"FOR OUR WHOLE COMMUNITY" - HAIR CARE Influences of urban lifestyles p 10 - COSSMA
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www.cossma.com | E51280 06 / 2020
HAIR CARE
Influences of
urban lifestyles
p 10
MARKETING
The impact of the
corona pandemic
p 44
“FOR OUR WHOLE
COMMUNITY”
Enrico Zannini, BolognaFiere
p 58
Colourful is beautiful –
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EDITORIAL
Creative solutions
T
he corona virus has been bothering us for several months now and has caused FOLLOW COSSMA ON:
restrictions in our business and private lives for almost as long. While I still
find some measures very stressful, I got to others easily enough. The restric-
tions we have accepted seem to have helped. The number of new infections has
dropped so much that many countries are easing their restrictions slowly, which
makes daily life easier. www.cossma.com
Despite all the losses that our industry has suffered, there is also something positive
to report. The limited possibilities to move about due to the quarantine measures
have resulted in an upsurge of creativity. Industry professionals are finding new
ways to connect and to get the job done.
www.linkedin.com/company/cossma-digital
An interesting example is an important trade fair. Since it cannot take place now, it
has created a large virtual event, with personal discussions, product presentations
and even lectures (p 58).
We are seeing companies working on creative solutions in a wide variety of areas,
mostly based on the internet, and are thus mastering logistical feats.
www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine
Stay creative, stay optimistic and above all stay healthy!
www.youtube.de/cossmatv
Sincerely yours,
Georg von Griesheim,
Managing Director
www.cossma.com l3
Contents
COSSMA 06/2020
7 MARKETS & 14 Aurélie Brunel, Seppic:
In Balance with sustainability
COMPANIES
16 Yohan Rolland, et al.,
07 News Givaudan:
Wheat power
8 GO FUTURE: 18 Michelle Strutton, Mintel:
International launches
HAIR CARE
10 Sabrina Leoty-Okombi, BASF:
The burdens of urban lifestyles 20 INGREDIENTS
22 Dr Karl Lintner, Kal’Idées,
Dr Zafarizal Aldrin Azizul
Hasan, Malaysian Palm Oil
50
Easy to
Board: Palm oil: Good or bad?
26 Tanja Budde, Omya;
recycle Bye bye hypersensitive teeth
28 Formulations: Sun Care
29 News Ingredients
30 COSMETIC
CONTAINERS
30 Interview with Dominic Bakic,
Bakic Group: PCR is the key
4l COSSMA 06 I 2020
08–18
Current developments
with hair care
36 Effects of Corona Crisis
40 Sandra Haßler, Lemikos: SERVICES
Importing cosmetics from outside
3 Editorial
the EU
6 Download List
44 Interview with Belinda Carli, 61 Events Diary
Institute of Personal Care
62 Suppliers‘ Guide
Service: Fighting the crisis
65 Advertisers’ Index
46 Andrew McDaugall, Mintel: 66 Preview/Imprint
Panorama of humanity
48 PACKAGING
50 Volker Gogoll, vogomedia:
Single material only
54 Interview with Arne Fehlhaber,
brandpack: Nice packaging!
46 Panorama of humanity
57 News Packaging
58 PERSONALITIES &
34 MARKETING PROFILES
36 Interview with Mai Gräfe, 58 Interview with Enrico Zannini,
Intergate Consulting: BolognaFiere: For our whole
Front cover picture:
China after Corona community Enrico Zannini, BolognaFiere SA
www.cossma.com l5
SERVICES
Free Downloads
for subscribers | www.cossma.com/download
CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: WWW.COSSMA.COM/TV
ADA OOI MATTEO MORETTI PROF DR CORNELIA M KECK
Founder of 001 Skincare President of Polo Cosmesi Professor for Pharmaceuticals
about the origins of her brand and its about the Italian association Polo about future visions for anti ageing
East meets West approach. Cosmesi and green packaging. ingredients.
DR ADOLF KLENK CAMILLA MARCUS-DEW ÉLIE PAPIERNIK
Head of Research, Dr Kurt Wolff Co-Founder of The Soap Co. Design Director, Managing Partner,
about the latest finding in the effect about a luxury skin care brand Centdegrés
of caffeine. produced by people with disabilities. about innovative designs and
packaging trends.
photo: Kiuikson, Shutterstock.com
LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE!
On the COSSMA website, we post lots of additional information related to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find more than 1,000
useful additional items to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we
cover; market data and statistics; supplier listings; literature references; scientific articles; product formulations and useful base formulations.
Search for the topics you are interested in at www.cossma.com
6 l COSSMA 06 I 2020 www.cossma.com
MARKETS
News
A PLACE TO BEE SITUATION OF
ALUMINIUM AEROSOL
GABRIEL CHEMIE | As
Online CAN INDUSTRY
part of the sustainability
strategy, the family com- training & AEROBAL | “The packaging industry is
pany is now thrilled to have consumer far less affected by the cuts than other
moved ten bee colonies into testing at industries,” says Aerobal President Leopold
Werdich. Certain market segments should
its Austrian headquarters
in Gumpoldskirchen.
home even enjoy a temporary boom in demand.
The explosion in global production of
Stefanie Sommer, chief
INOVAPOTHEK | Driv- disinfectants, for example, is also opening
strategy & sustainability
en by the current corona unexpected business opportunities for
officer welcomed the new
Stefanie Sommer welcomes pandemic situation, the manufacturers of aluminium aerosol cans.
colleagues in person and the new „colleagues” at the company has provided They offer solutions for numerous hygiene
emphasised the motivation Austrian headquarter.
new services by adapt- and pharmaceutical products that meet the
behind this undertaking:
highest hygienic requirements and consider
“We are supporting biodiversity and as part of our sustaina-
customers’ sustainability concepts.
bility strategy we have made it our duty to protect the bees,
www.aerobal.org
since the diversity of plant species and thus the ecological
balance of the earth are inseparably linked to bees.”
www.gabriel-chemie.com
Work on a good climate The new offer includes
online training as
CONSTANTIA FLEXIBLES | This year, the company has well as consumer
testing at home.
