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城市漫步珠三角
英文版 11 月份
国内统一刊号:
CN 11-5234/GO
China Intercontinental Press
Advertising Hotline
400 820 8428
The Instagram Account Redefining Photojournalism
November 2015
《城市漫步》珠江三角洲 英文月刊
主管单位 : 中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 General Manager Henry Zeng
Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China Operations Manager Rachel Tong
主办单位 : 五洲传播出版社 Accountant Annie Qi
地址 : 北京西城月坛北街 26 号恒华国际商务中心南楼 11 层文化交流中心 Production Supervisor Jack Lin Senior Designer Tawaka Jiang, Designer Claire Zheng
11th Floor South Building, HengHua linternational Business Center, 26 Yuetan North Street, Xicheng District, Beijing Sales Managers Celia Yu, Justin Lu
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社长 President of China Intercontinental Press: 李红杰 Li Hongjie Account Executives Christina Zhuang, Cynthia Peng, Wesley Zhang, Nicole Tang
期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department: 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui Sales Assistant Sunnie Lü
编辑 : 刘扬 发行 / 市场 : 黄静 李若琳 广告 : 林煜宸 Business Development Manager Morri Qin
Event Manager Valentina Latorraca
Editor in Chief Tom Lee Senior Marketing Executive Rainbow Wu
Guangzhou Editor Jocelyn Richards Marketing Executives Alice Wang, Nikki Li, Sally Xu
Shenzhen Editor Christine Gilbert Distribution Luo Zhi, He Wei Wen
National Lifestyle Editor Marianna Cerini
National Arts Editor Andrew Chin CEO Leo Zhou
Web Editor Matthew Bossons National Editorial Director Ned Kelly
Editorial Assistants Ziyi Yuan, Tristin Zhang Digital Products Manager Vickie Guo
Contributors Peter Fenton, Lena Gidwani, Jon Hanlon, Oscar Holland, Don Seno, Rose Digital Bridget O'Donnell, Amul Qiu
Symotiuk, Dominique Wong, Kara Wutzke HR/Admin Director Penny Li
Financial Manager Laura Lu
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w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | G Z | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | 3
The wrap
42 COVER STORY 50 Community
Eyes on China
The Instagram Account Redefining Photojournalism.
Gives celebrates 20th
anniversary p50
Three to See
art
exhibitions
p35
QUOTE of the issue
"We all feel that heart transplants are a normal part
of modern life, but how will we feel about the first
head transplant?”
Paul Stebbings, founder of TNT Theatre, waxes lyrical over his production of
Frankenstein , p38
70 EVENTS
HK P60
Wine of
the Month
November 6-21 November 7-13 November 24
GT Italian Film Festival Guangdong Dance Festival Elton John
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8 CITY
12 A Chinese Bestiary
Fantastic Creatures and
Where to Find Them.
18 Street Barber
This Month's Man on the
Street is Serving 14 to Life.
22 LIFE &
STYLE
24 The fash pack
Chinese designers to watch.
30 Rediscovering
Shangri-La
Hiking the Meili Snow
Mountains.
34 ARTS
36 Storm Brewing
The Top Acts Electrifying
Festival's Debut.
40 Small-town Boys,
Big-time History
The 12 Sons of Fragrant
Mountain Who Changed China.
60 EAT &
DRINK
62 Mr. Thai
Master of Spice.
65 Tristan's Texmex
Restaurant and Bar
Bang for Your Buck.
w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | G Z | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | 5
Editor's Note November
Any user of WeChat or Facebook will tell you that it often seems like a repeating reel.
WIN WIN WIN
People post variations on the same theme again and again, almost as though they are
trying to reaffirm their normalcy by locating their photos squarely in the realm of the
average. This is particularly true for snapshots of China life, with the same (admittedly
sometimes striking) images occurring repeatedly, reinforcing a narrow view of the
country and its peculiarities.
For those of us who have lived a while in Zhongguo, it’s become automatic to
distinguish between what is truly unusual and what is merely the same old dross with a
new filter slapped on top. But for people abroad or those who are new arrivals, it’s easy to
develop tunnel vision, seeing only a fraction of the cultural uniqueness that is on display In Guangzhou, a bottle
daily.
This month’s cover story is dedicated to widening perspectives through the inspiring of Erath Orgeon Pinot
photography of Eyes on China. An Instagram account started by photojournalists, its Noir (p61), a pair of tick-
aim is to go beyond kitschy communist memorabilia and orientalist cliche to delve into
the rich diversity of human experience. Whether the subject is living in an urban village ets to Vocal Ecstasy by
engulfed by skyscrapers at the center of Guangzhou or gathering cordyceps in the far- Perpetuum Jazzile (p70),
flung province of Qinghai, the pictures of Eyes on China simply but poignantly capture the
a pair of tickets to Jean
enormous spectrum of peoples and lives that make up the world’s most populous nation
(p42). Muller (p70), a pair of tick-
Lest we be guilty of focusing solely on the citizens of China, we’ve also got a gorgeous ets to Duo Gazzana (p71)
travel story on one of the country’s most legendary locales: Shangri-La. Turn to p30 for
towering snow-capped summits, tiny villages cozily ensconced in wide valleys and Tibetan and a pair of tickets to
Buddhism ritual. What is Sex? (p75).
While the scenery may strike you as nearly unreal, it’s not quite as fantastical as this
month’s city feature, which looks at five (possibly real) beasts that are said to inhabit the
In Shenzhen, four vouch-
Middle Kingdom's mountains and oceans, including sea monsters, flying serpents and
China’s answer to bigfoot (p12). ers valued at RMB50 for
There are all kinds of fun events taking place in the PRD this month, from an electronic Pizza Alla Torre (p82) and
music festival featuring DJs Afrojack and Kaskade (p36) to a gothic comedy play based on
Frankenstein (p38). three vouchers valued at
For foodies, however, there’s just one essential November soiree: the That’s PRD Food RMB100 for Pizza Express
and Drinks Awards, taking place on November 12 at the Futian Shangri-La in Shenzhen
and November 17 at the Sofitel Guangzhou Sunrich. (Incidentally, the latter is also hosting (p82).
their Star Chefs extravaganza in December, gifting gourmands a second opportunity to
decadently indulge their senses.) For details of how to win,
See you there! visit our WeChat feed:
Thats_PRD
Tom Lee
Editor in Chief
Seeking Hourly updates on news, current affairs
Shenzhen and general weirdness from around
PRD and China.
