Celebrating the Nation - ROME CITY GUIDE
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JUNE 2 0 2 1
W HER EROME . C OM ROME CITY GUIDE
®
Celebrating
the Nation
June is the month of the 75th Anniversary of Italian Republic
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No. 453, 19 JULY 2010
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
circo
massimo 2021
JUNE 15, 19, 24, 27 GIUSEPPE VERDI
IL TROVATORE
JULY 4, 6
OPERA
CONDUCTOR DANIELE GATTI
DIRECTOR LORENZO MARIANI
JUNE 22, 25, 26, 30 PËTR IL’IČ ČAJKOVSKIJ
SWAN LAKE
JULY 1, 2
HOT DATES
BALLET
CONDUCTOR ANDRIY YURKEVYCH
CHOREOGRAPHER BENJAMIN PECH
JULY 16, 20, 29, 31 GIACOMO PUCCINI
MADAMA BUTTERFLY
AUGUST 6
June
OPERA
CONDUCTOR DONATO RENZETTI
DIRECTOR ÀLEX OLLÉ (LA FURA DELS BAUS)
Music in the park, opera in the ruins, and contemporary art inspired by
JULY 24 GIUSEPPE VERDI
archaeology—June in Rome has something for everyone.
MESSA DA REQUIEM
CONCERT
CRICO MASSIMO STAGIONE ESTIVA DELL’OPERA DI ROMA_PH YASUKO KAGEYAMA -TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA 2020_8157
CONDUCTOR MYUNG-WHUN CHUNG
OPERA AT CIRCUS MAXIMUS
FROM TUESDAY 15
For the second summer in a row, Rome’s national opera company, the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, will swap its regular venue of Teatro Costanzi in JULY 30 GIACOMO PUCCINI
LA BOHÈME
AUGUST 1, 3, 5
favor of the legendary Circus Maximus. The site has the distinction of being the largest public entertainment venue in the ancient world, and as such
OPERA
it can guarantee the size necessary to ensure distance between opera-goers in accordance with the latest anti-Covid regulations. Enormous screens
set up behind the live performers mean that even those spectators at the very back of the audience won’t miss out on the slightest details of the CONDUCTOR JORDI BERNÀCER
staging, set design, and costumes. This month, Verdi’s epic masterwork Il Trovatore goes up inside the ancient racetrack starting on the 15th, but DIRECTOR, SET, COSTUME,
opera is not the only entertainment on the bill. Tchaikovsky’s immortal Swan Lake is interpreted by the opera’s ballet company from the 22nd, and LIGHTING DESIGNER DAVIDE LIVERMORE
Italian singer-songwriter extraordinaire Vinicio Caposella performs live on the 23rd. operaroma.it
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
ORCHESTRA, CHORUS
Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo
EVGENY ANTUFIEV
FROM FRIDAY 11 AND CORPS DE BALLET
The National Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia kicks off a fascinating new exhibit that showcases the work of
Evgeny Antufiev, a Russian contemporary artist whose work is profoundly influenced by Italian archaeology. EX TR A
Dead Nations, Eternal Version explores the concepts of immortality
and regeneration through the archetypes
that have accompanied human existence and imagination in a story that transcends time. And what better
JUNE 23
VINICIO CAPOSSELA
GIARDINI DELLA FILARMONICA_CONCERTO_C MAX PUCCIARIELLO
setting than a museum that is the guardian of the intriguing and, for some, mysterious Etruscan civilization? BESTIARIO D’AMORE
Antufiev artworks, comprised of non-typical, organic materials such as bones, hair, teeth, and skin, aim to
blur the lines between multiple civilizations from East to West, from the Phoenicians to the Greeks to the
Carthaginians, and, in doing so, create something absolutely new: works with hybrid identities, capable
JULY 13, 14, 15
ROBERTO BOLLE
of generating assonances between different worlds and cultures. Reservations required on weekends and
holidays, at least one day in advance. Book at tosc.it.
