MODERN MOBILITY TEXTILES THAT ARE GOING PLACES
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TRENDS IN APPAREL + FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION
MODERN
MOBILITY
TEXTILES
THAT ARE
GOING PLACES
textileinsight.com • @textileinsight
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PO Box 23-1318, Great Neck , NY 11023
Phone: 516-305-4709 Fax: 516-305-4712 In the Market....................................................... 6 Footwear................................................................. 34
www.formula4media.com A roundup of what’s hot for F/W 20; test method for Industry expert Simon Bartold discusses the materials and
microfiber shedding debuts; new wools to watch; and more. science behind Nike’s much talked about VaporFly shoes.
Textile Insight® is a registered trademark
of Formula4 Media, LLC. ©2020 All Technology........................................................ 15 Trendsetter........................................................ 36
rights reserved. The opinions expressed
Despite challenges, the cotton market aims to move forward Vionic Pro Footwear gets the job done with style and
by authors and contributors to Textile
Insight are not necessarily those of the
in 2020. Writer Debra Cobb offers an industry outlook. substance for professionals on their feet all day.
editors or publishers. Textile Insight is not
responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, Made in America............................................... 18 Survey................................................................ 40
photographs or artwork. Articles Textile suppliers and domestic makers are revitalizing regions This installment of Trend Insight Consumer delivers research
appearing in Textile Insight may not be with investment, employment and strategic direction. on purchasing decisions by active outdoorists with feedback
reproduced in whole or in part without
conducted on MESHI’s Insight Platform.
the express permission of the publisher. Strategies.......................................................... 20
Textile Insight is published bi-monthly:
Small firms with big ideas are finding traction in the apparel Education................................................................ 44
Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr; May/Jun; Jul/Aug;
Sep/Oct; and Nov/Dec.
space with innovation backed by unique story telling. Researchers at University of British Columbia create a chemical
process to convert cotton waste into high-value nanofibers.
Postmaster: Send address changes to Cover Story....................................................... 26
Textile Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318 Performance textiles are increasingly modern travel Out of Context........................................................ 46
Great Neck, NY 11023 companions. We spotlight the latest developments. Staying warm is about a lot more than test results, writes
textileinsight.com Kurt Gray, outlining how real world performance factors in.
TEXTILE TALK | EMILY WALZER
Will Performance Define
Outdoor in the New Decade?
I
24/7 on-the-go culture.
These trends take shape on the following pages. Stories
explore how textile suppliers re-frame innovation in new
and different ways, and how small companies are having
a big impact using textiles to tell stories that align with
customer values. We spotlight multi-tasking textiles
that raise the bar on apparel and footwear tuned for
travel, workwear and service industry professionals —
categories to watch in 2020 — and provide updates on
cotton, wool, microfibers and insulation essentials.
was caught off guard at a trade show recently when But here’s the thing: where does this leave
an exhibitor stopped me in the aisle and asked what performance? Has our planet-saving state of mind pushed
I thought were the most influential trends of the past performance aside? Does the desire for comfort and
decade. I felt like I was on a game show and had to buzz convenience take an important edge off of hard-core
in my answer quickly so as not to be eliminated from functionality? Is low-impact the new high-tech?
the conversation. Off the top of my head I responded: Textile driven performance put outdoor on the map,
“sustainability,” “speed to market,” and “active and yet “performance” wasn’t on the tip of my tongue
lifestyle.” The exec nodded in a manner indicating for when asked about game-changing industry trends. I like
me to elaborate. I ventured on, rattling off a number of how my North Face parka keeps me snug while waiting on
climate-positive examples of material innovation and the platform for the 7:08 train from New Haven into Grand
supply chain practices introduced during the past few Central on a stormy winter morning. And my hiking
years. I made a case for speed to market pointing out buddies swear by their SmartWool baselayers. This been-
the fact that new product is now presented constantly there, done-that functionality is all well and good. But at
Has our and seamlessly year-round, with no regard to season, the upcoming trade shows, it will be my turn to ask that
planet- or traditional time lines. I explained that in fact I had exec: How will performance influence the next decade? In
saving attended a seminar about consumers’ “want it all, and
want it now” expectations. Fairly out of breath at this
the meantime, feel free to buzz in with your responses. I
welcome your thoughts!
state point, but determined to fulfill what I now deemed an
of mind impromptu work assignment, I mentioned to the exec Happy 2020,
pushed how an increasingly urban-centric outdoor audience over
Emily
the past decade played a big role in ushering in a new
performance breed of comfortable, versatile fabrications that fit the
aside? everyday needs as well as the fitness requirements of our
SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES
MEAN THE WORLD TO US.
Textile-Based Product Solutions
For nearly 40 years, we’ve scoured the globe, seeking only the best partners to
help us design and develop the most sustainable fabrics and eco-friendly textile
innovations. Why? So the world’s favorite brands can build better gear while also
preserving the one planet we all share.
VISIT US!
conceptiii.com
proud partner of
Booth 54069-UL
4 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020
textileinsight.com
IN THE MARKET | OR+SS PREVIEW
Eco Performance in Lightweight Weather Protection Directional in Fall/Winter 2020.