Editor! FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA
facebook.com/thatsonline
That’s PRD is looking for a Shenzhen Editor! We’re searching for someone who is tapped
into the pulse of Shenzhen, with a love of food and an interest in a wide range of art me- twitter.com/thatsonline
dia. The ideal candidate should have a passion for digging up interesting stories about
Chinese society and culture, as well as the confidence to interview a diverse spectrum of youtube.com/thatsonline
people. Please apply if you have excellent writing and editing skills, as well as at least two
years of experience in a relevant field. Mandarin and/or Cantonese a definite plus. Please gplus.to/thatsonline
send your CV, cover letter and three writing samples to tomlee@urbanatomy.com
online.thatsmags.com
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w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | G Z | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | 7
TALES OF THE CITY
s :
l
a en t
r i
u n m
- B o
c o i r ve n
E nvra er
E G c
a on
C by
Do
min
ique
Wo
ng
T
he drive to make the city more en-
vironmentally friendly takes many
forms. But recent news suggests
that the authorities have been thinking
outside the box – or casket, rather.
Last month, the government an-
nounced plans to ensure that at least
half of its deceased citizens have ‘eco-
friendly’ funerals by 2020 in an effort to
save space and reduce the environmental
impact of scattered ashes.
To help spread the message, first-tier
cities' districts with cemeteries were
asked to build a ‘green cemetery’ for
show and instructed to turn traditional But despite the alleged environmental As such, the government’s goal to in-
resting places into eco-conscious ones. In benefits, the eco-funeral faces resistance. This crease eco-friendly burials is undoubtedly
the capital alone, more than 30 currently is due, in part, to ingrained cultural habits a little green around the edges and still in
offer environmentally friendly funerals. that see taking care of the dearly departed’s its early stages. But there are positive signs.
So what exactly does that mean? remains as a sign of love and respect. Since opening the environmental packages
Examples of ‘green burials’ include inter- In the past, traditional graves (involving in August, authorities at Beijing's Babaoshan
ring a deceased loved one’s ashes under a a plot of earth and a headstone) were the Revolutionary Cemetery say they have re-
tree or in a flowerbed, or spreading them preferred method, as many in China believe ceived nearly 100 applications so far. But
in the sea. Another suggested method is this brings peace to the deceased. There is of bearing in mind that nine million people die
to use dissolvable urns, which have been course an entire festival (Qingming) dedicat- across China every year, there’s some way to
offered in Tianjin since 2012. ed to the sweeping of ancestors' tombs. go before there’s a green life after death.
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CITY
The buzz
Chinese Chat RANDOM NUMBER DON’T YOU KNOW WHO I AM?
Sayings about Travel Tu Youyou
Destinations
Finally autumn has arrived, the
best season for travel. China is a
beautiful country full of historical,
scenic places, so this month, we
will illustrate Chinese sayings
about famous destinations.
不到长城非好汉 bú dào
chánɡchénɡ fēi hǎohàn: ‘He who
has never been to the Great Wall
is not a true man.’ Excerpted from
one of Mao Zedong’s poems, this After living quietly in near
saying has impelled many Chinese obscurity for decades, 84-year-
$15
people to climb the man-made old Tu Youyou was last month
wonder to prove themselves. awarded the Nobel Prize in
Today it serves as a motivator for medicine for discovering
runners to compete in the Great artemisinin, an anti-malarial
Wall Marathon. compound that is estimated to
桂林山水甲天下 guìlín have saved millions of lives.
shānshuǐ jiǎ tiānxià: ‘East or China’s first-ever Nobel
west, Guilin scenery is best.’ Guilin laureate in a scientific
is considered one of China’s most discipline, Tu has been dubbed
picturesque regions, famous for “the three withouts scientist”
its unique karst mountains and The price of the cheapest cocktail in New York’s first “baijiu bar,” – she lacks a post-graduate
the charming Li River. Lumos NYC, in bohemian mecca Greenwich Village. The sixth-month- degree, overseas research
上有天堂, 下有苏杭 shànɡ old drinking establishment also serves house-infused baijius flavored experience and membership in
yǒu tiāntánɡ, xià yǒu sū hánɡ: with prune, fig or Sichuan pepper at USD12 a shot or a 9-ounce bottle the Chinese Academy of Medical
‘Up in heaven there is paradise, for USD90. Eye-watering stuff. China’s fiery grain liquor and banquet Sciences.
down below, Suzhou and hangover harbinger is the Big Apple’s new ‘it’ spirit, reports the Wall Born in Ningbo in 1930, Tu
Hangzhou.’ Both close to Shanghai, Street Journal, cropping up in craft cocktails around town. Industry studied pharmacology in Beijing
the cities of Suzhou and Hangzhou insiders say the government crackdown on corruption has pushed in the 1950s and, under orders
are well known for the natural baijiu producers to search for new markets. We say it’s because the from Chairman Mao, conducted
vistas that harmonize with many Chinese invented hipsterism. her groundbreaking research
famous historical and cultural during the height of the Cultural
sites. West Lake in Hangzhou and QUOTE OF THE MONTH Revolution as part of a secret
the Suzhou Gardens are highly military unit tasked with finding
recommended for visitors.
Have you been to all the
“Homo sapiens is a tropical spe- a cure for malaria.
