketel One
20ml Carpano Dry Vermouth
I R E L A N D
15ml Aquavit
20ml wood sorrel and
Rosehip cordial*
2 dashes of citrus bitters
(we use Off the Cuffe)
METHOD
Stir ingredients and strain into a
coupe. Garnish with wood sorrel.
“For example, instead of using pineapple juice,
we forage a hardy perennial called pineapple *Rosehip and wood sorrel cordial
weed - a close cousin to chamomile, which 320g water
grows from May to October on any country lane 180g caster sugar
or hard ground. Another ingredient is sweet 30g wood sorrel
woodruff - a wild herb that when dried smells 15g rosehips
and tastes of a green grassy vanilla - a much 2g malic acid
more economical option than buying vanilla
from Madagascar! Method
In recent years the Irish cocktail scene has progressed Combine all ingredients in a vac
“We’re not saving the world, but doing our bit to bag and cook sousvide for one
dramatically. This year the country was represented by support local whilst still delivering World-class hour at 61.5 degrees Celcius.
Diageo Reserve Ireland; World Class Bartender of the Year drinks and service, spotlighting Irish ingredients.” Chill, strain and bottle.
2018, Carl Dalton, from Cask bar in Cork. The bar is an
exceptional example of how to keep things fresh with your
menu, and in a very literal sense. They change the menu
up every 12 weeks using local suppliers while also
foraging for new, seasonal ingredients.
14 15
G LO B A L T R E N D S A POSTCARD FROM - TURKEY A POSTCARD FROM - TURKEY G LO B A L T R E N D S
“Scotch highballs are the rising trend in Istanbul.
Both bartenders and guests increasingly want to
cherish the complexity and versatility of Scotch
whiskies and combining flavours in this serve
style enables us to offer great diversity.
“Personally, I love highballs and like to
experiment by mixing them with traditional
Turkish sodas, which we call Gazoz. In Turkey
there are over 150 local Gazoz brands which
of course offer a lot of flavour varieties to
get creative with; so for me, and for a lot of
bartenders in Instanbul, it’s a highball paradise.”
Gökha Kuşoğlu’s
Taurus Highball
INGREDIENTS
T U R K E Y
60ml Johnnie Walker Black Label
20ml Buffalo Clotted Cream Fat
Washed Dry Vermouth
4 dashes Bittered Sling Malagasy
Chocolate bitters
65-70ml Bor Coconut Gazoz
METHOD
Build-up
When approaching Gökhan Kuşoğlu, the Diageo Reserve
Fat Washed Dry Vermouth
Turkey; World Class Bartender of the Year 2018, we were rather 300g Buffalo Clotted Cream
melted using the bain marie
unoriginally expecting talk of local ingredients and spice trails. As it method. Then mix with 700ml Dry
Vermouth. Rest it for 24 hours, then
turns out, the key spirit trend in the leading Turkish bars right now strain it through a paper or coffee
filter until clear.
is whisky. Gokhan works at Lucca, a cutting edge café bar in the
middle of Istanbul’s fashionable Bebek, and it attracts a diverse and
discerning crowd, so perhaps it’s not that surprising to hear how
whisky is in demand. Even so, his cocktail methods and approach to
whisky are evidence that similar trends are now emerging all around
the bar. Whisky is very much a spirit to mix with if you’re a creative
bartender, and long gone are the days where you can only serve it neat.
16 17
G LO B A L T R E N D S A POSTCARD FROM - UNITED KINGDOM A POSTCARD FROM - UNITED KINGDOM G LO B A L T R E N D S
While a lot of global credit often goes to the UK
capital, it’s clear that trends are being set in regions all
over Great Britain. Daniel Warren cut his teeth in the
Midlands for example, having established himself at “Working in the UK, and particularly between
London and Nottingham, I have the benefit of
the Last Chance Saloon, a bar with a strong whisky being exposed to a melting pot of cultures and
allegiance in Nottingham. Granted he now works at the styles of both food and drink. Couple that with
the World Class global finals this year in Berlin,
Savoy’s American bar, but he was inspired to mix and suddenly I get to be at the forefront of both
current and future trends in bars and bartending,
drinks from outside the city. So, to be named seeing styles, influences and concepts from 56
different countries. Something that I have seen
Diageo Reserve; GB World Class Bartender of the first-hand, and that I have incorporated into my
Year 2018, and for him to reach the final stages and own bartending style, is using ingredients that
represent where you come from. This can be
come second over the entire competition, proves expressed in a few different ways and I guess
the easiest way to describe it is by using fresh,
the great ideas in drinks can come from anywhere. seasonal ingredients that can be sourced locally,
that represent both you as a bartender and your
Milk & Honey
city and country. A good example of this is a
cocktail that I prepared for World Class, called INGREDIENTS
Milk and Honey. 50ml Johnnie Walker Black Label
20ml cream and honey cordial
U K
“For this drink I made a cordial with clarified 75ml ‘cream’ soda
split milk, a local honey, shortbread (a great
representative of British flavour) and a touch
of salt. To this I mixed Johnnie Walker Black METHOD
Label and a homemade milk soda (to replicate Build all ingredients in a highball
the sweet, vanilla taste of cream soda that I over a clear column of ice
used to enjoy when I was a kid) by distilling and containing a single piece of barley.
carbonating milk. Garnish with a toy cow and serve
on a discarded milk coaster.