Warming Trends
I
breathable. Previously a single fabric development for four years the aero-
technology, the new Pro is differenti- brane membrane’s unique structure
ated into three products: one optimized consists of an ultra-fine, hydrophilic
for 20 percent stretch, another for polyurethane fiber composite that dif-
breathability, and a third for durability, fers from other film-based membranes
allowing apparel makers to tailor the and offers a softer feel and beautiful,
tech for specific activities. The new fluid textile characteristics. aerobrane
Gore-Tex Pro features recycled content features in Outlier’s Experiment 200
nnovation is in high gear for materials and solution-dyed backers “Ecstasy in the Rain” jacket launched
the season ahead as textile sup- to minimize environmental impact. in December.
pliers continue to explore new Toray unveils new technologies Unifi previews sustainable and tech-
and improved ways to deliver that provide significant upgrades nical developments, an evolution
lightweight, yet highly functional regarding fiber production from in activewear knits, and program
fabrications for cold weather wear. PET plastic bottles. One technology initiatives. New is availability
Advancing product development produces a pure white fiber, provid- of Repreve cationic qualities in
and supply chain practices that ing greater end use applications, response to demand for perfor-
focus on sustainability is also a key while the other new tech offers a mance heathers but with recycled
element of introductions slated for proprietary traceability system that polyester. The company also spot-
Fall/Winter 2020. can identify specific contaminants lights the Repreve Our Oceans,
Important too are upgrades in in the raw materials. Toray has a global initiative that works to
membrane technology. This cat- created a new brand called “&+” prevent bottles from entering the
egory has gotten buzzy in recent to market the development. waterways via programs in coastal
seasons with an uptick in e-spinning areas of development regions. 33
Concept III Textiles showcases sus-
capabilities and creativity around percent of the flake that goes into
tainability throughout its collections,
air permeability in waterproof/ the yarn of a 100 percent Repreve
including a new collaboration with
breathable fabrics. will come from coastline identified
Lenzing. Solution dyed products
Eco remains a central talking post consumer bottles.
that check all the boxes in terms
A variety of looks from the Concept III point. Recycled, biodegradable,
x Lenzing Tree Climate collection. of eco and performance for color HeiQ adds bio-based thermo-func-
regenerative, compostable, upcy-
will preview along with lightweight, tional polymer products to its HeiQ
cled, bio-based, plant-based,
high pile Sherpa fabrication ideal Smart Temp family for a full range of
climate-positive, net-zero impact,
for outer midlayer warmth. Hard- intelligent thermoregulation triggered
or mono-material construction are
working durable fabrics developed by body heat. The newly introduced
all aspects of today’s material world,
for modern workwear are top of mind products add dual-action cooling at
and part of the conversation not
for brand partners such as Carhartt contact to the already successful
only in textile circles, but through-
and several others. dynamic evaporative cooling technol-
out the Denver Convention Center.
Other categories to keep an eye Cordura highlights award winning ogy. The HeiQ Fresh product category
Latest on at OR+SS are performance knits; knits, new brand activations and a of odor control technologies will also
developments recycled materials with improved re-position for the consumer market. feature.
tie nicely aesthetics; and durable materials
that promote “longevity,” a trending
On display, the ISPO Textrend Pertex takes a strong sustainability
into today’s word for 2020.
award winning Cordura 4Ever col-
lection of softened strength knits
stance with the launch of the super-
market trends These latest developments tie and Performance Natural wovens
light 10-denier Pertex Quantum
of individuals nicely into today’s market trends that include 2 and 4-way stretch
made from 100 percent recycled
nylon, and YFuse fabrics made from
looking of individuals looking for quality Cordura denims, and performance 100 percent recycled polyester and
for quality products with sustainability stories Cordura Combat Wool with filament 100 percent recycled nylon. The
products with and branded materials that they integration. company’s ambitious eco targets
sustainability can trust.
Schoeller spotlights its new aerobrane for 2022 include that 80 percent
stories and Here’s what’s on tap for the season e-spinning membrane technology, the of fabrics produced to contain a
branded ahead: PROEARTH collection of biode- minimum of 50 percent recycled
materials that W.L. Gore releases a new version gradable textiles, and wool updates, content and 100 percent of fabrics
they can trust. of Gore-Tex Pro, the first update in
seven years for its flagship waterproof/
including recycled wool and wool
blends with performance tech. In
produced to use non-fluorinated
DWR finishes. l
6 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020
textileinsight.com
Visit us at Outdoor Retailer Snow Show, Booth 54005-UL
SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES AND
TECHNOLOGIES FROM SCHOELLER
CREATING THE FUTURE SINCE 1868
Founded in 1868 with headquarters in Switzerland, Schoeller Textil AG is a global leader in high-performance textile
manufacturing, specializing in the sustainable development and production of innovative textiles and textile
technologies. As a system supplier of solution-oriented products, Schoeller addresses specific customer requirements
and supplies its customers and partners with tangible added value.
www.schoeller-textiles.com
IN THE MARKET | OR+ SS PREVIEW
Brands Serve up Functional Fabrications that Deliver Comfort in the Cold.
Fresh Takes on Technical
T
he latest looks for Fall ’20 reflect how performance is creativity and street attitude, in functionally proficient product. In
interpreted for the new decade. Gone is the conventional other words, clothing and footwear made with materials that can
hard-core, rugged approach to functionality defined withstand whatever Mother Nature has up her sleeve in terms of
often by over engineered pinnacle product, restrictive cold, windy and wet conditions, but conceived and constructed
in everyday comfort and style. What’s happening now is envi- for today’s active, eco-aware outdoor audience. A selection of new
ronmentally mindful development and design driven by comfort, styles are shown here: l
Patagonia’s R1 Air collection is made with a lightweight technical 5.7-ounce, 100 percent Synchroknit by Wigwam technology debuts in Trail Junkie and
recycled polyester jacquard fleece that has hollow-core yarns in a unique zig-zag pattern Snow Junkie Merino wool styles. Synchroknit technology creates
to regulate body heat, and HeiQ Fresh durable odor control. The fabric is bluesign approved a precision fit that is enhanced by the luxe feel and durable
and Fair Trade certified sewn. functionality of Merino.
Yulex plant-based
rubber alternative
is used in this
men’s Bozeman
Tall boot style
from BOGS.
The Women’s
Solice boot by
ECCO features
PrimaLoft BIO,
a 100 percent
recycled,
biodegradable
synthetic fiber
insulation.
The North Face’s Summit L5 FUTURELIGHT Ventrix Jacket The Flylow Kane Jacket’s Intuitive Perm fabric is ultra-
is super-breathable with stretch synthetic insulation. breathable yet achieves a 20k waterproof rating in a
Intentionally not a fully taped, the shell provides storm super-light, no gimmicks backcountry jacket.
protection without overbuilding the garment.
