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10
2018
Metropolisjapan.com Japan’s No.1 English Magazine Priceless
FUKUSHIMA
S even Year s O n
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 27
HALLOWEEN
A F T E R DA R K
Legato Sky Lounge, Shibuya 9pm!–!late ¥3,000 metropolisjapan.com/halloween2018
Tickets available online — For VIP seats, visit info@blacklisttokyo.com
SPONSORS
Y October
ou may have noticed a few changes in Metropolis recently. We are striving to
give our readers a higher quality and more in-depth reading experience. In ad-
dition to our long-standing and much-loved columns such as movies, food and
music, we have been commissioning two long-form feature articles every month. 2018
This month we are very proud to publish a Fukushima special written by Andrew Deck Cover photo
and M.W. Larson. The two feature stories focus on the aftermath and current situation by Stephan Jarvis
at the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear plant and one man’s campaign of resistance and his
political fight to revitalize a small Fukushima town. Since the 2011 Tohoku earthquake
and tsunami, and its subsequent effect on the lives of millions and consciousness of
a nation, Fukushima has become a political, agricultural and social focal point. The
workers at Fukushima Daiichi nuclear plant are still putting their lives at risk to keep
the site at a relative level of safety and the bravery and commitment to their jobs is
truly awe-inspiring. “Bravery” has become such a misused and inane word in con-
temporary consciousness, but the workers and people of Fukushima and Tohoku can
inspire, with genuine bravery, Japan and its multifarious inhabitants to work together
for a more prosperous and harmonious future.
As we move towards the Tokyo 2020 Olympics and next year’s Rugby World Cup
lest we forget the many who have been affected by the events of Fukushima and are
still haunted by March 11, 2011 and its repercussions today. Novelist Milan Kundera
writes, in his novel The Unbearable Lightness of Being, “for there is nothing heavier than
compassion. Not even one’s own pain weighs so heavy as the pain one feels with some-
one, for someone, a pain intensified by the imagination and prolonged by a hundred
echoes.”
Paul McInnes
Editor-in-Chief
FEATURE FEATURE FASHION MUSIC
In The Core The Nowhere Man Selvedge Style RGL
Fukushima’s Farmer’s campaign for URVIN spearheads Sonic fusion of boogie,
nuclear salarymen Fukushima’s future Okayama denim hip-hop and house
Page 20 Page 28 Page 16 Page 10
Metropolis is Japan’s No.1 English magazine, founded in 1994 and metropolisjapan.com
published for Japan’s international community
Neil Butler Paul McInnes
Metropolis Magazine
Publisher and Editor-in-Chief
Chief Executive Officer
Editorial Stephan Jarvis (Editor), Andrew Deck (Assistant Editor), Angeli Rambukpota, Caroline Perrine, Grace Harrah, Shu Sasaki (Editorial Interns),
Anna Cock Gibson (Proofreader) Contributing Editors Don Morton (Movies), Sarajean Rossitto (Community) Design & Development Claas Bischof (Art Director), @MetropolisTokyo
Richard Koyama-Daniels (Graphic Designer), Fernando Goya (Designer/Developer), Natsuki Shimana (Developer), Julia Mascetti, Masaru Urano (Interactive Media Associates)
Advertising Karl Nakashima, Niki Kaihara (Sales Managers), Eri Arai (Sales Administrator), Ayumi Naraoka (Sales Intern)
Reach over 60,000 8F Nishi-Azabu Sonic Bldg, © Copyright 2018 Japan Partnership Holdings Inc.
3-2-12 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku, MetropolisTokyo
Metropolis readers. The views expressed herein are not necessarily those of the
Advertise: Tokyo 106-0031 publisher. The publisher reserves the right to edit or delete
any advertisement without notice.
Tel: 03-4588-2277
sales@metropolisjapan.com 03-4588-2277 Fax: 03-4588-2278 editor
metropolisjapan.com/advertise metropolisinfo.net metropolisjapan.com @metropolisjapan.com
Metropolis Recommends OCTOBER 6 – 7
EDITOR’S PICK
Nakano Nigiwai Festival 2018
(Beat Park)
Nakano, the small but infinitely superior neighbor of
Shinjuku, is a bustling part of Tokyo full of great wee
stores, bars, cafes, restaurants and the legendary
Nakano Broadway shotengai choc-a-block with shops
and eccentric niche outlets. The Nakano Nigiwai
Festival is a two-day extravaganza showcasing the
neighborhood’s world-famous skateboarding scene,
local cuisine, DJs, music and more. Bring the family,
friends and some beers and see the real Nakano up
close.
11am – 8pm.
Free Entry. 4-9 Nakano, Nakano-ku.
Nakano nakano-nigiwai.com
EVENTS
OCTOBER 5!–!14
Shimokitazawa Curry Festival
Shimokitazawa will be transformed into a near fan-
tastical curry maze for a week, with an estimated 150
local restaurants setting up curry stations that will
culminate in a competition, the winner coveting the
“Shimokitazawa’s best curry” title. Don’t be intimi-
dated by the number of spots to visit: fliers with
maps will be provided at the station. Additionally,
this year there is even an app to help you map out
your route and collect stamps at each destination.
If you collect enough stamps, you can win stickers
or a t-shirt.
