Cat and Kitten Foster Handbook - A reference guide for RSPCA SA Foster Carers - RSPCA South Australia
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
Cat and Kitten Foster Handbook
A reference guide for
RSPCA SA Foster Carers
0
Table of Contents
Important Information and Emergency Numbers ............................................... 2
Welcome ........................................................................................................... 3
What is Foster Care?……….……………………………………………………………………..………….4
Foster Volunteer Duties ..................................................................................... 7
Suggested Fostering Supplies ............................................................................. 8
Toys ................................................................................................................... 9
Animal Proofing Your Home ............................................................................. 10
Mother cats with kittens .................................................................................. 12
Setting up your Foster Room ............................................................................ 13
Feeding Kittens ................................................................................................ 14
Litterbox Set up…..……………………………………………………………………………………………15
Common Medical and Behavioural issues ......................................................... 16
Kitten Behaviour .............................................................................................. 18
Kitten Developmental Stages ........................................................................... 19
Behaviour modification kittens ........................................................................ 23
Kitten Mortality ............................................................................................... 24
Return and Adoption……………………………………………….………………………………….…..25
Cleaning Procedures ........................................................................................ 26
Safety and Incident Reports ............................................................................. 27
Feline-alities…………………………….…......................................................................30
Weight Charts .................................................................................................. 32
1
Important Information and Emergency Numbers
RSPCA South Australia
25 Meyer Road, LONSDALE, 5161
Opening hours to the public
10am – 4pm weekdays (CLOSED Tuesdays)
10am – 2pm weekends and public holidays
The foster office is staffed
8.30am – 4.30pm weekdays
8.30am – 3.00pm weekends and public holidays
To contact the Foster Team During Shelter Hours
M: 0417 999 940 - cats and kittens, pocket pets
M :0400 851 368 – dog and puppies
Email the Foster Coordinator
fostercare@rspcasa.org.au
Book a cat, kitten, or rabbit for desexing
desex@rspcasa.org.au
After Hours:
If there is an Emergency please call: 0417 424 614
Please save this number into your mobile on the first day of taking home a
foster animal.
We would prefer you to call if needed, rather than wait till morning if an
animal is seriously unwell
Notify the Foster Coordinator or
the RSPCA immediately if a foster
animal becomes lost!
2
Welcome!
Welcome to the RSPCA South Australia’s Foster Program. Your volunteer
contributions allow us to continue to successfully rehome thousands of animals
every year.
As the number of animals that our shelter sees increases annually, so does the
number of animals who need foster homes. Each year our numbers continue to
grow, as does the need for volunteers to help save lives.
Our foster care program is growing rapidly and we are so pleased to have many new
carers joining. It is an exciting time with lots of new developments coming, so we
thank you for your patience and support. Helping animals through RSPCA SA will
soon be easier and more accessible to everyone!
Your help is priceless and we couldn’t do it without you!
Thank you!
3
What is Foster Care? How does it work?
Overview:
The main reason that animals from the shelter go into foster care are:
They are too young or small to be desexed and then made available for
adoption.
They lack confidence being around new people and need positive
experiences in a home environment to help them become more adoptable
They are recovering from a medical illness or surgery.
They have been waiting a long time to be adopted and need a break from the
shelter, known as ‘respite’
Our inspectorate team has seized the animals and are prosecuting the
owners for cruelty (experienced carers only)
They have a terminal illness and need a foster carer to spend the rest of their
days with while their quality of life is still good, known as ‘fospice’
(experienced carers only)
Why Foster Care? RSPCA South Australia is moving away from the outdated model
of caring for homeless animals in a shelter, and towards a community-based (foster
care) approach. This is because we believe this provides better standards of care and
welfare for the animals, while reducing risks of illness and behavioural problems
commonly caused by stress. The foster program allows us to save more animal lives
than would be possible using a shelter-based approach.
The goal of the foster program is to get animals ready for adoption, in the comfort of
a home environment rather than a shelter.
Commitment: Foster carers need to be able to commit time in the foster home each
day to health check and interact with their foster animal, and to clean their
environment. Foster carers must be available to transport foster animals to the
shelter at short notice, if required, for medical or behavioural issues, and to collect
supplies and medications.
Sounds great! When can I start? Cats breed during the warm weather from
November - March of each year, and the shelter receives hundreds of stray kittens
during this time. We call this ‘Kitten Season.’ During the colder months of the year,
the cat and kitten foster program is less active.
The Dog and Pocket Pet foster program activity fluctuates during the year, and
depends on rates of animals incoming to the shelter, and rates of animal adoptions
from the shelter.
4
Placement: After a Shelter Officer, Veterinarian and/or Behaviour assessor has found
that an animal needs a foster home, the Foster team will then contact foster carers
via:
Making a Facebook post for cats, kittens, and Pocket Pets. The first
commenter available to collect that day will be allocated the animal, as long
as they are a suitable match for the animal’s needs.