8 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020
textileinsight.com
IN THE MARKET | ECO UPDATE
Advances in Sustainable Material Development & Ethical Textile Production.
Turkey Raises the Bar in Eco Responsibility Alternative Leather
Comes to Market
T
he organic farming implementing responsible pro-
industry has boomed duction processes in the long
in Turkey: Between term by assessing six different
2002 and 2016, the volume of areas of production condi-
organic goods production has tions. These are Chemicals
increased almost seven-fold, management, Environmental
and the number of organic performance, Environmental
products available increased management, Social respon-
by 50 percent. sibility, Quality management
Soft and breathable, Turkish and Health protection and
organic wool and cotton are safety at work: Together they
increasingly used in a variety provide an overall analysis that
of end use applications from documents ISKO’s responsible
children’s wear and home tex- commitment in a clear and
tiles, to intimate apparel and complete way.
mattresses. Driven by the coun- STeP integrates the inde-
try’s strict organic agriculture pendent verification system
laws, established in 1994 and “Responsible Innovation” Detox To Zero by OEKO-TEX,
strengthened in 2004 as part through the development allowing businesses to deter-
Photo source: felderfelder.com
of EU harmonization policies, and implementation of best mine the status of chemicals
Turkey has emerged as a leader practices, ISKO fulfilled the management and wastewater
in the production of top-quality certification’s strict require- quality in compliance with the
sustainable fabrics. ments, relying on six different goals of the Greenpeace Detox
Specifically, the number modules to assess important Campaign.
of different organic products areas of production. This fol- “Responsibility and innova-
N
offered by Turkish producers lows ISKO being awarded both tions go hand in hand, at ISKO,” FW focuses on developing technologies
increased from 150 types in the rigorous EU Ecolabel and explained senior sustainabil- based on the sustainable use of plants
2002 to 225 types in 2016. The Nordic Swan Ecolabel previ- ity and CSR executive Ebru and natural fibers. The Peoria, IL-based
nation’s 698 percent increase ously. These achievements are Ozkucuk Guler. “To be awarded firm’s latest innovation is an alternative leather
in overall output of organic in line with the denim manu- with such a prestigious cer- called Mirum. A high-performance plant-based
materials is noteworthy, with facturer’s goal of 100 percent tification is proof that one material, Mirum uses 100 percent natural inputs
production volume increasing sustainable and ethical denim has to look at the big picture: and is completely free of petroleum-based
from 310 thousand tons in 2002 production based on three sustainable actions need to plastics. Mirum will decompose a garden and
to 2.5 million tons in 2016. main pillars: creativity, com- involve and take into account can be recycled into new goods. The material
petence and citizenship. the entire value chain, in the debuted at last year’s London Fashion Week
Certified Responsible According to the com- long run, considering not only in the collection of FELDER FELDER.
ISKO is the first Turkish pany this new certification production steps but also the The company has recently brought on Oihana
mill to be awarded Oeko-Tex highlights where even better development of a healthy and Elizalde as general manager of the Mirum busi-
STeP certification. Fostering choices can be made, aiming at safe work environment.” l ness unit of NFW. Previously, Elizalde served
as director of technology at BASF, the world’s
largest chemical company strongly focused
Hyosung Expands on sustainability. Elizalde’s career started in
materials science research and development,
Recycled Offering helping companies in multiple industries
F
transform their products at a molecular level
or 2020, Hyosung will introduce its regen collection to be safer and more sustainable.
of 100 percent recycled multi-function, performance Her hire comes on the heels of NFW’s hire
fibers (spandex nylon and polyester). The Korean of Greg Stillman, previously of Fashion for
textile supplier highlights three new qualities. Specifically: Good, as director of business development.
creora regen spandex, made of 100 percent reclaimed waste In addition to Mirum, NFW, founded in 2015,
(pre-consumer); Robic regen, the first recycled, high-tenacity has developed a natural materials platform.
nylon made from 100 percent reclaimed waste for tough The company’s Welded Fiber Technology
gear like backpacks, bags and workwear: and multi-function consists of closed loop processes and clean
recycled cooling nylon and polyester fibers. l chemistries that produce durable items that
have a positive impact on the environment. l
10 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020
textileinsight.comInvesting in Sustainability New Test Method Aids Effort to Tackle Microfiber Shedding Issue.
E
mphasizing a responsibility to focus on the test, which has been shared with TMC members.
climate crisis and plastic waste in the ocean, Researchers are already onto the next phase of
Vaude director Antje von Dewitz, said in a work that entails building a database of informa-
recent keynote address, “We need everybody on tion regarding the impact of different fibers, yarns,
this path. The new reality is that brands need to fabric constructions and process steps with regard
serve a purpose.” Vaude is considered a pioneer to fiber shedding at the material level.
of functional, sustainable clothing and has been Sophie Mather, chair of The Microfibre
climate neutral since 2012. Von Dewitz advocates Consortium, commented, “This is the crucial
the use of caster bean oil as an eco alternative and bridge from deep academic work to the reality
has set a corporate goal that all Vaude products of commercial product development that the
be recycled or bio-based by 2024. industry is crying out for and building.”
Vaude, along with other brands and several Dr. Jan Beringer of new TMC member Hohenstein
textile suppliers intent on tackling the issue of added, “We’re excited and honored to join The
plastic waste have joined forces with The Microfibre Microfibre Consortium and support this ground-
Consortium (TMC). The organization, founded in breaking work with the University of Leeds. Sharing
November 2018, facilitates development of practical the expertise gained while developing our Dynamic
industry solutions to minimize microfiber release Image Analysis method over the last three years
Photo: Alice Davies
linked with academic research and supply chain will enable all TMC members to get a deeper
production. The latest news from the UK-based understanding of the key factors and processes
association is the launch of the first global microfi- related to fiber shedding. In turn, this will lead to
ber shedding test method for the textile industry. knowledge-based engineering of low shedding tex- The Microfibre Consortium test method was
Scientists at the University of Leeds developed the tiles for a beneficial impact on the environment.” l developed by scientists at the University of Leeds.
textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 11IN THE MARKET | EURO REPORT
How Digitalization Disruption Positively Impacts the Textile Pathway. By Louisa Smith
C2B is the new B2B
T
push downstream in the supply chain is bringing change
and impacting sales.
