KUMANO KODO DESTINATION GUIDE - Japan's sacred pilgrimage walk - RAW Travel
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KUMANO KODO
Japan’s sacred
pilgrimage walk
DESTINATION GUIDE
TRAIL DESCRIPTION KUMANO KODO
JAPAN’S SACRED PILGRIMAGE WALK
JAPAN
Japan’s ancient Kumano Kodo trails are Japanese-style guesthouse lodgings in small
nestled in the verdant mountains of the remote villages, and rich cultural insight into
southern part of the beautiful Kii Peninsula, a relatively unexplored part of Japan.
Kumano Kodo, just south of Osaka. This lush and rugged
HOSSHINMON-OJI area has been considered the abode of the We love sharing our Kumano Kodo
Kii Peninsula gods and worshipped for centuries. experiences with our clients. Whether it’s
KUMANO finding the best ramen in Kyoto or a beautiful
HONGU The sacred Nakahechi pilgrimage route is the onsen along the trail, our knowledge of
OSAKA TAKAHARA YUNOMINE most popular and accessible of the Kumano the trek will help you create a wonderful,
TSUGIZAKURA-OJI ONSEN
Kodo routes and the most sacred walk in memorable experience.
Japan, worshipped as a place of rebirth.
KOGUCHI
TAKIJIRI-OJI
SHINGU
On this ancient spiritual trail you can’t
KII-TANABE The 68km trail offers splendid self-guided help but feel the mystical energy and
OGUMOTORI-GOE PASS walking through a mountainous and sparsely will return rejuvenated and reinvigorated.
populated part of the Japanese mainland. It
KUMANO Some of our clients even combine the
NACHI starts from Takijiri on the western coast of the
TAISHA Kii Peninsula and works its way east across the Kumano Kodo with the delightful
mountains towards the Kumano grand shrines Nakasendo Way, an easier route
at Hongu and then Nachisan. through the mountains of central Japan.
Call us today to find out more.
KII-KATSUURA This demanding trek offers a rewarding
physical challenge. The rugged, forested
BUS TRANSFERS DAY 1 DAY 2 DAY 3 DAY 4 mountains, quiet rural valleys, rivers and Chris, Ma rk & Lea n n e
Daily walking distances vary from 13km - 24km waterfalls provide a spectacular backdrop
for walkers. The seasonal contrasts of cherry
blossom in the spring and rich autumn foliage
inject wonderful colour. The walk offers a
chance to take a break from your everyday
Kumano Kodo Trail Description routine and transition to a spiritual area of
(Note: Hours of walking are approximate). Stage 3: Hongu Area to Koguchi
13km, 5–7 hours walking Japan, reflected by the historic torii gates along
Kumano Kodo Destination Experts
Starts with a fairly gentle trek, mostly in the the trail.
japan@rawtravel.com
Stage 1: Takijiri-oji to Tsugizakura-oji forested mountains with some ridge-walking Phone: (03) 5976 3763
The views and little stops along the way make
18km, 7–9 hours walking sections. The forest track continues to rise and fall,
the Kumano Kodo one of the best treks on the
Starts with a 4km upward climb through the forest, sometimes gradual, sometimes steep.
then you head further into the mountains. Some
planet. It is a glorious march that includes hot www.kumanokodo.com.au
spring retreats, delicious local food, traditional Copyright © October 2018 by RAW Travel.
descents and short climbs, including a cobbled
path and stone staircase. Stage 4: Koguchi to Kumano Nachi Taisha
14.5km, 6–8 hours walking
One of the toughest sections, starting with
Stage 2: Tsugizakura-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha a 2½-hour (5km) climb to 868m, the highest point
21–24km, 7–9 hours walking of the walk. The path continues through forest and
Many forest paths and some mountain top villages. along ridges, ascending and descending. The last
A number of passes to be climbed. 1km is a steep descent into Nachisan.
See the website for a full list of trips and itineraries
rawtravel.com/destinations/kumano-kodo/
PAGE 2 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 3
KUMANO KODO: QUICK LOOK
Getting there Total distance
Train from Kyoto or Osaka (~3 hours) or 68km
from Tokyo (~5 hours) to Kii-Tanabe station
then a short bus ride (~40 minutes) on your Daily distances
first trekking day to Takijiri-oji, the traditional From 13km to 24km depending on overnight
gateway to the remote Kumano mountains. options chosen and number of days walked.
Expect 6 to 8 hours of daily walking on the
Difficulty longer trekking days.
Challenging to strenuous hiking, best suited to
active walkers. Signs/waymarkers
The Kumano Kodo trail is extremely well
Length marked with wooden signs. There are
Allow 7 days in total: 4 to 5 days of walking (for waymarkers every 500m as well as regular
the full route), a rest day and arrival/departure signs indicating directions and distances.
days. Our team can adapt some of the walking
days to suit your timeframe and ability so that High point
the trip matches your desired length. 868m on the Ogumatori-goe section
(Koguchi to Kumano Nachi Taisha).
The route
From Takijiri-oji on the western coast of the Maps
Kii Peninsula, the trail works its way east Nakahechi Route
across the mountains towards the Kumano
grand shrines at Hongu and then Nachisan.
www.kumanokodo.com.au
Disclaimer
The information in this Destination Guide has been compiled with care and is provided in good faith.
PAGE 4 www.kumanokodo.com.au However, it is subject to change and does not form part of the contract between the client and RAW Travel. PAGE 5
SECTION 1:
INSPIRATION PAGE 9
SECTION 2:
TRAVEL
ESSENTIALS PAGE 19
SECTION 3:
ON THE TRAIL PAGE 35
SECTION 4:
RAW TRAVEL PAGE 43
PAGE 6 www.kumanokodo.com.au
SECTION 1:
INSPIRATION
Why you’ll love this walk 10
Why experience the Kumano Kodo with
RAW Travel? 10
Origin of the walk 11
Is this trip right for me? 13
What’s it like underfoot? 13
What we offer 14
Self-guided walking explained 15
Kumano Kodo information website 15
RAW Travel Insights (Blog) 15
Background reading 17
Responsible travel 17
WE LOVED OUR TIME ON
Extending your holiday 17
THE TRAILS AND IN THE
GUESTHOUSES. THIS WAS
ONE OF THE MOST AMAZING
WALKS WE HAVE DONE
AND A HIGHLIGHT OF OUR
WORLD TOUR!
