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M AY 2 0 2 1
W HER EROME . C OM ROME CITY GUIDE
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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936® WELCOME TO ITALY
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As we are sure you are well aware, due to the spread of the Coronavirus, all M A G A Z I N E
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www.wheremilan.com We’ve been here for centuries. We’re waiting for you.
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PUBLISHER
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WHERE 7 - Rome, Italy 00145 A message from the most beautiful country in the world.
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PUBLISHER
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Phone: Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano.
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as of 10 March 2020, extending atevents,
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SALES & MARKETING Fax: 065781755
COORDINATOR The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the
Il settore del turismo ha sofferto più di tutti ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION
concerts, plays,
have been cancelled.exhibits, sporting events, performances, and other events Danilo
SALES
Brunetti
ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION
& MARKETING
PUBLISHER COORDINATOR
AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
della d.brunetti@touristmedia.it global economy – the tourism industry. The current lockdown, closing
have
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hopeful that by 3recente pandemia.
April these I lockdown,
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Danilo
SALES Jarach
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MARKETING COORDINATOR
andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com
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ACCOUNTBrunetti
AND CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT
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lifted,
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sites and travelers
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ACCOUNT AND CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT
wheremark@touristmedia.it
Pierfrancesco
M.Angela
ACCOUNT Coreno
di Pietro
AND CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT editorial could be very depressing, but remember we’re talking about
Publisher
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Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout
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ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT
MANAGING EDITOR
Rita De Lillo, DEPARTMENT
Filly di Somma, Antonio
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
have
bring, produced
and
timewe
at thepreferita our April 2020
therefore cannot
of publishing, issue, just
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Renna, history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics,
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Rita De Lillo, FillyPino
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Antonio
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and we will gocannot
therefore on as scheduled.
guarantee events and exhibits ROME
Rita DeEDITORIAL
Benedetti Lillo, FillyDEPARTMENT/PRODUCTION
di Somma, Antonio and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the
bring, and we therefore cannot guarantee that the events and exhibits CONTRIBUTORS
guerre,
listedcarestie, epidemie
in this issue will goeon
infinite volte tornata ad essere il Paese più
as scheduled. Benedetti
EDITOREDITORIAL
ROME IN CHIEF DEPARTMENT/PRODUCTION
Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana
listed in this issue will go on as scheduled. M.Angela Di Pietro most desirable tourist destination in the world.
We thank you
desiderato al mondo. for understanding and we appreciate your continued ROME EDITORIAL
di Maio,
EDITOR Elisabetta
IN CHIEF DEPARTMENT/PRODUCTION
Giudici, Joy Lacanlale,
whereadmini@touristmedia.it
Fabio IN
Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata,
support
We thankofyouItaly.
for understanding and we appreciate your continued M.Angela
EDITOR Di Pietro
CHIEF
EDITORIAL
M.Angela MANAGER
Chiara Zaccarelli
Di Pietro
whereadmini@touristmedia.it
We thankofyou
support for understanding and we appreciate your continued
Italy. Federico Schiaffino Every night is followed by a new dawn, and if you look carefully you
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Editorial
Dopo of Italy.
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Rome CONTRIBUTING
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MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS
REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010
Turin by Proedi Comunicazione.
EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455
CHAIRMAN
MORRIS
DIRETTORE COMMUNICATIONS
RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH
So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge
E adesso caro visitatore ti aspettiamo orgogliosi della nostra Italia, PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA
William
MORRIS S. Morris
COMMUNICATIONSIII 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)
LOCALITÀ PONTE
CHAIRMAN FORMELLO, of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our
accoglienti, e decisi a offrirti una esperienza unica che nei secoli milioni CHAIRMAN
William
PRESIDENT
Although the S. publisher
Morris
AND CEO IIImade every effort to include copyright
has
Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique
William S. Morris III
credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions,
we would like to IV
apologize
PRESIDENT AND CEOto the copyright holders in question whose
di viaggiatori hanno ricercato. Dopo la pestilenza del Medio Evo arrivò il names will be published in the next issue.
PRESIDENT
William AND CEO
S. Morris experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember
MVP EXECUTIVE
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Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
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MANAGING GIFT FROM
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CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III Rome
6 W H E R E R O M E I A P R I L 2020
PRESIDENT
Photo William
& CEOby
cover: Photo DarrenS.Flinders/Flickr.com
Morris IV
6 W H E R E R O M E I A P R I L 2020
6 W H E R E R O M E I A P R I L 2020
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
HOT DATES May
CONTEMPORARY ART MEETS AI
WEDNESDAY 5 TO SUNDAY 30
What is the relationship between a wool and silk tapestry, a
generative algorithm, and the extinction of tigers? How can
you think up new forms of social relations by studying coral
reefs through deep learning? Where is the line between the
humanization of the machine and the dehumanization of the
individual? A new collective exhibition at the MAXXI museum
reflects on these and many more questions in an exploration of
the relationship between Artificial Intelligence and contemporary
art. Re: Define the Boundaries features ten works by the finalists of the Re:
RHINOCEROS GALLERY - RAFFAELE CURI, DANTE IN A PRIVATE DREAM OF RAFFAELE CURI, INSTALLATION VIEW - © SIMONE LIBERANOME
Humanism Art Prize. The artists explore such concepts as body and identity
in the era of Artificial Intelligence and the political implications that follow, the
new ways of producing knowledge and the changes introduced by robotics and
machine learning, and the definition of an anthropological approach to AI and visions
on the future of our planet. maxxi.art
A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM
SUNDAY 2
Shakespeare’s decadent and delightful comedy is reinterpreted with
classical music and dance at Rome’s Teatro Nazionale. While museums
have now reopened, most live performances are unfortunately still taking
place in empty concert halls. But Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera is leading the
way in their innovative and dynamic approach to presenting their live
performances to the public by way of a digital medium. Set to the music
of Felix Mendelssohn, the ballet strikes the perfect balance between the
MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM © YASUKO KAGEYAMA, TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA.
exquisite and ethereal beauty of classical dance and the irreverent and
raucous entertainment that Shakespeare’s comedies are famous for.