Overall, the developments of digitalization have cre-
ated a disruptive element to traditional textile ways,
which, for all intents and purposes is turning out to be
a positive one. The conventional, longer B2C platform is
no longer applicable; we now have C2B as well as C2C, as
consumers share their opinions, spark a rental industry
and swap clothing through personal social media.
Consumer app-laden life is also reflected in today’s
he textile supply chain has traditionally been textile industry as a strengthened social and sustainability
a linear process, from the fiber and textile stage, through mindset gives way to armchair activism — a powerful
to designer and retailers, and then delivered to the influence the marketplace cannot afford to ignore. You
consumer. However, as the consumer continues to only have to take Greta Thunberg as an example, rallying
garner market control, particularly through social media, the younger global population in particular, to demand
highlighting what they want, a helter-skelter approach a change for the future.
is taking place. Increasingly, branded fiber ingredient As digitalization heightens consumer control and builds
suppliers are communicating directly with consumers, eco-awareness globally, the fashion industry is reacting
as well as collaborating directly with brands. Brands to requests made, with efforts in recycling, reduced emis-
then introduce textile mills to the performance and sions and water usage, better living wages, faster speed
functionality that consumers want. This new consumer to market, and full traceability. What’s interesting to note
is that consumers insist on these improvements, yet they
don’t necessarily want to know the details. They just
want to know that fair play is part of the textile chain in
an industry that has to adapt to a modern marketplace.
Transparency is key, with many brand websites provid-
ing hyperlinks taking consumers through to the different
stages of the production of the garment, to QR codes
replacing the traditional care labels and highlighting
garment origin, and how to dispose of clothing correctly
at the end of its lifecycle.
Today’s Waste Not, Want Not Ethos
According to Fashion Industry Waste Statistics from
EDGE, nearly 20 percent of global waste is produced
by the fashion industry, and about 15 percent of fabric
intended for clothing ends up on the cutting floor. While
the quantity of garments sent to landfill varies, the orga-
nization gives a rough estimate of 10 million tonnes/year
in the USA alone.
Businesses are working to change that reality. The Italian
firm Assyst, for example, now features digitalization of
design and sampling with technology that delivers 3D
garments on a screen. The images are so realistic from
silhouette to fabric that you actually believe these are
real samples, filmed for effect. The benefit in this area
is the reduction of waste at the sample stage combined
with a more controlled delivery at the production stage,
Disruptive with fewer rejections of garments and an accelerated
elements shake up speed from sampling approval to production.
the supply chain This update fits nicely with the consumer “waste not, want
creating a helter not” attitude toward consumption, and is helping to grow
skelter approach,
the clothing rental market in everything from the winter
which will give way
to better processes sports market to luxury fashion. Something Borrowed, for
in the long run. example, is an online subscription company that registers
12 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020
textileinsight.comconsumers’ sizing and preferences in colors and style on its
website, and for a monthly fee sends a selection of clothing,
information on the developments of a garment from the
initial concept to the final product enhances the entire
Consumer
to be returned by the consumer at the end of the month. value chain. The closer connection and collaboration of armchair
Clothing gets dropped off at a courier point in a company- products leads to a more efficient process but also, more activism is
provided durable bag where customers pick up the next importantly, less waste on the inventory side. growing; a
month’s offering. The end result: eliminating closets stuffed As we embrace more efficient systems, digitalization powerful
with clothing hardly ever worn. has gone one step further with Instagram influencers, as influence the
digital clothes hit the market. The concept, using technol- marketplace
Blockchain Benefits ogy from the gaming industry, that for a fee, a designer
cannot afford
Brands have to become more diligent about inventory,
too. In 2018 Burberry destroyed unsold clothes, acces-
will create a digital outfit for the subscriber, who can then
post on Instagram an image wearing their unique look.
to ignore.
sories, and perfume worth over $36M, in protecting their The ultimate in sustainability and waste-free fashion, but
intellectual property rights and brand value. That same only for effect, as the garment will never be made, instead
year unsold H&M products were being burnt instead of just a digital fashion statement to impress the followers.
coal in Sweden. (Since then, however, H&M is pursuing As the supply chain shifts and becomes an infinite loop,
one of the strongest sustainability programs to redress the consumer is now embedded in the decisions made and
their errors.) influencing the industry to conform to better practices. The
Blockchain technology is essential in avoiding situations disruption experienced now, combined with the digitalized
like this, with all stages of the textile chain guaranteeing tools available, help ensure that the textile industry towards
transparency and traceability. Being able to access the a cleaner pathway in the new decade. l
ADVERTISEMENT
Hyosung Introduces its New regen Sustainability Program
Featuring 100% Recycled, Multi-Function Fibers
A
s sustainably-made products have become high-tenacity nylon without compromising the
more of a consumer expectation than fibers’ high-performance features,” said Mike
just an industry trend, brands are relying Simko, Hyosung Global Marketing Director-
on strong collaborations with their supply chain Textiles. “It was equally important to make these
to make apparel and gear that consumers feel fibers with 100% reclaimed waste as with every
good about purchasing. To help brands produce ton of recycled spandex we produce, we save
enduring, eco-friendly products their customers approximately 2 tons of non-renewable raw
are anticipating, Hyosung has developed its new material being extracted from the earth.”