been selected as one of 50 global companies to take part
in an international sustainability and climate initiative, ing previous services
initiated by the TBD media group. More sustainability such as training and con-
along the entire production supply chain always has been sumer testing. Now they
a priority for the company. The presentation of a more sus- also offer online training
tainable product line in 2019, the opening of the first plant to promote knowledge
producing recyclable flexible packaging only, as well as the and new skills at home.
ambitious target The focus is on private
to almost halve training for each com-
greenhouse gas pany. Consumer testing
emissions by 2050, is now available to any
are examples of the Aluminium aerosol can industry is not as affected
company that wants to by the corona pandemic as some other industries.
company’s leader- learn more about con-
ship in the field of
photos: Aerobal, Gabriel Chemie, Inovapothek, Constantia Flexibles, Klingele
sumer acceptance of
sustainability. their products.
www.cflex.com www.inovapothek.com
Constantia Flexibles wants to halve
greenhouse gas emissions by 2050.
100-YEAR ANNIVERSARY
KLINGELE | One of the leading manufacturers of corrugated base paper and corru-
gated cardboard packaging, commemorates its 100-year anniversary this year. Alfred
Timing Klingele, the grandfather of the current managing partner Dr. Jan Klingele, founded
YEARS Technology the company as “Badische Wellpapierfabrik Klingele und Holfelder” on 21 April 1920,
Teamwork together with his brother-in-law Emil Holfelder. Today, the Klingele Group is active on
three continents with production sites in ten countries. The planned anniversary celebra-
This year the company celebrates tions have been postponed until autumn due to the coronavirus crisis.
its 100-year anniversary. www.klingele.com
www.cossma.com l7
8l
COSSMA 06 I 2020
www.cossma.com
photos:Sofia
photo: Business/Shutterstock.com
LuckyZhuravect/Shutterstock.com
GO FUTURE
Hair care
The burdens of urban lifestyles�����������������������������������������������������������������p 10
In balance with sustainability�������������������������������������������������������������������p 14
Wheat power �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 16
International launches ���������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 18
www.cossma.com l9
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
The Burdens of
NN Sabrina Leoty-Okombi
R&D project leader, BASF
Beauty Care Solutions,
Lyon, France,
urban lifestyles
www.carecreations.basf.com
10 l COSSMA 06 I 2020 www.cossma.comGO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Ingredients | One issue that concerns
consumers is the impact of urban lifestyles
on scalp and hair health. Dandruff, oily
hair and itchy sensations are among the
main problems for which BASF has now
developed an active ingredient.
M
ore than half of the world’s population currently
lives in urban areas – and this is expected to reach
70% by 2050. While city living can be dynamic
and exhilarating, it also exposes the hair and scalp to a
range of factors that affect their beauty and vitality. Stress,
pollution and hairstyling can cause the sebaceous glands in
the hair follicles to produce too much sebum, which makes
hair greasy or oily. And – less well known until recently –
dust or pollution can form deposits on the scalp and hair
fibres that gradually asphyxiate the important microbes
living there, leading to skin discomfort, irritation and
sometimes dandruff.
Consumers are increasingly aware of the need to counter-
act the impact that their urban lifestyle has on their hair
and scalp. A Mintel survey in Italy, for example, showed
that 52% of respondents are interested in haircare products
that prevent the build-up of pollution, while 31% of people
in India indicate that stress has an impact on the appear-
ance of their hair. In Brazil, 54% of consumers are worried FROM TREND
about the health of their scalp¹. These concerns are driving
a trend for specialized hair care products around the world. TO PRODUCT
Fragile microbiota
The scalp supports several types of micro-organisms living
in harmony with human scalp cells. The combination of RHEOLOGY
grease and pollution changes the physical parameters of
Substitute for synthetic polymers
the scalp – and this disrupts the fragile balance of the
TEXTURE
5α Reductase gene expression
Discover natural alternatives to
PMMA and Nylon-12
ZERO WASTE
Statistics: Less packaging through solid forms
Mean ± SD
Gene expression (%)
n=4
One Way ANOVA
vs control EXFOLIATION
(*) pGO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Change in Scalp Sebum level Taxa number
Increase in taxa numbers vs D0 in %
Placebo Placebo
Scalposine at 1% Scalposine at 1%
Improvement vs D0 in %
Statistics: Statistics:
Percentage on Percentage from
11-12-17 volunteers 9 to 16 volunteers
Student t test Mann-Whitney test
(*) pGO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
ness decrease by up to 75% after one month. This is an
important outcome because dandruff is a pressing concern
We
for many adults worldwide.
In addition, participants also stated that they were able to
wait for longer between washing their hair with shampoo –
saving them time and potentially reducing their environ- believe that
mental footprint.
taking care
Scientific studies
Sarcosine has also been proven to reset and rebalance the is taking
microbiome ecosystem of the scalp, which had been almost
unexplored until now. In a metagenomic study, BASF ex- action.
plored the difference between the microbiota of a normal
scalp and that of an oily scalp. The analysis was conducted
on 40 volunteers with an oily scalp and 28 volunteers with
a normal scalp. Scientific literature had already shown that
skin microbiota diversity decreases in oily areas of skin
like the forehead². The new analysis confirmed that the
diversity of the microbiota is lower on an oily scalp than on a
normal scalp.
In addition, six strains of bacteria were successfully iden-
tified that have a major presence on a normal scalp and
that contribute to overall scalp health. Based on this, the
experts conducted a further metagenomic analysis to com-
C
pare the effect of a shampoo formula containing Sarcosine
at 1% to a placebo formula. It was tested during a one- M
month placebo-controlled clinical study that involved two Y
groups of participants (Placebo: n=12 / Sarcosine: n=17). CM
The participants (both genders) were aged from 19 to 66
MY
and all had an oily scalp (sebumeter >120). The re-
searcher found that the shampoo containing Sarcosine CY
increased the diversity of the microbiome of the scalp after CMY
one month of application – with the number of species K
increasing by 36% (Figure 4).
Furthermore, Sarcosine also boosts the recolonization of
the ecosystem by the six beneficial strains of bacteria that
the researchers previously identified. This represents a
prebiotic effect, as it stimulates the growth of advantageous
bacteria in the scalp.