The choreography and staging are by Alessandra Delle Monache with
set design by Michele Della Cioppa, and the stars of the show are all
advanced students from the opera company’s prestigious ballet school.
Free live streaming of the performance on YouTube at 8pm, just search
for Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. LUZZANA_OBJECT ORIENTED CHOREOGRAPHY (OOC).
DANTE
ALL MONTH
This is Dante as you’ve never seen him before. A radioactive and
hyper-contemporary Dante Alighieri is the star of a new rock opera
presented at the Rhinoceros Gallery, a mecca of contemporary
art designed by Jean Nouvel for the Alda Fendi Foundation –
Experiments and the Accademia della Crusca. This surprising,
terrifying, and dazzling installation comes from the imagination of
Raffaele Curi, artistic director of the foundation, and celebrates 700
years since the death of the Supreme Poet this year. The engaging,
immersive, and thoroughly original reinterpretation of The Divine
Comedy combines electronic music and 15th-century miniatures by
Giovanni di Paolo, exploring ecological themes and taking a journey
through unknown words and worlds, to discover the beauty of the
Italian language. Be sure to bring your sunglasses. Via dei Cerchi, 19.
Reservations obligatory: info@rhinocerosgallery.com. Free entry.
4 W H E R E R O M E I M AY 2021
[ I TA L I A N G R A N D T O U R]
Top in Rome SEE
SEE MAP
PAGE
MAP
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9
8
3 4 6 0 13
COLOSSEUM 1 the Four Rivers, which encompasses with the imperious statue of Oceano many more. The Sistine Chapel by Passetto, a passageway used to be a summit of the Campidoglio is located
The Colosseum is the indestructible an Egyptian obelisk and a sculpture of dominating the scene. Make sure to toss Michelangelo is regarded as one of secret escape for the popes. the Basilica of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli,
symbol of the Eternal City and the four river gods. Other two magnificent a coin or two into its famous waters to the major artistic accomplishments of Map C2/3 reachable by a steep staircase counting
largest amphitheatre ever built. It was fountains decorate the piazza: the assure your return to Rome. Map E3 human civilization. Map B2 MOUTH OF TRUTH 0 124 steps. Map D4
used for gladiatorial contests and public fountain of the Moor, and the Fountain SAINT PETER’S BASILICA 6 PANTHEON 8 It is a marble mask which stands PIAZZA DEL POPOLO 12
spectacles such as mock sea battles, of the Neptune. Map D3 The greatest church in the world with art The city only architecturally intact against the left wall of Santa Maria in It is an enormous square architecturally
wild animal hunts, executions, and PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 4 masterpieces including Michelangelo’s monument from classical times, Cosmedin church. As a lie-detector superb and perfectly symmetrical,
reenactments of famous battles. The most famous staircase in the world, Pietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino. constructed by Agrippa in 27 BC from another time, it attracts dominated by an Egyptian obelisk
Map F4 with its sinuous flight of steps (1772). Michelangelo’s mighty silver-blue and rebuilt by Hadrian. The interior thousands of visitors who audaciously and enriched by important churches
ROMAN FORUM 2 Climb the stairs for a fantastic view of dome dominates the grandiose scene, measures 43.4 m in width and height. stick their hand in the mouth. such as the church of Santa Maria del
The heart of Ancient Rome. See the the city and visit the stunning Trinità dei while Bernini’s Colonnade forms the Light and air (and even rain) enter According to legend, a liar who puts Popolo, which boasts masterpieces by
Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, Monti church at the very top. At its feet solemn entrance to the Vatican and the through the opening at the top his hand in the mouth will have it Caravaggio and Pinturicchio.
the House of the Vestal Virgins, and is the graceful Fountain of the Barcaccia Christendom. Map B3 through which the sky pervade the bitten off. Map D5 Map D1
more. Climb the Palatine Hill to find the by Bernini from which begins Via temple. Map D3 CAPITOLINE HILL !
VATICAN MUSEUMS/SISTINE CHAPEL 7 VILLA BORGHESE 13
Domus Flavia and the Museo Palatino. Condotti, the most exclusive shopping The most important museum of Rome CASTEL SANT’ANGELO 9 One of the seven hills of Rome,
The most celebrated and easily accessible
Map E/F4/5 street in Rome. Map E2 with an incomparable collection Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, boasting a piazza, designed by
villa is Villa Borghese on the Pincian hill.