Free entry. Shimokitazawa, Setagaya-ku. Shimokitazawa
curryfes.pw
OCTOBER 25 – NOVEMBER 4
Tokyo Ramen Show
Komazawa Daigaku
OCTOBER 13 – 14 This is it. This is what you’ve
Diwali at Yokohama been waiting for. For a week
starting on October 25, 18 sepa-
Miyashita Park rate vendors will be showcasing
OCTOBER 5!–!8 Diwali, or the Hindu “Festival 18 different ramen from all
The Hokkaido Fair of Lights,” is celebrated every around Japan. Be sure to arrive
autumn all around the world. with an empty stomach because
The recent earthquake in Hokkaido put the north- Not one to be left out, Yokohama this is your chance to finally
ernmost island in Japan in the global news for all the will be hosting the biggest Diwali learn all things-ramen and decide
wrong reasons. The Hokkaido Fair, held in Tokyo’s celebration in Japan right in which style is your favorite. You’ll
Yoyogi Park, celebrates the island’s wonderful Yamashita Park. Thousands are need to come back to the show
people, history, culture and cuisine. Hundreds of expected to celebrate Diwali and for seconds, as the event is split
thousands of visitors flocked to the event last year Indian culture in general — there into two halves, the latter half of
so expect a full crowd enjoying all that Hokkaido has will be food stalls, a full enter- its run stirring up 18 new ramen
Check full event listings to offer (including its delicious drinkies). It’s also a tainment program, including vendors. It’s the perfect autumn
nice way to promote and help Hokkaido in times of Bollywood-style dancing and a outing.
on our Events page hardship and dismay. variety of attractions.
online. 10am – 9pm (exceptions on website).
10am – 7pm. Free entry. 279, Yamashita- Free entry. Ramen tickets ¥850.
10am!–!7pm. Free Entry. Yoyogi Park, 2-2-3 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku. cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa Komazawa Olympic Park Plaza, 1-1
metropolisjapan.com/ www.hokkai-syokudo.jp/yoyogi/ Motomachi-Chukagai Komazawa Daigaku, Setagaya-ku.
events Harajuku Diwaliyokohama.org Komazawa Daigaku
4
EXHIBITIONS ART PERFORMANCE
SEPTEMBER 22 – NOVEMBER 4 OCTOBER 6!–!JANUARY 20
Tokyo Dome Art Gallery (AaMo) Mori Art Museum Smaller
Ig Nobel Prize Exhibition Exhibitions
The Ig Nobel Prize was created in 1991 to honor Three smaller exhibitions taken from the Mori
scientific achievements that “make people laugh, Art Museum’s permanent collection will run
and then think.” Every year, ten individuals are concurrently with the upcoming “Catastrophe and
awarded prizes, which are given out by genuine the Power of Art” exhibition. Artistic collective Chim OCTOBER 3 – 14
Nobel Laureates at Harvard University. In a Pom joins forces with Makoto Aida to celebrate
world’s first, the Tokyo Dome Art Gallery will be the mythology of crows. Hsu Chia-Wei’s video Dance New Air 2018
exhibiting some of these prizes in collaboration installation delves into political and social history
with Improbable Research magazine, organizers of from multiple angles. Lastly, “Chronicle Kyoto The Dance New Air bi-annual dance festival will
the Ig Nobel Prize. Winning work includes artificial 1990s” explores the city’s artistic explosion just be held once again over two weeks in a number
replacement testicles for neutered dogs and a bra before the new millennium which revolved around of locations around Aoyama. Enjoy dance-related
that turns into a gas mask. Visitors can also try out drag parties and contemporary art, as well as AIDS exhibitions and take advantage of opportunities to
some of the products at a simulator booth. and LGBT education. It’s an eclectic showcase that’s dance with instructors and learn from professionals.
not to be missed. Additionally, there will be performances by dancers
whose styles and expressions will challenge your
Weekdays 12pm – 6pm. Weekends 10am – 6pm. Advance: adult understanding of movement and the art of the body.
¥1,200, junior high students and younger ¥700. At the door: 10am – 10pm. At the door: ¥1,800 adult ¥1,200 students, ¥600 Times and prices vary.
Adult ¥1,400, junior high students and younger ¥900. Tokyo child, ¥1,500 senior. Mori Art Museum, 53F 6−11−1 Roppongi,
Dome Art Gallery, 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo-ku. Korakuen Minato-ku. Roppongi
tokyo-dome.co.jp mori.art.museum dancenewair.tokyo/2018/
SPONSORED MUSIC FILM
OCTOBER 20 – 21 OCTOBER 10 – 11 OCTOBER 6
Shibuya Music Scramble Bokanté at Blue Note Forest Movie Festival
When you hear ‘street festival’ you would be for- The leader of three-time Grammy-Award winning Combine your love for old-school outdoor cinemas
given for thinking more of Rio de Janeiro than Japan jazz and funk collective Snarky Puppy is in Tokyo with forest bathing, right before it gets too cold to
but this month, Shibuya showcases its own unique with his new project, Bokanté. Bokanté is an inter- spend a night out in the woods. The Forest Movie
take on a street music festival—Shibuya Music national music ensemble that creates music that Festival is an all-nighter event, starting in the after-
Scramble. The main event of the festival is the reflects the group’s background (bokanté means noon and ending just before dawn. Set in a Tochigi
Shibuya Diversity Session, held on Sunday October “exchange” in Creole) in diversity and geography forest, visitors can watch much-loved Japanese fims
21, celebrating the variety and vitality of Shibuya’s (the eight musicians come from four different as well as enjoying an incredible view of the stars.
top musicians. The festival’s aim is to bring together continents). From “Zeppelin-esque blues stomp to The Japanese films on offer include the incredibly
a diverse range of genres, generations and sounds. folkloric Caribbean kaladja,” the group will leave moving 5-centimeters Per Second (which some say is
Organizers aim to unite visitors and residents alike you reflecting on the global community and the the original groundbreaking slice-of-life, pre-Your
with a wide variety of music in Shibuya’s biggest struggles faced by many—but most importantly, on Name).
city-wide music festival. how good the music can be when there is unity..
Wed October 10, open 5:30pm, start 6:30pm. Thurs October 11,
open 8:20pm, start 9pm ¥7,500. Blue Note, Leica Bldg. 6-3-16 2pm – 5am. ¥11,500.
All day. Free. Shibuya Crossing, Shibuya-ku. Minamiaoyama, Minato-ku. Omotesando Twin Ring Motegi, Hikiyama-cho, Haga-gun, Tochigi.