“Another important trend for 2019 is
sustainability, so to really push this idea
I re-used the split milk (curds) from my cordial
and rolled them out and dehydrated them to
create solid milk coasters - they are completely
natural, and with the texture of plastic and are
completely reusable.”
18 19
G LO B A L T R E N D S A POSTCARD FROM - USA A POSTCARD FROM - USA G LO B A L T R E N D S
“One trend that I’ve been excited about for a
while and am thrilled to see more of my guests
getting on board with is incorporating low-waste
and eco-friendly ingredients into cocktails. At
my bar, Queen’s Park, we focus on well-made
classic cocktails and will often use “waste” or
leftover ingredients in our cocktails. These
cocktails taste good and do good – each
cocktail sold reduces our environmental impact
and, as an added bonus, increases my profits by
increasing my ingredient yield.
“An easy way to start incorporating low-waste
ingredients into your cocktails is by cutting your
lemon juice with lemon stock. I make lemon
stock by broiling juiced lemon husks, reducing
Present Perfect
the liquid, and adding sugar & powdered acid.
I then combine equal parts lemon stock and INGREDIENTS
lemon juice to make our house lemon mix – 45ml Bulleit 10 Year Bourbon
this reduces the amount of lemons that we go 15ml Varnelli Punsch
U S A
through by 50% and it’s almost impossible to tell 15ml honey syrup
it apart from pure lemon juice. 15ml house lemon mix
2 dashes Dr. Adam Elmegirab’s
“Because we’re a classics bar, I like to cut this Teapot Bitters
into one of my favorite classic cocktails that
uses lemon juice: a whiskey sour. In my Present Honey syrup
Perfect, the rich butterscotch, toffee, and dried Combine equal parts by volume
citrus notes in Bulleit 10 Year Bourbon pair honey and water over heat; mix
perfectly with Varnelli Punsch, honey syrup, well until combined. Let cool;
teapot bitters, and house lemon mix.” refrigerate.
Ever since cocktail culture emerged in America,
House lemon mix (adapted from
many of us have looked there for inspiration. Trash Tiki):
Arrange 1 kg lemon husks on a
New York has long been the harbinger of essential baking sheet peel-side down; put in
↗
an oven on high broil for 5 minutes
or until evenly blackened on top
innovation, so no surprise that The Reserve
Combine husks with 1.5L of water in
USA World Class Bartender of the a large pot; bring to a boil and hold
for 5 minutes
Year 2018, Laura Newman, hails from
Remove husks with tongs,
Brooklyn. But Laura now runs the Queens Park bar in squeezing excess liquid out of
husks as you remove them.
Birmingham Alabama, proving the thirst for cocktail culture Reduce liquid until the total volume
is 650 ml
in America needs satisfying right across the continent.
Add 55g sugar, 40g citric acid, 30g
malic acid, and 20g tartaric acid;
stir until dissolved
Combine equal parts stock and
20 lemon juice; refrigerate. 21G LO B A L T R E N D S A POSTCARD FROM - AUSTRALIA A POSTCARD FROM - AUSTRALIA G LO B A L T R E N D S
Orlando Marzo of Melbourne’s Lûmé bar beat
10,000 bartenders to become Diageo Reserve
Australia and Global World Class Bartender
of the Year 2018. And that’s a lot of bartenders.
So, if he managed to impress the army of
Down to
super star judges with his own creation, we
suspect he knows a thing or two about using spirits.
the Orchards
Melbourne has long been a cocktail hub for INGREDIENTS
40ml Johnnie Walker Black Label
Australia and the recognition the 15ml Anise Myrtle Verjus
25ml Clear apple juice
bars there earn in industry awards, 110ml Carbonated Orchard Wine
at home and abroad, further enhances the (pear laced late
harvest Riesling)
city’s claim to be a trend-setter in world drinks.