TREVI FOUNTAIN 5 of Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, transformed into a majestic fortress Michelangelo with a bronze copy
PIAZZA NAVONA 3 Take a walk through its intricate gardens
Architect Nicola Salvi’s iconic fountain, Renaissance, and baroque art; works centuries later, now a museum. It is of the equestrian statue of Marcus
One of the most beautiful squares in or go rowing at the romantic Giardino del
celebrating the triumph of waters by Raphael, Caravaggio, Canova, and joined to the Vatican by the famous Aurelius in the middle. On the highest
Rome, it boasts Bernini’s Fountain of Lago. Map D1
6 www.wheretraveler.com 7
14 WW
H E R E R O M E I M AY 2021
H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2020 w w w. w heretravel er. com 15
WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING
A Matter of Taste
THE "PALAZZACCIO"
Despite Rome’s reputation as an eternally beau-
tiful city, it has its fair share of hotly debated,
controversial monuments. Tacky or tasteful?
Ugly or avant-garde? Federico Schiaffino
leaves the choice up to you.
© MAGGIE ANDRESEN
THE FACADE OF
THE "MINI-DUOMO"
A few years ago, American news channel CNN compiled a list of mouthpiece, said the sculpture’s head was “excessively round” and call it “the typewriter” for its square shape, while others have nicknamed it “the wedding
the world's top 10 ugliest monuments. To the surprise of many, that it was an indistinct monument rather than an unmistakable cake.” Romans find it distracting and com- pletely out of place when compared to its
eighth place went to one of Italy’s recently unveiled works, ironic homage to John Paul II. Rainaldi, meanwhile, maintains his pride ancient neighbors like the Colosseum and Pantheon. Nonetheless, the monument is
in a country nicknamed “The Great Beauty.” The subject in the piece, despite making a few modifications to it in generally well received by visitors to the city.
in question was artist Oliviero Rainaldi’s statue of order to pacify critics. So why is the sculpture a mas-
The seat of the city’s Palace of Justice, or Supreme Court (Piazza dei Tribunali) also
Pope John Paul II entitled Conversazioni. The terpiece to some, and a failed tribute to others?
elicits debate. Designed by Perugian architect Guglielmo Calderini and inaugurated in 1910,
16-foot bronze sculpture, which stands outside Who decides the aesthetic value of a work? As
the Palace was intended to be one of the grandest additions to the city skyline, follow-
Rome's central train station, Termini, depicts the ancient Greeks said, “beauty is in the eye
ing the proclamation of Rome as the capital of the Kingdom of Italy. Its unusually large
the late leader of the Catholic Church in of the beholder,” a philosophy that holds true
size, excessive decoration, and its lengthy construction led to suspicions of corruption,
an ecclesiastical robe with his arms out- to many of Rome’s monuments, palazzi, and
and in 1912, a parliamentary commission be- gan official inquiries. The investigation gave
stretched in welcome. Its debut was swiftly artworks.
rise to the building's popular and pejorative nickname of the Palazzaccio (Bad Palace). The
met with controversy: while the mayor of The Vittoriano Complex (Piazza Venezia) is Palace has also experienced its fair share of bad luck: due to its sheer size, it quickly began
Rome described the work as “modern and without a doubt the city’s most contentious to sink into the surrounding ground shortly after its inauguration. Some say that Calderini
evocative,” the public was dismayed at its piece of architecture. Found in the very heart was so distraught by his masterpiece’s failure that he even considered suicide. Admirers of
lack of resemblance to the Polish pope. Even of historic Rome, the Vittoriano is an enormous,
THE "BABOON" FOUNTAIN the Palazzaccio, however, recognize it for its artistic merit, particularly the solemn statues
the L’Osservatore Romano, the Holy See’s official bright, white building that locals love to hate. Some of the jurists that line its front, and its bronze sculptures of horse-drawn carriages.
8 W H E R E R O M E I M AY 2021 www.wheretraveler.com 9
WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING
THE VITTORIANO COMPLEX
THE BEETLE-SHAPED AUDITORIUM
Not far from the Palazzaccio is the Sacro perspective, its aesthetic (for some) leaves
Cuore del Suffragio (Via Ulpiano, 29) a much to be desired. Its shape has elicited
church that, like its neighbor, gets mixed comparisons to a beetle, turtle, and even
THE “RIDICULOUS" MOSES
reviews. This chiesa is mainly criticized for its a computer mouse. Both the Ara Pacis and
incongruence with the surrounding architec- the Auditorium, however, illustrate Rome’s
ture. While the church’s aesthetic is intricate effort to inject innovation into a city that is
and elaborate, earning it the title of the “Milan mini-duomo,” the rest known for its conservative values and ancient attractions.
of the quarter’s buildings and structures are undeniably urban. After An honorable mention also goes to Italian sculptor Arnaldo
assessing Sacro Cuore’s exterior for yourself, judge what you find Pomodoro’s Novecento (Piazzale Pier Luigi Nervi), a bronze,
inside, too: tucked away in the back of the church is the Museum of spiraled obelisk located in the EUR neighborhood. In interviews,
the Holy Souls in Purgatory. This tiny, century-old exhibition holds a Pomodoro explained that his inspiration for the work came from
strange collection of prayer books, clothing, and furniture, allegedly Bernini and Borromini, and that the details and ascending move-
singed by the hands of souls in Limbo. French missionary and avid ment of his sculpture paid tribute to their extraordinary genius.
