With love - Hazendal Wine Estate
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STELLENBOSCH DINING
with love
FROM RUSSIA,
Combining new and experimental ideas with age-old traditions,
Hazendal Wine Estate in Stellenbosch is the perfect mix of
history, family and innovation. Malu Lambert explores the
different aspects this dynamic farm has to offer – from hopping
hares to Fabergé eggs
PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRUCE TUCK RECIPE AND STYLING BY MICHÉLLE THERON
62 APRIL 2019
STELLENBOSCH DINING
“
Avant-Garde means to detail is felt everywhere in Avant-Garde,
be forward-looking in yet it is never imposing.”
respect to art, culture Lunch starts with a hula hoop of a
and society,” says pastry called baranki served with a glass
chef Michélle Theron, of chilled ice tea – a traditional Russian
explaining the thinking welcome. Through floor-to-ceiling glass
behind Hazendal’s new doors, the Bottelary day blazes away in
restaurant of the same comparison to the cool, hushed setting
name. “We want to push boundaries of the restaurant. “Avant-Garde is all
with our contemporary interpretation about contrasts; in particular, the
of South African and Russian recipes, juxtaposition of the old and the new,”
and celebrate the coming together of Michélle says. “This message is carried
these two cultures.” Michélle always across in both the food and the interior,
looks as if she’s ready to spring into from the contemporary art on the walls
action – she has an intrinsic energy to the hand-painted ceiling.” The latter
and a warm, open face, much like took a purported two months to
the sun that’s pouring down on the complete and is straight out of a Tolstoy
recently restored farm. novel set in Russian high society.
From my table, I can see into the wine
The restaurant, which operates only cellar walled in by glass, the domain of
for lunch service (though the space is winemaker, Clarise Sciocatti-Langeveldt.
available for evening functions), officially A beautiful multi-column copper still is
opened on 26 December 2018. “We positioned directly in my eyeline. With
literally built the restaurant from the this still, Hazendal will be making vodkas
ground up,” Michélle shares. Prior to her from wine-grape cultivars. They are still
appointment here as executive chef, she in the beginning stages of this alchemy,
held the same title at Pierneef à La Motte but they have plans to produce a range
restaurant in Franschhoek. “At La Motte, of vodkas and to open a vodka bar.
we also had to start from the very Hazendal dates all the way back to
beginning. I learnt so much; this would 1699. The story goes that German settler
not have been possible without the Christoffel Hazenwinkel was granted
building blocks I gained there.” 60 hectares of land in the Bottelary Hills
Michélle spent eight years at Pierneef by Governor Willem Adriaan van der Stel.
à La Motte and, as sad as she was to Inspired by his name, as well as the
leave, she says she couldn’t say no to population of Cape hares that inhabited
this opportunity. “It’s always good to the area at the time, Christoffel called
make a change. You have to keep those the farm Hazendal which, in Dutch,
creative juices flowing,” she muses. Her translates to “the valley of the hares”.
enthusiasm is clear – she’s bubbling Through the years, the farm changed
away with ideas for all the different hands fairly often. It was the Bosman
sections of the farm that fall under her family – who owned the farm for five
guidance. “I run the whole culinary show generations – that transformed it into a
here,” she says with a wide smile. wine-producing estate. During this time,
Much like the matryoshka doll (Russian Bacchus – the Roman god of agriculture
nesting doll) itself, there are many layers and wine – became the farm’s emblem,
to this estate. Having undergone a as it still is today.
radical rebirth, it now features – along The Russian influence came to
with the restaurant – a new winery and Hazendal in the form of current owner,
distillery, deli, Russian Tea Garden, Dr Mark Voloshin – a Russian-born
conference room, wedding pavilion, art entrepreneur. “I fell in love with South
gallery and a children’s education Africa and the Cape when I first visited
centre called Wonderdal. the country in the 1980s,” Mark says. He
We’re welcomed by food and bought Hazendal in 1994. “My dream was
beverage manager, Willem van der to create a unique destination in the
Merwe, who says as he shows us to our Winelands, as well as leave a positive
table: “I want our guests to feel as if impact on the community.”
they’re seated in the dining room of a The business is family-run, and Mark
very grand, stately home. The feeling says he enjoys working closely with his
of grandeur, elegance and attention to daughters Simone and Ina Voloshin,
FOODANDHOME.CO.ZA APRIL 2019 63
STELLENBOSCH DINING
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: MANAGING DIRECTOR
AT HAZENDAL, SHLOMI AZAR; EXECUTIVE
DIRECTOR AND SHLOMI’S WIFE, SIMONE
VOLOSHIN; OWNER, DR MARK VOLOSHIN;
AND EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR INA VOLOSHIN
64 APRIL 2019
STELLENBOSCH DINING
who are both executive directors of the This is followed by a chilled bowl of soup
estate, and Simone’s husband, Shlomi called okróshka. “It’s inspired by a
Azar, who is the managing director of classic Russian dish,” Sherman says.