AND FRIENDS
THE GARDENS OF THE PHILHARMONIC
FROM SUNDAY 13
Every summer, the Accademia Filarmonica Romana moves its concerts to the lush,
tranquil oasis of the Giardini della Filarmonica, just a stone’s throw from Piazza del
Popolo. Music to Love is the theme of this year’s edition, which happens to land on the operaroma.it
bicentenary of the founding of this prestigious music organization. The rich calendar
opens with a family-friendly version of Verdi’s Rigoletto, created by director Manuel Renga
with the aim of introducing young people to opera. Other concerts include the Sollima-
Andaloro duo performing Stravinsky, the L’Astrée ensemble with voice narration by Laura SPONSOR CIRCO MASSIMO 2021 FOUNDERS PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS PATRONS
Torelli, and I Solisti Aquilani interpreting Vivaldi and Piazzolla. There are also concerts
dedicated to the music of a specific country, from Japan to Brazil. filarmonicaromana.org
4 W H E R E R O M E I J U N E 2021
[ I TA L I A N G R A N D T O U R]
Top in Rome SEE
SEE MAP
PAGE
MAP
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9
8
3 4 6 0 13
COLOSSEUM 1 the Four Rivers, which encompasses with the imperious statue of Oceano many more. The Sistine Chapel by Passetto, a passageway used to be a summit of the Campidoglio is located
The Colosseum is the indestructible an Egyptian obelisk and a sculpture of dominating the scene. Make sure to toss Michelangelo is regarded as one of secret escape for the popes. the Basilica of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli,
symbol of the Eternal City and the four river gods. Other two magnificent a coin or two into its famous waters to the major artistic accomplishments of Map C2/3 reachable by a steep staircase counting
largest amphitheatre ever built. It was fountains decorate the piazza: the assure your return to Rome. Map E3 human civilization. Map B2 MOUTH OF TRUTH 0 124 steps. Map D4
used for gladiatorial contests and public fountain of the Moor, and the Fountain SAINT PETER’S BASILICA 6 PANTHEON 8 It is a marble mask which stands PIAZZA DEL POPOLO 12
spectacles such as mock sea battles, of the Neptune. Map D3 The greatest church in the world with art The city only architecturally intact against the left wall of Santa Maria in It is an enormous square architecturally
wild animal hunts, executions, and PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 4 masterpieces including Michelangelo’s monument from classical times, Cosmedin church. As a lie-detector superb and perfectly symmetrical,
reenactments of famous battles. The most famous staircase in the world, Pietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino. constructed by Agrippa in 27 BC from another time, it attracts dominated by an Egyptian obelisk
Map F4 with its sinuous flight of steps (1772). Michelangelo’s mighty silver-blue and rebuilt by Hadrian. The interior thousands of visitors who audaciously and enriched by important churches
ROMAN FORUM 2 Climb the stairs for a fantastic view of dome dominates the grandiose scene, measures 43.4 m in width and height. stick their hand in the mouth. such as the church of Santa Maria del
The heart of Ancient Rome. See the the city and visit the stunning Trinità dei while Bernini’s Colonnade forms the Light and air (and even rain) enter According to legend, a liar who puts Popolo, which boasts masterpieces by
Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, Monti church at the very top. At its feet solemn entrance to the Vatican and the through the opening at the top his hand in the mouth will have it Caravaggio and Pinturicchio.
the House of the Vestal Virgins, and is the graceful Fountain of the Barcaccia Christendom. Map B3 through which the sky pervade the bitten off. Map D5 Map D1
more. Climb the Palatine Hill to find the by Bernini from which begins Via temple. Map D3 CAPITOLINE HILL !
VATICAN MUSEUMS/SISTINE CHAPEL 7 VILLA BORGHESE 13
Domus Flavia and the Museo Palatino. Condotti, the most exclusive shopping The most important museum of Rome CASTEL SANT’ANGELO 9 One of the seven hills of Rome,
The most celebrated and easily accessible
Map E/F4/5 street in Rome. Map E2 with an incomparable collection Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, boasting a piazza, designed by
villa is Villa Borghese on the Pincian hill.
TREVI FOUNTAIN 5 of Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, transformed into a majestic fortress Michelangelo with a bronze copy
PIAZZA NAVONA 3 Take a walk through its intricate gardens
Architect Nicola Salvi’s iconic fountain, Renaissance, and baroque art; works centuries later, now a museum. It is of the equestrian statue of Marcus
One of the most beautiful squares in or go rowing at the romantic Giardino del
celebrating the triumph of waters by Raphael, Caravaggio, Canova, and joined to the Vatican by the famous Aurelius in the middle. On the highest
Rome, it boasts Bernini’s Fountain of Lago. Map D1
6 www.wheretraveler.com 7
14 WW
H E R E R O M E I J U N E 2021
H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2020 w w w. w heretravel er. com 15
WHERE NOW | HOLIDAYS
visitors a sense of being suspended on a lush,
Flight Show airy island, far from the chaos of the sizzling
city. It was clearly no coincidence that this
The most exciting moment of the festivities is
enviable spot was chosen for the site of the
without a doubt when the legendary Italian
summer residence of the popes, the Quirinal
acrobatic aerial team, the Frecce Tricolori,
Palace, named for the hill on which it perches.