While reviewing a number
places mentioned? If the answer
is no, why not find out yourself
cies, so it was easier for them to of texts, Tu and her team
found a promising text titled
if they really live up to their
reputation? It’s time to hit the
move east than north.” ‘Emergency Prescriptions
Kept Up One’s Sleeve,’ which
road. contained a treatment for fever
using Artemisia annua, or sweet
> berlitz, a 137-year-old language training
wormwood. After initial trials
legend, provides customized mandarin classes
on mice failed, Tu devised a
for business and everyday communication.
lower temperature extraction
to learn more, please visit their Guangzhou technique for the wormwood,
center: a2G shengya business center, 107 tiyu which proved 100 percent
xi lu, tianhe district 贝立兹广州中心, 天河体 effective on mice, monkeys and,
育西路107号盛雅商务中心a2G (020-3887 9261, later, humans.
3887 9262, www.berlitz.com.cn) Tu published her findings
The history of human migration is being rewritten after a trove of an- anonymously in 1977, after
cient teeth was unearthed in Hunan. The discovery indicates that the the Cultural Revolution had
first humans to leave Africa settled in China some 80,000 to 120,000 subsided. Although Tu’s
years ago – challenging the widespread assumption that homo sa- discovery came from ancient
piens arrived in Europe about 60,000 years ago before migrating to Chinese pharmacopeia, the
Asia. Archeologist Maria Martinon-Torres gives two possible explana- Nobel committee said it was
tions for the route: firstly, competition from Neanderthals may have honoring Tu for using modern
prevented our ancestors from settling in Europe; secondly, these scientific procedures to create
proto expats were drawn to Asia by the warmer climate. the life-saving drug.
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ci t y | fe at ure
A Chinese Bestiary
Fantastic Creatures and
Where to Find Them
by Matthew Bossons, artwork by Macus Ma and Tawaka Jiang
A lmost every region of the world has a cryptid that haunts the backwoods of
civilization. North America has the hairy and elusive Sasquatch, the United
Kingdom has the Loch Ness monster (Nessie) and Latin America has the
chupacabra. For those unfamiliar with the term, a cryptid is an animal, plant or being
whose presumptive existence is regularly derided for using anecdotal evidence deemed
insufficient by the mainstream scientific community. This evidence often comes in the form
of questionable footprints, tufts of hair and/or grainy black-and-white photographs. Most
foreigners living in China will be familiar with at
least one of the above-mentioned cryptids, but are
probably in the dark when it comes to China’s
assortment of mysterious organisms. To
help bring you up to speed on the Middle
Kingdom’s answers to mermaids and
yetis, we have assembled a list of five of
our favorites.
1 2 n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | G Z | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o mSky serpents
One of the more mysterious entries on our
list, sky serpents are long, snake-like crea-
tures that appear to drift or slither through
the air. Although different than dragons
(most notably for their lack of wings), some
sky serpents have been rumored to unleash
fire and, in some cases, lightning.
These floating oddities are not just lim-
ited to China and have also been spotted in
other regions of the world (because, you know,
they can fly), including North America.
Xing-xing
The xing-xing is said to resemble an orangutan and, much
like the yeren (see p16), it is often compared to Sasquatch.
Online cryptid forums have a wide array of suggested sizes
for the xing-xing, with some claiming it is a small primate
and others suggesting it can grow to a height of 10 feet.
The xing-xing supposedly lives in the Himalayan
Mountains, meaning it shares territory with another famous
cryptid: the yeti.
It should be noted that the xing-xing of the Himalayas
also shares its name with a Japanese mythological sea crea-
ture known for its love of alcohol.
w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | G Z | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | 1 3ci t y | fe at ure
Jinmenju
No good cryptid roundup is complete without a mysterious plant, and the Jinmenju is exactly that. Alleged to grow in southern China, this
human-tree hybrid is said to bud smiling human heads for fruit. The seeds of these fruit are also supposed to resemble grinning faces. By some
accounts, when the face fruit ripens, it is edible and has a sweet-and-sour taste.
In earlier times, it is said the trees were plentiful and, in some instances, farmed. Thus, the landscape was abuzz with the laughter of a
thousand happy heads.
1 4 n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | G Z | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o mGuai wu
First sighted in 1903, this alleged lake
beast (or possibly beasts) is China’s an-
swer to Scotland’s Loch Ness monster.
The guai wu are said to live in Tianchi
Lake, in China’s northern province of
Jilin.
Descriptions vary greatly, but most
witnesses describe seeing a large aquatic
animal with a head that resembles a seal.
In 2007, a Chinese TV reporter claimed
to have witnessed six of the species play-
ing on the lake surface; he described them
as having fins or wings that were “longer
than their bodies.” It is unclear if this
video ever surfaced.
w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | G Z | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | 1 5ci t y | fe at ure
Yeren
Sometimes referred to as the yiren, Chinese
wildman or man-monkey, the yeren is a
hominid-like creature alleged to be living in the
mountainous and heavily forested regions of
Hubei province.
Similar to the North American bigfoot, it
is generally described as being notably larger
than a human and sporting a thick coat of
grey or red (or both) fur.
The first ‘scientific’ sighting, according to
numerous cryptid forums, was made in 1940
by Wang Zelin, a biologist educated in Chicago.
Wang was part of a group that stumbled across
a recently shot female yeren while traveling
between Jiangluo City and Niangniang Plain,
and he described it as looking very similar to
the plaster model of a female Chinese Homo
erectus (Peking man).
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cit y | man on the street
Street Barber
Serving 14 to Life
by Ziyi Yuan
E
very weekday at 4pm, students rush must stand for most of the day, there are few around RMB30-40 in a 24-hour period.
out of the International School of options available for men his age in China. This can put strain on his family,
Nanshan Shenzhen. They bike past a “They probably will not hire a man over whom he lives with nearby, not far from
quiet road on their way home to parents and 60 as a cleaner or waiter,” he says. “I have no the Taoyuan metro station. Their rent is
homework, most not noticing the street or choice except this.” RMB3,000 a month, a doable yet difficult
its tree with a small sign nailed to the trunk. Yet Zhang is seasoned in the position, amount for them to muster up each time.