– Jill & Zachary Stafford, USA
PAGE 8 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 9
SECTION 1: INSPIRATION KUMANO KODO
• Flights and pre/post-travel arrangements The Yoshino & Omine route is an isolated
WHY YOU’LL LOVE THIS WALK are booked by our in-house travel agent. treacherous mountain trail reserved for
ascetic practices by the Shugendo sect, and
3 History: The Kumano Kodo is one of only 3 Onsens: A cherished Japanese ritual; after • Our exclusive Kumano Kodo guidebook one recommended only for expert hikers. In
two UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage a day of trekking through bamboo groves is the best English-language guide available, 2004, the majority of these routes – excluding
routes globally. Its history stretches back and mossy Japanese forests, soothe your and produced by RAW Travel experts. a modern route called the Kiiji – were
over 1000 years when the emperors would muscles (and spirit) in a hot spring. designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
undertake a strict and challenging journey • We also give you a Japanese phrasebook,
3 Tranquility and serenity: Innumerable
to purify the mind, body and soul. luggage tags, detailed itinerary, maps, track The Nakahechi pilgrimage route is becoming
shrines can be found along this pilgrimage
notes and orientation pack. increasingly popular. Along the way there
3R
yokan & Minshuku: Stay in traditional, route and are wonderful places for rest,
family run guesthouses: character, charm reflection, purification rites and prayers. The are traditional accommodations in isolated
• Our Kumano Kodo experts and our villages making multi-day walks possible.
and friendly hosts. peacefulness of the trail is the main reason dedicated information website are bursting
people love it so much. Switch off from life’s Some portions of the trail have been paved
3 Food: A highlight of walking the Kumano with insider information and tips: with cobblestones to prevent erosion from
routines and switch on to the peace and www.kumanokodo.com.au
Kodo! Japanese food is refined, elegant, heavy rains, as it weaves through a variety
tranquility of the forest.
pure and delicate: raw fish, cooked local of mountain passes, quaint villages, bamboo
fish, tempura, miso, rice (of course), pickled 3 Nachi-no-Otaki: The tallest waterfall ORIGIN OF THE WALK groves, mossy Japanese cypress forests and
vegetables, delicious hotpots, soups and in Japan (133m): a fitting climax to a terraced rice fields.
the local speciality, the alkalising umeboshi journey first undertaken by emperors and For millennia, the mountainous region of
plum. aristocrats seeking spiritual purification. Kumano has been thought to be the mythical The Kumano Kodo has embodied a unique
‘holy ground where gods dwell’. Pilgrimages to mix of both Shinto and Buddhism religions
3 Quirky: Experience a unique, respectful and 3 Physical challenge: Completing the the shrines became popular for the imperial
delightfully unusual culture. Yukatas, multi- Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail is an with frequent symbolic references to be noted
families and aristocracy between the 9th and and enjoyed along the trail.
function toilets, bento boxes, green tea immensely rewarding achievement. 12th centuries who came here in search of
KitKats and more. heaven on earth.
During this time, Kumano was worshipped as
a place of rebirth where spirits going to the
WHY EXPERIENCE THE KUMANO KODO trip go smoothly – everything from where to afterworld would gather and pray for their
WITH RAW TRAVEL? catch your train to cultural tips and pointers. happiness in the next world. By the 14th
You deal with a reputable and experienced century, samurai warriors and commoners
RAW Travel has operated active walking trips started to do the pilgrimage, and by the
Australian operator who has the contacts to
in Asia since 1999, so we are one of the most 17th century it had widely spread to all.
book those remote guesthouses in the forest.
experienced operators you can choose. We Posthumous remains of various deities are still
enjoy providing a friendly, personal service Why people choose us… held at each of the shrines.
where you’re treated as an individual. We
RAW is a boutique Australian tour operator
pride ourselves on our staff’s intimate Over the past 10 centuries, people from all
with expert first-hand knowledge of the
knowledge of the Kumano Kodo: we really do levels of society have journeyed to the tranquil
Kumano Kodo and a local contact in Japan to
‘know because we go’ and have created walks Kii Mountains, following many pilgrimage
provide assistance.
that show you the best of the area. routes to the revered Kumano Sanzan Shrines.
•W
e pre-book your accommodation, The various paths are known collectively as the
It can feel complex travelling in Japan for a Kumano Kodo.
transport, meals and luggage transfers;
first timer, so when you book a trip with us
all you carry is your daypack.
you will deal with people who’ve done the There are four main routes:
walk and can answer your many questions • You stay in great local accommodation Nakahechi – The Imperial Route
about travelling there. As well as speaking in traditional ryokans and atmospheric
to someone in the same time zone, you minshukus, with friendly hosts and soothing Kohechi – The Mountainous Route
can come along to our free talks on the onsens.
Kumano Kodo. Iseji – The Eastern Route
• Most meals are included in your trip costs
We provide detailed information and track and feature locally authentic Japanese cuisine. Ohechi – The Coastal Route
notes for your walk that will help your Japan
PAGE 10 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 11
KUMANO KODO
Kumano Kodo and the Way of St James exercise in the lead up to your trip. You will
SOLITUDE AND Kumano Kodo and The Way of St. James are need to practice hiking in a hill or mountain
the only two World Heritage UNESCO-listed environment with your equipment (boots
especially!) that you’ll be taking to the Kumano
ACCOMPLISHMENT;
pilgrimage routes. As sister pilgrimages,
Wakayama Prefecture (Japan) and Galicia Kodo. Regular stair climbing will also help you
Province (Spain) have officially twinned to prepare for this walk.
THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE develop friendly relations between regions
and countries, and contribute to world peace Although the trail is well defined and well
CLEANSED MY SOUL.
and development. Though Kumano Kodo is signed, the majority of the trail is on rugged
located in the East, while the Way of St. James mountain terrain with exposed tree roots,
that leads to Galicia’s Santiago de Compostela steep up and down sections, loose rocks and
Cathedral – one of the three holiest sites of stone steps, which can be slippery underfoot.
– Genevieve Loving, Craigie (WA) The more training you do and the better
Catholicism – is located in the West, both
ancient roads testify to a parallel history of prepared you are, the more you will enjoy this
faith, originating in the early 10th century. beautiful World Heritage listed walk.
Regular training
IS THIS TRIP RIGHT FOR ME? While we often see amazing improvements
When considering booking a trip it is important in people’s fitness with a program of regular
that you look at the descriptions in this training before a trip, you have to be realistic
Destination Guide about accommodation, food about whether you can commit to regular
and level of physical difficulty to ensure that training with your current lifestyle. If you feel
the trip matches your expectations. Particularly you are unable to commit to doing the training
with the physical difficulty rating, it’s vital to needed to achieve the level of fitness required
select a trip that is realistic for your ability. then you should consider another trip that
Read through this Destination Guide and is less demanding. This is the only way to
the specific trip itineraries on our website accurately judge whether you can cope with
before booking. See also p50 (Trip Gradings). the demands of any given trip.
Physical grading WHAT’S IT LIKE UNDERFOOT?
This is a demanding trek offering a rewarding
The Kumano Kodo is a mountain trek with
physical challenge. It has a RAW Travel
waterfalls and shrines.
grading of 6–7 (Challenging to Strenuous).