Conclusion
The global trend for urbanization is driving consumer de-
mand for solutions that counteract the negative impact
that stress, pollution and hairstyling products have on their
hair and scalp. Sarcosine can act as a scalp detox to restore
the beauty and health of the hair and scalp.
By reducing sebum production and encouraging beneficial
strains of microbes, this new cosmetic ingredient helps
prevent scalp asphyxiation and reduce flaking, itching and
a greasy appearance after one month of application. Q Our
commitment
to people,
References
communities
and our planet
1. Guinaugh O, Shampoo, Conditioner and Hairstyling Products - US – Mintel Report,
March 2019
is the force
2. Science. 2009 May 29; 324(5931): 1190–1192
that moves l 13
us
forward.
www.cossma.comGO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
In balance with sustainability
Ingredients | Consumers ask more and more for sustainable products. But that does not
only mean using recycled packaging. The production process also plays an important role.
A new active ingredient shows how this need can be met in hair care.
NN Aurélie Brunel, experiencing a paradox between More sustainability
cosmetic market manager, product multiplication and sustaina- This product offer multiplication,
Paris, France, bility. Part of the increase in the num- however, is increasing the environ-
www.seppic.com ber of new products in hair comes mental impact of the hair care indus-
from skin care, which seems to be try and brands are starting to take
photos: Stock-Asso, IrenaStar/shutterstock.com
taking over all beauty markets. action on packaging with concen-
Skin care has especially inspired an trated formats or recycled plastic bot-
entire new product space including tles. The next step is to lower the
H
air care is a dynamic market sleeping masks, scalp scrubs and lots impact from formulation process.
with a global forecasted value of different leave-on textures (sprays, Brands are looking for greener per-
growth of 5,5% by 2023¹. The balms, cream-gel, jelly, …) to obtain formance alternatives for hair care
market is trending toward more nat- the healthy hair look. applications to reduce their global
urality and eco-consciousness while Reminiscent of skincare, claims like impact on the environment. Replac-
keeping the key performance on hair. “anti-pollution” and even block- ing performant non-environmentally
As consumers are paying more and buster ingredients like hyaluronic friendly conditioning agents with
more attention to their environmen- acid can now be found in shampoos more natural and sustainable alter-
tal impact, the hair care market is and conditioners. natives is not an easy task as condi-
14 l COSSMA 06 I 2020GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Geltrap has shown the same condi-
tioning results as Polyquaternium-10
in an aqueous gel application with a
lower active content (0,5% a.m. for
Polyquaternium-10 versus 0,41%
a.m. for Simulquat HC 3052).
The patented hair conditioning for-
mula, which contains less than 15
INCI names, offers great stabilising
properties, the possibility of creating
a variety of glossy textures, good con-
ditioning performance, and a simple
approach. At the same time, it saves
energy, time and ressources. It is tick-
ing all the boxes for next generation
sustainability. Q
References
1 Euromonitor Data 2018, www.euromonitor.com
2 T ests performed internally with Diastron MTT 175 on
Caucasian damaged hair strand. Geltrap compared
to different hot process O/W.
3 Calculation based on a 5kg batch
tioners currently available are very silicone-like feel that provides great
appreciated around the globe for glide and cushioning all along the
their efficacy. strand of hair. Not using silicones
greatly reduces the product’s carbon
Cold processes footprint. The sand extraction and the
But there is a first step towards more process for obtaining silicones have
planet-friendly alternative to classic a very negative impact on the envi-
hot process conditioners, which are ronment, in terms of energy use, pol-
showing the same conditioning per- lution created, and destruction of
formance on hair tresses². Geltrap, a ecosystems.
new gel-in-oil texture, allows to save
energy thanks to its cold process. In Saving resources
fact, 98% less energy compared to The patented technology also gives
hot process O/W³ emulsion and 74% the possibility of reducing the amount
less compared to a cold process O/W of oily phase as only 10% is neces-
emulsion. This energy saving also sary to obtain the same results as hot
helps to decrease CO2 emission from process O/W formulas containing up
the manufacturing process (-4,6 kg of to 15% of oil phase.
CO2 for a 5 kg batch³), the green- Because the liquid cationic texturiser
house gas responsible for ozone deg- is already pre-neutralised, it makes
radation, which makes the new for- product development easier from
mulation a real resource saver as it brief to shelves. It allows to create di-
also to reduce manufacturing time by verse textures with different cold pro-
78% versus hot process O/W³. cess shear and also avoids the denatur-
This trendy hair conditioner is cre- ation of heat sensitive ingredient. It
ated by the combination of Easynov helps to stabilize and gives a glossy
and Simulquat HC 305. The skincare appearance to any hair conditioning
inspired texture is easy-to-spread on formula and boosts manufacture per- Sustainable produced conditioners
hair. The patented conditioner has a formance by saving energy and time. keep the hair supple.
www.cossma.com l 15GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Wheat power
Ingredients | The demand for natural ingredients is growing in Hair care is an important part of
photo and figures: Subbotina Anna/Shutterstock, Givauda
hair care. Researchers have found that wheat proteins can replace regular personal hygiene around the
world. After all, healthy and shiny
chemicals that pollute the environment. Specialists look at this and hair is considered to be a beauty
the most innovative trends in personal care now. symbol. No wonder that the demand
for hair care products is high. Con-
sumers expect benefits like easier
NN Yohan Rolland, global category manager, detangling and styling, greater
Romain Reyunaud, R&D director, shine or better smoothness for their
Amandine Scandolera, Ph. D, hair. These additional properties
head of biological evaluation, are brought into the formulas by
Emilie Chapuis, clinical trial manager conditioners.