Phone call or text for dog or puppy carers who have submitted yard checks.
***We are working towards a website to make allocations easier for Foster
Carers, and will let you know when this is ready***
Please do not contact the foster care team to enquire if animals are available. We
appreciate your enthusiasm but getting these calls take away from time assisting
foster carers with current foster animals, or allocating animals to new carers.
Length of foster: This will depend on the reason for fostering and varies from days
to months
Kittens will be in foster until they are big enough for desexing (900g and up)
Kittens gain approximately 100g per week, and their age will match up with
their weight in grams. A kitten that weighs 600g is likely 6 weeks old and
needs 3 weeks in foster. A kitten that weighs 500g is likely 5 weeks old and
needs 4 weeks in foster, and so on.
Timid or nervous cats and kittens can spend up to a month having ‘behaviour
modification’
Recovery from an illness or surgery may only take 7 – 10 days
Fospice animals or those involved in Prosecution cases may be months –
years
Process: Once you agree to foster an animal or litter, the cat or kitten and its
paperwork are prepared for pickup. An appointment is made for the carer to come in
and pick up the animal from the shelter. All necessary supplies such as cat carrier,
litter, special diet, or medication will be arranged. You can use your own cat carrier
to collect your foster animal/s if you have one. You will need to keep your own
companion animal/s separate to the foster animal/s for a period of 10 days initially.
**Please note, we are currently doing Social Distancing at the Lonsdale Shelter due
to the Covid 19 pandemic, so please call 0417 999 940 when you arrive in the
carpark, and everything will be brought out to you.
5
Foster Agreement: When the animal/s are available for you, you will receive foster
care instructions. If you cannot fulfil the entire foster term (due to scheduling
restraints, vacations, or unforeseen events), contact the Foster Coordinator asap
so other foster carer arrangements can be made or for the animal(s) to be returned
to the Shelter. For temporary care of just a few days, we may be able to keep the
foster animal/s at the shelter.
Veterinary Appointments: You will be informed of any scheduled veterinary
appointments (check-ups or vaccinations) upon collection of the cats/kittens. For any
other veterinary appointments you need to make, please contact the Foster
coordinator to make arrangements and quote the Animal ID number. All
appointments are at the Lonsdale Shelter and at no cost to the foster carer.
Booking in for Desexing: Desexing appointments can be booked when all kittens in
the litter are over 800 – 850g. Email desex@rspcasa.org.au with names, Animal ID,
weight and a brief history of any medical conditions, and the name and contact
number of potential adopters (Expressions of Interest or EOIs) You will receive a
reply with a desexing date and all the information to get them ready for their big
day! Please let your EOIs know to plan to adopt their kitten the day after desexing.
Return to Adoption Centre:
Foster animals are ready for return to the shelter when:
They are big enough to be desexed (over 900g for kittens) The day you drop
your cats and kittens in for desexing is the last day of their foster journey
with you. Animals become available for adoption the day after their desexing.
Their behaviour improves where they no longer hide or hiss at new people.
They recover from an illness they were being treated for, or from a surgery.
The foster care team request that you return the animal to the shelter.
Responsibility: Foster animals must stay in the immediate care and residence of the
foster volunteer. Leaving your foster animal in anyone else’s care is prohibited,
unless specific arrangements have been made with the approval of the Foster
Coordinator. If you are unable to care for your foster animal for the entire length of
the foster agreement, notify the Foster Coordinator as soon as possible so that
alternate arrangements may be made.
6
Foster Care Duties
Daily Duties include:
Leave dry food available at all times, change this daily
Have fresh water available at all times, change the water daily
Feed tinned food 2 -3 times daily (if instructed by the foster care team)
Clean litter trays at least twice daily; check for any medical problems (bloody
urine, runny stools, worms, constipation).
Check the entire cat or kitten thoroughly for symptoms of health problems
o Check eyes, nose, and ears for discharge
o Weigh and record weight. Report loss of weight or failure to gain
weight if persists for 48 hours.
o Check fur and skin for patches of hair loss or injuries
o Check anus for faeces stuck to fur or bottom – diarrhoea can burn the
skin and needs to be cleaned off immediately
o Check genitals for swelling (most important in litters of orphaned
kittens who are being bottle fed – they are at risk of suckling on the
genitals of littermates and this can become a medical emergency!)
Report health or behaviour concerns to the foster care team ASAP.
Give flea and worming prevention medications as instructed
Give medications if instructed to
Play with and socialize cat or kitten/s.
Other Duties:
Check regularly to ensure that all vaccination and deworming schedules are
met
Clean bedding
Schedule de-sexing surgery during foster period, if/when applicable.
7
Fostering Supplies
The RSPCA SA will supply you with all the food, litter, vet treatment, and medication
your fosters will need during the entire time you have them your in care. However,
here are some supplies you will need to provide for your kittens.
Cotton balls, facial tissues or toilet tissue for neonates
Kitchen scales
Bedding
Food and water bowls
Toys (a toilet roll does the job!)