METHOD
Here Orlando returns us to whisky, further Build, garnished with Anise Myrtle
evidence that the spirit is driving cocktail innovation. laced Corella pear
A U S T R A L I A
“It’s rewarding to see that customers are
increasingly appreciating the presence of
dark spirits in cocktails, particularly Scotch
whisky. This is something we’re also seeing When looking at classics,
in the warmer months of the year, which is
fantastic as it shows that education is paying note that gin features in more
off and customers can recognise and enjoy the recipes than any other spirits in
versatility of Scotch year-round.
the Savoy Cocktail Book. And
“With its rich heritage, Scotch whiskies are if you’re looking for one to tie in
able to offer an array of different flavour varieties
with the Australian theme here,
and styles. These days distilleries are gifting us
with much more contemporary approaches try Four Pillars, a beautifully
by releasing unique and modern expressions. botanically charged gin from
Whether it’s shaken, spritzed or laced with
fruits, Scotch Whisky cocktails are back and in the Yara Valley wine region.
great shape.” Read more about it
on page 48.
22 23G LO B A L T R E N D S JOE SCHOFIELD JOE SCHOFIELD G LO B A L T R E N D S
Spare a thought for the mantelpieces of Not ones to linger solely in the past, Joe and
Manchester. Joe Schofield, one of the world’s Ryan then looked ahead to their “Dreams &
best bartenders, is about to return to his Desires”, widely considered the world’s first ever
home city and open a bar, Schofield’s, with his edible menu delivered via the unusual medium
extremely talented brother Daniel – and he may of Gummy Bears.
well be bringing his impressive collection of
bartending gongs with him. A dozen ursine-based offerings, all delivered in
a classic sweet-shop paper bag, which is itself
It’s almost embarrassing how many industry imbued with a reassuring old-school aroma,
accolades Joe has been awarded over the last each corresponds to a specific cocktail on
few years thanks to his ground-breaking work at the list. These are named after dreams and
the Tippling Club in Singapore. At the Tales of desires such as “Revenge”, “Peace”, “Beauty”,
the Cocktail’s 2017 Spirited Awards, he scooped “Happiness” and “SuperCar” – which features
the title of Best International Restaurant Bar the flavours of petrol, metal, smoke and leather.
whilst also reaching the top ten list of
International Bartender of The Year 2017 and Beyond the Tippling Club, Joe and Ryan have
Top Ten Bar Team of The Year 2018. created Sensorium, a consultancy company
seeking to broaden sensory boundaries of
It turns out, that was a mere aperitif to his contemporary cocktail culture – and they’ve
achievements. Last year, one of the most even launched their own gin called “Sons of
prestigious industry honours one can achieve Tippling”.
was pinned to his chest; International Bartender
of The Year in the Tales of The Cocktail Joe, taking precious time out from giving his
Spirited Awards. gongs a right good polish prior to opening his
new bar in Manchester, spoke to the Thinking
Not content with merely bringing home just that Drinkers about sensory menus, the importance
amount of bartender bling, Joe was also named of aroma, the amygalada (no, neither did we) and
Bartender’s Bartender at The World’s 50 Best rain – which being a Leeds lad, he knows rather
Bars 2018 – making him the only bartender in a lot about.
history to have won both of the awards. You may
kiss his hand.
When creating a new cocktail menu,
A former art student who previously worked at how do you begin the process?
the prestigious American Bar at The Savoy, Joe
rose to prominence on moving to Singapore The cocktail menus at Tippling Club were a very
where, along with the hugely respected challenging and rewarding process. Each one
chef Ryan Clift, and the owner of the highly took over 10 months of development until launch
acclaimed Tippling Club, they curated acutely date. The menus were very conceptual so it was
innovative multisensory menu concepts that important for us to have a clear vision of what we
deftly dovetailed Joe’s drinks-development with wanted as well as a understanding of the need to
Clift’s cutting-edge, avant-garde techniques in evolve our thought processes as we worked.
the kitchen.
First up was an aroma-driven idea that incited What inspired you to first create a
guests to relive some of their precious childhood multi-sensory experience?
memories through the power of scent. Devised
together with Ryan Clift and the sensory- Myself and Chef Ryan have always loved aroma,
focused company “International Flavours & and we understand the importance of this when
Fragrances”, the pioneering menu offered 12 it comes to flavour. It is estimated
unique olfactory drinking experiences that that over 80% of flavour is from aroma through
were designed to provoke reminiscences and a process called retro-nasal olfaction. This is
emotions through aroma and flavour. essentially where aroma molecules from food or
drink are pushed into the nasal cavity.