Shibuya www.bluenote.co.jp forest-movie-festival.jp
5
6
NEWS nine percent higher than the 2016 rates. Age-based discounts at university in Kyoto
This follows a shockingly underrated trend Hanazono University in Kyoto has announced
The
as abuse (and reporting) have increased for that it will be offering a scholarship that
the 27th year straight. They are yet to release corresponds with the recipient’s age starting
abuse-related child death tolls during this from 50 percent off for 50-year-olds, 60
period, but in 2016 there were 77 such deaths. percent for those in their 60s (and so on)
Small
The ministry is just now seeking to expand its and even 100 percent off for centenarians.
scope and power by working with municipal The offer seems to be an attempt at boosting
One million yen in the hands of three governments as well as child consultation enrollment numbers, an almost desperate
confused individuals centers to prevent abuse. measure to address population (and profit)
Print
There is quite a bit of confusion in the small decline. But if certain highly-appointed
town of Hokota, Ibaraki. An unknown woman Japan’s Olympics Committee head turns to businessmen took this offer, they may
drove up to a house and was met at the door daylight savings to save 2020 Olympics actually learn that their stubborn insistence
by a 28-year-old man. She was expecting an Yoshiro Mori, the head of the 2020 Olympics of owning their younger colleagues’ time and
older woman, but assumed he was the son of local organizing committee, has stated that lives has something to do with the population
said woman and handed him ¥1 million tucked daylight savings would be favorable for decline.
in an envelope, asking him to give the cash to the Olympics: if daylight savings time were
his mother. The man had never seen or heard implemented, the sports events would be
of this woman but assumed she was his held in cooler temperatures. He has proposed
mother’s friend and accepted the cash. The the change to the government, a move that
mother knows neither the woman nor the seems to satirize the outrageousness of Abe’s
reason she would be given such funds. She fallacious claims that August is the perfect
eventually turned the cash over to local police. time for athletic sports in Tokyo.
Osaka tourism crippled by typhoon Voice actresses applying for popular anime
The typhoon that hit Osaka in September required to list breast size, but not level of
continues to take a toll as it has heavily education
impacted the tourism industry. Immediately The hugely successful anime “Kemono
after the typhoon, hotel and restaurant Friends” has raised eyebrows with its First driverless taxi trial in Tokyo successful
reservations for weeks ahead were cancelled application form for voice actors for its At the end of August through to the
and the number of visitors to Osaka Castle second season. The form, which has been beginning of September, taxi company
and other tour sites hovered at around half photographed and attached to various Hinomaru Kotsu partnered with
the daily average. This comes as no surprise local social network sites, shows physical autonomous-driving tech company ZMP
as it has taken a long time to repair the measurements such as bust, waist and for Tokyo’s first driverless taxi test with
airport, with only 10 percent of international hip sizes as mandatory information — but a car running between Otemachi and
Keeping you flights running at its lowest point. does not require level of education. This is
not usually a requirement for voice actors,
Roppongi. The car only did four runs each
day. While they did not take part in driving,
up-to-date with a Rates of child abuse cases increase in fiscal
year 2017 — again
but perhaps the production crew have
“discovered” that breast size affects acoustics
a technician and driver were sitting ready
to take over in case of any incidents. The
run-down from the The Health Ministry has just announced that or that certain-sized breasts provide a much- test was considered successful, with the
the number of child abuse cases in Japan needed distraction from their deplorable lack earliest target release of these vehicles
Japanese headlines. has increased in the 2017 fiscal year, a whole of female company and morals. being announced for 2021.
SPE
10%
CIA
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FFE
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7
Movies Skyscraper
Cross Die Hard
with Towering
By Don Morton
Inferno and
use a lot of duct
tape. An ex-FBI
agent (Dwayne
Johnson) now
doing really-really-tall-building security work,
has to deal with a fire in a 1200-meter Chinese
building, the generic villains that started it,
and being framed for it. And oh yes, his family
is trapped in the building, but you saw that
coming. It’s mostly Johnson acrobatically
hanging off things, shooting, fighting and stuff
at insane heights. Yes, it’s idiotic, but the char-
ismatic action star makes it mostly watchable
(for some) in an overstimulated, popcorny
way. Could’ve used some humor.
(102 min, Sep 21)
A Quiet Place
John Krasinski
FEATURE
nicely enhances
his directorial
career with this
Crazy Rich Asians
tight, minimalist
creature feature
for thinking people. In a post-apocalyptic near
Crazy good future, Earth has been invaded by these blind
bug monsters that nevertheless hear very, very
well. The slightest sound brings them out of
W
the woods to eat you. Story has a family of four
trying to live normal lives under this constant
hile the romantic comedy ing more), a New York Asian-American, threat. The acting is tops. Krasinski casts
has pretty much been beat- agreeing to accompany her intended, himself and wife Emily Blunt, along with a pair
en to death, very occasion- Nick (Henry Golding), to his best friend’s of non-annoying kids (Millicent Simmonds &
Noah Jupe). The sound designer is the real star.
ally one comes along that’s a welcome wedding in Singapore. It is not until they Intense, punchy and unpredictable. You will not
Find more surprise. I remember recommending arrive in the nation-state that she learns be bored. (90 min, Sep 28)
reviews Crazy Stupid Love for breathing life into he’s Asia’s most eligible bachelor, with,
online the industry’s most predictable genre. by the way, head-spinning wealth. LBJ
(Maybe the trick is to have the word The local socialites smile at her while Historical film
metropolisjapan.com “crazy” in the title.) This follows the rom- drawing bulls-eyes on her back, but this deals with the
/movies com formula, but while we know where nastiness pales in comparison to the icy career of Lyndon
B. Johnson,
it’s going, we’ve never seen it get there reception from Nick’s mother (Michelle centering on a
in quite this way. And it doesn’t cheat. Yeoh, never hitting a false or stereotyped period from a
The film is getting a lot of ink for being note in a complex role). Loved the zany few years before the Kennedy assassination to
a few years after. There’s nothing earth-shat-
written, directed, produced and acted riffs by comedic actress Awkwafina. tering going on here, politically or cinemati-
in by only Asians. Like an Asian Black Well-paced if a bit overcrowded, airy cally, but it’s well made and beautifully acted
Panther. That’s fine, I guess, but ethnic but thoughtful, hilarious but grounded, (Woody Harrelson milks the colorful lead role
with great gusto, in almost comically heavy
plaudits aside, it’s simply a great two and highly relatable. The emotions are prosthetics). Bottom line: if you were really
hours at the movies. real; I laughed, I cried. Hell, I’d see it hungering for a hagiographic biopic on the
The fish-out-of-water plot has Rachel again just for the street food montages. 36th president, Rob Reiner’s movie fills the bill.