We have used several criteria to assess the Set mostly in the deep forest, there are a
difficulty of our walks, including the number number of steep ascents and descents along
of hours walking required each day, terrain the trail. Distances can be deceptive on the
and conditions underfoot, weather, gradient, Kumano Kodo. Although the route does not go
altitude, signage and facilities along the trail. to great heights like some mountain walks, it is
To prepare for walks of this grading, we easy to underestimate the difficulty and effort
recommend completing 2 to 3 walks per week, required due to the regular ups and downs.
increasing distances while carrying an 8kg
pack, with some hill walking or heavy sand The Kii-Peninsula is an exceptionally
walking included. Please note these gradings mountainous region. Paths vary from beautiful
are a guide and will depend on your individual stone flagged sections to gnarly tree-root
experience, fitness level and mental attitude. covered sections of bare earth and loose
rocks. It can easily take 7 or 8 hours to walk as
On most days on the Kumano Kodo you will little as 14km a day (with breaks), especially if it
walk between 13km and 24km (6 to 9 hours), has been raining and the path is slippery.
with ascents and descents. The walk will
be more enjoyable if you have a good level
of fitness and are participating in regular
PAGE 12 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 13
SECTION 1: INSPIRATION KUMANO KODO
There are also a few short sections of country WHAT WE OFFER SELF-GUIDED WALKING EXPLAINED KUMANO KODO INFORMATION WEBSITE
lanes and gravel roads, and coming into town
RAW Travel offers a range of self-guided All of our Kumano Kodo trips are self-guided. On our dedicated Kumano Kodo website you’ll
you follow regular footpaths.
options on the Kumano Kodo Trail: Travelling self-guided allows you to walk find all you need to know about Japan’s sacred
The highest point is 868m on the Ogumatori- from place to place progressing from one pilgrimage walk, including a photo gallery,
Kumano Kodo Trail (7 days) accommodation to the next in your own time. videos, and detailed information about the
goe section (Koguchi to Kumano Nachi Taisha).
You walk without a guide, following our trail shrines, routes, history and lots more.
Kumano Highlights (6 days) notes and area maps.
We highly recommend walking poles.
www.kumanokodo.com.au
Kumano in Spring (8 days) Luggage transfers are included on all trekking
The Kumano Kodo trail (especially the
Nakahechi section that you will be trekking) is days, meaning you will only trek with a daypack. RAW TRAVEL INSIGHTS (BLOG)
Kumano in Autumn (8 days)
extremely well marked with wooden ‘Kumano
The great part about self-guided travel Written by our Kumano Kodo Destination
Kodo’ signs. There are even ‘Not Kumano Kumano Kodo, Koyasan & Kyoto (12 days)
is that you can choose your own travel Experts, our RAW Insights about the Kumano
Kodo’ signs on some crossroads! In addition to
dates (dependent on the availability of Kodo are great background reading.
the Kumano Kodo signs there are waymarkers Kumano Kodo Women’s Trek (8 days)
every 500m as well as regular signs indicating accommodation of course) and itineraries can
be custom made to suit your particular travel • When to trek the Kumano Kodo
directions and distances. Kumano Kodo Extended Walk (10 days)
wishes and needs. • iking in Japan: Kumano Kodo or
H
Walking Japan’s Kumano Kodo trail feels like Is the Kumano Kodo Trail suitable Nakasendo Way?
stepping into an enchanted kingdom. The for children? The Kumano Kodo trail is extremely well
signed and a well-defined trail so you won’t • T
he wonderful health benefits of
whimsical forests and meandering rivers are We don’t recommend it for young children,
need advanced orienteering skills but you Japanese food
home to an interesting variety of creatures but physically active teenagers with multi-day
that you may spot along the trail. Keep your should be comfortable reading a map, • The mystique of Koyasan
hiking experience should cope well.
eyes peeled for weird, wonderful, friendly and referring to route notes and independently
navigating your way along this rural trail. • Creatures along the Kumano Kodo
perhaps not-so-friendly creatures, including •F
ind out more:
beautiful butterflies, lizards, bright-orange Can children hike the Kumano Kodo? • Can children hike the Kumano Kodo trail?
Keep in mind that when travelling in Japan
crabs and snakes. • Meet Ryoji, our man in Kyoto
and along the Kumano Kodo, you are required
• Find out more: to independently use public transportation. • Ippudo Nishiki-koji: Restaurant in Kyoto
Creatures along the Kumano Kodo • You say Camino, I say Kumano
Sometimes route finding, losing your way,
finding it again and asking the locals for help • Kumano accommodation
is all part of the adventure. The freedom of
If you’ve completed the Camino (or a section of • How difficult is the Kumano Kodo?
a self-guided trip is something that, once
it) across northern Spain there’s a good chance experienced, is sought time and time again. • What to take on the Kumano Kodo
you will want to walk the Kumano Kodo on
Japan’s Kii Peninsula, or vice versa. We often • Wonderful onsens
get asked about the similarities and differences
of these two iconic walks.
Why don’t we offer guided trips on the walk the full length of the trail. These guides
• Find out more: Kumano Kodo? only do a limited number of walks per year.
You Say Camino, I say Kumano • The Kumano Kodo is very well suited to self-
guided walking. There is a very clear path • We provide our clients with extensive
through the forest, excellent signage and documents including the best English-
markers every 500m. language guidebook and detailed maps,
making self-navigation easy.
• Private guides are very expensive in Japan.
Each member of a group is likely to pay up to • Japan is an extremely safe country in which
double the trip cost when a guide is included. to travel, and its punctual and efficient rail
system makes travel between destinations
• There are only a small number of Kumano relatively easy.
Kodo guides in Japan who hold the licence to
PAGE 14 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 15
KUMANO KODO
BACKGROUND READING RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
THE IMMERSION IN Kumano Kodo: Hiking Ancient
Trails in Traditional Japan
At RAW Travel we believe in responsible travel,
which means a lot more that staying safe and
JAPANESE CULTURE WAS by RAW Travel respecting the local culture and customs in the
For the exclusive use of RAW Travel
clients this guidebook will inform
you all about the ancient Kumano
Kodo trail, the history, sights
and all you will experience on KUMANO KODO (3rd edition, 2018) country you are visiting. You are responsible
AUTHENTIC AND REWARDING;
your journey.
for making this trip the best it can be – read all
Hiking Ancient Trails in Traditional Japan
by RAW Travel
Produced by RAW Travel experts, your notes we send you, use the guidebook,
this Kumano Kodo guidebook is the best learn some Japanese phrases, make sure
OUR HOSTS, ACCOMMODATION English-language guide available and
provided exclusively to RAW Travel clients.
you are comfortable with self-guided walking,
research Japanese customs, do the right pre-
AND FOOD WERE SIMPLY
trip training, read our blog posts, buy the right
Lost Japan gear, wear in your boots, practise walking with
poles – and make sure you are prepared to
SUPERB. RAW’S SUPPORT
by Alex Kerr
(Penguin Books, 2015) enjoy this beautiful unique destination. The
more prepared you are, the more you will
GAVE US CONFIDENCE TO Originally written in Japanese, this
passionate, vividly personal book
enjoy this special and stunning trek.