22 23G LO B A L T R E N D S JOE SCHOFIELD JOE SCHOFIELD G LO B A L T R E N D S
During my first week at Tippling Club, Ryan You launched the world’s first edible menu. Why does aroma evoke such
asked me what I wanted to do with the cocktail Could you tell us what inspired the idea? vivid memories? On all your most famous menus, you have
menu, and it turned out we both had the same worked closely with chef Ryan Clift. Do you
idea. Exploring aroma. From there the project This menu was a natural progression from the This is down to the way the brain works. think there should be more collaboration
developed into being about memory triggers, first. With the previous menu we looked to the Sensory information is carried down the between chefs and bartenders?
and aroma is the best way to do that. past with memory triggers and aroma. Next olfactory nerve located near the amygadala,
we wanted to look to the future with Dreams & the part of the brain that regulates experiences I think there should always be more collaboration
Could you tell us more about the Desires and flavour. relative to memory and emotion. The or cross pollination between industries, working
memory-triggering aroma menu you hippocampus, also near the olfactory nerve with different people opens up a completely
created? Could you give us some examples The menu was also quite nostalgic in design is responsible for associative learning. The different way of thinking. Of course, the chef and
of some of the cocktails - the ingredients and aromatised with the fragrance of an old location of the three parts being so close bartender relationship is quite close and it was a
and the flavours and the memories they are fashioned sweet shop, so there were a couple together, is why aroma triggers memory. very inspirational experience working so closely
designed to evoke? of sensory links to connect the two. At the last with Chef Ryan.
day of service, late November, Tippling Club had
The menu featured 12 unique aromas that produced over 500,000 handmade gummy
myself and Ryan created and developed with bears for the menu.
IFF, there fragrances hadn’t existed before,
we wanted our guests to relive their cherished How did you manage to create the cocktail What is the most memorable sensory Can you tell me a bit more about work you’re
childhood memories whilst they were in the flavours in the gummy bears? cocktail you’ve created? doing and have done with Sensorium?
bar. Tippling Club was always about pushing Sensorium is a consultancy company by
the boundaries, experience, flavour and most Each one of the 12 gummy bears was flavoured I think my favourite drink was from the first Chef Ryan and myself where we explore the
importantly fun, this was a huge part of the with the main ingredients of the cocktail, which menu, Rain. We made a rain distillate using relationship between bartender and chef. We
thought process for the menus. were also flavours synonymous with the dream geosmin, one of the main components which have a number of very exciting projects coming
or desire that it represented. There were goes into Petrichor (also known as the smell of up, watch this space!
Rain Stone staggering amounts of research done on this rain). We made an edible stone spirit, using an
Rain, Citrus, Vodka, Soda part, finding links between flavours and dreams edible clay we found in the plains of West Africa
and desires took a lot of time, but we were very and added a little sugar and citrus to balance. Can we expect sensory menus from your
Campfire Ash happy with the end result. With our direction, This was then finished off with soda and served new venue in Manchester?
Burnt Syrup, Marshmallow Milk, Citrus, Gin IFF provided brand new flavours for the gummy with an edible rain cloud.
bears after numerous tasting sessions. Sorry! I am sworn to secrecy. Watch this space!
Forest Pine Please. Hello? Joe?.......
Sherry, Vermouth, Mezcal
24 25G LO B A L T R E N D S S P I R I T O F S PA I N S P I R I T O F S PA I N G LO B A L T R E N D S
Gin is a global phenomenon and while you
might not commend us for finger-on-the-pulse
skills, we’re here to report it will continue in 2019.
This is never truer than in Madrid, since Spain
has done much to revive the fortunes of this “I think Spain has launched very important
spirt. Born in Argentina, Diego Cabrera has been trends into the world of food and drink, but as a
a formative figure in the Madrid bar scene for country it doesn’t currently get the recognition
over a decade. He is currently behind Salmon it should. It´s a super foodie country, the cuisine
Guru, a bar packed with all manner of cutting is well known throughout the world. The trends
edge concepts, and he knows a thing about from its cuisine play a big part in influencing what Anyone trying to replicate
about trends. we do behind the bar. the sunshine flavours of the
SPIRIT
Mediterranean gin boom, could
incorporate the classic Larios,
launched back in 1932 by the
third marquis, José Aurelio
Larios. Or experiment with
Italian favourite Malfy, using
fresh lemons from the
SPAIN
Amalfi Coast.
OF
“Madrid is a city where both innovative bars and “In the kitchen chefs have created the
traditional bars both perform really well,” says techniques that we use in the bar like molecular,
Diego “People like to try bars that are innovative foam, clarifications, jellies, rotavapor, and
and where they can try new flavours, but they many more. So with gin and all of this I think it’s
also like the classics bars where they can drink a important to understand the techniques created
traditional gin and tonic. in Spain.