Written in Chinese characters, the sign reads: beginning his barber career at age 14. He’s Zhang’s wife stays at home to take care of
“haircut RMB7, haircut and face shave RMB9, created a simple routine for himself over the their grandchild, and his son and daughter-
face shave RMB3.” Zhang Disheng, the street years, rising every morning at 6am and man- in-law work during the week.
barber, stands cutting his customers’ locks ning his post from 7am to 6pm. He has no At the day’s end, Zhang sweeps up his
nearby. weekends or holidays with the exception of post and packs up his equipment. As a final
Every day from 7am to 6pm, the 66-year- days with bad weather. thought before leaving, he says, “I will not
old Guangdong native from Meishan can be His station seems fairly professional, quit this job until the day I die.” He then shuf-
found clipping split ends underneath the considering it’s on the street. There are fles off home to his family, leaving Kangyuan
shade of the tree. Most men his age in China chairs, a bucket with newspapers and read- Lu until 7am the next morning.
are enjoying their retirement, but Zhang ing glasses for those waiting for a trim.
does not have that luxury. When asked about Zhang orders most of his tools from Taobao THE DIRTY DETAILS
his unconventional work, he says he does or buys them at the local supermarket.
Monthly salary: RMB600-3,000
this job to help his family overcome financial Though not high quality, he says they suffice
difficulties. “It may put my family in trouble in helping him accomplish his tasks. Days per week: 7
if I don't do this job,” he tells us while shear- His regular customers are nearby resi-
Hours per day: 10
ing a soldier’s hair. dents and soldiers stationed in the area. Also,
Zhang has worked on quiet Kangyuan foreigners visit his post sometimes. “Not eve-
Lu, in Nanshan District, for more than four ryone needs a haircut every day,” Zhang says, > man on the street is a monthly feature where we talk to
someone doing an everyday job, in order to get an insight into
years. Though its a tough job in which he confiding that sometimes he only makes the lives of normal chinese people.
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ci t y | pho t o e s s ay
Bicycle Race
Panning the City’s Cyclists
by Don Seno
W
hen I’m out on the streets of Guangzhou at night
before or after work, and there is time to spare to
shoot, I’m always on the lookout for a place with
good light, waiting like a predator stalking my prey: cyclists.
Panning is a technique in photography that involves following
a fast-moving subject accurately while using a relatively slow
shutter speed, resulting in a sharp subject while keeping the
background blurry, with streaks that convey movement and
speed. It’s a technique that many find too difficult to do but
is one that I was able to be proficient at quickly. It requires
steady hands, good body movement and lots of patience.
Bicycle riders are my favorite to shoot since everyone has
their own character and story. Some are in a rush to go home
after a day’s work, looking spent and tired. Some are just
about to go to work, running late. And some are just leisurely
riding about, looking relaxed.
2 0 n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | G Z | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o mphoto essay » CITY w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | G Z | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | 2 1
LIFE & style
style radar
tion; when someone has to be nourished and cal texts that date back to the fourth century
TCM
built up from the inside, I give them herbs. AD, but nonetheless she took a risk. It turned
To clarify, when I use the word ‘herb’ I out to be safe and effective. Just this month
Drink Chinese Herbs, mean any naturally occurring substance that she won the 2015 Nobel Prize in Physiology
Win the Nobel Prize has medicinal use. Most Chinese herbs are or Medicine for her work.
plant based, some are from animals and a few Tu Youyou was using Western medi-
are minerals – and there are thousands. cal methods to break a single herb down
In Chinese medicine, each herb is cat- to its chemical components, but in Chinese
egorized by temperature, flavor and which of medicine herbs are given as a formula that
the 12 energy pathways or organs it affects. combines multiple items with complementary
Temperature includes cold, cool, neutral, effects. This allows the doctor to treat com-
warm and hot, with gypsum being one of the plex problems while minimizing side effects.
coldest herbs and aconite being one of the Herbs are given in their raw form – think
hottest. The five flavors include sweet, bitter, twigs, roots and leaves. To prepare them, they
sour, salty and acrid. Each flavor has a distinct have to be soaked and then boiled in water for
therapeutic effect. Sweet herbs, for example, about 30 minutes, before straining out the re-
have a nourishing, harmonizing and moisten- maining liquid for drinking. This is done twice
Most months when I’m writing about Chinese ing effect while bitter herbs are drying, purga- to produce two doses a day.
medicine, I usually lean towards discussions tive and have a downward-moving nature. Not very convenient is it? Never fear! Your
about acupuncture. I feel I have been neglect- I often wonder about the pioneering herb- local pharmacy will do the boiling and strain-
ing herbal medicine, and this simply isn’t fair. alists who, over the past 2,000 years, experi- ing for you and then vacuum seal the herbal
It’s time to even the score. mented to discover the characteristics and liquid into single doses for you to take. You
Chinese herbal medicine is just as old effects of each plant. Even in modern times, just have to drink them. They don’t taste great
as acupuncture, and both use the same un- the experimentation continues. In the 1970s, but they work – so think of Tu Youyou and
derlying theories of health and illness. The Chinese scientist Tu Youyou put herself for- suck it up.
difference is that acupuncture is a regulating ward to be the first human test subject for an
treatment that gets your body to heal itself, extract of wormwood that she hoped could be > Jon hanlon is a chinese medical practitioner, raised in the
whereas herbs directly cause healing changes used to create a drug to treat malaria. us, trained in australia, now healing the sick in Guangzhou.
inside your body. I use acupuncture for pain Sure, she had tested it on animals first, you can contact him for a booking on 185 0202 5594 or jon@
and other problems that come from stagna- and sure, she got the idea from Chinese medi- guangzhouacupuncture.com
Fitness This body response to weight training has Pants size, strength, mindset, decreased
great health benefits. Women typically don’t stress, leaner lines, faster runs – the list goes
Strong is the New Skinny turn green or start smashing things when we on. Your muscles, bones and body will thank
strength train, and our muscles don’t become you. Embrace the new skinny!