DO WHAT WE DID BUT
draws on the author’s experiences in Japan EXTENDING YOUR HOLIDAY
over 30 years. Koyasan
STILL WITH A SENSE OF Hokkaido Highway Blues
by Will Ferguson
Many travellers combine walking the Kumano
Kodo with a visit to mystical Koyasan, an active
INDEPENDENT ADVENTURE.
monastic centre established 12 centuries
(Allen & Unwin, 2003) ago by the renowned monk Priest Kukai,
the founder of Esoteric Buddhism. It is still
Heady on sakura and sake, Will the headquarters of the Koyasan sect of
– Kathy & Dimitrie Vicol (ACT) Ferguson followed the Cherry Shingon Buddhism, which is practised widely
Blossom Front from one end of the country throughout Japan, and has a university
to the other. One of the funniest and most dedicated to religious studies.
illuminating books ever written about Japan.
Read more: The mystique of Koyasan
The Lady & The Monk: Kyoto
Four Seasons in Kyoto
Once the capital of Japan, Kyoto is a
by Pico Iyer
beautiful, lively and sophisticated city
(Penguin Random House, 2011)
featuring thousands of Buddhist temples,
This heartfelt book is a portrait imperial palaces, gardens and traditional
of cross-cultural infatuation — and wooden houses.
misunderstanding — and a delightfully fresh While Tokyo is all high-speed trains, flashes
way of seeing both the old Japan and the of neon and skyscrapers, Kyoto moves to an
very new. altogether different rhythm. The city centre
is surprisingly easy to navigate, thanks to a
The Tale of Genji simple public transport network (three subway
by Murasaki Shikibu lines and an extensive bus network) and its
(Penguin Random House, 2002) grid system, inspired by ancient feng shui.
City breaks
Written in the 11th-century by
a noblewoman, this exquisite We can tailormake a city break to your
portrait of courtly life in medieval Japan is requirements (minimum 3-night’s
widely celebrated as the world’s first novel, accommodation booking required).
and runs to an epic 1200 pages.
PAGE 16 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 17
SECTION 2:
THE MAPS, ITINERARY, TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
AND INFORMATION WAS
CLEAR AND EASY TO When to walk 20
FOLLOW, WHICH WAS Elevation 20
IMPORTANT AS I WAS Getting fit for this walk 20
DOING THE PILGRIMAGE Accommodation style 21
ON MY OWN. AN How to use an onsen in Japan 21
EXCELLENT WELL-
Food & drinks 23
Transport 24
ORGANISED SELF- Maps 27
GUIDED TOUR. Recommended Apps 27
Health 27
– Jane Ainslie, Sydney (NSW)
Visas 29
Smart Traveller 29
Travel insurance 29
What to pack 29
Specialist gear recommended for
this walk 31
Other items to pack 32
How to book your RAW Travel trip 32
Participation conditions 33
RAW Traveller’s code 33
PAGE 18 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 19SECTION 2: TRAVEL ESSENTIALS KUMANO KODO
WHEN TO WALK ELEVATION ACCOMMODATION STYLE then previous clients may have chosen to
smoke in the room and thus on occasion
Weather will vary according to the month you The Kumano Kodo trek reaches a maximum On the Kumano Kodo we use a variety of
there may be a slight aroma of smoke in your
choose to walk the Kumano Kodo. The Kii elevation of only 868m, and is very serene and accommodation from centrally located hotels
room or other areas of the accommodation.
Peninsula is a wet region, so you should be peaceful. There are detailed maps for each in cities to traditional guesthouses with great
prepared for some rain year-round and bring day, showing elevation. character in the smaller places. Staying in All accommodation details will be sent to you
adequate rain gear. August–September is the traditional style accommodations will be separately with your pre-departure pack,
peak of the typhoon season in Japan. There GETTING FIT FOR THIS WALK without a doubt one of the highlights of your as the properties used will depend on your
is a potential risk of disruption to travel plans Kumano Kodo experience. With larger groups preferred dates and availability. RAW Travel
during these events. Walking is one of the most natural things we may have to split some people over two reserves the right to use alternative overnight
to do, so you may feel that you are already nearby accommodations as guesthouses are locations/accommodation of a similar
• Find out more: in good enough shape. However, you will small with a limited number of rooms. standard where needed. When you book, you
When to trek the Kumano Kodo be walking for many hours over successive
will be advised what itinerary we can secure.
days carrying a daypack, which is likely very The majority of accommodation along the
Spring (March, April & May) different to your current walking schedule. trail are ryokans and minshukus (traditional
March and April are extremely popular times Japanese style inns) that offer a great chance HOW TO USE AN ONSEN IN JAPAN
to go because it is cherry blossom season in We recommend that you undertake a training to meet local people and enjoy a truly Enjoying a Japanese bath is a unique cultural
Japan. You can expect daytime temperatures program according to your level of fitness authentic Japanese atmosphere. Ryokans experience. For first timers, it may be a little
of around 10–15°C. May is a lovely and for at least 3 months leading up to your and minshukus are basic in style with shared intimidating, but once you get used to it, the
popular month to visit. The days are warmer departure. Regular exercise prior to the trip toilet and bathroom facilities but have great Japanese bath often becomes an addiction;
(18–24°C) and there is more daylight. will allow you to build your fitness steadily so character and friendly hosts. Most rooms are relaxing, healing, and regenerating its
that you will enjoy and complete the trip with Japanese style, with straw tatami mats used followers. Learning a few pointers will help
Autumn (October & November) a smile and energy left over. for flooring. Guests sleep on futons (thin you navigate the watery world of the Japanese
Also a popular time to visit as the colours mattresses that are spread on tatami mats bath smoothly.
Moderate activities such as walking pose at night and stored folded in a closet during
throughout the forest are stunning. In autumn,
little health risk but before starting any new the day).
expect daytime temperatures of around
exercise program we recommend that you
10–15°C.
see your doctor for a check-up, particularly if Heating/air-conditioning is still coin-operated
September you have a medical condition, are aged over in some of the traditional inns.