Mélanie Pélican, communications specialist, Among the most frequently used con-
all Pomacle, France, ditioners are quaternary ammoni-
www.givaudan.com
ums. Those chemical cationic mole-
cules act by anti-static effect, and
16 l COSSMA 06 I 2020GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
On dry hair On wet hair
Combability Smoothness Combability Detangling
Wheat Peptides 3% Modified guar Wheat Peptides 3% Modified guar Wheat Peptides 3% Modified guar Wheat Peptides 3% Modified guar
polymers 0.3% polymers 0.3% polymers 0.3% polymers 0.3%
Figure 1: Comparison of wheat peptides and modified Figure 2: Comparison of wheat peptides and modified
guar polymers for the combability for dry hair. guar polymers for the combability of wet hair.
have detangling, lubricating and in essential amino acids. With a gen- gredient can deliver the same level of
sheathing properties. Not natural and tle enzymatic hydrolysis, the protein performance as usual chemical con-
mostly non-biodegradable quaternary chains are cut intoGO FUTURE: NEW IDEAS
Product development | This month Mintel focuses on haircare and
products that cater to the specialised needs of “lockdown hair” for
example, those that appeal to women embracing their grey or growing
their hair during lockdowns.
T
he Covid-19 crisis will drive
further interest in eco and Shrub products Beauty Kitchen
“clean” trends. It can also act Plant extracts promise intense effect. Suitable for all hair types.
as a catalyst for greater change in the
fight against climate change; local
sourcing will become more impor-
tant. “Clean beauty” themes – lin-
ked to safety and transparency – will
home in on consumer’s increased
sensibilities in these areas.
Potent ampoule formula
Esthetic House “CP-1 Maska dlya
Volos” (3 Seconds Hair Fill-Up Hair
Clinic Ampoule) is said to provide
emergency assistance to damaged
hair within three seconds. Accord-
ing to the manufacturer, its liquid product is also claimed to restore the with lunaria naturally sourced from
formula acts on the principle of a structure of damaged hair as a result the honesty plant, nettle, elderflower
filler – when combined with water, of thermal and chemical treatments, and willow extract, and said to nour-
it instantly transforms into a concen- smoothen and revitalise as well as ish and enhance shine. It also con-
trated cream that quickly penetrates provide shine, silkiness and a healthy tains celery to soothe and help with
into the deep layers of the hair folli- appearance. dry, flaky scalp.
cle, intensively nourishes and satu-
rates them with moisture from the Herbs for the hair Reusable aluminium bottles
inside, preserving the nourishing ef- “Scalp Soother Conditioner” from It is said that Beauty Kitchen’s “The
fect for a long time. The rinse-out Fushi is described as an herb-en- Sustainables Fragrance Free Organic
riched conditioner that contains Vegan Aloe Conditioner” is designed
calming chickweed and gentle red for all hair types in need of repair,
clover, to soothe and refresh an irri- moisture, colour care and shine. It
CP-1 Fushi tated and sensitive scalp, whilst ari- is packed full of super-gentle, natu-
Has properties of Ecological producing tha helping to nourish and rebalance ral and sustainably sourced ingredi-
a hair-filler. plays a major role. the hair. The product is good for flaky ents, such as organic aloe vera and
scalp, irritated skin and nourishment, coconut oil, said to leave hair feeling
and has been made using bio-dynam- smooth, manageable and shiny. The
ically grown red clover herb, as well vegan and cruelty-free product con-
as ethically sourced, cold-pressed, tains 100% naturally derived and na-
unrefined and organic oils. ture identical ingredients. Q
With precious extracts
Inspired by the British countryside
with ethical and sustainable sourced
photos: Mintel
ingredients are “Shrub products”. MICHELLE STRUTTON,
global research manager
Included in the range is “Botanical Beauty & Personal Care, Mintel,
Wonder Oil”, which is formulated London, UK, www.mintel.com
18 l COSSMA 06 I 2020ADVERTISEMENT
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try! We offer you filling lines and machin-INGREDIENTS
Palm oil: good or bad? ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 22
Bye bye hypersensitive teeth ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 26
Formulations: sun care�������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 28
Africa Studio/Shutterstock.com
photos:JoeZ/Shutterstock.com
photo:
20 l COSSMA 06 I 2020 www.cossma.comwww.cossma.com l 21
INGREDIENTS
Palm oil: good or bad?
Sustainability | The reputation of palm oil is pretty bad. Although
only a small part of global production actually flows into cosmetics,
manufacturers are trying to do without this raw material. A better
image could be created through more sustainability.
NN Dr Karl Lintner, What is palm oil? palm kernel oil have different fatty
founder and CEO, Palm oil is produced from the oil acid distributions and have different
Kal’Idées Paris, France palm tree (Elaeis guineensis), a spe- applications as a result. Ingredients
www.kalidees.com cies that grows particularly well in for cosmetic uses originate mostly
equatorial climates around the world. from palm kernel oil (PKO) which
NN Dr Zafarizal Aldrin Azizul Hasan, By now, approximately 90% of the contains ≈50% lauric acid and so it
head of consumer product world’s production of palm oil origi- figures prominently in surfactant use.
development unit, advanced nates from South East Asia with Ma- It is important to realise that the cos-
oleochemical technology division, laysia and Indonesia being the largest metic industry uses little crude or re-
Malaysian Palm Oil Board, Kuala growers and exporters. The world fined palm oil as such, but incorpo-
Lumpur, Malaysia production is estimated at 75 million rates many palm oil derivatives into
tons/year. its products, using less than 1% of
Palm oil is a highly versatile vegeta- the total annual production of palm
N
photos & figure: tristan tan/shutterstock.com, author
o palm oil in our creams and ble oil, with a high content of unsatu- oil (about 700.000 tons per year).
lotions, that is the reaction rated fat. It has found many uses in
one hears increasingly from food as a substitute for undesirable The problem with palm oil
formulators of cosmetic products, ei- trans fats, also as a source for auto- Figure 1 shows the array of oleo-
ther because they have come to be- motive fuel (“bio-fuel”), and in chemical derivatives that can be gen-
lieve some of the rumours about oleochemical applications where the erated from palm oil, most of which
palm oil being “unhealthy”, or be- oil is used as a base material from have uses in cosmetic products.
cause of pressure from the marketing which hundreds of different chemi- These ingredients form the essential
department which wants to claim cals are manufactured by synthetic basic chassis of creams, lotions,
“palm oil free”. Experts in the field derivation. shampoos, conditioners, lipsticks,
agree, however, that substituting Oil palm production is split between gels and foams.