regen sustainability program of 100% recycled
multi-performance fibers Hyosung’s new regen program also
“With every that will be introduced
ton of recycled extends to its multi-function nylon and
during the 2020 winter polyester fiber collections and features:
spandex we
produce, we save trade show season. • regen askin polyester cooling and UV
approximately Among Hyosung’s latest
protective fiber
2 tons of developments are the
non-renewable company’s new creora ® • regen cotna polyester natural touch fiber
raw material • regen aerocool polyester sweat-absorbing
regen recycled spandex
being extracted
made from 100% reclaimed and quick-drying fiber
from the earth.”
waste, and its new MIPAN®
regen robic, the first recycled high-tenacity nylon “Having such a comprehensive package of
made from 100% reclaimed waste. Both fibers recycled, multi-function fibers is quite unique
have been adopted by leading brands for use in and we are excited to not only offer our partners
various applications such as activewear, workwear, the best possible range of sustainable product
backpacks and bags. offerings, but to also help lift the industry as a
Reuse. Recycle. Regen
“It was very important that we develop our whole by being better stewards of the earth,”
creora® regen spandex and MIPAN® regen robic said Simko.
www.hyosungtnc.com
textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 13IN THE MARKET | WOOL UPDATE
Wool Widens Availability with New Varieties, End-Use Applications.
Merino & Beyond
M
being blended with a wider range of yarns and addi-
Wools to Watch tives to provide performance, comfort, durability and
Alpaca hairs are very fine and sustainability features.
soft, having a diameter of only
15-40 microns, and are naturally
hypoallergenic.
Here are some recent developments:
Yoga Wear: An innovative collaborative project intro-
Cashmere is obtained from the
duces merino yoga wear that is soft, yet abrasion
undercoat of the Cashmere goat,
with the diameter of the fiber resistant as well aesthetically appealing. Specifically
around 18 microns. The finest developed to promote elasticity and enhance longev-
cashmere is collected from the ity, the exceptionally fine merino wool features in a
neck region of the undercoat. erino’s momentum in the sport bra, tank and leggings. “The Conscious Choice”
In most cases, when cashmere
active/outdoor market is giving way to increased inter- capsule collection is the collective effort of WoolMark,
is finished into clothing, the nap
is raised on the wool to further est in other varieties of the natural fiber. In a recent Suedwolle, Eva x Carola design studio and Santoni.
improve softness. Trend Insight survey with feedback conducted on the Representatives from the firms explain that the 15.5
Mohair comes from the Angora MESH01 platform for Textile Insight, consumers were micron wool is engineered to retain stability. Using
goat and has a distinctive frizzy open-minded about trying different kinds of wool. Santoni’s circular seamless knitting technology with
look because the guard hairs When asked, “Besides merino wool, which other types wool, the garments support the body as performance
from the topcoat are often mixed of wool would you be open to adding to your workout wear while being flexible and comfortable. The technol-
from the hairs from the undercoat.
wardrobe,” alpaca and cashmere ranked high on con- ogy also introduces intricate and interesting patterns
Mohair fibers have a slightly larger
diameter, of about 20-40 microns, sumers radar with mohair also generating significant that contour the body. The collab serves as a prime
similar to wool, but they are stron- positive feedback. Only 13 percent of the survey takers example of wool adapting to new markets, say execs.
ger and smoother because they responded “not open to adding.” Outer Midlayer & Insulation: A new yarn made from a
are also longer. Suppliers and growers are happy to oblige. In the blend of organic merino and alpaca comes from Schoeller
Yak wool is produced from the past year, everything from camel wool to baby yak Spinning Group. Using no chemicals or dyestuffs, the
coat of long-haired yaks found has entered the market. Insulations made from a slew undyed yarn takes advantage of wools natural colors.
mainly found in the Himalayan
of wool variations were showcased at the November Available in a knit construction or felted designs, the
region, Tibetan plateau, and some
areas of Mongolia and Central Asia. Performance Days trade fair. Cashmere, no longer eye-catching 70/30 organic merino/alpaca blend is
Like merino, yak wool is naturally exclusively a luxury item, is reaching out to a more recyclable and biodegradable boosting its eco status.
anti-microbial. mainstream audience with ads promoting the wool UK-based HD Wool is designed with the lowest carbon
appearing in New York City subways. footprint in mind, manufactured without use of plastics
Diversification is also the name of the game with or harmful chemicals. It is grown and managed through
Left to right: Super-fine Merino
engineered for yoga wear,
Merino. Finer gauge yarns are opening the door to new a traceable British wool cooperative, and sourced from
Cashmere advertised on NYC applications. Realizing the performance benefits com- non-mulesed and farm assured growers. Imbotex Lab,
subway, and high-tech Salewa bined with a strong eco element, lightweight merino is from Italy, has introduced CameLuxe is an upcycled insu-
TirolWool jacket with Celliant. a natural for studio wear, for example. Merino is also lation described as ultra-fine insulating technology. The
product is created from camel
hair recovered from Italian mills
that is processed into very fine
fibers and then blended with
recycled polyester.
Performance Enhanced: Salewa
TirolWool combines natural
sheep’s wool with Celliant. The
wool, blended with polyester,
gets a functional boost with
Celliant technology. Celliant’s
thermo-reactive particles are
inherent to the yarn and work
to enhance circulation and
enhance recovery. The natural/
synthetic hybrid, plus ingre-
dient tech, results in warmth
with added thermo-regulating
performance. l
14 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020
textileinsight.comTECHNOLOGY | COTTON INDUSTRY
Facing Formidable Challenges, Cotton Business Aims to Move Forward. By Debra Cobb
Industry Outlook
F
sidered “greener,” such as recycled
polyester, organic cotton, lyocell
and hemp.