Litter box (1 or more)
Litter scoop
Newspaper
Scratching Post (the cardboard types work well and are inexpensive)
All food for the cat/kittens in Foster Care will be provided but if
the Foster Carer does purchase something different for the
cat/kitten, it will be considered as a donation to the RSPCA.
Toys
Be Cautious
Items that are most attractive to cats are often the very things that are most
dangerous. Cat proof your home by checking for: string, ribbon, yarn, rubber bands,
plastic milk jug rings, paper clips, pins, needles, or anything else that could be
swallowed. Supervise your foster animals with toys as appropriate. You may choose
to pack some toys away when foster animals are left on their own.
Avoid or alter toys that are not cat proof. Items include ribbons, feathers, strings
and toy parts that could be removed, chewed, and/or swallowed.
Soft toys should be machine washable. Check toy labels for child safety; a stuffed toy
that is labelled “safe for children under 3 years old” cannot contain dangerous
fillings. Problem fillings include nutshells and polystyrene beads. However, even
safe stuffing is not digestible.
8
Examples of Interactive Toys:
Round plastic shower curtain rings. These are fun as a single ring to bat around, hide
or carry. They can be linked together and hung in an enticing spot.
Plastic rolling balls, with or without bells inside.
Ping Pong balls or practice golf balls with holes to help cats carry them. Try putting
one in a dry bathtub; the captive ball is much more fun than one that escapes under
the sofa.
Paper bags- remember to remove any handles. Paper bags are good for pouncing,
hiding and hunting littermates.
Toilet paper and paper towels rolls are ideal; “unwind” a little cardboard on one end
to get them started.
Crumpled up paper balls – flick them around and watch the kittens chase!
Plastic bags are not safe toys. Many cats like to chew and ingest this
type of plastic.
9Animal proofing your home
Cats and kittens are curious creatures. Many are capable of jumping onto high
surfaces or squeezing into the smallest of spaces!
Kitchens/Bathrooms/Laundry Rooms
Use childproof latches to keep little paws from prying open cabinets
Keep medications, cleaners, chemicals, and laundry supplies on high shelves
Keep bins covered or inside a latched cabinet
Check for and block any small spaces, nooks, or holes inside cabinetry or
behind washer/dryer units
Make sure cats or kittens haven't jumped into the washer/dryer before you
turn it on (this does happen!)
Keep food out of reach (even if the food isn't harmful, the wrapper could be)
Keep toilet lids closed to prevent drowning.
Living/Family Rooms
Place dangling wires from lamps, DVD players, TVs and phones out of reach
Keep children’s toys packed away
Put away knickknacks until the cat or kitten has the coordination and/or
understanding not to knock them over
Block all those spaces where your vacuum cleaner doesn't fit, but a foster
kitten could
Remove dangerous items, like string and pins
Move houseplants – some of which can be poisonous - out of reach, including
hanging plants that can be jumped onto from other nearby surfaces. Even
brief/minor contact with Lily plants can be fatal to cats.
Put away all sewing and craft materials, especially thread
Secure aquariums or cages that house small animals, like hamsters or fish, to
keep them safe
Make sure all heating and air vents have a cover/guard rail.
10Garage
Most garages usually contain too many dangerous chemicals and unsafe
items to be an acceptable foster care site. Foster animals should never be
housed in a garage unless discussed with the Foster Coordinator
Move all chemicals to high shelves or behind secure doors.
Bedrooms
Keep clothing and shoes behind closed doors (drawstrings and loose buttons
can cause major problems)
Keep any medications, lotions or cosmetics off accessible surfaces (like the
bedside table)
Move electrical and phone wires out of reach of chewing.
Potentially Dangerous Situations
Closet and bedroom doors
Open doors to the outdoors (escape)
Open dryer doors
Open drawers
Computer wires (electrocution or strangulation)
Folding chairs
Potted plants (possible poisoning or pulling plant off of shelf onto animal).
Never underestimate a foster animal's abilities.
Accidents happen!
11A mother cat with kittens is a great way to start!
In a normal situation a Foster Volunteer will not be required to bottle feed young
infant kittens. The RSPCA has a neonatal program specifically for new borns without
their mothers. If you are interested in the neonatal program please contact the
Foster Coordinator.
During Kitten Season, we will often have a mother cat with her litter of kittens
brought into to us as a family. This is the ideal situation as the mother cat will do
most of the work of raising the kittens – she will feed them, groom them, and teach
them normal kitten behaviour. Kittens with a mother cat are less likely to have issues
with illness compared to orphaned kitten. Having a mother cat with kittens is
therefore highly recommended for new foster carers, and an excellent way to learn
firsthand about kitten growth and development.
Setting up your Foster Room
Foster cats and kittens should be kept in one room of the house, separate
from all other pets, for 10 full days.
This room should ideally be tiled or floorboards which are easy to clean.
