ROME welcome you! - ROME CITY GUIDE - Where Rome
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
A UGUS T 2 0 2 0
W HER EROME . C OM ROME CITY GUIDE
®
ROME
IS READY TO
welcome you!
ALL YOU CAN DO
IN THE CITY
SUMMER TIPS ON
LUXURY SHOPPING,
CULTURE AND DINING
GET A TOUR OF THE
BEST DESTINATIONS
IN ITALY
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS
YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
Letter fromINthe
BENVENUTI Staff
ITALIA where
YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION
where
YOUR TRAVEL
M AING
® SINCE 1936®
YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
®
G A COMPANION SINCE 1936® WELCOME TO ITALY
where Milan
Z I N E ®
Letter
Letter from
from the the Staff
Staff M A G A Z I N E
WWW.WHEREROME.COM
M A G A Z I N E
®
As we are sure you are well aware, due to the spread of the Coronavirus, all WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
WWW.WHEREROME.COM
M A G A Z I N E
of
As Italy,
we areincluding
sure youRome, hasaware,
are well been placed under severeof travel restrictionsall PUBLISHER
WWW.WHEREROME.COM
As we are sure you Siamo
are well qui dadue
aware, due
to the
secoli.
to the
spread
Vi
spread of
the Coronavirus,
aspettiamo.
the Coronavirus, all
WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
www.wheremilan.com
TOURIST MEDIA S.R.L. We’ve been here
Now, we’re for to
ready centuries.
show youWe’re
thewaiting for you.
most beautiful
as of 10 March 2020, extending at least to 3 April. In addition,
of Italy, including Rome, has been placed under severe travel restrictions all museums, WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
PUBLISHER
Via delleMEDIA
Sette- Chiese, 7 - Rome, Italy 00145
of Italy, including
archeological sites,Messaggio
Rome, has
libraries, been dal
cinemas, Paese
placed under
theaters, più
and bello
severe
pubs del
travel
are mondo.
restrictions
closed,
as of 10 March 2020, extending at least to 3 April. In addition, all museums, and all PUBLISHER
PROEDI
TOURIST
Phone: MEDIA WHERE
S.R.L.
Ezio065781615/695
Viadelle Biondi, 1. 20154 Fax: 065781755 country
A in from
message the world.
the most beautiful country in the world.
as of 10 March 2020, extending atevents,
least toperformances,
3 April. Via
TOURIST Sette Chiese,
MEDIA S.R.L. 7 Milano.
- Rome, Italy 00145
concerts, plays,sites,
archeological exhibits, sporting
libraries, cinemas, theaters, andInpubs
addition,
and all museums,
other
are closed, events
and all T:
Via 02 349951
ADVERTISING
delle -
&
Sette Fax 02
Chiese, 33107015
CIRCULATION
7 - Rome,
Phone: 065781615/695 Fax: 065781755 Italy 00145
archeological
have been sites,
cancelled. libraries, cinemas, theaters, and pubs are
concerts, plays, exhibits, sporting events, performances, and other events closed, and all info@proedimedia.com
Phone:
SALES 065781615/695
& MARKETING Fax: 065781755
COORDINATOR
ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION
concerts, plays, Il settore
exhibits, del
sporting turismo
events, ha sofferto
performances, piùanddi tutti
other events www.wheremilan.com
Danilo Brunetti
ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION
The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the
have been cancelled. SALES & MARKETING COORDINATOR
d.brunetti@touristmedia.it
PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
haveare
We been cancelled.
hopeful that by 3recente
della April these travel restrictions
pandemia. I lockdown,will have been
le chiusure Danilo
SALES &Brunetti
MARKETING COORDINATOR
Andrea Jarach
global economy – the tourism industry. The current lockdown, closing
Danilo
ACCOUNTBrunetti
AND CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT
d.brunetti@touristmedia.it
lifted,
We arethe sites and
hopeful thatevents will these
by 3 April be up travel
and running, andwill
restrictions thehave
city will
been andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com
M.Angela di Pietro of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this
dei confini, il crollo delrestrictions
reddito disponibile, nel d.brunetti@touristmedia.it Recommended by
We
Andrea
Danilo are
embrace hopeful
Jarachits
Brunetti that
beloved by 3 April
travelers these
once travel
again. With faith
lifted, the sites and events will be up and running, and the city in will
that have been
eventuality,
will we ACCOUNT AND CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT
wheremark@touristmedia.it
COO
M.Angela
ACCOUNT AND di Pietro
Pierfrancesco CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT
Coreno editorial could be very depressing, but remember we’re talking about
lifted,
Publisher
Publisher
have
embrace the sites
produced and
our events
momento
April will
2020 be
in up
cui
issue, and
just running,
scrivo
as we do and
potrebbero
everythe city
month.
its beloved travelers once again. With faith in that eventuality, wewill
ispirare solo
Naturally, M.Angela
ADVERTISING di Pietro
DEPARTMENT
wheremark@touristmedia.it
Where ® ®
pierfrancesco.coreno@proedimedia.com
embrace itsof
beloved travelers once again. Rachele Renna, Pino di Persio, Enzo Danza, MILANO LOVES YOU
Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout
asWith faith in that eventuality,
will we
Where
at theproduced
time publishing, we cannot know what the next month wheremark@touristmedia.it
have ourdepressione.
April 2020 issue,
Ma just
stiamo we do
invece every month.
parlando Naturally,
dell’Italia. ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT
Rita De
MANAGINGLillo, Filly
EDITOR di Somma, Antonio Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
have
bring, produced
and we our April
therefore 2020
cannot issue, just
guarantee as we
that do
the
at the time of publishing, we cannot know what the next month willevery month.
events and Naturally,
exhibits Rachele
ADVERTISING
Benedetti Renna,
Alessandra FinziPino di Persio, Enzo Danza,
DEPARTMENT
history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics,
La meta
at thepreferita
time perwill
ofissue secoli
publishing, daiascannot
we viaggiatori. Infinite
know that
whatthe
thevolte
nextsfidata
month da
will Rachele
Rita Renna,
De Lillo, FillyPino
redazione@proedimedia.com
di Persio,
di Somma, Enzo Danza,
Antonio
listed
bring, in this
and we thereforegocannot
on scheduled.
guarantee events and exhibits ROME
Rita De Lillo, FillyDEPARTMENT/PRODUCTION
EDITORIAL
Benedetti di Somma, Antonio
bring, and we therefore cannot guarantee that the events and exhibits and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the
listed
guerre, in this issue
carestie, will goeon
epidemie as scheduled.
infinite volte tornata ad essere il Paese più Benedetti
EDITOR IN CHIEF DEPARTMENT/PRODUCTION
CONTRIBUTORS
ROME EDITORIAL
listed
We in this
thank youissue will go on as scheduled.
for understanding and we appreciate your continued M.Angela
ROME Di Pietro
CareyEDITORIAL
Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana most desirable tourist destination in the world.
EDITOR IN CHIEF DEPARTMENT/PRODUCTION
desiderato al Italy.
mondo. di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale,
whereadmini@touristmedia.it
support of
We thank you for understanding and we appreciate your continued M.Angela Di Pietro
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata,
EDITORIAL
M.Angela MANAGER
Di Pietro
whereadmini@touristmedia.it
We thankofyou
support for understanding and we appreciate your continued
Italy. Chiara Zaccarelli
Federico Schiaffino
whereadmini@touristmedia.it
EDITORIAL MANAGER Every night is followed by a new dawn, and if you look carefully you
support
Editorial of Italy.