palm oil by other oils does not solve palm oil and palm kernel oil, the two So, why do suppliers of these com-
the problem of extensive land use, being produced from the flesh and modities hear the simplistic kneejerk
deforestation and animal habitat. kernel respectively. palm oil and reaction at the first sentence of this
22 l COSSMA 06 I 2020 www.cossma.comarticle? And what needs to be done to counter it, to reverse the unjustified trend of “palm oil free” claims? The exponential growth in the cultivation of oil palm has helped feed the world’s growing demand for food, feed, fuel and fibre. The industry is estimated to support more than seven million workers and their families worldwide; it con- tributes significantly to the economies of the countries in which it is grown. The palm oil industry, with the huge monoculture plantations, has grown particularly in Indone- sia and Malaysia. Historically justifiable or not, detractors were and still are linking palm oil production with deforestation of tropical rainforests, conversion of peat land to make way for oil palm planting, with climate change, loss of biodiversity, loss of habitat for animals thus endangering wildlife, illegal seizure of indigenous lands, employment of forced and child labour and alleged adverse impacts on health. It is not surprising that the media, alerted to these swift and radical develop- ments over the last 20 years, created a public reaction. The cosmetic industry is particularly sensitive to any and all negative associations with its products and was one of the first to receive pressure to stop the use of palm oil. As a re- sult, one of the most challenging issues confronting the palm oil industry is proving its commitment towards sustainable development. Certified Sustainable Palm Oil (CSPO) In response to public outcry against the specific issues men- tioned above, the chemical industry established in 2004 the Round table for Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) where all the major users of this material are represented as voluntary members1. The key word in this initiative is sustainability. RSPO has written rules designed to prevent and progres- sively eliminate uncontrolled deforestation, peat burning and illegal land use by individual smallholders. The RSPO rules encourage users to buy only certified CSPO, thus ex- erting pressure on the producers to employ sustainable prac- tices. Adhesion to RSPO rules is voluntary, and the commer- cial pressure comes from the buyers. The Malaysian government instigated the MSPO framework (Malaysian Sustainable Palm Oil Certificate) which has become oblig- atory for Malaysian producers. Three levels of certification The Mass Balance Procedure is at present the most widely used scheme, sometimes to the chagrin of palm oil produc- ers (small holders) and NGOs. The mechanism implies that a buyer of certified palm oil makes a purchase of a given amount (for example 100 tonnes) of CSPO (third party in- dependently audited oil) which enters the complex circuit of collection and distribution of palm oil and will be mixed with non-CSPO material; the buyer receives oil, which may contain unspecified amounts of CSPO and non-CSPO. All that is guaranteed is that 100 tons have been produced un- der CSPO rules and enter the common stream. A more precise but more complex and costlier mechanism provides for the segregation and combination of CSPO pro- duced oil from various sources; IP (Identity Preserved) CSPO
INGREDIENTS
Mass Balance as a first step will drive
the producers towards true sustaina-
bility. Certified Sustainable Palm Oil
based ingredients provide the mech-
anism for the Personal Care industry
to meet consumer expectations and
develop the path to full traceability2.
Malaysia at the forefront
Aware of the huge importance palm
oil represents in its economy, the Ma-
lysian government has taken meas-
ures to credibly and efficiently ad-
dress all aspects of sustainability of
palm oil. In 2008, Malaysia was the
first to produce and export Sustaina-
ble Palm Oil.
The present effort, spearheaded by
Figure 1: Many different chemicals are manufactured by synthetic derivations of palm oil.
the Malaysian Palm Oil Board MPOB
and the MPOCC (Malaysian Palm Oil
Certification Council) aims to have
100% of Malaysia’s palm oil produc-
is the highest level of certification sunflower oil seven times as much tion (≈ 20 million metric tons) will be
and guarantees that he or she re- land as palm oil. Which means that, certified sustainable by 2020.
ceives the certified oil from the spe- to substitute other types of vegetable The board has defined its own refer-
cific source she specified. oil for palm oil would require far ence for sustainability, which goes
All stakeholders agree that only greater amounts of land. The fact further than the international RSPO
through creating a truly universal that most other oils are dramatically concept. MSPO is based on regula-
sustainable palm oil industry can the different in composition compared to tory rather than voluntary measures,
future of the environment be se- palm oil also does not help to make such as suspending licenses of grow-
cured, along with the livelihoods of them attractive as substitute. ers and mills who do not respect and
the people who depend on palm oil. Even though the cosmetic industry implement the MSPO procedures7.
uses, indirectly via the palm oil de- In 2018, 1.91 million MT of Malaysian
Why Palm oil? rivatives, less than one percent of palm oil were exported to the EU,
If palm oil is as detrimental to the palm oil produced, it is not at all clear all of it CSPO and ISCC (Inter-
environment as alleged by the media, why the cosmetic industry has little national Sustainability and Carbon
why not simply substitute it with choice. The cosmetic industry shuld, Certification – certification for bio-
other plant-based oils? The answer however, make sure that all its prod- fuel) audited.