flies over the city, red, white, and green
With the unification of Italy in 1861, the palace
smoke trailing behind in perfect unison. All
(and its spectacular garden) passed to the
over town, the roaring plane engines draw
newly minted Italian royal family, and when
people to their windows or balconies, out of
Italy became a republic in 1946 (the very
shops and coffee bars as they try and catch a
event this day celebrates), the palace became
glimpse of the patriotic fliers. The ideal place
the official residence of the Italian president.
to watch the action is Piazza Venezia, but the
The Quirinal Gardens are a botanical treasure
event draws heaving crowds, so be sure to
only to be guessed at for 364 days a year.
come early to secure your spot. The festivities
On 2 June, however, the garden is open to
begin at 9:15am when a wreath is placed
the public free of charge from 3 to 7pm. The
at the Tomb of the Unknown Solder at the
variety of trees is astounding, including palms,
Long Live the
Victor Emmanuel Monument (also known as
magnolias, cycads, boxwoods, laurels, sequoi-
the Altar of the Fatherland), followed by the
as, and many more, and the flowers include
aeronautical spectacle.
rare species like Brazilian trithrinax and Queen
of the Night (which only blooms at night), as
I Love a Parade! well as virtually every kind of rose. Delicate
REPUBLIC!
fountains, ancient marble sculptures, sundials,
Grab a miniature Italian flag and pretend
and symmetrical paths make the space a de-
Bastille Day, Canada Day, the 4th of July… you’re a local for the day, cheering on the
lightful idyll in the middle of a teeming city. As
nearly every country has a special date in members of the armed forces in the military
if the visuals weren’t enough, musicians from
which its citizens shake the dust off their parade along Via dei Fori Imperiali following
military and police bands serenade visitors
patriotic sentiments and celebrate the the Frecce Tricolori flyover. The towering
throughout the afternoon. Be prepared for
glory of their nation. For Italy, that date is ruins of the forums of Caesar, Augustus, and
long lines, but for garden enthusiasts, the wait
the 2nd of June, Festa della Repubblica, Trajan make a dramatic backdrop to the
is worth it. Piazza del Quirinale.
and this year the celebration will be doubly precision and discipline of the soldiers and
exuberant, as 2021 marks the 75th anni- statesmen, who cut dashing figures in true
versary of Italy’s rebirth as a republic. On 2 Italian style. Keep your eyes peeled for Sergio Call Me Madame
June 1946, after the fall of Fascism, Italians Mattarella, President of the Republic, who
Palazzo Madama is another fascinating
voted in a historic referendum to do away gives a speech every year for the occasion.
(and otherwise off-limits) site that is open
with the monarchy. today only. The palace was built at the
Since it’s a national holiday (and one Hidden Garden end of the 15th century over the ruins of
of the most important on the calendar), the ancient Baths of Nero, and has housed
Perhaps the most anticipated event of day is
many tourist sites will be closed for the day, many notable historic figures over the
the chance to get lost in the president’s own
but not to worry! In addition to celebratory centuries. Two of the Renaissance’s most
gardens. The green space was originally a
events, a few rare sites are open to the cunning cardinals called it home (both, no
vineyard (which was in its turn built upon the
This month marks Italy’s 75th public for this day only, giving visitors in
the know the chance to go where most
ruins of the ancient Baths of Constantine and
surprise, went on to become pope), as well
as the infamous Catherine de’ Medici and
the Temple of Quirinus) that was transformed
birthday as a republic. Romans themselves have never set foot.
into a garden at the height of the Renaissance.
later Madama Margarita of Austria—who
Pick one (or more!) of the following ways to married the illegitimate son of Holy Roman
Tiffany Parks offers five ways to commemorate one of Italy’s most patriotic
Due to its position on the peak of the highest
of Rome’s seven hills, the 10-acre oasis gives
Emperor Charles V—and for whom the
holidays. palace was named. Today the imposing
celebrate the occasion. building is the seat of the Italian senate,
hence its elusive status. But on 2 June you
can enjoy a free tour of a dozen richly dec-
orated rooms, each more lavish than the
next. The highlight of the tour is the senate
meeting hall, which features frescoes by
© SHUTTERSTOCK / © UFFICIO STAMPA QUIRINALE
Cesare Maccari depicting four scenes from
the ancient Roman senate. Come early to
avoid long lines. Piazza Madama, 11.
