True to the spirit of home - Glin Castle

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True to the spirit of home - Glin Castle
True to the spirit of home
                    Glin Castle, Co Limerick
 Numerous generations of one family have added to the beauty
 of Glin Castle and its gardens. Catherine Fitzgerald, its latest
 chatelaine, describes its story and her own plans for its future
                    Photographs by Andrea Jones
True to the spirit of home - Glin Castle
Invitation to conversation: a rustic gazebo
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       terminates one of the meandering paths

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Her father, the 4th Earl of Dunraven,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       travelled widely, collected plants and made
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       two famous gardens in Co Kerry: Garinish
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Island, near Sneem, and Derrynane. The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Chilean plants at Glin would have been avail-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       able since the 1860s, when they were first
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       introduced to Veitch’s nursery in Exeter by
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       the famous planthunter William Lobb. I like
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       to think of Rachael’s plant-mad father advising
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       his newly married daughter on what would
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       do well in the mild, wet conditions at Glin.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Rachael planted the wild, meadowy hill
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       that lies at the heart of the garden with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       bulbs sent by her friends the Dorrien-Smiths
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       of Tresco Abbey in the Isles of Scilly. Every
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       March, it lights up with the pale yellow of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       wild native daffodil, the Lent lily (Narcissus
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       pseudonarcissus Lobularis). With its deli-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       cate, lemon-coloured petals and darker-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       golden trumpet, grey-greenish leaves and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       smaller, daintier habit, it’s much more poetic
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       than so many of its showier relations.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          The story moves on to my grandmother,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Veronica, a painter and horticulturist.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Widowed relatively young, she later married
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       a Canadian and created the Milner Garden,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       a famous garden on Vancouver Island at
Previous pages: Glin Castle, framed by cedar and pine, with the River Shannon beyond. Above: The tranquil beauty of a camellia glade                  architecture and design. He laid out the         the nearby Atlantic shores, keeps the worst     Qualicum, which was gifted to Vancouver

T
                                                                                                                                                      bones of the garden as we know it—build-         of the frosts at bay and, combined with the     Island University (formerly Malaspina
          HE north front of Glin Castle, Co          Glin Castle was built as a grand, neo-           in Gaelic as the Knight of the Women,           ing the nearby walled kitchen garden and         heavy rainfall of some 6ft a year, fosters      University-College). At Glin, she laid out
          Limerick, was built on the shores        Classical house during a golden moment for         added the Gothic crenellations, turrets and     the little Gothic hermitage with brick barrel    a wide range of exotic trees and shrubs.        formal lawns with a central gravel pathway
          of the broad Shannon estuary in          architecture and culture in Ireland, by my         pepper-pot lodges with arrow loops that         vault and pointed, arched windows. This was        The garden tells the tale of a succession     running up to a circular sundial overlooked
          the 1780s. It looks out over a stretch   ancestor the 25th Knight of Glin, John Bate-       ornament the outskirts of the demesne. He       lost for many years under a bank of bram-        of lively, artistic women, each of whom         by a perfectly placed, vase-shaped Persian
of green fields, dotted with grazing black-        man Fitzgerald. He appears in a dashing            was proud of his ancient lineage and roman-     bles and ferns, before being dug out of the      added a layer of ideas and plantings of their   ironwood (Parrotia persica). This wonder-
and-white cows and flocks of visiting long-        Volunteer uniform of scarlet and gold, leaning     tic history—the original Glin Castle held       hillside by my parents in the 1970s.             own. The 1890s saw the arrival of Rachael       ful tree from the slopes of the Elburz moun-
beaked curlews and crested peewits, to the         on a cannon, in his portrait over the hall fire-   out valiantly against the English Crown            The main garden lies behind the house         Wyndham-Quin, my great-grandmother,             tains in northern Iran is always early to
sweep of water beyond. On stormy days, gales       place. However, he soon ran out of money           when it was besieged in 1601 by Elizabethan     and offers a complete contrast to the some-      from nearby Adare Manor. She planted the        come into its bright-emerald mantle of leaves
sweep in and batter the sea wall and the           (a regular occurrence with the Fitzgeralds         forces sailing up the Shannon. It still         what bleak north front. Here, protected by       now huge specimens of Drimys winteri            and the first to show a touch of pink in
stark, bow-fronted façade, but, in clear, calm     of Glin) and the top floor was never finished.     stands: a shattered, ivy-clad ruin beside the   the tall, sheltering walls of the house, lies    and Crinodendron hookerianum from               August—an early hint of summer’s end.
weather, the water is as smooth as glass             Fortunes revived and, in the 1820s, his          River Corbry in the village of Glin.            a softer world, in which plants from Chile and   Chile, the ever-spreading stands of archi-         Veronica divided the formal parterre around
and the patchwork of fields in neighbouring        son, John Fraunceis Fitzgerald, a colourful           John Fraunceis learnt Gaelic, patronised     China flourish within the curtilage of trees     tectural Gunnera and the giant Pinus            the house, with its yew topiary hedge and
Co Clare is lit up in every tiny detail.           character with a fiery temper, known locally       poets and musicians and was interested in       and hedges. The Gulf Stream, which washes        radiata from Monterey in California.            startlingly green lawns, from the wilder ➢