I was entertained and educated if not exactly
(Constance Wu, of whom we will be see- (120 min, from September 28) stirred. Needless to say, it resonates today.
(98 min, Oct 6)
All I See Is You Death Wish I Kill Giants
A woman (Blake Note to Bruce
Lively) blind Willis: Your A troubled teen
since a childhood action hero escapes into
car accident sell-by date may an alternate
lives with her have expired Dungeons
loving, support- years ago, but and Dragons-
ive husband (Jason Clarke). They’re happy you didn’t have to stoop to this torture-porn tinted reality where she can deal with her ugly
until she undergoes surgery to restore her remake of Charles Bronson’s iconic 1974 troubles at school and home as per the film’s
sight, and then it all falls apart. This snore- revenge movie. Directed by Eli friggin’ Roth, title. The concept is as old as The Wizard of Oz,
fest represents a nadir for Marc Forster, who no less. Once the home invasion that killed but rarely has it been so relatable. Zoe Saldana’s
makes as many turkeys (World War Z) as he Bruce’s wife is out of the way, this NRA wet her school psychiatrist and Imogen Poots her
does hits (Monster’s Ball). The adjectives: dream is little more than a slog through one sister and guardian. But this movie belongs to
Crazy Rich Asians:
maudlin, glacially paced, soapy, nonsensical, thoughtlessly ultraviolent, poorly choreo- a note-perfect young Madison Wolfe in the lead
Photo by Sanja Bucko. Skyscraper: opaque, pretentious, ludicrous and needlessly graphed gunfight after another. Little attempt role. A star turn. This cathartic feature debut of
Photo by Kimberley French. A Quiet enigmatic. All smothered in arty, visual hyper- is made to examine the resurgent issue of vio- Denmark’s Anders Walter, scripted by Joe Kelly
Place: Photo by Jonny Cournoyer. LBJ:
stylistics and camera tricks. I can’t remember lent vigilantism (armed teachers?). And Bruce, based on his own award-winning graphic novel,
Photo by Sam Emerson. Death Wish:
Photo by Takashi Seida. All I See Is You: being this bored recently by a movie. (109 min, while you’re cool and all, you’re no Charles achieves what the saccharine A Wrinkle in Time
Photo by Roland Neveu. Sep 28) Bronson. (107 min, Oct 19) may have been aiming for. (106 min, Oct 12)
8
THE SMALL SCREEN EIGA
Dark Tourist Usuke Boys
An irrelevant experience By Rob Schwartz
By Caroline Perrine
N T
etflix show “Dark Tourist,” hosted by New Zea- his charming but somewhat melodramatic work
land journalist David Farrier, has recently been focuses on the Japanese winemaking industry and
in the spotlight for its episode on Japan. In par- a great love for the grape, which has taken hold in Usuke Boys
ticular, the segment on Fukushima offended and worried this country. The film, based on an award-winning nonfic- 102 Minutes
the prefectural government, which announced that it is tion book of the same name by Kaori Kawai (published in In theaters from
reviewing the episode and considering taking legal action 2010), follows the efforts of several people trying to make October 20
against Netflix. high quality wine in Japan. It tells much the same story
The majority of the show’s 41 minutes covered a Fuku- as the book, with some dramatic license. Okamura (Dai
shima tour led by a local guide, followed by rushed segments Watanabe), Shiroyama (Masayuki Deai), Kamimura (Yuka
on Aokigahara (also known as Japan’s “suicide forest”) and Takeshima), Takayama (Kenta Uchino) and Itoh (Satoshi
Gunkanjima (an abandoned mining island off Nagasaki). Judai) meet regularly at a group for wine aficionados. After
The latter segments were rather nondescript, but the Fu- much denigrating of Japanese wine they encounter Kikyo-
kushima tour made a strong impression. It begins with the gahara Merlot, which is produced in Japan by Usuke Asai
tour guide explaining to the tourists that anything about .20 (Isao Hashizume). The group is so taken with the Merlot
on the Geiger counter made him uncomfortable, without that they change their lives: Okamura dumps his job and
contextualizing this number. The tourists all check their rents land to raise grapes, enlisting the help of Itoh and
counters — they’re safe. But the closer they drive toward other college chums; Shiroyama takes land at the farm
the powerplant, the higher the numbers go. The mood is owned by his wife’s family to start cultivating the same
set almost entirely by the rapid increase in beeping from grapes; and Takayama fights off his parent’s objection and
the busload of geiger counters. uses his family’s land to do the same. They all take their
The first stop is a deserted town, where Farrier notes that cues from Asai and implement his methods to try to make
some of his companions are wearing masks"—"the highly great wine.
contaminated dust coats everything in a light brown layer. Dai Watanabe is the son of celebrated Japanese actor
The bus then drives along a no-stop road where Farrier Ken Watanabe and leads the ensemble cast who are quite
asks to get off and explore an abandoned arcade. They have talented. Despite being based on true events, however, the
a look at contaminated topsoil storage; have a meal at a story is rendered overwrought and mawkish (a trend that
restaurant in which the food is sourced from Fukushima; plagues Japanese film today). This piece has all the tropes
and continue driving deeper into the disaster site, Geiger typical to Japanese films: deeply passionate youngsters
counters beeping faster and faster until the group demands determined to make it, a wise elder teaching them, a death
that the bus turns around. and ultimate satisfaction. The cast works well together but
Several factors were strategically highlighted to lead the total seems less than the sum of the parts.