is simple: the oil palm tree is actually ucts contain only Certified Sustaina- Palm oil is a necessary ingredient and
the most efficient producer of vege- ble Palm Oil (CSPO). offers many advantages over other
table oil per unit area of land, with Often the pressure from the cosmetic vegetable oils — including some en-
yields of 6000 litres per hectare industry is shifted to the chemical vironmental advantages. Moving to
being quite common. This efficiency industries, suppliers of the palm oil 100% RSPO certified production to
has led to a quadrupling in palm derivatives. As the RSPO annual re- be an important step forward for the
oil production since 1990, making it ports and the third-party audited cer- cosmetics industry and also for the
the most produced vegetable oil in tificates show, cosmetic ingredients consumer. Q
the world, supplying 30% of global made from palm oil and supplied to
References:
demand. the formulators of consumer prod-
1. https://www.rspo.org/about/our-organisation
The second most produced vegetable ucts receive the highest guarantee to
2. https://vimeo.com/176144114
oil, soy oil, supplies 29% of global be CSPO based. The cosmetic indus- 3. https://www.croda.com/en-gb/news/2016/01/
demand but is ten times less efficient try and its ingredient suppliers are croda-meets-target-on-sustainable-palm-oil
4. https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/
than palm. Coconut oil has the sec- strongly committed to this policy as Article/2019/05/28/Estee-Lauder-BASF-the-RSPO-new-
partnership
ond-best yield but a much less attrac- their regular communications clearly
5. https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/
tive composition, more than 80% sat- show4-7. Article/2019/12/13/PZ-Cussons-sustainable-palm-oil-
2020-plan-on-track-with-focus-on-satellite-and-supplier-
urated fats. It also needs twice as The best way to encourage producers engagement
much land in tropical climates to pro- to grow palm oil sustainably is by 6. https://www.croda.com/en-gb/sustainability/
our-approach/copy-of-material-areas/product-steward-
duce the same amount of oil as CSPO. creating the demand for it by pur- ship/palm-oil
Rapeseed oil needs five times, and chasing only CSPO. 7. http://mpob.gov.my/highlight/kenyataan-akhbar-mspo
24 l COSSMA 06 I 2020 www.cossma.comCOSSMA HAS THE ANSWER.
STAY UP-TO-DATE.
WWW.COSSMA.COM/BLUE
GLOBAL TRENDS IN PACKAGING,
INGREDIENTS AND DISTRIBUTION.INGREDIENTS
bye bye
hypersensitive
teeth
Research | Many people who suffer are unaware that tooth sensi-
tivity can be managed effectively. Studies show that an ingredient
combined with toothpaste can help alleviate the painful symptoms.
NN Tanja Budde, a slightly greater extent than men. People who suffer from DH often
head of innovation and technical The vast prevalence of the condition start to avoid consuming potential
marketing, Omya International, appears to have several different con- trigger products because they are
Oftringen, Switzerland, tributory factors.One of these may be afraid of the pain. However, these are
www.omya.com that people do not always seek pro- only the triggers, and the underlying
Photo: Alliance Images/shutterstock.com, figures: Omya
fessional help when suffering from problem persists.
DH, but rather try to live with it by Dentin hypersensitivity arises when tu-
D
Dentin hypersensitivity (DH) adapting their lifestyles to minimize bules within tooth dentin become ex-
is a common oral health issue its impact. posed. This can occur for various rea-
that has a negative effect on sons. Aggressive tooth brushing is a
quality of life for millions of people Pain and cause common cause, but teeth can also
globally. According to a systematic DH is characterized by sharp, short become sensitive after dental work
review1 published in 2013, the pro- pain that can be triggered by tactile, such as scaling, root canal or tooth
portion of adults who suffer from DH chemical, thermal or air blowing whitening procedures. Exposed den-
is between 25 and 30 percent, de- stimuli. For example, consumption of tin and therefore DH can also be
pending on the population group. certain foods and beverages is known caused by periodontal disease.
Overall, prevalence ranges from 3 to to trigger the pain. Acidic and/or cold Once they are exposed, it is easier for
57 percent, with the peak age being beverages, ice cream, citrus fruits dentin tubules to come into contact
between 30 and 40 years. Interest- and hot drinks like tea and coffee are with stimuli such as hot, cold, sweet
ingly, women seem to be affected to among the most common causes. or acidic foods and beverages, which
26 l COSSMA 06 I 2020 www.cossma.comINGREDIENTS
can induce the movement of fluid 200-OG are clearly visible. The parti- can have a marked impact on their
within the tubules. This movement cles on their own can be seen to oc- overall quality of life, improving
then triggers nerves within the pulp, clude the tubules (Figure 1), and symptoms and alleviating pain. Con-
which ultimately causes the short, there is even greater occlusion in the trary to the belief of many patients,
sharp pain.2,3 toothpaste formulated with the par- DH is not a condition that has to be
ticles (Figure 2). lived with as a side-effect of modern
Treatment There is a marked difference between lifestyles. Q
A simple and affordable approach is these specimens and the controls,
to occlude the dentin tubules and including the toothpaste that is al-
thus block stimuli from provoking ready on sale.
the movement of dentinal fluid.
References:
An active ingredient has been Application possibilities
1. Spieth C.H., Tachou A. Epidemiology of dentin
specifically developed to meet the Omyadent 200-OG can be formulated hypersensitivity, Clinical Oral Investigations, 2013 Mar;
17 (Suppl 1): 3–8, published online 2012 Dec 7.
requirements of teeth with ex- into toothpastes based on various
2. Addy M. Dentine hypersensitivity: new perspectives on
posed dentin characterized by dentin cleaning particles. For instance, an old problem. Int Dent J. 2002;52(5)(suppl 1):
367–375.
sensitivity. toothpastes based on natural calcium
Thanks to its small, tailored particles, carbonate, such as Omya’s Omyacare 3. Guignon AN. Dentinal hypersensitivity.
http://www.rdhmag.com/articles/print/volume-34/is-
Omyadent 200-OG penetrates the tu- cleaning particles, have been formu- sue-7/features/dentinal-hypersensitivity.html.
Published 2014.
bules in the dentin and occludes lated and tested successfully. Sili- 4. Budde T., Sternitzke V. Functionalized Calcium w
them effectively.4,5,6,7 ca-based toothpastes have also been Carbonate (FCC) particles to occlude dentin tubules,
ORCA, Oslo, 2017.
The natural ingredient has a core of trialed and shown to have high tu- 5. Budde T, Sternitzke V. Assessment of hydraulic
calcium carbonate and a shell of hy- bule occlusion efficiency when com- conductance of functionalized calcium carbonate
occluded dentin tubules, IADR, Vienna, 2017.
droxyapatite – a calcium phosphate bined with Omyadent 200-OG.