Why women are the stronger species… I’m beefy in the same way as the Hulk’s either. But
kidding! Don’t stress, guys, I know you’re all those muscles definitely become stronger and > Kara wutzke is a fitness trainer who offers boot camps and
as buff as they come. But the trend sweeping more toned. Stronger muscles support our individual classes in Guangzhou, as well as running the K2fit
the world right now is strong women. You frames better, leading to decreased pressure challenge, a 10-week guided fitness competition for those
see it everywhere, right? “Strong is the new on our joints and making us less prone to in- that want to tone up or slim down. she can be contacted by
skinny,” with a picture of a woman lifting a jury in and out of the gym. They also increase emailing k2fit.gz@gmail.com or through wechat id: KaraK2fit.
weight over her head, muscles a-blazing and a bone density, so our bones will be less brittle
determined look on her face. Whether you’re as we age. And when your muscles are toned
paying attention or not, women are striving your metabolism kicks up, so you burn calo-
for body beauty that no longer focuses on the ries more quickly, helping your body become
kind of waif-like figures we used to be bom- a lean powerhouse.
barded with in every magazine. Check out the strongest women in fitness.
Personally, I’m extremely happy about Jillian Michaels, Ronda Rousey, Li Na and oth-
it. As a trainer and wellness coach, I focus on er fitness icons all do strength training. They
having all-around health and fitness, and I push their bodies to the next level of per-
know that strength has been overlooked for formance. If we’re not getting better, we are
too long when it comes to women. People still staying the same, and it’s not often I have met
fear that a female lifting a weight will result someone who wants to stay the same. Guy or
in her turning into the Hulk. Um, not so much. girl, you want to be stronger, right? You want
Strength training results in a good physique to run faster and not pull a hamstring when
inside and out, but women’s bodies are not you bust out a sprint! So get to it, get training:
like men’s bodies. Our hormones are differ- bodyweight exercise, free-weights, CrossFit,
ent. Men have very high levels of testosterone, boot camp or a gym, any gym.
which is the main building block needed Seek out your next program now, and
to grow big, bulky muscles through weight make sure it involves strength training. Set
lifting. The lack of this hormone in women some short-term goals for four, eight and 12
means our bodies respond in a different way. weeks. Every month, you should see change.
2 2 n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | G Z | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o mDaytripper
Journey of One Thousand Steps
In China, climbing a mountain often comes at spotting instead.
the exhausting price of steps, straight up, for After a level 10-minute walk, the path
miles on end. Whereas winding switchbacks splits into two: a scenic route with plank
distinguish trails in the West, the East has bridges and a narrow passageway of steps.
historically erected grand staircases – an ex- Knowing stairs will dominate the upper sec-
pression of the culture’s readiness to ascend tions of the trail, we turn gratefully onto the
steadily towards a higher status, both person- scenic course.
ally and in society. The painstaking pursuit is On a Sunday morning, the trail is packed
revered as an honorable symbol of growth. with couples, young and old, eager to recon-
Baishuizhai, a breathtaking waterfall located nect with the sounds of nature. Few are
two hours north of Guangzhou, hosts South dressed for the occasion – women trudge
China’s first mountain step path. Totaling along in heels and men sport flip-flops nearly
nearly 10,000 stairs, the trail is far from a 5 kilometers up. No one seems phased by the
leisurely walk, though visitors are free to stop fact that a jolly afternoon stroll turned out to
and turn back at any time. be a rigorous three-hour hike.
At 4,999 paces, the footpath fades into The waterfall, which is visible from
the shores of a tranquil mountain lake, where nearly every point on the trail, is divided into
most hikers call it a day. Those who press three main sections: an upper falls said to
onward towards the 9,999th step, it is said, resemble a dancing dragon, a middle cascade sunlight, one final set of stairs appears, scal-
will find everlasting love – a legend derived that hangs like a silk curtain and a lower one ing a grassy hill. It’s so theatrically steep we
from the auspicious digit ‘nine,’ which shares that glistens like white pearls scattered in can’t quite see what lies beyond, like a cliff-
its pronunciation with ‘久’ (jiu), meaning ‘a the woods. From each lookout platform on hanger on the last page of a novel. All we can
long time.’ the rickety boardwalk, the falls loom robustly do is trudge upward, rung by rung, towards
Eight-hundred meters below, the trek com- overhead, plunging down outside the railings higher ground. JR
mences on a road crammed with makeshift in a thundering mist. A veil of lime sprigs and
tourist stalls: visors, sunhats and fedoras are moss bathe in the endless spray. > open daily; 8.30am-5.30pm; rmb60/adults, rmb35/kids.
scattered atop tables clothed in red. Water bot- Each 100th step is engraved with the total by public transport: take bus to conghua bus station,
tles are sold at about twice their normal cost at distance traveled, ensuring hikers won’t lose then transfer to a tourist shuttle bus directly bound for
the foot of the mountain and rise in price with count during the climb. All throughout the de- baishuizhai waterfall scenic spot (bus comes every 30
altitude. manding course, crowds gather outside bever- minutes). alternatively, take a bus bound for paitan town at
Upon passing a lake dipped in shades of age stalls and restaurants serving hard-boiled fangcun passenger station directly to baishuizhai waterfall
winter green, visitors cross through the park tea eggs and instant noodles. Ice cream bars scenic spot between 7.30am and 7.30pm, one bus per hour.
gate towards a child’s paradise. A bubbling sell faster than Gatorade. baishuizhai scenic spot, paitan town, Zengcheng district,
stream churns around smooth boulders just The last kilometer concludes as the trail Guangzhou 广州市增城区派潭镇白水寨景区 (020-2331 8758,
large enough for a toddler to mount or his began – flat. As our leg muscles adjust to the www.bsz.cc, bit.ly/1ixqonn)
parents to sit down for a rest. Tree houses line new gradient, we snap photos of exotic veg- daytripper is a monthly column that aims to help people
the creek, their trunks smeared in abstract etation, eager to catch a glimpse of the fabled get the most out of their prd experience by proposing fun
murals. Most youngsters won’t venture be- lake. excursions that can be made in a single day to explore the
yond this point, settling into a day of crayfish Emerging from the forest into blinding local culture and nature of the region.