viewers to feel a range of negative emotions about Fuku-
In Memoriam: Kiki Kirin
shima. The first is the inescapable and inevitable buildup
of the beeping from the Geiger counters. The second is As we went to press we heard
the coverage of Farrier’s fellow tourists, whose reactions that legendary Japanese actress
Kiki Kirin has passed away
are given more screen-time than they deserve. The last is
at age 75. She was a brilliant
the deceptively expert narration by Farrier, whose dryness and refined actress who had
might lead you to think he’s without agenda while he plies a late career resurgence with
the award-winning director
you with partisan information and the most dramatic of
Hirokazu Koreeda. Kirin studied
facts he’s heard on the tour. at Bungaku-za and first appeared
The show is predictable. It adopts the most subversive of on screen in 1964 under the name
Yuki Chiho. She was popular
bias techniques to get exactly what is wanted: more press in 1970s television dramas and
and more eyeballs. It successfully puts itself in the spotlight later in her career worked with
without considering the effect it will have on the places directors Joji Matsuoka (in Tokyo
Tower) and Koreeda. Kirin was a
it visits, of which the Fukushima Prefecture government centerpiece of the latter’s 2008
rightly has reason to be worried about. It makes minimal work Still Walking and had a
mention of the recovery efforts or ex-residents’ efforts to crucial role in Shoplifters, which
took the Palme D’Or (top prize) at
move on. The show promotes uninformed, insensitive and the Cannes Film Festival this year.
parasitic tourism, which as a globalised society we should Kirin won the Japan Academy
be stepping away from. Watch this show only as an educa- award for Best Actress multiple
times and was considered one of
tional piece on what not to fall for in journalistic reporting. the most talented actresses of
her generation. She will be dearly
Right: New Zealand journalist David Farrier in Fukushima. missed.
9
MUSIC
Songs From The Self
Soulful city sounds from RGL
By Brian Durr
(released in 2017 and 2018 respectively) were completed. The 1 Thing EP released in 2017
Both introduced RGL’s music to international audiences that helped introduce RGL’s music
to an international audience.
and were very well received on digital platforms, but it was You can listen to RGL’s music
vinyl sales that helped Iguchi to amass a following from on Soundcloud and Bandcamp
the underground electronic music scene.
soundcloud.com/rgl96
Standout “Wade,” off the 1 Thing EP, is a microcosm of
RGL’s gelatinous sound: it perfectly combines hip hop, rglmusic.bandcamp.com
house and breakbeat elements into a killer cut of modern
club music.
RGL’s versatility shines through on the Machine Love
EP, especially with “LinnQ,” which makes excellent use
of classic Linn Drum kit percussion.
RGL counts himself a member of the Cosmopolyphonic
crew, a tight-knit Tokyo collective of local artists whose
ranks include Submerse, RLP, Fujimoto Tetsuro and Tidal.
Submerse, RLP and Fujimoto Tetsuro are all excellent,
internationally-known producers, while Tidal runs a record
label called 4x0.2 sss. Together they collaborate to produce
Upcoming
A
music and host events with like-minded international DJs—
s RGL, Yusuke Iguchi (who works for a musi- they even go on relaxing road trips to onsen destinations.
Album
cal instrument manufacturer) has been crafting Although he has yet to perform outside of Japan, RGL
some of the most enjoyable and well-produced Releases
electronic music to come out of Tokyo. RGL creates a
sonic melange that incorporates boogie, hip hop and house,
devoid of the overtly-intellectual baggage that can weigh “I don’t try to
down some modern electronic music. Soulful, jazzy and limit myself into a
funky enough to appeal to an audience solely concerned
with grooving, his music has a forward-thinking finesse
particular genre or
and lo-fi edge that garners praise from the type of music style but instead try
obsessives who listen to the details between the cracks. to make my music
Growing up on album-oriented rock (AOR), R&B and a sound like me.”
steady stream of J-Wave 81.3FM broadcasts (via his older
brother), Iguchi discovered US and Japanese hip-hop on Rabit — Life After Death
(Halcyon Veil)
his own during junior high school. It would prove a life-
time influence. Fast forward to Iguchi getting his hands would love to bring his burgeoning live performances to Highly anticipated third album
from the enigmatic and cryptic
on a copy of Sony’s Acid software in college: he was off an international audience. Houston producer.
and running, jumping straight into producing original On the horizon, RGL plans to launch his own cassette
sample-based music. tape label by the end of 2018, with two projects already Marie Davidson — Working Class
Woman
The omnipresent and everlasting influence of the late, nearing completion. Upcoming music of his own features The Canadian artist’s fourth
great J Dilla’s Master Class productions has proven a con- diverse collaborations with artists such as Sauce81, Pee.J album of EBM-leaning modern
tinual influence on Iguchi’s style. The loose, jazzy feel of Anderson, Daisuke Kondo and Meowsn. His music is in a pop.
Dilla’s legendary drum tracks have had an impact on a constant state of flux and underscores his appreciation for Lee ‘Scratch’ Perry — The Black
myriad of producers from a variety of genres over the last the craft. “My music is always trial and error as to what Album (Upsetter)
two decades, notably Iguchi himself. kind of sound to make next,” says Iguchi. “I love to make Brand new material from the dub
reggae legend.
The breakthrough in Iguchi’s musical career came in the songs and don’t think I will ever tire of learning diverse
form of a propositional message via Twitter from London- compositional techniques through hardware processing Factory Floor — A Soundtrack
based record label Breaker Breaker, which was known for and mixing in various DAWs (digital audio workstations). for a Film (H/O/D Records)
The post-industrial band’s original
releasing an EP by lo-fi house hero Ross From Friends. I don’t try to limit myself into a particular genre or style score for the classic 1927 film
After brief negotiations, the 1 Thing EP and Machine Love EP but instead try to make my music sound like me.” Metropolis.
