CARPEAUX FARM to (very cool) - D-DAY
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THE BEST OF CULTURE,
TR AVEL & ART DE V IVRE
Spring 2014
Bad-Boy Artist
Jean-Baptiste
CARPEAUX
FARM
to (very cool)
TABLES
Remembering
D-DAY
$5.95 U.S. / $6.95 Canada / francemagazine.org
Cédric Naudon Jaime Hayon’s
at Ferme du Bec sketch for
Hellouin, one of Le Sergent
the suppliers to Recruteur,
La Jeune Rue. Cédric Naudon’s
first restaurant.
Maverick
financier Cédric
Naudon has
hired some
two dozen
international
design stars
to dream up
imaginative
interiors for new
shops along a
few tired Paris
streets. Called
La Jeune Rue,
the concept
focuses largely
on food.
Naudon’s
novel ambition:
to give the
neighborhood
multicultural
style creds while
encouraging
better
agricultural
practices.
By
Amy Serafin
Farm to
46 F R A NCE • S P R I NG 2 0 1 4
( very cool ( tables
All the food sold on La Jeune Rue will be
raised or grown using sustainable methods.
From left: Greens from Ferme du Bec Hellouin, in
Normandy; fresh loaves from Roland Feuillas, a
baker who grows his own wheat; rare striped “tiger”
cattle raised in Corsica by Jacques Abbatucci.
Until now,
main motivation is to do things really well, giving careful thought to In this city where interior design is almost uniformly French, he element of the initiative. It is merely a background—albeit a very
both design and product.” would hire a range of international design powerhouses to create the exciting one—for food products, all raised or grown using sustain-
For his first challenge, he took over a medieval-tavern-turned-tourist- décors. And finally, the public would be able to buy food products able agricultural methods. At Le Sergent Recruteur, for example,
trap-restaurant on Ile Saint-Louis. He recruited the talented French at cost, directly from the producers, without a middleman. Inspired produce comes from Ferme du Bec Hellouin, a Normandy farm
chef Antonin Bonnet; a former student of three-star chef Michel Bras, by a poem by Guillaume Apollinaire, he christened the project “La started in 2003 by a couple who wanted to feed their children
he had been working at The Greenhouse in London. Then Naudon Jeune Rue.” healthy foods they raised themselves. Their project grew, and now
indulged his love of contemporary design by hiring Spanish design He began by purchasing more than 20 addresses on this street and they are full-time farmers who work the land using permacul-
star Jaime Hayon, who decorated the long narrow room in shades of two neighboring ones, rue Volta and rue Notre-Dame-de-Nazareth. ture, which involves innovative (and often experimental) methods
there was only one reason that food lovers—or tourists with a stone with abstract porcelain masks painted gold and white. Opened Then he started reaching out to top designers from Italy to Brazil to inspired by natural ecosystems. Their fruits and vegetables will be
hankering for some of the world’s most expensive roast chicken— in 2012, the new Sergent Recruteur has earned numerous accolades Tokyo. Most had never heard of Naudon before, and when they re- sold in a shop on rue du Vertbois.
made their way to rue du Vertbois, and that was the 90-year-old in- for its intelligently creative food and inspired decor, along with a ceived an email or a phone call from him out of the blue asking them The bread at the boulangerie will come from Roland Feuillas, a
stitution L’Ami Louis. But this otherwise neglected street in the 3rd Michelin star and a Wallpaper* magazine award for “best fixer-upper.” to participate in this fabulously crazy project, they had a hard time baker near Perpignan who grows his own wheat. He agreed to supply
arrondissement is getting a major overhaul and will soon be one of When Naudon and Bonnet started looking for a site for a second believing it was for real. “I thought, Who is playing a joke on me?” bread to La Jeune Rue on the condition that they plant about 250 acres
the most head-turning, mouthwatering areas in Paris. restaurant, they discovered a space on the humble rue du Vertbois. As recalls Eugeni Quitllet, a Catalan designer based in Barcelona. of wheat in southern France and mill it in Paris (Jaime Hayon is de-
Behind the transformation is a mysterious man named Cédric Naudon explained at a press conference a year or so later, “The person Tony Chambers, the editor-in-chief of Wallpaper* magazine, signing the mill). At the boucherie, the beef is from a rare breed of
Naudon. Press-shy and adamantly low profile (the Financial Times who sold it to me said, ‘I have three or four other locales available, and didn’t quite believe his ears either until he followed Naudon to his striped “tiger” cattle raised in Corsica by Jacques Abbatucci. He says the
dubbed him “Monsieur X”), he is a Frenchman who left home to it would be fantastic if there were a butcher shop and a cheese shop in office on Place Vendôme. “I thought he was a fantasist,” he recalls. meat’s flavor changes according to the season and what the cows eat.