“Because as much as gin and
With that in mind it’s perhaps no surprise to hear “The Spanish bartender has given us tonics will sell, in Salmon Guru, the
what the number one spirit is. “Gin!” says Diego, escanciador shaking, the technique to chill most important cocktails are the
with a laugh. “Spain is a Gin paradise. Why? First and aerate the cocktail. Then you have the most creative ones, like our Yellow
this is a warm country, and so people like to traditional Venencia technique - this is a Chilli or Steam Drunk or Chipotle
drink something refreshing. Bartenders in Spain technique to serve sherry, and lots of bartenders cocktails. And as with so many
create a ritual that is easy to drink, and easy to use this for cocktail presentation.” bars around the world, the big trend
replicate at home. We started the gin and tonic for 2019 will be using sustainable,
revolution through creating new tools to make or But as with all the best bar professionals, Diego seasonal and local products. Also
serve the gin and tonic.” isn’t relying on the Spanish to influence all his collaborating with local artisans, to
Perhaps the most eye catching contribution ideas, hailing from Argentina he is keen to create differentiated cocktails.”
to gin has been Spain’s goblet serve, a gin and explore the wider world of drinks.
tonic in a copa da balon, packed with ice, often Gin remains a big story in Spain
seasoned with substantial herbal garnishes to “I love to visit exotic countries and cities that and in bars around the world then,
fit the ever growing collection of Mediterranean are less trodden,” he says. “I have a new project but as ever, the country’s best bars
botanicals in their gins. Having reached where I travel to discover new products and are pushing boundaries all over the
across Europe and to the UK, the serve also different ways to produce beverages. The first place. It’s a country offering plenty
successfully found it’s way to the States and as trip was the Amazon, this year I plan visit the to digest if you’ve got a passion for
the trend of matching gins with flavoured tonics countryside in Korea or China. If you really want food and drink.
gathered pace, it helped change gin menus in to be different you need to search for inspiration
the leading bars around the world. in unusual places.
26 27G LO B A L T R E N D S A DUTCH MASTER A DUTCH MASTER G LO B A L T R E N D S
A DUTCH
Renowned bartender Timo professional and those who visit no less impressive.
Janse reveals how bartenders in either leave their own mark or take Set in the Odeon Building the bar
Amsterdam are enjoying customer something Dutch away with them enjoys classic surroundings and
demands for genever and to adopt in their own bar. the wall of spirits he performs in
mezcal, two intense spirits that front of leaves any drinks geek
suggest the city has plenty of Native Timo Janse who runs the impressed. But as much as things
adventurous drinkers. Flying Dutchman Cocktail bar have changed for Timo since 2011,
with the equally talented Tess and as much as he has continued
Historically, the Dutch have been Posthumus, is proving Amsterdam to innovate, one thing has remained
masters of invention – flowers, still has a knack for quality drinks, constant in his world, the spirit of
footwear, fruity movies. Their centuries after it was the distilling the Netherlands. So, when asked
pioneering endeavour helped make centre of the universe. We met what the most important spirit is in
the world a smaller place in the Timo Janse nearly a decade ago the Netherlands right now, it was
17th century when the Dutch East on a trip to Amsterdam, when a simple, one word answer from
India Company shaped trading he told us: “What I enjoy about Timo: “Genever”.
MASTER
patterns and commerce, and as a cocktails is that they can contain
result, the country has long been any ingredient from anywhere in The irony of all that early Dutch
an international hub, enjoying and the world. Nothing is written in endeavour on the high seas and all
creating trends. stone, and together with the the sharing of Dutch spirits, is that
guest you can create a truly genever is not a mainstream spirit.
The influence is no less significant unique experience.” It deserves to be, but for some,
in the world of spirits trends - the that malty quality is a challenge.
nation gave us gin after all. Or The sentiment stuck, so when we True it has an epic history, but can
genever at least, and certainly it’s looked at European trends, he something so challenging and
fair to suggest the first commercial seemed like a good man to catch traditional remain fresh? Timo
incarnation of juniper spirits hailed up with. Back in 2011, Timo was thinks so, and when he talks about
from the Netherlands. So, it’s fitting keeping bar at the famous Door 74, a spirit on trend in the Netherlands,
the bartenders here still push since then he has gone on to open he is a passionate advocate.
boundaries. Amsterdam is a great his beautiful new bar in the city, and
pilgrimage for any international bar the Flying Dutchman Cocktails is
28 29G LO B A L T R E N D S A DUTCH MASTER A DUTCH MASTER G LO B A L T R E N D S
“The great thing about this spirit
is it is already fresh for most THE
FLYING
people,” Says Timo. “But we try
to approach classic drinks not
usually made with genever. This is METHOD
DUTCHMEN
how you can mix things up with a
spirit, and we are currently doing it
with great success.”