collector Victor Jouet was inspired to open the museum after a fire Despite his classic influences, Novecento is considered too mod-
destroyed a portion of the church, leaving behind a scorched image ern for many locals, with some even referring to the sculpture as
of a face he believed to be a trapped soul… the “the splinter.” That’s not to say Rome’s ancient works are safe
Unsurprisingly, Rome’s contemporary monuments are also heavily from public opinion. The talking statues of Rome are a series of
debated. Opened in 2006, the Museum of the Ara Pacis (Lun- sculptures that were utilized as an outlet for anonymous, political
gotevere in Augusta) is a prime example. American sculptor Rich- criticism in 16 th -century Rome and beyond. Notes of protest were
ard Meier was chosen to conceive a structure that would house attached to the statues, which in turn served as early “bulletin
the Ara Pacis Augustae, a 9 BC altar commissioned by the Roman boards." The Pasquino (Piazza Pasquino) is a weathered, scarred
senate to honor the return of Augustus. Meier’s travertine, steel, sculpture that is believed to be a depiction of the Spartan king
Via di Campo Marzio 13 - Tel +39 06 6833668
glass, and plaster design is the first architecturally urban structure Menelaus. Regardless of its history and antiquity, Romans com-
in the historic center since the Fascist era. Its most notable plain that it’s an eyesore. Another of the talking statues is monocle.it
features are its wide, glazed, surfaces, which allow known as the Babuino (besides S. Atanasio dei Gre-
visitors to admire the Ara Pacis with uniform ci Church in Via del Babuino) or the “baboon”
lighting conditions. The building immediately for its ugly and misshapen features. But the
sparked discussion: the New York Times most striking case is the infamous "ridic- JACQUES MARIE MAGE - KUBORAUM - AHLEM - THOM BROWNE
described it as a “flop,” while famed art ulous" Moses that stands in the central
critic Achille Bonito Oliva praised its slot of the Fontana dell’Acqua Felice 8000 EYEWEAR - DITA - LINDA FARROW
innovation. Architect Renzo Piano’s by Prospero Antichi. The statue, which
avant-Garde public music complex, seeks to imitate a Michelangelo-esque
MYKITA - MATSUDA - CLAUSTRUM - MEO FUSCIUNI PARFUM
Auditorium Parco della Musica (Via P. model, comes off as both stocky and
de Coubertin, 30) was officially opened out of place. The grandeur of the near-
in 2002, and has intrigued locals and by fountain only emphasizes the piece's
tourists alike ever since. A few years after disharmony, furthered by an additional
its inauguration, the PDM became Europe’s two tiny obelisks of no real effect.
most visited music facility, viewed by roughly
one million spectators in one year alone. While
Belli o brutti? You decide.
HANDMADE EYEWEAR & ACCESSORIES
the structure’s architecture is ideal from a musical THE STATUE OF POPE JOHN PAUL II
10 W H E R E R O M E I M AY 2021
WHERE NOW | ART
Secrets Behind the Art
By Tiffany Parks
O
n a typical visit to Rome, the aver- figures that make clear outlines of specif-
age tourist sees dozens if not hun- ic parts of the organ. Michelangelo was
dreds of works of art. But beyond known to have dissected human corpses in
the subject matter, the genius of the artist, secret, although this was strictly forbidden
the colors and techniques used, and the by the church at the time.
sheer beauty of Rome’s countless master-
pieces, have you ever wondered: is there In the same chapel there is a much
something behind the art? In truth, there smaller and more obscure message that
are several works of art in Rome that hide Michelangelo included in his masterpiece.
secrets within their strokes. Some are cryp- The detail can be found on the spandrel
tic messages, some are religious commen- that features the Cumean Sibyl. Contrast-
tary, and some are simply obscure symbol- ing with the other sibyls, who are all
ism that only the artist can decode. Read young and some strikingly beautiful, the
on for seven of the most fascinating, and Cumean Sibyl is a hag with a lined face
then go see them with newly opened eyes. and a manly body. This choice might
have been a deliberate slight to Pope Julius II, the pontiff who
Much of Rome’s art that holds secret meanings can be found commissioned the chapel ceiling and was the bane of Michel-
inside the Vatican Museums, which is no surprise considering the angelo’s existence. Julius II claimed that when the Cumean Sibyl
mysterious nature of the place. Perhaps the most famous is the Vati- had prophesized the coming of a savior, she was talking about
can’s number-one sight, The Creation of Adam, the centerpiece of the the pope himself—not Christ. Michelangelo added insult to injury
Sistine Chapel ceiling. Surrounding God are a dozen or so figures, with a rude gesture from the nude figure depicted beside her. His
including the as-yet-uncreated Eve, and around them all billows a thumb is placed between his first and second fingers, a gesture
large purple mantle. The shape of this fabric is an unmistakable that was called “giving the fig,” the equivalent of the middle finger
cross-section of the human brain, down to the position of certain today in terms of disrespect and vulgarity.