make his fortune as a financier in the United States and Canada. Mis- this neighborhood.’” Before long, his goal had morphed from simply “But then I saw the plans. He took me up to his office, and there Naudon has hired a couple of scouts to crisscross France in search
sion accomplished, he realized he missed life in Paris, so he and his opening a restaurant to rejuvenating an entire street. was Patricia’s drawing, there was Nendo’s, Tom Dixon’s, Michele De of additional exceptional producers. He says that while the world’s
family returned home. In 2011 he created the company Behind the His underlying vision was to source the best-quality products from Lucchi’s. It wasn’t a joke.” best designers were more than willing to take part in La Jeune Rue be-
Scene, a producer of culinary and lifestyle spaces where, he says, “the what he calls “virtuous agriculture” for food shops, bars and restaurants. Despite this impressive lineup, design is not the most important cause they were moved by the passion and idealism behind the foods,
48 F R A NCE • S P R I NG 2 0 1 4 F R A NCE • S P R I N G 2 0 1 4 49
THE DESIGNER
Michael
Young
THE PROJECT
Le Petit Sergent Restaurant
Michael Young’s love of in-
novative technology led him
to open a studio in Hong
Kong in 2006 after spending the first
decade of his career in the UK and
Iceland (Sir Terence Conran selected
him as the most inspirational British
designer in 1997). He has designed
everything from a solar-powered
wristwatch with a touch screen to
a super-light suitcase called the
Airbag. Often he works with Chinese
manufacturers such as Chery Mo-
tors, which is producing his 21st-
century version of a Moke beach
buggy with a fuel-injected engine.
Young’s project for Naudon is not
actually part of La Jeune Rue but
rather is a cousin: the more casual
The
offshoot of Le Sergent Recruteur, the
restaurant that started it all. Called
Le Petit Sergent, it opens in mid-
The revamped Sergent Recruteur (above) June on Ile Saint-Louis.
hints at what’s in store for La Jeune Rue. He describes the interior as “anti-
Talent
Once a tourist trap, it quickly earned kudos nostalgic.” Like much of his work,
for Jaime Hayon’s inspired décor and chef it will be a meeting of high-tech
Antonin Bonnet’s creative cuisine. and artisanal handicraft, involving
a variety of textures, materials and
industrial techniques. “It will be very
new but still very warm. Often it’s dif-
“it was much more difficult to convince the producers to come.” a seafood restaurant by the Campana brothers, a tapas bar by Jasper ficult to have new things feel warm,
Indeed, how do you entice farmers whose basic philosophy is to serve Morrison, a fish monger by Tom Dixon, an oyster bar by Ramy so I guess I wanted to capture what’s
a local clientele to sell their products in distant markets? But they, Fischler, a speakeasy by Ingo Maurer and a pastry shop by the Japanese beautiful about French restaurants:
the wood, the light, the coziness.”
too, were moved by Naudon’s ambitions, which include creating a design studio Nendo.
