JOHANNESBURG SINGAPORE MIAMI - SANTIAGO MELBOURNE LOCALS LEAD THE WAY - By Sarah Khan
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YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US MARCH | APRIL 2018
LOCALS LEAD THE WAY JOHANNESBURG
SANTIAGO SINGAPORE
MELBOURNE MIAMI
Johannesburg-based
fashion designer
Laduma Ngxokolo.
+ TOKYO RAMEN 101 • CROWD-FREE ROME • URBAN SPAS
JOHANNESBURG
MELBOURNE
PHOTO CREDIT
Clockwise from top left: The MaXhosa by Laduma
boutique at Work Shop New Town, Miami Mountain,
Santiago’s Museum of Fashion, Singapore’s Projec-
tor Cinema, and Melbourne’s City Wine Shop.
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MY
TOWN
MIAMI
CULTURE MAKERS IN SOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST
SOPHISTICATED CITIES SHARE THEIR HOMETOWN PICKS.
If you want to really know a place, ask a local where to
go – especially a local with great taste. Fashion designers,
chefs, writers, and art-world denizens take creative cues
from their urban surroundings, so they’re in tune with
the best their towns have to offer. We tapped some of the
coolest people in five of our favorite cities to find out
what not to miss next time we visit.
SANTIAGO
SINGAPORE
LAURYN ISHAK, (MELBOURNE) REBECCA NEWMAN
(JOHANNESBURG) CLARA TUMA, (MIAIMI) VANESSA ROGERS,
PHOTO CREDIT
(SINGAPORE)
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JOHANNESBURG
“JOBURG IS AN EXAMPLE OF WHAT I DO,
LADUMA NGXOKOLO, TRYING TO FUSE MY HERITAGE
FASHION DESIGNER AND SPIN IT OFF IN A MODERN WAY THAT
PEOPLE CAN WEAR EVERY DAY.”
H
E’S SOMETHING OF A “Joburg is an example of what that, much like Rio de Janeiro,
legend in South Africa I do, trying to fuse my heritage Johannesburg has dangerous
for his bold-patterned and spin it off in a modern way, zones. Stick to safe areas and use
knitwear inspired by his Xhosa so that people can wear it every car services to move around the
heritage, but Laduma Ngxokolo’s day,” Ngxokolo says. “Joburg has city.) “Comedy clubs, exhibitions,
designs for his MaXhosa by that, and also has a global cul- markets, and the creatives that
Laduma line have a global follow- tural presence mixed with it.” live around the area make it a
ing as well. He was heralded as super-interesting place. I like the
African Fashion International’s CREATIVE OASIS “The Ma- food and atmosphere at Pata
Emerging Designer of the Year boneng Precinct is a spot I like Pata, and the steak and decor at
in 2014, Vogue Italia showcased because of the diversity that’s Che Argentine Grill.”
his work at the Palazzo Morando there, and also the grungy design
in Milan in 2015, and Beyoncé and the events that happen within INSPIRED OUTING “For inspi-
has featured his designs on her that area,” Ngxokolo says. This ration, I often go to the Wits
website. The designer moved his revitalized stretch of the gritty city Art Museum,” Ngxokolo says.
business to Johannesburg from core has become a landing spot “They’ve got quite a big collection
CLARA TUMA
his hometown in Port Elizabeth for Joburg’s creatively inclined of Xhosa beadwork,” he adds,
two years ago to grow his brand. residents. (Visitors should note referring to the traditional designs
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of the Xhosa people, one of South African designers. “It’s a great
Africa’s largest cultural groups. creative space for us to be in,”
he says. “We’re a one-stop shop
CONTEMPORARY ART “I go to for buying locally produced
the FNB Joburg Art Fair every products – there’s Family Tree,
season,” Ngxokolo says of Africa’s a streetwear brand created by
leading art exhibition, held at hip-hop artist Cassper Nyovest,
the Sandton Convention Centre and Era, a watch store by DJ
every September and featuring Zinhle. I’m excited about a new
prominent galleries from across barbershop called Legends. And
the continent. “Contemporary two doors away from us is The
artists from Africa and the African Potato Shed, where I have my
diaspora come and exhibit their business meetings. I order the
work.” Ngxokolo keeps an eye out steak and fries – they specialize
for the work of Tony Gum – whom in potatoes.”
