The Masahiko Iga Sake Experience with Special Japanese Cuisine by Akio Soga -
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NOVEMBER 2010
The Masahiko Iga Sake Experience
with Special Japanese Cuisine by
Akio Soga
酒
HANABISHI Japanese Restaurant, 187 King Street Melbourne VIC 3000 AustraliaThank you for joining us for our sake dinner tonight.
I'm so glad to have such well respected industry
INDEX leaders here at Hanabishi.
As background to this evening, I visited Japan and
joined a first-ranked
first sake brewer to learn more about
the sake making process.
pro It was a fantastic experience
and I learned many secret tips for the making of
quality sake. The staffs at the brewery were very
generous with me and kindly understood my passion
for introducing real Japanese culture to Australia.
It is a great pleasure
p to share my sake experience and
some exceptionally rare and high quality sakes with
you. I do not want to say that these premium sake
Today's Menu ...................................
..................................................03 will always have the best taste but I would like to
show you these sakes because I think it's good to see
Today's Sake ................................
...................................................04
what theth currently top rated sake in Japan look like.
Let’s call it professional curiosity.
Sake Ingredients .............................
.............................................05
I have only included the very basic information about
Sake Grades ....................................................06
Sake in this booklet. Please feel free to ask me
questions for more details of Sake making anytime in
Step 1: Rice Milling ...........................
..........................................07
this dinner
dinne or indeed at anytime in the future.
Step 2: Washing & Steaming ...........
..........................08
Thanks to Akio our owner chef, I can match these top
Step 3: Koji
Koji-mai Making .................................09 ranking sake with food because Akio's Japanese food
is also real. I believe this is a great opportunity to
Step 4: Fermentation .......................
.......................................10 show you a great Japanese dining experience.
Step 5: Pressing .................................
...............................................11 I hope you enjoy our fantastic Japanese food & Sake
dinner. Your success and contribution to our industry
Step 6: Pasteurize, Bottling and Aging …
….........12 always
ays encourage me. In the same way I hope that my
efforts tonight encourage you. Thank you very much,
Special Thanks ..................................
................................................13 everyone. All the best to you.
Masahiko Iga
General Manager,
Manager HANABISHI
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 2Today's Menu Aperitifs - Blind Tasting
Japanese Style Pure Corn Soup 白川郷 ささにごり酒
ささにごり酒 Shirakawago "Sasanigori"
No sugar or any amount of cream is added. Richness and sweetness purely come from corn itself.
純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Traditional Tasting Plate 梵 超吟 Born "Chogin"
A selection of Japanese appetizers
純米大吟醸 Jyunmai-Daiginjo
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Sashimi on Ice - Chef's best selection 根知 2007 Nechi
Exquisite fresh raw fish, selected by our specialists 純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Sugi-
Sugi-ita Yaki 大七 箕輪門 Daishichi "Minowamon"
Oven Grilled Patagonian Tooth Fish wrapped in aromatic cedar wood
純米大吟醸 Jyunmai-Daiginjo
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Barramundi Shiogama-
Shiogama-yaki 十四代 七垂二十貫 Juyondai "Shichitare Nijitkan"
Fresh water Barramundi with Yuzu citrus cooked in salt kiln
純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Wagyu Beef Japanese Style Steak Koshinohana "Kouen" 越の華 好縁 甕酒
Finest Wagyu selected by owner chef, official quality rating of 9+ marble score 純米大吟醸 Jyunmai-Daiginjo
……………………………………………………………………………………………………
Rice, Miso Soup and Pickles
大七 純米きもと
純米きもと
Daishichi "Jyunmai Kimoto"
Shiny beautiful rice from Japan. Aka-dashi miso soup made from mixed miso of our Selection.