For the Politically Minded
Are you fascinated by the minutiae of
Italian politics? If so—or if you just want an
unusual souvenir of your trip—stop by the
official parliament bookshop, Libreria Arion
Montecitorio. On 2 June you can pick up a
free copy of the Italian Constitution, as well
as a red-white-and-green pin to show your
status as an honorary Italian for the day.
Piazza di Monte Citorio, 59.
8 W H E R E R O M E I J U N E 2021 www.wheretraveler.com 9
WHERE NOW | NATURE
Secret Garden
By Federico Schiaffino
Rome’s Vatican Gardens have recently reopened to
the public, their years in exile making them even more
mysterious and fascinating. The Gardens are, after all,
one of the city’s most beautiful and secluded spots,
and have been for centuries.
The green refuge was first conceived as a place of medi-
tation and rest by the pontiff in 1279, when Pope Nicholas
II moved the papal seat from St. John’s in Lateran back to
St. Peter’s. Within the newly constructed Vatican walls, the
Pope commissioned an orchard and garden replete with
fruits and herbs. The site received a major re-landscaping
at the start of the 16th century under the masterful eye of
artist Donato Bramante who transformed it into a peaceful
oasis where nature, art, and faith converged. Today, the
Gardens cover half of the roughly 44 hectares of the Vatican
City’s grounds. They are composed of both Italian- and
English-style pastures, grottos, fountains, grassy avenues,
and various architectural gems begging to be discovered
(guided walking tours or buses equipped with audio guides
in your language of choice are the way to do it).
The must-see stops of the Gardens, already rich in
countless architectural and natural marvels, surely include
the spiritual heart of the park, the Grotto of Lourdes,
a faithful replica of the Massabielle Grotto in
Vatican Gardens
By Numbers Lourdes, France. A man-made cave fringed
1279 – The year it was founded by a brilliant green mantle of ivy is the
0.23 – Square kilometers of space backdrop for a statue of the Madonna.
39 – Kilometers the fountain’s water travels A day after his appointment as the new
from Lake Bracciano
8 million – Capacity (in liters) of the watering cistern pontiff, Pope Francis visited the Grotto
600 – Age (in years) of the two oldest plants to reflect and pray.
570 – Works of art preserved inside the Gardens Along the medieval Leonine
6500 – Individual plants
300+ – Plant species Walls stands the shrine dedicated to the
46 – Gardeners patron saint of the Vatican Gardens, Saint
99 – Fountains Teresa di Lisieux, immersed in a grove where
10 W H E R E R O M E I J U N E 2021 www.wheretraveler.com 1 1
WHERE NOW | NATURE
various species of palms thrive. Present are the cocos, distinguished by ch-style garden, ornate with camellias, bougainvillea, oleanders, agaves,
their sweet aromatic orange fruits, the elegant Washington palms, and and roses. Continuing along Via dell’Osservatorio, past the imposing
the striking St. Peter’s palm bushes, the only indigenous palm trees araucaria trees from Australia (whose pine cones can reach a diameter
present on Italian soil. of up to 30 centimeters!) is the rocky Stein Garden, rich with a variety of
The Gardens are also home to numerous statues, like a white succulent and xenophilius species. During the warmer months, the cliff
marble sculpture of the Madonna of Guadalupe and the bronze relief bursts to life with colorful blooms.
of the Madonna of Fatima; there is also a bronze statue of St. Peter the In front of Palazzo del Governatorato you’ll stumble across a papal
SHOPPING
Apostle in the Pinecone Courtyard. Spectacular water features abound, crest completely composed of boxwoods and flowers that originate
such as the Fountain of the Frogs, the Fountain of the Eagle, the Foun- from all over the world. The jaw-dropping marvels continue at every
tain of the Sacrament, and the Fountain of the “Galera” in the shape of a corner with the Boschetto Waterfalls, an area left in its natural state to
ship, shooting water from its cannons. recreate the illusion of the countryside, and a labyrinth of hedges (part
A true botanical treasure is the sprawling Italian-style of the previously mentioned Italian garden) where a colony of
IN THE HEART OF ROME
garden, stylistically based on symmetry and geometry, parakeets have built their nests amongst the cedars that
with order reigning over nature. Tidy hedges and border the garden.
boxwoods are trimmed into spheres, without Next to the statue of St. Peter is one of
flowers, very similar to Renaissance topiary art: the very few civilian homes that still exists in
pines, cedars, chestnuts, cypresses, magno- Vatican City, called Casina del Giardiniere, the
lias, holm oaks, African banana trees, Austra- residence of the head of the 46-member YOUR CENTRAL SHOPPING CENTER:
lian araucarias, and Japanese gingkos make
up this stunning “exhibition” that charms
gardening staff that carefully tends to this
extraordinary corner of nature each day.