10FOOD
Toraya
Shokudo
Curry
Flavors of India in Ogikubo
By Yukari Sakamoto
W
hen you’re looking for a good curry, there
are several things to consider. The first ques-
tion is, of course, Japanese-style or Indian? If
Indian, then from what region? Some days I crave naan,
Toraya Shokudo others I crave dosa—that will determine my destination.
at Tobiuo Kitchen Otherwise, recommendations from friends and reliable
3-18-6 Nishiogikubo-Kita, sources, like Paul Nadasdy’s ace website justinmycurry.
Suginami-ku
com, are helpful. Recently, one new curry shop caught
Tel: 03-6454-7745 my eye this way. After popping up on my Twitter feed,
Toraya Shokudo’s colorful presentations and positive
Website: toraya.club
Instagram: torayashokudou_2 reviews were just too hard to resist — especially since
Twitter: toraya_syokudo it was covered by the food magazine dancyu, which has
never led me astray.
Nishi-Ogikubo
The restaurant is a few minutes’ walk from the north
exit of Nishi-Ogikubo Station. I was delightfully surprised
to learn that the first customer of the day gets to pick
how the medu vadu (savory donut) is seasoned, either with
fennel or cumin seeds. I opted for cumin.
As the restaurant was quiet that day, I had a chance to
hear the story behind the establishment. Toraya Shokudo
opened this February, after an invitation from the own-
ers of Tobiuo Kitchen, a dinner-only affair, who were
not using their restaurant space during lunch service.
Tobiuo Kitchen serves Sri Lankan cuisine, which was
convenient as there would be no conflict between the
aromatic spices used for each respective menu. Currently,
Toraya Shokudo offers lunch five days a week and dinner
about four or five times a week. The monthly calendar is
posted on its Twitter site.
At lunchtime, the South Indian thali meal is a ¥1,200
vegetarian set. Served on a banana-leaf-shaped plate,
the meal consists of a wholesome twelve components.
Everything on the plate, aside from the medu vadu, can
be replenished, so essentially, it’s an all-you-can-eat meal.
I commented that there are not many curry restaurants
serving a variety of small bites like this. The owners replied
that their inspiration comes from Omori’s well-known
and respected curry restaurant Kerala no Kaze.
Yukari Sakamoto A map, in Japanese, details the particulars of the lunch
is the author of Food Sake meal: sambar, rasam, achar, chutney, daal, papadam, medu
Tokyo. She has worked as a
sommelier at the Park Hyatt vadu and three daily specials. The day I visited, the three
Tokyo and at Takashimaya. specials were a coconut dish made with kagura namban
While at Takashimaya, she peppers from Nagaoka (in Niigata), spaghetti squash and
was the first non-Japanese to
pass the shochu advisor exam. kuushinsai (Chinese water spinach) made with fried urad
Yukari offers tours to markets dal (a popular lentil), presented in small katori bowls.
in Tokyo. Rice is a big part of some curry meals and it can be
Follow her on Twitter: frustrating to always be served Japanese rice instead of
@YukariSakamoto aromatic imported rice. I had no frustration here as the rice
12TIPS & TRENDS
Insider’s Guide
to Eating In
and Dining Out
There are some interesting shops Visit Yanagi Chaya in Asakusa
in the Asakusa area open for (1-30-6 Asakusa, Taito-ku) for
breakfast. Misojyu (1-7-5 Asakusa, matcha sweets like tiramisu, soft
Taito-ku) is open for onigiri and serve and tea
miso soup, served in a cool artsy
space on the second floor. There Cafe RonRon near Harajuku is a
will be vegan options starting in conveyor belt that brings around
November. small dishes of sweets. The all-
misojyu.jp you-can eat restaurant is ¥1,800
for 40 minutes. Note that it’s very
popular, so plan on standing in line.
cafe-ronron.com
Ginza Sony Park is hosting pop-up
Toraya Café An Stand, serving
sweets with adzuki bean paste.
Stay tuned for the next featured
pop-up cafe.
www.toraya-group.co.jp/toraya-
cafe/en/
Yuji Haraguchi, who has
restaurants and cooking schools
in Kyoto and New York City, will
open his first Tokyo ramen shop in
Kiyosumi Shirakawa. Scheduled
open date is October 8.
Shibuya Stream is a new building
near the station with many Buttermilk from Brooklyn, New
restaurants including Kushitei York, opening in Harajuku will
from Osaka and, for Japanese serve fried chicken and waffles,
cuisine, Maru Bengara and and seasonal American comfort
Donabe Gohan Nakayoshi food. 1-11-11 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
shibuyastream.jp buttermilkchannel-jp.com
Top: served was jasmine, as it pairs better with the vegetarian Tapioca tea shops are bubbling up February Café (1-9-8 Komagata,
The entrance to Toraya Shokudo around the city. TP Tea (Taiwan Taito-Ku) serves coffee and toast
Curry, which is just a few minutes’ dishes. At dinner, however, the rice is basmati, which is
Professional Tea) is opening a new with bread from the famous
walk from the north exit of Nishi- a nicer match for the meat and seafood dishes that are shop at the Maru Building near Pelican Bakery. february.cafe
Ogikubo Station. served in the evening. Tokyo Station.
I was told to think of the banana leaf plate as a canvas jp.tp-tea.com
Left:
The thali lunch set comes with 12 and the components of the meal as different paints that Rocco’s New York-style pizza
separate items. can be mixed together. I was also encouraged to try mixing from Oji has a new branch in a
together some of the dishes, a great idea that other diners more central location, Nishi-
Azabu. Daiyu Bldg., 1-4-10 Nishi-
also enjoyed, creating their own combinations of flavors. Azabu, Minato-ku.
No need to be shy about asking for seconds or even roccosnewyorkstylepizza.com
thirds on any of the dishes that you like — the staff even
encouraged me to take some more rice topped with dal
to round out my seconds. While I was full at the end of
the meal, it felt healthy, perhaps due to the variety of
vegetables and the multitude of flavors.
After lunch, chai is offered for a supplemental fee: ¥200
for a hot chai with milk or ¥300 for a chilled chai made
with soy milk. The hot chai was a great balance of sweet-
ness, spice and creaminess. It was so good I’ve started
making it at home, attempting to reproduce their exact
recipe. It’s nice when inspiration from dining out is so
good it affects how we eat at home. As for making the
complicated thali meal, that is better enjoyed at Toraya
Shokudo.