40 years, are overweight or haven’t exercised
This is a popular month to visit with warm
in a long time. Most accommodation along the trail offer
weather (20–26°C) and long daylight hours.
an onsen (hot spring bath), which is part
It is humid with the chance of rain. August– • Find out more: of your Japanese experience. Bathing is
September is the peak of the typhoon season Getting Walking Fit for the Kumano Kodo communal though segregated by sex and
in Japan. There is a potential risk of disruption
people undress and bathe before entering
to travel plans during these events.
the onsen bath. Bathing in an onsen is a
Summer (June to August) great way to rejuvenate tired muscles after
a long day of trekking and leaves you feeling
During summer in Japan you can expect longer
refreshed and clean.
daylight hours, humidity and higher rainfall, but
the scenery is beautifully green and verdant. GETTING W In cities, we use centrally located hotels with
ALKING FIT
Daytime temperatures are around 25–30°C. FOR HIKING
IN JAPAN ensuite bathrooms. Please note that hotel
How to prepar
e for your mu rooms in Japan are often smaller than what
Winter (December to February)
lti-day trek
you may have found in other countries. In
Winter brings a small chance of snow on the more remote places, hotel standards may
Nakahechi route. Trails are open year-round not be quite as high as in major centres but
but due to the cool weather and reduced RAW Travel always endeavours to use the
hours of daylight we recommend this time most suitable accommodation available in
of year for experienced mountain trekkers each destination. It is also worth noting that
only. Most accommodations close between smoking in city hotel rooms is not unusual or
Christmas and mid-January. culturally frowned upon in Japan. We always
aim to book non-smoking rooms but even
PAGE 20 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 21KUMANO KODO
Some important rules FOOD & DRINKS
A REAL PRIVILEGE TO • Photography is not permitted inside
bathing areas.
We include most meals in our trip itineraries
because the Kumano Kodo is a remote area
BE EXPOSED TO BOTH • Tattoos are not technically allowed; some with limited alternatives to purchase food
people choose to cover these with band-aids along the trail. If you are served an evening
CONTEMPORARY JAPAN AND
or a waterproof bandage. meal in a guesthouse that you decide may
not suit you, there is no local store down
• Swimsuits are not permitted inside onsens; the road to go and purchase an alternative.
TRADITIONAL JAPANESE
they are, however, permitted in public Packaging is also written all in Japanese so it
outdoor onsens (eg, Kawayu onsen). can be difficult to determine ingredients in
CULTURE. THE RAW
• Modesty towels are not permitted inside the packaged foods and whether certain items
bath itself. (eg, gluten) are present.
ITINERARY WAS PERFECTLY
• Do not bring phones, books or newspapers Along the trail, guests are served dinner in
into the bathing area. the evening and breakfast the next morning.
PACED. THE TREKKING WAS • Do not put your head under water in the bath.
When you’re in the onsen...
Meals are served at the guesthouses. You will
also be provided with a lunch pack, which is
BREATHTAKING, CHALLENGING
a fairly simple fare – we recommended you
• Leave your footwear on the shelf at the entry supplement it with your favourite snacks.
to the onsen.
AND VERY SATISFYING. • Remove your clothing or yukata and store it
in the baskets provided.
Dinners and breakfasts on the other hand are
elaborate multi-course affairs and very filling.
There is an emphasis on using fresh, locally
– Annette Tsindos, Hawthorn (VIC) • Remove all jewellery and watches before grown produce and enjoying some of the
soaking as these can be discoloured by the beautiful hand-made dishes will surely be one
mineral-rich waters. of your Kumano highlights.
• If you have long hair, tie it up before soaking.
• If you are feeling embarrassed, use your
small modesty towel to cover yourself while
entering the bathing area.
• Walk slowly – the floors are often wet
and slippery.
• Wash carefully before you enter the onsen
bath. This is very important. Most baths have
small stools to sit on away from the bathing
area. Many onsens also provide soap,
shampoo and conditioner otherwise you can
bring your own if you prefer.
• Enter the water slowly to allow your body to
adjust to the water temperature.
• If your modesty towel accidently falls into the
bath, wring it out away from the bath.
• Drink plenty of water before and after your
bath to prevent dehydration.
Find out more:
Oh, wonderful onsens
Japanese baths
PAGE 22 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 23SECTION 2: TRAVEL ESSENTIALS KUMANO KODO
Along the trail, the majority of food is TRANSPORT For the most up to date information on At Gokurakubashi station, transfer to the
Japanese style only. There are no options for train timetables and fares in Japan, visit cable car that will take you up the mountain to
International airports
Western food as all guests are cooked the www.hyperdia.com Koyasan. The ride will only take you 5 minutes.
same meals in guesthouses. Guesthouses Japan has two major international gateways:
along the trail cannot cater for specific Tokyo’s Narita airport and Osaka’s Kansai Hint: when doing a search, write KiiTanabe and From Koyasan station, it is a 15-minute bus
dietary requirements so this trek is not airport. Osaka (Kansai) is the closest airport KiiKatsuura all together, no dashes or spaces. ride into the town centre. If you are arriving
suitable for those with severe allergies or to Kyoto and the Kii Peninsula. Some people from Kyoto, you will first need to catch a train
strict dietary requirements. The food at the choose to fly in and out of Osaka, some fly Access to Kyoto from Kyoto to Shin-Imamiya station with a
monastery stay is all vegetarian cuisine and in and out of Tokyo, and some fly into Osaka You will make your own way to your centrally transfer at Osaka station (please note this is
a great culinary experience. and out of Tokyo or visa versa. The Kii- located hotel in Kyoto. Joining point hotel different to Shin-Osaka station). The journey
Peninsula is easily accessible by train from details will be sent to you separately from Kyoto to Shin-Imamiya station will take
Both sake and beer are available to enjoy with both cities or airports. as they will depend on your preferred dates you approx. 1 hour.
your meal in guesthouses for an additional and availability.
charge. Tap water is safe to drink in Japan. Public transport If you are arriving from Tokyo, first catch
When travelling in Japan and along the Kumano Kyoto is easily accessible from Japan’s two the bullet train to Shin-Osaka station. From
There are very few places to stop and buy Kodo, you are required to independently use major international gateways – Osaka and Shin-Osaka station, you will take a train to
supplies when you are on the Kumano Kodo public transport. Public transport in Japan is Tokyo. There are two airports in Osaka – Kansai Shin-Imamiya station with a transfer at Osaka
so please ensure you are adequately prepared known for being efficient, reliable and punctual. International and Itami. There are frequent station. The journey from Tokyo to Shin-
with snacks. We recommend bringing your This combined with the friendly, helpful locals direct trains from Kansai International Airport Imamiya station will take you approx. 3½ hours.
favourite energy-rich snacks from home. does make travelling around very manageable to Kyoto and the train ride will take approx. 1½
but you should be comfortable in reading hours. If you are arriving into Itami airport we For the most up to date information on
Foods to try timetables and independently navigating your recommend catching the direct airport shuttle, train timetables and fares in Japan, visit
• Umeboshi – pickled salt plums way around stations and platforms as many which will stop in front of the Kyoto station. The www.hyperdia.com
train journeys do require transfers of trains. train ride from Osaka to Kyoto will take approx.
• Gyoza – Japanese dumpling See Section 3: On The Trail (p36) for more
RAW Travel is more than happy to assist 15 minutes by bullet train or 30 minutes by
• Ramen – Japanese noodle dish with any transportation questions and you local train. information about getting to the trailhead.