Staff f.schiaffino@touristmedia.it
ICONOGRAPHY
Federico
EDITORIAL Schiaffino
MANAGER
Dopo ogni notte ci sarà una alba, e a ben guardare i segni possono Archivio Schiaffino
EDITORIAL
Federico Proedi Media,
DEPARTMENT will see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets
Editorial Staff f.schiaffino@touristmedia.it
Milano Panoramica,
Tiffany Parks
f.schiaffino@touristmedia.itShutterstock
Editorial
essere
Where Staffanche oggi. L’analisi dei big data di internet mostra
già Rome
colti EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT
whereedit@touristmedia.it shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions
Tiffany Parks
CARTOGRAPHY
EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT
Where
l’Italia Rome
come prima destinazione ricercata in milioni di interrogazioni City Map:
CONTRIBUTING
Tiffany Parks© Proedi
whereedit@touristmedia.it Comunicazione 2020
WRITERS/EDITORS
of Internet users. Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is
Where Rome Tiffany
Metro Parks
Map and Fast Trains Network Map
whereedit@touristmedia.it
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS/EDITORS Venice
online. L’offerta del nostro Paese è immensamente vasta per tesori Emma
DmitryLawGoloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2020, unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World
Tiffany
Mario Parks
CONTRIBUTING
Camerini
WRITERS/EDITORS
GRAPHIC
Tiffany
Emma DEPARTMENT
Parks
Law
naturali e culturali. Siamo il Paese con il maggior numero di Siti Alessia
Emma
GRAPHIC
Novella
Law
MARKETING & ADVERTISING
DEPARTMENT
Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum
whereedit@touristmedia.it
Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac,
UNESCO Patrimonio dell’Umanità. Se fossimo un museo saremmo il Alessia
GRAPHIC Novella
DEPARTMENT
in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the
Daniele
PRINTING
Alessia Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni
Novella
whereedit@touristmedia.it
advertising@proedimedia.com
Rotopress International s.r.l.
whereedit@touristmedia.it
museo più grande del mondo. Se fossimo un ristorante quello con la PRINTING
Via Brecce - 60025 Loreto (AN)
world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it
Rotopress
PRINTING
for International s.r.l.
ADMINISTRATION
cucina più apprezzata. Se fossimo una spiaggia quella meglio attrezzata Via
GRAFICHE PROFESSIONALI ROMA S.R.L.
Rotopress
Katia Greto
Brecce International
- 60025 Loreto s.r.l.
(AN) would be the best equipped in the world.
Via
Via Sequals, 4 Rome
amministrazione@proedimedia.com
Brecce - PROFESSIONALI
60025 LoretoROMA(AN) S.R.L.
for GRAFICHE
al mondo. CIRCULATION
for
Via Sequals,
GRAFICHE 4 Rome
PROFESSIONALI ROMA S.R.L.
Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are
PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION,
TPE
Via www.tperoma.it
Sequals, 4 Rome
Montagne, foreste e boschi, laghi, colline paesaggi unici
SALES SUPPORT
CIRCULATION
Registrazione
MANAGER only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is
TPEPaola Grilli presso il Tribunale di Roma n. 110/95
www.tperoma.it
CIRCULATION
del 7.03.1995
TPEpaola.grilli@proedimedia.com
www.tperoma.it
Registrazione presso il Tribunale di Roma n. 110/95 made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was
contraddistinguono l’Italia. Ma tutto questo poi è reso unico dalla Registrazione
del
Where 7.03.1995
RomeRELATIONS presso
is not held il Tribunale
responsible diand/or
for any errors Roma n. 110/95
omissions concerning Florence
HOTEL MANAGER
del
the 7.03.1995
information
Maria
on the places indicated or for the opinions expressed in the
Granata
a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth,
gente. Meglio, dalle genti. Per millenni la penisola fu meta di migrazioni various articles.
Where Rome is All
notrights reserved. Reproduction
held responsible for any errorsinand/or
whole omissions
or in part without the
concerning
the maria.granata@proedimedia.com
express
Where
permission
information on the
Rome is not
of the publisher
heldplaces
responsible
is prohibited.
indicated or for
for any the opinions
errors expressed
and/or omissions in the
concerning settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in
e popoli del nord o del mare si installarono apportando nuove culture various
the
WHERE
articles. All
information
CUSTOMER
express
onrights
is also
permission
the reserved.
places
published
SERVICES
of thereserved.
Reproduction
indicated
publisher
inopinions
or for the
inis prohibited.
Milan,
whole orexpressed
Venice,
in part without
Florence,inand the the
various
Turin
express
articles.
by
Cristina Proedi
All rights
ofComunicazione.
Garbini
permission
Reproduction
the publisher is prohibited.
in whole or in part without the
the creation of Italy.
che andarono a creare l’Italia. WHERE is also published in Milan, Venice, Florence, and
cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com
WHERE
Turin byisProedi
also published
Comunicazione.in Milan, Venice, Florence, and
MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS
Turin by Proedi
REG. TRIB. Comunicazione.
MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010
EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455
CHAIRMAN
MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS
DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH
So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge
E adesso caro visitatore ti aspettiamo orgogliosi della nostra Italia, William
PRINTED BYS.
MORRIS Morris III SPA
COMMUNICATIONS
GRAPHICSCALVE
CHAIRMAN
LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our
CHAIRMAN
William
PRESIDENT S. Morris
AND CEO III
accoglienti, e decisi a offrirti una esperienza unica che nei secoli milioni Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright
William S. Morris III
IV
credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique
PRESIDENT
we would like toAND CEOto the copyright holders in question whose
apologize
di viaggiatori hanno ricercato. Dopo la pestilenza del Medio Evo arrivò il PRESIDENT
William AND CEO
S. Morris IV
names will be published
MVP EXECUTIVE in the next issue.
experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember
William S. Morris
Where® Magazine makesIV every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
PRESIDENT
information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any
Rinascimento. MVP EXECUTIVE
consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Turin the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance!
MVP
Donna EXECUTIVE
W. inKessler
Reproduction whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
PRESIDENT
Where® è qui per svolgere la sua missione di guidare i viaggiatori PRESIDENT
MANAGING
Donna DIRECTOR EUROPE
W. Kessler Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage
EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS
Donna
Chris W.
ManningKessler
alla scoperta dell’Italia, anche nel nuovo Rinascimento. WHERE MILAN È DISTRIBUITO NEIEUROPE
MANAGING DIRECTOR
CON 20.100 CAMERE
MIGLIORI HOTEL DI MILANO,
to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance.
MANAGING
WHERE MILAN ISDIRECTOR
AVAILABLE EUROPE
IN by
MILAN'S MOSTPublications
EXCLUSIVE HOTELS,
Chris
Where Manning
Magazine® is published the Visitor Division of the
A presto! FOR THE
Morris
Chris
GUESTS OF THE 20,100 ROOMS AVAILABLE
Communications Company, LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901
Manning
www.wheremilan.com/distribution
Where Magazine® and the where® logo are registered trademarks of the
Morris
We look forward to seeing you soon!
Where Magazine® is published by the Visitor Publications Division of
Visitor Publications.
L'Editore
Morris
Where Communications
Where Magazine® and
Company,
Magazine® is published
the where®
LLC.
by the
logo
725 Broad
Visitor
are
St., Augusta,
Publications
registered
Morris Communications Company, LLC. 725 Broad St.,Where® trademarks
GAof30901
Division
Augusta, GA of
the
Morris
30901
The Publisher
MVP
Visitor Publications. magazine
Where Magazine® and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris
Visitor Publications. and the where ®
logo are registered
trademarks of Morris
Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications.
>> Per
>> Per verificare
verificare ii giorni
giorni ee le
le modalità
modalità di
di apertura
apertura di
di MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS
>> To check the opening of museums, restaurants,
musei, ristoranti,
musei, ristoranti, negozi
negozi ee outlet:
outlet: www.whererome.com
www.wheremilan.com MVP EXECUTIVE stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com
www.whererome.com
6 W H E R E R O M E I A P R I L 2020 CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III Rome
COVER IMAGE: ROME’S SHE-WOLF ON THE CAPITOLINE HILL
PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV
6 W H E R E R O M E I A P R I L 2020
6 W H E R E R O M E I A P R I L 2020
Where_marzo_2020_206x276.qxp_Layout 1 18/02/20 18:23 Pagina 1
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
MOZART
UNDER THE STARS ROOF TOP EXPERIENCE
THURSDAY 6
The grand finale of the summer season
of the renowned Santa Cecilia Academy
“Les Etoiles” Ristorante & Terrazza
Orchestra and Chorus brings together these
world-class musicians, along with celebrated soloists,
in the evocative outdoor setting of the PDM’s
open-air Cavea. Maestro Carlo Rizzari takes the
podium to direct an all-Mozart program.