Please keep windows closed and be aware that cats can easily push through
flyscreen mesh and become lost outdoors.
For a large room, you may consider using a secure playpen (purchased from
Kmart or similar) while you are not supervising the kittens.
A very basic set up is pictured:
For a large litter, consider 2 or more litter
trays. It can be easier to clean up if you put
newspaper or puppy pads under your litter
trays in case of spillage.
If the weather is cold, add more blankets to
the sleeping area
Set up a bowl of dry food, and a bowl of
water away from the litterboxes.
Include some toys and enrichment items
(scratching post etc)
12For a mother cat with very young kittens, it’s important to keep the set up small and
secure, to ensure that she doesn’t move her babies to a place where they could
become lost or cold. The box or area should be large enough for the mother cat to
comfortably lie away from the litter if she chooses, but small enough so the kittens
are easy for you to reach. The sides need to be high enough to prevent the young
from wandering, but low enough for the mother to be able to come and go with
ease.
The box should be lined with appropriate materials. If you are using a cardboard or
wooden box, line the bottom with heavy plastic. Several layers of clean newspaper
should be laid on top of the plastic to absorb moisture and odour. Clean, dry, soft,
non-ravel, removable material should be placed on top of the newspaper (blankets,
mattress pad, etc.).
It is important that the area where the kittens are kept is warm and smooth, so that
the area around the umbilical cord does not become infected. Never place kittens in
deep, loose bedding, (straw, hay, or shavings). These materials could obstruct
breathing or be inhaled and cause respiratory infections.
Drafts/dampness will chill neonates, even when room temperature is sufficient. Do
not place cardboard boxes housing the young on concrete; this will draw a large
amount of heat away from them. Kittens are not able to maintain their own body
temperature until they are 2 to 3 weeks old.
13Weaning and Feeding Kittens
For your first-time fostering kittens, you will be allocated a litter that are big enough
to be eating on their own without assistance from you.
Kittens less than 3 weeks old are fed entirely on milk, either from their mother cat,
or from a bottle if they have become orphaned.
Between 3 -5 weeks of age, kittens will gradually start eating solid food. We start
them off with mashed wet food (smooth with no chunks) and help them progress to
tinned food, and then kibble. The dry kibble can be soaked in hot water to soften it
first (allow 15 mins to cool before giving to kittens)
By the time they are around 600g or 6 weeks old, we will only supply them with dry
food.
Some kittens take longer to wean than others. It is important to always watch the
litter to ensure that each individual is eating healthy amounts of food. Check
tummies for fullness after each meal. Always monitor individual kitten urination and
defection movements.
If you are lucky enough to have the mother cat with her kittens, she will take care of
the weaning process herself. You will want to be sure you are supplying enough
food for the nursing queen as well as the weaning kittens. Mother cat will be
supplied kitten food as it is higher in calories to support her while she feeds her
kittens.
Introducing Food
Dip your finger into the wet mixture and let the kitten lick at it, or smear a small
amount on the kitten’s lips. Be careful not to get any of the mixture in the kitten’s
nose. You may also touch a finger into the mixture and then place the finger into the
kitten’s mouth.
All changes in amounts and consistency of food should be made
gradually to promote good digestion.
Never give cow’s milk
No milk for kittens! This includes the Whiskas ‘kitten milk’ and especially not the
milk we drink. It has far too much lactose in it for their sensitive bellies and can give
them a bad case of diarrhoea.
14Litter Training Kittens and Cats
When a kitten is about 4 weeks old, it will begin to play in, explore and dig in loose,
soft materials, such as dirt or litter. From this play, kittens will quickly learn to toilet
here.
Kittens DO NOT have to be taught to use a litter box. This behaviour is called
“innate” or “instinctive” because the kitten is born knowing how to do it.
All that is really necessary to litter train a kitten or cat is to provide litter boxes in a
quiet, easily accessed place, and to keep the litter clean by regularly removing waste
(at least twice a day).
A good litter box guideline is to have at least as many litter boxes as you have
cats/kittens. That way, no one can be prevented from using the box because it is
already occupied and litter trays do not become full too quickly.
Uncovered litter boxes tend to suit young kittens, and large adult cats.
A covered box tends to provide more privacy and may be preferred by shy,
timid cats. A litter box cover can be made from an upside down cardboard
box with the flaps and one side cut away.
Only use non-clumping litter with kittens who have not yet completely weaned
onto solid food. When first exploring the litter box, kittens tend to taste their litter
and play in it. This causes the dust from clumping litter to solidify in their respiratory
or digestive tracts
Do not take a cat to the box and move its paws back and forth in the litter. This may
actually be an unpleasant experience for the cat and may initiate negative
associations with the litter box.
Do not place litter trays too close to food and water bowls for hygiene reasons.
Do not use strong smelling chemicals or cleaning products when washing the litter
box. The smell of vinegar, bleach or pine cleaners may cause the cat to avoid using
the litter box. Washing with soap and water should be sufficient. Letting the
container air dry in the sun is also a good idea, but it will be necessary to have a
back-up litter box while the other one is being cleaned.