• Okonomiyaki – savoury pancake will also receive detailed notes in your pre-
departure pack. You can also travel via train from Tokyo to
• Sashimi – fresh fish sliced into thin pieces. Kyoto, which can be as fast as 2½ hours
Try this at the Nishiki food market in Kyoto. Bus travel from central Tokyo via bullet train. Travel
• Soba (hot and cold) – thin noodles made There are a few short sections along the times will be longer if travelling from Narita/
from buckwheat flour Kumano Kodo where bus travel is necessary Haneda airports.
and/or recommended. Bus tickets cannot be
• Matcha – finely ground powder of specially For the most up to date information on
purchased in advance and are not included in
grown and processed green tea train timetables and fares in Japan, visit
the trip cost. Fares are paid in cash once inside
• Yakitori – Japanese-style skewered chicken the bus. Detailed instructions will be given in www.hyperdia.com
Find out more: The wonderful health your pre-departure pack and during your tour
Access to Koyasan
benefits of Japanese food orientation in Kii-Tanabe. Bus travel in the area
is very straightforward – buses run regularly Koyasan is best accessed by catching the
and are known to be punctual and reliable. Nankai Koya Line from Osaka’s Shin-Imamiya
You should budget approximately AUD30 per station. Take the Nankai Koya Line from Shin-
person for the required bus transfers (more Imamiya to Gokurakubashi station. There are
if you are planning on skipping/shortening a few limited express trains that run directly
walking days). to Gokurakubashi (~1h 20min) or alternatively
you can catch one of the express or rapid
Train travel express trains (~1h 45min) that are more
Individual train tickets cannot be purchased frequent but do generally require a transfer at
outside of Japan and are not included in the the Hashimoto Station along the way.
trip cost. Costs will depend on where you are
coming from and where you are going to after
the trail.
PAGE 24 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 25KUMANO KODO
MAPS available to answer any questions you have to
RAW TRAVEL PROVIDED
help you choose the most suitable trip for you.
Detailed route maps are provided to clients
at their tour orientation in Kii-Tanabe. The Although there are no specific health
EXACTLY THE RIGHT
maps clearly show the route you will follow requirements for Japan, please be aware you
along the Nakahechi trail, plus options for need to be in good health to undertake this
LEVEL OF SUPPORT FOR
additional day walks. trip due to the sometimes demanding days.
You should consult your doctor if you have any
RECOMMENDED APPS
AN AMAZING TRIP. THE
medical conditions to assess your suitability
before departure. You also need to declare,
As technology has improved, the number of
for assessment, any pre-existing medical
RECOMMENDED ITINERARY
options for staying connected while travelling
conditions to your travel insurance provider.
has increased. While this means more choice,
it can also be confusing. Here at RAW we
THAT INCLUDED KYOTO,
There is no reciprocal health agreement
are strong advocates of detoxing and tech-
between Japan and Australia so you will be
free adventures, but it’s still worth knowing
responsible for any hospital and other medical
KOYASAN AND KUMANO KODO
what’s reliable and economical. We asked our
charges you incur.
Destination Experts for their favourite ways to
WAS PERFECT!
stay in touch, as well as recommendations for In the event of an incident or medical
travel apps that you will actually use! emergency on the walk, the default mode
of evacuation is by helicopter. It is essential
• Find out more:
– Wayne Forrest, Oatlands (NSW) that all guests have comprehensive travel
How to stay connected, plus travel apps
insurance, medical insurance or ambulance
you will actually use
insurance that will cover the cost of
helicopter evacuation.
HEALTH
Medical care in Japan is of a great standard
To participate fully in an active travel
but is very expensive. Payment in full or a
experience you need to be in good physical
guarantee that costs will be met is usually
health. Read the trip itineraries on the website
required at the time of treatment.
thoroughly and then realistically self-assess
your physical ability to complete the trip • Find out more: Medical facilities in Japan
as described. Our Destination Experts are
PAGE 26 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 27SECTION 2: TRAVEL ESSENTIALS KUMANO KODO
First aid supplies Preventing blisters Blister treatment TRAVEL INSURANCE
We recommend that you carry first aid The key to preventing blisters and avoiding Broken blisters that are leaking fluid should If you are travelling on any trip with RAW
supplies for common ailments as well as any unnecessary pain is to eliminate friction. be disinfected and bandaged. Unbroken Travel you will require comprehensive
personal medical requirements as you will Different things work for different people, but blisters that are painful should be pricked with travel insurance. We sell Cover-More travel
be travelling in remote areas and away from one thing’s for sure: blisters can be prevented a sterile needle and drained. Small blisters insurance and you can easily get a quote
medical facilities. with a little bit of effort. that are not painful should be left alone over the phone. No one plans for anything
because the best protection against infection to go wrong, but if it does we want to make
Your first aid supplies should include (but not Here’s a range of blister prevention strategies is the blister’s own skin. These will heal by sure that you have adequate cover.
be limited to): for you to test on your training walks. themselves and will be reabsorbed in a few
days. If you do have blisters, shower in the We highly recommend you purchase cover
• Band-aids, bandages and dressings 1. Buy comfortable, well-fitting walking boots. evening to allow your feet to be fully dry when as soon as you start booking your travel
• Blister pads for your feet and zinc tape you dress them and set off in the morning. arrangements, and include cancellation
2. Toughen up. Condition your feet by
cover. Your travel insurance also must
• Antiseptic for cuts and scrapes walking, gradually building intensity, pace
VISAS include emergency evacuation and medical
and distance. Remember to moisturise
• High factor sunscreen cover. There is no reciprocal health
your feet with a good quality foot cream At the time of writing, Australians and New
• Headache tablets agreement between Japan and Australia so
after showering. Zealanders only needed a valid passport you will be responsible for all hospital and
• Diarrhoea treatment and a return ticket to enter Japan as a tourist other medical charges you incur.
3. Adjust your laces during your walk so that for stays of no more than 90 days. Visitors
We recommend using zinc oxide tape/ your shoes fit perfectly. Foot swelling and are stamped in on arrival at the airport. All Please contact your insurance provider
moleskin to cover ‘hot spots’ on your feet to different temperatures and terrain will travellers must have a minimum of 6 months to ensure your policy covers you for your
stop potential blisters developing. affect the fit of your boots. validity (after their date of return into Australia) specific needs. Carry a copy of your policy
on their passport. Please confirm these and your insurer’s 24 hour contact details.
4. Slather your feet thickly with a lubricant
requirements with your chosen airline.
like Vaseline. You’ll need to reapply it, and
Any advice given here is a general guide only.
it doesn’t wash easily out of socks.
SMART TRAVELLER Please research and purchase a policy best
5. Put cornflour or talcum powder in your suited to your needs and circumstances.
Be informed. Be prepared. Stay smart while
socks to keep your feet dry.
you are travelling. Smartraveller is provided by • Find out more: 10 things you need to
6. Keep your toenails short. the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs know about travel insurance
and Trade. It provides up-to-date travel advice
7. Invest in good socks. Use moisture- for Australians travelling overseas. You can
wicking socks and consider double-layers. subscribe to receive free updates, including
Experiment with the thickness of your about widespread health or security issues.
socks, and change them whenever your www.smartraveller.gov.au
feet get wet.