12 W H E R E R O M E I M AY 2021
w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. co m 13
WHERE NOW | ART
Just a few rooms away in the dark and depicted in the guise of the cynic Heracli- Another mystery can be found in one
secretive Borgia Apartment, we find another tus. Although it was a great compliment for of the Vatican’s greatest treasures, Michel-
mysterious appearance. The work in ques- Raphael to include Michelangelo in the work angelo’s Pietà. Many hypothesize that the
tion is Pinturicchio’s The Risen Christ, a fresco (particularly since they were by no means handsome, mustached face and limp, life-
completed in 1494, shortly after the discov- friendly), the former did get in an innocent less body of Christ were modeled on the
ery of the Americas. It’s a detail so tiny, you’d jab at his rival: although every other figure corpse of Juan Borgia, the son of the Pope
never see it if you didn’t know to look—in appears barefoot or in sandals, Michelange- at the time. Juan was murdered in 1497
fact, it was only discovered after heavy lo is depicted wearing his worn-out boots, (a crime still unsolved to this day), and his
restorations. In the background behind the the very ones he infamously never took off, stabbed body was dragged from the Tiber
sarcophagus, just to the left of the portrait not even to sleep. less than a year before Michelangelo started
of Juan Borgia, stands a group of what working on this masterpiece. In addition, a
appear to be Native Americans, replete with Raphael was not the only artist to seek detail invisible to a visitor (the sculpture sits
feathered headdresses and mohawks. If con- to insult one of his creative rivals within behind glass) is the fact that Christ has an
firmed by art historians, the work would be a work of art. Much more damning than extra incisor, in essence, a third front tooth.
the first European painting to depict Native Michelangelo’s boots was the portrait of Incisors represent sin, and so it could follow
Americans. Caravaggio in Giovanni Baglioni’s Sacred that Michelangelo added the tooth to illus-
and Profane Love, now located at Palazzo trate Christ taking on the sins of the world.
Renaissance superstar Raphael frescoed Barberini. Baglioni was a mediocre artist
the residence of Pope Julius II—the rooms who nevertheless enjoyed great populari- Caravaggio (whose given name was
directly above the Borgia Apartment—a ty and patronage from the church during Michelangelo) honored his namesake in his
decade later, including the imposing School his lifetime. Although he was derisive of Entombment of Christ, which now hangs in
of Athens, in which Raphael depicts some of Caravaggio’s work, he copied the chiar- the Pinacoteca of the Vatican Museums. The
the greatest thinkers of ancient times, from oscuro master’s style, a fact that Caravaggio figure of Nicodemus, who holds the legs of
Plato and Socrates to Euclid and Pythago- highly resented. When Caravaggio publicly Christ, bears a face identical to portraits of a
ras. In addition, Raphael honored some of insulted Baglioni’s Sacred and Profane Love, middle-aged Michelangelo, complete with
the most brilliant artists of his day, placing Baglioni created a new version of the work: his high, wide forehead, full beard, and a
their features within the portraits of the a chaste and armored Sacred Love interrupts broken nose. In addition, the stark white arm
ancients. Plato bears Leonardo’s face, Euclid a tryst between Profane Love and the devil of Christ that hangs down to touch the tomb
appears as the architect Donato Bramante, himself who has the features of Caravaggio, is identical to Michelangelo’s marble version
and most famously, Michelangelo’s face was a not-so-subtle rebuke of the latter’s morals. in the Pietà, carved over a century earlier.
T H EM E R CH A N T OF VE N I C E .C OM
Pictured, page 12: Top: detail of Michelangelo’s Pietà; detail of
Pinturicchio’s The Risen Christ.
Page 13: Detail of Michelangelo’s Cumean Sibyl and Two Ignudi, Sistine
Chapel.
This page: Clockwise from left: Caravaggio’s Entombment of Christ; detail
from Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, Sistine Chapel; Sacred and
Profane Love by Giovanni Baglioni; detail of Raphael’s School of Athens.
14 W H E R E R O M E I M AY 2021
WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING
Urban
Gallery
By Filly di Somma
TESTACCIO TRASTEVERE
Not far from Ostiense, the famous slaughter- Trastevere is street artist Cenk Knec’s territory, distinctive for
house-turned-museum, Il Mattatoio (Piazza O. Giustiniani, the bright colors he uses to give life to his pieces. His recent
4) hosts a fascinating collection of street art, both inside work includes plants and animals within scenes of nature. A
the compound and along nearby streets. The quality on beautiful example is found by the gate to the Fleur Garden
display is evident in a piece by ROA, covering a palazzo nursery, depicting a parrot, a bird with special importance
wall on Via Galvani. The mural, titled Jumping Wolf, imagi- to Rome. Legend has it that a pope once received 12 par-
natively depicts the Capitoline She-wolf in the Belgian art- rots as a gift when he was elected, but that he immediately
ist’s typical style of black-and-white animals representative released them—a possible explanation for why you still see
of their settings. Keep your eyes peeled as you walk many flitting amongst the city’s treetops today.
through Testaccio, looking out for the next
vibrantly colored façade.
TRULLO
SAN LORENZO This Roman suburb, symbol of the aesthetic
This neighborhood has been a hub of rebirth of working-class neighborhoods,
street art for decades, with a bohemian recently hosted a street poetry festival, mak-
atmosphere thanks to the nearby univer- ing the genre’s name a buzzword across the
sity. Alice Pasquini’s piece on Via dei Sabelli city. Many street artists were also at the event,
is one of the most beautiful in Rome, portray- penning vibrant murals that still draw crowds to
ing scenes of children playing and Roman daily the area.