60 STORES, 1 GYM, 15 RESTAURANTS AND A PANORAMIC TERRACE!
visitors with its beauty and precision. Next Along the path that leads to the highest
to this section of the Gardens looms the part of the Gardens is the Ethiopian College,
Centrale Trasmittente Marconi, from which surrounded by magnolias and araucaria
the great scientist transmitted, for the very trees. After admiring the bell of the Great
first time, a radio message in the presence Jubilee of 2000, passing the avenue where four-
of Pope Pio XI, the first to have believed in the century-old olive trees stand guard, you’ll arrive at
validity of Marconi’s revolutionary discovery. the San Giovanni Tower, once a defense stronghold, 10 MINUTES WALK FROM THE VATICAN
Equally beautiful is the refined baroque Fren- which now hosts illustrious guests of the pope. Ottaviano Cipro VALLE AURELIA
Metro A
WANT TO VISIT? St. Peter’s Basilica Vatican Museum
Bespoke Tours organizes an in-depth tour of the Vatican Gardens that lasts roughly two hours. The tour covers the top features of the elusive oasis, including the Eagle Fountain, the
residence of Pope Benedict XVI, the Grotto of Lourdes, and the heliport along Viale degli Ulivi that stretches to Casina Pia. For more information, check out bespoketours.it.
Via di Valle Aurelia - Roma. Centrocommercialeaura.it
12 W H E R E R O M E I J U N E 2021
©SERGUEI_2K@FLICKR ©IBISCOS27@FLICKR
THE PORTALS OF
SANTA MARIA
WHERE NOW | ART DEGLI ANGELI
DVD BRAMHALL@FLICKR
Forget Michelangelo and Bernini! Take
a Mitoraj-themed tour across Italy to
find a number of the great artists most
celebrated masterpieces.
o Tivoli: In this town, famous for
Renaissance Villa d’Este and ancient Villa
Adriana, the last thing you’d expect to see
is a work of contemporary statuary placed
in the central square. But that’s exactly
what you’ll find in Piazza Trento, right in
front of the entrance to Villa d’Este. The
work in marble, entitled A Broken Kiss, is
part of a fountain that evokes the unstop-
pable passage of time.
o Osio Sotto: Since 2007, one of Mi-
ST.JOHN THE BAPTIST toraj’s major works has been on display in
a piazza in the charming medieval town
BELOW: THE GODDESS ROMA
OF PALAZZO MIGNANELLI of Osio Sotto. The work, Sleeping Osiris, is
©ZINGARO@FLICKR
a memorial to those who sacrificed their
The Myth of Mitoraj
lives for Italy.
THE FOUNTAIN o Florence: In the proverbial cradle
OF THE GODDESS
of the Renaissance, you can nevertheless
ROMA
find a few select works of contemporary
art, including Mitoraj’s enormous Cracked
Artist Igor Mitoraj embodied all the fascina- found in Rome, although, being little publicized, that one never goes to Rome for the first time; above and Mary below listening. The diffused back- Tyndareus, located in the Boboli Gardens.
tion of classical myth. “I carve blindfolded heads, they belong to a part of the city that is still to one only returns. Because Rome is a myth that ground allows the viewer a glimpse of the world as The crumbling, disembodied face of the
bound bodies,” he said. “To me, the bandages discover. In Piazza Montegrappa, at the far end lives in the universal imagination. I arrive there, seen from above. A few figures scattered around work depicts both strength and fragility.