Hazendal. Though he has numerous “Our version is made from potato, onion
business ventures across the globe, and buttermilk, garnished with spring
which means a fair amount of travelling, onions and chives.” With its bright,
Mark says he is happiest at Hazendal, herbaceous flavour, it’s a cool and
his “true home”. “The revamp was an energising way to start a meal.
extension of my 25-year-old dream Russian influences playing lightly with
and, as such, I was very involved in the South African flavours are woven
reimagining of the estate,” he smiles. throughout the meal. Like the barbecued
When asked about the decision to watermelon reduction that comes with
relaunch the estate, Simone explains: octopus terrine, green melon, saltbush,
“A 320-year-old farm needs to reinvent dehydrated tomatoes, salsa verde and
itself in order to stay significant, both cured ham. Then in the lamb dish, a
from a cultural and financial point of view. traditional Russian staple, porridge, is
The most important aspect was that the put in the spotlight with a savoury barley
whole farm needed to be reimagined, risotto served alongside slow-braised
as old and new should always be in lamb, hazelnuts and mushrooms.
harmony. The renovations and additions The dishes are somehow new yet
were done on a large scale. Existing nostalgic at the same time. “We’re
structures were intertwined; for example, having a lot of fun with the menu,”
our wine-tasting lounge is in the estate’s Michélle grins. “Originally, I knew nothing
original cellar, blending traditional and about Russian food, but the owners have
contemporary design.” been so open with me, always bringing
Other additions include a custom- me different foods to try and, through
built conferencing facility. The Pavilion tasting and talking, I’ve learnt so much.
venue is also something to behold – it They are amazing people and have
floats above water and is framed by the been so collaborative in the process.
magnificent views of the Bottelary Hills Though they have given me free rein of
and Simonsberg mountains. “A huge the menu, I think if you gave them half a
focus is on culinary offerings,” Simone chance, they would be cooking with me
continues. “At Avant-Garde, Michélle in the kitchen!”
seamlessly merges South African and At Avant-Garde, Michélle works
Russian cuisines to create works of art. alongside head chef, Sergio Jacobs,
On the other hand, the Babushka whose enthusiasm is palpable. “It is
Deli is perfect for breakfasts and always exciting to try new things and CAPTION TO GO HERE CAPTION
TO GO HERE CAPTION TO GO
casual lunches.” At the deli, Michélle learn fresh ways of approaching a dish,” HERE CAPTION TO GO HERE
works with head chef, Carmel Watts, he says. “I love working with Russian CAPTION TO GO HERE CAPTION
on a bistro-style menu with Soviet recipes and local produce to create
nuances, from piroshky (Russian dishes that celebrate both cultures in
half-moon pastries stuffed with a an interesting and contemporary way.”
variety of fillings) to beetroot dishes Michélle continues, “There aren’t any
and up-styled potato salad. boundaries – I try something new and
“Further offerings include the Dacha I apply global cooking methods. A good
Picnics, to be enjoyed on the expansive example is the other day, when I was
lawns, as well as after-work Zakuski playing around with a ramen-style dish.
[Russian-inspired tapas-style food] in Russia has pelmeni, a [dumpling-like]
the historic Kraal. One of the most filled pasta that looks like honeycomb.
unique offerings at Hazendal is the I’m using that with duck and apples –
Russian Tea Ceremony served under both ingredients are very big in Russia.
the canopy of historic oak trees in the To go with it, I’ve made a kombu [kelp]
Russian Tea Garden,” Simone adds. dashi with roasted apple. Apple kombu
Back at lunch, restaurant manager, is going to be the next big thing – you
Sherman Matthews, brings over a heard it here first,” she says, laughing.
breadboard with black rye bread, Although her inspiration and vision
tangerine butter and a carrot-miso dip. know no bounds, Michélle has kept her
“Tangerine is big in Russia,” he smiles, focus to local suppliers, sourcing much
presenting the citrus-infused butter. of her produce from neighbouring farms.