13FOOD
New Culinary Hotspots
Roppongi Hills Premium Dining Floor and Grand Food Hall
&
Shibuya Stream
By Angeli Rambukpota
T
he Great Burger Stand is one of a multitude of
restaurants that has opened within the newly
erected Shibuya Stream building. Located on the
ground floor, alongside the revitalized Shibuya River, the
restaurant is unmistakably American. From the wooden
cottage decor with faux stuffed deer heads to the huge
American flag billowing in the wind, it seems like this burger
place is yet another American-inspired eatery in Tokyo
Roppongi Hills (i.e. other notable spots include Kua Aina and Hawaiian
Premium Dining Hall
Roppongi Hills 6-10-1 Roppongi,
pancake stores).
Minato-ku What truly stands out, however, is the sense of commu-
roppongihills.com nity here. Old friends chat between the clinks of beer bottles
Unagi Dokoro Korochodo
knocking together, a polyphony complemented further by
West Walk 5f the sound of burger patties sizzling in the kitchen. After
03-3478-5445 I put in my order for a bacon cheeseburger, I sat back and
Lunch
11 am - 3 pm, LO 2:30 pm
observed the groups of people gathered on the patio. From
Dinner work buddies to families with small children, it seemed
I
5 pm - 11 pm, LO 10:30pm like everyone knew each other.
t’s only been a month since Roppongi Hills opened This is the vision that the owner, Atsushi Kurumata,
an array of new restaurants around the complex to BIKiNi SIS sought to realize: creating a vibrant hub for food, friends
celebrate its 15th anniversary. Attracting an estimated West Walk 5f and good times.
03-5770-5230
40 million visitors per year, the retail and culinary hub is Lunch
The most noticeable part of The Great Burger Stand’s
adding even more eateries for visitors with the recently Weekday 11 am -LO 3pm burgers is, perhaps, the sensationally crispy buns. Despite
renovated Premium Dining Floor and Grand Food Hall. Dinner the sauce soaking into the bread as I ate, the bun remained
5pm - 11pm, LO 10pm
Situated on the complex’s 5th floor and on its B2 level, the Saturday and Sunday
crunchy until the last bite. Surprisingly, the patty was not
two-part renovation is making space for some of the most 11 am - 11 pm, LO 10pm as dense as one would expect from a hefty dish, and it
decadent eateries you’ll probably ever witness. Stroll down carried a certain sweetness from the trickling meat juice.
the polished mahogany floors and at every turn you’ll find The Great Burger Stand
The mustard cut through the dish and gave it a clean taste
yourself trying something completely new. Shibuya Stream, 3-21-3, with each bite. Combined with the cheddar cheese and
At Unagi Dokoro Kurochodo, for instance, you can taste Shibuya-ku thick slice of bacon, the burger made for a satisfying meal
11am - 11pm, L.O. 10:30 pm
authentic, natural unagi (eel). Unlike most unagi places which shibuyastream.jp
at the end of a long day.
rely on the Kanto method of steaming eel, this restaurant Stop by The Great Burger Stand to enjoy a hearty meal
relies on the Kansai method of charcoal grilling in which the on an outdoor patio"—"a call back to fleeting summer days
eel doesn’t necessary melt in your mouth, but rather, has a bite spent hanging out with friends around an open grill.
to it that harmonizes well with the rich, savory sauce. If you
ask nicely, you may even be able to hold the flayed unagi on
the cooking rod, which proved to be heavier than it seemed.
Right across the hall, BIKiNi SIS offers a totally differ-
ent atmosphere. This Spanish eatery doesn’t immediately
tempt you with promises of familiar dishes such as paella
and ajillo — instead, it nudges you into trying culinary pair-
ings that you never knew existed. Dishes include breaded
lamb chops fried and paired with mashed white cauliflower
and Iberico-ham-wrapped scallops resting on a bed of fresh
parsley puree. This is an exciting venture that takes Spanish
cuisine to new heights.
It’s well worth spending a night on the town being dazzled
by the plethora of eateries offered in the newly refurbished
Roppongi Hills Premium Dining Floor (5F) and Grand Food
Hall (B2F). You’ll never know what you might end up dis-
covering.
14NEW MENU
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By Rosie Ball
T
here’s a new denim kid on the block
in Kojima. For those of you whom
aren’t hip to the reputation of
Okayama Prefecture — this small region is
often referred to as ‘The Birthplace of Denim,’
and for good reason. A hub for denimheads
from all around the world, Kojima has always
emphasized excellent craftsmanship and high
quality. Today, it sees a huge number of facto-
ries, often using both old-fashioned and mod-
ern looms to create vintage-inspired selvedge
denim. JAPAN BLUE Co. LTD, the company
behind cult brands Japan Blue Jeans and Mo-
motaro Jeans, is at the forefront of this wave.
16While much of the product coming out of Okayama Pre-
fecture and JAPAN BLUE has been male-oriented, JAPAN
BLUE’s latest venture URVIN sees a logical shift towards
an incredibly lucrative market"—"young women.
“Until now, the ladies line for JBJ was simply an extension
of the men’s selection, offering vintage and selvedge denim
for women. However with the rise in demand for trendy
jeans, we realized that we had to create a separate brand
(URVIN) because we couldn’t fit them into our pre-existing Like a good
brands JBJ and MJ,” Asami Muroyama, a representative quality
for JAPAN BLUE explains. “We want to create beautiful,
feminine designs that fuses the new with the old.”
blazer or
It feels like an important shift for Kojima, one that’s trench coat,
bound to give Okayama denim a real seat at the table in a piece of
the world of women’s fashion. As support for sustainably URVIN can
manufactured, durable clothing filters into everyday wo-
menswear, mass-produced megabrands (you know the
be loved for
ones) are having their judgment day. It’s becoming harder years.
to ignore the fact that the true price of fast fashion goes far
beyond what’s on the tag. Keeping up with trends is one
thing, but is it enough to save on a pair of jeans if they’ll
only need to be tossed out after just one season? Okayama
denim, including URVIN, represents a change of pace the
fashion world has been longing for.