represent a kind of protection from a hostile of Viale Mazzini, we find his sculpture of the and I contemplate it, and invariably I find it beau- the work represent the presence of the angels: the o Pietrasanta: This tiny town in
reality. It’s a symbol of survival, a chance to live goddess Roma, created, in his words, “as an act of tiful, with a beauty so absolute as to be, at times, heads of disembodied angels, sometimes blindfol- Tuscany, famous for its marble quarries,
in the myth.” love for the city of arches and temples,” made of painful. Standing before its perfections, which ded. The opposite door depicts the Risen Christ: a was Mitoraj’s home base in Italy. Like the
A great connoisseur of the classical world, Travertine, the very same material that made up can be found both in wonder as in chaos, a great figure with the signs of crucifixion on his body, to great Michelangelo before him, he was
Igor Mitoraj took inspiration for his works from the many buildings and bridges of ancient Rome. spiritual comfort comes over me. Roma subdues emphasize that life is inseparable from suffering, inspired simply by being in the presence
Dicover the truly easily recognizable mythological characters: Eros, The goddess, depicted among the ferns and me. When we say 'Eternal City,' we are right. Rome yet at the same time, surpassed by the resurrection. of this raw material of choice. Throughout
Venus, Icarus, the Centaurs, and sculpted them pines of Rome, presents a bandageless face, her will never die.” Also here, random figures represent the martyrs, his career, the artist donated several works
secret side of Rome into the shape of broken artifacts—in fact, none of
his pieces is entirely intact. They are fragmented,
wide-opened eyes turned toward the Tiber and
the city. The goddess takes the form of a fountain:
Mitoraj carved angels and gods, athletes and
heroes. These figures, these “wounded giants”
disfigured by torture.
Another astounding work, a piece from the pri-
to the city, most notably, The Annunciation,
a bronze bas-relief lunette placed above
by exploring the cracked, and wounded images, complemented
by empty spaces that stimulate the imagination
“water runs through her as memories run through
us. On her face, which is slowly becoming crusted
often take the form of tattered bodies that refer
to the utopia of the “whole man.” A few of his ma-
vate collection of the Valentino brand, is on display
in the courtyard of Palazzo Mignanelli, historic seat
the door of Sant-Agostino Church, visible
from Piazza Duomo.
"classically modern" of the viewer to fill in the missing pieces. The great
sculptor, who died in 2014, was the Polish son of a
over with sediments and deposits, we can see
time passing.”
sterpieces can be found here in Rome, such as the
Head of St. John the Baptist donated by the artist to
of the fashion powerhouse. A large enigmatic face,
created as part of a fountain, the Goddess Roma
o Pompeii: 30 of the great artist's
colossal bronze works are on display
works of Igor Mitoraj. French father who spent most of his life between
Paris and Tuscany, but nevertheless, his heart
He loved to describe how he “learned about
Rome at a very young age. My teacher, Tadeusz
the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli on occasion
of the inauguration of its new bronze doors in
embodies time, one of Mitoraj’s favorite themes.
“Water flows like our memories... like our days that
temporarily in the magnificent ruins of
Pompeii, reflecting the ruined nature of
belonged in classical Greece and Rome. Kantor, and I used to talk for hours. And I imagi- 2006. There are two entrances to the basilica, each run across this face.” But in Rome, the Eternal City, the abandoned city. The exhibit runs until
Some important works by Mitoraj can be ned… I imagined… Borges is right when he says made up of a set of double doors. One of the two which lives in its own timeless dimension, seconds 8 January. www.pompeiisites.org
bronze doors depicts the Annunciation: an angel tick by in a different way.
14 W H E R E R O M E I J U N E 2021 w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. co m 15
WHERE NOW | DESIGN
Gone are the virtuosic techniques and technologies gonists in the past decades, are now taking a backseat
of what could be described as true deconstructivism, to organic materials like wood. Wood isn’t used just as a
most notably in the works of the last generation’s greatest structural element; it’s also being utilized in wooden panels
architects, namely Zaha Hadid (Rome’s MAXXI Museum), that adorn already existing buildings, frangisole (French-sty-
Frank Gehry (Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum), Daniel le external sun blinds), and added-on decks and terraces.
Libeskind (Berlin’s Jewish Museum), Rem Koolhaas (Seattle Interior design is also welcoming similar bents, both in
Central Library), and Peter Eisenman (Berlin’s Halocaust private and public spaces. From wood and bamboo floors
Memorial). In their place, the principal trend popping up to upholstery in natural fibers and fabrics, from home
in the architecture of the last few years is fueled by an accessories to textiles and design objects—the scents of
eco-friendly and environmentalist concept. This new style wood and natural materials are ever more present in the
welcomes strategies that help preserve and even improve modern home.
the environment, both from a technical standpoint (using When it comes to formal interiors, vintage is back, but
passive power and zero carbon emissions, for example), this time revisited in a contemporary key. Industrial style
as well as when it comes to the materials used (bamboo, is also in fashion, but updated with geometric shapes,
minerals, wood, etc). striking a perfect balance between retro and minimalist.
