The Role of Jacquard Inlaid Digital Analog Knitting Technology based on Bridging Method in Improving the Productivity of Ecological Textile ...
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Ekoloji 28(107): 3071-3077 (2019)
The Role of Jacquard Inlaid Digital Analog Knitting
Technology based on Bridging Method in Improving the
Productivity of Ecological Textile Enterprises
Yuanfei Xing 1*
1
Xi’an Jiaotong University, Xi’an, 710049, CHINA
Abstract
With the continuous progress of science and technology, computer technology has long replaced manual
knitting technology. In addition to the use of valuable cheongsam handmade products such as Su embroidery
and Shu embroidery, no matter large-scale textile enterprises or small-scale workshop-style textile
enterprises have basically not used manual textile embroidery technology. The application of computer
technology in the compilation industry is the inevitable result of social progress and division of labor, which
greatly improves social productivity. Especially for some workshop-type ecological textile enterprises, it is
urgent and important to use computer technology to improve production capacity. Jacquard inlay can be
divided into mesh inlay, dotted line inlay and cylinder inlay according to the difference of bottom needle coil
at bridge junction, and there are structural inlay types according to the situation of turn-over needle and
wrench needle of coil at bridge junction.
Keywords: bridge, jacquard, inlay, computerized flat knitting machine
Xing Y (2019) The Role of Jacquard Inlaid Digital Analog Knitting Technology based on Bridging Method
in Improving the Productivity of Ecological Textile Enterprises. Ekoloji 28(107): 3071-3077.
THE CORE WEAVING METHOD OF appear in the same area, in order to maintain the overall
JACQUARD INLAY-BRIDGING harmony and uniformity of thickness, we usually do not
Jacquard inlay is the color knitting area set when use thick cylinder jacquard to bridge, but use thin mesh
guiding yarn knitting. That is to say, jacquard knitting is jacquard to bridge, that is, the common type of jacquard
the place where the bridge crosses, and the two sides and jacquard is mesh jacquard bridging, in which mesh
the jacquard area constitute the inlaid knitting, and the jacquard generally chooses a relatively thin 1 *2 form,
bridge is the core of this kind of jacquard inlaid knitting because 1 *1 relative is chosen. Thickness, and 1 * 3
technology. As shown in Fig. 1, blue, red and purple float is too long.
coils each use an inlaid guide to weave their own color One of the Applicable Conditions-Irregular and
areas, while Beige coils use a guide to weave their own Complex Embedding
color areas. When knitting, the beige yarn guide passes The so-called irregular complex inlay refers to the
through the blue, red and purple areas and knits the complex pattern, which requires too many yarn nozzles
reverse coils on the back needle bed of blue, red and (the number of yarn nozzles can be seen through the
purple. It can also be cylindrical bottom needle, mesh yarn area function) to make knitting difficult or
bottom needle or floating thread. This knitting impossible. As shown in Fig. 2, if inlaying is done in a
technology is called bridging. normal way, a large number of yarn nozzles are
required, as shown in the yarn area view. The leaves
themselves need three yarn mouths and four yarn
mouths for the background color. That is to say, only
the leaf pattern needs seven yarn mouths to complete
the knitting.
Fig. 1. Bridging of jacquard inlay
MESH INLAY
Under the same conditions, jacquard fabric is
usually thicker than inlaid fabric. Therefore, when they
© Foundation Environmental Protection & Research-FEPR Received: 23 Feb 2018 / Accepted: 14 Jul 2018
Xing
Fig. 2. A total of seven yarn nozzles are required for Fig. 4. Process view of needling from one side to two
general mosaic display lines of mesh
Fig. 5. Inlay patterns with repeated colors
The above situation can be solved by bridging the
area with mesh jacquard so as to connect the color
(a) Front Fabric View blocks on both sides of the complex pattern. This is the
knitting method of mesh inlay, commonly known as
patching. The main points of the solution include four
parts: First, when choosing the area of mesh hair
hanging, attention should be paid to the top and bottom
areas, neither more nor less. Secondly, in the jacquard
dialog box, click on the adjustment yarn bridge, and
build a bridge to connect the two sides of the same color
area, that is, through the back knitting to introduce the
yarn and lead it out. If the two sides of the pattern have
different colors, they cannot be bridged. Thirdly, npj
should be set up. That is to say, the single-sided inlaid
codes are 13, and the mesh codes are 12 or 12.3.