8. Apply tape (such as Fixomul) or dressings
to reduce friction. It can be difficult to
perfect the technique and can be time
consuming, so you’ll need to practise.
9. Always carry blister pads in your daypack.
The cushioned gel pad immediately
reduces pain and promotes fast healing.
You can even use them to prevent blisters.
10. See a podiatrist if you think the way you
walk might predispose you to blisters. You
might need orthotics.
PAGE 28 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 29KUMANO KODO
WHAT TO PACK
THE PRE-TRIP INFORMATION Walking the Kumano Kodo is similar to
preparing for any multi-day walk, with the
AND BRIEFING WAS
exception that your wet weather gear may be
needed more frequently.
INCREDIBLY HELPFUL. Your main luggage is transported for you on
all trekking days, so you carry only a daypack.
ACCOMMODATION ALONG Your trip includes one piece of luggage person.
Additional pieces will need to be arranged in
THE ROUTE WAS
advance and will incur a fee. You should pack
as lightly as possible and we recommend
keeping the weight of your luggage case under
OUTSTANDING – GREAT 15kg as you will need to carry your bag in and
out of trains and buses as well as sometimes
FOOD AND LODGINGS WITH up the stairs at accommodations.
You will need to bring a good daypack when
DELIGHTFUL SURPRISES, out walking to carry a few clothing layers and
personal effects. We recommend carrying at
SUCH AS THE PRIVATE least 2 litres of water, on hot days even more.
ONSEN HUT IN YUNOMINE. SPECIALIST GEAR RECOMMENDED
FOR THIS WALK
Waterproof walking boots
– David Scanlon, Vaucluse (NSW)
Waterproof walking boots with full ankle Trekking poles
support are recommended for this walk. On this trail there are many steep ascents and
Make sure your footwear is well worn in and descents, sometimes on stone staircases and
comfortable. We also recommend hiking socks over tree roots. Trekking poles will give you
with at least one spare pair, as you will find extra stability, especially when it is wet. We
these minimise the chance of getting blisters definitely recommend them if you have – or
(see p28). have had – any issues at all with sore knees,
ankles or hips.
• Find out more: What boots should I buy
and how do I look after them? • Find out more: Do I need trekking poles
and which ones should I buy?
Good wet-weather gear
This is a wet part of Japan and you can expect
rain at any time of year, so bring:
• waterproof boots (no trainers)
• waterproof, breathable jacket and
overtrousers
• waterproof cover for your daypack
• internal lightweight drybags (no cover will
ever be able to keep your belongings dry in a
real downpour, or a consistent day’s rain)
PAGE 30 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 31SECTION 2: TRAVEL ESSENTIALS KUMANO KODO
Snacks Personal Items When you submit your booking form, you are ✔ I have a valid passport and all necessary
This part of Japan is rural and remote; • Blister kit, rehydration salts, mosquito committing to an itinerary and travel dates. visas and vaccinations required for travel.
shops are scarce along the trail and sell only repellant, sunscreen and first-aid kit including When arrangements are confirmed, non-
Japanese snacks, which may not be to your any personal medication you use refundable deposits are paid to suppliers ✔ I will read the RAW travel pre-trip materials
liking, so bring from home in sealed unopened to secure these bookings. Any changes about clothing, medical requirements, and
• Toiletries to the itinerary and/or travel dates after culture-specific etiquette.
packets what you would normally eat on a
hike, eg: trail mix, muesli bars, coconut oil • Water bottle(s) or hydration pack arrangements have been confirmed will incur
(2+ litres recommended) additional charges. ✔ I will respect the laws and customs of
sachets, vital greens, protein bars, quinoa and
countries visited.
brown rice tubs, or any other snacks you know • Hat and high UV sunglasses
work for you. PARTICIPATION CONDITIONS ✔ I will follow environmental guidelines and
• Comfortable daypack
To travel with RAW Travel you must accept regulations while on the trip in accordance
Some of our favourite Japanese snacks to • Waterproof bags for rain protection
the booking conditions (online at the with the RAW Travel leader’s direction.
look out for include Japanese rice crackers, while walking
Pocky sticks, wasabi peas and roasted time of booking), which include the following
‘participation conditions’: ✔ I will respect the rights and privacy of other
seaweed snacks. Clothing trip members.
• Several pairs of walking socks When booking on one of our trips the applicant
Japanese phrasebook ✔ I understand that travel within a group
• T-shirts (lightweight quick drying fabric) understands that RAW Travel operates adventure
Little English is spoken along the trail but this invariably involves compromise to
holidays worldwide. In developing countries,
is not usually a problem due to the warm •L
ong-sleeved trekking shirts accommodate diverse desires, travel goals,
the standards of accommodation, transport,
helpful nature of your friendly Japanese hosts. personalities, and physical abilities of all
• Shorts/lightweight trousers safety, hygiene, telecommunication facilities,
RAW Travel provides all its walkers with a group members.
level of infrastructure development and medical
phrasebook and a briefing in English at the •W
arm fleece, sweater, thermals, hat, gloves
facilities are not equivalent to those familiar to
beginning of their walk. (during winter, spring and autumn) ✔ RAW Travel leaders may be required to
the applicant’s usual living arrangements, or
improvise and exercise good faith, use
•W
aterproof and breathable jacket and would find on a conventional holiday. This type of
Mobile phone discretion and/or make decisions based
over trousers (essential; this is the wettest trip inherently involves a higher level of personal
On self-guided trips you should carry a mobile upon group consensus. These decisions
part of Japan) risk, which the applicant agrees to fully assume.
phone. Mobile coverage can be anything from may not always please each individual, but
• Spare pair of trainers The applicant acknowledges that travel on a RAW
fairly good to non-existent along the trail but are intended to satisfy the larger desires of
Travel trip requires a degree of flexibility, and
you should have fairly consistent coverage in •S
wimwear (permitted in certain public hot the group.
understands that the trip’s route, accommodation
most of the towns where you will overnight. spring baths) and modes of transport are subject to change ✔ I understand that RAW Travel reserves
Many clients organise travel SIM cards prior
without prior notice due to local circumstances. the right to refuse participation during a
to departure or rent phones and/or wifi
HOW TO BOOK YOUR RAW TRAVEL TRIP Should RAW Travel deem it advisable to amend tour to anyone whose health or behaviour
packages from companies like Japan Wireless,
an itinerary for any reason, it may do so by could impede the welfare or enjoyment of
which offers fantastic coverage along the trail. Before making a booking, please read this
shortening, varying or re-routing any trip. These fellow guests. An individual may benasked
We recommend that at least one member of Destination Guide thoroughly to make sure
changes are binding and additional expenses will to leave a trip if the leader feels that the
your group is connected to the local Japanese that the Kumano Kodo is right for you. We
be charged to the applicant if the reason for any person’s continuing participation may prove
phone network service. have compiled lots of important information
major alteration is outside RAW Travel’s control. detrimental to the individual or the group.
about accommodation, food, fitness required,
OTHER ITEMS TO PACK weather and what to expect so that you can
make an informed decision. On our website, RAW TRAVELLER’S CODE ✔ I understand travelling off the beaten track
Travel documents you’ll also find detailed itineraries and other means access to medical facilities and
By paying your deposit and completing evacuation services may be limited.