Vogue once called “the coolest girl
in Cape Town” – and Athi-Patra STAY In a tony area that’s home
Ruga, whose art has been shown to tycoons and diplomats, the
everywhere from New York to Saxon Hotel, Villas, and Spa
London to Dubai. has become a retreat for global
A-listers – think Oprah Winfrey
DESIGNER TO WATCH “I like an and the Clintons – as well as
up-and-coming designer called Joburg’s movers and shakers, who
Rich Mnisi. He has a masculine congregate at its restaurants. The
style that’s unisex and also fused 53-suite hotel’s decor skews mod-
with a little bit of African touch,” ern African, and South Africa’s top
Ngxokolo says. “I think that’s what chef, Luke Dale-Roberts, opened
makes him appealing – he’s differ- its fine-dining restaurant. Doubles
ent to the others. He has a studio from $590, including sparkling
in Joburg.” Fans can shop for his wine on arrival, breakfast
designs at Woolworths stores or daily, complimentary minibar and
at Spree.co.za; for custom pieces, snacks, and one Rasul Chamber
the designer makes house calls. spa treatment per couple.
JAZZ AND STREETWEAR “The CRUISE AmaWaterways’ 17-
Orbit is a lifestyle jazz bar where day journey through East Africa
you can buy CDs, drink, listen includes time in Johannesburg
to live music, and interact. It’s in before and after a four-day game-
Braamfontein, which has a young viewing sailing on the Chobe
streetwear culture.” River aboard the 28-passenger
Zambezi Queen. Time at Victoria
SOUTH AFRICAN DESIGN You Falls and on safari in Tanzania and
can browse Ngxokolo’s distinc- Botswana rounds out the itiner-
tive designs at his boutique in ary. Departures: Multiple dates,
Work Shop New Town, a sleek March 11 through November 18;
retail center carrying South from $15,995. – SARAH KHAN
Clockwise from top: A Saturday-night party in Maboneng,
a Maboneng street scene, and Mandela smiling over the
Braamfontein neighborhood. Opposite: The Potato Shed.
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instance. Although he’s done very Melbourne: understated,
MELBOURNE
stints at Noma in Copenhagen just going about what they do
and Spain’s El Celler de Can quietly without the fanfare.”
Roca – even a sabbatical in
Nashville along the way – Mel- CHINATOWN MEANDERINGS
bourne lured him back: “It’s got “We have a pretty epic China-
a nice understated energy to it; town. I like the dumplings at
it’s not flashy like other cities,” Shanghai Street, and Longsong
he says. “It’s got an under- is a good place for wine and
ground electricity.” cocktails. But just outside
Chinatown, on the same street,
RESTAURANT OF CHOICE is the most amazing pasta
When Turner gets time away bar called Tipo 00. They do
from his own establishment, amazing pasta and wine with
he typically spends it eating at minimal intervention.”
other chefs’ restaurants. “At the
moment, I tend to go to a place COFFEE BREAK “Coffee –
called Embla in the Central where do you start? Something
Business District, a really cool that Melbourne’s really good
wine bar. Chef Dave Verheul is at is coffee, and the one I like
killing it,” he says. “Their flavors the most is Patricia Coffee
are amazing; there’s a lot of Brewers in the CBD,” he says.
fire-cooking there.” His current “It’s standing room; otherwise,
favorite is a sour cucumber you can sit in the alley on a milk
dish with dill and feta. “Embla is crate.” Turner is also a fan of the
AARON TURNER,
CHEF AND RESTAURANT OWNER
A
ARON TURNER IS A
musician, a chef, and,
as of last October, the
(MELBOURNE) REBECCA NEWMAN, (AARON TURNER) JULIAN KINGMA
author of Igni: A Restaurant’s
First Year, a retelling of the highs
and lows behind the opening
of his celebrated restaurant in
Geelong, near Melbourne. In a
relaxed, minimalist space, he
finesses adventurous five- and
eight-course tasting menus:
pork belly cooked in fermented
grains, zucchini flowers stuffed
with mussels, or cuttlefish
with celeriac and lemons, for
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“IT’S NOT FLASHY LIKE
OTHER CITIES. IT’S GOT AN
UNDERGROUND ELECTRICITY.”
interior: “Another thing I think in the ecosystem. “It’s nice to go
Melbourne does well is design. hang out and sneak a bottle of
Patricia has clean lines and a wine in.”