30%
However, U.S. growers have reduced
their environmental impact over the
past 35 years through technologies
and innovations in conservation and
land management systems, according
to Adams. The U.S. cotton industry
recently released its 10-year environ-
rom rising tariffs to falling demand, and from sustain- mental goals. (See info-graphic)
ability issues to supply chain ethics, the cotton industry is Launching next year, the U.S.
currently dealing with a perfect storm of challenges. Amidst Cotton Trust Pro-
these difficulties, the “fabric of our lives” — long the fiber tocol (USCTP)
of choice for apparel and home textiles — is determined
to improve future prospects from field to marketplace.
was developed
to help the U.S.
13%
According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) cotton produc-
Decrease Decrease Decrease Decrease Increase Increase
10 Year Goals energy water soil loss greenhouse gas land use soil
For U.S. Cotton use use per acre emmissions effeciency carbon
tion sector further reduce its footprint
by enabling growers to assess their
performance against these goals.
“The large-scale, mechanized and
technologically advanced growing tech-
niques in the U.S. mean that many
of the concerns applicable in other
15% countries are just not relevant here,”
Adams maintains. “We believe that the
Source: Cotton Incorporated 18% U.S. cotton grown today is the most
sustainable cotton in the world.”
November 2019 report, cotton stocks are Making Cotton Better
high, and demand is falling. The USDA In less developed regions of the world
expects mill consumption to decline in cotton is farmed primarily by smallhold-
China, Bangladesh, Brazil, India, Thai- ers. The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)
land, Turkey, the U.S. and Vietnam. is dedicated to making global cotton
Dr. Gary Adams, president and CEO production better for the farmers, for
of the National Cotton Council, explains, the environment, and for the sector’s
“The current escalation of tariffs between future. BCI’s two million farmers pro-
the U.S. and China is a significant factor duced 5.1m metric tonnes of Better
affecting a complex, global fiber market. Cotton lint in the 2017-18 cotton season,
Since the trade dispute began in mid- accounting for 19 percent of global
2018, cotton prices have declined by
almost 30 percent.”
39% cotton production.
BCI’s sourcing model employs a chain
While January’s tentative agreement of custody product segregation from
between China and the U.S. for a phase the field to the gin; all bales produced by participating
one trade deal offers some hope to U.S. gins are 100 percent Better Cotton and can be traced back
farmers, many will continue to store the to licensed BCI Farmers.
recent cotton harvest until prices rise. A “mass-balance” system of credits tracks the post-
Demonized for its high use of water, ginning volume of Better Cotton sourced by BCI Retailer
chemicals, and GM seed, cotton is being
replaced in fabrics by textile fibers con-
50% and Brand Members while allowing it to be substituted
or mixed with conventional cotton throughout the cotton
textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 15TECHNOLOGY | COTTON INDUSTRY
supply chain. Brands and retailers pay revise Better Cotton Standard System and other materials to “provide source conflict-free cotton can do
a fee to BCI relevant to the volume of policies and procedures with the goal innate chemical evidence of their so confidently,” explains Hodges.
Better Cotton they source; but their of preventing and detecting forced chemical, geographic, and industrial
end product may or may not contain labor. provenance.” Improving Cotton’s Prospects
Better Cotton. Lena Staafgard, BCI’s COO, remarks, This means, explains Wan, that The cotton industry is moving
BCI explains that by using a system “Increasingly, consumers are looking cotton from a specific region such as forward.
of mass-balance, the organization is for products that have a positive Xinjiang could potentially be identi- “I think market demand is still rela-
able to reach more farmers and imple- impact on people and the planet, fied and separated from the supply tively high,” believes Hodges. “The
ment more sustainable practices. while not taking brands’ marketing chain in the future. current zeitgeist for natural, plastic-
claims at face value. Many are looking “Conflict cotton poses a signifi- free products has kept the onus on
Supply Chain Ethics Under Fire for brands to be able to back up their cant social issue that many in the natural fibers; and the increased
Recent reports from major newspa- sustainability claims with evidence.” fashion industry are working hard attention around the involvement
pers are calling out “conflict cotton” Calling the Xinjiang situation to fix,” says Rupert Hodges, execu- of forced labor sees brands looking
being grown, processed and sewn “shocking,” MeiLin Wan, VP textile tive director of Oritain, a company to established, reputable, cotton-
by Muslim Uighurs in forced-labor sales at Applied DNA Sciences, Inc. that provides forensic verification producing regions.”
internment camps in the Xinjiang reminds us, “Traceability can help of origin for cotton and other com- Adams concurs, “The last four
region of China. The region supplies control conflict cotton.” modities. decades tell an encouraging story
some 84 percent of Chinese cotton “Most brands do not view beyond Oritain is partnering with COTTON of continuous improvement in U.S.
products, sourced by a number of their Tier 1 suppliers. But the days USA to provide forensic verification cotton production. As the fashion
global brands. of ‘not wanting to know’ are quickly of origin for all US cotton. Oritain’s industry increasingly scrutinizes its
In the 2017/18 cotton season ending; and the consumer is asking forensic science analyses both trace supply chain and actively commits
China accounted for 23.1 percent ‘what are brands actually doing?’” elements and stable isotopes to to sustainable sourcing, we believe
of Better Cotton production. While Applied DNA’s CertainT platform provide the most accurate origin that U.S. cotton will become an even
BCI acknowledges it is aware of and combines its SigNature T molecular information. more desirable choice.”
concerned by reports of the situation tagging of textile fibers with a robust As the USCTP launches in Febru- Staafgard reminds us, “To safeguard
in Xinjiang, it has found no direct program that tests and tracks product ary 2020, Oritain will work on the the future of the sector and secure the
evidence of forced labor at any of along the supply chain to verify its pilot to verify cotton has come from wellbeing of farming communities, we
the BCI-licensed farms in the region. authenticity. protocol-approved farms. must work to ensure that all cotton is
BCI has laid out a plan that will In addition, Applied DNA recently “By being able to independently produced more sustainably. Ultimately,
deliver a third-party analysis of the partnered with Molecular Isotope verify the origin of cotton back to we believe cotton has a great sustain-
situation by the end of January 2020, Technologies (MIT), LLC to develop the US—a place free of conflict ability story, touching all aspects in
and will use the report findings to isotopic “fingerprints” for cotton cotton—any brand wanting to a way many other options don’t.” l
“Increasingly, consumers
are looking for products
that have a positive
impact on people
and the planet, while
not taking brands’
marketing claims at
face value. Many are
looking for brands to
be able to back up their
sustainability claims
with evidence.”