Timo is proving that, whatever
spirit is on trend in a city or bar, Mix all of the gum arabica
a confident and dedicated bar with 65g sugar.
professional can create tasty
beverages. But it’s also telling that Dissolve gum-sugar into
one of the other spirits popular with
bar professionals and customers in
2L of water over heat. Don’t let
Amsterdam right now, is mezcal. it come to a boil. Strain and set
aside. This is your gum
“Mezcal’s star continues to rise,” syrup mix.
says Timo. “Dutch people love
smoky whisky. Then you need to Toast the spices in a large pan.
understand this is Cosmopolitan
city, fast paced, lots of expats and Add 1L water and 130g
international influence, we have of sugar. Dissolve sugar into
great availability of fruits, spices,
spirits, you name it, we can
water over heat. Don’t let it
source it.” come to a boil. This is your
looking at the ingredients around This is obviously an important spiced syrup mix.
And they all do here, because us. Julian Bayuni at Vesper bar for note for anyone exploring trends in
sourcing native and local is also on example, has hyper-locally bartending right now. Whatever you Add the spiced syrup mix to
the agenda in Amsterdam bars. But sourced ingredients: he is on to incorporate into your own bar, it the gum syrup mix.
beyond what’s going into glasses, something there.” still needs to be an original offering,
Timo has also incorporated the
more recent trend of bartenders Follow Timo on Instagram (@timo.
and indeed make sense for your
customers, these are the reasons
INGREDIENTS Heat again and add the final
130g of sugar. Let it dissolve
taking on guest shifts around the janse) and you’ll discover he’s also they return. But the other thing to
world. This has proved a great way launched his own cocktail cherries, take from Timo is that if you use the 45ml Bols Genever Barrel Aged and cool back to room
for bars to generate noise around RecolutionCherry, using Dutch spirits correctly, customers really 30ml lemon juice temperature.
what they’re doing, bringing in some cherries and steeped in an eau de can be enticed by spirits that might 15ml speculaas gum syrup
of the award-winning global star- vie from the locally sourced fruit. otherwise seem challenging. 2 dash gary regan orange bitters, Strain and pour into a
tenders who have a great following Despite his love of local though,
1 dash TBT orange flower water measuring jug. Fill the required
on social media. Timo always looks further afield for Despite all his original ideas and number of squeeze bottles,
inspiration and like the best modern approach to cocktails, the Shake, garnish with an orange zest
label them and store in the bar
“Another trend we expect bar professionals is aware of classics are also crucial for Timo, and edible flower and the grey tray in the
to continue is the bar as an trends elsewhere. so as trends go, this will always be walk-in fridge.
experience, so as well as guest something he returns to. Gum syrup recipe
bartending we host a lot of “These days ideas can come from
13g gum arabica Fill the required number
events here. Then one of the key everywhere, but I look at Shanghai, “We do not focus on new
elements of our bar is keeping our Beirut, Singapore, Saint Petersburg techniques in our bar,” explains 10g cinnamon sticks (broken) of vacuum bags with the
assortment of spirits large and & Hong-Kong at the moment in Timo. “Classic drinks is our thing, 3g cloves required millilitres of syrup
useful. And keeping a close eye on particular. There is a small group of it’s very important.” 1.3g chopped nutmeg (7 pieces) each, label them with syrup
new brands and spirits. bartenders that I follow particularly 1.3g white pepper name in the upper left corner
close, such as Nico de Soto, Remy To prove the point, the bestselling and date in the upper right
1.3g green cardamom
“Low abv drinks are becoming Savage, Moe Aljaff and Aki Wang. cocktail in the bar is the Flying corner. Store in the assigned
more popular, and like many However, it is not in my nature to Dutchmen cocktail. A genever 1.3g fresh ginger (peeled and chopped)
388g sugar grey tray in the freezer.
countries, sustainability remains copy anybody else.” base, classic in principle but with
huge. All bartenders here are a little flourish of innovation. A 3L water
properly Dutch drink.
30 31G LO B A L T R E N D S SIMPLER TIMES SIMPLER TIMES G LO B A L T R E N D S
Every bartender needs to push
the boundaries, but sometimes
it helps to put a check on the “Classics are the canvas for experimentation,”
says Tim. “I’d say up until only very recently they
ambitions of incorporating faddy were the entire basis for anything great that has
been made in the bartending renaissance of the
trends. Australian bartending last 30 years.
legend Tim Philips reminds us how “They should be the pillars that any kind of
one trend worth reinventing is the evolution stand upon. Without a bartender
taking the time to perfect them and understand
practice of the core foundations them you truly cannot master our profession.”