Scandinavian, European feel.”
BOOK NOOKS “I like the feel
ROCK ON As a musician, one of and smell of a real bookshop.
the things that first lured Turner You can spend time flicking
to Melbourne from his coastal through titles and immerse
Victoria hometown of Portland yourself in the store.” Some
was its live music scene. “When of Turner’s top picks for a trip
I first moved here, I was playing down literary lane? “Hill of
in bands, and Melbourne had Content or the Paperback
great live-music venues,” he Bookshop – any independent
remembers. “Sadly, they’re all shop selling obscure titles by
disappearing, but a few still hang great authors.”
on.” His favorite? “The coolest
one is The Tote. They’ve stood STAY With a prime location
the test of time. The Tote is prob- overlooking Saint Patrick’s Ca-
ably more for street punk and thedral in the upscale Paris End
up-and-coming bands. Nirvana of Melbourne’s Central Busi-
played one of their first shows in ness District, the Park Hyatt
Australia in this tiny little venue.” Melbourne has 240 spacious
rooms with Italian marble bath-
WINE TIME “City Wine Shop rooms. And it has a soft side
on Spring Street is really good,” too: Dog-loving guests should
Turner says. “They have a lot scan the lobby for Mr Walker, a
of amazing wines by the glass Labrador who welcomes visi-
and bottle. It also acts as a tors as the Park Hyatt’s canine
takeaway bottle shop.” Turner ambassador for Guide Dogs
recommends wines produced Victoria. Doubles from $245,
in Australia’s Adelaide Hills including breakfast daily and a
region: “I recently drank a 2017 $100 dining credit.
Jim Barry assyrtiko from Clare
Valley, South Australia,” he says. CRUISE Plan ahead for a Mel-
“There are a lot of cocktail bars bourne stay and next year’s Aus-
[in Melbourne], but I’m not re- tralia cruising season: Cunard’s
ally a cocktail sort of guy. I just eight-day voyage round-trip from
go to Aussie pubs for a beer.” Melbourne to Tasmania on the
2,068-passenger Queen Elizabeth
THE GRASS IS GREENER includes stops at Adelaide, Kan-
“The Royal Botanic Gardens garoo Island, and the Tasmanian
in Melbourne is amazing,” says town of Hobart. Departure: Febru-
Chinatown eye candy (top) and Embla’s soured cucum-
Turner, who loves learning about ary 10, 2019; from $1,349. bers. Opposite, from left: Patricia Coffee Brewers, Tipo 00
indigenous plants and their roles – SARAH KHAN pasta, and the Royal Botanic Gardens.
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SINGAPORE
the inaugural Deborah Rogers and a couple of resident cats,”
Foundation Writers’ Award for an Teo says.
excerpt from Ponti. These days,
Teo divides her time between SWEET STOP Singaporean
London and Singapore, where cuisine is synonymous with its
she was born and raised. What famous noodles and street food,
does she love about her home- but local desserts with Chinese,
town? “It’s constantly changing, Malay, Indian, English, and French
never staying still,” she says. influences and ingredients such
SHARLENE TEO, LITERARY LION “Singapore has
as fresh coconut, sesame seeds,
pandan leaves, jackfruit, and
AUTHOR great independent bookstores,” bean curd are well worth a try
Teo says. One of her favorites at the city’s many sweet shops.
can be found in the Tiong Bahru “Also in Tiong Bahru, there’s a
neighborhood. “Tiong Bahru bakery called Galicier Pastry,
N
OT MANY FIRST-TIME is basically a gentrified area where you can find old-school
authors start generating of Singapore now, where all Singapore confectionery,” Teo
buzz two years before the millennials hang out.” The says. “Ondeh-ondeh is kind of like
their debut, but 30-year-old neighborhood was home to the a coconut sugary-sweet treat, and
Sharlene Teo’s Singapore-set oldest public housing project nonya kueh is shredded coconut
novel Ponti, out in the UK in April in Singapore and has been wrapped with pandan-infused
and in the U.S. in September, revitalized in recent years with crepe skin. They’re really delicious,
has already earned her com- eclectic shops and businesses and really bad for you.”