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w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | G Z | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | 2 7L i f e & St y l e | f a s h i o n
M
ake no mistake: knits are different
from jumpers. Jumpers are
what you keep stuffed in a big
drawer; knitwear is what you hang in
Knitting
your wardrobe. Jumpers are practical;
knitwear has a crisp-winter-walk, hot-
chocolate-and-mulled-wine lifestyle
thing going on. A mum-knitted cardi or
a soft, ribbed knit is basically a portable
hug. So this month, we’ve selected the
top knits to see you through the cold
months. From hot orange to homespun
and textured, let them shape your look
this autumn.
Zara Stradivarius Topshop
RMB299 RMB259 RMB475
www.zara.cn www.stradivarius.com www.topshop.com
H&M Zara COS
RMB399 RMB299 RMB890
www.hm.com www.zara.cn www.cosstores.com
2 8 n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | G Z | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o mRiviera Club COS Uniqlo
RMB525 RMB890 RMB199
it
shop.projectaegis.com www.cosstores.com www.uniqlo.cn
Essential
Knitwear
for Fall
By Marianna Cerini
Zara H&M COS
RMB359 RMB199 RMB690
www.zara.cn www.hm.com www.cosstores.com
w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | G Z | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | 2 9L i f e & St y l e | t r a v e l
Stones from the freezing streams are
piled up by pilgrims into stupas, making
the path feel like an enchanted forest
T he Prince of the Thirteen Peaks
Each dawn, the faithful and tourists
the ‘Prince of the Thirteen Peaks,’ Kawagebo,
“the most glorious peak my eyes were
ever privileged to see,” according to early
crawl the 150 kilometers to circumambulate
the mountain range.
The influx of tourism to the area is mak-
alike assemble at Feilai Temple to watch the American explorer Joseph Rock. At 6,740 ing a once isolated pilgrimage, only for the
sunrise illuminate the sacred Meili Snow meters, the lofty apex of the Meili Snow pious, accessible to more than just adventur-
Mountains. When the first sunrays light the Mountains is one of the few mountains in the ous trekkers. The 3,360-meter-high viewing
crests, pilgrims and hikers gasp in unison, world that has never been climbed. platform from Feilai Temple looks over a
inhaling the cool, thin air and breathtaking The pyramidal pinnacle is an angular steep precipice, down into the headwaters
views. ‘horn’ chiseled out by glaciation, reminiscent of the Mekong River, then rises to green, Ice
The 13 snow-capped summits are some of the smaller Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps. Age, glacier-carved valleys. Here, Yubeng
of the most spectacular in China and revered The panoramic views are so awe inspiring village (雨崩村) is nestled at the foothills of
in Tibetan Buddhism. Tallest among them is that the devout prostrate themselves to jagged, eternally snowy massifs.
3 0 n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | G Z | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o mby Peter Fenton
Hiking the Meili Snow Mountains Across the Mekong from Feilai Temple, the
excursion to Yubeng starts at Xidang Village –
and can be grueling. The altitude rises sharply
from Xidang Hot Springs (2,680 meters) to
the pass (3,680 meters), and the 12-kilometer
walk will test even the fittest city slicker’s lung
capacity. Dishearteningly, acclimatized Tibetan
seniors seem to bound up the steep col in the
UNESCO-listed Meili Snow Mountains reserve.
It takes over five hours to reach the top of
the pass on the well-blazed trail, even with your
packs transported by mule in advance, but the
exuberating view of Yubeng encompassed by the
U
Meili Snow Mountains is a relief from China’s
pper and Lower Yubeng Village sprawling mega cities.
In James Hilton’s 1933 novel Lost Horizon, The twin Tibetan hamlets of Upper and
the fictional land of Shangri-La is described as Lower Yubeng straddle either side of a ranging
a green mountain valley, cut off from the rest meltwater mountain stream. Fresh, ice-cold
of the world. Inside this fabled paradise is, so waters and caravans of mules ferrying supplies
the narrative goes, a lamasery where people to Yubeng make the village resemble a Tibetan
live in a tranquil state of happiness. version of Tolkien’s Shire.
The tantalizingly obscure location of the All food and accommodation in Yubeng are
fabled paradise has since been claimed by seasonally priced, and high transportation costs
many for its tourism value, and in 2001, the should be expected to and in the park. Plus, ad-
town formerly known as Zhongdian was re- ditional insurance and management surcharges
named Shangri-La, reputing to have inspired on top of ticket prices can add up (also, there’s
Hilton’s tale. limited amounts of hot water and intermittent
A short bus ride from this new Shangri- electricity supply). After the arduous climb over
La is the ‘Little Potala Palace,’ which has the the Nanzheng Pass, the best homestead accom-
attributes of the Tibetan monastery detailed modation for international travelers is the Yak
in the classic novel. Hilton partly drew from Butter Inn in Upper Yubeng.