The first half of the concert features four
stunning vocalists performing Mozart’s rarely
heard Nocturnes. In the performance’s second
half, the Sinfonia Concertante and the Sinfonia
n. 36 “Linz” fill Rome’s night sky with the
glorious melodies and harmonies that could
only come from Mozart’s pen.
santacecilia.it
HOT DATES
August
The hottest month of the year also offers numerous unmissable concerts for music lovers of any persuasion.
ANNA NETREBKO AND YUSIF EYVAZOV
THURSDAY 6 AND SUNDAY 9
2000 years ago, Romans flocked to Circus Maximus to watch thrilling chariot races. Today,
and this summer in particular, the venue has been transformed into an open-air concert
hall for operas, symphonic performances, and other events. The most anticipated date on
the calendar this month is a dual recital by two of the opera world’s most celebrated stars,
real-life couple soprano Anna Netrebko and tenor Yusif Eyvazov. The pair perform a homage
to Rome, with music by Puccini, Verdi, Dvořák, Mascagni, and more. The concert will be
Lunch and Dinner In the heart of historical Rome,
accompanied by the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma Orchestra under the baton of Jader Bignamini.
Italian Aperitivo two blocks from Vatican City,
Lehar’s operetta The Merry Widow and Rossini’s iconic The Barber of Seville, both in concert
come and experience
version, are also on the program this month. operaroma.it
Cocktails Roof Garden Restaurant “Les Etoiles”
PINK FLOYD LEGEND Wines and spirits and a huge panoramic Terrace Bar.
THURSDAY 27 Open every day
You may have missed your chance to see Pink Floyd perform live by a
couple of decades, but it’s not too late to live your dream. Attending from 10:00 am till midnight.
a concert by Pink Floyd Legend, the number one tribute band for
the immortal progressive rock ensemble, is the next best thing. On
occasion of the 50th anniversary of Atom Heart Mother, Pink Floyd’s Via dei Bastioni, 1 (corner Via G. Vitelleschi)
fifth studio album, they present all the original arrangements, sounds,
lighting, and effects that have become legendary, as well as special
Tel. +39 06 686386
guest appearance by Pink Floyd back-up singer, Durga McBroom. Don’t www.atlantehotels.com
miss nearly 40 years of rock history condensed into an unmissable two-
hour show. Auditorium PDM Cavea. auditorium.com
2 W H E R E R O M E I AU G U S T 2020
4 W H E R E R O M E I AU G U S T 2020 4 W H E R E R O M E I J U N E 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 5
WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR
The very famous Chianti zone, are the best in the world. Apropos of coffee,
renowned for its vineyards, there’s a tradition that sums up the city better
verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, than a thousand words: the Neapolitans call it
STROLLING THROUGH THE CITY
olives groves, towns and abbeys “caffè appeso” and it involves buying a coffee
built on hilltops, is around for yourself, and then purchasing another
originally covered the Colosseum. They
half an hour by car from the one for someone else who doesn’t have the
were ‘recycled’ to build several historic
centre of Florence. money to pay for it.
Roman buildings including the Basilica
Naples is the ideal starting point to explore
of St. Peter’s and Palazzo Barberini.
the other beauties of Italy: the islands of the
archipelago, Capri, Ischia and Procida, and
the Amalfi Coast infused with the scent of Florence
lemons. There is also Pompeii, the city, buried How can one describe a city which
by layers of volcanic ash during the eruption originated in the Renaissance in just a few
of Vesuvius two thousand years ago, and one words? It’s impossible! The only solution
of the most incredible archaeological sites in Venice is to visit the Duomo or Santa Croce, the
the world. masterpieces housed in the Uffizi, the
Tuscany Venice Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria,
Michelangelo’s “David” or Palazzo Pitti. It
Matera, the hidden pearl With canals in the place of streets, and is really no surprise that the entire city
of the South boats instead of cars, Venice, the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since
of a thousand bridges, spectacular there is not one centimeter that is not
When it became the European capital of facades, and breathtaking views, offers a worthy visiting, we strongly suggest that
culture in 2019, Materia has got the visibility dreamlike vision. This romantic city par you make time to lose yourself amidst
it deserved. Matera was founded in the dark excellence, has a wealth of historic and its art and architecture, its history and its
ages, and is one of the most intriguing places artistic treasures that would be difficult landscapes. There’s just one thing that
in Southern Italy, renowned, above all, for the to find in any country other than Italy. you need to remember: this is the place
uniqueness of it charming historic centre. Its To enjoy them to the fullest, climb to where Stendhal experienced what was
so-called ‘Sassi’ (cave dwellings) are houses, the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, or the later to become known as the Stendhal
churches and, now, even hotels, literally carved lesser known spiral staircase of Palazzo syndrome…
into the tufa stone. Lying one on top of the Contarini del Bovolo, and let your gaze
other, they overhang a gorge to create an wander over the lagoon.
incredible nativity-like scenario. Located just
a few kilometers from the beaches of Puglia,
the city is well worth a visit. In addition to the
Rome
Sassi, it includes a Romanesque cathedral, the Fifteen square kilometers and twenty-
Convent of Sant’Agostino, the church of San five-thousand attractions: Rome’s
Matera Portofino historic centre has been a UNESCO
Giovanni Battista and the Baroque church of
San Francesco. Located off the beaten tourist world heritage site since 1980. A symbol
track, Matera has often been used as a film among symbols and the most widely
times, this beautiful coastal village has been There’s Siena, with its unmistakable square. northern Tuscany. It is here that the majority
set. In 2003, thanks to its arresting landscapes photographed monument in the world,
a highly sought-after holiday destination. There’s San Gimignano with its sixteen towers of the area’s most fashionable seaside resorts Florence
and timeless atmosphere, Mel Gibson the Colosseum is considered one of
And, even now, with its ‘piazzetta’, Portofino and Pisa, whose one and only tower is unique are located. The summer getaway for the rich
chose Matera to re-create the biblical city of the 7 wonders of the modern world.
is a reference point for international tourism. throughout the world. Ultimately, there and famous including financiers, big names
Jerusalem for his controversial blockbuster ‘The The memory of its performances – Turin
Although its hotels are astronomically are Tuscany’s cities and art, its man-made in sports and showbiz celebrities, Forte dei
Passion of Christ’. gladiators, wild animals and naval battles A Roman colony, the first capital of
priced, a drink by its yacht-filled harbor, artifacts and its vestiges of history. Above Marmi was founded in 1788 by the Grand
– re-enacted in the arena have always Italy and an industrial city. From its
or a stroll around its designer shops can all, there’s the lyrical landscape with which Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo I of Lorraine
fueled the fantasy of history and film origins to the present time, Turin has
be easily enjoyed on a day trip. There are Tuscany continues to enchant both Italians who commissioned the building of a ‘fort’ to The Kingdom of Baroque buffs. However, everyone is aware of had several different incarnations,
many anecdotes about the town which was and foreigners. There are gently rolling defend the shipment of the precious marble
Caltagirone, Militello, Catania, Modica, Noto, what happened to the 100,000 cubic each of which has left profound traces
used as film set for the Antonioni/Wenders hills, cypresses, sunflowers, narrow winding quarried from the nearby town of Carrara,
Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli: these are the metres of shining white marble that in its architecture and urban layout.
movie ‘Beyond the Clouds’. One in particular streets and stone houses scattered around thus making it an important crossroads for
names of Sicily’s magical Baroque towns. Extending over a surface area of less
concerns Villa Altachiara. Its first owner, Lord the countryside. The Tuscan experience is trade. The town is also a mecca of luxury
Protected by UNESCO, and located in south- than 150 square kilometers, crossed by
Carnarvon, who financed the expedition that bound to win over your heart. However, if you shopping.
eastern Sicily, they are sure to steal your the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin
led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, haven’t had your fill of marvels, stop at San
heart and leave you awestruck. Although is characterized by a checkerboard-like
is said to have brought the ‘Curse of the Galgano, the abbey with the sky for a roof!
almost all of these towns existed during grid of streets that makes getting your
Pharaoh’ upon himself. He died shortly after Ah, the wonders of Tuscany! Naples and then… medieval times, they were razed to the bearings easy. One of the city’s most
the tomb was opened and his villa became a
“See Naples and die” is an Italian saying of ground by a devastating earthquake in 1693. distinctive architectural features is its
site of sinister, inexplicable happenings… Forte dei Marmi: the sea
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
unknown origin. Believe it or not, all the However, this tragedy resulted in a miracle 18km of porticoes which house shops
of Tuscany clichés about Naples are true: it’s opulent, of beauty: architecture, urban planning and and cafés: its porticoes and its elegant
Tuscany, the Italy that In addition to being the birthplace of a queen passionate, musical, contradictory, chaotic the ornamentation of buildings constitute squares have given Turin the nickname
everyone dreams about (Paola Ruffo of Calabria, the Queen Consort and neglected. People are friendly and the crowning achievement of one of the last Rome of a ‘drawing room’ city.