Expect a lot of leather, aluminum,
foundation to aid agricultural systems and agroforestry (combining The project will also include an art gallery, a concept store and a paper and glass, along with original
trees with crops). movie house designed by Andrea Branzi. The idea is for La Jeune Rue
Incredibly, the team managed to keep the project a secret from to evolve over time—even now, Naudon is continuing to speak with A look at some of the designers behind La Jeune Rue wood furniture.
Young sees this project as a bit
most media outlets until their press conference last January. Even new designers and is cooking up ancillary projects such as planting of a homecoming, given that earlier
then, details were vague and few images were released. They have orchards to supply the shops. in his career, his work was shown at
been extremely cautious not to promise any inauguration dates, but When asked about financing, he avoids giving details, saying only Paris’s two original design galleries,
Neotu and En Attendant les Bar-
about five of the businesses are expected to open this spring: a butcher that he has the support of three banks and the region. He expects
bares. Once La Jeune Rue is com-
shop designed by Michele De Lucchi, a cheese shop designed by that La Jeune Rue will create 250 jobs. Eventually, his team would plete, he says, “I think Paris is going
Eugeni Quitllet, a Korean street-food café designed by Paola Navone, like to transplant the concept—the renaissance of an abandoned area to be the most multicultural city in
an ice cream shop by Vincent Darré and a hardware store by José through sustainable food and exceptional design—to other cities. the world.”
Lévy. June should herald a more casual offshoot of Le Sergent Recru- But for now, it’s Paris. As Naudon told the crowd, “After traveling,
teur, Le Petit Sergent; designed by Michael Young, it will be located after seeing Barcelona, London, New York, all these cities change,
on Ile Saint-Louis. and after having the chance to see all these designers, I thought our
Other establishments will continue to open throughout the sum- city deserved it. And as soon as I asked them to do a project in Paris,
mer and into the fall, including a private Japanese club by Jaime Hayon, they all came.” f
50 F R A NCE • S P R I NG 2 0 1 4 F R A NCE • S PR I NG 2014 51
THE DESIGNER THE DESIGNER
Patricia Eugeni
Urquiola Quitllet
THE PROJECT THE PROJECT
An Italian Restaurant A Fromagerie
Spanish superstar Patricia Born in Ibiza in 1971, Cata-
Urquiola studied architecture lan designer Eugeni Quitllet
and design in Madrid, and worked at Philippe Starck’s
then in Milan, where the great industrial side in Paris for 10 years before open-
designer Achille Castiglioni became her ing his own studio in Barcelona in
mentor. She stayed on there, working 2011. Since then, he has designed new
for others before opening her own flatware for Air France’s onboard din-
studio in 2001. ing service as well as various objects
Her style resembles her personality: for Kartell, including a “Masters” chair
warm, witty and feminine. Her work has co-signed with Starck that melds the
won numerous international awards in styles of Charles and Ray Eames, Eero
addition to finding its way into MoMA’s Saarinen and Arne Jacobsen.
permanent collection. Major projects His cheese shop is one of the first
include the W Retreat and Spa on the boutiques slated to open on La Jeune
Caribbean island of Vieques and the Rue. When Naudon first proposed the
Mandarin Oriental in Barcelona as well project, Quitllet was taken aback. “I
as furniture for Moroso, B&B Italia, Flos thought, Where has this idea come
and Kartell. from? When you are a designer, you
Even before the Jeune Rue project imagine you will do a hotel, a bar, a
took shape, Cédric Naudon had asked restaurant—something sexy. And then
her to design a second Paris restaurant someone proposes a cheese shop.”
for him. They found an attractive space But once he realized the depth of the
on rue du Vertbois, and Urquiola brain- overall concept, the commitment and
stormed with Naudon’s chef, Antonin talent of the producers involved, he
Bonnet, to come up with a concept. “For grew increasingly enthusiastic about
a restaurant, I need to work with the the idea of creating a different kind of
chef,” she explains. Both are passion- fromagerie.