Lena Staafgard, COO, BCI.
16 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020
textileinsight.comYOUR STORY MATTERS.
It can be tough to grow your business alone.
Outdoor Retailer is the space to engage
and strengthen business in the outdoor industry.
A community together wins.
OUTDOOR + SUMMER
SNOW SHOW MARKET
J A N UA RY 2 9 - 3 1 , 2 0 2 0 JUNE 23-25, 2020
DENVER, CO DENVER, CO
PHOTO BY JOSE LLAMAS ON UNSPLASH
O U T D O O R R E TA I L E R .C O M
———— Building the outdoor community since 1982. ————IN THE MARKET | MADE IN USA
How Suppliers are Moving the Needle in Domestic Make.
Finding Traction
N
Dan St. Louis described the growth he’s seen first hand
as executive director of the Manufacturing Solutions
Center (MSC) in a December interview with The Weekly
RoundUp, a podcast dedicated to all things business
in North Carolina. “There’s been extraordinary growth
in start-ups since 2010, and when you look at the data
70 percent of these people are under 40 years old,”
said St. Louis, adding, “this is opening lots of doors for
small manufacturers, which we have clusters of here,
that are willing to do small runs that are higher profit.”
ews of factory openings and Located on the campus of Catawba Community
facility expansion, along with reports of ambitious Collage, in Conover, NC, the MSC focuses on helping
growth plans and commercialization of leading edge, commercialize product, with prototyping, applied R&D,
home grown product is gradually becoming the norm testing and equipment onsite. St. Louis says he has
Darn Tough CEO Ric Cabot (pictured in the United States. With entrepreneurial spirit, textile seen “a lot of crazy ideas” from aerospace to sporting
below right with his father, company
businesses are revitalizing regions with investment, goods come through MSC doors that proved viable.
founder Marc Cabot) will oversee
construction of a new manufacturing
employment, and strategic direction. CBD infused compression sleeves are one example.
facility and expanded office space in For example, new ventures in North Carolina put a For the past three years, North Carolina-based
the year ahead. progressive spin on textile heritage. Founder’s Hemp and biomaterials company Nufabrx
have been testing and developing a com-
pression sleeve garment, called Hemp
Squeeze, using Founder’s Hemp CBD
Oil. The hemp extract is infused into the
fibers of the Nufabrx yarn, a patented
technology that delivers 3-dimensional,
360 degrees of active relief to the elbow
and knee. “We’re taking a brand new
industry — hemp, and taking an old
industry — textile and we’re using new
technology to help rejuvenate textiles
in North Carolina,” said Bob Crumley,
founder and CEO of Founder’s Hemp. “I
never dreamed, when we first started this
three years ago, that our Hemp Squeeze
product would be made in Asheboro.”
Jordan Schindler, founder of Nufabrx
moved his headquarters in 2016 from
Seattle to the Manufacturing Solutions
Center (MSC). “To move my vision
forward, I needed a home base that
understood the textile industry,” said
Schindler. “Health Wear is the next gen-
eration of clothing, with CBD and other
actives built directly into the garment
itself.”
Advancing Performance
AKAS Tex, a PA-based textile manufac-
turing and design firm, has introduced
a one-way wicking fabric designed to
keep athletes cool, dry, and fresh, even
in the most humid conditions. ProCool
Stretch-FIT Dri-QWick Sports Jersey is
a double-facing fabric with hydrophilic
fibers next to the skin to wick moisture
18 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020
textileinsight.comaway, and hydrophobic fibers on the other side to keep for the long term,” Cabot was quoted as saying. “It’s “We’re taking a brand
moisture from seeping back into the fabric. It also uses for the prosperity and job security of the people who new industry — hemp,
Lycra for a four-way stretch and recovery. have been with us all these years.” and taking an old
“The hydrophilic side has a special diamond mesh Georgia is also experiencing progress on the pro-
industry —textile
and we’re using new
which increases the surface area for wicking,” explained duction front. Following two decades of decline, the technology to help
Sid Sharma, AKAS president. “It’s similar to a crest and opening of American Knits returns apparel manufacturing rejuvenate textiles in
valley — the raised diamond gathers the moisture and to the town of Swainsboro. The new business bolsters North Carolina.”
pulls it into the valley. We also use a special binding the domestic supply chain with regionally-located Bob Crumley
yarn between the layers which ties them together, but textile suppliers Buhler Quality Yarns, Jefferson, Ga., Founder, Founder’s Hemp
doesn’t allow the hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibers Gastonia, N.C.-based Parkdale, and Carolina Cotton “There’s been
to mix.” It is manufactured without harmful chemicals Works (CCW), Gaffney, S.C. Premium knit tops using 100 extraordinary growth
or finishes in highly controlled settings. percent U.S. grown ring-spun cotton will be produced, in start-ups since 2010,
AKAS sources raw materials in the USA and partners including T-shirts for a supplier to the U.S. military. and when you look at
the data 70 percent of
exclusively with American mills for production. In addi- American Knits execs make the point that their these people are under
tion to creating fabrics for customers, AKAS has its company represents a new story in terms of domesti- 40 years old.”
own line of high-performance textiles including some cally produced textiles. “The old story was 20-plus Dan St. Louis
of the top brands for absorbency (ZORB), food safety years ago, when many of the plants in the U.S. closed. Executive Director,
(ProCare), and organics (ProEco). ProCool is the latest Over the last eight years, I’ve discovered that there is Manufacturing Solutions Center
addition to the firm’s branded offering. a demand for U.S.-manufactured goods. And younger “We work with the
The family-owned enterprise, established in 2007, has folks kind of care about where it’s made, the type of best American knitters
grown by double digits every year, according to Sharma fabric that’s used and the sustainability part of it. We and laminators and
and will be expanding its facility space two-fold in 2020. felt like if we could find the right place, then the demand have good partners.”