Fourthly, it is necessary to set an empty needle from one
(b) Back Fabric View
side to the mesh to start the needle suddenly, as shown
in Fig. 4. Because the transition from unilateral
structure to double-sided structure cannot start needle
from single-sided coil to double-sided coil in the same
process line, otherwise there will be cavity, so it must be
carried out step by step. That is to say, the needle is
usually started in two rows. The first line separates the
needles and the second line starts at the original float
line while the original float line is pulled at the original
float line.
(c) Process View
Applicability II - Inlay with Repeated Colors
Fig. 3. Mesh Inlay View When the knitting pattern is mosaic with fewer color
spacing needles and more repetitions, the number of
yarn nozzles is too large to be knitted on a flat knitting
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The Role of Jacquard Inlaid Digital Analog Knitting Technology based on Bridging Method …
Fig. 6. Number of yarn nozzles without mesh inlay
bridging
Fig. 9. View of mesh inlaid fabrics and back fabrics
consisting of diamonds and forks
Fig. 7. Number of yarn nozzles after setting mesh inlay
Bridge
Fig. 10. Number of yarn nozzles required for general
inlay
DOTTED LINE INLAY
When the knitting pattern is diamond and fork inlay,
Fig. 8. Back fabric view after bridging if regular inlay pattern is adopted, the number of yarn
nozzles is too large. As shown in Fig. 10, a total of nine
machine with limited number of yarn nozzles. yarn nozzles are needed, which results in that the flat
Therefore, mesh mosaic is necessary for bridge knitting, knitting machine with eight yarn nozzles is unable to
as shown in Fig. 7 and Fig. 8. knit, so a bridge structure is also needed. This diamond-
shaped fork pattern can be knitted with mesh inlay
Applicability Part 3: Embroidery of Rhombic bridging, but it is not usually set up in practice. This is
Cross-line Combination because the number of opening needles of the fork is
When the knitting pattern is diamond-shaped and too small. If the knitting of the back fork color is
fork-shaped inlay, if regular inlay is adopted, the artificially increased for mesh inlay bridging, the fabric
number of yarn nozzles is too large, which leads to becomes thicker and the possibility of exposure is
knitting difficulties. Therefore, mesh inlay bridging is increased. Therefore, it is usually set as dotted inlaying,
also used. Generally, fork line, diamond block and as shown in Fig. 11, so as to make the fabric thicker.
unilateral area on both sides are selected, and 1 *1 mesh Inlay pattern is more clear, concise and even in
inlay is made in the middle, as shown in Fig. 9. thickness.
Ekoloji 28(107): 3071-3077 (2019) 3073
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Fig. 12. Back fabric view and process view of non-
knitted fork
CYLINDRICAL INLAY
Fig. 11. Sets the number of yarn nozzles and the back
Sometimes from the design point of view, we need
fabric view after dotted inlay
to use the back of multi-color jacquard as the wearing
There are three main points to be grasped in the surface, and the bridged jacquard inlays are more
specific settings. First, the junction between the fork colorful because of the different areas of the bridging
line and the color block should be set as a non-floral blocks selected. The specific rules are as follows.
connection, as shown in Fig. 12. Because if the adjacent
Law of Back Bridging of Four-color Cylinder
flowers are beaten, the pattern is too broad and easy to
As shown in Fig. 14, when choosing the blue, dark
cause a positive exposure and affect the beauty (as
orange, brown and purple areas as the cylindrical bridge
shown in Fig. 13). Secondly, the float and coil should
jacquard, the reference color blocks of the bridge center
be separately coded. If it is too tight and loose, the fabric
are diamond purple blocks near the red box and
will wrinkle and uneven, so it is generally the same or
rectangular blue blocks, as shown in Fig. 15. The purple
similar length as the body coil, for example, the big body
diamond is used as the bridge center reference color
code is 13.2, the floating line code is 13. Thirdly, Siping
block, and its outer side includes dark orange, blue and
inlay and Siping hairs are generally not good for
brown. Therefore, behind it is a three-color sesame dot
knitting, because the system’s own connection module
cylinder structure (dark orange, blue and brown). The
makes the knitting needle not easy to eat and break
unilateral area of the inlay surface is divided into two
when it starts knitting, so it is necessary to build a new
parts from bottom to top, one is the outermost blue
connection module into Siping inlay and Siping hairs to
rectangular block, and the other is the outermost dark
start knitting prescription.
orange diamond block. The bridge area between the
center reference color block and the outermost end is
also a mosaic. According to the color types included in
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The Role of Jacquard Inlaid Digital Analog Knitting Technology based on Bridging Method …
Fig. 16. Blue, brown and purple cylindrical bridge back
fabric view
and the single side area of the mosaic is the outermost
dark orange block. The bridge area between the center
reference color block and the outermost end is also
inlaid, that is, behind each color block are blue cylinder
structure and dark orange cylinder structure
respectively.