FOODANDHOME.CO.ZA APRIL 2019 65
STELLENBOSCH DINING
“Wherever you are in the world, it’s the harvest is predicted for 2020). “I buy in
ingredients – not the recipe – that make only the cultivars we’ve planted and
the dish different and particular I source locally – I don’t want the style of
to that place,” she smiles. wine to change once we are using our
Michélle sources grass-fed beef from own vineyards,” Clarise explains over a
Ryan Boon and the farm has its own glass of the estate’s MCC, Scarlet Sails.
vegetable-and-herb garden which, “It’s a dream project for a winemaker;
though relatively new, is already I’ve basically planted my wish list of
rewarding Michélle, particularly with her cultivars that suit this region,” she beams.
new favourite pumpkin called a Turk’s Their white cultivars include sauvignon
Turban. “We also make our own butter blanc, chenin blanc, marsanne, rousanne
with cream from Camelot Dairy,” and even albariño (a Spanish varietal);
Michélle enthuses. while the red category has pinot noir,
“As I get new things in, I put new shiraz, cabernet, carignan, carménère
dishes on [the menu]. I’ve also always and Pinotage. “Dr Voloshin loves
built my menus in such a way that I can Pinotage,” she says emphatically. “I’ve
cater for everyone, so the dishes can made him a small consignment of
easily become vegetarian or vegan. Pinotage MCC before.” The foiled labels
For example, with the lamb dish, I use of the Hazendal range are beautiful and
vegetable stock instead of lamb stock the owners have played a large part
for the barley risotto. We also make our in the conception of the design. “They CAPTION TO GO HERE CAPTION
own vegan cheese from cashew nuts.” know what they want,” Clarise smiles. TO GO HERE CAPTION TO GO
HERE CAPTION TO GO HERE
Dessert arrives and it’s a moment of Next up is the whimsical lifestyle wine CAPTION TO GO HERE CAPTION
total theatre. There’s the Anna Pavlova – range called Christoffel Hazenwinkel,
a pile of meringue cigars housing cream- which features a white and red blend, as
cheese custard fillings with green-tea well as a rosé. Each bottle shows a hare
sablés [shortbread cookies], matcha- in a different pose which, Clarise says,
coated milk “rocks” and strawberries- are actual photos – a special hare’s head
and-cream ice cream. Pastry chef, was made for a person to pose in.
Corien Hatting, says, “The inspiration On my way out, I stop at the Marvol
behind these desserts came from the Gallery which, according to Ina, should
Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova and her be a catalyst for the discovery of the
stunning ballet tutus.” Russian culture while forging connections
There’s also a chocolate and edible- between Russian and South African
gold-foiled Fabergé egg [a jewelled egg artists. “I want to reach out to the wider
created by the House of Fabergé in community and support conversations
St Petersburg, Russia] that comes with on many different topics which are
its own hammer to smash it open. Corien relevant to both traditions,” she says.
comments on this one, too: “Hazendal “In the long term, [I want] to build a
is known for the owners’ extensive Russian cultural centre that not only
collection of Fabergé eggs, so we exhibits art but also provides many
thought it would be interesting to do a different experiences with artists,
signature dessert inspired by them, and thinkers, musicians and literary figures.”
the flavours will change regularly.” As I leave, carefully placing the pieces
After enjoying Hazendal Chardonnay together like the aforementioned
at lunch, I make my way to the tasting matryoshka doll, I think the experience
room on the other side of my dining here resembles this Russian symbol
spot to chat to winemaker Clarise. The for another reason: the doll can be
double-volume space features oil opened and, inside, you’ll find other
portraits of all the estate’s owners dolls; each nestled inside one another.
displayed over the entrance. The number of figurines nested in one
Clarise, a South African with Italian matryoshka doll usually ranges from WITH A HIGHER
PERCENTAGE OF
heritage, is an Elsenburg graduate who three to twelve, and it’s said the dolls PINOT NOIR TO
cut her teeth at Avondale and Eaglevlei represent future generations which, in CHARDONNAY,
HAZENDAL’S MCC,
wine estates before she found herself turn, fittingly symbolise hope and the SCARLET SAILS,
making the wines at Hazendal. They value of family – a lot like Mark’s vision LEADS WITH TOASTY
BRIOCHE NOTES
are currently buying in all their grapes for his family farm, if wuold say. FOLLOWED BY BAKED
while they wait for their newly planted BOTTELARY ROAD, STELLENBOSCH; GREEN APPLE
AND CITRUS
vineyards to mature (the inaugural 021-903-5034; HAZENDAL.CO.ZA
66 APRIL 2019
CAPTION TO GO HERE CAPTION TO GO
PLANET AND PEOPLE HERE CAPTION TO GO HERE CAPTION
TO GO HERE CAPTION TO GO HERE
With all its new offerings, Hazendal CAPTION TO GO HERE
now employs more than 150 people; in
this, the farm offers fully serviced and
renovated accommodation for more
than 40 residents (over 20 employees
and their families) as well as a fully
equipped after-school village crèche
for 15 children.