15Common Medical and Behavioural Issues
All animals are evaluated for age, health and temperament before being placed in a
foster home.
However, several diseases are commonly seen in a shelter environment. Most of
these diseases have incubation periods before symptoms appear. Your foster animal
may have been infected with a disease before going out into foster care, but not
show symptoms until after you have brought it home. Unfortunately, there aren't
always tests to determine some diseases before an animal shows symptoms.
My kitten has Diarrhoea!
This can happen from stress, sudden change in diet, weather, or in some cases, an
infection in the intestinal tract. Monitor over the next day or so and be vigilant that
they are drinking enough water. Taking photos of the stool in the litter tray can be
very helpful for the vet team!
Please make sure to keep their bottom and surrounding area clean using warm water
and mild shampoo if needed – diarrhoea can cause burns to this delicate area!
Remember to dry your kittens thoroughly.
When to contact the foster team: If diarrhoea continues for more than 24 hours.
Please either phone the foster mobile, or make a post on the Facebook page. In most
cases, our vet team are able to offer Email Consults and dispense medication (if
required) without the animal having to come to the shelter.
If the animal is lethargic and has no interest in food, call the foster care team or
the out of hours emergency number.
Kittens are sneezing a lot!
Cat flu is very common in stray cats and kittens, and in a shelter environment. It’s
important that your household cats are up to date with their annual F3 or F4
vaccination prior to commencing fostering, as cat flu is contagious. The symptoms
include sneezing, discharge from eyes and/or nose, lethargy, loss of appetite,
wheezing.
When to contact the foster team: If your cat or kitten is sneezing but otherwise well
with no other symptoms, please monitor for 24 – 48 hours. The sneezing will likely
resolve without treatment. If sneezing persists, or other symptoms of flu develop,
please let the foster team know. You can either phone the foster mobile, or make a
post on the Facebook page. In most cases, our vet team are able to offer Email
Consults and dispense medication (if required) without the animal having to come to
the shelter.
16I’ve noticed some bald patches!
Don’t panic! Bald patches can have many causes, many which are not serious.
However, Ringworm is the main concern as it is a fungal condition that is contagious
to both people and animals.
When to call the foster team: ASAP.If ringworm is confirmed, it can be treated in the
foster environment, with supplies given to the carer to reduce the chance of it
spreading to others in the home. We can also treat ringworm at the shelter.
One of my kittens is smaller than the others!
Some kittens are just smaller and gain weight slower than their bigger siblings. If the
kitten is consistently gaining weight each day, then you are doing a good job!
When to call the foster team: If a kitten is losing weight, failing to put on weight, or
if weight gain seems excessively slow. The normal amount is about 10-15 grams a
day. Weight loss or lack of weight gain over 24 – 48 hours can quickly become a
medical emergency.
My kitten just isn’t right today…
Kittens have off days too. However, kittens can become seriously unwell quickly, so
let us know if you’re worried that something isn’t right.
When to call the foster team: If there is weight loss, lethargy, loss of appetite or
anything at all that seems odd about their behaviour, call us ASAP.
My kitten is very timid
Kittens that don’t have positive experiences with humans during crucial times in
their development can grow up to fear humans. It is possible to help these kittens
become more confident and friendly, but it can take a lot of time and effort on the
part of the foster carer to help them reach their potential. Fostering these
‘behaviour modification’ kittens can be very rewarding, but it isn’t always easy. If
you have questions, the facebook group has many experienced carers that can offer
support and advice.
Kitten Lady has some great videos on Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ST8dlkNGT9I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gD4y99kBv0
I would like to pick up some food/litter/worming/flea treatment.
You are welcome to come to the shelter during opening hours for supplies. The dry
food is kept outside the foster office in large bins. Please bring your own containers
to refill. When to call the foster team: If you need worming and flea treatment give
us a call. Have the ID numbers and the weight of your kittens ready so we can get an
accurate dosage.
17Kitten Behaviour
A great amount of time and effort is required to properly socialize kittens between
the ages of 4 to 12 weeks. Daily socialization sessions are important in shaping the
kitten’s future personality and emotional growth.
It is VITAL to include patting, talking and playing with foster kittens and cats in order
for them to build good “people skills” and confidence.
Well socialized mother cats are more likely to have well socialized kittens. The
kittens “feed” off the mother’s calm or fearful attitude toward people.
Kittens separated from their littermates too soon often do not develop appropriate
social skills. These can include, but are not limited to:
1) Learning how to send and receive signals to other cats
2) What an inhibited bite is
3) How far to go in play wrestling with littermates
Play helps to increase physical coordination and social skills, learning limits and how
to be a cat by interacting with littermates and mother.
Combine simple play with things that will get them ready for adoption and future vet
appointments. This can means getting kitten’s used to having its paws touched
(front and back), mouth opened and ears touched. Combining this with regular
grooming sessions and body massages help prevents skin sensitivity or aversion to
touch. Acquaint kittens to different sights, sounds and textures.