There’s Florence, boasting the magnificent of Belgium until 2013), Forte dei Marmi is the ‘trained’ over the centuries to ‘get by’, for periods of the flourishing Baroque movement
works of Michelangelo and his marble statues. jet-set paradise of Versilia, on the coast of better or worse. And, yes, its pizza and coffee in Europe. An absolute marvel!
24 W H E R E M I L A N I J U LY 2 0 2 0 www.whe re t ravel er.c om 25
6 W H E R E R O M E I AU G U S T 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 7
8 W H E R E R O M E I AU G U S T 2020
www.wheretraveler.com 9
WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR
TOP 10
Ròdon 2018 - Le Fraghe
corvina 80%, 12% alc.
Bardolino Chiaretto DOC (Veneto)
Veneto)
www.fraghe.it
In Italy you can find some
delightful and prized rosé wines Rosa-ae 2019 -
in all 20 regions. This month Torre dei Beati
Where® presents its selection montepulciano 100%, 13.5%
%
of excellent rosé wines that you Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC (Abruzzo)
www.torredeibeati.it
could try during your stay in Italy.
Obvius 2018 – Salcheto
alcheto
sangiovese 90%, canaiolo nero, mammolo,
Lagrein Rosé 2018 – merlot 10%, 12.5% alc.
Cantina Tramin Rosato di Toscana (Tuscany)
y)
lagrein 100%, 13% alc. www.salcheto.it
Alto Adige DOC (South Tyrol)
www.cantinatramin.it Mjère 2019 - Michele Calò
negroamaro 90%, malvasia nera 10%, 12.5% alc.
Mea Rosa 2019 – Lunae Salento Rosato IGP (Puglia)
vermentino nero 100%, 13% alc. www.michelecalo.it
Golfo dei Poeti IGT
www.cantinelunae.com
Costa d'Amalfi Rosato 2019 -
Marisa Cuomo Lumera 2019 - Donnafugata
Poderi di Sopra 2018 - piedirosso (locally known as per' e palummo)
Ròdon 2018 - Le Fraghe
Valle Roncati 50%, aglianico 50%, 13.5% alc.
nebbiolo 100%, 13% alc. Costa d'Amalfi DOC (Campania)
Colline Novaresi DOC (Piedmont) www.marisacuomo.com
www.vignetivalleroncati.it
Lumera 2019 –
RosaMara 2018 - Donnafugata
Costaripa nero d’avola, syrah, pinot nero, 12% alc.
groppello gentile 50%, marzemino 30%, Sicilia Rosato DOC (Sicily)
sangiovese 10%, barbera 10%, 13% alc. www.donnafugata.it
Valtènesi DOC (Lombardy)
www.costaripa.it
Mae Rosa 2018 - Lunae
Do you like the subject? If you’re in Milan,
Cornelia G. Hassmüller offers tastings of rosé
wines from north and south, involving tastings
of 8 wines from 8 Italian regions.
To book: https://milanowineaffair.com
Obvius 2018 - Salcheto
28 W H E R E M I L A N I J U LY 2020 w w w. w h e re t r a v e l e r. co m 29
10 W H E R E R O M E I AU G U S T 2020 RosaMara 2018 - Costaripa www.wheretraveler.com 11
WHERE NOW | TRAVEL TIPS
The Smart Tourist’s
Guide to Rome
R
A little insider knowledge ome can be the destina-
tion of a lifetime, a beauti-
can make all the
ful backdrop to a holiday
difference. spent admiring great monuments,
Emma Law tells you gorging on art and culture, and
what's overrated—and people-watching in atmospheric
what to do instead. piazzas as the real life version of La
Dolce Vita plays out in front of you.
Some tourists, however, are left
Visit
wheretraveler.com feeling underwhelmed by Rome’s
for more Rome
tips.
most popular sights. Visit the Trevi
Fountain at the wrong time for that stock industrial limoncello and novelty-shaped pasta, explore some of you’ll need to reserve a spot online beforehand, but, as places are limited,
example and prepare to be trampled by hundreds of sightseers jos- Rome's old-school mercati. you’ll also have more room to enjoy the gallery itself. Appreciate Cara-
© DAVID MACCHI / © SARAHTARNO / © MELANIE BATEMAN /
For an alternative food shopping experience, head to the working class vaggio’s use of chiaroscuro and marvel at Bernini’s talent for transforming
tling for a prime position to toss their coin into the water.
neighborhood of Testaccio (Metro B, Piramide). Inside the modern, pur- a solid block of marble into soft, fluid human figures without your toes
Avoid disappointment and arm yourself with the knowledge you pose-built site are the same stalls that have been selling their produce and being trodden on by other visitors.
need to make sure Rome lives up to its reputation as one of the goods to locals for generations. Aside from fruit, vegetables, meat and > Go further afield
cheese, you should also pick up lunch. Grab a mouth-watering supplí from As the city of seven hills, Rome offers many spots to admire its stunning
world’s most awe-inspiring cities.
Foodbox, a plate of fresh pasta at Le Mani in Pasta, or a sandwich filled skyline and yet, many tourists head straight to the Vittorio Emanuele
> Be independent
with Roman specialties like artichokes, Monument at Piazza Venezia. Fail to
You’ve probably already heard that Via del Corso is the place to go for shopping in Rome.
allesso beef, and even tripe at Mordi e Vai. explore further afield however, and
It certainly attracts the masses and has the biggest brands (Zara, H&M, and Gap have flag-
> Avoid the crowds you’ll miss out on some of Rome’s best
ship stores here) but is it the best choice?
Fail to plan your visit to the Vatican vistas. Head to Giardino degli Aran-
If independent shops and artisanal boutiques are more your thing, head to the Monti
Museums and you could find a long ci for a stunning view of St. Peter’s,
neighborhood (pictured right) instead. The cobbled streets and ivy-draped palazzos
queue waiting for you. Then, after enhanced further by the scent of
demand you shop at a gentle pace so take the time to visit as many of the eclectic stores
© ELENA GABRIELLI
spending hours in line, the museum oranges (pictured previous page top
as you please. From handmade jewelry to designer fashion, bohemian homeware to
is packed. It's the only way to see the left). The most romantic view can be
objects of design, and the best vintage shops in the city, you’re guaranteed to pick up
Sistine Chapel but if lines and crowds found atop Giancolo Hill along with
something unique.
aren’t your thing then go to Galleria the 17th-century Fontana dell’Acqua
> Think authentic
Borghese instead (pictured left). Paola (pictured above). Arrive at sunset
Shop where the Romans shop. Instead of perusing tourist-y stores around the city center
Entry is by advance ticket only, meaning for an atmospheric end to the day.