life. Peopled by workers and their families in the late 20th
century, San Lorenzo was heavily bombed during WWII TOR MARANCIA
but has since become a lively district dense with bars and Just outside a seemingly ordinary apartment block, right
Rome’s art isn’t just found in museums. The city’s QUADRARO Clockwise from restaurants. behind Via Cristoforo Colombo, visitors are greeted by a
mural titled Welcome to Shanghai, playing off the original
walls themselves are often used as canvases. Historically a blue-collar suburb, Quadraro is experiencing a renaissance thanks to left: Street art
METRO A— SPAGNA nickname given to the area. The goal of the Big City Life
© ALICE PASQUINI (PHOTO BY JESSICA STEWART) – © GIOVANNI CAROTENUTO
M.U.Ro. (Museo Urbano Roma), a project led by the street artist David Daivù Vec- murals in
Street art (our definition covers graffiti, stencils, project is to creatively reinvent the neighborhood
chiato. The district’s street art trail begins at the Quadraro-Porta Furba metro stop Quadraro, At the beating heart of the historic center, the
and murals) came to Italy in the ‘90s, primari- and includes several roads such as Via dei Corneli and Largo dei Quintili. Along the San Basilio, Spagna metro stop is taking part in a joint project
downlo-
Get the app without forgetting its roots. An entire block has been
ly catching on in three major cities: Bologna, latter lives one of the area’s most distinctive works, Wasp Nest by Lucamaleonte, Spagna Metro A, between Rome’s public transport agency (ATAC) ad
Street Art transformed into a gallery en plein air with every one
memorializing the 1944 Nazi annexation of Quadraro. During WWII, the district Trullo, Garbatella. and 999 Contemporary, a nonprofit promoting Roma of the 11 buildings assigned to a noted street artist.
Milan, and Rome. In recent years, Italian and contemporary urban art. Famous French artists for even
was in fact known as the “wasp nest” for its strong antifascist sentiment. An old
international artists have beautified the capital Roman saying went: “If you want to flee the Germans, either go to the Vatican or like C215 and Seth have worked together to leave more SAN BASILIO
to Quadraro.” On Via Luscino, one side of an apartment block is decorated by three a futuristic mark in this highly trafficked area a stone’s info. San Basilio’s bad reputation made the district a natural
city’s walls with works both big and small, black- choice for creative redevelopment. SANBA is in charge
girls in free fall, the latest work by Alice Pasquini, a Roman street artist who has throw from the Spanish Steps.
and-white and in color, transforming what were brought her distinctive style of dreamlike portraits to every corner of the globe. here, a project backed by the cultural association WALLS,
once semi-abandoned industrial areas or sterile which collaborates with world-famous artists to launch a
suburbs into open-air museums. A medium freed OSTIENSE powerful message against neglect and decay, especially in
The post-industrial Ostiense district has provided fertile terrain for the imagina- forgotten corners of the city.
from the refined and stuffy atmosphere of galler- tions of various world-famous artists; it hosts the highest concentration of street
ies and museums, meant to be lived and to tell art in Rome. You can admire the murals along a stretch of Via Ostiense between PIGNETO
Piramide and the Basilica of San Paolo Fuori le Mura, as well as on some side Pigneto, together with the bordering neighborhood of Torpig-
the stories of its surroundings, Roman street art nattara, has been recently involved in a modernization effort
streets. On Via del Porto Fluviale, the Italian artist Blu, famous for his anticapitalist
found its roots in working-class neighborhoods, emphasis, has created a work of massive dimensions on an old military ware- called “Light Up Torpigna”. The epicenter is at Bar Necci (Via
house (now a home), depicting a rainbow of faces—perhaps a display of wel- Fanfulla da Lodi, 68), the setting of director Pier Paolo Pasolini’s
beginning in Quadraro, southeast of the city.
come toward the numerous immigrants living in the neighborhood. Iena Cruz’s legendary film Accattone. Here you can admire a large portrait
Today, Rome boasts over 300 works on 150 of the of the Italian intellectual, visible high up the walls.
brand-new Hunting Pollution, the largest example of street art in Europe, uses the
city’s streets. Read on to find the finest examples. environmental technology Airlite to, in effect, “eat” smog and pollution.
16 W H E R E R O M E I M AY 2021 w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. co m 17WHERE NOW | FOR HIM
Trim me UP! Legendary Harry’s Bar is the aperitif, enjoy the live piano bar
Looking for a fresh, uber-cool hairstyle? Lachlan Probyn shares his guide to the city’s hippest barbershops.
unique place that evokes the every evening and dive into the
“Dolce Vita” as if it were a clip magic of the Via Veneto from the
When in Rome, do as the Romans do, the old-fashioned shave for gents using ar- about what awaits them. Fear not, this
from the film, creating a fla- exclusive and fascinating Harry’s
and when it comes to getting that perfect tisanal soap and finishing with a calendula team means skilled business when it comes
cut, style, and blow-dry, it’s all about the and argan oil hydrating treatment, giving to the safe usage of razors and scissors. shback to the golden era of the Bar. The refined cuisine recalls
barber shop. Credited as one of the world’s your beard some well-deserved TLC. (Via Once seated in one of the salon’s vintage
oldest professions, the barber has become dei Portoghesi, 17) chairs, trust the creative barbers to sculpt Via Veneto, when Frank Sinatra the freshness of Mediterranean
the contemporary go-to destination for your desired ‘do and dexterously transform
sang at the piano and all the www.harrysbar.it flavours based on prime ingre-
modern men seeking a sophisticated trim. Wonderfool your beard into something which rivals the
Whether you’re hoping to tame your mane, Looking for an equally skilled cut and Roman hipster crowd. Their three conve- stars made their appearance in dients. Tradition and fantasy in-
or would simply like to add a little pizazz style, but with a touch less hipster and a nient locations mean you’ll never fret about
to your beard, the humble barbershop has tad more opulence? Wonderfool, as the having a bad hair day again. this bar/restaurant full of gla- spire the elegant dishes, accom-
become a popular haunt in Rome. name suggests, is guaranteed to offer you a (Viale Manzoni, 19 – Via degli Zingari, 18 –
mour and style. As in the roa- panied by the most prestigious
range of wondrous hair and skin treatments Piazza di Cinecittà 34/35)
G enco Barber S hop (think massages and facials). Formulated on ring sixties, you can still sip an labels and a high class service.