18Kitten Developmental Stages
Sourced from http://www.kittenlady.org/age
19Kitten Developmental Stages
Neonates
Neonatal kittens should be pink, firm, plump and generally healthy in
appearance.
Newborn kittens will have their eyes closed, their ears folded, and their
umbilical cord attached. At this age, they cannot hear or see; they can only
navigate the world around them through scent and through seeking warmth
and comfort.
Newborns do not have a gag reflex. For this reason, it is essential to feed very
slowly and with extreme caution.
The first 48 hours of a kitten's life are a critical period for obtaining maternal
antibodies through nursing. During the first two days, a nursing mother may
pass immunity to her kitten through colostrum, which will help the kitten
fight illness. If a kitten does not receive the colostrum, she will be immune
compromised and more vulnerable to disease and infection.
Average newborn kitten weight: 50-150 grams
One Week
One week old kittens will have closed eyes, but no umbilical cord.
Around 7 days, the ear canals will slowly begin to open.
Around 8-12 days, the eyes will slowly begin to open. Never attempt to pry
open a kitten's eyes; let them open naturally. All kittens will be born with
baby blue eyes, which will change to their adult eye color as they age.
By one week of age, the kitten should have doubled her birth weight.
One week old kittens cannot regulate body temperature. During this time it is
critical to provide a gentle heat source to keep the kitten warm and stable.
Average one week old kitten weight: 150-250 grams
Two Weeks
At two weeks of age, kittens' eyes will be fully open and baby blue. Her vision
will still be developing.
The ear canals will be open and the ears will be small and rounded, like a
baby bear cub.
Two week old kittens will be wobbly on their feet and attempting to develop
coordination and movement.
Two week old kittens cannot regulate body temperature. During this time it is
critical to provide a gentle heat source to keep the kitten warm and stable.
At two weeks, it is safe to begin dewormer for the kitten.
Average two week old kitten weight: 250-350 grams
20Three Weeks
At three weeks of age, a kitten's first teeth will begin to emerge. The tiny
teeth at the front of the mouth, called the incisors, will start to come through
the gums.
Three week old kittens will have ears that point upwards, like a miniature cat.
At this age, kittens will be walking, exploring their surroundings, and even
beginning to explore the litter box.
Three week old kittens still require a heat source, but will be more active and
may stray from it when not sleeping.
Average three week old kitten weight: 350-450 grams
Four Weeks
At four weeks of age, a kitten's teeth will continue to develop. The long tooth
next to the incisors, called the canine teeth, will start to come through the
gums.
Four week old kittens will be confidently exploring and developing more
coordination that allows them to walk, run, and even begin to play.
Continue providing a heat source for four week old kittens, although they will
likely use it only when resting.
Kitten’s this age will generally be using a litter box
Average four week old kitten weight: 350-450 grams
Five Weeks
At five weeks of age, a kitten's teeth will continue to develop. The premolars
will start to emerge, indicating that a kitten is ready to be introduced to
weaning onto wet food. Weaning is a sensitive time in a kitten's life and
should be handled with care; provide supplemental feeding and ensure that
the kitten is maintaining a healthy weight and body condition.
Average five week old kitten weight: 550-650 grams
Five week old kitten care schedule: orphans of this age, if healthy, may be
introduced to weaning. Kittens should receive this care every 5-6 hours. If
weaned, food and water should be provided at all times.
Six Weeks
At six weeks of age, a kitten's deciduous teeth will have fully emerged, and
she will typically be perfecting her weaning onto wet food. Once kittens are
over 600g, they should be confidently eating dry food.
Average six week old kitten weight: 650-750 grams
Introduce the kitten to as many different people as possible – people of
different shapes, sizes, colours, sexes and ages. Encourage the kitten to allow
individual handling by different people: men, women, and supervised
children.
Also introduce the kitten to other animals. Supervise the visits (about 5
minutes). These visits should be calm and pleasant. A traumatic incident at
this stage could have a lasting effect.
21 Continue to add appropriate toys to the kitten’s environment.
Expose the kitten to mild sounds that they will encounter in day to day life –
vacuum, television etc
Expose the kitten to different areas and surfaces, allowing it to investigate.
Seven Weeks
At seven weeks, kittens will have all of their baby teeth.
Kittens should now be weaned onto eating dry food.
At this age, the adult eye colour will begin to emerge. Kittens' eyes will
change from baby blue to the eye colour they will keep permanently. Kittens
with grey, green, or yellow eyes are likely 7 weeks or older.
Average seven week old kitten weight: 750-850 grams
Eight Weeks
At eight weeks old, most kittens will be eating independently.
Kittens of this age will have their permanent adult eye color.
Introductions to people are extremely important as the kitten develops the
ability to form permanent relationships with humans at this time. Supervise
the visit, but expose the kitten to as many different types of people as
Introduce the kitten to a carrier.