6. Saara Välimaa,Tanja Budde, Pekka Vallittu. Grit Blasted
that is a major component of teeth. Commercial marketing of such prod- Hydroxyapatite Calcium Carbonate Particles Occlude
Dentine Tubules and Give Rise to Biomineralization;
This hydroxyapatite shell gives ex- ucts can give hope to the millions of International Association for Dental Research (IADR),
General Session & Exhibition, San Francisco, 2017.
ceptional affinity with the surface of people around the world who toler-
7. S. Valimaa, L. Perea-Lowery, J.-H. Smatt, J. Peltonen, T.
the teeth and therefore good perfor- ate pain caused by DH. Simple tooth Budde, P. K. Vallittu. Grit blasted aggregates of hydroxyl
apatite functionalized calcium carbonate in occluding
mance characteristics. In addition, brushing with the correct toothpaste dentinal tubules. Heliyon 4, 2018.
the hydroxyapatite shell delivers im-
proved acid resistance compared to
calcium carbonate and enables
Omyadent 200-OG to survive acid
attacks more effectively.
Scientifically proven
performance
The performance of Omyadent 200-
OG as a tubule occlusion particle and
desensitizing agent for oral care has
been proven in comprehensive scien-
tific studies.
In one such study, dentin specimens
were treated with either Omyadent Figure 1. Scanning electron micro- Figure 2. SEM image of Toothpaste with
200-OG-particles, a toothpaste for- scope image (SEM) of 5% 5% Omyadent 220-OG particles.
mulated with Omyadent 200-OG, a Omyadent 220-OG particles.
negative control or a positive control.
The positive control was a toothpaste
already on the market with a desen-
sitization/tubule occlusion claim,
while the negative control was
hydroxyethyl cellulose, which was
expected to have no occlusion
properties.
Figures 1-4 show scanning electron
microscope (SEM) images of the
treated dentin specimens as de-
scribed above. The excellent tubule Figure 3. SEM image of a positive Figure 4. SEM image of a negative
occlusion properties of Omyadent control with a market tooth-paste. control with hydroxyethyl-cellulose.
www.cossma.com l 27INGREDIENTS
MORE INFORMATION
ONLINE
You can access the details of each
formulation at www.cossma.com
webcode 100390
Sun Care
Formulations | Protecting the skin from UV rays is particularly important
in summer when people spend a lot of time outdoors and enjoy the sun.
We present a selection of formulations and ingredient suppliers that offer
products for face, body and hair.
High Performance Sun Matrix Sunshine Spray Sunshine & Pixie Dust SPF 30 - Silver
Lotion SPF 50 MMP Seppic
BASF
Cold-Processed Daily UV Care Conditioner with UV-protector
Nordmann
Summer Glow for coloured hair
photo: MarKord/shutterstock.com
Biesterfeld Sepzialchemie After Sun Recovery Cream Zschimmer & Schwarz
Roelmi
After Sun Face & Body Gel
CLR Greenita Soothing after-sun jelly In the August issue we will focus on formulations for hair
Safic Alcan care. In September, formulations for body care will take
centre stage. All of the information published here has
been carefully assembled. Neither the publishers nor the
After Sun Solarium Lotion After sun care with Venuceane developers of these formulations can accept responsibility
GfN Sederma for their safety or accuracy.
28 l COSSMA 06 I 2020 www.cossma.comINGREDIENTS
News
MULTI
FUNCTIONAL Active
STEPHENSON | The ingredients
technical team has
developed a new liquid
for colours
soap base, “Liquid Soap
CRODA | This powder
2020”, to meet demand
version of “Majestem”
with a short delivery.
is an eco-designed, pure
It has been specifically formulated to be an
lyophilised plant cell cul-
all-purpose liquid soap, suitable for both per-
ture extract, without ex-
sonal care, such as hand and body washing
cipients, easily disper-
and multi-purpose cleansing for hard surfaces
sible in powder make-up
and floors. The product is derived from natu-
or powder format skin-
ral vegetable oils and comes ready to use by
care, so says the ma- JEWEL OF HIGH COSMETIC
personal care and cosmetics brands.
nufacturer. Incorporated SOLABIA | The “SolaPearls” range is said
www.stephensonpersonalcare.com
to offer a holistic beauty experience that
combines efficacy, elegance, emotion,
sensoriality and naturalness. These pearls
should be obtained from a highprecision
Organic moisturizer macro-inclusion technology. They are
composed of calcium alginate forming their
FORESTWISE | Illipe Butter is made from the nuts of the 3D architecture. The Pearls concentrate
endangered shorea stenoptera tree, which only grows in into a loose powder, it efficiency and sensoriality and transport
the forests of Borneo. It is traditionally used by locals to should be effective right formulas into a new emotional dimension,
moisturize their skin and to heal sores and sunburns. The from the first applica- now availabe without phenoxyethanol, so
photos: Solabia, Stephenson, Croda, Forestwise
moisturizing efficacy and high melting point of Illipe butter tion. In vivo it has been the manufacturer.
make it an well suited ingre- demonstrated to pro- www.solabia.com
dient for solid formulations — vide immediate protec-
such as lipsticks, face masks, tion against oxidation.
www.crodapersonalcare.com
and even shampoo, soap, and
lotion bars — especially for
brands looking to tap into the
sustainable packaging trend,
so the manufacturer.
www.forestwise.earth
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Experience since 1976
Visit us at
We produce success Cosmetic Business
hall 4, booth D18
Your competent manufacturer for cosmetics & medical devices
Full-Service · Development · Documentation · Production · Fill-up www.bb-kalkar.de
Tubes · Bottles · Tins · Jars · Sachets · Single-Pack Wet Wipes
Most comprehensive advice – Fastest reaction – Widest assortmentSPOTLIGHT COSMETIC CONTAINERS
PCR is the key INTERVIEW
Packaging | Sustainability, hygiene, new materials – the requirements on cosmetic
containers are different but always quite high. Dominic Bakic knows what is
important today and what is expected of packaging in future.
30 l COSSMA 06 I 2020SPOTLIGHT COSMETIC CONTAINERS
NN Dominic Bakic, Glass, plastics, aluminium – which because of its positive attributes like
CEO, Bakic Group, materials are most popular in high compatibility, good recyclabil-
Munich, Germany, the cosmetics containers market ity, and its availability in PCR
www.bakic.com and why? (post-consumer-recycling material).