The most remarkable example of this is architect Still, the importance of bringing the outdoors in remains
Stefano Boeri’s Bosco Verticale or Vertical Forest, a the number one trend of the season.
pair of residential skyscrapers in Milan that, at Another tendency can be seen in the size of
“The
first glance, appear to be made more of plants
than of concrete or glass. The architectural
outdoors the windows, particularly those overlooking
gardens, lawns, or other vegetation; they are
masterpiece, which immediately calls to mind
has invaded the becoming larger so as to create a continuity
interior of the
two imposing trees, embodies the concept between the exterior and the interior. So pre-
home and become
of a fusion between habitat and nature, an integral part valent is the idea of bringing the garden right
with vegetation sprouting from asymmetrical of it.” into the home, that it’s no longer a surprise to
balconies on each floor and corner of the two see moss and lichen creeping along the ceiling.
tall buildings. The Bosco Verticale has had such an While once it was a novelty to bring the indoors out-
impact on the city in fact, that it’s been chosen as the new side, decorating terraces with rugs and over-stuffed sofas,
symbol of Milan. The Bosco perfectly encapsulates this rise we are now doing the opposite: experiencing the indoors
in organic architecture, as well as the trends that embrace as if it were a garden itself. The outdoors has invaded the
the environment and are even zero-energy. All this repre- interior of the home and become an integral part of it, a
sents an approach to nature in all its forms, be they visual, concept that creates a seemingly limitless space, without
auditory, or tactile. confines or restrictions. And that’s exactly what humanity
Other noticeable developments include urban gardens seems to aspire to lately: an intolerance for barriers of any
and hanging vegetable plots, which easily allow us bring kind, be they social, cultural, or physical; the absence of
the countryside indoors, something highly needed in the borders interpreted as an absence of rules.
lifelessness of the cement jungle in which so many reside. And this, in essence, is architecture: the coming together
Today’s architecture and design are thus living, breathing, of multiple facets of the current moment, to find paths
dynamic, constantly transforming, and existing in symbio- of resolution that can create a connected ideal of beauty.
sis with those who reside within. Today we find it in nature, in its promotion, enhancement
Steel, glass, and cement, while major design prota- and preservation, and in its lack of limits.
Italy by Design
Emanuela Vallarino shares Above: Mobilnovo.
the inside scoop on Italy’s Left: Mobilnovo.
ever-changing design scene. Right: Frattali.
A
rchitecture and design are constantly in motion, dynamic, and
subject to the latest trends of the moment. So what can we
expect right now from architecture’s tendencies? The current
interior design scene is moving away from the stark, minimalist looks so
popular in the past decade, and embracing instead a return to the past,
to the natural and the familiar. The same is true for architecture, as we
see its most prevalent language leaving behind the modern and the
technological (think cold, sterile materials like steel and glass) to adopt
a softer and more natural approach, utilizing instead warmer and more
opaque materials such as wood and minerals.
16 W H E R E R O M E I J U N E 2021 w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. co m 17[AURA]
Urban Art Meets Shopping
The street art of Diavù at the AURA shopping center
in Valle Aurelia
T
he AURA shopping center, located Proietti embellishes the travertine steps “I would define this project as a re- Via di Campo Marzio 13 - Tel +39 06 6833668
in the Valle Aurelia district just that welcome visitors to the center. It’s birth for the AURA shopping center, and
monocle.it
north of the Vatican, has become a tribute to art in all its forms, but also for the surrounding community, after this
the latest hub of Rome’s street art cul- AURA’s gift to the entire neighborhood. long difficult period that has affected our
ture, which has been revitalizing Rome’s “The choice of the image of Gigi Proietti daily lives,” says AURA director Fabrizio Di
outskirts. is linked to the area where the steps Bella. “Gigi Proietti’s big smile represents
The shopping mall is promoting the of the Fornace are located, near Vati- the positivity and warmth with which JACQUES MARIE MAGE - KUBORAUM - AHLEM - THOM BROWNE
new artistic project by David “Diavù” can City, St. Peter’s Basilica, and Castel we welcome our visitors. The project was
8000 EYEWEAR - DITA - LINDA FARROW
Vecchiato, founder and curator of M.U.Ro. Sant’Angelo—places strongly connected born thanks to the teamwork of Svicom,
(Museum of Urban Art in Rome). The to some of the characters played by the the management company of the AURA MYKITA - MATSUDA - CLAUSTRUM - MEO FUSCIUNI PARFUM
project is inspired by the iconic staircase actor, such Gaetanaccio of La Commedia shopping center, and Forum Real Estate
of the nearby Trionfale Market, painted di Gaetanaccio and Tiberino of The Seven Management, the asset manager of the
by the artist himself and depicting the Kings of Rome, the stars of the sketches center, and of course none of it could
immortal Italian actress Anna Magnani. I proposed for the AURA staircase,” says have been possible without Diavù’s
The new work is featured on the longest the artist Diavù. Thanks to a poll held extraordinary creativity.”