12 W H E R E R O M E I AU G U S T 2020 w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. co m 13
PIÙ
SALDI PIÙ SORRISI
ancora più risparmio sui nostri prezzi outlet
mcarthurglen.it/castelromano
la data di inizio e di fine saldi è determinata in base alle disposizioni della Regione
[ I TA L I A N G R A N D T O U R]
Top in Rome SEE
SEE MAP
PAGE
MAP
PAGE58/59
54
1 2
9
8
3 4 6 0 13
COLOSSEUM 1 the Four Rivers, which encompasses with the imperious statue of Oceano many more. The Sistine Chapel by Passetto, a passageway used to be a summit of the Campidoglio is located
The Colosseum is the indestructible an Egyptian obelisk and a sculpture of dominating the scene. Make sure to toss Michelangelo is regarded as one of secret escape for the popes. the Basilica of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli,
symbol of the Eternal City and the four river gods. Other two magnificent a coin or two into its famous waters to the major artistic accomplishments of Map C2/3 reachable by a steep staircase counting
largest amphitheatre ever built. It was fountains decorate the piazza: the assure your return to Rome. Map E3 human civilization. Map B2 MOUTH OF TRUTH 0 124 steps. Map D4
used for gladiatorial contests and public fountain of the Moor, and the Fountain SAINT PETER’S BASILICA 6 PANTHEON 8 It is a marble mask which stands PIAZZA DEL POPOLO 12
spectacles such as mock sea battles, of the Neptune. Map D3 The greatest church in the world with art The city only architecturally intact against the left wall of Santa Maria in It is an enormous square architecturally
wild animal hunts, executions, and PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 4 masterpieces including Michelangelo’s monument from classical times, Cosmedin church. As a lie-detector superb and perfectly symmetrical,
reenactments of famous battles. The most famous staircase in the world, Pietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino. constructed by Agrippa in 27 BC from another time, it attracts dominated by an Egyptian obelisk
Map F4 with its sinuous flight of steps (1772). Michelangelo’s mighty silver-blue and rebuilt by Hadrian. The interior thousands of visitors who audaciously and enriched by important churches
ROMAN FORUM 2 Climb the stairs for a fantastic view of dome dominates the grandiose scene, measures 43.4 m in width and height. stick their hand in the mouth. such as the church of Santa Maria del
The heart of Ancient Rome. See the the city and visit the stunning Trinità dei while Bernini’s Colonnade forms the Light and air (and even rain) enter According to legend, a liar who puts Popolo, which boasts masterpieces by
Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, Monti church at the very top. At its feet solemn entrance to the Vatican and the through the opening at the top his hand in the mouth will have it Caravaggio and Pinturicchio.
the House of the Vestal Virgins, and is the graceful Fountain of the Barcaccia Christendom. Map B3 through which the sky pervade the bitten off. Map D5 Map D1
more. Climb the Palatine Hill to find the by Bernini from which begins Via temple. Map D3 CAPITOLINE HILL !
VATICAN MUSEUMS/SISTINE CHAPEL 7 VILLA BORGHESE 13
Domus Flavia and the Museo Palatino. Condotti, the most exclusive shopping The most important museum of Rome CASTEL SANT’ANGELO 9 One of the seven hills of Rome,
The most celebrated and easily accessible
Map E/F4/5 street in Rome. Map E2 with an incomparable collection Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, boasting a piazza, designed by
villa is Villa Borghese on the Pincian hill.
TREVI FOUNTAIN 5 of Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, transformed into a majestic fortress Michelangelo with a bronze copy
PIAZZA NAVONA 3 Take a walk through its intricate gardens
Architect Nicola Salvi’s iconic fountain, Renaissance, and baroque art; works centuries later, now a museum. It is of the equestrian statue of Marcus
One of the most beautiful squares in or go rowing at the romantic Giardino del
celebrating the triumph of waters by Raphael, Caravaggio, Canova, and joined to the Vatican by the famous Aurelius in the middle. On the highest
Rome, it boasts Bernini’s Fountain of Lago. Map D1
14 W
WHHEERREE MRIO
16 LAMNE II M
AUAY
G U2020
S T 2020 15
w w w. w heretravel er. com 17
www.wheretraveler.comWELCOME TO ROME
Explore our stunning space, created by the finest talent in architecture and
design, the timeless charm of the Aqua Virgo, an ancient Roman aqueduct
brought back to light and now visible to everyone, as well as the breathtaking
view of the eternal city from the rooftop.
Be inspired by the best in fashion, accessories, beauty, design and gourmet
foods, with the finest Italian and international brands.
ENJOY YOUR SHOPPING
SHOW THIS COUPON TO GET 10%* OFF YOUR PURCHASES
-10%* -12%**
*Exclusively for foreign individual customers upon presentation of a valid foreign passport. Valid except for
regional restriction regulations and only on brands which support the initiative. The discount cannot be combined
with other promotions and does not apply on cafeterias and restaurants on the 6th floor (valid on food market
purchases). Not valid for online shopping. Valid until December 31, 2020.
**Tax free: If you are resident in an Extra-EU country and you have spent at least 154.94 euros in the same day,
you are entitled to a refund of 12% on the total amount of your purchase. Rinascente values your shopping and
therefore grants you one more advantage: the possibility to substitute the cash refund with a coupon, allowing
you to spend the amount to be refunded adding a complimentary 10% to such sum, for purchases at Rinascente.
FLAGSHIP STORES
MIL AN | PIAZZA DUOMO • ROME | VIA DEL TRITONE
STORES
ROME | PIAZZA FIUME TURIN FLORENCE CAGLIARI
C ATA N I A M O N Z A PA L E R M O
SHOP ON RINASCENTE.ITSummer Shopping Spree
Get decked out for summer without breaking the bank! The discounts at
Rome’s premier designer outlet have to be seen to be believed.
T
he warm-weather season is finally here and there’s no better which feature bold installations such as the life-size replica of a T-Rex
excuse to go shopping, whether you intend to completely skeleton and the towering bronze sculpture of an African elephant.
revamp your wardrobe or just update a few essential items. Visitors to the center can browse more than 200 shops, from couture
Located just south of town, McArthurGlen Designer Outlet Castel Italian fashion houses, such as Ferragamo, Versace, Etro, Missoni, and
Romano is a sprawling outdoor luxury shopping mall offering styles Ermenegildo Zegna, to high-end sportswear boutiques like Lacoste,
by the most prestigious Italian and international designers. Thanks to Converse, Adidas, Nike, and K-Way, to instantly recognizable inter-
their year-round discounts of up to 70%, brands that you may have national brands like Diesel, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Coach, and
considered unattainable in the past are now delightfully within your Swarovski. Kids’ fashions are represented too, thanks to Petit Bateau
grasp. and Primigi while accessories from Furla and Gallo and lingerie by La
The outlet has become a favourite shopping destination for Romans Perla and Wolford, mean the outlet leaves virtually no desire unmet.
(and in-the-know tourists) since it opened its doors in 2003. Though And if you buy so much you don’t know how you’ll ever fit it all in
reminiscent of large outdoor American malls, such as LA’s famous your suitcase, treat yourself to a new one from Piquadro or Samsonite.
The Grove, Castel Romano Designer Outlet has a distinctly Italian Non EU-residents, bring your passport and you’ll save on sales tax too!
flair. Mono-brand stores are grouped around a number of “piazzas,” > Via Ponte di Piscina Cupa, 64. Tel 065050050. mcarthurglen.com
ADVERTORIAL
20 W H E R E R O M E I AU G U S T 2020[ FA S H I O N D E S I G N E R S ]
Luxury Top Brands MICHAEL KORS Open daily, 10am–8pm.
ALBERTA FERRETTI Open Mon–Sat, 10am– DAMIANI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm. Via dei Condotti, 36. Tel 0669941372.
When it comes to 7pm; Sun, 10am–1:30pm and 2:30–7pm. Via dei Via dei Condotti, 84. Tel 0669200477. michaelkors.com Map E2
Condotti, 34. Tel 066991160. albertaferretti.com damiani.com Map E2
MISSONI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm; Sun,
shopping, the Eternal City Map E2
DIOR Open daily, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 1–4. 10:30am–7:30pm. Piazza di Spagna, 78. Tel
ALTARIVA Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm; 066793419. missoni.com Map E2
does not disappoint. The Sun, 10am–1:30pm and 2:30–7pm. Via del
Tel 0669924489. (Women’s). Piazza di Spagna, 70/71.