• Passport (with photocopies or scanned important information. your booking forms with us, you signal
back-up copy) your agreement to the following RAW
A deposit of AUD500 per person is due at the ✔ I understand the weather is out of RAW
•C
opy of travel insurance policy and Traveller’s Code: Travel’s control.
time of booking and balance of payment is
24-hour contact number
required 8 weeks prior to travel. All quotes are ✔ I have chosen a trip that suits my abilities, ✔ I will drink alcohol responsibly.
• Airline and other ticket(s) subject to availability at the time of booking level of fitness, and state of health.
and valid for 7 days. Please contact your
• Credit card and spending money
Destination Expert for your personalised ✔ I do not have any physical conditions or
in cash (YEN)
booking link. disabilities that are a hazard to me or other
RAW travellers
PAGE 32 PAGE 33SECTION 3:
ON THE TRAIL
Getting to the trailhead 36
Luggage transfers 36
Buying supplies 36
Language 36
Culture and etiquette 37
Mobile, wifi and internet coverage 39
Electricity 39
Money 39
Safety in Japan 40
How much water to carry 41
Emergency contacts 41
PAGE 34 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 35SECTION 3: ON THE TRAIL KUMANO KODO
GETTING TO THE TRAILHEAD The luggage shuttle pick-up location on the • Itadakimasu / 頂きます | Bon appétit Japanese bath etiquette
first trekking day is either from your hotel Enjoying a Japanese bath is a unique cultural
Access to Kii-Tanabe • Oishii desu / おいしいです | Delicious
in Kii-Tanabe or the bus stop in Kii-Tanabe. experience. For first timers, it may be a little
This is the overnight destination where you Your trip notes will confirm which option has • Wakarimasen / 分かりません | I don’t intimidating. See p21 for some important tips
stay the night before your trek begins and been organised for you. Luggage shuttle is understand on bathing.
where you will have your pre-trek briefing. one piece per passenger – additional pieces
A train from Osaka to Kii-Tanabe takes roughly • Kudasai / ださい | Please
will need to be arranged in advance and will Be polite
2 to 2½ hours depending on connections. incur a fee. Additional luggage can be stored • O-genki desu ka / おげんきですか | How
Foreigners have a reputation for being noisy
in Kii-Tanabe for a daily fee of JPY500, so long are you?
Kyoto to Kii-Tanabe trains are also frequent in Japan, especially on public transport, so be
as you plan to travel via Kii-Tanabe after your • Genki desu / げんきです | I’m fine thank you respectful; it’s impolite to answer your phone
(either direct or via Shin-Osaka) and will take
trek to your onward destination. while on a train or bus. If you’re listening to
2½ to 3 hours. To reach the trailhead, you • Hai / はい | Yes
will catch a 40-minute bus from Kii-Tanabe to music, turn the volume down low. It’s ruder in
BUYING SUPPLIES • Iie / いいえ | No Japan to blow your nose in public than sniff,
Takijiri-oji on your first trekking day.
• Dozo yuroshiku / どうぞよろしく | Nice to and avoid eating on the go. Japanese people
There are very few places to stop and buy
Onward travels from end of the trek meet you often wear paper face masks, and while this
supplies when you are on the Kumano Kodo
Your trek ends in Nachisan, a small village might look odd to you, it’s perfectly logical. It’s
so you will need to ensure that you are
located 25-minutes by bus inland from CULTURE AND ETIQUETTE to keep them, and you, healthy. During cherry
adequately prepared with snacks. There is a
Kii-Katsuura. Your accommodation that night blossom season they’re also worn to keep
convenience store in Kii-Tanabe next to the Japan’s fascinating culture is a highlight of
will either be in Nachisan or Kii-Katsuura. allergies away.
train station where you can buy tasty Japanese this beautiful country but sometimes the
Buses run frequently from Nachisan to snacks. We also recommend you bring culture can seem a little impenetrable to
Kii-Katsuura station. your favourite energy rich snacks in sealed outsiders and it is easy to make some cultural
unopened packets that you would normally blunders on your first visit. Japanese people
From Kii-Katsuura, you will continue via train enjoy on a hike. do not expect outsiders to be aware of all
to your onwards destination. Tickets are not the complex cultural rules they abide by and
included in the trip cost and can be purchased See also Food & Drinks, p23. fortunately allowances are made. However,
locally at the Kii-Katsuura train station. some basics are expected to be followed,
LANGUAGE especially concerning footwear and bathing.
Approximate train travel times to main hubs
Get them wrong and you will cause great
in Japan: Kansai Airport (4 hours), Osaka Most Japanese people you will encounter in offence, so do your research before you go.
(4 hours), Kyoto (4½ hours), Tokyo (6 hours). the accommodations may not speak fluent
Note that some days there are only a few English but they can generally understand at Footwear
trains running and connections may not be least a few basic words of English and, usually,
Always remove your shoes when entering
ideal – this may affect travel times outlined communication is not a problem due to the
someone’s home/guesthouse and leave them
above, so please plan ahead. For the most willingness of the friendly locals to help.
in the baskets or shelves provided at the
up-to-date information on train timetables
entrance. It’s customary to change into the
in Japan, visit www.hyperdia.com Japanese people are very helpful and good at
slippers provided when entering a Japanese
anticipating guests’ needs, so they can usually
home or a guesthouse, and not uncommon
LUGGAGE TRANSFERS understand most basic requirements even if
in traditional restaurants, temples and,
they don’t speak English themselves.
Your main luggage will be transferred by occasionally, in museums and art galleries.
private van on all trekking days. It will be Useful phrases
picked up from your accommodation each If you come across a slightly raised floor and
• Ohayo Gozaimasu / おはようございます | a row of slippers, then use them; leave your
morning, so you must have your main luggage Good morning
packed and downstairs in time for the pick- shoes either on the lower floor (the genkan) or
up. After that, it is up to you when you start • Konnichiwa / 今⽇日は | Good day / hello on the shelves (sometimes lockers) provided.
walking each day but be mindful that you need Also, try not to step on the genkan with bare
• Konbanwa / こんばんは | Good evening
to arrive at your next accommodation by 6pm or stockinged feet. Once inside, remove your
• Sumimasen / すみません | Excuse me slippers before stepping onto tatami, the
because dinner is at a set time. In the evening
your luggage will be waiting for you at your • Arigatou gozaimasu / ありがとうございます rice-straw flooring, and remember to change
next accommodation. | Thank you very much into the special toilet slippers if provided when
entering the toilet/bathroom.
PAGE 36 www.kumanokodo.com.au PAGE 37You can also read