ate about Italian food, and they came up He points out the parallels between
with Distillato, an eatery capturing the cheese and design—that cheese is
essence of the trattoria experience in a a natural product (milk), transformed
modern, intelligent way. by man into something unique. In a
Urquiola says the restaurant will “re- similar way, raw elements such as
visit our thoughts—my fantasies—about stone, metal and wood are changed by
the roots of Italian cuisine.” She envisions human hands into dishes, cutlery and
having different areas, each with its own furniture. “I want this spot to talk about
ambiance: a small outdoor terrace; a that, raw products and their transfor-
bar and pizza counter with windows that mation,” he says.
connect indoor and outdoor spaces; a Ultimately, Quitllet says, “the de-
dining area with a skylight, lots of copper signer should have the least important
and brick…. role. He should just set the table. After
One space was formerly an apartment, that, what matters is the products on it
and the designer will probably keep it and the people who come.”
that way, with a sitting room and dining
room so it feels like you’re eating at a
neighbor’s place. In the basement, an-
other dining area will be connected to the
wine cellar, with restrooms that will look
like huge wine barrels. Urquiola explains,
“The idea is to use all these things I have
seen in trattorias but in a more architec-
tural, sculptural way.”
F R A NCE • S PR I NG 2014 53
THE DESIGNER THE DESIGNER
José Lévy Jasper
THE PROJECTS
A Concept Store and a
Morrison
Hardware Store
THE PROJECT
A Tapas Bar
Parisian designer José Lévy
is a touche-à-tout, or jack
of all trades. He made a For nearly 30 years, London
name for himself back in the native Jasper Morrison
1980s working as a fashion has been creating simple,
designer capable of high minimalist objects to enhance our
and low, from the artistic direction everyday lives: white ceramic table-
of Emanuel Ungaro to collections for ware (produced by Alessi), alumi-
discount retailer Monoprix. num stacking chairs, bus stops in
Eventually he started crossing over Germany and Switzerland, a long
into product design: porcelain for public bench in Tokyo. La Jeune Rue
Sèvres, ceramics for Astier de Vil- gives him his first chance to design
latte, bedding for Garnier-Thiebaut, a restaurant, and his concept for the
furniture for Roche-Bobois. A few tapas bar does not stray far from his
years ago, he redesigned a pharmacy signature restraint.
at Place de la Bastille, and he has “The important thing about the
just finished a second one near Place design I have in mind is that it tries
de la République. A fun, functional not to be too much of a design at
space, it combines green marble all,” he explains. “The restaurants
floors, a vertical garden and a bit of I like are the ones where the food
Vegas, with neon tubes crisscrossing does all the talking and the ambi-
the ceiling and moving LED signs. ence is a discreet second level.
For La Jeune Rue, Lévy is design- When you walk into such a place,
ing two projects. The more personal you should be more aware of the
one, Chez José Lévy, will be a con- atmosphere of people enjoying the
cept store selling limited-edition food than you are of the design.”
objects that he will design (or co- His idea is to have a Carrara
design) especially for the space— marble bar be the focal point of this
everything from clothing to writing compact space. One wall may be
instruments to jam. covered with cork tiles that have a
The second is more prosaic: a fine corrugated effect, contrasting
hardware store, designed in col- with a marble-tile floor. In the back, a
laboration with A+A Cooren, a young vertical window would provide views
French-Japanese couple he admires. of the display case for the jamón.
He likes the idea that, like a phar- “I don’t want to make it very dif-
macy, a quincaillerie is “a neighbor- ferent from other tapas bars,” Mor-
hood supplier, like a tool box close rison says, “though inevitably it will
to home.” The objects on sale will be, as everything is being specially
be carefully selected based on their designed.”
function and aesthetic value, though
“nothing ostentatious,” he says.
“I don’t see why only expensive
things can be beautiful. You can
create very interesting objects for
the mass market too.”