Tel 0669190944. dior.com Map E2
MIU MIU Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm;
birthplace of iconic brands Tritone, 31/32/33. Tel 0686984609.
altarivashoes.it Map E3 DOLCE&GABBANA Open daily, 10:30am–7:30pm. Sun, 10am–7pm. Via del Babuino, 91. Tel
Via dei Condotti, 51/52. Tel 0669924999. 0636004884. miumiu.com Map E2
like Bulgari, Valentino, and ASPESI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm. dolcegabbana.com Map E2 You can personalize this cedar and nutmeg
MONTBLANC Open Tue–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; perfume from Gucci by adding your own
Via del Babuino, 144a. Tel 063230376.
Fendi, Rome holds its own aspesi.com Map D2 EMILIO PUCCI Open daily, 10am–7pm. Piazza di Sun, 11am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 70. Tel
choice of scented waters and oils.
Spagna, 87. Tel 066784058. emiliopucci.com 0669941894. montblanc.com Map E2
in the world of high fash- BALENCIAGA Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm. Map E2
MOSCHINO Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm;
Via Borgognona, 7e. Tel 0687502260.
ion, offering visitors and balenciaga.com Map E2 EMPORIO ARMANI Open daily, 10:30am–7:30pm. Sun, 11am–7:30pm. Via del Babuino, 156. Tel
Sizing
Via del Babuino, 140. Tel 063221581. armani.com 066781144. moschino.com Map E2
locals a chance to shop BLUMARINE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Map D2
POMELLATO Open Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm.
Sun, 11am–7pm. Via Borgognona, 31. Tel
some of the world’s most 066790951. blumarine.com Map E2 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Open Mon–Sat, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 38. Tel Women clothes
10am–7:30pm; Sun, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 0668809790. pomellato.com Map D3
BORSALINO Open Mon, 3:30pm–7:30pm; Tue– 58. Tel 0669940678. zegna.com Map E2 Euro US UK
celebrated luxury brands. Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm. Via di Campo Marzio, 72a.
PRADA Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm;
ETRO Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, Sun, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 92/95 34 00 2
Tel 066783945. Map E2. Piazza del Popolo, 20.
If you want a glimpse into Tel 0632650838. Map D1. Via Sistina, 58a. Tel 10:30am–7:30pm. Via del Babuino, 102. Tel (women’s). Via dei Condotti, 88 (men’s). 36 0 4
066788257. etro.com Map E2 Tel 066790897. prada.com Map E2
the soul of top designer 066788821. Map E2. borsalino.com 38 2 6
BOTTEGA VENETA Open Mon–Sat, 10am– FENDI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, ROBERTO CAVALLI Open daily, 10:30am– 40 4 8
fashion, look no further 7:30pm; Sun 10am–7pm. Piazza San Lorenzo in 10:30am–7:30pm. Largo Goldoni. Tel 06334501. 1pm and 2–7pm. Via Borgognona, 25. 42 6 10
Lucina, 9/13. Tel 0668210024. fendi.com Map E2 Tel 0669925469. robertocavalli.com
than the city’s exclusive Map E2
44 8 12
bottegaveneta.com Map D3 FRATELLI ROSSETTI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–
Via dei Condotti. This BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Open daily, 10:30am– 7:30pm; Sun, 10am–2pm, 3pm–7pm. SAINT LAURENT Open daily, 10am–
8pm. Piazza di S. Lorenzo in Lucina,
Women shoes
7:30pm. Via Borgognona, 33. Tel 066787680. Via del Babuino, 59.a Tel 0636003957.
glam street is virtually a brunellocucinelli.com Map E2 fratellirossetti.com Map E2 17. Tel 066795577. ysl.com Map E2 Euro US UK
GIORGIO ARMANI Open daily, 10:30am–7:30pm. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Open 36 6 3
couture candy store, lush BULGARI Open daily, Mon & Sun, 11am–7pm;
Via dei Condotti, 77. Tel 066991460. Map E2. Via Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun,
Tue–Sat, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 10. Tel 37 7 4
Tomacelli, 144. Tel 0668808160. Map D2 armani.
with boutiques by Gucci, 06696261. bulgari.com Map E2
com
10:30am–7:30pm. Via dei Condotti,
65. Tel 066781130. ferragamo.com
38 8 5
CAR SHOE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun 39 9 6
Ermenegildo Zegna, Dior, 11am–7pm. Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina, 5. GUCCI Open Sun–Fri, 10am–7pm; Sat, 10am–
Map E2
7:30pm. Via dei Condotti, 8. Tel 066790405. gucci.
40 10 7
TOD’S Open Mon–Sat, 10am–
Alberta Ferretti, Dolce & Tel 0689385111. carshoe.com Map D3
com Map E2 7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7:30pm. Via 41 11 8
CARTIER Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7pm; dei Condotti, 53a. Tel 066991089 (women’s). Via
Gabbana, and more. The Sunday 11am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 82/83. HERMÈS Open daily, 10:30am–7pm. Via dei
Fontanella Borghese, 56a. Tel 0668210066 (men’s) Men clothes (chest)
Tel 06696751. cartier.com Map E2 Condotti, 67. Tel 066791882. Via Bocca di Leone,
tods.com Map E2
nearby Piazza di Spagna, 23a. Tel 066791882. hermes.com Map E2 Euro US UK
CÉLINE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm. Via dei TOM FORD FOR MEN (GENTE) Open daily,
Via Borgognona, Piazza Condotti, 20a. Tel 066787594. celine.com Map E2 HOGAN Open daily, 10:30am–2pm and 3pm–
7:30pm. Via del Babuino, 110. Tel 066786828.
10:30am–7:30pm. Via del Babuino, 185. Tel 44 34 34
063226975. tomford.com Map E2 46 36 36
San Lorenzo in Lucina, and CHANEL Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm. Piazza di
Spagna, 85. Tel 0669769999. chanel.com
hogan.com Map E2
48 38 38
TRUSSARDI Open daily, 10am–7:30pm.
JIMMY CHOO Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm;
Via del Babuino are also Map E2
Sun, 11am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 68a. Tel
Via Frattina, 42/43. Tel 0669380939. 50 40 40
CHURCH’S Open Mon–Sat, 0669922667. jimmychoo.com Map E2
trussardi.com Map E2 52 42 42
must-see spots for fashion 10am–7:30pm; Sun 10am–7pm. Via VALENTINO Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; 54 44 44
dei Condotti, 57. Tel 0669190920. LORO PIANA Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30-pm;
mavens. Sun, 11am–2pm and 3pm–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 24.
Sun 10am–7pm. Piazza di Spagna, 38. Tel
church-footwear.com Map E2
Tel 0669924906. loropiana.com Map D2
0694515710. valentino.com Map E2 Men shoes
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Open Mon– Euro US UK
LOUIS VUITTON Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm;
Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7pm.
Sun, 11am–7:30pm. Piazza di S. Lorenzo in Lucina, 41 8 7
41. Tel 0668809520. Map D3. Via dei Condotti, Via dei Condotti, 15. Tel 069025481.
This summery Chanel shines vancleefarpels.com Map E2 42 9 8
13. Tel 0669940000. Map E2 louisvuitton.com with this lightweight
straw handbag by 43 10 9
MAX & CO Open daily, 10am–8pm. Via dei Condotti, outfit designed to VERSACE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm;
Miu Miu feels as
light as the ocean 46. Tel 066787946. maxandco.com Map E2 be paired with Sun, 10:30am–7:30pm. Piazza di Spagna, 12. 45 11 10
dazzling Tel 066780521. versace.com Map E2 46 12 11
breeze on your
MAX MARA Open daily, 10am–8pm. Via dei jewelry.
arm.
Condotti, 17/19. Tel 0669922104. maxmara.com ZILLI Open Mon–Sat, 9:30am–7:30pm; Sun, 47 13 12
Map E2 10:30am–6:30pm. Via Vittorio Veneto, 144.