Joseph Rock’s accounts of the Meili Snow The physical barriers posed by the raging
Mountains for his vision of a lost world with waters of Yunnan’s rivers and impregnable
breathtaking natural scenery. mountain ranges have given rise to distinctive
Arguably more inspiring than these ecology in each of the valleys. The reserve pro-
would-be relics of Shangri-La, however, is a tects the unique flora and fauna inhabiting seven
visit to Yubeng. There is no vehicular access distinct climate zones as they scale the sheer
to the village, other than the occasional lo- precipices of the earthly Shangri-La. As part of
cal’s motorbike, and most go on foot or by the Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Area, it is a
mule, adding to the rustic charm. It could hotspot for biodiversity. It’s hot and dry along
be a hiker’s utopian paradise, though more the gorge, with coniferous forests along the
likely than reaching nirvana is a mild case of pass; around Yubeng is highland prairies, humid
altitude sickness during the journey over the evergreen broad-leaf forests, tundra and alpine
Nanzheng Pass. regions.
w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | G Z | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | 3 1L i f e & St y l e | t r a v e l
S henpu: Sacred Waterfalls
The trail from Lower Yubeng leads to
the pilgrim path to Shenpu (3,650 meters).
There are flocks of smiling faithful that
vigorously climb a stiffer route, in order to
bathe in the Sacred Waterfalls (as they are
known in English), an amazing cultural site
of Tibetan Buddhist ritual.
Instead of walking up the valley from
Lower Yubeng, there is a seldom-visited,
steady 20-kilometer climb (for the strong-
est hikers or the most prepared) to the even
loftier Sacred Lake (4,350 meters). At a con-
siderably higher altitude, the less forgiving
M
terrain requires an overnight camp on the
alpine meadow to reach this holy grail.
ingyong: A Sacred Glacier
For a day trip from Feilai Temple,
B
stroll through another valley that leads to
inghu: Glacier Lake Mingyong Glacier. Access to the nearby vil-
The hike out of Upper Yubeng’s agri- lage of the same name is by a bumpy road,
cultural land is short, passing into pristine, and hiking is now easier with a golf cart ride
dewy montane woodland. En route, the halfway along.
stones from the freezing streams are piled Zigzagging down the steep side of Prince
up by pilgrims into stupas, making the Peak, Mingyong is the glacier with the low-
path feel like an enchanted forest. est elevation and altitude in China, though
The trail climbs the lip of a ‘hanging’ ravaged by climate change. According to
glacial valley before the tree line thins to a Nature.org article, in the late 1800s its
an alpine pasture towards Glacier Lake, tongue was near Mingyong village. However,
which sits at 3,920 meters. It’s a much it has since receded about 2.7 kilometers up
more pleasant hike than over the pass, the mountain.
with a mountaintop teahouse with yak The revered ice mass is about 4 kilome-
steak and milk as a welcome respite. The ters long and varies between 30 to 80 meters
grassland abruptly ends with rocky es- in width, descending to an elevation of 2,650
carpment and a harder climb up over a meters. A warning to would-be adventurers,
bluff. there is also a plaque dedicated to the 17
This ascent reveals a moonscape pool Chinese and Japanese climbers who lost their
of water, in a glacial-carved cirque, fed lives in an avalanche, in an ill-fated attempt
by meltwater from creaking ice masses, to scale the mountain in 1991. Fatalities such
which perilously hang above. One of the as these have ensured that, while parts of the
exquisite delights of reaching the scoured Meili Snow Mountains are now more acces-
boulders of Glacier Lake is the small flow- sible than ever, some will remain forever out
ers sprouting from between the stones. of reach and unprofaned.
3 2 n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | G Z | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o mA Note on Geography
• Yubeng is in Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in
northwest Yunnan, about a five-hour bus ride north of Shangri-
La. As such, overnight stay is generally required at either Feilai
Temple or Deqin County. The upgraded Yunnan-Tibet Highway
has made the final leg of the journey smoother, though the hair-
pin turns are no less scary.
• The Meili Snow Mountains are a geological buckle in the
earth’s surface, a fold formed when the seabed rose as the sub-
continent tectonic plate collided with the Asiatic plate.
• Part of the Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected Areas,
the Meili Snow Mountains are located along the Old Tea and
Horse Trail to Tibet. The Mekong (Lancang), Yangtze (Jinsha)
and Salween (Nujiang) cascade down from the Tibetan plateau
through northern Yunnan.
• A popular tourist trek is to follow part of the Old Tea and
Horse Trail from Dali via Lijiang to Shangri-La, or to go from north-
western Sichuan to Shangri-La. However, it is well worthwhile add-
ing the Meili Snow Mountains to the itinerary, especially consider-
ing the old town in Shangri-La tragically burnt down in 2014.
w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | G Z | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | 3 3ARTS
collage
Coming to a theater near you
What’s New
Maze Runner 2: The Scorch
Trials
Wuhan emo group Chinese Football have been bub-
bling under the surface for a while now with their
melodic math rock sound. They make their bold-
est statement yet on their self-titled debut album.
Over 13 tracks, they package their youthful angst in
shimmering guitar riffs, heartfelt vocals and indie-
pop songs that will lodge their way into your head.
NOV Available at chinesefootball.bandcamp.com.
4
The second installment in the teen dystopian
sci-fi action series has already grossed over
USD240 million, winning praise for its action
Ever since Maus, historical graphic novels have been a thriv-
scenes. The film follows a rag tag group of
ing genre. In Nanjing: The Burning City, Ethan Young delves
young people battling the powerful W.C.K.D.
into what has been described in the West as “World War
organization, while trying to survive a deso-
II’s forgotten tragedy.” Praised by critics, the story follows
late landscape full of danger.
two abandoned Chinese soldiers trapped after the Imperial
Japanese Army invades the city. Published by Dark Horse, it’s
The Peanuts Movie available on Amazon.
Like other Netflix originals House of Cards and
Orange is the New Black, Bloodline has been a
critical darling. The thriller-drama follows the
Rayburn family, who have run a Florida Keys
NOV beachside hotel for 45 years. However, the
6
return of the family’s black sheep threatens
Charlie Brown, Snoopy and friends star in
to destroy their entire legacy. Episodes are
their first feature film in 35 years. The 3-D
streaming at tv.sohu.com.
animated movie will commemorate the 65th
anniversary of the comic strip and the 50th
anniversary of the TV special A Charlie Brown
Christmas. Snoopy will take to the skies in his Hao bu Hao
greatest mission yet, as Charlie Brown em-
barks on his own epic quest.