of cocktails: decent spirits and a Tim knows what he’s talking about. He has
devotion to practicing technique. worked in bars all over the world, and while he
doesn’t necessarily hold it as a barometer for
And of course, great ice. his own commitment to the craft, he has been
named ‘Bartender of the Year’ in the UK and
Australia and claimed the World Class Global
Champion in 2012. He now runs the multi-award-
While you might cast a glance at a Cointreau Caviar winning Bulletin place in Sydney, a world famous
Spherification kit and some talented tenders will successfully bar opened in 2012 by three bartenders aiming
explore an approach to acids in drinks, don’t get Tim Phillips to build a home for “all of the things we liked,
started on the foraged-woodruff-distillate-highball he was none of the things we hate”. The bar is famous These seem very simple ambitions and Ginger in the Penicillin). New
served last year. for many reasons, amongst them its menu, for a trend that blends quality with classics are usually spawned by
which changes daily to reflect the produce that practice, but they might need to be. influential bars in bigger cities, Tim Philips suggests
Tim was particularly outspoken about this drink in a piece is looking best on the market. “The day’s menu For Tim, it’s about a return to the by industry stalwarts. This ability these core drinks to perfect.
he wrote for the excellent Australian Bartender magazine, goes up on the butchers roll behind the bar and building blocks of bartending. to be able to connect with many
noting that, and we’re paraphrasing his eloquent rant, some there is no other menu, any classic cocktails are customers and other bartenders LEMONADE
of the style in modern cocktail creation, is coming at the cost available on request or you can put yourself in “Technique is paramount in the causes the drinks contagious To master balance
of substance. their hands for ‘bartender’s choice!’” Very cool. production of successful classic effect. A lot must to go right for
And the success of Bulletin spawned a second cocktails,” he says. “You’re relying everyone to fall in love with your DAIQUIRI
His points were worthy of note because while a spirts bar bar in the lauded Dead Ringer. So Tim knows a on three ingredients usually, as well drink and for it to become a staple To master the shake
wants to attract a customer to any of the ‘on-trend’ eye faddy trend when he sees one. as paying close attention to dilution of the bartender lexicon. and strain
catching ingredients and modern theatrical methods, a drink and temperature. Each of these
will only sell if it tastes good. “I wouldn’t say the classics have been ignored elements can take your drink from “I think something like the Tommy’s MARTINI
just not practiced thoroughly,” says Tim. “Most, wonderful to woeful.” margarita stands out as it’s so To master texture
And it’s worth adding, the customer needs to feel comfortable if not all bartenders will know the recipes for simple. Fewer ingredient drinks
holding said drink, it won’t help if they look daft. When one most classic cocktails. They just skip the bit Once bartenders have these tend to do quite well and become MANHATTAN
of the thinking Drinkers was holding a cocktail that leaked where they drink, sell and make them over and habits built into a bar programme, influential. For me the ultimate The master variation
smoke out of a glass shaped as a pipe the other day, he over and over again. The first time you make it becomes easier to explore and classic is the Dry Gin Martini. It’s in whisk(e)y and wine
looked like a prat, and the cocktail wasn’t as tasty as the a Manhattan is so entirely different to how you innovate. Indeed many leading just perfect. And as for a desert (vermouth)
Negroni the other Thinking Drinker was enjoying. Tim’s views would make it the hundredth time. That’s insane bartenders are shifting to the island drink, coconut water and
chimed with some of our comments on that occasion, so we when you consider it’s a three-ingredient drink. presentation of simpler ideas to Caol Ila - it’s a time and place thing BLOODY MARY
picked it up with him. customers, even if some of the more than anything.” It’s as close to cooking as
“It would be a sad time if I ever walked in to a ingredients in new cocktails are any drink gets. Sweet, Sour,
Tim takes a lot of his frustration back to the tendency among craft cocktail bar and the bartender could not bespoke and complex. Even so, There we are then, in a magazine Salty, Strong and Spice
some bartenders to ignore some of the basic principles that make me a Sazerac. They are a nod to our Tim doesn’t believe creating a new devoted to trends, it’s interesting
make drinks tasty – great spirits, great ice, cold glassware, profession’s rich history. As bartenders I feel we classic is easy. to see one of the most important
careful dilution of drinks, technique and understanding of should be custodians to the trailblazers before bartenders in the world still values
balance. They are principles that can be learned and honed us. It’s disrespectful to our profession if classic “A ‘new classic’ is usually made a dry martini so highly. Evidence
by being sure you understand the classic cocktails. cocktail making either gets lost or is moved by utilizing a readily available that, no matter how much we
to being solely batched or pre-bottled like the ingredient that may not of had a get wrapped in the new, one of
majority of drinks today. There’s an art in the lot of love in drinks (See Coffee the most important trends is still
production of these drinks.” in the Pharmaceutical Stimulant getting the classics right.