Tel 06486972. zilli.com Map F2
www.wheretraveler.com 31
3022
WW
HEHREER ER O
RM E EI AU
OM GU
I AU GSUTS T2019
2020 www.wheretraveler.com 23Worldwide delivery
WHERE NOW | FOOD
Word
on the Street Food
By Emma Law
Pizza-by-the-slice joints have been popular in Rome for decades, their reasonably priced portions satisfying
hungry stomachs without the need for a long and leisurely sit-down meal. But in recent years, the street food
scene has exploded, welcoming newcomers who have raised the standard of food on offer and created modern
takes on local specialities. Here are some of our favorite portable snacks and where to find them.
n Pizza al Taglio crispy-on-the-outside, fluffy-on-the-inside
Unlike the personal pies flung out of ovens pizza pockets are stuffed with wholesome
at traditional pizzerias, pizza al taglio is served recipes like pollo alla cacciatora (chicken
by the slice, with portion size determined in a rosemary-scented sauce), lingua in
by each customer. Originally, toppings were salsa verde (beef tongue with herby gre-
kept simple (tomato and mozzarella or pota- en sauce), and coda alla vaccinara (oxtail
to with rosemary) but modern pizza makers stew). Thanks to its tremendous success,
such as Gabriele Bonci (of Pizzarium and Trapizzino now has several locations
Mercato Centrale) have championed pre- across town including at Piazza Trilussa in
mium ingredients and creative flavor com- Trastevere and in Mercato Centrale in Ter-
binations to elevate this typically inexpensive mini Station.
snack into a gourmet offering. Casa Manco n Filetto di Baccalà
in Testaccio Market also does excellent con- Cod might not be native to the Mediterra-
temporary pizza while Forno Campo de’ nean but in its dried, salted, and preserved
Fiori and Antico Forno Roscioli are form, it plays a key role in Roman cui-
the places to go for traditional sine. Its most famous incarnation,
pizza bianca (seasoned with oil, filetto di baccalà, was born in
salt) and pizza rossa (with red the Jewish Ghetto and is a
sauce). popular restaurant antipa-
n Supplì sto or a substantial snack to
A popular appetizer in enjoy on the go. The hole-
old-school pizzerias, the sup- in-the-wall eatery Dar Fi-
plì is also a stalwart of the Ro- lettaro near Campo de’ Fiori
man street food scene thanks has been serving this battered-
to its easy portability and, of course, and-fried fish to customers since
utter deliciousness. These deep-fried rice the ‘50s. Order to go and enjoy your catch
balls come in numerous flavors, the classic in the pretty piazza outside.
being a meat-based ragù sauce. I Supplì, n Porchetta
a casual takeaway spot in Trastevere, does Eaten throughout Italy but most closely as-
some of the best time-honored recipes in sociated with the town of Ariccia, just out-
town, while Supplizio, in the historic cen- side Rome, porchetta is commonly served
ter, proposes modern versions inspired by in a panino or between slices of white pizza
pasta dishes such as carbonara, cacio e pepe, bread. A slow roasting process keeps the
and arrabbiata. pork tender, helps produce crunchy, crispy
n Trapizzino crackling, and also ensures the aromatic
With the invention of Stefano Callegari’s seasonings—often garlic, rosemary, and
trapizzino in 2009, slow-cooked dishes fennel—permeate every bite. Enjoy this lip-
just like nonna used to make were firm- smacking specialty at Antica Norcineria al
ly added to the street food menu. His Civico 24 near the Pantheon.
– Pizzarium – Forno Campo de’ Fiori – Supplizio
Via della Meloria, 43. bonci.it Piazza Campo de’ Fiori, 22. Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 143.
– Mercato Centrale fornocampodefiori.com supplizioroma.it
Via Giovanni Giolitti, 36. – Antico Forno Roscioli – Trapizzino Trilussa
mercatocentrale.com/rome Via dei Chiavari, 34. Piazza Trilussa, 46.
– Casa Manco anticofornoroscioli.it trapizzino.it
Box 22, Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio, – I Supplì – Antica Norcineria al Civico 24
Via Aldo Manunzio, 66b. casamanco.it Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 137. Via della Scrofa, 24.
26 W H E R E R O M E I AU G U S T 2020WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
Going Coastal
TORRE©YELLOW.CAT / FLICKR©NIKO SI
A medieval castle, top-notch restaurants,
and a picturesque seascape make a visit to
Santa Severa not your average day at the
beach, says Alexandra Bruzzese.
Vases, sCUlptURes, neCklaCes, BRaCelets, peaRls, all COmpletelY hand-made
T
he Amalfi Coast isn’t the only place in Italy’s South to spend a day seaside.
Found a short train ride away from Rome, Santa Severa beach is the destina-
tion for locals (and in-the-know tourists) craving a city escape. Like much of
the bel paese, Santa Severa possesses a rather rich history for a beach resort: it was
first settled by the Etruscans and was home to the elusive community’s Pyrgi port,
Ceiling lights, lamps and Venetian masks
once the most important trading center of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Eventually, the terri-
tory passed into the hands of the ancient Romans (ruins from the era are still visible
today), and centuries later transformed into a bustling medieval town complete
with a castle. From the 1400s to 1500s, this castello belonged to various noble fami-
lies and served as the residence to popes including Gregory XIII and Sixtus V; it still
looms over the shoreline today. Nowadays, Santa Severa and its surrounding beach
are replete with hotels, restaurants, and spas. So why (besides the Castle of course)
is Santa Severa a favorite coastal hangout? Firstly, it’s hands down the easiest beach
to reach with public transport, no car required. Catch a train toward Civitavecchia
from Termini, Ostiense, or Trastevere station and get off at Santa Severa. From there,
the shore is a quick 10-minute walk. Visitors can choose between stabilimenti, or
private beaches with changing facilities, refreshments, umbrellas, and lounge chairs
for an entrance fee of anywhere from 10-18 euro, or the spiaggia libera, a beach free
of charge. If hunger strikes midday, head to restaurant Isola del Pescatore (Via Car-
tagine, 1), renowned for its excellent fish and seafood dishes. The view overlooking
the coastline isn’t too shabby either.
For those more interested in the region’s intriguing past, a visit to the Castle is
essential: it currently hosts five separate museums including the Maritime and
Ancient Navigation Museum, which displays remains of Roman and Etruscan ships
discovered not far from the coast. A cocktail bar, artisan-run shops, and more are
on-site, and free, evening tours of the Castle run every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday
of the month.
28 W H E R E R O M E I AU G U S T 2020SHOPPING
ACCESSORIES Guidelines
Fu(r)ture (Testaccio) This directory is a compendium of establish- UnionPay is an international bankcard association
Rome’s only boutique specializing in sustainable ments recommended by the editors of WHERE based in China and serves the world’s largest card-
goods and cruelty-free apparel. Sells a range of magazine and includes regular advertisers. holder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued
hand-stitched shoes, accessories, outerwear, and MAP LOCATIONS worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor
Note that the references at the end of each payment method of the outbound Chinese. By
other clothing for both men and women. Brands listing (Map A1; Map B5; etc.) refer to the coordi- December 2018, more than 650,000 merchants in
include Noah Vegan, Quagga, and Fera Libens, all nates on the street map on pages 62–63.
58/59 Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among
of which are eco-friendly and certified animal-free. STORE HOURS, ETC. which 30,000 merchants are located in Rome. This
Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm. Via Giovanni In general, stores in the historic center are open allows hundreds of thousands of affluent Chinese
Monday through Saturday from 9:30/10am to customers to shop with their favourite cards.