Especially for sanitizer products the
This strongly depends on the brand market has exploded recently and
type, the distribution, and the cate- PET protects ethanol very well and
gory. However, right now we see a communicates through its visual
strong demand for PET packaging cues such as the high-gloss surface
www.cossma.com l 31SPOTLIGHT COSMETIC CONTAINERS
Especially with sanitizers PET packaging made of PCR is popular.
Due to the current situation long durable
pumps experience high demand.
photos: Vladimir Sukhachev, Belozersky/shutterstock.com, Bakic
and the transparency product attrib- ity. Now, 73% of our standard molds PCR materials exceeds the supply,
utes such as efficiency, cleanliness, can be used to manufacture packag- which therefore requires increasing
and hygiene. ings of PCR-materials. investment into recycling technolo-
We see all materials and packaging Looking at jars, especially in the gies and capacities to boost the sup-
that offer a sustainable advantage masstige and mass segment, we see ply of high-quality PCR for HDPE,
gaining in popularity. Being recycla- a strong shift from plastic to glass. PET and PP.
ble or being made of post-consum- Here, we will be introducing post-con- Unfortunately, most recycling mate-
er-recycling material are both strong sumer-recycled glass jars in our port- rials still lack the European Food Ap-
sustainable advantages. The strong folio within the next few months. proval certificate and do not offer the
demand for PCR plastics currently same technical attributes as virgin
leads to limited availability and fluc- Where is the journey going with materials. Since this is still a big chal-
tuating grades, so converters and the development or improvement lenge, all involved stakeholders need
brands struggle with instable supply, of materials? to work on solutions: European leg-
changing prices and deviations in islation, recycling companies, con-
quality and colours. There is a strong need and trend in verters, and brands. Since 2018, the
For many years, the company has put the availability of recycling materials! Forum Rezyklat is focusing all its ef-
already a strong focus on sustainabil- Today, the demand for high quality forts to resolve this issue, substituting
32 l COSSMA 06 I 2020 www.cossma.comSPOTLIGHT COSMETIC CONTAINERS
the amount of virgin material by PCR from a big pack which they keep be- • Dark colours: most of the carbon
plastics and therefore increasing the hind the counter. black or other dark colours cannot
overall recycling rate for a more sus- Our 520 S pump with a long nozzle be detected by the infrared sensors
tainable future. offers great priming functionality, in the recycling process and there-
dispensing product in 3 ml doses. fore cannot be separated.
What are the latest dispensing Because it is very durable, the pump • Common materials: only for com-
techniques? can be reused many times, even with monly used materials like PE,
alcoholic products. A 90-degree noz- PET, PP, etc. does a recycling
Looking from the perspective of hy- zle adapter enables super precise stream exist. All niche materials
giene products and sustainability, we dosing. should be avoided.
see good value in all dispensing sys- • Decorations: heavy decorations
tems that offer product protection, a What are the major challenges in like metallization or full body
hygienic handling and dosing func- the recyclability of cosmetic con- sleeves limit the recyclability be-
tionality for alcoholic products, as tainers? cause they can bias the detection
well as durability. Since sanitizers mechanism which leads to the last
are used multiple times throughout Recyclability is a very hot topic and exit, the energetic recovery.
the day, the lifecycle of one bottle is since this subject is so complex, there There are certainly many more as-
rather short. All pumps which are is still a lot of confusion and uncer- pects to consider, and we have devel-
durable and which can be reused tainty. Obviously, recyclability de- oped our own methodology through-
multiple cycles offer great value to pends strongly on the type of con- out the last few years, where we help
the consumer and the environment. tainer used but, generally speaking, our customers to screen and analyse
There are many consumers who buy to ensure that packagings remain re- their portfolios and work with them
one to two litre-sized sanitizing prod- cyclable, brand owners need to pay intensively before starting new de-
ucts and refill their small “on-the-go” attention to the following aspects: sign and development projects. This
packages at home! This happens • Mono-materials: compounds can- allows our team of designers, engi-
more and more in drugstores, where not be recycled so the packaging neers and molding expert build a ho-
they fill the required “on-the-go” size should be of a single material. listic and sustainable taskforce. Q
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Marketing China after corona ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 36 Importing cosmetics from outside the EU ����������������������������������������������������������� p 40 Fighting the crisis ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 44 Panorama of humanity ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p 46
MARKETING
INTERVIEW
China after corona
Chinese Market | While
most countries are still
fighting the pandemic,
China’s economy is slowly
coming to life after the
lockdown. Mei Gräfe knows
how the local cosmetics
industry is doing and what
long-term changes the crisis
will entail.
36 l COSSMA 06 I 2020MARKETING
NN Mei Gräfe,
managing director, Intergate
Consulting, Munich, Germany,
www.intergate-consulting.de
COSSMA: In China, everyday life
is getting back to normal. But the
effects of the corona crisis can still
be seen and felt. How is the Chi-
nese cosmetics market doing now?
What traces can still be seen?
Mei Gräfe: Now, China is slowly but
surely recovering from the corona
epidemic, but the Chinese economy
was hit hard by the crisis. After dec-
ades of economic growth, China had
negative growth for the first time
with a loss in GDP 6.8% in the first
quarter of 2020.
Hotels, catering and retail have suf-
fered most of the losses. The cosmet-
ics industry was also badly affected
due to the almost three-month lock-
down.
Companies and brands that have re-
lied heavily on traditional sales chan-
nels are faced with major losses.
There are prominent brands and
companies among the casualities. For
example, the cosmetics specialist
chain Space NK from Great Britain
completely left the Chinese market
after just two years. Eight stores
were closed and online operations,
including the Tmall flagship store
that had been in existence for only a
few months, were completely
stopped.
The corona crisis played a crucial
role in this, but industry experts in
China also address the late entry into
online business and the lack of online
brand communication as important
mistakes.
Another prominent example is the
Sasa cosmetics chain from Hong
Kong, which had to close 21 branches
in Hong Kong and Macau due to the
corona shutdown and the subse-
quent lack of tourists.
Political instability in Hong Kong
since summer 2019 has also contrib-
uted to the store closings.
www.cossma.com l 37You can also read