parisons to Zadie Smith. Teo is catering to a hip crowd: “There
a PhD student in creative and are loads of cute coffee places, BEST SOUP “Bak kut teh
critical writing at the University secondhand vintage stores, and translates to ‘meat-bone tea,’ but
of East Anglia, but she’s been cool bars,” says Teo. The area’s it’s not as gross as it sounds,”
(SINGAPORE) LAURYN ISHAK
amassing awards at a steady premier bookshop is the beloved Teo says. “It’s spareribs in a rich,
clip: the Booker Prize Founda- BooksActually. “It’s a stalwart peppery soup, and you have it
tion Scholarship and David T.K. in the Singapore literary scene, with rice and fried bread. I like to
Wong Creative Writing Fellow- with a huge collection of poetry, have it with kidneys as well. I know
ship at her university, as well as great independent endeavors, it’s not to everyone’s taste, but
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it’s so good.” Her go-to spot for Singaporean art scene is vibrant,
bak kut teh? “Ng Ah Sio – there’s and it’s evolving at a rapid and
an outlet on Rangoon Road. It’s a exciting rate,” Teo says. “Gillman
“IT’S CONSTANTLY CHANGING, teahouse, and it’s wonderful. You
have a nice, bitter tea to wash it
Barracks has got a bunch of art
galleries, and there are always
NEVER STAYING STILL.” down. The specialty is the soup
and you tiao – fried bread. You just
exhibitions or pop-up events going
on. There’s a lot of support right
dip it in the soup.” now for artists.”
CRAFTY FINDS “When I was DRINKS WITH A VIEW “There
an arts student, I used to go to are some really good rooftop bars:
Bras Basah Complex, a big, yel- A popular one is Smoke &
lowing building that’s near the Mirrors, on the rooftop of the
National Library,” Teo says. She National Gallery Singapore. It’s a
liked to browse the stationery panoramic wine bar where you get
shops and art-supply stores for a good view of Marina Bay Sands
acrylic paints and secondhand and overpriced cocktails.”
books. “It’s a cool old place, kind
of an institution.” STAY The city’s grande dame,
the 1887-built Raffles Singapore
MOVIE MAGIC “The Projector is in the midst of a major redesign
cinema is in a really old building by Alexandra Champalimaud.
in Singapore called the Golden When it reopens in the second
Mile Tower. It’s a cute independent half of 2018, the 115-suite colonial
cinema that has beautiful old- landmark will have several new
school seating; they left it as it suites, revamped restaurants and
was in the seventies. They show bars, and a history gallery featur-
great independent films, including ing pictures and mementos from
Singaporean films. They have the property’s storied past. Room
beanbag chairs too.” rates to be announced; including
an upgrade at the time of book-
ART WALKS Singapore is home ing (if available), a Singapore
to a young but dynamic art scene, Sling on arrival, breakfast daily,
and the 2015 opening of the and a $100 dining credit.
National Gallery Singapore has
catapulted the city into the global CRUISE Spend a few days explor-
spotlight. “The gallery, in the for- ing Singapore before an eight-day
mer city hall and supreme court, is sailing from the city-state to
gigantic and amazing and worth a Phuket, Thailand, via Malaysia
visit – it’s architecturally stunning aboard Star Clippers’ 170-pas-
and has the world’s largest display senger Star Clipper. The small
of modern Southeast Asian art,” four-masted sailing ship stops in
Teo says. “It’s vast, like the British less-touristed Thai locales, such
Museum when you go in – very big as the pristine Butang Islands and
and imposing, with these beautiful Phang Nga Bay, with its green-
columns.” But there are plenty of gumdrop mountains. Departures:
smaller venues where visitors can March 31 and October 27; from
see the work of local talents: “The $1,400. – SARAH KHAN
Clockwise from top left: Gardens by the Bay park, bak kut
teh (soup) at Ng Ah Sio, and The Projector’s box office.
Opposite: BooksActually.
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