Since 1900, Genco Barber Shop, at the concept of the traditional gentleman’s
the foot of the Tower of the Monkey, has club, Wonderfool has earned itself a reve-
been cutting, trimming, and treating red reputation in the Eternal City thanks to
clients to a satisfying experience with the its selection of high-end, international pro-
utmost expertise. Specializing in colognes, ducts, and the quality and care executed
hairstyles, and beards, the team behind by its expert staff. (Via dei Banchi Nuovi, 39)
Genco, including barber Roberto Polidori
and hairstylist Arnaldo Marini, are certain to M achete Barber S hop
give you that modern look in endearingly With the title Machete Shop (large pho-
vintage surroundings. Treatments include to above), visitors may be a little unnerved
18 W H E R E R O M E I M AY 2021WHERE NOW | CURIOSITIES
THE CAMPIDOGLIO SQUARE
7
When in Rome, there's no escaping the ubiquitous Number 7. The
the city on April 21st—the day itself a multiple of seven. Rome was
Esquiline, Quirinal, and Viminal) and was ruled by seven kings before the
is Rome's
magic
Marcius, Tarquinius Priscus, Servius Tullius, and Tarquinius Superbus). Since
In Ancient Rome, for example, a pagan festival called Septimontium
quently appears on imperial monuments. The Arch of Titus, also known
Forum, was erected in 81 AD to commemorate the capture of Jerusalem.
Number by A. Mastrosanti
pattern dates back to the Eternal City’s earliest days, when Romulus founded
constructed on seven hills (namely, the Palatine, Capitoline, Aventine, Caelian,
advent of the Republic (Romulus, Numa Pompilius, Tullus Hostilius, Ancus
then, the number has continued to be a recurring motif in the city’s history.
celebrated the city’s seven hills. Throughout the city, the number seven fre-
as the Arch of the Seven Lamps, located in the southeast end of the Roman
The arch has a sculpted relief that depicts Titus’ army carrying off the temple’s
spoils, including a seven-branched candlestick, or menorah. A century later, Emperor Septimius Severus built the Septizodium, a glorious white
marble monument (now, sadly, destroyed) on the Palatine Hill dedicated to the seven planetary deities, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn, the sun,
and the moon—which also happen to be the roots of the seven days of the Italian week.
The number seven is also important in Christian Rome: seven are the principal basilicas that Pope Boniface VIII declared during the first Jubilee
in the year 1300: San Pietro, San Giovanni in Laterano, San Paolo Fuori le Mura (pictured below), Santa Maria
Maggiore, Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura and San Sebastiano. The seven basilicas make
up the holy route that pilgrims still follow in this year’s Jubilee of Mercy. Another church that fits Rome’s number
seven pattern is Santa Maria dei Sette Dolori (St. Mary of the Seven Sorrows), a tiny jewel of a church designed by
Borromini and located on the slopes of the Janiculum Hill. The suburban Roman neighborhoods of Settebagni
(seven baths) and Settecamini (seven chimneys) also fit into this theme. In addition, you’ve come to Rome at the
perfect time to explore Rome’s seven-themed sites: the ancient Latin calendar began in March, so September
was originally the seventh month of the year (hence its name)!
AND WHAT'S MORE...
A curious tidbit that should also be noted: the offices of WHERE Rome are located on Via delle Sette Chiese, 7—
that is, the Street of the Seven Churches, building number 7!
20 W H E R E R O M E I M AY 2021
Untitled-1 1 12/22/2014 4:53:02 PM[RINASCENTE]
WHERE NOW | FOOD
One-stop Shop
Flour Power Shopping at Its best
For your Roman shopping
a few steps away from the Trevi
Alexandra Bruzzese shares her roundup of Rome best bakeries.
fountain and the Spanish steps
head to the Rinascente store
ANTICO FORNO ROSCIOLI > Roscioli has been proofing, kneading, cornetti, zeppole, apple dumplings, brioches, and airy girandole,
A
and baking their way to the top of the city’s culinary scene for the pinwheel-shaped pastries that get along splendidly with a morning
century and a half ago, Italian smaller building—erected in the early 1900s and athletic footwear on four and five.
past four decades. The family-run bakery coaxes their dough into cappuccino. By midday, the bakery’s counter flaunts over 70 differ-
both the savory, and the sweet—like breakfast cornetti brimming ent types of bread, including gluten-free offerings, pizza-by-the-slice, department store Rinascente first and known as the “Palazzetto”—literally Last but not least, the 6th and 7th floors host
with jam and custard, chocolate-studded cantucci cookies, and the bruschette, and sandwiches. Homemade grissini, or breadsticks, are opened its doors, initially in Milan inside of it, an authentic “building within a the food hall, restaurants, food market,
delightfully named “ugly but good” hazelnut cookies. Their bestseller hand rolled daily and sprinkled with sesame and poppy seeds. In then across Italy, with stores taking up building” that adds a fascinating element to café, lounge bar, and panoramic terrace.