Introduce the kitten to louder noises gradually, such as a vacuum cleaner,
hairdryer, washing machine and/or dishwasher. Play with the kitten as you
introduce the noise in the background to reinforce a positive experience.
Exposing kittens to a variety of unusual sounds helps them become
accustomed to
these noises. It will also minimize fearful, nervous reactions to noises later in
life.
Always praise a kitten for positive reactions. Never punish a kitten by
forcing it to approach a scary situation.
Kittens who are 8 weeks and weigh at least 900g are able to be desexed and
adopted into loving forever homes.
Average eight week old kitten weight: 850-950 grams
22Fostering under socialised kittens
Under socialized, neglected, and frightened kittens may be the most challenging to
foster. They require specialized care in order to qualify for our adoption program.
Many arrive never having lived indoors among people, with minimal human contact
during their critical “imprinting” stage.
These kittens may have never been inside a house, may not be litter trained, and
may have never before experienced kindness from a human. They will require a
great deal of attention, patience and time from their foster family.
Under socialized kittens must be closely monitored to reduce the chance of escape
or destructive behaviour. They frequently require fostering for at least a month
while they acquire the social skills that will make them treasured lifelong
companions for a lucky family.
Under socialized kittens are housed best in smaller rooms with just a few hiding
places (bathrooms are ideal). The kitten can be found more easily this way.
Suggested Supplies:
Wet canned food or roast chicken can be used as a treat or for enticement, and
should be given when you are able to spend time with the kitten, if possible. Do not
withhold food, but make it enticing enough for the kitten to come out of hiding
when a person is in the room. A favourite book to read aloud from will often relax a
cat. A simple cardboard box makes a great hiding place too!
Daily Duties:
Start off by getting the kitten used to being around people. Spend time in the
room; playing soft music in the background, talking gently to the kitten,
moving slowly, blinking at the kitten when making eye contact
o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdLf6I8oE-0 to learn the ‘I love you!’
slow blink that can relax cats (source: Jackson Galaxy)
Use delicious treats to help lure the kitten to interact with you and teach
them that humans bring positive experiences
Play games with them to build their confidence
Gently introduce them to being stroked, then handled
Introduce the cat to a litter box.
Socialize the kitten, when ready, to other people.
23We can’t always save them all
Before you start fostering, it’s important to understand that kittens can be very
fragile, become seriously unwell very quickly, and despite all of our best efforts, will
sometimes unfortunately die during the foster process.
Most kittens that come into our care were born on the streets and do not have a
good start to life. When they are born to malnourished or ill mothers, their risk of
congenital or inherited defects can be higher. If they were poorly nourished before
coming in to foster care, they may have lower defence against disease and infection.
We will always supply our best emergency care, proper nutrition, attention to
cleanliness, correct diagnostic and medical treatment but in some cases even this
won’t be enough. To give your kitten the best chance, ALWAYS contact the foster
team with any questions or concerns – we’re always here to help!
The death of a kitten, of any foster in fact, can be emotionally difficult for the foster
carer. It is important to understand and accept that some kittens will not make it.
What we can do for these kittens is surround them with warmth and care, and make
their passing as comfortable as possible. The number of kittens that we lose is
small relative to the number that we help; Our foster program allows us to save
hundreds to thousands of kittens each year.
The RSPCA SA has a full employee assistance program that foster carers have full
access to, and your foster care team are ALWAYS here for our foster carers. If you
feel you need to access the program, or just for support, please call your foster care
coordinator.
24Return and Adoption of Foster Cats & Kittens
When your foster cat or kitten(s) is returned to the Society, it is given a health and
behavioural evaluation to assess adoptability.
If a foster cat or kitten becomes ill while in the Adoption Centre and requires
fostering again, the original foster family will be contacted first.
Return of Foster Cats and Kittens to the Shelter
We recognize that returning a foster cat or kitten(s) to the Shelter can be very
emotional, even under the best of circumstances. When polled, foster carers
overwhelmingly said their least favourite part of the Foster Program was returning
the animal and losing contact with it.
Many staff members are also foster carers and are always available to offer
emotional support to you. You are not alone.
The Shelter staff work diligently to place all adoptable animals in a loving home.
RSPCA also works closely with external adoption partners to re-home animals after
desexing.
Privacy laws prohibit the shelter from disclosing the names of foster animal's
adopters.
As foster volunteers, you have given the animals you have cared for
and loved a very special gift
– A second chance at a full and wonderful life.
THANK YOU FOSTER CARERS!!
25Suggestions for Cleaning Procedures
The most common disease organisms seen at the shelter are: viruses, bacteria,
parasites and fungi. It is important to consider all objects with which a foster animal
may come into contact and disinfect accordingly. This will help protect your
companion animals and any future foster animals.
Cleaning Agents
All surfaces may not be easily cleaned, but thorough washing and/or vacuuming
helps in decreasing the numbers of environmental pathogens.