F R A NCE • S PR I NG 2014 55
THE DESIGNER THE DESIGNER
Jaime Wallpaper
Hayon THE PROJECT
The Magazine’s First Boutique
THE PROJECTS
A Private Club, a Flour Mill
Founded in 1996 by Tyler
Brûlé, this London-based mag-
azine is a bible for followers of
Born in Madrid in 1974, on the design, architecture, fashion and art. In
eve of the Movida, Hayon is a 2007, creative director Tony Chambers
free-spirited designer whose took over as editor-in-chief and helped
work combines humor with transform Wallpaper* into a multi-
a respect for craftsmanship platform brand with a thriving website,
and often veers into artistic awards programs, city guides, design
territory. Since going solo in 2004, he collaborations and even a bespoke ser-
has created tongue-in-cheek porcelain vice called Wallpaper* Composed, which
figures for Lladró, fuschia “tap dance” has decorated several apartments.
shoes for Camper, “Candy Light” After Wallpaper* gave Le Sergent
lamps with waffled crystal shades Recruteur a design award in 2013,
for Baccarat, and eye-catching inte- Cédric Naudon contacted Chambers
riors for clients from Fabergé to the to thank him for what he considered
Groninger Museum in Holland. TIME the ultimate accolade. The two met for
Magazine has put him on its “Style & drinks in Paris, where Naudon revealed
Design 100” list, and Wallpaper* con- his plans for La Jeune Rue. The follow-
siders him one of the decade’s most ing day they visited it together. Inspired,
influential designers. Chambers asked if Wallpaper* could
Hayon’s sophisticated yet playful have one of the spaces to open up its
design for Le Sergent Recruteur first gallery/store. He says that La Jeune
restaurant on Ile Saint-Louis helped Rue is “one of the most extraordinary
put Cédric Naudon on the map in things I’ve ever come across, in terms
Paris. “He’s someone who wants to of its ambition, its quality and the caliber
be involved, to know about details,” of the talent on board.”
Hayon says of Naudon, adding that an Opening this spring, the Wallpaper*
understanding of the cuisine was store will be designed by the magazine’s
an essential element of the design. own interiors team, which typically cre-
“Part of the Sergent Recruteur’s ates sets for photo shoots and runs
success was interpreting what Wallpaper* Composed. “We did think
Antonin Bonnet’s cooking was about, about bringing designers on board,”
how the nature of his cuisine could be says Chambers, “but then we thought,
expressed by all the furniture and What’s the point? Cédric has got the ul-
elements we put inside.” timate lineup anyway, and if we brought
The Spaniard has two projects on on another star designer, maybe we’d
tap for La Jeune Rue. One is a mill just look like a media partner. We’re
on the rue Notre Dame-de-Nazareth, more than that.”
where specially grown wheat will be The products on sale will come from
processed for the bread sold at the the archives of an ongoing Wallpaper*
bakery nearby. The other, a private project called “Handmade,” specially
Japanese club, will probably feature commissioned objects from collabora-
a delicate mix of materials (wood, tions between the publication and out-
ceramics, crystal, stone). Few people side artisans, designers, manufacturers
will see inside, but from the outside, and brands. In keeping with the neigh-
this corner space will be like a closed borhood’s culinary theme, Wallpaper*
box with windows so special that, will reissue some of the foods and food-
Hayon says, “desire will be encoun- related objects, from olive oil to drink-
tered by everyone who passes.” ing glasses. The store might also sell
implements from the various restaurants
on La Jeune Rue, sure to be some of the
best-designed forks and knives in town.
36
5 2 F R A NCE • S P R I NG 2 0 1 4
This article originally appeared
in the Spring 2014 issue of France Magazine.
THE BEST OF CULTURE,
TR AVEL & ART DE V IVRE
Spring 2014
Bad-Boy Artist
Jean-Baptiste
CARPEAUX
FARM
to (very cool)
TABLES
Remembering
D-DAY
$5.95 U.S. / $6.95 Canada / francemagazine.org
Founded in 1985, France Magazine is published
by the nonprofit French-American Cultural Foundation.
Subscriptions and gift subscriptions
are available online at www.francemagazine.org
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