stairway leading to the AURA shopping
center, located near the historic Fornace
on AURA’s social media sites, Gaetanac-
cio was voted to be the subject of the
> Viale di Valle Aurelia, 30.
Tel 0639751750. HANDMADE EYEWEAR & ACCESSORIES
Veschi, and the face of iconic actor Gigi impressive new work of art. centrocommercialeaura.it
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A
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Where to find them the process of being reborn.
This prestigious department store offers
technological gadgetry. This is where you
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serves dishes that star exclusively served section of the Aqua Virgo aque- on the first floor up. Men’s fashion, footwear, Tel 06879161. Mon–Sun, 10am–11pm.
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5. Tel 0689385111. carshoe.com Map D3 hogan.com Map E2 tods.com Map E2
Euro US UK
Babuino are also must-see CARTIER Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7pm; JIMMY CHOO Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm; TOM FORD FOR MEN (GENTE) Open daily, 44 34 34
Sunday 11am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 82/83. Sun, 11am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 68a. 10:30am–7:30pm. Via del Babuino, 185.
spots for fashion mavens. Tel 06696751. cartier.com Map E2 Tel 0669922667. jimmychoo.com Map E2 Tel 063226975. tomford.com Map E2
46 36 36
48 38 38
CÉLINE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm. LORO PIANA Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30-pm; TRUSSARDI Open daily, 10am–7:30pm.
Via dei Condotti, 20a. Tel 066787594. Sun, 11am–2pm and 3pm–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 50 40 40
Via Frattina, 42/43. Tel 0669380939.
celine.com Map E2 24. Tel 0669924906. loropiana.com Map D2 trussardi.com Map E2 52 42 42
CHANEL Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm. LOUIS VUITTON Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; 54 44 44
VALENTINO Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm;
Piazza di Spagna, 85. Tel 0669769999. Sun, 11am–7:30pm. Piazza di S. Lorenzo in Lucina, Sun 10am–7pm. Piazza di Spagna, 38. Tel
chanel.com Map E2 41. Tel 0668809520. Map D3. Via dei Condotti, 0694515710. valentino.com Map E2 Men shoes
13. Tel 0669940000. Map E2 louisvuitton.com
CHURCH’S Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Open Mon–Sat, 10am– Euro US UK
10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 57. Tel 0669190920. Fendi’s MAX & CO Open daily, 10am–8pm. Via dei
7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 15. 41 8 7
church-footwear.com Map E2 spring look is Condotti, 46. Tel 066787946. maxandco.com
Tel 069025481. vancleefarpels.com Map E2
all about light, Map E2 42 9 8
DAMIANI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm. Via dei VERSACE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun,
wearable materials 43 10 9
Condotti, 84. Tel 0669200477. damiani.com MAX MARA Open daily, 10am–8pm. Via dei
in a neutral 10:30am–7:30pm. Piazza di Spagna, 12.
Map E2 Condotti, 17/19. Tel 0669922104. maxmara.com
Tel 066780521. versace.com Map E2
45 11 10
palette. Map E2
DIOR Open daily, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 46 12 11
These posh two-toned pumps by Prada ZILLI Open Mon–Sat, 9:30am–7:30pm; Sun,
combine the elegance of the past with the 1–4. Tel 0669924489. (Women’s). Piazza di MICHAEL KORS Open daily, 10am–8pm. Via dei
10:30am–6:30pm. Via Vittorio Veneto, 144.
47 13 12
Spagna, 70/71. Tel 0669190944. dior.com Condotti, 36. Tel 0669941372. michaelkors.com
design of the future. Tel 06486972. zilli.com Map F2
Map E2 Map E2
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