Law of Back Bridging of 4.2 Tricolor Cylinder
Blue, brown and purple cylindrical bridging
As shown in Fig. 16, when choosing the blue, brown
and purple areas as the cylindrical bridge jacquard, the
Fig. 13. Back fabric view and process view of fork reference color blocks of the bridge center are rhombic
knitting
purple, brown and blue blocks respectively. Therefore,
the outer colors of the three color blocks are calculated
separately. For example, the dark orange cylinder
structure is behind the brown side, the dark orange
cylinder structure is behind the blue side, the dark
orange cylinder structure is behind the blue side, and
the dark orange cylinder structure is behind the purple
side, and the dark orange cylinder structure is behind
the purple side. However, when two color blocks are
Fig. 14. View of back fabric of four-color cylinder adjacent to each other, they act as an integral bridge
Bridge center, both of which are cylindrical structures
composed of inlaid unilaterals (dark orange). If one
color block (such as purple) is on both sides of another
color block (such as blue), then the middle color block
(purple) is composed of blue and inlaid unilaterals (dark
orange).
Dark orange, brown and purple cylindrical bridges
As shown in Fig. 17, when dark orange, brown and
purple areas are selected as cylindrical bridging
Fig. 15. View of four-color cylinder bridged fabric
jacquard, the base color blocks of the bridge center are
the outer side of the current color block area, the rhombic purple, brown and dark orange blocks
structure of the jacquard is a cylinder jacquard of the respectively, so the outer colors are calculated separately
included color. The center of the bridge is blue, and the from the three color blocks mentioned above. For
outer side includes dark orange and blue. So the back of example, brown, dark orange and purple are blue on
the bridge is orange-blue sesame dot cylinder structure, both sides, and their respective backs are blue cylinder
Ekoloji 28(107): 3071-3077 (2019) 3075
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Fig. 19. Bridged Alan Embedded Module
Fig. 17. View of dark orange, brown and purple
cylindrical bridge back fabrics
Fig. 18. Back fabric view of two-color cylinder Bridge
structures. However, when the two color blocks are
adjacent to the bridge center, they act as a whole bridge
center, and behind them are cylindrical structures
composed of mosaic unilateral color (blue). If one color
block (e.g. purple) is flanked by another color block (e.g.
dark orange), then behind the middle color block
(purple) is a two-color sesame dot cylinder structure
composed of dark orange and mosaic unilateral color
(blue).
Fig. 20. Bridged polychromatic orchids
Law of Back Bridging of Two-color Cylinder
As shown in Fig. 18, when choosing the brown and (purple) is composed of blue and inlaid unilaterals (dark
purple areas as the cylindrical bridging jacquard, the orange).
reference color blocks of the bridge center are rhombic
purple and brown, respectively. Therefore, the outer
STRUCTURAL INLAY
colors of the two color blocks are calculated separately.
The bridge behind the inlaid flower can be not only
For example, if the brown side is dark orange, its back is
a dotted line, cylinder and other structures, but also an
dark orange cylinder structure; similarly, when the
Alan flower structure, i.e. the action of turning needle
purple side is dark orange, its back is dark orange
and wrenching needle. The bridge mode of inlaid
cylinder structure. However, when two color blocks are
flower can be defined as a module, and then the module
adjacent to each other, they act as an integral bridge
can be applied to the pattern, as shown in Figs. 19 and
center, both of which are cylindrical structures
20. When building a module, attention should be paid
composed of inlaid unilaterals (dark orange). If one
to the position where multiple process lines are inserted
color block (such as purple) is on both sides of another
into the pattern. For example, the reference braiding
color block (such as blue), then the middle color block
line is defined in the module, so that the process line
3076 Ekoloji 28(107): 3071-3077 (2019)
The Role of Jacquard Inlaid Digital Analog Knitting Technology based on Bridging Method …
corresponds to the process line in the pattern. The stop strategic position by the state for deployment. In the
of the guide should also be considered when the field of production, we must implement the concept of
structure of the inlaid connection is organized. The ecological development. Knitting technology is the
better way is to stop the guide at the other edge of the result of technological progress, but it can well analyze
color area when the pin is turned over at the position of social phenomena associated with eco-textile
the color connection. enterprises. Through the introduction of jacquard
inlaid digital analog knitting technology based on
CONCLUSION bridging mode, it can be found that the computer
Sustainable development is the trend of current knitting end has solved the efficiency problem in textile
social development, and the protection of ecological enterprises and played a key role in improving the
environment has been put on a more important productivity of enterprises.
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