Good foods with Rice, Miso, Pickles & warm Sake. This is proper and most peaceful meal style of Japan. 純米酒 Jyunmai-Shu
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Dessert Platter - Hanabishi Deluxe Hanahato "Shiori" Aged 8 years 華鳩 醞 貴醸酒
Assortment of 100% pure homemade desserts 純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo
Fresh ice creams and sorbets made with the latest technology “Pacojet”
Owner Chef, Akio Soga
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 3Today's Sake
Dassai Dassai Dassai Born "Chogin"
"Niwarisanbu" "Sanwarikyubu" "50" 梵 超吟
獺祭 獺祭 獺祭 純米大吟醸
磨き二割三分 磨き三割九分 50 Class: Junmai-Daiginjo
純米大吟醸 純米大吟醸 純米大吟醸 Rice polish rate: 21%
Origin: Fukui
Class: Junmai-Daiginjo Class: Junmai-Daiginjo Class: Junmai-Daiginjo Rice: Yamada-Nishiki (Hyogo
Rice polish rate: 23% Rice polish rate: 39% Rice polish rate: 50% A-Rank)
Origin: Yamaguchi Origin: Yamaguchi Origin: Yamaguchi 16% Alc/Vol
Rice: Yamada-Nishiki Rice: Yamada-Nishiki Rice: Yamada-Nishiki Acidity: 1.7
16-17% Alc/Vol 16-17% Alc/Vol 16% Alc/Vol Nihonshudo: +2
Acidity: 1.1 Acidity: 1.3 Acidity: 1.1 Yeast: KATO9 (Brewery's
Nihonshudo: +5 Nihonshudo: +5 Nihonshudo: +5 original own)
Juyondai Daishichi Daishichi
"Shichitare "Minowamon" "Jyunmai Kimoto"
Nijitkan" 大七 箕輪門 大七 純米きもと
十四代 七垂二十貫 純米大吟醸 純米酒
純米大吟醸 Class: Junmai-Daiginjo
Rice polish rate: 50%
Class: Junmai-Shu
Rice polish rate: 65%
Class: Junmai-Daiginjo
Origin: Fukushima Origin: Fukushima
Rice polish rate: 40%
Rice: Yamada-Nishiki Rice: Gohyakumangoku
Origin: Yamagata
15% Alc/Vol 15% Alc/Vol
Rice: Aiyama
Acidity: 1.4 Acidity: 1.5
16% Alc/Vol
Nihonshudo: +2 Nihonshudo: +2
Water: Sakura Shimizu
Yeast: Brewery's original own Yeast: Brewery's original own
Koshinohana “Kouen”
Hanahato "Shiori" Kamezake
Nechi 2007 Aged 8 years Shirakawago 越の華 好縁(甕酒)
根知 華鳩 しおり 貴醸酒 "Sasanigori" 純米大吟醸
純米吟醸 純米酒 白川郷 Class: Junmai-Daiginjo
Class: Junmai-Ginjo Class: Junmai-Shu ささにごり酒 Rice polish rate: 50%
純米吟醸
Rice polish rate: 55% Rice polish rate: 65% Origin: Niigata
Origin: Niigata Origin: Hiroshima Rice: Yamada Nishiki
Rice: Gohyakumangoku Ittou Rice: Nakateshinsenbon Class: Junmai-Ginjo Water: Katsurashimizu
16.5% Alc/Vol 16.8% Alc/Vol Rice polish rate: 60% 14.2% Alc/Vol
Acidity: 1.6 Acidity: 3.5 Origin: Gifu Acidity: 1.7
Amino Acidity: 1.0 Amino Acidity: 3.0 Rice: Gohyakumangoku Amino Acidity: 1.5
Nihonshudo: +3 Nihonshudo: -44 15.3% Alc/Vol Nihonshudo: +0
Yeast: G9 (Niigata Jozoshikenjyou) Yeast: Kyokai9 Acidity: 1.2 Yeast: Brewery's original own
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 4Sake Ingredients
Water
Pure water is a very important ingredient in Sake making.
Nada and Fushimi have clean water and are traditionaly
well known. Nada creates a dry style Sake with acidity
(called Otoko-sake) while Fushimi makes softer clearer
tasting Sake with fragrance (Onna-sake). Water hardness
Born "Chogin"
is one of the reasons why Sake can be so diffrent. Sake
yeast works diffrently depending on the amount of
梵 超吟
Junmai-Daiginjo
mineral in the water. Iron is an especially unsuitable
This sake is made from best
element for producing good sake. ranked sake rice.
The rice farm certified as
A-rank (it's the equivalent of a
Grand Cru vineyard).
Small & Slim Large & Round
More than 300 Less Fat & Protein
Table Sake
kinds 100 appointed
Rice Koshihikari Rice Yamadanishiki
Rice Sasanishiki
Akita Komachi
Gohyakumangoku
Miyamanishiki
Large grained rice which contains a large size clouded
white colour part in the centre is good for sake making
because it allows the koji mould (Aspergillus oryzae) to
兵庫県特 A 地区
“A-rank” rice
penetrate the rice and also is more soluble making the
field in Hyogo
yeasts job easier.
(Yamadanishiki)
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 5Sake Grades
Special Designation Sake Normal
The rice is milled
Sake
down to at least Jyunmai-Daiginjo
Daiginjo
50%
純米大吟醸酒
大吟醸酒
Jyunmai-Ginjo
The rice is milled 純米吟醸酒 Ginjo
down to at least 70% of total
吟醸酒
sake
60% Tokubetsu-Jyunmai
特別純米酒 Tokubetsu-Honjyozo productions
特別本醸造酒
The rice is milled
down to at least Honjyozo
70%
本醸造酒
Jyunmai
Other 純米酒
Futsu-
Shu
Rice + Water + Yeast + Mould Rice + Water + Yeast + Mould 普通酒
+ No Additives + Distilled alcohol (less than 10% of
rice weight)
10% of total sake productions
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 6Step 1: Rice Milling
Mineral, protein and fat are good food for yeast
upto a point. When yeast get too much nutriment,
they make unwanted taste and smell in Sake. As
with wine production, yeast sometimes need
some stress to make fragrance and elegance.