32 33G LO B A L T R E N D S RISING SUN RISING SUN G LO B A L T R E N D S
R I S I N G
There’s a video of Hiroyasu Kayama of Ben
S U N
Fiddich on Youtube, making a Hot Buttered
Chartreuse drink. It’s mesmerising, seek it
out. One of the most incredible aspects of the
performance is the detail. On the surface the
drink seems relatively simple in construction,
yet every step of the process is painstakingly
measured, timings are efficient but very
deliberate and not rushed, right down to the
cleaning of his spoon after each ingredient is
added.
Like many of his peers in Japan, Kayama
takes this performance seriously, bartending is
highly revered in the country, and if there had
Japan is famous for its whisky to be a trend to associate with Japanese bar
professionals, then commitment to flawless
technique would be in contention. And the hard
and increasingly it’s gin, shake. And possibly the re-imagining of ice, right
down to putting it into drinks served straight up.
but in Tokyo, the emerging But going back to that Hot Buttered
Chartreuse drink, I’m afraid while the build
bartending talent that is looks straightforward, the ingredients won’t be.
Kayama’s drinks are far from simple. Natural
maybe, foraged and simple in the sense that
H I R O YA S U K AYA M A his ideas come from the earth, but gathered
and delivered in drinks by someone with years
has proved a wider of experience, with a pioneering approach to
his craft.
understanding of natural science “I own a farm,” says Kayama. “I take a lot
of inspiration from the ingredients and the
sets him apart. Added to which,
environment of the farm. In terms of key spirit
trends in Japan at the moment, we look to
Japanese whisky of course, and increasingly
the most popular Japanese gin. The most popular spirits in my bar
right now are gin but also absinthe.
spirit in his renowned Ben “One of the most important trends in bartending
here now is working on the botanical cocktail.
Fiddich bar, is absinthe.
So, I am considering all the herbs and spices that
can make the drinks different.”
34 35G LO B A L T R E N D S RISING SUN RISING SUN G LO B A L T R E N D S
Kayama’s offering could seem vintage. He is
rooted in the antiquity of his profession, it drew
him to a role behind the bar, and his obsession for
natural botanicals is arguably an approach that is
“I love
historic rather than cutting edge – even his white
jacket-ed attire lends itself to another era. But his
understanding of ingredients is advanced thanks to
nature”
modern studies.
“It was my affection for the history of drinks that
brought me to bartending,” he says. “I especially like
vintage bottles. Vintage bottles can communicate
this history. But when I serve a customer I always
think of a new drink. It is a small bar and I have no “I’d like to make Ben Fiddich last 20, 30 or 40
menu, I ask what the customer likes and make it.” years. And I plan to be working at the counter.
That is important to me”.
That is to say, he’s making them up on the
spot, there are no recipes to share here and as The trends you can take from Kayama then are
remarkable as this sounds, it’s how he works. The these: Japanese whisky continues to earn a
small space is a botanical apothecary, infusions place, make sure you have it in the bar, we are
cramming shelves like potions, natural herbs, way beyond the time when this is seen as an
roots and spices surrounding Kayama. These are oddity. Japanese gin, like whisky, is made with
selected according to the drinks the customer precision and passion and is fast becoming an
suggests, and Kayama works on the spot to create asset in the collection. Foraging is a global trend,
the flavours. see what you can source around you to bring
some local flavour to your bar. But above all, try
This deep understanding of natural science helps to be unique. Kayama presents an experience in
him create his bespoke spirits, including his own his bar that can’t be replicated, he has made his
amaros that can compete with anything you’ll buy. performance a talking point, his ingredients are
It’s a lot of focus on the natural and botanical, but thought provoking and his drinks are tasty, so
as he points out, this is what is on trend in Tokyo people are now queuing to see him. There isn’t a
right now, and since the practice of using natural bar on the planet that wouldn’t enjoy that.
ingredients in spirits is centuries old, it’s probably not
going to go out of fashion any time soon.
“I love nature and one of the important elements
of the ingredients is they have to be fresh. But
like other bartenders here, I value things like the
temperature of my ice, and the customer. Whether
my role is to perform depends on the customer in
front of me and my role as a bartender is as much
For a simple serve
about making sure the customer is comfortable.” to raise a toast to
The experience at Ben Fiddich is unique, which is
the extraordinary
just as well, because to transplant the bar and its exploits of Japanese
ethos anywhere else, you’d need Kayama in tow. But
for all his creativity, his ambition for his bar is
bartenders, try Toki,
simple enough. as featured on page
63 and follow our
guide to the highball
to use it in a stunning
mizuwari.
36 37You can also read