Using bleach as a disinfectant - the recommended dilution is 1 part bleach to 30
parts water (1/4 cup bleach to 1 Litre water). The recommended contact time is 10
minutes. Colour Safe bleach does not disinfect like regular bleach.
Do consider washing animal laundry/washable toys in a separate load from
family laundry. Do not use fabric softeners.
Canestan Laundry Rinse – this is an antibacterial + antifungal liquid that can be used
to wash your own clothes or foster bedding/towels/toys. This can be found in your
local supermarket in the laundry section or some pharmacies.
It is important to read the labels on non-toxic, environmentally friendly products
Cleaning to Remove Pet Odours and Stains
Has your foster cat or kitten left “scent marks” of urination and/or defecation on
your floor or furniture?
To successfully retrain the cat or kitten to avoid these areas and remove these smells
and stains, follow these basic steps:
Washing
1) Machine washes as usual, adding a ½ cup of baking soda to the wash along with
your regular detergent. Air and sun dry, if possible.
262) If you can still see or smell the stain, machine wash again and add an enzymatic
cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s directions carefully. Enzyme cleaners can be
purchased from all supermarkets.
3) To discourage future accidents on bedding, cover the bed with a vinyl, flannel
backed tablecloth. They are machine washable, inexpensive, and unattractive to
the cat or kitten.
For carpeted areas and upholstery
1) Soak up as much urine as possible with a combination of newspaper and paper
towel. The more fresh urine you can remove before it dries, (especially from
carpet), the easier it will be to remove the odour. Place a thick layer of paper
towels on the wet spot and cover with a thick layer of newspaper. Stand on this
padding for about 1 minute. Remove the padding; repeat until the area is barely
damp.
2) If possible, take the FRESH, urine soaked paper towel to the cat’s litter box, and
let the cat or kitten watch you do it. Act happy! This will help to remind the cat
or kitten that eliminating is not bad.
3) Rinse the affected zone thoroughly with CLEAN, COOL WATER. After rinsing,
remove as much of the water as possible by blotting or by using a vacuum
designed to pick up liquids.
4) Neutralizing (enzyme) cleaners will not be effective on the area if you have
previously used other cleaners or chemicals. You must first rinse every trace of
the old cleaner from the carpet.
5) To remove all traces of an old chemical, consider renting an extractor or wet-vac
from a local hardware store. This machine operates much like a vacuum cleaner
and is an efficient, economical rinsing method.
6) Now that the area is clean, use a high quality pet odour neutralizer available at
RSPCA or pet supply stores (look for “enzyme” cleaners). Test the affected
surface for staining first, then read and follow the instructions carefully.
7) If the area still looks stained after it is completely dry from extracting and
neutralizing, try any good carpet stain remover available.
8) If the urine has soaked down into the padding underneath the carpet or into
wooden baseboards, cleaning will be more difficult. You many need to remove
and replace that portion of your carpet padding.
279) Make the appropriate bathroom area attractive to the cat and teach it where you
want it to urinate and defecate. The retraining period may take a week or more.
It took time to build the bad habit, and it will take time to replace that habit with
a new, more acceptable one.
For Floors and Walls
If the wood in furniture, walls, baseboard or floor is discoloured, the acid in the urine
has affected the varnish or paint. The layer of varnish or paint may need to be
removed.
Washable enamel paints and some washable wallpaper may respond favourably to
enzymatic cleaners. Read the instructions carefully and test in a discreet area.
28Safety and Incident Reports
Don't put yourself in a compromising situation with any
animal.
Always practice safe animal handling and disease control.
Report aggressive behaviour
or a bite to the Foster Coordinator.
Checklist for handling a bite incident
Clean and flush the wound immediately with soap and water.
Report the incident to an RSPCA staff member. Please state which animal was
involved and the circumstances of the bite.
See your doctor. Receive tetanus and antibacterial treatment if required. It is
not advised to have sutures or wound closure unless unavoidable.
.
When a Bite is Not Reported
It creates a hazard for others handling that animal. An animal that has
bitten once is usually less inhibited in biting a second time.
29Feline-alities
When the kittens are ready to come back to the shelter and go up for adoption, we
ask that you provide us some key information to help them find their perfect home!
Since you have spent the most time with them, you know them best!
We use a system called ‘Feline-alities’ at the shelter and on Adopt-a-Pet to help
people choose a cat or kitten that will suit them. If you can match up each of your
kittens with one of the personality descriptions and take some happy snaps, we will
upload it to our data base! It helps to detail what they are like with other animals,
children and where you think their ideal home would be.
These uploads are done by a volunteer, so please don’t email them to the foster
team as they may be missed. The correct place is in this album in our Facebook
Group, and follow the link to the behaviour survey.
Please see over the page for a list and full description of the feline-alities.
3031
Kitten Weight Records
AID
Kitten
Name
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
32AID
Kitten
Name
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
Date:
Weight:
33You can also read