Well polished rice makes cleaner tasting Sake.
Traditionally Japanese dishes are very delicate
with great importance placed on the freshness
and quality of the ingredients. Pure sake really lift
up Umami in such delicate dishes as well.
Answer for the blind tasting
Japanese often use Sake for cooking to enhance
Umami and reduce unwanted smell. (I will explain
1 2 3
how you can choose Sake for cooking.)
Nowadays serious sake maker using the latest
technology can polish rice to over 20%. It takes
more than 100 hours, because rice will be
damaged if there is too much frictional heat.
Quality rice is soft making it difficulty to polish
without cracking. Polished rice should be rested
for at least 1 month to get back right natural Dassai Dassai Dassai
moisture slowly. "Niwarisanbu" "Sanwarikubu" "50"
The milled powder produced as a by-product of The rice is milled The rice is milled The rice is milled
the polishing process is used in many products.
For example this can be used for quality Japanese
down to 23% down to 39% down to 50%
rice crackers.
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 7Step 2: Washing & Steaming
Polished rice can quickly absorb water, so washing and soaking must be handled very carefully. Timing is essential as only a
few seconds makes significant differences. Dassai Brewery uses more than 762000kg of rice a year. They still wash and
care for the rice by hand because the condition of the rice varies depending on season, weather, quality and polished rate
etc... machines cannot handle such detailed caring.
By steaming the rice you control how the rice will be melt in Moromi (liquid, rice and yeast in fermenting process). If the rice
melts too quickly in the Moromi, it will not be good Sake. Hard outside and soft inside is the best steamed sake rice.
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 8Step 3: Koji-mai Making
One of the most important processes in sake making is growing Koji mould
on the rice. Koji mould creates many kind of enzymes. These enzymes
change starch to glucose. This process significantly affect sake quality and
how much umami and amino acid Sake can contain.
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 9Step 4: Fermentation Yeast live comfortably if it's warm and they will only
produce alcohol from glucose, not fragrance or
Umami.
Toji (Sake master) always look after moromi,
temperature control is especially important.
Traditionally sake making was in winter, but now
with the assistance of refrigeration many breweries
do all season sake making.
Fermentation normally takes about a month.
Daishichi
"Minowamon"
大七 箕輪門
Junmai-Daiginjo
This brewery follows very
traditional style to make
shubo (foundation of
moromi). Not adding lacto-acid
but naturally grows them.
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 10Step 5: Pressing
After the fermentation finishes, Sake is still white and cloudy with lots of suspended sediment.
Yabuta "pressing Machine" is commonly used for making Sake clear by pressing.
Yabuta Method
Shirakawago
"Sasanigori"
Unfiltered sake
Centrifuge Method
A centrifuge machine used for
Juyondai
separating completed sake from "Shichitare Nijitkan"
the lees.
Not pressing moromi by
machine. Put Moromi into
coarse cloth bag and hang it.
Sake will slowly drop then only
these drops are bottled.
It is called "Tobindori".
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 11Step 6: Pasteurize, Bottling
and Aging
Traditionally pasteurization was done in early April by heating up. Now technology allows
makers to pasteurize sake in its bottle. This allows the sake to retain all its important
components in the bottle.
Juyondai
"Shichitare Nijitkan"
This is un-pasteurized sake. It's
called “Nama-sake".
Hanahato
"Shiori"
Most sake should be drunk
when fresh. This sake is made
for cellar development and is
aged more than 8 years.
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 12Edited by Masahiko Iga
Special thanks to:
Certified Kiki-sake-shi (Sake Sommelier)
Certified Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers)
Sommelier Australia Certified Japanese Chef
www.sommeliers.com.au Postal address: GPO Box 1125,
Melbourne VIC 3001 Australia
Asahi Shuzo (Dassai)
Email: winefoodaustralia@gmail.com
www.asahishuzo.ne.jp
Katoukichibee Shouten (Born)
www.born.co.jp
Daishichi Sake Brewery (Daishichi)
www.daishichi.com
Japan Prestige Sake Association
www.meimonshu.jp
Evan Milne
Susannah Lavery
Laurence Mahony
Kunihiro Kizu
Daigo Arae
Thank you.
187 king Street Melbourne VIC 3000 Australia
www.hanabishi.com.au
Copyright©Masahiko Iga. All right reserved.
hanabishi@iinet.net.au
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THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 13You can also read