Battista Bodoni, 4. Tel 3339517931. Map D6 8pm, and Sunday afternoon, with a lot of flex- UnionPay also actively work with famous retail
ibility. Less central neighborhoods take a lunch groups, such as Rinascente department stores, Mc
Gaja Banchelli (Campo Marzio) break, roughly from 1–4pm. It’s a good idea to Arthur Glen Designer Outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi
Handmade artisanal bags and purses crafted call ahead before any visit. Most establishments fashion boutiques, to provide special discounts or
in python and other precious materials, each welcome major credit cards. services for UnionPay cardholders.
embellished with jeweled buckle that can be See listings for details.
interchanged or worn on a belt. Innovative styles that PRICE ABBREVIATIONS:
UnionPay Service Hotline: Average price per person for dinner excluding
nevertheless respect the time-honored traditions of 0080080095516 beverages: €: under €25 • €€: €25–40 • €€€:
Italian craftsmanship. Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm. e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com €40–80 • €€€€: €80 & up
Vicolo della Torretta, 6. Tel 0668308679. All credit
cards accepted. Map D3 gajabanchelli.com
KLK (Pantheon) Rovere, 112/113/114. Tel 0668307889. Map B/C3 center, specializes in top quality and ultra-light
Silk, linen, and cotton scarves in bold colors and hairbeautyrome.com; bioeprofumeriaonline.it. customizable wigs and hair extensions. Wella-
styles, silver jewelry at affordable prices, and Also: Via Teatro Valle, 50. Tel 066892893. Map D3 certified professional hairstylists offer the latest
stylish leather bags in a welcoming shop. All hairbeautyvalle.com styling and coloring techniques. Open Tue–Sat,
products made in Italy. Open daily, 10am–8pm. 9am–7pm. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 131.
Via della Minerva, 6. Tel 066991721. Piazza Max & Jo’ (Spagna) Tel 0668801682. Also: Via Nazionale, 249. Tel
Sant’Andrea della Valle, 4. Tel 0668802918. All This old-fashioned barbershop offers classic Italian 064882885. Major credit cards accepted. Map D3
credit cards accepted except Diner’s. Map D3 men’s cuts, trendy cuts, North American cuts, trottawigs.com
shampoo, shave with application of a warm cloth
LesLey (Veneto)
before and after, pre-shave treatments with various
Designer bags and accessories from recent
collections (worn in fashion shows and TV
types of essential oils, beard styling, and children’s BEAUTY – SPAS,
programs) at excellent prices. Chanel, Dior, Fendi, cuts. Shop also houses museum dedicated to
300 years of barbershop history. Open Tue–Sat,
WELLNESS, MASSAGE
Balenciaga, Lanvin, YSL, Valentino, Versace,
9am–7pm. Via Mario de’ Fiori, 114. Tel 066786126. Argiletum Spa (Monti)
Stella McCartney, Jimmy Choo, and more.
Map E2/3 Via dei Cartari, 10. Tel 0668136095. Luxurious wellness center that offers massage
Open Mon–Fri, 10:30am–7pm. Via Lombardia,
Map C3 All credit cards accepted except AmEx. packages, facials, and entrance to its spa, which
38c. Tel 0642020265. Map F2 Open Mon–Sat,
maxjobarbershop.it includes a hydromassage, sauna, and Turkish bath.
10am–7:30pm. Via Vittoria, 27 (Spanish Steps).
Massage options range from sports, anti-cellulite,
Tel 066793646. Map D/E2 Milan store: Via San
Trotta Hair Salon (Navona) or Shiatsu to foot reflexology. Offers free herbal
Fragrance is an Art
Nicolao, 3a (corner Corso Magenta). Metro:
Since the 1960s, this top hair salon and tea with every massage and aperitivo for an extra
Cadorna. Tel 0236527599. Credit cards accepted.
chignon bar, with two locations in the city cost. For a meal before or after treatment, visit
lesleyshop.it
Pas Vu’ (Navona)
Intimate atelier and boutique selling leather A Passage
Made for Eachto India
Other
bags, accessories, and handmade jewelry. The InYour
2011, Rosita Paola
mission, began
should youtraveling
choose throughout
to accept it: find the perfect bra to ensure you
Discover the exclusive fragrances of The Merchant of Venice, a prestigious brand of perfumes creations feature contemporary design and
India
are made with only the finest Italian leather. lookwhere she came
your best into contact
and enhance your with weavers,
physical well-being. At lingerie boutique Pati Jò,
with collections for both men and women. Collection includes shoppers, totes, hobos, and this challenging
artisans, quest
and designers, is finallyfashion
attended attainable. In their comfortable and intimate bra
week in
purses in tumbled, metallized, crinkled leather. fitting room,
Mumbai, a highly-trained
and gained bra fitter will
first-hand knowledge take your measurements and work with
in the
Open Tue–Sun, 11am–7:30pm. Via del Pellegrino, you to find the perfect bra for your unique body. In addition, she’ll teach you the
Luxury perfumery The Merchant of Venice first opened its in which customers can combine fragrances to concoct a scent art of loom weaving. In the course of these travels,
132. Tel 0668802840. Credit cards accepted. correct way to wear the bra, explaining the mistakes that are commonly made when
doors in the city of the same name in 2013. Famous for its that is truly their own. Their newest creation is the seductive Map C3/4 pasvuhandbags.com IG: pasvu_bags she was moved
choosing and by the beauty
wearing and gracegarment,
this essential of the as well as the negative health conse-
centuries-old perfume-making techniques, Venice was the scent Imperial Emerald (pictured), inspired by the regal and Revolution Vintage (Pantheon) women
quences weavers
those she met, and
mistakes canwas
lead inspired to bring
to. Complimentary bra fittings must be booked
natural spot to launch a major new fragrance brand. But dazzling peacock, a creature that has featured in myths and A cozy boutique in the historic center selling in advance
their exquisiteinfabrics
ordertotoItaly to create a new and
lucky for us, last year they opened a new location in the legends in both Eastern and Western traditions for millennia. An luxury secondhand handbags and accessories at guarantee the time and
affordable prices. The boutique carries a wide sustainable fashion brand. And thus Rosita Stoffe
center of Rome, adding to their growing list of boutiques olfactory masterpiece, the fragrance presents top notes such selection of products from the world’s most
attention necessary to
was born. The each
understand sophisticaed
cli- and elegant collections
in Italy’s most important cities, from Florence to Milan. as bergamot, mandarin, pink pepper, and iris, with a rich heart prestigious brands, including Chanel, Hermès,
Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Fendi, Givenchy, Dolce & include handmade
ent’s unique needsfabrics,
and textiles, and saris made by
Despite being around for less than a decade, The Merchant of ylang ylang, rose, lily of the valley, night-blooming jasmine,
Gabbana, Stella McCartney, Prada, Miu Miu, and personalize
women in thethe
most service
decentralized villages of India,
of Venice is already widely regarded for the exceptional quality tuberose, and orange flower, and sensuous undertones of more. New and rare arrivals are added every day. accordingly. In addi-to the inhabitants of rural areas
Open daily, 10:30am–1:30pm and 4:30–7:30pm. offering employment
of their products, which include a wide range of luxury eaux de amber, vanilla, benzoin, white musk, and patchouli. tion to bras, Pati Jò also
Via della Scrofa, 69. Tel 06164162880. Map D3 that allows them to study and support their families.
parfum, eaux de toilette, body care items, and fragrances for the With this rich history and the dedication of their skilled offers a vast selection of
home. They are also noted for their care for the customer and artisans, The Merchant of Venice has created a luxury fragrance Fabrics
panties,include embroidered
swimsuits, and linens, silk and wool
attention to detail, particularly in regards to the packaging of brand with all of the hallmarks of the Venetian perfumery
BEAUTY – SALONS shaping
blends, silkgarments, as hand printed pashminas,
saris and stoles,
H&B (Prati & Vatican) wellmuch
and as bridal,
more.maternity,
Open by appointment only.
their fragrances. Each perfume is presented in an artfully-made tradition at heart.
Hair, nail, face, and body services using Aveda and post-surgery lines.
flacon bearing a shape and color inspired by the Murano glass- > Via Bocca di Leone, 93. Tel 066780834. products in a modern salon. Ayurvedic massage,
> Via Vespignani, 3. Buzzer no. 6.
> Via Paganica, 9b. Tel
making tradition. They also offer a personalized layering service, themerchantofvenice.com hair analysis, and holistic facials. Aveda products Tel 3475190764.
0683774148. www.rositastoffe.com
patijo.it
on sale. Open Mon–Sat, 9am–7pm. Piazza della
30 W H E R E R O M E I AU G U S T 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 25
www.wheretraveler.com 31You can also read