86 Country Life, May 23, 2018                                                                                               www.countrylife.co.uk     www.countrylife.co.uk                                                                                         Country Life, May 23, 2018 87
True to the spirit of home - Glin Castle
The Gothic hermitage, a romantic structure set amid Nature—wild and mysterious

meadowy hill beyond with an elegant, low,        a circle of standing stones—an allusion to
scalloped wall. A little stream bordered in      the many stone circles in Limerick and Clare
fuchsia rushes under the twisted arms of the     —which leads to the Gothic hermitage.
ancient primeval Killarney oaks, all covered     Together, my parents found and restored
with moss and polypody ferns. This contrast      the old paths in the defunct walled garden
of smooth and rough, Nature tamed and            and, with the help of the wonderful Tom
cultivated beside the wild and mysterious,       Wall, their gardener, planted them with
is what makes the composition so effective.      espaliered apples and pears, flower borders,

‘
                                                 herbs and vegetables for the house, such as

   The garden tells the                          artichokes, seakale, asparagus and lovage.
                                                 Tom built rustic wooden temples into the
tale of a succession of                          walls to designs sketched by my father on
                                                 the back of an envelope.
lively, artistic women,                             Today, my mission is to keep this thread

 each of whom added
                                                 going so that the Glin garden can continue

                                      ’
                                                 to be enjoyed. I’m adding to the collection

 ideas of their own                              of ornamental trees and shrubs—the Cornus
                                                 capitata and Myrtus apiculata need no
                                                 encouragement and seed themselves every-
  In the 1970s, my mother breathed new life      where, but I have been introducing new
into the place, continuing the line of topiary   species that chime with what is already
down from the sundial hedge to the giant,        here. There are more euchryphias, which
pointed, standard bay trees in front of the      helpfully flower in August when the garden
house. This has the effect of drawing the        begins to feel heavy and sleepy and needs
eye upwards and onwards. She caught the          a lift. The tall Chilean evergreen Berberis
bulb-planting bug and, each year, planted        valdiviana, which I first saw at Mount
more: cyclamen corms beneath the Pinus           Usher, in Co Wicklow, sparkles in spring
radiata, white crocus beneath the bare           with its flamboyant yellow flowers like
scarlet branches of Acer senkaki and mini        bunches of golden grapes, and there are
narcissi, fritillaries, trilliums, scillas and   lots of new magnolias planted in drifts on
dog’s-tooth violets beneath the giant oak at     the lawn, from the vigorous pale-yellow-       Blaumeise, with its electric blue lacecaps,      Above: The glory of magnolia time. Right: Catherine Fitzgerald with a canine helper
the top of the hill. She added to Veronica’s     flowered Elizabeth to my favourite, Mag-       always draws gasps from visitors and
camellias, which had been taken as cuttings      nolia x loebneri Leonard Messel.               H. paniculata Limelight and Vanilla Fraise       its fronds and will tough it out against the    further exotic touches. I’m planning to get
from neigbouring Tarbert House, with                There are now Chilean flame trees           are in their prime in September and October      skunk cabbage and New Zealand flax.             hold of a Schefflera taiwaniana, which
Camellia Cornish Snow and C. Freedom             (Embothrium coccineum), Stewartias for         when the maples are turning.                        Trachystemon orientalis is a fantastic,      I think would do well after seeing it flourish-
Bell. Handkerchief trees were brought by         their bark and more Japanese maples with         The garden has sticky clay soil and limi-      almost evergreen ground cover. It was brought   ing at Tregrehan in Cornwall.
Lord Rosse from a plant-hunting expedition       coloured foliage to brighten up the dark       ted maintenance, so I encourage ground-          over by Seamus Galvin, the head gardener           We spend all our holidays at Glin, when
to China and magnolias and euchryphias           corners. Hydrangeas are a passion—I par-       covering thugs that will fight their way to      at Garinish, the island paradise garden         my children make dens in the rhododendron
came from Patrick Forde from his nursery         ticularly love the dusty-violet Hydrangea      survival—ferns such as Matteuccia struthi-       made by Lord Dunraven, with the unusual         bushes as we did and are set to work clearing
at Seaforde in Co Down.                          aspera Villosa and H. macrophylla Mme.         opteris spread like wildfire and are terrific    little spreader, dawn poppy Eomecon             brambles by the stream and the sticks left
  My father, the 29th Knight of Glin, who        Emilie Mouilliere, with its lavish white       value, providing wonderful contrast with         chionantha. Giant, palmate-leaved Tetra-        by the winter gales. We’re opening the house
was more interested in the architecture          flowers blotched with raspberry that help-     their fresh-green, ostrich plumes each spring.   panax papyrifer Rex, the ricepaper plant,       and garden again for groups this summer
of gardens than plants, laid out a vista         fully come out extra early, illuminating the   Chilean hard fern Blechnum chilense has          is doing well and the biennial Echium           and the house is available for rent.
and winding woodland walks and created           shadowy edges of the garden. H. macrophylla    a fascinating, prehistoric leathery look to      pininana from the Canary Islands adds           For more details, visit www.glin-castle.com

88 Country Life, May 23, 2018                                                                                         www.countrylife.co.uk      www.countrylife.co.uk                                                                             Country Life, May 23, 2018 89
True to the spirit of home - Glin Castle True to the spirit of home - Glin Castle True to the spirit of home - Glin Castle
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