On that note, Hazendal is equally TURK’S TURBAN SQUASH
AND KALE PELMENI,
committed to the planet as it is to its CURED KEI APPLE,
people. Managing director Shlomi CHEDDAR CREAM AND
HAZELNUT DUKKAH
Azar says, “Hazendal is treading as
lightly as possible on its little corner
of the planet. As such, the farm has
installed solar panels to reduce its
carbon footprint, and we’re carefully
managing the property’s entire water
cycle. We source water from a
borehole and treat effluent and
wastewater before feeding it into
the reservoir, which is then used for
irrigation. Every drop is valued. ONLINE BONUS!
“In terms of Hazendal’s products FOR THESE
and packaging, great care has gone ADDITIONAL
into selecting materials that are RECIPES, VISIT
biodegradable and/or that come from FOODANDHOME.CO.ZA
sustainable natural sources. This
policy of being mindful of the planet is
an estate-wide strategy, which is why
napery isn’t used in the restaurants
and waste is deliberately minimised. OKROSHKA BROTH, SEARED SALMON
Hazendal also has an on-site refuse TROUT, BRONZE FENNEL AND MINT OIL
centre in which glass, paper, plastic
and perishable waste are recycled.”
STELLENBOSCH DINING
out piece of dough. Prick the discs with
a fork and transfer to the prepared
baking sheets. Bake in the preheated
RUSSIAN HONEY
LAYER CAKE oven until golden, about 12 minutes.
Remove from oven and set aside to
cool completely.
4 While the cakes are baking, make
the citrus sugar syrup. Combine all
of the sugar-syrup ingredients in a
small saucepan. Bring to a boil over
medium heat. Continue to boil until the
sugar has melted and the mixture has
reached a syrupy consistency, about
5 minutes. Remove from heat and, using
a pastry brush, brush the cake layers
with a generous basting of sugar syrup.
5 For the honey crème, place the 140g
honey in a heavy-based saucepan and
heat over medium heat until it starts to
caramelise. Soak the gelatine leaves
in a bowl of cold water until soft, about
1 minute. Squeeze the excess water
from the softened gelatine leaves and
cook’s tip
add them to the caramelised honey.
Add 110ml of the cream. Mix until well
combined. Remove from heat and set
aside to cool.
Cut any remaining pieces of dough 6 Beat the remaining 335ml cream
and cereal crunch into different-sized until soft peaks form. Add the vanilla
triangles and bake/freeze along with the essence. Fold the whipped cream into
discs for decoration. the honey mixture. Add the sour cream
and mix until just combined. Scale 4
x 180g portions of the mixture and
reserve the remaining 200g. Set aside.
7 For the cereal crunch, melt the
RUSSIAN HONEY LAYER CAKE CEREAL CRUNCH
chocolate and nut butter together in a
80g 37% milk chocolate
Serves 6 – 8 A LITTLE EFFORT 2 hrs medium saucepan over medium heat.
45g nut butter of your choice
90g Kellogg’s Corn Flakes, crushed Add the cereal and mix until all of the
WHAT YOU NEED corn flakes are coated. Roll out the
CAKE mixture between 2 sheets of baking
honeycomb shards, to garnish
3 eggs paper until 2cm in thickness. Using a
133g castor sugar 20cm round cake tin, cut a disc out of
HOW TO DO IT
90g unsalted butter, at the layer. Place in the freezer to chill
1 For the cake, preheat the oven to
room temperature until just set, about 15 minutes.
160˚C. Line 2 baking sheets with baking
70g honey 8 To assemble, place 1 cake layer on
paper. Set aside until needed.
400g cake flour a cake stand. Spread with one of the
2 Combine the eggs and castor sugar
5g bicarbonate of soda 180g portions of honey crème followed
in a large glass bowl placed over a pot
of barely simmering water (do not allow by a second layer of cake and 180g
CITRUS SUGAR SYRUP honey crème. Place the chilled cereal
the base of the glass bowl to touch the
50ml water crunch layer on top and spread with the
water). Mix until well combined. Add the
50g white sugar third 180g portion of honey crème. Top
butter and mix until melted. Remove
1 tbsp orange-blossom water with another cake layer and the final
from heat and add the 70g honey along
with the remaining cake ingredients. 180g portion of honey crème. Finish off
HONEY CRÈME with the last cake layer.
Mix until a firm dough forms.
140g honey 9 Spread the 200g reserved honey
3 Divide the dough into 4 pieces, each
4 (1g) gelatine leaves crème over the outside of the cake.
weighing 175g. Roll out each piece
445ml thick/double-thick cream Decorate with the cake and cereal
between 2 sheets of baking paper until
1 tsp vanilla essence crunch offcuts (see our Cook’s Tip), as
2,2cm in thickness. Using a 20cm round
335ml sour cream well as with the honeycomb shards.
cake tin, cut a disc out of each rolled-
68 APRIL 2019
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