Hao Bu Hao
Spectre
NOV
13 Apple’s extensive catalogue of music, mov- China’s biggest hope to bag their first Oscar
Daniel Craig returns as James Bond while ies and books is now available in China. To nomination for Best Foreign Language Film
Christoph Waltz stars as the villainous celebrate, they’re offering a three-month trial took a hit after last-minute changes to re-
Franz Oberhauser. Directed by Sam Mendes membership to Apple Music, which features quirements. Jean-Jacques Annaud’s Wolf
(Skyfall), the film explores the secret agent’s millions of songs in its catalogue, including Totem was deemed ineligible due to not
first encounter with the titular criminal agen- exclusives with the likes of Taylor Swift. Music having enough Chinese nationals on its crea-
cy. Entangled in a web of conspiracy, Bond licensing deals are more important than ever tive staff. The hit film can take solace in the
embarks on a global journey to protect the in- after a recent government order banning recent Golden Rooster Award it won for Best
nocent daughter of a powerful enemy. streaming of unlicensed music. Film.
3 4 n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | G Z | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o mMonologues in the Golden
Age – Pa-Hsi Lin Art
Exhibition
> until Nov 15, free admission. sales center at
peninsula one, 27 yuelong Jie, xingang dong lu,
pazhou xincheng, haizhou district, Guangzhou 广州
市海珠区琶洲新城新港东路玥珑街27号富力壹号半
岛营销中心
The Three Meter Radius Elephant Forest - Exhibition by
> until Nov 29, 10am-5.30pm, free admission. oct art &
Fumiko Toda
design Gallery, 9009-1 shennan lu, oct-loft, Nanshan > until Nov 11 (closed on mondays), 10am-10pm, free admission. Kui
district, shenzhen 深圳市南山区华侨城深南大道9009-1号 yuan Gallery, 9 xuguyuan lu, yuexiu district, Guangzhou 逵园艺术馆,
华·美术馆 (0755-3399 3111) 广州市越秀区恤孤院路9号 (020-8765 9746)
w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | G Z | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | 3 5arts | music
Storm
Brewing
The Top Acts
Electrifying Festival's
Debut
by Matthew Bossons
W
ith more than 30 renowned DJs Storm’s southern debut. Plus, the tropical It’s a sentiment echoed by Don Diablo,
and 50,000 electro-heads in at- China coastline is also unlikely to experience a popular Dutch DJ and producer who per-
tendance over two days, this year’s the kind of heavy rains that turned Shanghai’s formed at Budweiser Storm Shanghai. “I
Budweiser Storm Festival in Shanghai will be festival into a mud pit – though some might don’t really notice a big difference between
remembered as one of China's biggest par- say that’s a bad thing! European, American and Chinese crowds,” he
ties. Hopes are running high that November’s “The diverse crowd here really goes to noted after his gig.
Shenzhen edition will share similar success. show how popular electronic music has be- Round two of Budweiser Storm crashes
Shenzhen is admittedly less used to the come,” said Chris Wu, a university student into Shenzhen November 21-22. To give you
scale of event that Shanghai regularly hosts, from Shenzhen who was among the Shanghai an idea what you can expect (aside from food
but that doesn’t mean we’re expecting any attendees. “The difference in ages and styles vendors, beers and bros), we have assembled
fewer flashy, robot-like costumes or shirtless here shows that this kind of music is popular in an artist rundown, showcasing the four hot-
guys flaunting their abs and tribal tattoos at China now – just like in America and Europe.” test acts announced so far.
Afrojack Showtek
A Grammy-winning DJ This celebrated Dutch electro-house duo
and producer, Afrojack is began composing music in 2001 and
one of the world’s most is comprised of brothers Sjoerd (aka
celebrated EDM artists. At Duro) and Wouter Janssen (aka Walt).
only 27 years old, he has Although Showtek has well over a decade
been credited with helping of tracks and performances under their
propel electronic music into the mainstream through belt, the gruesome twosome didn’t make it big until 2012 with the release
collaborations with notable artists like Sting, Snoop of ‘Cannonball.’ On top of producing their own music, Showtek has been
Dogg and Jared Leto. credited with producing tracks for a number of notable international acts,
Nationality: Dutch including Tiesto and Chris Brown.
Accolades: 2011 Grammy Award for Best Remixed Nationality: Dutch
Recording; number six on Forbes 2014 list of the Accolades: Hard Dance Awards Best Album (2009), Hard Dance Awards
world’s highest paid DJs Best European Producer (2009), Hard Dance Awards Best European
Must hear track: ‘Last Night’ Hardstyle DJ (2008 and 2009)
Must hear track: ‘Cannonball’
Kaskade
A household name on the Fedde le Grand
EDM scene, Kaskade has A regular name on the international
received four Grammy festival circuit, this 38-year-old Dutch
nominations: Best Dance/ DJ is known for remixes of popular
Electronica Album (2013 artists, including (but certainly not
and 2014), Best Dance limited to) Coldplay, Michael Jackson,
Recording (2014) and Best Robbie Williams and Fatboy Slim.
Remixed Recording (2015). Most recently, he is hot off Fedde le Grand has also spent nearly
the heels of a successful two-weekend stint at the iconic a decade on DJMag’s prestigious top
Coachella Valley Music Festival in California. 100 list.
Nationality: American Nationality: Dutch
Accolades: American’s Best DJ 2011 and 2013 (also Accolades: MTV Award for Best Breakthrough (2007); MTV Australia
placed in the top five of the fan poll for 2009 and 2010) Award for Best Dance Video (2007)
Must hear track: ‘Lessons in Love’ Must hear track: ‘Put Your Hands Up 4 Detroit’
> for tickets visit shenzhen.a2storm.cn/tickets-shenzhen
3 6 n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 5 | G Z | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o mYou can also read