is arguably the pizza al taglio, or pizza-by-the-slice: try the rossa, thin, an intriguing twist, Panella also proposes pane e gelato, the bread of
residence in historic palaces in major cities. the store’s architecture. The gourmet food hall, the first of its kind in
crunchy, and glossed with tomato sauce, or the bianca, a chewy fo- your choice paired with gelato. >>Via Merulana, 54. panellaroma.com
caccia dough freckled with sea salt. Multigrain, rustic, white, kamut, A second flagship store opened in October Another defining architectural element the Eternal City, is now fimrly established as
and durum wheat loaves also crowd the shelves. FORNO CAMPO DE’ FIORI > Less is more applies to pizza, too. 2017, just steps from the Trevi Fountain is the cavaedium, an ancient-style central “the place to be” in Rome, both for tourists
>>Via dei Chiavari, 34. anticofornoroscioli.it Forno Campo de’ Fiori’s bestselling pizza bianca is a chewy, olive-oily and Piazza di Spagna. The inauguration courtyard that brings light and splendor to and residents, offering vastly different dining
focaccia dough dusted with sea salt. Eat your slice plain, or have of this fashion legend coincided with the every floor. The basement is home to the options, all with a glorious view over the roof-
BONCI > Nicknamed the “Michelangelo of Pizza,” Gabriele Bonci it fashioned into a sandwich with mortadella, prosciutto, or even
(pictured above) is the owner of Pizzarium, a shop that has elevated Nutella. The bakery’s address right off the buzzing Campo de’ Fiori milestone of nearly 150 years of activity, and Design Supermarket, offering innovative and tops of Rome. Restaurants include the Feudi
pizza-by-the-slice from street food snack to edible masterpiece. Using square also makes it a popular destination for those fueling up exactly 100 years since the celebrated poet trendsetting brands in home décor, propos- di San Gregorio winery, Michelin-starred
the same spelt that ancient Romans would have baked their bread before a night on the town—don’t be scared off by the long lines, Gabriele D’Annunzio coined the name of the als for the dining table and kitchen, fabrics, chef Riccardo Di Giacinto’s MadeITerraneo,
with, Bonci tops his dough with experimental combinations like as they move quickly. If you’re hankering for something sweet, the store, which literally means “renascent,” or in leather goods and luggage, lighting, and Temakinho, serving a delightful combination
chickpeas, mortadella, and grapefruit; tomato three ways; pumpkin, forno also is replete in biscotti, traditional sour cherry pie, and cream
guanciale, and smoked mozzarella; and seared pigeon. The menu and pine nut tart. >>Campo de’ Fiori, 22. fornocampodefiori.com the process of being reborn. technological gadgetry. This is where you of Brazilian and Japanese cuisines, and ViVi
varies daily; Bonci estimates he produces about 1,500 types of This prestigious department store offers can also admire the ruins of the Aqua Virgo Bistrot, offering dishes made entirely with
pizza per year. Grab your own slice at his flagship store FORNO BOCCIONE > This old-school bakery in the a selection of the finest products in fash- aqueduct in a special exhibition space, natural and organic ingredients.
or at Termini station’s Mercato Centrale. Panificio Jewish quarter is cramped and sparsely deco- ion, accessories, beauty care, home décor, allowing you to combine a shopping trip with Try the exclusive On Demand Service: a
Bonci, meanwhile, hawks sugary confections rated—there isn’t even a sign with its name
like ventagli di pasta sfoglia and apple and jam design, and food, providing a wide choice a cultural outing. The tax-free lounge and personal shopper who finds your favorite
outside—but that doesn’t seem to bother
cakes and pies, alongside more wholesome the locals who come here for Boccione’s of 800 upscale brands, all offering the very customer service desk are also located here. product in store and delivers it directly to your
options like naturally leavened bread. traditional Jewish baked goods. Popular best of Italian and international production. Every floor is a new treasure trove of hotel. Now available also on WeChat.
>>Pizzarium. Via della Meloria, 43. bonci.it orders are their pizze, dense sweets thick After a painstaking restoration of the historic products to discover, from jewelry, watches, Tel 3440081600.
Panificio Bonci. Via Trionfale, 46. Mercato with nuts, raisins, and candied fruit, and
Centrale. Via Giolitti, 36. building on Via Tritone, an exciting arche- sunglasses, and accessories on the ground ondemand@rinascente.it
their ricotta and sour-cherry crostate,
or pies. Depending on the day, the top ological discovery was made: a well-pre- floor, to cosmetics, fragrances, and lingerie Via del Tritone, 61/Via dei Due Macelli, 23.
PANELLA > Start your Monday of the crostate may be gilded gold or served section of the Aqua Virgo aque- on the first floor up. Men’s fashion, footwear, Tel 06879161. Mon–Sun, 10am–11pm.
morning with a baked good from blackened, the latter preferable among duct inaugurated by Emperor Augustus in accessories, and underwear are located on Store: Piazza Fiume. Tel 068841231.
Panella and the whole week will fall into Romans who claim charring only im- 19 BC, which can be seen in the basement. levels two and three, and women’s fashions, Mon–Fri, 9:30am–9pm; Sat, 9:30am–
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