Strategic decision-making, technical proficiency, and was there,” said managing director Steve Hawkins, at Arch Sharma
CEO, AKAS Tex
lean corporate structure has fueled company success. a recent media event. Managing partner Dr. David
In addition to designing and making fabric, the Talton elaborated, “We want everybody to know that
company has weeded out overseas businesses and we’re more than just another plant — we’re making a
concentrated on forming solid partnerships with estab- new story here around how we treat people and how
lished branded ingredient firms like Dow (Silvadur), we treat our customers, and our employees will reflect
DuPont (Teflon), Invista (CoolMax), and Lycra. to our customers how we treat them.” l
AKAS recently announced a licensing agreement
with Cotton Incorporated to manufacture and market
the TransDry fabrics.
“We work with the best American knitters and lami-
nators and have good partners,” said AKAS CEO Arch
Sharma.
Factory Investment
Sock maker Darn Tough Vermont, based in Northfield,
VT, is adding a new 50,000-square-foot manufacturing
facility to its production next year, and expects to have
100 people working at the new Waterbury, VT site in
2021. The leased space is part of an ambitious five-year
growth plan for Cabot Hosiery Mill, Darn Tough’s parent
company. In an interview with the local press, CEO Ric
Cabot said the company expects to sell 8 million pairs
of socks in 2020.
Renovations will start in February to create an addi-
tional 17,000 square feet of office space in the facility
with manufacturing starting in Waterbury later in 2020.
The company’s headquarters and existing sock factory Hemp Squeeze
will stay in Northfield. Darn Tough recently spent $2.5 compression
million updating the 100-year-old Nantanna Building to sleeves feature
hemp extract
increase the company’s space for manufacturing and infused into fibers
internet fulfillment in Northfield. of Nufabrx yarn.
“We’re doing this to fund our growth, but it’s also
textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 19Revtown Denim
STRATEGIES | UNIQUE BUSINESSES
Niche Firms Are Finding Traction Through Differentiation in the Apparel Space. By Suzanne Blecher
BIG
IDEAS
SMALL COMPANIES
I
n an industry that can be dominated by September. We put out a call for real women recycling loop. Our Lana Series is a woolen shell
huge conglomerates, small – and even via our customer database, social channels, and layer that is waterproof by construction and uses
tiny – companies are standing out by website and used them as the basis for building no DWR or membrane. The biodegradable fabric
presenting innovative ideas. Here are the product. We had women of all backgrounds, is created by treating a tight woolen knit with
three notable names currently on our radar. from fitness instructors, photographers, chefs, water and heat, creating a super dense weave
and YouTubers just to name a few.” that doesn’t let water, yet breathes like your
REVTOWN, Pittsburgh, PA favorite wool sweater. Houdini gear does not
Comfort and fit can be secondary in denim. have to look technical, it just has to be technical.”
What makes Revtown unique? How are you addressing that and how does
Henry Stafford, CEO: “It starts with a really it tie to your mission? What do you have for the upcoming season
high-quality product at an affordable price – “Our jeans won’t dig into your waist or cut off that illustrates the brand’s unique perspec-
$79. But we also believe that jeans should be circulation or crush your crotch. We’ve even tive on sportswear?
sustainable. That means they last wash after had some people tell us they work out in them “For FW20, we are launching the Mono Air series,
wash, but it also means that we are commit- when they’re on the go and in a pinch; they’re the latest iteration of fabric based on Polartec’s
ted to clean denim production. One hundred just that flexible. With a background in athletic Power Air concept. It’s a fleece specifically
percent of all waste is recycled, and our denim apparel fit and comfort and durability, it felt that designed to combat the problem of micro fiber
is sustainably dyed using shrimp shells, orange this hadn’t translated into the denim industry. release into rivers and oceans.”
peels, and nut shells – saving energy, water, and It’s also why we created our ‘Digital Tailor’ tool,
using less chemicals in the process.” which allows customers to enter their personal Your mission is “Houdini is a group of friends
data and it sizes them up to 95 percent accuracy.” on a mission, always guided by our core
Tell me about some of the unique materials values: Do good, play hard, push boundar-
you use. HOUDINI SPORTSWEAR, Nacka, Sweden ies, have fun!” How does that translate into
“One thing that we learned from our time [pre- what you create?
viously working] at Under Armour is that it What makes Houdini unique? “We often say that people feel unrestricted in
always starts with material and fabric. What Eva Karlsson, CEO: “We are proud of having a our gear, kind of like they can go do anything
we found was Decade Denim, which is our collection where 100 percent of the fabrics are they want and the clothes would just work.
signature and trademarked fabric made from either made from recycled/renewable material, When we find partners, whose values resonate
premium Italian yarn and infused with four- can be recycled/biodegraded or are Bluesign- with ours, we tend to hold on to them. With
way, dynamic stretch, and constructed with certified. We have set a goal of having our Polartec, that’s over 25 years!”
the strongest fibers. Products look and feel collection 100 percent circular by 2022. For
like a high-end pair of jeans, while they fit and FW2019, 63 percent of our styles are circular.” MINISTRY OF SUPPLY, Boston, MA
perform like an athletic pant.”
Tell me about some of the unique materials What makes Ministry of Supply unique?
What do you have for the upcoming season you use. Ministry of Supply Co-Founder, Gihan
that illustrates the brand’s unique perspec- “First, there’s our circular shell program where Amarasiriwardena: “We start with wardrobe
tive on denim? we work with Japanese fabric supplier Teijin problem statements, research deeply, and design
“We just launched our women’s lineup in late to create shell fabrics that can go around in a and test garments that solve those problems.
textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 21You can also read