For these reasons it’s no wonder Japanese design is more
appealing than ever. The qualities it’s famous for—great
fabrics, strong silhouettes, attention to fine detail and a fo-
cus on customer needs rather than making huge profit—are
epitomized in URVIN. “We pride ourselves on our products
and choices, and hope that our products are considered
by those who seek high quality and comfortable jeans,”
says Muroyama. Made in lush, rich colors, each piece of
soft denim is beautifully balanced; strikingly stylish, yet
subdued enough to wear comfortably every day. Perhaps
rather than ‘trendy’ we should call them a ‘trend staple,’
since, like a good quality blazer or trench coat, a piece of
URVIN can be loved for years.
Still, the conscious dresser should realize that afford-
able fast fashion and independent labels are both vital
components of the fashion ecosystem. As JAPAN BLUE
reminds us, condemning trend-churning fashion conglom-
erates would mean disregarding the way they democratized
fashion. “We believe that the achievements fast-fashion
companies have left in spreading the recognition of jeans
has been great. For people who have never worn jeans,
we think that it is a great window to promote cheap jeans
for wearing,” explains Muroyama. As the company puts it,
URVIN denim can and should sit proudly alongside your
other jeans, and is versatile enough to wear with anything,
from second-hand to high-end.
At long last, ‘The Holy Land of Jeans’ welcomes trend-
focused women’s fashion into the fold. If URVIN’s adorable
wide-leg jeans or denim overalls are anything to go by,
pretty soon Kojima’s infamous ‘Jeans Street’ might also
see an influx of Instagram fashion influencers sauntering
down the sidewalk. Shopping for denim jeans just got a
little less harrowing, ladies.
urvindenim.com
instagram.com/urvin_official/
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The workers of Fukushima Daiichi
By Andrew Deck
Photography by Stephan Jarvis
20Looking out over
Units 2 and 3.
O
ur tour van came to a stop in the pass between reactor Units 2 and 3. The gap, once consumed
by radioactive rubble, had been cleared several months before our visit to the Fukushima Daiichi
plant in June 2018. “You’ll have 10 minutes outside before we move onto the next location,” our
guide announced to the vehicle, a portable Geiger counter in hand. We buckled our construction helmets,
tightened the strings of our face masks and stepped out onto the open road. The Pacific coast was no more
than 200 meters in front of us and on either side were nuclear reactor buildings. While Unit 2 was weathered
but structurally intact, Unit 3 showed visible scars from the explosion it had suffered seven years earlier,
marked by protruding support beams and fractured cement walls.
21A visit to this Since our day began at the edge of the exclusion zone public. These tours are an effort to increase transparency
in Tomioka, Fukushima, we had passed through half a and educate the public on the plant’s status. They are also
part of the plant dozen security checkpoints and received a full-body scan an effort to build goodwill for a company that is still ma-
came with the to measure internal radiation, a baseline reading for later ligned by many for its culpability in the disaster. Three
understanding comparison. Now, at the power plant, facing the shells of retired TEPCO executives, Ichiro Takekuro, Sakae Muto
that meters away two nuclear meltdowns, our observation time was further and former chairman Tsunehisa Katsumata, are currently
regulated to minimize exposure. A visit to this part of the on trial for “professional negligence resulting in death and
were structures plant came with the understanding that just steps away
housing melted were structures housing melted nuclear debris, the epi-
nuclear debris, centers of one of the largest nuclear disasters in history.
the epicenters of There were no hazmat suits or gas masks, the biohaz-
ard uniform most would imagine for this portion of tour.
one of the largest Pants and a long-sleeved shirt was the required outfit, a
nuclear disasters protective layer augmented by gloves, a helmet and what
in history. could pass as a kafunsho (hay fever) mask. We were directed
to tuck our pant legs into four layers of neon blue socks,
which we slid into black ankle-cut rain boots. A personal
Geiger counter was placed in the chest pocket of our mesh
vests. It would set off an alarm when it reached the tour’s
daily allowance for radiation exposure, 100 microsieverts,
Above: equivalent to a roundtrip flight between Narita and JFK. injury,” a criminal charge for ignoring internal reports that
A tour of the Unit 5 containment
vessel, which closely resembles In our meticulously planned day-long tour, these counters Fukushima Daiichi was at risk from a debilitating tsunami
those in reactors that suffered wouldn’t reach more than 30 microsieverts. wave. The indictment was brought by a civilian judiciary
meltdowns. The optics of this moment, standing in plain clothes next panel, overruling prosecutors who had twice declined to
Right: to two nuclear reactors, were not lost on Tokyo Electric press charges. The criminal trial follows a string of civil
The Metropolis team dons “regular Power Company (TEPCO), which operates Fukushima suits, including a ruling by a Tokyo court last year that
uniform” gear before embarking Daiichi and facilitated Metropolis’ tour of the 3.5km² power ordered TEPCO to pay ¥11 billion (100 million USD) in
on a tour of 1F.
station, known internally as 1F. Our guide remarked that damages to the residents of Minamisoma, Fukushima.
Opposite page, top right: they often bring visitors to this spot. Safely getting up As part of these tours, TEPCO is promoting what they
1F workers dressed in anorak close to one of the reactors, even if only for 10 minutes, is consider major improvements to working conditions on the
bodysuits walk down Sakura Dori.
a gesture they hope will show conditions at the plant have plant. Currently 96 percent of 1F can be accessed with the
Opposite page, bottom right: improved substantially since the 2011 disaster. “regular uniform” we wore during our tour. One of the most
Workers return helmets to a In the past year, TEPCO has significantly increased advertised portions of the plant is Sakura Dori, a roadway at
staging area at the edge of 1F.
tours of the power station for journalists and the general the edge of 1F that has been specially maintained in order
22You can also read
